Jackets in 21st century menswear

21st Century Menswear JacketsGeneral Trend

The Fall Winter 2013 collections saw a definite protagonist emerge: the coat. With luxurious tailoring as an undercurrent which united all collections, the traditional men’s coat could not be missing. But is it traditional?

The winter coat, an epitome of the art of tailoring, and lasting companion of the discerning man took over the runways during the FW13 fashion weeks. Historically revered as a tailoring masterpiece and a contemporary must have, the men’s coat appears in many forms this season. From Tom Ford’s luxurious fur trimmed coats, to Canali’s classic doublebreasted affair, even the more fashion forward designers like Chris Van Assche and Comme des Garçons have brought forward their own version of the coat. Dolce&Gabbana, modern tailoring masters and men’s fashion trend setters created a collection which rotates around one of the strongest items on the runway and in a man’s wardrobe: the coat.

FW’13 1 D&G

• For FW13, Dolce&Gabbana have introduced a new fit for their tailored coats: the Martini Dry. More figureskimming than the classic Martini, this fit translates well in double breasted coats. They maintain their signature proportions, but with the new cut, they’re less bulky. Pic: Double breasted and Sicily are peas in a pod accessorize with a classic corduroy flat cap.

For FW13, Dolce&Gabbana have introduced a new fit for their tailored coats: the Martini Dry. More figure-skimming than the classic Martini, this fit translates well in double breasted coats. They maintain their signature proportions, but with the new cut, they’re less bulky. Double-breasted and Sicily are peas in a pod- accessorize with a classic corduroy flat cap.

SUBJECT: HISTORY OF JACKETS 21ST CENTURY- CONTEMPORARY FASHION

PAGE 1 OF 6 TARVEEN KAUR & UPASNA NIDHI

• When looking back to the past, one fabric that cannot be ignored is the pin stripe. Back, and stronger than ever the pin

• stripe features heavily in the FW13 collections. This doublebreasted Martini Dry coat in wool mix pin stripe felt embodies the main elements of the season. Contrast the stripes and channel the oldy worldy gentleman by adding a silk polka dot pocket square.

2. Giorgio Armani

• Armani revolutionized men's suits, making bomber jackets out of leather in the 70's, which up until then was never seen before.

• He continued to offer unique fabrics in unheard of ways, and also designed men's jackets that had a clean look that included a looser feel and fit. Before this, men's suits tended to be tight and restrictive, so Armani's suits were refreshing and well received. With the success of his men's jackets, Giorgio went on to make a tailored jacket for women as well.

• In the past year, Armani suit sales have escalated. So much so, that they have reorganized the selling floor to make room for more suiting. This season, Armani’s suits speak to that with soft, fluid shoulders and a “not too serious look”.

• This design is loose and deconstructed but it’s a slim, neat silhouette nonetheless, sitting on the shoulders and maintaining Armani’s always tailored fit. While the three-button suit is still the biggest seller, there is a new focus on one and two-buttons suits with narrow lapels. Offering an open, inviting look, this is a contrast to the high, buttoned-up suits of seasons past. What had been considered a traditional look is now equated with an ease of movement.

When looking back to the past, one fabric that cannot be ignored is the pin stripe. Back, and stronger than ever the pin stripe features heavily in the FW13 collections. This double-breasted Martini Dry coat in wool mix pin stripe felt embodies the main elements of the season. Contrast the stripes and channel the oldy worldy gentleman by adding a silk polka dot pocket square.

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• Armani Collezioni - Tailored Jacket

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ARMANI Unstructured textured jacket

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3. Ralph Lauren

• What does the Ralph Lauren customer appreciate? “the finest fabrics and attention to detail”.

• Dark suits in solids and neat patterns such as pinstripes exemplify the Purple Label collection. Two and three-button styles are popular, with center or side vents and hacking pockets. The emphasis on model treatment and luxurious fabric.

• The Polo Tailored collection includes fine worsted wool, year round suits, as well flannel cashmere blendes in solids and herringbones.



4. Christopher Bailey for Burberry

• Designer Christopher Bailey, for their Spring 13 runway, turned the traditional slim-line tailoring that has defined Burberry up a notch (or 10) by invigorating the clean, sophisticated lines with pops of metallic colour and bold prints.

• Overcoats shun through in hues of vibrant pinks and blues, whilst shirts were a little more subdued in neutral toned prints. However, the colourful bomberjackets were the real winners and a must for every guy.

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Jackets in 21st century menswear