BOLIVIA

Less altitude, more vegetationAfter spending 6 days at high altitudes up to 6000 m above sea level,the second part of our Bolivia trip takes us from La Paz (3200-4100 m) to the Bolivian lowlands: we fly to Rurrenabaque (205 m), exchanging

blizzards in the Andes for the tropical plains.

BO

LIV

IA

from the G r e e t i n g s

MOUNTAINS

We step aboard a red and green,barge-style motor boat and headdown the Río Beni towards theMadidi National Park. During the3-hour boat journey we havetime to review the first part ofour trip in the Cordillera Real(which is the source of the RíoBeni, by the way).

river bankA l o n g t h e

After the earthy colours of the Cordillera Real, here it’s“green as far as the eye can see”. The forest extendsright to the exposed edge of the river bank and would

probably continue into the river if it were possible.

We are woken by persistent squawking.We have breakfast in the main house

with the tame parrot. It has a fondnessfor water melon.

A gaudy visitor

TREE HOUSEL i v i n g i n a

Back on land, we have about a 20-minute walk to our accommodation.The Serere Ecolodge is every child’s dream come true: the huts are dottedaround the main house which is in the middle of the verdant rainforest. Instead of solid walls, these “tree houses” are fitted with mosquito netswhich let all the scents and noises of the forest in.

W e l c o m e t o t h e JUNGLE

The Serere Nature Reserve is situated close to Madidi National Park. Theforest is flooded by rivers and there are four lakes. The mix of landscapesin the park and surrounding area offers one of the most species-diverseregions of the world. Between the mountain ridges of the Andes and thelowlands of the Amazon a network of very different habitats have evolved.

Martina befriends a marimono during a rest on the river bank. The littlespider monkey lives up to its name by clambering all over Martina until itfinds a comfortable spot. Marimonos are hunted for their meat and are

under threat. Serere offers them a safe haven.

Getting to know the locals

When we want to move on, Martina’s success at

distracting the monkey withbananas is short-lived.

She is already seated in the dugout canoe when we hear

a rustling above us in the foliage and the marimonomakes a perfect landing

onto her rucksack.

1 0 0 % VITA

LITY

Ferns as tall as humans wave in thebreeze, a thick leaf mould cushions ourfeet, while all around us the glisteningvegetation grows. Our guide shows usvarious ceiba trees, which are typicalhere: full of awe, we touch the huge

thorns on the trunk and branches. Soonwe are able to recognise the giant

kapok trees from afar by their typical buttress roots, which become

more prominent the older the tree.

OFF

TH

E B

EAT

EN

TR

AC

KWe have half a day left to explore more of the Serere.

The dappled sunshine gilds the brown leaf mould. We follow the boardwalk through the forest, duck under

lianas and, on closer inspection, even discover old friends: a pineapple pushes up towards the light.

O

C

We take to the waterNow our legs get a rest while we paddle.We moor by a sun-bleached tree trunk inthe middle of the lake and fish with just a

line. We all manage to catch something butrelease the fish quickly back into the water.So, when we light a fire on the shore, it’s not

for cooking but for a bit of warmth and achat round the campfire.

LO

UN

GIN

G A

RO

UN

DFresh bananas and hammocks

await us in the main house. Swayinggently in the hammocks, we have

a great view of a lagoon where crocodiles are bobbing up and

down just below the surface. Weeach chill out in our own way.

The verdant Serere accompanies us for a while as wechug downstream, giving us enough time to bid farewell.We feel the breeze from the river in our hair as the greenand red boat cruises towards Rurrenabaque where the

plane for La Paz is waiting.

farewellA g e n t l e

When long trousers are required for tramps throughthe undergrowth, these lightweight ones are just right.When it’s too hot, zip off the lower section and you’vegot a pair of shorts. The easy-care nylon fabric offersfantastic UV protection.

CANYON Z I P O F F PAN T S

Beautifully simple yet warm: the 200 gradefleece jacket provides comfortable insulationpractically all year round. With its system zip

it can be worn as an inner jacket with JACK WOLFSKIN weather protective

jackets that also have this docking zip.

W INN I P EG WOMEN

Sometimes more protection is needed evenwhen it’s hot: thanks to the Q.M.C. fibres,

this shirt is extremely pleasant to wear evenat high temperatures because perspiration

is rapidly absorbed and evaporated.

E L DORADOLONGS L E E V E M EN

The trekking boot with extra stability. The uppers are practicallyall leather but even more importantly there is an extra stabilisingelement to give much-needed support to the ankle. In addition,

the boot is waterproof yet extremely breathable.

E SCA L AD E M I DT E X A PORE

This rucksack is a genuine lightweight yet still packs apunch! It is so well equipped that it can also be used foralpine day trips. The carry system keeps the rucksackclose to the body (good for freedom of movement) whileensuring good ventilation. The rucksack comes in differentvolume sizes as well as a men’s and women’s version.

ATMOSPHER E PACK

More than just clothing

– p r o t e c t i o n i n t h e T r o p i c s

Photos: M

oritz Atte

nberger

Accommodation and guide:www.ecobolivia.org

Best time to travel: April to November, average temperature approx. 25-32°C

Serere Nature Reserve: The 400-hectare forested area is owned by Madidi Travel.Under the motto “tourism for conservation”, the tour operatorallows its visitors to experience the rainforest close up and in-vests the profits in conservation and in the local communities.

Madidi Travel works closely with the Eco Bolivia Foundation andwith other organisations that are engaged in habitat protectionand justice in the region. The local population is also involved inthis. Rosa María Ruiz is the head of Madidi Travel – she hasbeen campaigning for years for the protection of the Bolivianenvironment and the rights of the indigenous population. Ruizplayed a major role in establishing Madidi National Park.

Madidi National ParkThe national park (established in 1995) is one of the largestrainforest conservation areas in the world and extends fromthe 5000 m peaks of the Andes down to about 180 m abovesea level. The habitats in the park represent this diversity.

If the adjacent conservation areas, which lie half in Bolivia andhalf in Peru, are included, the entire region has the potential tobecome one of the largest and most diverse conservationareas in the world. But there is still a long way to go.