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Fresh Pretty DesignsFresh + Pretty Designsto Make and Wearto Make and Wear
Kay WhittKay Whitt
Fresh + Pretty Designsto Make and Wear
SEW SEREN IP ITYSEW SERENDIPIT Y
Includes
Full-Size Patterns
Kay Whitt
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SEW SEREN IP IT YSEW SERENDIP IT Y
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Fresh + Pretty Designsto Make and Wear
SEW SERENDIP IT Y
K AY WHIT T
K R A U S E P U B L I C A T I O N S
C I N C I N N A T I , O H I O
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M e t r i c C o n v e r s i o n C h a r t
T o convert to multiply byInches Centimeters 2.54
Centimeters Inches 0.4Feet Centimeters 30.5
Centimeters Feet 0.03Y ards Meters 0.9Meters Y ards 1.1
Sew Serendipity. Copyright © 2010 by Kay Whitt. Manufacturedin China. All rights reserved. The patterns and drawings in thisbook are for the personal use of the reader. By permission ofthe author and publisher, they may be either hand-traced orphotocopied to make single copies, but under no circumstancesmay they be resold or republished. No other part of this book maybe reproduced in any form or by any electronic or mechanicalmeans including information storage and retrieval systems withoutpermission in writing from the publisher, except by a reviewer
who may quote brief passages in a review. Published by KrausePublications, a division of F+W Media, Inc., 4700 East GalbraithRoad, Cincinnati, Ohio, 45236. (800) 289-0963. First Edition.
www.fwmedia.com
14 13 12 11 10 5 4 3 2 1
DISTRIBUTED IN CANADA BY FRASER DIRECT100 Armstrong AvenueGeorgetown, ON, Canada L7G 5S4
Tel: (905) 877-4411
DISTRIBUTED IN THE U.K. AND EUROPE BY DAVID & CHARLESBrunel House, Newton Abbot, Devon, TQ12 4PU, EnglandTel: (+44) 1626 323200, Fax: (+44) 1626 323319Email: [email protected]
DISTRIBUTED IN AUSTRALIA BY CAPRICORN LINK P.O. Box 704, S. Windsor NSW, 2756 AustraliaTel: (02) 4577-3555
Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication DataWhitt, Kay. Sew serendipity : fresh + pretty designs to make and wear / KayWhitt. -- 1st ed. p. cm.
Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN-13: 978-1-4402-0357-2 (hardcover : alk. paper) ISBN-10: 1-4402-0357-1 (hardcover : alk. paper) 1. Dressmaking. I. Title. TT515.W426 2010 646.4’04--dc22 2010008060
Edited by Vanessa LymanDesigned by Michelle ThompsonProduction coordinated by Greg NockStep-by-step photography by Christine Polomsky, all other
photography by Ric DeliantoniIllustrations and samples created by Kay Whitt
About the Author “Love what you do, and you will never work a day in
your life.”
In a nutshell, this quote describes exactly the way
Kay Whitt feels about her work as a pattern designer for
clothing and accessories. After spending nine years as
an elementary school teacher (sewing in her spare time
and selling her creations to colleagues), she resigned from
teaching and launched her pattern company. Since then,
Kay has earned a reputation for her innovative designs
and clear instructions, making her patterns some of the
most popular in the marketplace.
In addition to the designs she creates for her company,
Serendipity Studio (www.sewserendipity.com), she is
a licensed designer for the McCall Pattern Company as
Kay Whitt Designs.
Kay resides in Texas with her husband, Keith, and
their two birds, ET and Zeppy. She is always busy workingon something new and exciting and never tires of sharing
her passion for design and sewing.
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C o n t e n t s 9 INT RODUC T ION 1 0 C UST OM F IT T ING 1 1 St eps t o a Cust om Fit 1 2 T aking Measur ement s 1 3 Making t he Muslin 1 4 Ad just ing t he Fit
1 6 T OOLS OF T HE T RADE 1 7 Sew ing Mac hine
and Ac c essor ies 1 8 Indispensable Not ions
2 0 SEW ING T EC HN IQUES 2 1 Pr essing Int ent ional Cr eases 2 1 Double T opst it c hing 2 2
Inst alling an Inv isible Z ipper 2 4 Adding Fac ings 2 5 Under st it c hing 2 6 Making Gat her s 2 7 Using a Ruf fler At t ac hment
2 8 S k i r t s 3 0 Gener al Const r uc t ion 3 6 Appliqué Skir t 4 0 T ailor ed Skir t
4 6 Mult i-Fabr ic Skir t 5 2 T hr ee-Fabr ic Skir t 5 8 Ruf fled Skir t 6 4 Flor al Skir t
7 0 T u n i c s a n d Dr e 7 2 Gener al Const r uc t ion 7 8 Damask T unic 8 4 Ruf fle-T r immed T unic 9 0 Fr ay ed T unic Dr ess
9 6 Geomet r ic T unic Dr ess 1 0 0 Flir t y T unic Dr ess 1 0 6 Romant ic Flor al T unic Dr ess
1 1 2 J a c k e t s 1 1 4 Gener al Const r uc t ion 1 2 2 Silk and Linen Jac ket 1 2 8 Par isian Jac ket 1 3 4 Cozy W ool Jac ket 1 4 0 Denim and Faux Fur Jac ket
1 4 6 Mod Jac ket
1 5 4 Classic T ailor ed Jac ket
1 5 8 RESOURC ES
1 5 9 INDEX
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Chapter One
S RTSSK IRTS
I LOVE A GREAT SKIRT! It’s the perfect way to stay cool on hot summer
days, yet look sophisticated. I especially love the way a skirt can bring together
a collection of fabric prints in just the right way. With the skirts featured here,
you can achieve a casual look while out and about running errands, or look
quite elegant for a special evening by pairing it with one of the jackets.
The skirts in this section are all based on one set of pattern pieces for an
A-line six-panel skirt. Once you have made yourself familiar with the General
Construction techniques, you can make any of these skirts easily. Through
the use of various fabric combinations and embellishments, each showcases
a unique style and yet remains simple to sew. Once you have mocked up this
design following the recommendations in Custom Fitting, you’ll have a patterndesign that is perfect for you.
Be creative with your fabric choices. For this design, I suggest 100% cotton
quilting fabrics, linen or silk. I love pairing a great texture with cotton—silk with
cotton is one of my personal favorites!
Zippered losure a bac
Faed waisline
Six-panel design
A-line for a flatering fi
Tree opions for lengh
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G
E
N
E
R
L
C
O
N
S
T
R
U
C
T
I
O
NGENER AL CONS TRUC T ION
Sk ir t s
Once a l l the f a bric pattern pieces ha ve been cut and a ll
notches ha ve been marked or clipped, remo ve the tissue
pattern pieces.
NOE: A l l seam a llowances are ½" un less otherwise stated.
PREPARE THE WAIS TLINE FACING
1. A pp l y f usi b le interf acing to the wrong sides of Front
and Back Facings f o l lowing the manuf acturer’s
instructions.
2. Matching notches, pin the Back Facings to the Front
Facing, right sides together. (figure 1)
3. Sew ½" seams and press open. Finish the lower edge of
the facing unit b y serging or using a zigzag stitch. Set
the facing unit aside. (figure 2)
MAK E THE POCK E T
1. If making one pocket, cut out two Pocket pieces. If
making two pockets, cut out four Pocket pieces.
2. A pp ly either the smooth or ruffl e contrast f a bric
band (as directed in the variation you are making) to
the top edge of the Pocket piece, right sides together,
matching the raw edges. Te contrast band shou ld
extend 1" be yond each side edge. (figure 3)
3. Sew the contrast f a bric band to the Pocket piece with
a ¼" seam a l lowance.
4. With right sides together, la y the remaining Pocket
piece on top. Fo l low the pre vious stitching a long the
top edge and stitch a ¼" seam a long the bottom. Lea ve
side edges open. (figure 4)
F rn t Fa i ng B ac Fa i ng s
R ig h t s id e o fa in g un it
L w e r fi n ish e d e d ge
1 "
1"
Sm h nt ra st ba nd R uff le n tr as t b an d
1"
1"
1 "
A ll p ie es ri gh t sid es t ge th er
¼" s e a m al lw a n e
FIGURE 4
FIGURE 3
FIGURE 2
FIGURE 1
1 "
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5. Turn the pocket right side out and press the seams
at the top and bottom. Press the contrast fabric bandor ruffl e aw ay from the poc
ket to extend beyond the pocket edge. Edgestitch and topstitch the upper pocket edge on the main fabric below the seam. (figure 5)
6. For the smooth contrast f abric band, edge- and
topstitch the band along the pressed edges. (figure 6)
7. Pin the pocket to the Side Front piece, right side up.
For one pocket, pin to the left Side Front. For tw opockets, place one on each Side Front. A ll piecesshould have right sides facing up. Place the pocket on the skirt so that the upp
er slanting seam is about 3½"dow n from the top edge of the skirt and the low erslanting seam is about 6" down f rom the top edge ofthe skirt. (figure 7)
8. Sew the side edges of the pocket in place, using a
¼" seam. Edgestitch along the bottom on the main fabric. Topstitch along the bottom edge of the pocketas w ell. Trim the contrast f abric band or ruffl e edges that extend beyond the Side Front edge. (figure 8)
Cu t aw a y C u t a w a y
Cu t aw a y
Ed g e st it a n d t p s ti t e d g e
6 " 3
½ "
S ti t ¼ " f m s id es
T p st i t l w e r e d g e o p c e t
E d g e s t i t i n g a n d t p s t i t i n g
FIGURE 7
FIGURE 6FIGURE 5
FIGURE 8
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Si de F r nt s
Ce nt er F rn t
C en te r Ba c
Si de B ac
Ed g e fi n ish C en te r B a c
FIGURE 9
FIGURE 10
FIGURE 11
SE W THE SK IR T SEC TIONS
AND ADD THE ZIPPER
1. With right sides together, matching notches and top
and bottom edges, p lace a Side Front on each side of
the Center Front. Pin, then stitch together. (figure 9)
Tese seams can be serged together or trimmed and
zigzagged to keep the edges f rom ra ve lling.
2. Press the seams toward the Center Front and edge-
stitch c lose to the seam on the Center Front piece.
3. P lace one Side Back on each of the Center Back skirt
pieces, right sides together. Match the notches as
we ll as the top and bottom edges. Sew and press the
seam toward the Center Back piece. Edgestitch the
seams. K eep the Center Back open to prepare f or the
zipper insta llation. (figure 10)
4. Edge finish each Center Back edge and insta ll the
zipper (page 22) according to the instructions in the
Sewing echniques section. (figure 11)
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F r n t o s k i r t ( p i e e s r i gh t s i d e s t g e t h e r )
E d g es e v e n
( R i g h t s i d e o s k i r t ) Z i pp er p e n e d u t
C l ip w a i st li n e se a m t s t i t
FIGURE 14
FIGURE 13
FIGURE 12
SEW T HE SIDE SEAMS
AND ADD T HE FACINGS
1. Once the zipper has been installed and the seam
is sew n and pressed, place the f ront and back skirtsections right sides together. Make sure the side seams are aligned, the notches are matched, and the edges at the top and bottom are even. Sew each side seam and press the seam to one side. (figure 12) Clip the curve of the seam near the top as necessary.
2. Edgestitch the side seams, as before, close to the
seamline.
3. Unzip the skirt and open out the top edge at the
zipper. Add the facings to the top edge of the skirt, right sides together w ith back edges ev en, matchingside seams. (figure 13)
4.
Sew the facing to the skirt. Trim the seam to ¼" and clip the seam allow ance. (figure 14)
( W r o n g
s i d e o
f a c i n g )
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L w er sk ir t ( w rn g si de )
FIGURE 17
5. Understitch the f acing as instructed in the Sewing
echniques section (page 25).
6. urn the f acing to the inside of the skirt and press.
C lose the zipper and open out the f acings at Center
Back. Fo ld in the ends of the f acing ½" and gent l y
press. urn the f acing back to the inside and press
again. (figures 15a, 15 b)
7. Edgestitch the top finished edge of the skirt through
a l l thicknesses. (figure 16)
ADD THE LO WER SK IR T
1. Sew the skirt’s Lower Back Pane l piece to the Lower
Front Pane l piece a long the side seams. K eep right
sides together, and match notches and edges. (figure
17) Press seams to one side.
E dg e tu rn ed b ac
Fa i ng , pe n e d u t
W r n g s id eo sk ir t
F a in g, tu rn e d t in sid e
E dg es tit in g
FIGURE 16
W r ng s i d e o sk ir t
FIGURE 15A
FIGURE 15B
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2. Pin and stitch the low er skirt to the main skirt, right
sides together, matching notches and side seams.(figure 18)
3. Press the seam tow ard the main skirt. Edgestitch
next to the seam on top of the seam allowance and also topstitch if desired.
HEM T HE SK IRT
1. Clean finish the lower edge of the skirt w ith the
serger, or use a zigzag stitch. Turn up a 1" hem,w rong sides together, and press. (figure 19)
2. From the right side of the f abric, topstitch along
the bottom edge of the skirt, once ¾ " aw ay f rom the pressed edge, and then again ⅝" f rom the edge. Pressthe hem. (figure 20)
P i e es ri g h t s id es t ge th er
L w e r s k i rt
M a in s k i r t
Sk ir t, w r n g si d e u t
1 " h e m t u r n e d t w r n g si d e
T p st it i n g ,
5
⁄ 8
" & ¾" f m e d ge
FIGURE 20
FIGURE 19
FIGURE 18
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Skirts
MULTI FABRIC SK I RTMULTI -FABRIC SK IRT
THE MULTI-FABRIC SKIRT uses a combination of five
coordinating fabric prints. Have you ever seen a collection
of fabric that you loved so much, you wanted to buy all
the pieces? Here’s your excuse to buy all of the prints you
love, and then put them together in a way that makes the
most of them.
M a t e r i a l s l i s t
For a l l sizes:
Fa bric A (Center Front and
Center Bac k ): ¾ yard
Fa bric B (R ig ht Side Front
and Left Side Bac k ): ¾ yard
Fa bric C (Left Side Front
and R ig ht Side Bac k ):
¾ yard
Fa bric D (Poc ket ): ¼ yard
Fa bric E (Poc ket R uffl e and
Hem R uffl e ): ¼ yard
Y arda g es f or all f abrics based on
45"- wide cotton f abric
O t h e r Su p p l i e s
2½ yards of ¾"- wide ric krac k
trim
¼ yard of 20"- wide fusi b le
interfacing for lig ht- to
medium- weig ht fa brics
9" in visi b le zi p per
Po l yester mac hine t hread to
matc h fa brics
R otar y cutter, ru ler and mat
(o ptiona l )
Scissors
R uffl er attac hment for
se wing mac hine (o ptiona l )
Mar king pen or penci l
MY INITIAL SKETCH
Notice in my original sketch how the pocket was on the right
side; I switched it to the left. The sketch also shows a partial
ruffle because this is an optional design element. So you be the
designer and decide: to ruffle, or not to ruffle?
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LA YOU T
From the tissue pattern, use the cutting lines f rom the f ul l- length skirt. Te la youts a bove show flipped tissue
pattern pieces; this a l lows you to correctl y cut both the left and right sides of the Side Front and Side Back pieces
of the skirt. Te layout a lso shows how to p lace the pieces if you’re using f a bric with a directional print. If there is
no apparent direction to the print, then la y the pieces out howe ver best conser ves f a bric, making sure to f o llow the
grain line. Te f acings are not shown, but can be cut f rom Fa bric D.
CONS TRUC TION
Fol low the steps in Genera l Construction for Prepare
the W aistline Facin g .
CON TRAS T FOR POCK E T
1. Cut two 2"-wide strips b y the width of f a bric f rom
Fa bric E. rim se lvedge edges f rom the ends.
A llowing a ¼" seam, piece the two strips, right sides
together, a long one of the narrow ends, making one
long strip.
2. Press the seam open. Fo ld the strip in ha lf lengthwise
with the wrong sides together, matching the raw
edges, and press.
F ld o ab r
Ce n t er F r nt
C en te r Ba c
Fa br A —S elv ed g e e dg e
Fa br D
* U e le f ve r p e e r a n g
F ld
P c et
S elv ed ge e dg e
S d e Ba c ( t i u e a e up )
S de F r nt (t iu e a e d w n )
F ab r C —S n gl e t h c ne s o a br S elv ed g e e dg e
S d e b a c (t iue a e d w n )
S de F r nt ( ti u e a e u p)
Fa b r B —S n gle t h c ne s o a br
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FIGURE 1
3. Use a long, straight stitch to sew tw o row s at ¼" and
⅜" f rom the raw edges. Create gathers by pulling on the bobbin threads. Or use a ruffler attachment to gather at every 6th stitch, sew ing along the length of the raw edges approximately ⅜" f rom the edge.Press flat.
4. W ith right sides together and matching the raw
edges, stitch the ruffle to one of the Pocket pieces atthe top and bottom edges. Follow the M ake t he Pocket instructions in Gener al Construction to complete the pocket and its placement on the left Side Front.(figure 1)
ADDING RICK RACK T RIM FOR
SIDE FRONT AND BACK
1.
Pin the rickrack trim to the sides of the Center Frontand Center Back pieces along the ½" seam allow ance.Sew dow n the middle of the trim. (figure 2)
2. Continue w ith the Sew the Skirt Sect ions and Add the
Z ip per instructions in General Constr uction, except that you press the Center Front and Center Back seams toward the Side pieces so that the rickrack trim lies on top of the Center Front and Center Back.Edgestitch and topstitch the seams. (figure 3)
3. Complete Sew t he Side Seams and Ad d t he F acin g s
section in General Constr uction.
FIGURE 2
FIGURE 3
C e n t er F r on t
R i c ra c
R i c ra c
t u r n e d t o w ar d
C en te r F r o n t
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RUFFLE HEM
1. For the ruffl e hem, cut two 4"-wide strips f rom
Fa bric E b y the width of f a bric. rim off the se l vedge
edges f rom each end. A l lowing a ¼" seam, piece the
two strips, right sides together, a long one of the
narrow ends, making one long strip. Press the seam
a l lowance open.
2. Fo ld the strip in ha lf lengthwise, wrong sides
together, and press.
3. Use a long, straight stitch to sew two rows at ¼" and
⅜ " f rom the raw edges. Create gathers b y pu l ling on
the bo b bin threads. Or use a ruffl er attachment to
gather at e ver y 6th stitch, sewing a long the length
of the raw edges approximate ly ⅜ " f rom the edge.
Press flat.
4. Pin the ruffl e to the right side of the skirt, beginning
2" to the lef t of the back center seam, ad justing the
gathers to fit, a ligning the raw edges of the ruffl e and
skirt. (figure 4)
5. Begin stitching the ruffl e in p lace, starting 2" in f rom
the back center seam, using a ½" seam a llowance.
Stitch a ll the wa y around the hem, stopping 2" bef ore
the beginning. (figure 5) C lip the threads.
6. Press both loose ends of the ruffl e back on them-
se lves, matching a l l the raw edges, positioning the
f o lds e ven with the back center seam. (figure 6)
Open the fo lded ends and draw a line on each pressed
crease. (figure 7)
7. rim the ruffl e ends to within 1" of the markings.
With right sides together, match the markings and
stitch the ruffl e ends together. (figure 8)
8. Stitch again in the seam a llowance to reinf orce the
seam, approximate l y ⅛ " awa y f rom the origina l
stitching. rim the seam, then press to the side.
9. Pin the open area of the ruffl e to the skirt, matching
the seam with the back center seam and stitch
in p lace.
10. Serge, or trim and finish the seam edge with a zigzag
stitch. Press the seam toward the skirt.
11. opstitch the skirt c lose to the seam line. R epeat ¼"
awa y f rom the first row of stitching.
FIGURE 6
FIGURE 5
FIGURE 8
O v er lap
2" 2"
F l d b a c 2 "
S k rt
S tt n g ln e
FIGURE 4
2"
B ac en te r ea m
2"
Dr aw l n e d w n p re s ed r ea e
FIGURE 7
Ba c en te r ea m
B a c e n ter e a m
B ac e nt er e am
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m a k e i t y o u r o w n
To make this skir t your o wn, ho w abou t choo
sing a di f feren t trim be t ween
the Side Fron t and Side Back? Or you could
bu y an addi tional fabric for
a con tras ting s trip be t ween the seams, like
the Tailored Skir t. Ano ther
op tion — which I like — would be to add a s wee t
appliqué to the pocke t.
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Chapter Two
TUNICS ND DRESSESTUNICS AND DRESSES
THE IDEA THAT A tunic can also become a dress is based on my love of
a versatile design with simple lines that is easy to sew and compliments anyone.
Nothing is better than mastering one pattern that can serve so many purposes!
All six projects in this section originate from one basic set of pattern pieces that
features details such as a raglan sleeve, Empire waistline, and a closely fitting
A-line skirt in three lengths.
The following projects detail six variations: two hip-length tunics that can
be worn with a slim skirt or pants, two above-knee-length and two below-
knee-length dresses. Through the use of various fabric combinations and
embellishments, each project showcases its own unique style and yet remains
simple to sew using the same pattern pieces again and again. Suggested fabricsfor this design include 100% cotton quilting fabrics, linen or silk.
Once you have mocked up this design following the recommendations in
Custom Fitting, you will have a pattern design that is perfect for you. Now it’s
time to have fun with all of those fabulous fabrics!
Elasti at shoulder only
Gentle A-line skirt
Subtle gatheringat necline,sleeves and
waist
Zipper losure at side seam
Empire waistline
Raglan sleeve
Hip, above-knee or below-knee lengths
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NGENER AL CONS TRUC T ION
Tu n i cs a nd Dr e ss e s
Once the f abric pieces ha ve been cut out and a l l notches
ha ve been snipped, remo ve tissue pattern pieces.
NOE: A l l seam al lowances are ½" un lessotherwise stated.
PREPARE THE FACINGS
1. A pp ly f usi b le interf acing to the wrong sides of Front
and Back Facings f o l lowing the manuf acturer’s
instructions. Note that the S lee ve Facings are not
backed with interf acing.
2.
Matching notches, pin the S lee ve Facings to the
Front Facing, right sides together. Off set the edges
to a lign the ½ " seam a llowance on either side. (figure
1a) R epeat for the Back Facing. (figure 1 b)
3. Sew a l l f our seams and press. Finish the outer edge
of the f acing unit b y serging or using a zigzag stitch
a long the outer edge (figure 2). Set f acing unit aside.
A T TACH THE BODICE
AND SK IR T PIECES
1. Whi le the Front and Back Bodices are sti l l f o lded in
ha lf , snip a sma l l triang le f rom each corner of the
f o ld within the seam a llowance. Tis wil l mark the
center of the neck line as we l l as at the waistline.
(figure 3)
FIGURE 1A
FIGURE 3
FIGURE 2
O ff s e t e d g e s t o a l i g n
½" s e a m a l l o w a n c e
F r n t Fa i n g
B ac Fa i ng
Ou t r fi ni h d
d g
Sn ip F o l d
Fr n t Fa i ng
Fr n t B di B ac B di
S l v Fa i ng
B ac Fa i ng
F r nt Fa in g
F o l d
FIGURE 1B
Sl v Fa i ng
S l v F a in g
Sn ip
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2. Use a long, straight stitch to sew tw o rows along the
low er edge of each Bodice piece, one row at ¼" and the other at ⅜ ". Begin and end approximately 2" f rom the side edges. (figure 4)
3. W hile the Front and Back Skirt are still f olded in half ,
snip aw ay a small triangle from the top edge of the f old to mark the center of each (as you did in step 1 for the bodices).
4. Place the Front Bodice on the Front Skirt, right sides
together, matching the center snips. Gently pull the gathering stitches until the low er edge of the bodice is the same size as the top of the skirt. Distributethe gathers ev enly and pin in place, keeping the raw edges ev en. Stitch the bodice to the skirt using a ½" seam allow ance. (figure 5). R epeat for the Back Bodice and Back Skirt.
5. Serge the seam or trim the seam and use a zigzag
stitch to clean-finish the edge.
6. Press the seam toward the skirt for f ront and back.
Press creases in the bodice pieces to make thegathering lie flat. (See page 21.)
7. Double topstitch close to the seam. (See page 21.)
(figure 6)
INST ALL T HE ZIPPER
1. Clean-finish the edge on the lef t side of the front and
back pieces by serging or using a zigzag stitch. Leave the entire seam allow ance open.
2. On the back, mark 3" dow n from the top on the lef t
side along the finished edge. R epeat for the f rontpiece. (figure 7)
3. Install the inv isible zipper. (See page 22.)
4. Once the zipper has been installed, stitch the seam
closed abov e the zipper just like for the seam below the zipper.
FIGURE 6
FIGURE 7
FIGURE 5
F r n t B d i (w r n g s id )
F r n t S ki r t ( ri g h t s id )
T ps t i t in g
F i n i s h d d g s
F r n t B d i ,l f s id
3 " Ba c B d i ,l f si d
FIGURE 4
F r n t B d i ( sa m r B a c B d i )
2" 2 "
C n t r
C n t r
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5. o reinf orce the zipper opening, sew a bartack at
the upper edge. Drop the f eed dogs on your sewing
machine and set it f or a tight zigzag that is approxi-
mate ly ⅛ " wide. With the zipper c losed, center the
machine foot o ver the seam a bo ve the zipper as c lose
as possib le to the beginning of the zipper opening
and stitch. (figure 8)
SE W THE SIDE SEAM
AND SLEE VES
1. Sew the opposite side seam, c lean-finishing the edge,
and press the seam toward the back.
2. Fo ld each S lee ve piece in ha lf and snip on the f o ld
within the seam a l lowance to mark the center.
3.
With right sides together, sew the s lee ve seam,
c lean-finish the edge and press.
4. Using the longest straight stitch on your sewing
machine, sew two lines of gathering stitches a long
the bottom edge of each s lee ve, ¼" and ⅜ " awa y
f rom the raw edge. Begin and end at the s lee ve seam.
(figure 9)
5. o make the bands f or the s lee ves, measure around
your upper arm, approximate l y 3"-4" a bo ve the
e lbow. A dd 1½" to this measurement for ease and the
seam a l lowance.
6. Cut two strips f rom the f a bric, 2¼" wide b y the
measurement determined in the pre vious step.
7. Sew the narrow ends of each strip together, right
sides together, using a ¼" seam a l lowance. Press the
seams to one side. (figure 10)
8. Fo ld the bands in ha lf , wrong sides together, with
raw edges e ven and press. With the seam at one
end, flatten the band to find the center. Snip a sma ll
triang le at the top raw edges to mark the center.
(figure 11)
FIGURE 8
FIGURE 10
FIGURE 9
s l e e v e b a n d s
Measuring your arm will result in the best fit f or the sleeve band, but, in a pinch, thereare some benchmark measurements you can use. (Seam allowances are included.)
XXS: 12¾" XS: 13" S: 13¼" M: 13½" L: 13¾" XL: 14" XXL: 14¼"
Ba r ta c
Sid am w it h zi pp r
S a m
R w o g at h ri ng tit
S l v
S am p r s d t n i d
½" am a ll w a n Sl v b an d
FIGURE 11
Sn ip
T p ra w d g
S a
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9. W ith right sides together, place the band on the
sleeve, matching seams and center snips. Gently pull the gathering stitches until the low er edge ofthe sleev e is the same size as the band. Distributethe gathers evenly and pin in place, raw edges ev en.(figure 12)
10. Stitch the band and sleeve together ensuring that
the seamline is below the lowest line of gatheringstitches. Serge the seam edges or trim and zigzag.
11. Press the seam toward the sleeve. Press creases in the
gathering (as you did w ith the Front and Back Bodice pieces earlier).
12. Edgestitch the sleev e band close to the seam and
again along the outer edge. (figure 13)
ADD T HE SLEEV ES AND FACINGS
1. W ith right sides together, pin the sleeves to the
bodice by matching notches and seams. (figure 14)
2. Stitch the seams. Serge the seam or trim the seam
and use a zigzag stitch to clean-finish the edge. Press.
3. Fold the Front Facing in half, matching sleev e seams,
and snip the center at the fold. R epeat for the Back Facing. (figure 15)
4. Using a long, straight stitch, sew tw o lines of
gathering stitches along the Front and Back Bodice at the neck, ¼" and ⅜ " from the raw edges, starting 1½"in from the sleev e seams. (figure 16)
FIGURE 14
FIGURE 13
FIGURE 12
FIGURE 15
S l v (w r n g s id )
Sl v ba n d
P in ts o F r n t a n d B a c B d i e n d i n g
T p st i t i n g
E d g st i t i n g
M a t s am s
S l v ( w r n g si d )
B a c B d i ( w r n g s i d ) F r n t B di (w r n g s id )
S n i p
B a c F a in g
S l v F a i n g
F r n t F a in g
F o l d
S l v B a c B d i
S l v
1 ½"
F r n t B d i
1½"
F o l d
1 ½" 1 ½"
R aw d g s
FIGURE 16
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5. Pin the f acing unit to the top edge of the bodice and
s lee ves, right sides together, matching seams and
center snips. Gentl y pu l l gathering threads unti l the
neck line edges match the f acing unit in size. N ote:
Make sure that the larger Front Facing is matched
up with the Front Bodice edge bef ore stitching. Sew
together with a ½" seam a l lowance.(figure 17)
6. rim the seam a l lowance to ¼" and c lip the cur ve of
the neck line o ver the S lee ve section. On the Front
and Back Bodice sections, notch the seam to ease the
cur ve. (figure 18)
7. Understitch the front and back neck line edges as
detai led in Sewin g T echniques (page 25), stopping at
the s lee ve seams. (Te gathering on the s lee ves wil l
keep the f acings f rom ro lling outward.)
8. urn the f acings to the inside of the bo
dice and press.
9. o make the casing for the e lastic, stitch ½" awa y
f rom the finished edge a long the top of each s lee ve.
(figure 19)
10. Cut two pieces of e lastic ⅜ " b y 6" long.
11. Secure a sma l l safety pin near one end of the e lastic
and insert into s lee ve casing. Pu ll the e lastic through
unti l on ly a bout ½" extends be yond the seam on
either side. Pin in p lace. R epeat for the remaining
s lee ve. (figure 20)
FIGURE 18
FIGURE 17
FIGURE 19
FIGURE 20
B a c B d i
F r nt B d i
“T ri an gl ”
“T ria n gl ” S ni p Sn ip
B ac B di
Sl v
B di
B di T p ti t i ng ½" f m dg
S ti t l in o a in g
El a ti
½" be nd a m
Fr n t B di
F a c i n
g
u n i t
F a c i n g u n i t
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FIGURE 22
FIGURE 23
FIGURE 21
S ti t - i n - t h - d i t
R i g h t s id o Sl v
½" ½"
E l a s t i
T p s t it in g ½" m d g t l in u p w it h s l v a s in g
E d g s t i t i n g
T p s ti t i n g d t a i l o h m
E d g st i t i n g
ADD T HE HEM
1. Serge or zigzag the bottom edge to clean-finish.
2. Turn up 1¼" f or the hem and press. Pin in place and
topstitch 1" up from pressed edge. Stitch again ¼"away from first line of stitching. Edgestitch along the folded edge of the bottom as desired. (figure
23)
12. Try on the tunic/dress and check for fit on the
neckline. Pull up elastic until you are pleased w ith the fit. Measure across the top of each sleev e to checkthat they are the same. Stitch the elastic in place bystitching-in-the-ditch of the sleev e seam on the frontand back. Trim the elastic that extends beyond the seamline. (figure 21)
13. Press the entire bodice, intentionally creating creases
in the gathering as detailed in the Sewing T echniques(page 21). Topstitch around the bodice necklinesections ½" aw ay f rom the finished edges, matching up w ith the top of sleeve stitching. Edgestitch the front and back neckline edges to finish. (figure 22)
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Chapter Three
J KETS JACKETS
JACKETS ARE SUCH A wonderful addition to a wardrobe! I love how they
have a way of pulling an entire outfit together. Some jackets make a statement
of their own with bold fabrics or special trims with lots of texture. The jackets in
this section have their own star appeal as well as being just the perfect addition
to an outfit. All six projects originate from one basic set of pattern pieces which
features details such as a raglan three-quarter-length sleeve, raised waistline,
and a semi-fitted A-line skirt with subtle gathering and featured in three lengths.
Each project has its own individual detailing with the collar, cuffs, button tabs
or a tie belt.
The following projects detail six variations: two at hip-length that can be
worn with a skirt or pants, two fingertip-length and two knee-length jackets.Through the use of various fabric combinations and embellishments, each
showcases its own unique style and yet remains simple to sew. Suggested
fabrics for this design include linen, heavier weight cottons such as twills or
velveteen, linen, and wool.
Once you have made muslins for this design following the recommendations
in Custom Fitting, you will have a perfect-fitting jacket to show off a great
piece of textured fabric!
Opinal llar
Butn lsure
Bus dars
Gahering a bdieseam fr ease o fi lwer bdy
Raglan sleeves
Opins frsleeve hems
A-line fr lwer jace
Tree lengh pins
Empire wais
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9 7 8 1 4 4 0 2 0 3 5 7 2
5 2 7 9 9
Z4958 US $27.99
(CAN $33.99)
ISBN-13: 978-1-4402-0357-2
ISBN-10: 1-4402-0357-1
E A N
U P C