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Plan Your Trip 1
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over.
So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET
İstanbul
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Virginia Maxwell
ContentsContents
Welcome to İstanbul ......4
İstanbul’s Top 10 ............6
What’s New ...................13
Need to Know ............... 14
First Time İstanbul ....... 16
Getting Around .............18
Top Itineraries ............. 20
If You Like ..................... 22
Month by Month .......... 24
With Kids ...................... 26
Like a Local ...................27
For Free ........................ 28
Eating ......................... 29Drinking & Nightlife .................... 35Shopping .................... 38Hamams & Spas .......42
Plan Your Trip page 1
Understand İstanbul 179
Survival Guide 201
İstanbul Maps 236
Plan Your Trip 4
Explore İstanbul 44
Transport ................... 202
Directory A–Z .............207
Language .................... 212
Index ............................222
İstanbul Today ........... 180 History .........................182
Architecture ................ 191
İstanbul on Page & Screen .........................196
Neighbourhoods at a Glance .......................... 46
Sultanahmet & Around .......................... 48
Bazaar District ............ 86
Western Districts ...... 106
Beyoğlu ....................... 116
Beşiktaş, Ortaköy & Kuruçeşme ................. 141
Kadıköy ........................148
Day Trips ....................154
Sleeping .....................170
MAT
T MU
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O / LO
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T ©
KO
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AN
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ET
TY IM
AG
ES ©
DA
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TY IM
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ES ©
Beyoğlup116
Kadıköyp148
BazaarDistrict
p86
WesternDistricts
p106
Beşiktaş, Ortaköy& Kuruçeşme
p141
Sultanahmet& Around
p48
(left) Mezes p30 Traditional small dishes
(above) Şakirin Mosque p151 Modern mosque in Üsküdar
(right) Topkapı Palace p57 Famous palace with a colourful history
MA
RK
RE
AD
/ LON
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LAN
ET ©
Explore İstanbulNeighbourhoods at a Glance . . . . . . . . .46
Sultanahmet & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . .48Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . . 82Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 83Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83Sports & Activities . . . . . . . . 85
Bazaar District . . . . . . 86Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 101Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102Sports & Activities . . . . . . . 105
Western Districts . . . 106Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111Eating & Drinking . . . . . . . . .115
Beyoğlu . . . . . . . . . . . 116Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .118Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 134Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 137Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138Sports & Activities . . . . . . . 140
Beşiktaş, Ortaköy & Kuruçeşme . . . . . . . 141Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 146Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147Sports & Activities . . . . . . 147
Kadıköy . . . . . . . . . . . 148Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .151Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . .151Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 153Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153Sports & Activities . . . . . . . 153
Day Trips . . . . . . . . . . 154The Bosphorus . . . . . . . . . . 155The Golden Horn . . . . . . . . 164Princes’ Islands . . . . . . . . . 167
Sleeping . . . . . . . . . . . 170
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd44
Aya Sofya .......................... 50
Topkapı Palace ..................57
Blue Mosque......................67
Istanbul Archaeology Museums ...........................69
Basilica Cistern ................. 71
Grand Bazaar ................... 88
Süleymaniye Mosque ....... 91
Spice Bazaar .....................93
Kariye Museum (Chora Church) ...............108
İstiklal Caddesi .................118
İstanbul Modern ...............119
Dolmabahçe Palace ........ 143
Kadıköy Produce Market ..............................150
TOP SIGHTSİSTANBUL’S
45
Top ItinerariesDay OneSultanahmet & Around (p48)
M Head to Aya Sofya Meydanı (Square) and work out which of the museums
and mosques in the immediate area will be on your visiting list. Don’t miss Aya Sofya, the Blue Mosque and the Basilica Cistern.
Sultanahmet & Around (p48)
R Diverge from the tourist trail and visit some of Sultanahmet’s hidden
highlights by following our walking tour (p78. Source some souvenirs in the historic Arasta Bazaar.
Sultanahmet & Around (p48)
N After enjoying an early dinner, make your way to Sirkeci, where you
can watch dervishes whirl at Hocapaşa Cultural Centre, a converted 15th-century hamam. Alternatively, claim a table at Derviş Aile Çay Bahçesi or Cafe Meşale, where you can enjoy tea, nargile (water pipe) and a free (but very touristy) whirling-dervish performance.
Day TwoSultanahmet & Around (p48)
M It’s time to investigate the lifestyles of the sultans at Topkapı Palace.
You’ll need a half day to explore the palace Harem, marvel at the precious objects in the Treasury and wander through the pavilion-filled grounds.
Beyoğlu (p116)
R Explore the streets, cafes and boutiques of Galata and Çukurcuma,
perhaps popping into Orhan Pamuk’s nos-talgic Museum of Innocence.
Sultanahmet (p48) & the Bazaar District (p86)
N You’ve spent a full day sightseeing, so why not relax in the steamy sur-
rounds of an Ottoman-era hamam after dinner?
Dinner Have fish at Balıkçı Sabahattin (p81) or kebaps at Hamdi (p100).
Lunch Investigate the cheap eateries on Sirkeci’s Hocapaşa Sokak (p80).
Dinner Karaköy (p128) in Beyoğlu is the city’s new eating and drinking hotspot.
Lunch Matbah (p82) serves Otto-man food in a pleasant garden setting.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd20
Day ThreeBazaar District (p86)
M Get ready to explore the city’s famous Bazaar District. After visit-
ing the most magnificent of all Ottoman mosques, the Süleymaniye, make your way to the world-famous Grand Bazaar to explore its labyrinthine lanes and hid-den caravanserais.
Bazaar District (p86)
R After lunch follow the steady stream of local shoppers making
their way down the hill to the Spice Ba-zaar. While there, seek out the exquisite Rüstem Paşa Mosque, camouflaged in the midst of a busy produce market. As the sun starts to set, walk across the Galata
Bridge towards the eating and entertain-ment district of Beyoğlu.
Beyoğlu (p116)
N Enjoy an after-dinner drink and the view at one of Beyoğlu’s rooftop
bars before winding down at the Tophane nargile cafes.
Day FourThe Bosphorus (p155)
M Board the Long Bosphorus Tour (Uzun Boğaz Turu) for a one-way
trip up the Bosphorus and then make your way back to town by bus, visiting muse-ums and monuments along the way. Alter-natively, take the Dentur Avraysa hop-on/hop-off tour from Kabataş and visit the Sakıp Sabancı Museum in Emirgan, Küçüksu Kasrı and Beylerbeyi Palace.
Beyoğlu (p116)
R If you decided to take a 90-minute cruise on a Bosphorus excursion
boat rather than the full-day or hop-on/hop-off trip, you can devote the afternoon to investigating Beyoğlu’s exciting contem-porary-art scene. Don’t miss the İstanbul
Modern museum and the ARTER and SALT cultural centres.
Beyoğlu (p116)
N Finish your day chilling out to live jazz at longstanding favourite
Nardis Jazz Club or relative newcomer Nublu İstanbul.
Dinner Asmalımescit (p130) in Beyoğlu has lots of restaurants and taverns.
Lunch Grab a cheap eat in or around the Grand Bazaar (p98).
Dinner Relax in a casual but chic cafe in Cihangir (p133).
Lunch MüzedeChanga (p163) for its terrace and Modern Turkish cuisine.
21PLAN
YOUR TRIP T
Op
ITIn
eR
AR
IeS
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9838th edition – February 2015ISBN 978 1 74321 477 0© Lonely Planet 2015 Photographs © as indicated 201510 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
Our WriterVirginia MaxwellAlthough based in Australia, Virginia spends much of her year researching guidebooks in the Mediterranean region. Of these countries, Turkey is unques-tionably her favourite. As well as working on the previous four editions of the İstanbul city guide, she is the author of Lonely Planet’s Pocket İstanbul and the İstanbul and Thrace & Marmara chapters of Lonely Planet’s Turkey guidebook. She also writes about the city for a host of international magazines and web-
sites. Virginia usually travels with partner Peter and son Max, who have grown to love Turkey as much as she does.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Our StoryA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
Walking Tour detourWalking Tour
Path/Walking Trail
BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information
AirportBorder crossingBus
CyclingFerry
U-Bahn/Underground station
MonorailParking
Metro station
Petrol stationS-Bahn/Subway stationTaxi
Train station/RailwayTram
Other Transport
LighthouseHut/ShelterBeach
LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall
River, CreekIntermittent River
Swamp/Mangrove
Reef
Canal
Water
Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake
Glacier
Beach/Desert
Airport/Runway
Cemetery (Christian)
Cemetery (Other)
Park/Forest
Mudflat
Sportsground
Sight (Building)
International
DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall
Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village
State/Province
LaneTertiary
TollwayFreewayPrimary
StepsPlaza/Mall
Pedestrian overpass
Secondary
Unsealed roadRoad under construction
Tunnel
Cable car/Funicular
BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuinSento Hot Baths/OnsenShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight
DivingBodysurfing
Sleeping
Eating
Entertainment
Shopping
Drinking & NightlifeCafe
Camping
Canoeing/KayakingCourse/TourSkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity
Tube station
Information Routes
Boundaries
Hydrography
Areas
Geographic
Population
Transport
Sights
Activities,Courses & Tours
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book
T-bane/Tunnelbana station
İstanbul Maps
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd236
MAP
INDE
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SİRKECİ
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æ Top Sights (p50) ú Eating (p80) ý Entertainment (p83) 1 İstanbul Archaeology 10 Gülhane Kandil Hocapaşa Culture Museums .................... C3 Tesisleri ....................... B3 Centre.................(see 13) 2 Topkapı Palace.............. C3 11 Güvenç Konyalı ............. A2
12 Hafız Mustafa ............... A2 þ Shopping (p83) æ Sights (p72) 13 Hocapaşa Pidecisi......... A2 19 Özlem Tuna.................... A2 3 Ahmet Hamdi Tanpınar Matbah ................. (see 22)
Literature 14 Sefa Restaurant ............ A4 Ø Sports & Activities (p85) Museum Library......... B3 15 Şehzade Cağ Kebabı .... A2 20 Cağaloğlu Hamamı ....... A3 4 Aya İrini ..........................C4
5 Caferağa Medresesi ..... B4 û Drinking & Nightlife (p82) ÿ Sleeping (p173) 6 Gülhane Park................. B3 Caferağa Medresesi Çay 21 Cheers Hostel................B4 7 İstanbul Museum of the Bahçesi.................(see 5) 22 Ottoman Hotel History of Science 16 Cihannüma ....................B4 Imperial .......................B4 & Technology in 17 Kybele Cafe....................B4 23 Sirkeci Mansion............. B3 Islam ............................ B2 18 Set Üstü Çay Bahçesi... D2 24 Zeynep Sultan Hotel..... B4 8 Soğukçeşme Sokak...... C4
9 Sublime Porte................ B3
238
sultANAh
MEt & Aro
uND – so
uthSULTANAHMET & AROUND - SOUTH Map on p240
æ Top Sights (p50) Hotel Nomade Terrace Bar ............. (see 65) 1 Aya Sofya ......................................................F1 35 Yeşil Ev..........................................................F3 2 Basilica Cistern ............................................E1
3 Blue Mosque................................................D4 þ Shopping (p83) 36 Cocoon ........................................................ E5 æ Sights (p72) 37 Cocoon......................................................... D5 4 Arasta Bazaar..............................................E4 38 Galeri Kayseri...............................................B1 5 Aya Sofya Tombs........................................ F2 39 Iznik Classics ...............................................F3 6 Carpet Museum .......................................... G1 40 Iznik Classics............................................... E4 7 Fountain of Sultan Ahmet III ..................... G1 41 Jennifer's Hamam .....................................D6 8 Great Palace Mosaic Museum .................. E5 42 Jennifer's Hamam ...................................... E5 9 Hippodrome ................................................C3 43 Jennifer's Hamam 2................................... E4 10 Imperial Gate............................................... G1 44 Khaftan ........................................................ C5 11 Kaiser Wilhelm's Fountain .........................D2 45 Mehmet Çetinkaya .................................... E4 12 Lâle Pastanesi (Pudding Shop) ................D2 46 Mehmet Çetinkaya Gallery........................ D5 13 Little Aya Sofya ...........................................A6 47 Tulu............................................................... B4 14 Marmara University Republican 48 Yilmaz Ipekçilik ...........................................H4 Museum ....................................................B4
15 Museum of Turkish & Islamic Arts ...........C3 Ø Sports & Activities (p85) 16 Nakkaş..........................................................C5 49 Ambassador Spa.........................................D1 17 Obelisk of Theodosius................................C4 50 Ayasofya Hürrem Sultan Hamamı ............F2 18 Rough-Stone Obelisk .................................C4 51 Cooking Alaturka........................................ F4 19 Sokullu Şehit Mehmet Paşa Mosque .......A4 52 İstanbul Walks............................................. C5 20 Sphendone ..................................................C5
21 Spiral Column..............................................C4 ÿ Sleeping (p173) 22 Sultanahmet Archaeological Park 53 Ahmet Efendi Evi ........................................ F6 (under restoration).................................. F2 54 Arcadia Blue Hotel ..................................... B3 55 Bahaus Hostel............................................. F4 ú Eating (p80) 56 Big Apple Hostel ......................................... F4 23 Ahırkapı Balıkçısı......................................... F6 57 Dersaadet Hotel..........................................D6 24 Balıkçı Sabahattin.......................................G5 58 Emine Sultan Hotel ....................................D6 25 Çiğdem Pastanesi....................................... B1 59 Erten Konak................................................. E6 26 Cooking Alaturka ........................................ F5 60 Grand Peninsula .........................................G4 27 Erol Lokantası.............................................. B1 61 Hanedan Hotel............................................G3 28 Hafız Mustafa ..............................................D2 62 Hotel Alp Guesthouse................................G3 29 Karadeniz Aile Pide ve Kebap 63 Hotel Empress Zoe.....................................G3 Salonu ....................................................... C1 64 Hotel Ibrahim Pasha .................................. B4 30 Sedef Beyaz................................................. B1 65 Hotel Nomade..............................................D1 31 Sofa Cafe Restaurant................................. F4 66 Hotel Peninsula...........................................G3 32 Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi Selim 67 Hotel Şebnem ............................................. G3 Usta ...........................................................D2 68 Hotel Uyan ...................................................F3 69 Marmara Guesthouse................................G3 û Drinking & Nightlife (p82) 70 Metropolis Hostel.......................................G4 33 Cafe Meşale .................................................E4 71 Osman Han Hotel .......................................G4 34 Derviş Aile Çay Bahçesi .............................E3 72 Sarı Konak Hotel..........................................F5
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BİNBİRDİREK
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Eæ Top Sights (p88) 38 Kahve Dünyası ...................... E5 1 Grand Bazaar ........................D5 39 Kahve Dünyası ......................D2 2 Spice Bazaar .........................E2 40 Lale Bahçesi ..........................B3 3 Süleymaniye Mosque .......... C3 41 Mimar Sinan Teras Cafe ......C2 42 Pandeli ................................... E2 æ Sights (p94) 43 Şark Kahvesi .........................D5 4 Aqueduct of Valens ..............A3 44 Vefa Bozacısı......................... A3 5 Beyazıt Meydanı....................C5 45 Zeyrekhane ............................A1 6 Beyazıt Mosque ....................C5
7 Beyazıt Tower....................... C4 þ Shopping (p102) 8 Büyük Valide Han................. D4 Abdulla Natural 9 Çemberlitaş ...........................E5 Products ................... (see 26) 10 Church of the Monastery 46 Abdulla Natural Products....D5 of Christ Pantokrator ........ A1 47 Ak Gümüş ..............................D5 11 Galata Bridge......................... E1 48 Ali Muhıddin Hacı Bekir........ E3 12 İstanbul University............... C3 49 Altan Şekerleme ...................C2 13 Mahmutpaşa Hamamı .........E4 50 Armine....................................D4 14 New Mosque..........................E2 51 Derviş .....................................D5 15 Nuruosmaniye Mosque........E5 Derviş 2 ........................ (see 37) 16 Rüstem Paşa Mosque ......... D2 52 Derviş 3 ..................................D4 17 Şehzade Mehmet Mosque...A4 53 Dhoku.....................................D5 18 Tombs of Süleyman and EthniCon ...................... (see 53) Roxelana ............................ C3 54 Hafız Mustafa ....................... E3 55 Haşimi Ticaret.......................D5 ú Eating (p98) 56 Iznik Classics.........................D5 19 Aynen Dürüm ........................D5 57 Koç Deri Leather...................D5 20 Bahar Restaurant .................D5 58 Kurukahveci Mehmet 21 Bena Dondurmaları ..............E5 Efendi ..................................D3 22 Bereket Döner .......................B2 59 Malatya Pazarı ...................... E3 23 Develi Baklava ...................... D2 Mehmet Kalmaz 24 Dönerci Şahin Usta...............E5 Baharat ..................... (see 67) 25 Dürümcü Raif Usta ...............E4 60 Mekhann ................................D5 Fes Cafe ....................... (see 37) Muhlis Günbattı .......... (see 27) 26 Fes Cafe .................................E5 61 Paşabahçe ............................. E5 27 Gazientep Burç Ocakbaşı ... D4 62 Sahaflar Çarşısı.....................C5 28 Hamdi Restaurant ............... D2 Serhat Geridönmez ....(see 46) 29 Havuzlu Restaurant..............D5 63 Sevan Bıçakçı........................ E5 Kokoreççi Erdinç 64 Silk & Cashmere ...................D5 Usta ...........................(see 24) 65 Silk & Cashmere ................... E5 30 Kuru Fasulyeci Erzincanlı 66 Sofa ........................................ E5 Ali Baba ............................. C3 67 Ucuzcular Baharat ............... E3 31 Mavi Haliç Pidecisi ............... D2 68 Ümit Berksoy ........................D5 32 Meşhur Dönerci Hacı 69 Vakko İndirim ........................ E3 Osman'ın Yeri .................... C4 70 Yazmacı Necdet Danış.........D4 33 Namlı ..................................... D2
34 Pak Pide & Pizza Salonu ..... D3 Ø Sports & Activities (p105) 71 Çemberlitaş Hamamı ........... E5 û Drinking & Nightlife (p101) 72 Gedikpaşa Hamamı..............D6 35 Darüzziyafe (Former Soup
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æ Top Sights (p118) 25 Bigudi ..........................................................D4 1 İstiklal Caddesi............................................C5 26 Club 17 .........................................................D4 27 Hazzo Pulo Çay Bahçesi............................ B5 æ Sights (p120) 28 Indigo ...........................................................B6 2 Akbank Art Centre......................................D4 29 Kiki................................................................ E5 3 Atatürk Cultural Centre .............................F4 30 Litera............................................................B6 4 Avrupa Pasajı...............................................B5 31 Manda Batmaz............................................ B6 5 Balık Pazarı ..................................................B5 32 MiniMüzikHol .............................................. E6 6 Çiçek Pasajı .................................................B5 Şarlo Cafe Pub.................................. (see 25) 7 Galerı Apel....................................................C6 33 Tek Yön ........................................................ E5 8 Galerı Nev ...................................................B6 34 Urban ........................................................... C5 9 Pera Museum ..............................................A6
Republic Monument.......................... (see 11) ý Entertainment (p137) 10 SALT Beyoğlu..............................................B6 35 Garajistanbul...............................................B6 11 Taksim Meydanı..........................................E3 36 Jolly Joker ................................................... C5 12 Üç Horan Ermeni Kilisesi ...........................B5 37 Munzur Cafe & Bar..................................... D5
ú Eating (p128) þ Shopping (p138) 13 Çokçok .........................................................A6 38 A La Turca ................................................... D5 14 Çukur Meyhane...........................................C5 39 Ali Muhıddin Hacı Bekir .............................D4 15 Enstitü ..........................................................A6 40 Beyoğlu Olgunlaşma Enstıtüsü ................D4 16 Hacı Abdullah ..............................................C4 41 Leyla Eski Eşya Pazarlama........................D6 17 İnci Pastanesi ..............................................D4 42 Mephisto...................................................... C5 18 Kafe Ara........................................................B6 43 Nahıl .............................................................D4 19 Kitchenette ..................................................E4 44 Petek Turşuları ........................................... B5 20 Klemuri .........................................................D5 45 Reşat Balık Market .................................... B5 21 Social............................................................D6 46 Sütte Şarküteri .......................................... B5 22 Zübeyir Ocakbaşı........................................D4 47 Tarihi Beyoğlu Ekmek Fırını ..................... B5 Üç Yıldız Şekerleme ......................... (see 46) û Drinking & Nightlife (p134)
360........................................................ (see 8) Ø Sports & Activities (p140) 23 5 Kat..............................................................E6 Istanbul Culinary Institute................ (see 15) 24 Araf ...............................................................C4
246
beyoğlu – so
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æ Top Sights (p119) 45 Dem..............................................................D4 1 İstanbul Modern.......................................... F3 46 FerahFeza.................................................... E4 47 Karabatak ................................................... E4 æ Sights (p120) 48 Leb-i Derya .................................................. D2 2 Arab Mosque ...............................................B4 Leb-i Derya Richmond..................... (see 80) 3 ARTER .......................................................... D1 49 Mavra ........................................................... D3 4 Christ Church ..............................................D3 Mikla................................................... (see 79) 5 Depo ............................................................. E3 50 Münferit ........................................................ E1 6 Elipsis Gallery ..............................................E4 NuTeras ..............................................(see 10) 7 Galata Mevlevi Museum.............................C2 51 Off Pera.........................................................C1 8 Galata Tower ...............................................C4 52 Sensus Wine Bar ........................................ C3 9 Galeri Manâ..................................................E4 53 Smyrna ......................................................... F1 10 Galerist......................................................... C1 54 Tophane Nargile Cafes ...............................F3 11 Jewish Museum of Turkey.........................C5 55 Unter ............................................................ E4 12 Kasa Galeri...................................................C4 56 White Mill ......................................................G1 13 Museum of Innocence.................................E1 X Bar................................................... (see 65) 14 Patisserie Lebon .........................................C2
15 Pera Palace Hotel ....................................... C1 ý Entertainment (p137) 16 SALT Galata.................................................C5 57 Babylon........................................................ C2 17 Schneidertempel Art Center.....................C4 Galata Mevlevi Museum .....................(see 7) 58 Nardis Jazz Club.........................................C4 ú Eating (p128) 59 Nublu İstanbul.............................................C4 18 Aheste ..........................................................D3 Salon .................................................. (see 65) 19 Antiochia......................................................C2
20 Asmalı Canım Ciğerim ............................... C1 þ Shopping (p138) 21 Asmalı Cavit................................................. C1 60 Artrium......................................................... C3 22 Cafe Privato.................................................C3 61 Arzu Kaprol ................................................. C3 23 Datlı Maya .....................................................F1 62 Berrin Akyüz.................................................G1 24 Delicatessan ................................................ C1 63 Denizler Kitabevi..........................................D1 25 Demeti.......................................................... G1 64 Hiç ................................................................ D3 26 Duble Meze Bar........................................... C1 65 İKSV Tasarım Mağazası............................. B2 27 Fürreyya Galata Balıkçısı ...........................C3 66 İroni ..............................................................C4 28 Gram.............................................................C2 67 İstanbul Kitapçısı .........................................D1 29 Helvetia Lokanta .........................................C2 68 İstanbul Modern Gift Shop.........................F3 30 House Cafe ..................................................C2 69 La Cave Wine Shop ..................................... F1 31 İstanbul Modern Cafe/Restaurant........... F3 70 Lale Plak....................................................... C2 32 Jash............................................................... G1 71 Mariposa.......................................................G1 33 Journey .........................................................F1 72 Old Sandal ................................................... C3 34 Kahve 6 .........................................................F1 73 Paşabahçe....................................................D1 35 Karaköy Güllüoğlu ......................................D5 74 Selda Okutan .............................................. E4 36 Karaköy Lokantası......................................E4 75 Tezgah Alley.................................................C1 37 Kiva Han .......................................................C3
38 Lokanta Maya..............................................E4 Ø Sports & Activities (p140) 39 Meze by Lemon Tree.................................. C1 76 Kılıç Ali Paşa Hamamı ................................ E3 40 Midpoint ....................................................... D1
Mikla ................................................... (see 79) ÿ Sleeping (p176) 41 Namlı ............................................................D5 77 Galateia Residence..................................... D2 42 Sofyalı 9 .......................................................C2 78 Has Han Galata...........................................C4 43 Tarihi Karaköy Balık Lokantası .................C5 79 Marmara Pera..............................................C1 80 Richmond Hotel.......................................... C2 û Drinking & Nightlife (p134) 81 TomTom Suites ...........................................D1 44 Atölye Kuledıbı ............................................C4 82 Vault Karaköy.............................................. C5 Baylo...................................................(see 28) 83 Witt Istanbul Hotel ......................................F2 Cihangir 21.........................................(see 33) 84 World House Hostel ................................... C3
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Eating (p151)
2 B
aylan Pastanesi.....................................E1
3 Ç
iya Sofrası..............................................E2
4 Etabal.........................................................E1
5 K
adı Nım
et Balıkçılık................................E1
û D
rinking & N
ightlife (p151)
6 Fazıl B
ey....................................................E1
7 Karga B
ar.................................................D4
ý Entertainm
ent (p153)
8 S
üreyya Opera H
ouse............................D
3 þ
Shopping (p153)
9 A
li Muhiddin H
acı Bekir..........................D
1
10 M
ephisto..................................................D
1
11 Mesut G
üneş............................................E1
12 S
oy............................................................C4
ÿ Sleeping
(p177)
13 Hush M
oda...............................................E2
253
karİ
ye m
useu
m
The voyage of the Virgin to Bethlehem & the dream of Joseph
The census held for the enrolment for taxation & registration of Mary & Joseph in the presence of Cyrenius, Governor of Syria
Jesus going with Mary & Joseph to Jerusalem
Remains of mosaics – Jesus among the doctors in the temple
St TrachosSt AndronikusThe birth of JesusThe return of the Virgin Mary with JesusThe attempts of Satan to deceive JesusSt GeorgiosSt DemetriusJesus & the inscription ‘the dwelling-place
of the living’The prayer of the Virgin & the attendant
angelsThe wedding at Cana & the miraclesDepiction of the saintsDepiction of the saintsThe Magi on their way to Jerusalem riding
on horseback & the three Magi in audience with King Herod
Elizabeth & John the Baptist running away from a pursuing soldier
Remains of mosaicsDepiction of the saintsDepiction of the saintsThe scene of King Herod’s investigation & a
guard standingThe mourning mothersNo mosaics leftA decorative medallionThe meeting of Jesus with the Samaritan
woman at the wellThe healing of a paralysed person by JesusKing Herod giving the order for the
massacre of the innocents & the execution thereof
Remains of mosaicsThe healing by Jesus of a young man with
an injured armThe healing by Jesus of leprous manTwenty-four of the early ancestors of Jesus
(Genealogy of Christ)The healing by Jesus of a woman asking for
the restoration of her healthThe healing by Jesus of the mother-in-law
of St PeterThe healing by Jesus of a deaf person
1
2
3
4
5A5B
678
9A9B10
11
1213A13B
14
15
1617A17B
18
19202122
2324
2526A
26B27
28
29
30
æMosaics
69 7256
7170
66
677576
7868
7374
77
65 6463 62 59 55 54
61
60 57
58
53
5251
50B
50C
36
34
38
39 40
353741B 41A
4442
43
45B 45A
50A4746
48
49A49B32 29
3327
31
30 2826A26B
25
23 24
21
22
20
19 18
17A17B
1516
14
13A13B
1112
10
9A9B8
67
5B 5A
24
31
G
H
I
J
Annex
Apse
PF K U O NL
M
E
D
C
B
A
Exit
Entrance
Nave
OuterNarthex
InnerNarthex
Parecclesion
KARİYE MUSEUM
254
karİye museum
Dispersion of good health by Jesus to the people
The healing by Jesus of two blind menThe Khalke Jesus & the praying VirginMary and the Baby Jesus surrounded by
her ancestorsJoachim in the mountains praying to have a
childNo mosaics leftThe breaking of the good news of the birth
of Jesus to Mary – The AnnunciationThe chief priest Zacchariah judging the
VirginMary & Joseph bidding each other farewellThe breaking of the good news of the birth
of Mary to AnneThe meeting of Anne & JoachimJoseph bringing the Virgin into his houseMary in the arms of Anne & Joachim & the
blessing by the priestsGiving of the stick with young shoots
indicating Joseph as Mary’s fiancéThe birth of the Virgin MaryThe first seven steps of the Virgin & below,
St PeterThe prayer of the chief priest Zacchariah in
front of the 12 sticksThe presentation of Mary (age three) to the
temple by her parentsThe Virgin taking the skeins of wool to
weave the veil for the templeTheodore Metochites presenting a small
model of the church to JesusThe feeding of the Virgin by an angel &
below, St PeterRemains of mosaics – Directives given to
the Virgin at the templeThe Assumption of the VirginMary and the Baby JesusJesus in a standing posture, holding the
Bible in his hand
The AnastasisThe Church fathersThe raising (resurrection of the widow's
son)The healing of the daughter of JairusThe Virgin ElousaThe Last JudgementAbraham & the beggar Lazarus on his lapSt GeorgeRich man burning in Hell's fireThose entering Heaven & the Angel
Seraphim with the semi-nude good thiefDepiction of Andronikus II & his family &
the inscription & depiction above of Makarios Tornikes & his wife Eugenia
The Bearing of the Ark of the CovenantSt DemetriusSt Theodore TiroMary & child Jesus with the 12 attending
angelsFour Gospel Writers (Hymnographers): St
CosmosFour Gospel Writers (Hymnographers): St
John of DamasceneFour Gospel Writers (Hymnographers): St
TheophanesFour Gospel Writers (Hymnographers): St
JosephSt Theodore StratelatesKing Solomon & the IsraelitesPlacement into the temple of the Ark of the
CovenantThe combat of an angel with the Asurians in
the outskirts of JerusalemSt Procopios, St Sabas StratelatesMoses in the bushesJacob's ladder & the angelsAaron & his sons carrying votive offerings,
in front of the altarSt Samonas & Guiras
31
323334
35
3637
38
3940
41A41B
42
43
4445A
45B
46
47
48
49A
49B
50A50B50C
515253
54555657585960
61
62636465
66
67
68
69
707172
73
74757677
78
æ Frescoes
255
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