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Going toe-to-toe with any reasonable size shallow water trout is never easy, and the first moments of the fight are critical. If you can’t keep the fish’s head free from its rocky, razor sharp hidey-hole, then the chances of landing it are slim.

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There’s a lot more to catching coral trout than deep reef, big hooks and heavy line. Around the shallow island flats, bommies and headlands, it requires a seemingly contradictory mix of finesse and brutal stopping power, so anglers need to be on their toes. Lee Brake explains.

T hey are magnificent fish; their colours are breathtaking, they hit a lure like it’s the last coldie in the fridge, and their fighting style can best be

described as brutal. Oh, and apparently they aren’t bad chewing either... I am, of course, talking about the coral trout.

Now, the odd thing about trout is that many anglers, especially small boat operators, put them on a pedestal. They think they are reserved for offshore anglers who can afford to burn a week’s wages on a trip to the reef, and use big rods, big reels and big bait to skull drag these fish off the bottom and into their eskies.

If that’s something you do, well fine, but what I plan to demonstrate over these next few pages is that coral trout are not just an offshore, deepwater reef species. Chasing trout along shallow island flats, around bommies, along the dropoffs of a rocky headland and even amongst the rocky walls of a marina is not only productive, but about as much fun as you can have with your pants on. I won’t promise you’ll bag out and fill an esky, but if you’re a sporting kind of chap and like the idea of white-knuckle battles with single-minded, powerful foes amongst the backdrop of pristine islands and ruggedly beautiful coastal stretches, then this could be for you. Oh, and whether you’re a bait soaker or a lure flicker, it matters not one brass razoo, as trout will inhale either with gusto!

Finding Shallow Water TroutSuccessfully targeting coral trout is about finding a combination of environmental factors: structure, current, bait, and relatively clean water. You can have water that’s the shimmering hue of a Coober Pedy opal and a brilliant island-fringing reef, but if the water isn’t moving, then you can bet the trout won’t be either.

These are not proactive fish; they’re reactive. A trout waits for its prey to come to it. It will, however, put itself in the best possible spot to intercept that prey, usually by ambush. Like the outlaws of legends and times gone by, this fish is a master of concealment. It loves hiding behind a ledge, a piece of coral or in the nook of a rocky boulder before charging out to attack unwary prey.

With this in mind, the thinking angler needs to be ready to tick those boxes when looking for a possible trout location. Timing plays a big role too, and depending on the spot, success can be

Just check out how the mid-morning sunlight illuminates the colours on this trout!66

dependent on arriving when there is sufficient run in the tide to get the fish fired up, but not so much that the location is unfishable. Key examples of this include isolated bommies, steep rocky dropoffs along headlands or island faces, and the exposed points of islands. If you can get to these spots just as the tide kicks, you’ll

often be able to use minimal weight to give the bait or lures the realism needed to attract a wary trout waiting in ambush. Better yet, such places often hold concentrations of trout and other hard-fighting species like sweetlip, parrotfish, cod and trevally. However, as the tide begins to flood, you’re left needing more and more weight until not only is there a massive bow in the line robbing you of sensitivity, but the lure or bait is

so cumbersome it might as well be sitting under a house brick.

When this becomes the case, an angler needs to keep the old thinking cap on. Obviously those little bait fish won’t be inclined to be swept around waiting for every predator under the waves to pick them off — they’ll

look for shelter and the coral trout will follow. You have a few options here: firstly, the shallow rocky flats tucked away in the bays of offshore islands; secondly, the fringing reefs that can often be found on the sheltered side of islands and spits of foreshore; and, lastly, move around and fish the isolated points and bommies from their sheltered side.

To explain further, the rocky flats and

shallow reefs are excellent locations for bait to escape to once the tide gets too much run in it, and at high tide they can push right up to feast on micro organisms and the like made accessible by the rising tide. They also have a host of hiding places in the form of rocks, rubble and coral. The coral trout, mind you, is an awesome predator and it will move up into this shallow water to lay new ambushes. It’ll find somewhere with some movement in the water, usually around the edge of a bay, against a slight dropoff, behind an exposed rock or larger piece of coral and will wait for the bait to come past it once more. For lure flickers, this represents an exciting and productive opportunity, but we’ll

If the water isn’t moving, then you can bet the trout won’t be either.

Dawn is the ideal time to tangle with trout, as they often feed voraciously for the first hour after sunrise. Here, Graham Brake displays a healthy specimen taken from a rocky point off Brampton Island in north Queensland.

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get to that shortly.The other option is the sheltered side

of more exposed structure. This can be an interesting option, as it once again depends on the list of ingredients above, but because current has been removed from the equation by fishing what is effectively a backwater, the other elements become far more important. If there’s no bait showing, forget it. Precise anchoring is also essential. You’ll see the telltale lines of current ripping around the edge of the rock or point. The trout will be focused on this, as it is

the bait highway to and past the sheltered water. As an angler you’ll want to be slowly wafting baits or lures right down on the edge of this fast flowing water so that you’re fishing where there’s still enough residual current to keep the trout feeding, but not too much as to grab your line and send it headed for Antarctica. It’s a fine line, but get it right and you can latch onto some beauties.

Lastly, while we are on the topic, trout, like most fish, bite exceedingly well at dawn and dusk and will also feed readily throughout the day, especially around the turn of the tide. They do not, however, seem to be a nocturnal feeder. I’m fairly certain I’ve never seen a trout caught once the sun has fully set, so my advice is to make an early start and aim to be fishing on dawn.

Choosing a LureTrout are amongst the ocean’s hardest hitters and to catch them on lures, be they hard or soft, is a

real treat. So how do you go about it? Well, the good news is you don’t need a big boat. Heck, I’ve caught trout around a nearby marina’s rock wall just by flicking lightly-weighted plastics at key points like the ones outlined above. What you do need though, is a bit of a grasp of the

finesse needed, or at least the will to learn. Being ambush predators living in fairly

clean water, shallow water trout aren’t easy to fool. They can be quite lazy as well. You need to please them and tease them. Firstly, let’s talk soft plastics, as that’s the way many anglers are leaning these days and is also my preference.

The key with softies has nothing to do with the plastic; it’s all about the jig head. A perfectly weighted plastic will give you excellent sensitivity, will waft through the water, and jerk and twitch in response to the slightest of rod movement. This means it will not only spend the maximum possible time on the trout’s radar, but also look erratic and wounded, and thus stand out from the crowd of real bait. Now, this can be easier said than done...

When working those shallow flats and rocky reefs, the aim should be to cover plenty of ground, so casting distance is important. You also need a plastic that will flutter down amongst the structure, not drop like a stone into every crevice. If working a clean, clear flat where you can see structure clearly, a light jig head around 3.5g (1/8oz) with a 5/0 hook is ideal. On the other hand, if you’re working slightly deeper rocks or a really reefy flat where you can’t see the bottom or the current makes it impossible to control where the jig will drop, then it’s better to give that plastic more of a

They do not, however, seem to be a nocturnal feeder.

An assortment of plastics that are good for shallow water trout. The heavier Nitro jig head and a 12.5cm Zman StreakZ are ideal for working deeper dropoffs and isolated bommies.

A very nice coral trout taken on a shallow reef flat. The author was working a 10cm Gulp Minnow on a light jig head so that the lure fluttered down amongst the reef without snagging.

snag-resistant fitting. You can use a weighted worm hook rig for this, with the TT Snake Heads that effectively combine a worm hook with a weighted head being a great option. Otherwise, you can just rig a small ball sinker forward of the hook Texas style.

As for the plastics themselves, trout really love the darting, erratic action of jerk shads. I’ve found that along shallow flats my most productive models have been 13cm (5in) Z-Man StreakZ in pink, 13cm Nuclear Chicken coloured Gulp Crazy Legs Jerk Shads, and the 10cm (4in) Gulp Minnow.

If the deeper bommies and rocky points are more your target, then anything up to a 28g (1oz) head and a 7/0 hook can be used. I like a bigger plastic around that 18cm (7in) size along the deeper points and bommies, as the increase in depth and current means that the lure usually has less time in the strike zone, so a bigger profile makes it stand out better and provokes more strikes. It tends to ‘match the hatch’ too, as the usual prey for trout around these bommies include big herring, small wrasse, cod and other juvenile fish rather than the smaller hardiheads that cling to the flats.

Plastics aren’t the only way of luring trout. Going hard is also an option. This is especially true over shallower, less current-affected flats, as an angler can cast diving minnows around likely-looking ambush points and then twitch them down. A lure with a big bib that dives quickly and is able to fend off rocks is needed — something like an RMG Poltergeist, Killalure Flatz Rat, or a Reidy’s Taipan.

TechniqueTechnique varies depending on where you’re fishing, but I tend to work my plastics in one of two ways. If the water is clean and shallow enough that I can see the structure clearly, I’ll work my plastics to suit. For example, while sneaking along with the electric, I’ll cast up into the shallows of a rocky bay and keep my rod tip high, while continuously winding and twitching the plastic. This will make the lure dart from side to side while keeping the hook upwards and away from the snags.

As the water deepens, I’ll start to add pauses to the retrieve to allow the plastic to sink to the required depth. If there’s a big rock, a piece of coral, or a dropoff, I’ll twitch the plastic up over the structure and then time my pause to allow it to flutter down the other side. This is an excellent way to simulate a wounded baitfish working its way across the trout’s ambush zone! This same technique can be applied when using

A pair of effective trout lures for working shallow to mid-depth fringing reef and rocky flats. The most effective lures can be pulled down a few metres, but then paused and slowly worked in order to keep above any snags.

Here’s an unusual occurrence. The author lands a nice trout (and some other reefies) on a bait jig.

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Shallow rocky flats and reef are idea places to prospect for roaming trout. Use medium weighted spin gear to fling soft plastics and even walk-the-dog style stick baits well away from the boat to avoid spooking wary fish.

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Look into my eyes! This Common trout (denoted by its small spots) wolfed down the author’s fish wing offering. Trout are fierce opportunistic competitors in their domain.

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hard body lures, except that rather than allowing the plastic to sink, the angler should rip the rod tip downwards to crank the lure down dropoffs and ledges, and then allow it to float up with regular pauses over the shallows. With both lure styles, just be sure you’re ready for the strike! I’ll tell you why shortly.

If you can’t see the structure, whether it’s deeper fringing reef, a point or bommie, the retrieve changes to one based more on feel than sight. I like what is simply a ‘three twitches then pause’ retrieve that relies on the angler being able to feel when the plastic has touched down on the bottom. In short, you either cast or freespool the lure towards the target area, wait until it touches down, and then give the lure three fairly hard twitches. You want it to visibly leap up off the bottom. After each twitch, pause only long enough to take a wind on the handle, and then after the third twitch, freespool the lure to allow it to flutter back into the strike zone. Just be sure to watch the line as it sinks, because the hard twitches often get the fish’s attention, but it’s on the flutter that they strike!

Tackle Now, let me tell you about how a coral trout strikes. I mentioned that they are masters of the

ambush, but they go one step further. They will actually swim out and hit their prey as they are turning to head back to their lair. This means that as you set the hook, the fish is already heading for the safety of a rocky crevice or over a sharp-edged dropoff.

So what does this mean for tackle options? Well, to put it simply, you need to tread a fine line between finesse and stopping power. I prefer to go a little on the lighter side when working shallow flats, as I’m fishing smaller lures and require a softer tip to cast them, but 3-5kg is probably a minimum. Shorter rods will also be preferable with 2m (6’6”) being the longest advisable. This is because you need quick access to stopping power and if you have to wait for a longer rod to load up, it’s yielding valuable line to the fish. My combos for the flats include a 1.8m 3-5kg LJ Customs spin stick (actually designed as a kayak rod), coupled with a 3000 size spin reel and 7kg braid. I also use a 1.9m 5-8kg G.Loomis with a 200 size baitcaster and 15kg braid. Leader is usually 30kg, with high abrasion resistance essential.

A better class of trout is likely to be found around deeper bommies and points, so finesse comes second behind keeping it out of its hole, possibly against the current. Here I use an ACM

custom blank rated at around 12kg. It’s medium tapered, but has a sensitive tip that works a large plastic exceedingly well. On this is a Shimano Calcutta 400 fitted with a Calcutta 700 handle to provide extra torque. It’s running 24kg braid and 40kg leader.

But Bait, There’s More! Alright, so maybe lures aren’t your thing. That’s fine, but if you skipped over that part then it’s best you go back and read it now, because the same principles apply when fishing with bait: finesse, location, timing and presentation.

Obviously you’re not going to sneak along with an electric motor and cast baits for trout on the shallows, though you might pick the corner of a bay or the dropoff of a fringing reef, but you are likely to target points and bommies with well-presented natural bait. The key here is much as it was with plastics — the lightest lead you can get away with to create the most realistic offering possible. Let’s have a look at what makes a good trout rig.

This trout is showing signs of a bust up against the reef. Trout tend to mill in their favourite haunts untill the opportune moment to strike at a passing lure or bait. Photo: Nick Thake

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Presentation is Paramount

Here’s the rig: 15-24kg braid joined to a swivel via a double (spider hitch or Bimini twist) and a cat’s paw knot, followed by 40kg leader (I like Black Magic) and then a running bean sinker and an 8/0 octopus hook. Two things are worth noting: firstly, use a bean sinker over a ball, as it’s less likely to roll into the nearest crevice, and secondly, pick the best quality hooks possible. Blunt hooks will substantially reduce the hookup rate. My rule is that if you can’t easily push it through the skin of a strip bait, then it isn’t easily going to pierce the fish either. Also, go over the rig after each fish, as trout are notorious for making you pay for a “She’ll be right” attitude. Any nicks in the leader? Replace it. Swivel looks rusty? Replace it. Hooks bent? (it happens). Replace it. Get the picture? Good!

Next is the bait, and this is an area where even long-time bait fishos can improve on. A well-rigged bait will be the difference between attracting swarms of pickers or a gut busting, rod straining, whoop-inducing snodger of a trout. A good bait has a few key ingredients: colour, longevity, hook exposure and movement. How you rig it plays a big role in this.

For example, if you take a strip of hussar fillet with the tail attached and push the hook through it over and over until it looks like a kebab, you’re left with an unattractive meaty blob. If you push the hook through the narrow end, pull it through, hook it through the opposite side and then hold it all straight with

a loop of leader, then you have something very different. This bait will flutter down as it sinks (movement), the radiant skin side will flash and stay visible (colour), the point of the hook will be exposed so that a good strike will set it (exposure), and thanks to the loop around the tail, it will stay attached amongst a storm of little bites (longevity). This same rig can be used for prawns, squid and whole fish like herring and pilchards. Alternatively, a twin hook gang can be used, with both hooks pushed into the flesh and a hitch around the tail.

Going back to the ingredients of a good

trout bait, it must be acknowledged that some baits really are trout lollies. Here are my personal favourites: big red cooked prawns, whole ocean herring or bony bream, the wings (rib cage) of a hussar or stripey with the pectoral fins attached, and a strip bait of the same species with the tail left on to flap in the current.

TechniqueLearning how to catch trout on bait in

shallow water can be a real art that only practice can perfect. Start by anchoring so you can drop the line back towards where you think the trout

Fish wings are about the ultimate trout bait. They have colour, movement and can outlast a swarm of pickers. Jason Horton rigged this one with an 8/0 octopus hook that had plenty of stinging power.

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might be holding, then freespool until hitting the bottom. If you’ve got the right amount of lead on, then it will be necessary to let out short lengths of line from time to time so that the hook and sinker bounces slowly, but naturally along the bottom. This will cover plenty of ground and the bait will be more likely to drift into a trout’s ambush zone.

Trout usually bite in one of two ways. They can hit a bait on the fly and give no prior warning. Up on the surface, the rod will just load up and line will head for the bottom — the classic trout strike while turning. Or they can be far subtler. All you’ll feel is a tightening of the line and a slow increase in weight. What’s happening here is that the trout is just cruising around its patch of bottom, and pretty much picks up the bait as it moves through. As soon as it feels any weight, it will either spit the bait or, if the hook sets, head for the safety of the nearest nook or cranny. Strike too soon and it will spit; wait too long and you’ll be bricked or cut off. It’s a fine line that takes practice to get a feel for.

The key is that when you do strike, fully commit. Lower the rod tip to the water as soon as the weight comes on, and maybe even give a short length of line, but then when you do strike, strike hard by lifting the tip to about two o’clock or 45 degrees in one hard and fast motion. Don’t lift the rod any higher, as this will give the fish slack line as you lower it to take a wind. A good hard strike will have the double advantage of sinking the hook nice and deep as well as turning the trout’s head upwards and away from the structure. From there, it’s up to you and your gear.

The GearThe gear I use for bait fishing for trout is similar

to what I use for working larger plastics around bommies and points. However, I always carry a heavier combo with a short, no-nonsense boat rod, usually at least 15kg, with 24kg braid on a jigging style reel like a Daiwa Saltist. This normally comes out if I’ve been busted off a couple of times and need to up the ante, or am planning to put a big bait like a livie or a whole side of hussar out to tempt a big trout.

Trout Are Within Your GraspSo folks, that’s the rundown. You don’t need a

big boat to catch coral trout and you most certainly do not need to take out a second mortgage to pay for the fuel! All you need is structure, clean water, a bit of current and a ‘come here’ attitude once hooked up. To put this into perspective, areas in north Queensland like Cape Hillsborough, the Whitsundays and just about any marina wall or rocky headland contain these ingredients at times. There are plenty of places around our glorious coastline where wetting a line can yield these tasty terrors, so whether you’re on foot, in a kayak, a tinnie or a 5m runabout, it matters not, just put your thinking cap on and have a crack.

Steep dropoffs are real trout havens. They allow plenty of current, and bait, to channel past and the fish will often hang around their base or in any hollow or crevice waiting to snack on careless passers by.

Get to the point! When chasing coral trout around islands or headlands, it’s hard to ignore a prominent point. By its very nature, a point has a dropoff on each side and provides a natural ledge behind which a trout can lie in wait.

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