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Riccardo Marchesi
TEXE SRL – Plug and Wear
Introduction to textile technology
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Textile Technology
Industrial process able to transform fibers into (garments)
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Clothing
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Technical textiles
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Timeline
26000
5500 500-300
27 0 467
100-1300
467
1200-1400
1500-1700
18th-19th present
Skins sewn together
Linen discovered in Egypt
Silk discovered in China
New linen designs in Rome
Introduction of dye
Intricate weaves
Strong colors
Dark colors
Experimentswith new patterns
Bold colors and abstraction
Knife sheath
Jute sacksChainmail Smart Fabrics
E-Textiles
Clothing
Technical textilesAutomobileseat belts
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50 productions steps
fiber spinning
weaving
knitting
dyeing cutting sewingfinishing
embroidery
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Spinning
fiber spinning
weaving
knitting
dyeing cutting sewingfinishing
printingembroidery
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Spinning
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Spinning
fiber spinning
weaving
knitting
dyeing cutting sewingfinishing
printingembroidery
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Spinning
fiber spinning
weaving
knitting
dyeing cutting sewingfinishing
printingembroidery
- Texturizing: volume increase
- Stretch broken yarn: higher strenght
- Twisting: bigger diameter
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Weaving preparation
fiber spinning
weaving
knitting
dyeing cutting sewingfinishing
printingembroidery
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Weaving
fiber spinning
weaving
knitting
dyeing cutting sewingfinishing
printingembroidery
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Weaving
fiber spinning
weaving
knitting
dyeing cutting sewingfinishing
printingembroidery
- Shuttle looms: UK, 1785 – low production, noise- Rapier looms: very wide fabrics. Single or double rapier- Projectile looms: high production- Air jet looms: limited in width- Water looms: fastest, 700 picks/min for 190 cm, drying unit
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Knitting
fiber spinning
weaving
knitting
dyeing cutting sewingfinishing
printingembroidery
Weft Warp
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Knitting
fiber spinning
weaving
knitting
dyeing cutting sewingfinishing
printingembroidery
Weft Warp
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Knitted or woven?
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Knitted or woven?
stretchable wrinkles
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Knitting Weaving
Knitted fabrics are produced by set of connected loops from a series of yarns
Woven fabrics are produced by interlacing two sets of yarns
One set of yarns needed Two sets of yarn is used
Do not require sizing (suggested) Sizing is required before weaving
Yarn preparation is not so necessary Yarn preparation is a must
Production capacity of knitting is more Production capacity is less than knitting
Production cost of knitting is less than weaving Production costs of weaving is higher than knitting
About 52% fabrics are produced by knitting technology
About 48% fabrics are produced by knitting technology
Knitting is done by loop formation Weaving is done by shade formation
Elastic properties of the knit fabrics are higher than woven fabrics
Elastic properties of woven fabrics are less than knitted fabrics
Dimensional stability is lower than woven fabrics Dimensional stability is higher than knitted fabric
Is it easier to make 3D fabrics 3D fabrics are more difficult to produce
It is easier to make high volume fabrics Woven fabrics are more compact
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Non wovens
fiber spinning
weaving
knitting
dyeing cutting sewingfinishing
printingembroidery
fabric-like material made from long fibers, bonded together by chemical, mechanical, heat or solvent treatment (felt, baby diapers)
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Dyeing
fiber spinning
weaving
knitting
dyeing cutting sewingfinishing
printingembroidery
- Cone dyeing: the yarn is dyed on cones
- Piece dyeing: the fabric is sewn in a loop and dyed.
- Garment dyeing: finished garments are dyed
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Cone dyeing
fiber spinning
weaving
knitting
dyeing cutting sewingfinishing
printingembroidery
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Piece dyeing
fiber spinning
weaving
knitting
dyeing cutting sewingfinishing
printingembroidery
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Garment dyeing
fiber spinning
weaving
knitting
dyeing cutting sewingfinishing
printingembroidery
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Finishing
fiber spinning
weaving
knitting
dyeing cutting sewingfinishing
printingembroidery
A group of physical and mechanical processes to increase the different properties of textile materials to render textile goods fit for their end-use.- improving appearance and touch- improving wearing qualities (shrink resistant, ..)- increasing fabric weight - cover fabric faults- to make garments hold their shape
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fiber spinning
weaving
knitting
dyeing cutting sewingfinishing
printingembroidery
Woven fabrics
Calendering: heat + pressure Stentering: weft traction Sanforizing: to avoid shrinkageRaising: hairy surface HydroextractorSteamer: to fix dyes
Knitted fabrics
For Open fabric: Slitting Stentering CompactingFor Tube fabric: Dewatering Drying Tube compacting
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fiber spinning
weaving
knitting
dyeing cutting sewingfinishing
printingembroidery
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Cutting
fiber spinning
weaving
knitting
dyeing cutting sewingfinishing
printingembroidery
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Sewing
fiber spinning
weaving
knitting
dyeing cutting sewingfinishing
printingembroidery
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Digital printing
fiber spinning
weaving
knitting
dyeing cutting sewingfinishing
printingembroidery
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Screen printing
fiber spinning
weaving
knitting
dyeing cutting sewingfinishing
printingembroidery
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Printed circuits
- Connections - Heat generation
- Ink with silver or carbon particles- Advantages: small circuits- Limitations: how to solder components?
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Embroidery
fiber spinning
weaving
knitting
dyeing cutting sewingfinishing
printingembroidery
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Embroidery
fiber spinning
weaving
knitting
dyeing cutting sewingfinishing
printingembroidery
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The world clothing and textile industry (clothing, textiles, footwear and luxury goods) reached almost $2,560 trillion in 2010.
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Planet Money – How a T-shirt is made
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r2Zod7Sd3rQ&list=PLp-
wXwmbv3z8aAJrhyttiqPMiKy0WVJym
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Thank you!
Riccardo [email protected]@plugandwearwww.plugandwear.comwww.ricardomarchesi.com
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for text and images ©All rights reserved the teaching material is intended for personal use of the course participants and cannot be duplicated or disclosed for other purposes
