Introduction to Fabric and Weaving

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Module: Textile ScienceLecture: Introduction to Fabric and Weaving

Md. Masud Rana

Assistant Professor, Dpt. of Textile Engg

BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology

M.Rana 1Textile Science


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Definition and classification fabrics Yarn Preparation For Weaving Process

Weaving Principles

Basic Mechanism of Warp & Cloth Control

Weaving Structure

Woven Fabric Analysis


Content


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Fabric or cloth is a flexible artificial material which is made by

weaving or knitting from yarn, although non-woven fabrics aremade by bonding or felting fibres together. A fabric's

appearance, properties and end use can be affected by the

way it was constructed


Fabrics:

Woven fabrics Knitted fabrics Non woven fabrics


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Woven Fabric

M.Rana Textile Science 4

A woven fabric consists of warp and

weft yarns which are interlaced each

other at right angle.

The process of converting a set of yarns

into fabric in a loom is called weaving.


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Knitted Fabric


Weft-knitted fabric is made by interlopingtogether long lengths of yarn.

It can be made by hand or machine.

The yarn runs in rows or column across the

fabric.

The fabric is stretchy and comfortable and isused for socks, T-shirts and jumpers.

Weft knitted FabricWarp knitted Fabric


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Non-Woven Fabric


Nonwoven fabrics are made from webs of fibres (mostly long

synthetic fibres) bonded together by heat, chemical, mechanicalheat or adhesives.

Non-woven fabrics are cheap to produce but not as strong as

woven or knitted fabrics.

They are easy to sew, crease resistant, do not fray and are stable

when washing and dry cleaning

HygieneBaby diapersFeminine hygiene

Adult incontinence products

WipesDomesticTechnical

FiltersGeotextilesCarpet backing

Composites

Applications


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Woven fabric:


On the basis of manufacturing process woven fabrics may be

classified as:

1. Solid Dyed Fabric: It is woven with the greige yarn received fromspinning. After weaving the fabric is dyed or printed and finished as

required.

2. Yarn Dyed Fabric: The yarn received from spinning is dyed first inthe yarn form.Then weaving is carried out with the colored yarn.

Then the fabric is finished as required.It may be three types:

a. Stripe Fabric: When colored pattern is found only warp directionb. Cross-Over Fabric: When colored pattern is found only weft

direction

c. Check Fabric: When colored pattern is found in both warp anddirection


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Woven fabric:

Check Fabric Stripe Fabric

Cross-Over Fabric


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Weaving flow chart (Solid dyed fabric):



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Weaving flow chart (Yarn dyed fabric):



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Yarn Preparation Process Diagram

WARP YARN, WEFT YARN

1.0 WARPING

2.0 SIZING

3.0 DRAW-IN / TYING-IN

WEAVING



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1.0 WARPING

The warping process transfers the yarn from

multiple packages to a section beam.

To produce a quality beam suitable for weaving, the

following must be accomplished:

1) no lint, fly, wild yarn

2) no high or low selvage

3) maintain warper speed

4) maintain braking systems

5) no crossed or loose ends6) uniform tension across beam

7) uniform tension beam to beam

8) smooth section beams, rollers



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creel

warpers beamM.Rana 13Textile Science


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Application of sizing chemical to yarns

The purposes of sizing process are :

1) To reduce the yarn hairiness that would interfere with theweaving process.

2) To protect the yarn from various yarn-to-yarn and

yarn-to-loom abrasion.

3) To increase the strength of the yarn

2.0 SIZING



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Schematic of a simple sizing configuration



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Entering of yarns from a new warp into the weaving elements ofa weaving machine (drop wires, healds, and reed) when staringup a new fabric style.

Drop wires Healds Reed

3.0 DRAWING-IN



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The passage of the warp through a loom



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Tying-in the new warp ends to the depleted warp is done when a newpattern is not required.

3.0 TYING-IN



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Weaving Principles

Weaving means to make cloth

and other objects. Threads or

strands of material are passed

under and over each other.

Like this



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In order to interlace warp and weft threads to produce fabric on anytype of weaving machine, three operations are necessary :

A) Shedding

Separating the warp threads, which run down the fabric into twolayers to form a tunnel known as the shed

B) Picking

Passing the weft thread, which traverses across the fabric, throughthe shed

C) Beating-up

Pushing the newly inserted length of weft, known as the pick, intothe already woven fabric at a point known as the fell



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Shedding



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A. Shedding occurs here

Shedding is the lifting of

some of the warp yarns, so

that the warp is divided into2 sheets. This creates an

opening (a shed) between

them for the weft carrier to

pass through.

B. Picking

The weft yarn taken from

one side of the warp

through the shed.

C. Beating-up

The inserted pick is

consolidated or beaten-up

into the fabric when the

new pick is pushed into thecloth-fell by the reed.



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Warp control (or let-off)

This motion delivers warp to the weaving area at the required

rate and at a suitable constant tension by unwinding it from a

flanged tube known as the weavers beam

Basic Mechanism of Warp & Weft Control

Cloth control (or take-up)

This motion withdraws

fabric from the

weaving area at the

constant rate that willgive the required pick-

spacing and then

winds it onto a roller



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Methods of weft insertion :

Shuttle

single or multiple grippers or projectiles

Rapiers

Needles

fluid jet, water jet, or air jet

various other method

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/91/Shuttle_with_bobin.jpg


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Shedding System Method:

Crank

Cam

Dobby

Jacquard

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/41/Nockenwelle_ani.gif


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Common Weaving Structure

Plain Weave

The simplest of the weaves and the most common

Consists of interlacing warp and filling yarns in a pattern of overone and under one.

Plain-weave is strong and hardwearing, so it's used for fashion and

furnishing fabrics.

Balanced weave

Plain weave Rib weaves

Basket weaves



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Twill Weave


In twill-weave fabric the crossings of weft and warp are offset to give

a diagonal pattern on the fabric surface. It's strong, drapes well andis used for jeans, jackets and curtains.


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Satin Weave


In satin-weave fabric there is a complex arrangement of warp and

weft threads, which allows longer float threads either across the warpor the weft. The long floats mean the light falling on the yarn doesn't

scatter and break up, like on a plain-weave.

The reflected light creates a smooth, lustrous (shiny) surface

commonly called satin.

The reverse side is invariably dull and non-shiny.

Satin Weave


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Satin Weave

Warp faced satin weave

filling faced satin weave


Documents

Introduction to Fabric and Weaving