Introduction to Introduction to Cosmetic Science - TestingCosmetic Science - Testing

Brain Publishing 2011

How cosmetic productsHow cosmetic productsAre testedAre tested

IntroductionIntroduction

Objective : To provide key background Objective : To provide key background information about the different types of lab information about the different types of lab testing of cosmetic productstesting of cosmetic products

4 Types of Cosmetic Testing4 Types of Cosmetic Testing

1. QA/QC tests1. QA/QC tests2. Stability testing2. Stability testing3. Safety testing3. Safety testing4. Performance testing4. Performance testing

QC / QA testingQC / QA testing

Ensure product qualityEnsure product qualityIncoming raw materialsIncoming raw materialsOutgoing finished productsOutgoing finished products

QC / QA testingQC / QA testing

Mix of sensory & analytical testsMix of sensory & analytical testsChemical evaluationsChemical evaluationsSensory evaluationsSensory evaluations

Standard testsStandard testsVisual inspectionVisual inspectionOdor Odor pHpHViscosityViscosity

What is stability testing?What is stability testing?

Predictive test Predictive test Determine product longevityDetermine product longevity

AestheticsAesthetics FunctionalFunctional Microbial qualityMicrobial quality Package compatibilityPackage compatibility

Cosmetic StandardsCosmetic Standards No specific No specific

requirementsrequirements Defined by Defined by

manufacturermanufacturer ReasonableReasonable EfficientEfficient

Must document Must document what is donewhat is done

General GuidelinesGeneral Guidelines

Type ofPackaging

StorageConditions

TestingSchedule

More GuidelinesMore Guidelines

Accelerated testsAccelerated tests Weight lossWeight loss Freeze/thaw testingFreeze/thaw testing Package testingPackage testing

Basics of a stability testBasics of a stability test

MakingBatches

TestingSamples

MakingDecisions

Sample storageSample storage Various temperaturesVarious temperatures

50C, 45C, 35C50C, 45C, 35C RT, 4CRT, 4C

Various lightingVarious lighting SunlightSunlight UV lightUV light

ActualActualSampleSampleStorageStorage

Sample Evaluation ScheduleSample Evaluation Schedule Standard time checksStandard time checks

2 weeks2 weeks 4 weeks4 weeks 8 weeks / Decision8 weeks / Decision 12wk, 26wk, 52wk, beyond12wk, 26wk, 52wk, beyond

DecisionsDecisions Cosmetics stable for at least 1 yearCosmetics stable for at least 1 year

3 years for some products3 years for some products 8wk at 45C = 1 year stability8wk at 45C = 1 year stability 4 week = fragrance4 week = fragrance 8 week = provisional8 week = provisional 12wk = higher confidence12wk = higher confidence 52wk = verification52wk = verification

Requirement for OTCRequirement for OTC

Safety TestingSafety Testing

Products must be safeProducts must be safe

““Safety is freedom from unreasonable risk of Safety is freedom from unreasonable risk of significant injury under reasonably significant injury under reasonably foreseeable conditions of use.”foreseeable conditions of use.”

– Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR)Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR)

ConcernsConcernsEye, skin, toxicology Eye, skin, toxicology

Safety TestingSafety Testing

External System TestsExternal System TestsChemical irritantsChemical irritantsPatch testingPatch testingEye irritation testsEye irritation testsSensitizersSensitizersPhotosensitivityPhotosensitivityAcnegenicityAcnegenicity

Safety TestingSafety Testing

Internal System testsInternal System testsOral & Percutaneous toxicity testsOral & Percutaneous toxicity testsInhalation testingInhalation testingIrritation studiesIrritation studies

Systemic effectsSystemic effectsMutagenicity testsMutagenicity testsCarcinogenic testingCarcinogenic testingTeratogenic testsTeratogenic tests

Performance testingPerformance testing

Must substantiate advertising claimsMust substantiate advertising claims

No specific tests dictated by FDANo specific tests dictated by FDA

““Extraordinary claims need extraordinary Extraordinary claims need extraordinary proof”proof”

Performance testingPerformance testing

Common claimsCommon claimsEfficacy claimsEfficacy claimsSafety claimsSafety claimsExotic material claimsExotic material claimsComparison claimsComparison claims

Performance testingPerformance testing

SkinTesting

HairTesting

Cosmetic ScienceCosmetic Science