INTRODUCTION TO

Lecturer: Maryam Tamizifar

Office: 257 Everson hall

Email: mtamizifar@ucdavis.edu

Office Hours: Tuesdays 4-5 pm, by smartsite, or any convenient time

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Lectures I. Introduction (7) Chap.1,

7,8A. Textile Materials and Their PerformanceB. Fiber Classification and TheoryC. Fiber Identification

II. Textile Fiber Production, Processing, Properties (6) 10-21 A. Natural Fibers (Protein and Cellulosic)B. Manufactured Fibers (Regenerated Natural and Synthetic)

III. Yarns (3) 22-25 A. Yarn Formation and StructureB. Texturing and Blending

IV. Fabrication 26-29A. Weaving and Woven StructuresB. Knitting and Knitted StructuresC. Nonwoven, and Composite Fabrics

V. Finishing and Coloration (5) 30-35, 9 A. Physical and Chemical FinishesB. Color, Dyes, Dyeing and Printing

C. Textile Labeling

Laboratory

I. Textile Structure IdentificationII. Fiber IdentificationIII. Yarn IdentificationIV. Fabric Construction IdentificationV. Finishing IdentificationVI. Dyed and Printed Fabrics

Identification

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Lecture 1: Textile Materials and Their Performance

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Outline: Introduction Definition of widely-used Terms Textile Performances General Features of Fabrics Fabricated Textile Products Fiber Morphology Fiber Macrostructure

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TEXTILES or TEXTILE MATERIALS

Textile materials are fibers, yarns, fabrics, and products made from fabrics which retain more or less completely the strength, flexibility, and other typical properties of original fiber or filaments.

ASTM (D123-88b), “Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles”

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Textile Structure

Fabric,

Yarn,

Fiber,

Colorant & Chemicals

Textile Performance

Performance (Serviceability): Measure of a textile’s ability to meet consumer’s needs (major requirements that fabrics generally meet),

Aesthetics: Attractiveness or appearance of a textile product

Durability: How a product withstands use; length of time the product is suitable for the use for which it was purchased

Performance Cont.

Comfort: How a textile product affects heat, air, and moisture transfer, interaction of body and textile product.

Maintenance (Appearance retention): How the product maintains its original appearance during use and care*.

Health/safety/protection: its ability to protect the body and environment from a variety of harmful substances.

*Care: Treatment required to maintain a textile product’s original appearance

Fabrics Definition & Components

A planar structure consisting of yarns or fibers

General Features:1. Fiber2. Yarn3. Fabric Construction4. Interstices (voids)5. Colorant & Chemicals

1. Fiber 11

Any substance, natural or manufactured, which is characterized by having a length at least 100 times its diameter or width and can be spun into yarns, or made into a fabric.

Generally the ratio is 1000:1, and fiber diameter varies from 11-50 micrometers

Continuous fiber (FILAMENT): Silk and synthetic fibers

Short fiber (STAPLE): Cotton, wool, cut lengths of filament

Structural & Cross-sectional shapes of Fibers 12

2. Yarn

An assemblage of fibers that is twisted or laid together so as to form a continuous strand that can be made into a textile fabric, Spun, Filament, Compound and Fancy Yarn.

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3. Fabric Construction• Arrangement of yarns or fibers within a fabric;

– interlacing (woven fabrics) – interlooping (knitted fabrics) – bonding the fibers or filaments (nonwovens)

4. Interstices (Voids) - Spaces in fabrics

Colorants: Dyes (Mostly soluble) Pigments (Insoluble)

Chemicals: Finishing agents Acids and bases Surfactants

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5. Colorant & Chemicals

Fabricated Textile Products

Apparel,

Interior Textiles,

Household Textiles, and Institutional Textiles,

Industrial Textiles and Consumer Textiles,

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Classification of Fibers 17

Natural Fibers: Vegetable fibers:

Seed (Cotton, Kapok, etc) Bast (Flax , Ramie, Hemp, Jute,

etc.) Leaf (sisal, abaca or manila, etc)

Animal fibers: Silk, Wool, Animal hair (Alpaca, Camel, Mohair, Cashmere)

Mineral fiber: Asbestos

Classification of Fibers, cont. 18

Man-made Fibers: Inorganic Fibers: Glass , ceramic, metal Regenerated Fiber: Rayon, Polynosic, Tencel,

Lyocell, Casein, etc. Semi-Synthetic fibers: Cellulose acetate Synthetic Fibers: Polyamide (Nylon), Polyester,

Acrylic, Modacrylic, Aramides, Polyethylene, Polypropylene, Polyurethane (Spandex) ….

Fiber Morphology 19

Morphology: Study of size, shape, and structure of a material and the relationships between aspects of structure.

Includes: Macrostructure Microstructure Submicroscopic Structure Fine Structure

Macrostructure

Observable features of fiber structure;

LENGTH: Staple: 3/4 - 18 inches (or 2- 46 cm) Filament: infinite length Fibers shorter than 15 mm are classified as nontextile fibers

SIZE: Expressed in terms of diameter or linear density, or cross-sectional area The size of Natural fibers is given as diameter (D), in micrometer

(μm), usually D is 11-70 μm, cotton(16-21), wool(17-40) Fibers exceeding D>50 μm are classified as nontextile fibers

The finer the natural fiber size, the higher the quality of the fiber Silk and manufactured fibers are given in denier or tex units.

Denier: The weight in grams of 9,000 meters of any linear material,

one denier = one gram of 9,000 meters of fiber,

Tex: The weight in grams of 1,000 meters of any linear material,

or 1/9 of 1 denier, Coarse 6.3-25 denier or 0.70-2.78 tex Medium 2.2-6.3 denier or 0.24-0.70 tex Fine fibers <2.2 denier or 0.24 tex Micro fiber <1 denier or 0.11 tex Ultra-fine Micro fiber <0.3 denier or 0.033 tex

Increase in denier or tex numbers increase in fiber size

Macrostructure Cont.

CRIMP : refers to waves, bends, twists or curls along the fiber length▫ Linear, 2- or 3-dimensional , inherent or latent crimp. ▫ Crimp can increase the binding force between fibers.

COLOR:▫ Natural fibers are white or off-white, tan or brown▫ Manufactured fibers generally are white or off-white, also changeable

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