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Introduction
Hi!
If you’re reading this, it means you are about to do your research prior to arrival in Prague, or you are already in Prague and are probably hungry. Of course, there are many, many restaurants, cafés and bars in Prague, but these are the ones we really like, which does not mean that restaurants not included in this list are necessarily bad. It can be that we’ve not discovered them yet (but that’s not very likely as we are on a watch out all the time :)).
If you’re reading this on an electronic device, some of the details under each eatery should be clickable: clicking the address should open the appropriate (Czech) Google Maps page, clicking the website opens your browser and loads the website, and clicking the e-mail address should open a new e-mail message with subject that reads “Reservation”.
The opening hours are taken from the eateries‘ websites and should be generally reliable; however, we recommend checking them in advance, especially during bank and other major holidays.
Reservations are not always required but usually really recommended.
“Free wifi” is indicated wherever we could confirm it; however, free wifi is a fairly standard feature and almost all eateries will offer it. Virtually all the restaurants/cafés/bistros on this list are non-smoking, or have a non-smoking section. We hate smoking in restaurants. This, however, sadly does not apply to bars and pubs.
Anyway, we hope you have a great time in Prague, and we hope that this list will help you to ensure that your time in Prague is indeed great. If you visited any of the eateries on this list and did not like it for any reason whatsoever, please send us a message with details. We update the list regularly and welcome all feedback.
Have fun!Zuzi and Jan
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Restaurants
La Degustation Boheme Bourgeoise $$$$$
Haštalská 18, Prague 1, Mon-Sun 18-24, www.ladegustation.cz/en/, +420 222 311 234, [email protected], free
wifi
When second best is not enough, this Michelin-starred fine dining venue will serve creative dishes from locally sourced ingredients without the usual stuffiness. The very talented co-owner and Executive Chef Mr. Oldř ich Sahajdák and his great team create two unique “tasting menus” - “Dégustation Bohême Bourgeoise” and “Dégustation du Chef”. The former consists of the deconstructed Czech classics that were well-known in the Czech culinary scene at the end of the 19th century and they use classic ingredients that can be traced back to the local farms. Also, if you go for wine pairing, give a try to the Czech wines (if you prefer to pick just one or two glasses paired with your meal, that’s great too). This place is by no means cheap: on the contrary, it’s pretty expensive – but if you are a curious foodie who enjoys playful small dishes, surprises and looks for a gourmet experience, La Degustation is worth every penny! Reservations highly recommended. Tip: Ask for a chefs’ table to watch the chefs prepare your meal.
Sansho $$$$
Petrská 25, Prague 1, Tue-Thu 11:30-15, 18-23, Sat 18-23:30, www.sansho.cz/en, +420 222 317 425,
[email protected] Love Asian fusion? Then a set six-course dinner or a-la-carte lunch in Sansho’s casual, minimalist interiors with retro touches is a must. As a bonus, you can chat with the friendly owner and chef, Paul Day, who also owns a fantastic butcher shop dedicated to Czech organic meat from “happy animals”. Tip: Make sure you try the great craft beer by Matuska.
SaSaZu $$$$
Bubenské nábřež í 306, Prague 7, Sun–Thu 12-24, Fri-Sat 12-01, en-prague.sasazu.com, +420 284 097 455, [email protected]
The excellent Asian-fusion food in this high-end clubby venue will make up for the rather dodgy surroundings. A bit off the centre but definitely worth the trip. For an extra portion of fun, visit the Sunday family brunch. This is a smoking venue but the tables are further apart and the ventilation system is very good: we don’t find this an issue as non-smokers ourselves. Tip: We suggest getting one dish from each of the 5 categories per couple, but don’t leave without ordering Momo Fuku, SaSa crispy rolls, the Stone Over Crispy duck, and the Hong Kong rolls.
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Čestr $$$
Legerova 75/57, Prague 1, Mon-Fri 11:30-23, Sat 12-23, Sun 12-22, cestr.ambi.cz/en/, +420 222 727 851, [email protected], free wifi
[Part of our tour.] This sanctuary dedicated to the Czech spotted cow serves locally sourced modern interpretation of Czech classics in a bustling atmosphere. Great tank beers, fruit brandies from small Czech distilleries, organic Czech and Central European wines. Big and noisy, this place is better suited for friendly reunions than romantic dates. Čestr is a celebration of Czech food at its best. Tip: We never leave without a scoop of their beer ice-cream.
Alcron $$$$
Štěpánská 40 , Prague 1, Mon-Fri 12-2:30, 17:30-22:30, Sat 17:30-22:30, www.alcron.cz, +420 222 820 410,
[email protected], free wifi
Book early to grasp one of the twenty-odd seats in this intimate and very elegant Michelin-star restaurant and enjoy international dishes made to perfection. This restaurant is a part of the Radisson hotel.
Aromi $$$$
Mánesova 78, Prague 2, Mon-Sat 12-23, Sun 12-22, www.aromi.cz/en/home/, +420222713222, [email protected], free wifi
Seated in the Vinohrady district (loved by locals and expats alike), Aromi, which serves Italian dishes with a focus on fish and seafood, is a local favorite for a romantic dinner. We can’t promise singing waiters or gondolas but a dinner at Aromi will still set the mood right. Tip: Ask for a table near a window and order fish, Aromi’s specialty.
Aureole $$$$
Hvězdova 2b, Prague 4, Mo-Sa(Su) 11-02(24), Hvězdova 2b, http://www.aureole.cz, +420 222 755 380
Nestled on the top floor of a high-rise building, this restaurant/lounge is truly a “place with a view”. Like flying first class: luxurious decor, smart Asian fusion cuisine and cocktails on board. Tip: Go here for a great view of Prague from a different perspective and stay for great food and drinks.
CottoCrudo $$$$
Veleslavínova 1098/2a, Prague 1, www.cottocrudo.cz/en, +420 221 426 880, [email protected]
You can’t go wrong with high-quality cold or cooked Italian food and that’s exactly what CottoCrudo stands for and offers. Part of the Four Seasons hotel but the prices are not as high as you would expect, the interiors are modern and smart. Tip: Reserve a table outdoors if it’s sunny, or get a table by the window for a great view of the Prague Castle.
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La Finestra in Cucina $$$$
Platnéřská 90/13, Prague 1, Mon-Sat 12-23, Sun 12-22, www.lafinestra.cz/en/uvod/, +420 222 325 325, [email protected]
You will impress in this high-end Italian restaurant near the Charles Bridge: intimate, dark, modern settings, good food (meat is their specialty), good service, that’s what you are up to. This high end place is very popular in the business circles and the guests dress the part. Reservations are a must. Tip: Ask for a table in the second section of the restaurant and don’t skip the antipasti.
Divinis $$$$
Týnská 21, Prague 1, Mon-Sat 18-01, www.divinis.cz/en/, +420 222 325 440, [email protected]
Cozy, intimate, attractive, charming place run by the Czech “Gordon Ramsay” but you will hear no shouting: the service is personal and friendly. Divinis focuses on Italian cuisine, offers lots of daily specials and boasts a large selection of Italian wines. Tip: When making your reservation, make sure you will not be seated in the hallway next to the bathrooms.
Na Pekárně $
Kojetická 36, Čakovičky, Wed-Sat 11-22, Sun 11-18, napekarne.com, +420 315 602 615, [email protected]
This place requires some travel but trust us: it’s worth it. Owned and run by Mr Václav Frič, a famous chef and a force of nature, this is a shrine of Czech cuisine. For us it is like visiting grandma’s, except you won’t have to help with the dishes. The menu is brief, with several daily specials on the blackboard. If you’re really interested in trying a particular Czech dish, make a reservation several days ahead and ask for the dish. Tip: We don’t want to live your life but you should go for “svickova”, wild boar with hibiscus sauce and plum jam “ravioli” for dessert.
Kastrol $
Ohradské náměstí 1625/2, Prague 5, Mon-Sun 11-22, http://www.restauracekastrol.cz/index.php, +420 607 048 992, [email protected]
Will travel for food? Sure thing! Calling the location of this eatery with the feel of a village pub central would be daring, but they do Czech meaty dishes really well, and you get great beer, too. Besides, you won’t believe the bill is correct (yes, it’s very reasonably priced). Tip: travel here for the local atmosphere and genuine food.
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Kalina $$$$
Dlouhá 12, Prague 1, Mon-Sat 12-15, 18-22.30, http://www.kalinarestaurant.cz/en/, +420 222 317 715, [email protected]
This high-end French restaurant serves excellent food, great value lunch specials and a plethora of wines in elegant, sophisticated interiors. Your monocle may fall when you raise your eyebrow over the sometimes misbehaving staff. The daily lunch specials are good value.
Pot-au-feu $$$$
Rybná 13, Prague 1, Mon-Fri 11-15, 18-22, Sat 18-23, www.potaufeu.cz, +420 739 654 884
Excellent French cooking in intimate and small surroundings. Nice selection of wines. Good for romantic dinners.
Pizza Nuova $$$
Revoluční 1, Prague 1, Daily 11.30-23.30, http://pizzanuova.ambi.cz/en/, +420 221 803 308, [email protected],
Fun and big place for the entire family or a friendly reunion. “Restraint” really does not describe this lively place. The best pizza this side of Naples according to Heston Blumenthal (really), good pasta and salad bar. All you can eat or a-la-carte. Tip: Great place if you have kids, too.
Nota Bene $$
Mikovcova 4, Prague 2, Mon-Fri 11-23, Sat 12-23, www.notabene-restaurant.cz, +420 721 299 131
If craft beers are your thing, this non-smoking beer point is a must. The food is also great but they will let you wait for it, which isn’t necessarily a bad thing because you have to go through the six beers on tap, right? Reservations recommended. Tip: If you don’t know which beer to go with, start with the small tasting set.
Ola Kala $$$
Korunní 48 , Prague 2, Tu-Fr 11-15, 18-23, Sa 17-23, http://www.olakalabistro.cz/home-page, +420 222 540 400, [email protected]
You can both eat and cook at Ola Kala as they run a cooking school, too. Portions are on the smaller side but they pack great flavors. Local and seasonal fare in a small, intimate setting. Tip: Nice place for a romantic dinner without other tourists.
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Mash Hana $$$
Badeniho 3 , Prague 6, Tu-Fr 11.30-15, 17.30-22.30, Sa 11.30-22.30, http://www.mashhana.cz/, +420 224 324 034
This family run restaurant is a place where Japanese expats and locals meet to enjoy great-value bento box lunches, sushi, ramen noodles and other Japanese cuisine. Tip: Head here if you are wanna break from heavier Czech cuisine or before/after the Castle visit.
Pasta Fresca $$$
Celetná 11, Prague 1, Mon-Sun 11-00, http://pastafresca.ambi.cz/en/#index, +420 224 230 244
Like an Italian oasis in the sea of Old Town tourist traps. Contemporary interiors and good pasta made in house (we love to watch them make it). Lunch specials are great value. Tip: Stop for a break (ask about the daily lunch options) between sightseeing.
Argument $$$
Bubenečská 19, Prague 6, Mon-Sat 11.30-23.30 Sun 12-22, http://www.argument-restaurant.cz/home-page, +420 220 510 427, [email protected], free wifi
Definitely off the beaten track, this place is great if you get tired after walking through the Prague Castle and want to eat good, seasonal and local food from their tasty and interesting menu in a less crowded environment (unless you come for their popular but not-so-great lunch specials from Monday to Friday). Tip: Best time to visit? Saturday lunch after a stroll through the nearby Dejvicka farmers’ market, followed by a walk to the Prague Castle.
Las Adelitas $$$
Malé nám. 13, Prague 1, Mo-Fr 11-23, Sa-Su 14-23, https://www.facebook.com/LasAdelitasMaleNamesti, +420 222 233 247
Who cares if the food in this popular local Mexican hangout is not as spicy as you know it from home? It is still the best Mexican food in town and you can always wash it down with a great Margarita! Tip: Reserve a table in advance.
Bistros Dish Fine Burger Bistro $$Ř ímská 29, Prague 2, Mon-Sat 11-15, 18-23, Sun 12-22, http://dish.cz, +420 222 511 032, [email protected],
Book in advance because we are not the only ones who think Dish serves the best burgers in town. If having their smoked-pepper or lime&chili mayonnaise with fries is not good for you, we don’t want to know what is. Tip: The meaty options are generally much tastier than the vegetarian options.
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SistersDlouha 39, Prague 1, Mon-Fri 9-18, www.chlebicky-praha.cz, +420 775 991 975
Czech classic open-faced sandwich updated and modernised. Opened by the trend setter of the Czech culinary scene, Ms Michopulu, at the beginning of 2014, this small bistro quickly became a local favorite. They also plan to open a bakery in April 2014. Tip: Don’t forget to order one of their excellent daily soups.
Naše masoDlouha 39, Prague 1, Mon-Sat 8-20, www.nasemaso.ambi.cz
This shop/bistro is a love child of Ambiente group and Mr. Kšana, a well-known butcher. Originally created as a “butcher shop for women”, this shop/bistro is loved by everyone equally. Wonderful meat products and craft beer. Tip: Try anything from their bistro offer and draw your own beer from the tap to go with it.
Home Kitchen $$Jungmannova 8, Prague 1, Mon-Fri 7:30-21, Sat 8-15, www.homekitchen.cz/en/index.php, +420 734 714 227, [email protected], free wifi
It is hard not to make friends, talk to a local or share your food because the place is just so tiny. Home-made honest dishes and great soups. Gets crowded easily for lunch but seats are available later. Tip: Come for a lovely breakfast and watch the chef preparing the meals in the open kitchen.
La Bottega di Finestra $$$Platnéřská 11, Prague 1, Mon-Fri 8-22, Sat 8.30-22, Sun 8.30-20.30, http://lafinestra.labottega.cz/en/uvod/, +420 222 233 094, [email protected],
This more affordable and friendlier sister of La Finestra next door serves good breakfasts, salads, quick lunches and dinners. Great shopping venue for foodies and some people-watching. The salad bar really makes this a great option for vegetarians. Tip: This is a great base camp to get some energy before the climb to the Prague Castle.
Gastronomica La Bottega di Aromi $$$Ondř íčkova 17, Prague 2, Mon-Thu 8:30 -21:30, Fri-Sat 9.30-22, Sun 9.30-16, http://aromi.labottega.cz/en/uvod/ , +420 222 233 811, [email protected]
Even nicer bistro/shop of the popular “Aromi/Finestra” group. Start with a delicious breakfast, follow with nice pastries, shop for a picnic in the park nearby and finish with some wine. You can easily spend hours in this place with great design and pleasant atmosphere. Tip: Come here on Wed, Fri or Saturday, start with great breakfast and continue with a visit to the farmers’ markets, TV Tower and Vitkov National Monument.
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Wine Food Market $$Strakonická 1, Prague 5, Mon-Sun 9-21, http://www.winemarket.cz/kontakty.php, +420 733 338 650,
[email protected], This place feels like shopping in Italy. Buy bread, hams and cheeses, wine, fresh fish, meat and much more to go or just sit down to enjoy simple Italian fare made from fresh ingredients in the central “market” area with live piano. Very lively place loved by affluent locals. Tip: If you’re renting an apartment and want quality food, this is one of the best places to shop.
The TavernChopinova 26, Prague 2, Tue 17-22, Wedn-Sun 11:30-22, http://www.eng.thetavern.cz
Everything you need for a hangover fix: good burgers, friendly and forgiving staff and fresh air (if you need it) at the terrace or in the nearby park. The atmosphere is very relaxed and you may spontaneously start singing. They also have a good selection of craft beers. Tip: Their pulled pork marinated in Slivovitz eaten in the Rieger Gardens is our favorite thing to do.
Pho Vietnam $Slavíkova 1657/1, Prague 2, Mon-Sun 10-22 or Anglická 15, Prague 2, Mon-Sat 10-22 www.facebook.com/
photuanlan, +420 224 221 665, [email protected]
Candle-lit dinner for two? Forget it. Fantastic pho for cheaps? You bet!
Pastacaffé $$Vězeňská 1, Prague 1, Mon-Sat 8-22, Sun 10-22, http://www.restauraceambiente.cz/
ambi_pastacafeb_kontakt_eng.php, +420 224 813 257, [email protected],
Where the young and famous go for breakfast, lunch and pastries. Great for a quick fix: good pasta dishes or sandwiches, followed by really nice pastries. A great place for people-watching and planning your afternoon. Tip: Come for good value breakfast and grab a place in the non-smoking section.
La Boucherie M $$$Zubatého 295/5, Prague 5, Mo 11-16, Tu-Fr 8.30-20, Sa 9.30-15, www.laboucheriem.cz, +420 702 033 020
Can’t visit France on your trip? You can still get authentic French food at this bistro and shop run by French owners. Great for a quick meal or shopping when you’re in the area.
Polévkárna $Sokolovská 97, Prague 8, Mon-Fri 8-18, www.polevkarna.cz, +420 775 114 050, [email protected]
This is a small but very popular lunch spot in the Karlin district focusing primarily on soups. Not every soup is great but they have wonderful Georgian Chachapuri, bread with eggplant, nuts and other fill ings.
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Zlatý kříž $Jungmannovo nám. 751/19, Prague 1, Mon-Fri 7-19, Sat 9-15, zlaty-kriz.sluzby.cz, +420 234 129 708,
[email protected], This legendary deli for “chlebicky”, Czech open-faced sandwiches, shows what delis looked like here before McDonald’s crushed them all. A truly local experience. Tip: For us, this place is like time travel back to the 1970s.
CafésEMA Espresso BarNa Florenci 1420/3, Prague 1, Mon-Fri 8-20, Sat 9-20, http://www.facebook.com/EMAespressobar, +420 730 156 933, no wifi!
Our “second office” has everything our office would ever need minus the wifi: great coffee (prepared in various ways from direct trade beans only), friendly staff, tasty snacks, lots of light and minimalist interiors. The also offer nice teas, organic wines from Moravia, and a few snacks. Tip: If you are crazy about coffee, this place should be on your list.
Můj šálek kávy Kř iž íkova 105, Prague 8, Mon-Sat 9-22, Sun 10-18, www.mujsalekkavy.cz, +420 222 981 874,
[email protected], free wifi
You can’t blame us for going to the Karlin district just to visit Muj salek kavy. This lively flagship café of local roasters offers simple dishes, nice cakes, breakfast all day over weekends (until 11am during a week), and boasts nice outdoor seating in the summer. Tip: Once you’re here, explore the entire neighbourhood. It’s worth it.
Café Savoy $$$Vítězná 5, Prague 5, Mon-Fri 8-22:30, Sat-Sun 9-22:30, www.ambi.cz/ambi_cafesavoy_kontakt_eng.php, +420
257 311 562, [email protected], free wifi
[Part of our Sunday tours.] Come for the stunning interiors, stay for great breakfasts, schnitzels, soups and pastries. Great for a read or - better yet - for watching the elegant locals and expats. Reservations are a must for weekend breakfasts and lunches. Tip: Their soups are the best in town and their French Toast is our guilty pleasure.
Café Lounge Plaská 615/8, Prague 5, Mon-Fri 7:30-22, Sat 9-22, Sun 9-17, www.cafe-lounge.cz/en/, +420 257 404 020,
[email protected], free wifi
This small café with a “first republic” feel is great for a chat with a friend. You can spend the whole day here: they have breakfasts, lunches and dinners, and, above all, great coffee. Tip: When sunny outside, reserve a table at the lovely garden that actually includes the remnants of the Medieval Hunger Wall.
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Monolok $$Moravská 18, Prague 2, Mon-Fri 8-22, Sat 10-19, Sun 10-19, http://www.monolok.cz, +420 739 018 195, free wifi
We wrote half of this guide in Monolok. In fact, we go there whenever we need to get some work done with great coffee in comfy, calm and airy surroundings. They serve good breakfasts, too. Tip: Reserve a table next to the window in the second room or in their small courtyard outside.
I Need CoffeeNa Moráni 7, Prague 2, Mo-Fr 8-20, Sa 10-17, https://www.facebook.com/ineedcoffee.cz, +420 777 446 022, no wifi
Like a cafe in Mitte, Berlin, but with less hipsters. If you love modern design and watching people in a relaxed atmosphere, you will love I Need Coffee. Tip: They also offer pastries made by local foodies and little souvenirs by local designers.
Café JenKodaňská 553/37, Prague 10, Mon 8-19, Tue-Fri 8-21:30, Sat 9:30-21:30, Sun 9:30-19, cafejen.cz, +420 604 329 904
Breakfast served throughout the day, good coffee, great local neighborhood and the always smiling owners make this the perfect venue before you start drinking in the nearby Grebovka vineyard.
TricaféAnenská 3 , Prague 1, Tu-Su 10-18, https://www.facebook.com/tricafepraha, +420 601 368 439
Visiting TriCafe is like visiting an old friend: you get a homey feel, a cup of great coffee and a good cake. Tip: Sit on the bench outside to catch some sunshine.
Kafe KarlínSokolovská 46/51, Prague 8, Mon-Fri 7:30-18:30, https://cs-cs.facebook.com/kafekarlin, +420 222 334 433
Quick coffee fix in the Karlin district. This small espresso bar is owned by the “Coffee Club”, a group of well known and praised baristas. Come for excellent coffee from single origins and blends made in house. Tip: Skip the cakes and visit Simply Good instead.
Mezi zrnkySázavská 19, Prague 2, Mon-Fri 7:30-18:30, Sat 9:30-15:30, www.mezizrnky.cz, +420 732 238 833
Nice small bistro that serves simple dishes and great coffee with a smile.
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Al Cafetero Blanická 24, Praha 2, Mon-Thu 9-22, Fri 9-18, alcafetero.cz, +420 777 061 161, [email protected], free wifi
This small, non-smoking, family run café feels like someone’s living room. The owner will be your most accommodating host, offering good coffee and a friendly chat. Tip: Try the delicious coffee made from the vacuum pot (they have espressos and lattes, too), but be prepared to be offered no sugar with your coffee.
KafematDejvická 3, Prague 6, Mon-Fri 8-18, Sat 9:30-18, https://cs-cs.facebook.com/kafematdejvice, +420 721 536 200
The best coffee in Prague 6 area served with friendly chat. Tip: It’s just an espresso bar, but don’t be surprised if you spend half an hour just chatting with the barista.
Bella Vida CaféMalostranské nábř. 3, Prague 1, Mon-Sun 9-21, www.bvcafe.cz, +420 221 710 494
The only café with anything approaching a “view”, especially when you sit outside. Eat your breakfast just like your grandpa did, or take it to the Kampa park nearby. Tip: If the weather is great, reserve a place outside and eat you meal watching the Vltava river and the buzz at the Charles Bridge.
Kavárna Pražírna Lublaňská 50, Prague 2, Mon-Fri 8:30-22, kavarnaprazirna.cz/en/, +420 720 385 622, [email protected], free wifi
Blending in with the locals over filter and espresso-based coffee from beans roasted in-house is easy in this local favorite. Great place for a meeting or a book. Tip: If you’re planning on using wifi, stay in the first room.
Mama CoffeeVodičkova 6, Prague 1, Mo-Fr 8-22, Sa-Su 10-22, http://www.mamacoffee.cz
If you’re a student, if you feel independent, if you’re young at heart, this is your place. Good vegetarian options to nibble on. Tip: If/when visiting the National Gallery, try their Cafe Jedna which is seated there, too.
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Bars and Wine Bars
Cloud 9 Sky Bar & Lounge Pobřežní 1, Prague 8, Mon-Sat 18-02, www.cloud9.cz/?lang=en, +420 224 842 999, [email protected],
Stunning views of Prague from the rooftop of the Hilton Hotel Prague (40 meters above ground), delicious contemporary cocktails, live music by DJs every Thursday, Friday and Saturday, open outside terrace or all-glass bar. Good enough for the Obamas who had a "date" there during their 2009 stay in Prague.
Hemingway Bar Karolíny Světlé 26, Prague 1, Mon-Thu 17-01, Fri 17-02, Sat 19-02, Sun 19-01, www.hemingwaybar.cz/bar-
prague/, +420 773 974 764, [email protected],
Although located in the very centre of Prague, this relaxed, cozy bar that boasts an excellent cocktail and spirit list (with a heavy focus on Caribbean rums) is a truly local place where locals go to drink their work-related woes away. Tell the bartenders what you love or just pick a drink from the menu. Great place for a date, and intimate, too: no cameras allowed! This venue gets crowded easily, so reservation is a must. Tip: After a few rums, you can walk to the Charles Bridge and river (a few steps away) and recreate your favourite scene from The Old Man and the Sea… …or not.
Vinograf Míšeňská 8, Prague 1, Mon-Sat 16-00, Sun 14-22, www.vinograf.cz/o-vinografu/, +420 604 705 730, [email protected], free wifi
Czech and Moravian wines is the name of the game here. This small and intimate wine bar offers far more than enough of them. You will be excused if you return the next day for more. This is a very small place that sits no more than twenty; therefore, reservations are highly recommended. Tip: If you are really interested in learning about Czech wines, drop them an email prior your holiday and ask for a guided tasting with a sommelier (Karel or Zuzka are the best).
“Big” Vinograf Mo-Sa 11.30-00, Senovážné nám. 23. $$$, NS, WF.
This newer and bigger brother of the wine bar above is a Mecca for serious winos: the bigger Vinograf offers a fantastic collection of local, foreign, organic and other wines best enjoyed at the long, wooden bar that dominates the room. Cold snacks and hot dishes, too. Tip: Come to impress your wine loving friends.
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Veltlin Kř iž íkova 488/115, Prague 8, Mon-Fri 15-22, Sat 16-22, www.veltlin.cz, +420 721 85 34 82, [email protected],
If you want to taste Central European organic wines, Veltlin is the place to go. This local hangout focuses on organic wines from the former Austro-Hungarian Empire, incl. the Czech Republic, in modern surroundings. If you’re lucky, you can attend a guided tasting with a local winemaker. Tip: Make sure you reserve enough of time for this local favorite located in the Karlin district - together with great neighbors such as Muj Salek Kavy, Tea Mountain, Simply Good, etc. you can spent the entire day there before you head to the Vitkov National Memorial above Karlin for the best view of the city.
RedPif Betlémská 9, Prague 1, Mon-Sat 10-22, restaurace.redpif.cz, +420 222 232 086, [email protected], free wifi
Wine and design? Perfect combination. This minimalist bar has a good atmosphere, nice selection of French and also some local wines and the kitchen is preparing creative, tasty dishes. Things get even merrier when the owner is in the house. Tip: The perfect resting place in the Old Town area.
Bar and Books Týnská 1053/19, Prague 1, Sun-Wed 17-03, Thu-Sat 17-04, www.barandbooks.cz/tynska/, +420 224 815 122
Despite the name, not great for reading. Dimly lit and at times filled with cigar smoke, this place makes great cocktails in an intimate setting. You have to ring the bell to get in. One page of their long menu is dedicated to James Bond-inspired drinks and cocktails, and the 007 movies are sometimes shown in the bar. Tip: This may be the perfect place to wind down after a nice Italian meal in the nearby Divinis. (But mixing La Dolce Vita with Goldfinger is purely optional).
Black Angel's Staroměstské náměstí 29, Prague 1, Daily 17-03, www.blackangelsbar.cz/bar, +420 221 416 401
The 1930s prohibition bar atmosphere will make you wish you hadn’t left that double-breasted pinstripe suit at home. Excellent cocktails and live music (although not the best) add to the experience. Tip: Opt for an a-la-carte drink or just have a drink made ad hoc to suit your present desires.
ParlourKrakovská 15, Prague 1, Mon-Sun 18-1, www.parlour.cz, +420 777 200 015
These guys are really serious about their cocktails. Describe what you like in terms of taste and they will make something wonderful for you. And if it doesn’t suit you, just tell them; they will happily prepare something else for you.
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U staré studny Trž iště 3, Prague 1, Mo-Sa 16-1, Su 16-23, www.ustarestudny.cz, +420 257 530 582
Fancy a glass of cognac after a day full of sightseeing? This small cellar is ideal. Combine it with cheeses and charcuterie to eat and you may just forget how much you’ve walked.
PubsLokál $$Dlouhá 33, Prague 1, Mon-Fri 11-01, Sat 12-01, Sun 12-22, lokal-dlouha.ambi.cz/en/#index, +420 222 316 265, [email protected], free wifi
A beer hall just like the Czechs like it: busy and loud. Truly Czech pubby classics, great Pilsner from the tank. The service is “pubby”, too: fast and effective, but don’t expect bows and pleasantries. Our favourite place for watching important sporting events, too. The interiors are full of retro touches: your visit would be incomplete without checking out the bathrooms. Tip: You wouldn’t expect Lokál to serve excellent Czech pastries, too.
Zlý Časy Čestmírova 5, Prague 4, Mon-Thu 11-23.30, Fri 11-01, Sat 17-01, Sun 17-23, www.zlycasy.eu, +420 723 339 995, [email protected]
Arguably the best beer-focused bar in town. Takes a small pilgrimage to get there but the plethora of craft beers on tap and in bottles in the non-smoking interiors are all it takes for a night (not) to remember.
Pivovarsky Klub Kř iž íkova 17, Prague 8, Daily 11.30-23.30, gastroinfo.cz/pivoklub/, +420 222 315 777, [email protected]
This is a great, non-smoking and highly popular place to explore a wide variety of Czech and foreign beers. Start with the six beers on tap before you move to nearly 300 beers in bottles, both domestic and foreign. Reservations for the top floor are a must.
Pivo a párekKorunní 105, Prague 2
“Beer and hot dog”. Enough said. Nice selection of beers from small breweries (2 to 4 on tap, lots in bottles) and hot dogs. Tip: Great local place when in the area.
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BakeryAntoninovo PekarstviLaubova 4, Prague 3, Mon-Sun 7:30-19:30, www.antoninovopekarstvi.cz, +420 605 202 861
If you like the smell of bakeries, Antoninovo Pekarstvi is a great place to visit. Fresh rolls and kolachees made on the spot taste great, especially when you get them right from the oven.
Pastry ShopsSimply Good Sokolovská 146/70, Prague 8, Mon-Fri 8-18, www.simplygood.cz, +420 774 735 955
Ever wondered what it would taste like if you had a Czech grandma? Simply Good has the answer: great kolachees and cakes from a former corporate executive turned baker. Tip: Try the wedding kolachees or Moravian “frgale”.
St Tropez $$Vodičkova 699/30, Prague 1, Mon-Fri 8-20, Sat 9-19, Sun 10-19, http://cukrarnatropez.cz/aktualne/, +420 603 333 338, [email protected],
You’ll feel like a kid in a candy shop again in this mainly French pastry shop (if they’re stocked well). The interiors are not the best in town (their recent pink paint job hurts our eyes), and the venue is hard to find but the pastries are mostly worth it.
Angelato Rytířská 27, Prague 1, Mon-Sun 11-21, angelato.eu, +420 224 235 123, [email protected]
You don’t have to be a kid to enjoy the great ice-cream served by friendly staff at Angelato. They serve seasonal flavors (like fig&parmesan or ginger&turmeric), too, but we keep coming back for the mango sorbet.
Erhart Café Vinohradská 125, Prague 3, Daily 10-19, www.erhartovacukrarna.cz/en/index.html, +420 273 130 574, [email protected],
Erhart Café on Vinohradska street is the second outlet of the popular pastry shop originally founded in the 1920s. Despite the modern and airy interior, this place, serving classic Czech pastries and modern cakes, feels like an old Czech pastry shop. Tip: Try many of the typical Czech pastries, including the Parisian roll (“parizsky rohlicek”), vetrnik, laskonka, kokoska, and others.
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BakeshopKozi 918/1, Prague 1, Mon-Sun 7-21, www.bakeshop.cz, +420 222 316 823
Opened nearly 20 years ago, Bakeshop is hardly a secret. You can have a salad, a sandwich, quiche, bread made in house and great cakes and pastries. This is not your student hangout: the quality is high but you’ll pay for it. Tip: There are better value places in Prague, but for the area, Bakeshop is a decent place to stop and refresh.
Choco Café Liliová 4/250, Prague 1, Mon-Sat 10-21, Sun 10-20, www.choco-cafe.cz/house-of-red-chair_p19.html, +420 222 222 519, [email protected],
A whole bar of chocolate melted in your cup? Sounds healthy! Avoid the urge to go crazy and don’t get the melted white chocolate. Stick to the basic hot chocolate with perhaps one add-on ingredient. You can thank us later. Tip: The reason why you should visit is the Horice roll (“horicke trubicky”) - very light, hand-made Czech pastry (granted a protected mark of origin by the EU) that even people who don’t like sweets really like.
Shops
SklizenoVodičkova 33, Prague 1, Mo 9-20, Tue-Fr 8-20, Sa 10-19, Su 12-18,
Farm to table, organic, gluten-free - you name it, they have it. This Czech foodie market focuses on local producers and carries a nice selection of local wines.
The Real Meat SocietyNáplavní 5 , Prague 2, Tu-We 11-18, Th-Fr 11-19, Sa 9-13, trms.cz, +420 739 022 597
This place is for everyone who wants to learn about Czech organic meat and butchery. You’ll come wanting a cut, you’ll end up buying the whole cow. Tip: Stop here even if you can’t buy meat (if you are staying in a hotel): you can always get some cold cuts and chat about the reinvention of Czech Prestice pig, or buy the latest edition of Lucky Peach.
La GareV Celnici 3, Prague 1, Mon-Sun 8-23, www.lagare.cz, +420 602 502 906
One of the better places to buy good croissants and bread. Tip: There is a so-so restaurant next door, but we usually come only for bakery and deli shopping.
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Tea RoomsTea Mountain $$Kř iž íkova 488/115, Prague 8, Mon-Fri 11-20, Sat 14:30-20, www.teamountain.cz, +420 605 851 962
The best tea sans the new-age vibe in a nicely designed, modern room. Enjoy some delicious tea in the small shop or buy some to go. Also, they are huge fans of porcelain, so you may also find some great souvenir to take home. Tip: This is a place to learn about tea: try their tasting sets or archived tea from 1996 - lots of fun and exploration guaranteed.
Bílý jeřáb $$Štefánikova 51, Prague 5, Mo-Sa 11-22, www.bily-jerab.cz, +420 257 215 934If you need some calm after pushing through the crowded streets, you’ll find this local, quiet teahouse in airy environment has a soothing effect on the nerves. Nice selection of teas, small vegetarian menu.
Dobra čajovnaVáclavské nám. 14, Prague 1, Mo-Fr 10-21:30, Sa-Su 14-21:30, +420 224 231 480, www.cs-cs.facebook.com/DobraCajovna
No. You’re not in Nepal. This quiet and intimate oasis in the courtyard of the Wenceslas Sq. is an illustration of Prague’s hidden but budding tea room scene. Great selection of teas is served in this very popular place.
Farmers‘ Markets
Where local farmers get together to teach affluent Prague residents where real food comes from. We love coming back for the great, friendly atmosphere and the good food that still tastes like what it used to taste when we were kids. Shop there for home or picnic., orb just come for the atmosphere and some great grub. Closed in Jan and Feb.
Dejvice Sat 8am – 2pm until November, every other Saturday in July and AugustHow to get there: Take the A line to Dejvická station and exit via the stop for the airport bus.If you want to check out this market be prepared to queue because many other people have the same idea. But your patience will pay off. Apart from getting to sample a market atmosphere close to the center, you will get to try some delicious produce coming from the Czech countryside. Try cheeses from the Držovice farm, coffee by Doubleshot, very
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tasty klobása or tlačenka or just go with the flow and pick up what you like (they will usually give you a bite to taste). For those with a sweet tooth, try the many pastries on offer. Best of all, there's a lot of space around the market to stretch out and savor your goodies.
Jiřího z Poděbrad
(Wed, Fri 8am - 6pm, Sat 8am - 2pm)This is very similar to the Dejvice market but it is a much smaller and, dare we say, hipper, market right on the Jiř ího z Poděbrad square and subway stop: perfect for a weekend distraction. Lots of good venues around the market: Pho Vietnam, Gastronomica, Erhart Café, The Tavern, Antonínovo pekařství (see them all above).
Náplavka (Sat 7am – 2pm) One of the smaller farmers' markets in Prague, the Naplavka is really special for its location: seated on the refurbished banks of the Vltava river, this market offers some great views of Prague. Conveniently located under the Vysehrad castle: this farmers' market combines a local food experience with local sightseeing. It is extremely popular among locals especially when the weather is nice.
Asian Trade Center Sapa (a very unique experience) A piece of Vietnam in Prague. Originally closed and secretive, this huge complex of markets finally opened its gates to the Czechs some years ago. This is a unique, sometimes intimidating experience, but the food is finger-licking good, ranging from phos, to bun-cha or Vietnamese coffee or bubble tea. To get to Asian Trade Center Sapa take bus 113 from metro Kačerov or bus 198 from Smíchovské Nádraž í bus station to Sídliště Písnice. Sapa is open daily from 9am - 8pm.
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