INTERNATIONAL DYER

8/10/2019 INTERNATIONAL DYER

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April 2011

DyerInternational

D y e i n g F i n i s h i n g P r i n t i n g C o a t i n g

www.international-dyer.comEst. 1881

WORLD TEXTILE INFORMATION NETWORK

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UNIQUE IDEAS. UNIQUE SOLUTIONS.

B E Z E M A A G | Kriessernstrasse 20 | CH-9462 Montlingen | Tel +41 71 763 88 11 | Fax +41 71 763 88 88 | www.bezema.com | [email protected] H T R . B E I T L I C H G M B H | Bismarckstrae 102 | D-72072 Tbingen | Tel +49 7071 154-0 | Fax +49 7071 154-290 | www.cht.com | [email protected]

U N I Q U E S O L U T I O N S

E x p e r i e n c e o u r d

i v e r s e c o m p e t e n c

e a t t h e p r e m i e r

f a i r s o f 2 0 1 1 : T E C

H T E X T I L i n F r a n k

f u r t / M a i n a n d

I T M A i n B a r c e l o n a

.

Fibre auxiliaries | Pretreatment | Dyeing | DYES | Textile printing | Finishing | Coating | Garmenting | Textile care

MAXIMUM REPRODUCIBILITY!Colour is the central element of textiles. Perfection is required for its achievement. The new advanced reactivetrichromat BEZAKTIV S-MATRIX helps achieve ideal results and ensures value-enhancement along the entiretextile chain. Perfect reactive dyeing with extreme colour intensity, unique combinability and sustainable ecolo-gical compatibility. Reach for perfection and maximise the world of colours!


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Contents

COVER ADVERTISEMENT

TANATEX Chemicals B.V. is an internationalorganization which develops, produces and sellschemicals for the textile industry. HQ is based in Ede,Netherlands, the production sites are situated in Edeand in Leverkusen, Germany. Furthermore TANATEX has a global network of own sales offices (legalentities) in the regions EMEA, Latin America, India,

USA, Asia Pacific and Japan. Through these offices,agencies and distributors TANATEX Chemicals cansupply and service customers all over the world.

Worldwide 350 colleagues are active to supply thecustomers with quality products and provide a highlevel of service.

TANATEX Chemicals endeavours to be a strong player within a constantly changing market byrendering to its customers a high level of technicalservice and a high degree of flexibility and reliability.

TANATEX Chemicals B.V.Einsteinstraat 11PO Box 466710 BA EdeNetherlandsTel. +31 318 670911Fax. +31 318 630236Email: [email protected]: www.tanatexchemicals.com

April 2011

DyerInternational

D y e i n g F i n i s h i n g P r i n t i n g C o a t i n g

www.international-dyer.comEst.1881


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PAGE 12

Military FabricsPAGE 17

Show Report

DyerInternational

www.internationaldyer.comEst. 1881

INTERNATIONAL DYER: PUBLISHER OF OFFICIALNEWSPAPER FOR ITMA ASIA + CITME 2010 AND ITMA 2011

2. COMMENT Green for Danger in the Marketing Morass

4. INDUSTRY NEWS

8. LOCAL COLOUR Pulcras US Expansion

9. DYES & CHEMICALS NEWS

12. TECHNICAL BRIEFING: MILITARY FABRICS Protection in a Hostile Setting Investment Meets Quality Demands

17. SHOW REPORT: PITTI FILATI Colour and Style, Ancient and Modern

20. TECHNICAL BRIEFING: DYEING Efficiency Gains with SmartLiquor Practical Experiences

21. INDUSTRY NEWS

23. OPINION: MOTH-PROOFING Counting the Cost

24. TECHNICAL TEXTILES

27. TECHNICAL BRIEFING: REACTIVE DYEING Hot Dyeing Reactive Dyes

30. RESEARCH: POLYESTER SCOURING Scouring of Polyester by an Eco-Friendly Route

33. TEXTILES & SUSTAINABILITY Textile Printing in a More Sustainable Way

38. TECHNOLOGY UPDATE: COLOUR MANAGEMENT Precision Solutions in Colour Matching

40. TECHNICAL BRIEFING: SOAP Soaps and Detergents for the Textile and Apparel industry

43. DIGITAL PRINTING

48. MACHINERY & SERVICES

49. PEOPLE

53. CALENDAR OF EVENTS

PAGE 32

Opinion: Moth Proofing


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INTERNATIONAL DYER

Editor: JOHN SCRIMSHAW Technical Editor:DR IAN HOLMEAssistant Editor:CHARLOTTE ROGERSChina Correspondent:ZHAO HEMINGIndia Correspondent:DR RAVINDRA ADIVAREKARNorth America Correspondent: JOHN MCCURRYDesign and Production Manager:GAVIN GIBSONEditorial Design:RICHARD MICALLEFDisplay Advertising Sales: JAMES WILSONClassified Advertising Sales: JON BLOOMSubscriptions:SUE PRITCHARDManaging Director:MARK JARVIS

International Dyer is published byWorld Textile Information NetworkPerkin House, 1 Longlands StreetBradford, West Yorkshire, BD1 2TPEngland Tel: +44 (0)1274 378800Fax: +44 (0)1274 378811 (General)Fax: +44 (0)1274 378812 (Editorial)e-mail: [email protected]: www.internationaldyer.com

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MAIN OFFICE: James WilsonWorld Textile Information Network, Perkin House,1 Longlands Street, Bradford, West YorkshireBD1 2TP, United Kingdom. Tel: +44 (0)1274 378800 Fax: +44 (0)1274 378811E-mail: [email protected]

SWITZERLAND, GER MANY, AUSTRIA & ITALY:Bruno Fisch & Werner MeierIff Media ag, Emmersbergstrasse 1,CH 8200 Sc haffhausen, Switzerland. Tel: +41 (0)52 633 0888 Fax: 41 (0)52 633 0899E-mail: [email protected]

JAPAN: Katsuhiro Ishii,Ace Media Services I nc. 12-6, 4 chome, NishiikoAdachi-ku, Tokyo 121-0824, Japan Tel:0081 3 5691 3335 Fax: 0081 3 5691 3336E-mail: [email protected]

U.S.A: Mr Bob MoorePO Box 4032, Cave Creek, AZ 85327-4032 USA Tel: +1 480 595 0494 Fax: +1 480 595 1749E-mail: [email protected]

INDIA: Mr Yogesh Jog,Bridge Media, D-2/M-4, Amikrupa HousingComplex, B/H Sweet Home Society,Near Shreyas Foundation, Ambawadi,Ahmedabad-15 Guajart, India. Tel: 91-79-6622428 Fax: +91 79 656 3533E-mail: [email protected]

CHINA: Joseph LuSenior Advertising ManagerRoom 708,Wise Logic International Center, No.66Shanxi Road North, Jing'an DistrictShanghai 200041, China T: +86 21 5116 8877 ext.631, F: +86 21 5116 0678,M: +86 1862 158 6833, Skype: josephlq

World Textile Information Network Ltd.2011All rights reserved.WTiN and World TextileInformation Network are registered trademarks.

Subscriptions (11 issues)Worldwide 299.00For subscription details and directoryavailability, please contact Sue Pritchard atWorld Textile Information Network on+ 44 (0)1274 378801.E-mail: [email protected]: www.internationaldyer.com

Green forDanger in the

Marketing MorassNano-Texs recent brush with US regulators, in the shape of the National Advertising

Division of the Council of Better Business (NAD), underlines the potency of greenclaims in the minds of marketers, the opportunity for confusion in the mind of the

consumer and the pitfalls of making a claim too far.NADs criticism of the marketing materials of Nano-Tex and its customer Applied

Textiles quotes such ubiquitous expressions such as certified, compliant, approvedand registered, as well as a comforting, but also bewildering, list of standards bodies:

Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), Occupational Safety and Health Administ ration (OSHA), Consumer Product s Safety Commission (CPSC), Oeko-TexTheir names instil confidence, but who among consumers knows what their approval

actually means?This is just a small sample of the increasingly long list of organisations official,

voluntary and commercial springing up to de live r green-sounding logos fo r tex tile

products, sometimes accompanied by a strict inspection regime, but sometimes not. With a ll t exti le f inishes, the degree of greenness depends en tire ly on your frame of

reference. There is a danger that the consumer will become cynical about such claims,and cynicism might be followed by hostility. International Dyer has already pointed out

this danger in respect of textile nanotechnology, and the need to do the science.It is gratifying, therefore, to see a consortium of US and UK funding bodies putting attotal of $12 million into trans-Atlantic research to establish whether, as some havesuggested, nanomaterials can leach out textile products after they enter the waste

stream, causing damage to the environment. And as one o f the Nano-Tex products was an antimicrobial , manufacturers shou ld

note the EUs plan to phase in pre-authorisation of biocidal products in textiles from2013 onwards.

JOHN SCRIMSHAWEditor

DyerInternational

Comment



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www.worldtextilesummit.com21st September 2011, Barcelona, Palau de Congressos de Catalunya Conference Centre

The World Textile Summit 2011 is organised in partnership by:

PLATINUMSPONSOR

The rst World Textile Summit will be a unique one-day event that brings together textile-industry leaders and some of the worlds most inuential thinkers and policymakers in strategically important elds suchas economics, trade, technology and sustainability.

Be Inspired!

Former UN-Secretary General and Nobel Prize Winner.

Keynote Speaker Ko Annan

President of China National Textile & Apparel Council (CNTAC).

Speaker Du Yuzhou

President and CEO of TenCate.Speaker Loek de Vries

COO of Oerlikon Group and CEO of Oerlikon Textile.

Speaker Thomas Babacan

New speakers conrmed nal speaker line-up to be announced soon

Co-founder and managing director of Alok Industries Limited.

Speaker Dilip B. Jiwrajka


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INTERNATIONAL DYER4

Industry News

Guilford Performance Textilesand NNG, a subsidiary of Chinese automotive interiormanufacturer YanFeng, haveformed a joint venture toprovide textiles to the Chineseautomotive industry.The new venture, Anhui Guilford

Automotive Interiors Co, is

intended to help Guilford andNNG to achieve expandedmarket coverage and enhancetheir competitiveness within the

growing Chinese automobilemarket.

Anhui Guilford will combineGuilfords technical andmanufacturing experience inautomobile textiles, with NNG'sclient base within China'sautomotive industry.The joint venture, based in thecity of HuaiNan in the Provinceof Anhui, eastern China,

currently employs 230 workers.It manufactures seating products for companiesincluding Chery Automobile, JACMotors and Shanghai

Volkswagen.

The European Parliament has givenits consent for a common EU patentsystem to be established using theenhanced cooperation procedure.

Companies in member states willnow be able to obtain a patent, validin all participating countries, with asingle application. A unitary patentsystem, abolishing differencesbetween member states over patentrights, is intended to make it easierand cheaper for inventors to protecttheir patents throughout the EU,helping to tackle infringements andcreating a level playing field forEuropean businesses.

In December 2010, twelve memberstates requested the enhancedcooperation procedure, after it wasconcluded not all countries couldagree on an EU-wide patent system.

All other member states have now

indicated their intention to sign up tothe procedure, with the exception of Italy and Spain.

Under the Lisbon Treaty, enhancedcooperation can be used to enable a

group of member states to adoptnew common rules when aunanimous EU-wide agreementcannot be reached. This is thesecond case of enhancedcooperation, the first being thedivorce law approved in 2010.

The Council of CompetitivenessMinisters is expected to formallyadopt the decision, authorising enhanced cooperation, fromMarch 9-10. The Commission willthen submit two legislativeproposals, one establishing thesingle patent (under the co-decision procedure) and the otheron the language regime (consul-tation procedure).

Obtaining a patent in Europecurrently costs ten times more thanone in the US because of national

validation and translation costs. A

European Patent validated in 13member states can cost up to18,000, of which nearly 10,000arises from translation fees alone. Onaverage a US patent costs 1,850.

One of the most powerful men in Chinese textiles, Du Yuzhou, presidentof China National Textile & Apparel Council (CNTAC), is to addressinternational industry leaders at the ITMA-ITMF World Textile Summit laterthis year.

Mr Du is one of a trio of speakers newly announced by the organisers of the Summit, which will take place in Barcelona, Spain, on September 21.He will outline Chinas strategic ambitions for its textile industry andreport on progress in its extensive modernisation programme.

The challenge of technological change and the drive for productinnovation will be among the themes explored by both Loek de Vries,president and CEO of the technical-textile leader TenCate, and Thomas

Babacan, CEO of the worlds biggest textile-machinery manufacturer,Oerlikon Textile, and COO of the OC Oerlikon Group.

TenCate, with an annual turnover of more than 1 billion, is a Dutch-based multinational with extensive interests in advanced textiles,composites, geosynthetics and artificial turf. Oerlikon Textile, part of theSwiss-based Oerlikon Group, has a turnover of 2 billion, making spinning,embroidery and nonwovens machinery through its Oerlikon Schlafhorst,Oerlikon Saurer, Oerlikon Barmag, Oerlikon Neumag and Oerlikon TextileComponents business units.

Last year former United Nations secretary-general Kofi Annan now aninternational advocate for sustainable business practice was revealed asone of the Summits keynote speakers.

The ITMA-ITMF World Textile Summit ( www.worldtextilesummit.com )is a one-day event, bringing together textile-industry leaders and someof the worlds most influential thinkers and policymakers in strategicallyimportant fields such as economics, trade, technology and sustain-ability. It sets out to deliver an inspirational, forward-looking agenda,comprising expert presentations and interactive panel discussions,designed to offer a global perspective on the opportunities andchallenges that face the textile industry in the years ahead, andproviding delegates with new ideas to maintain their success in thetextile manufacturing and supply chain.

The Summit will take place at the Palau de Congressos de Catalunya inBarcelona, one day ahead of the opening of the ITMA 2011 textile-machinery show in the same city. It is the first joint initiative between

CEMATEX (the European Committee of Textile Machinery Manufacturers)and the International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF), and is being organised in partnership with the World Textile Information Network (WTiN) and international event organiser MP International. Oerlikon Textileis the Summits Platinum Sponsor.

Guilford in Automotive JV

Common EUPatent Aproved

Chinese Leaderto Address WorldTextile Summit

Du Yuzhou Loek de Vries Thomas Babacan


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APRIL 2011 5

Anand Sharma, Indias minister of commerce and industry, has proposedthe doubling of textile exports as part of a draft strategy to help the countryhit exports of $450bn by 2014.To achieve this, Mr Sharma suggested focusing on specialised, nichemarkets. In his address, the minister described Indias textile industry as atraditional source of strength, generating tremendous employment. Thisstrategy to accelerate export growth is intended to keep the countrys tradedeficit within manageable bounds. During 2010/2011, Indian exports areexpected to reach $225bn.Mr Sharma said: We will give focused attention to building a Brand India, aquality enforcement regime which would need strengthening through BIS,

Export Inspection Council and our export promotion councils will be tasked with building a brand strategy which will resonate in the global markets.

The 6th annual public conference of the European Textile Technology

Platform is to focus on the potentialinnovative textiles have to helpaddress major issues affecting society.

Entitled Societal challenges -textile solutions, the aim of theconference is to demonstrate to EUpolicy makers the difference textileinnovations can make to the energy,climate change, health, safety, food,

water and transport sectors. Theevent will seek to contribute to thecurrent political discussion on futureEU research, higher educationpolicies and funding programmes,highlighting many cross-sectoralresearch collaborations facilitated bythe European Textile TechnologyPlatform.

Future EU research and innovationpolicies will be subject of theopening afternoon session, which

will be addressed by Anneli Pauli,deputy director general of theEuropean Commissions directorate

general for research and innovation.The European Textile Technology

Platform will be held at the HusaPresident Park Hotel in Brussels fromMarch 31- April 1.

The Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers (ACIMIT)and the Italian Institute for foreign trade have held two technologyseminars in Pakistan. The first was held in Karachi on March 14,

followed by the second in Lahore on March 17. The Italian textilemachinery manufacturers scheduled to present their latest technology

were Loris Bellini, Comez Gestioni, Corino Macchine, JaeggliMeccanotessile, Mario Crosta, Roj and Simet.

Navis TubeTex president and CEO

William Motchar, along with othermembers of the management team,has acquired the company from itsprevious owners, a private-equityshareholder group. The transaction

was completed in collaboration withprivate investment group CapitalSouth Partners based in Charlotte,North Carolina, US.

Mr Motchar said: This is clearly asignal of my confidence in the future

growth of this company. It is alsosignificant that a highly sophisticatedinvestment group such as CapitalSouth has invested in our companyand this industry.

The industry has rebounded fromthe global economic recession. Ourstate of the art technology combined

with our industry leading sales andservice network have allowed us totake full advantage of the rebound.

We will continue to invest in researchand development as well as ourtechnical and process expertise

around the world.Navis TubeTex intends to launch

several new products at the ITMA exhibition in Barcelona, Spain inSeptember.

The global textile machinerymarket is set to reach $20.75bn by2015, according to a new reportby Global Industry Analysts (GIA).The authors identified this growth

will be driven by demand fornonwoven disposable textileproducts, particularly from theburgeoning Chinese and Indian

economies.Entitled, Textile Machinery: A

Global Strategic Business Report,the study forecasts that theindustrys increasing desire forenvironmentally friendly fibres willdrive demand for textile machinerycapable of eco-friendly textileprocesses.

The authors argue that growth inthe Asian textile industry will revivebusiness for Western textile-

machinery manufacturers. Thisdemand is likely to be driven bythe growing demand for nonwovendisposable textile products such astissues and filters.

Encouraged by governmentalinitiatives to boost textilemachinery trade, bolster sales andinvestments, particularly in Chinaand India, the Asian region isforecast to be one of the fastest

growing markets by 2015, said thereports authors. The Asian andLatin America textile machinerymarkets, particularly in Peru,Colombia and Brazil, are forecastto grow at healthy rate.

PolyesterMarketThe global polyester market isexpected to reach 39.3 milliontonnes by 2015, according to GIA.

Entitled Polyester: A GlobalStrategic Business Report, aseparate study forecasts that the

market will be fuelled by increasing polyester consumption in Asia,particularly in China. The reportargues that the relatively low-costand easy-care characteristics of polyester will continue to attractconsumers in the apparel andfurnishings sectors.

The report suggests the globalfocus will remain on the Chinesemarket, as numerous large-scaleexpansion projects in the industrial

yarn and textile markets take placein the Asia-Pacific region.

Filament yarn constitutes thelargest as well as fastest

growing polyester productsegment and is projected toachieve a compound annual

growth rate of over 5% by 2015,said GIA. The long, silk-like textureof filament yarn will be utilised forindustrial applications such asautomotive tyre cords, seat beltsand ropes. The report alsoexpects staple fibres will continueto be used widely in the textileindustry for their ability to blendeasily with other fibres and yarns.

Textile Machinery

Market to Pass$20 Billion

Pakistan Seminars

NavisTubeTex Buyout

TextileInnovationBenefits

Indian Textile

Exports to Double


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INTERNATIONAL DYER6

Industry News

Organiser of ITMA 2011, MP International, has signed a working agreement with the International Wool Textile Organisation (IWTO) to introduce a fibreand yarn showcase and the leading technology show.This new chapter will cover natural, man-made and technical fibres, as wellas natural, synthetic and technical yarns. Sylvia Phua, project director of ITMA and CEO of MP International, said: Our main aim is to help textileand garment manufacturers be more efficient in their sourcing. Hence, wehave added raw materials in the exhibit profile.Wool is one of the world's premier textile fibres and world consumption in2010/11 is forecast to reach 1.08 million tonnes, according to theEconomist Intelligence Unit. Through this new partnership with IWTO, we

are confident of delivering an unrivalled sourcing experience for buyerslooking for natural fibres at ITMA.Peter Ackroyd, vice president of IWTO, said: We believe there areoutstanding synergies between IWTO and ITMA as we share manyobjectives. Our industry constantly strives to produce natural, renewableand environmentally-friendly products while ITMA remains the worlds mostestablished textile technology show in these challenging times.Organisations in the fibre and yarn sector supporting ITMA include the

Alexandria Cotton Exporters Association, Hong Kong Woollen & SyntheticKnitting Manufacturers Association, Peruvian Cotton Institute, Taiwan WoolTextile Industrial Association, the Hosiery Association (THA), as well asseveral African cotton boards. The Synthetic Yarn and Fibre Association

(SYFA) is another supporter of the new chapter.To date, over 1,100 applications from machinery manufacturers from 41economies have been received for ITMA 2011. The exhibition will be heldfrom September 22-29, at Fira de Barcelona Gran Va, Spain.

ItalianMachineryItalian machinery production hit2.2bn in 2010, an increase of 18%

compared with the previous year,according to figures published bythe Association of Italian TextileMachinery Manufacturers(ACIMIT). Whilst the value of machinery exports rose by 19%,from 1.5bn to 1.7bn, importsincreased 44% compared with2009, reaching 516m.

In 2010, the domestic marketfor textile machinery was worth

999m, compared with 784mthe previous year. Internationally,demand for Italian machinery wasmostly driven by sales in China,India and Turkey.

Indorama Ventures has acquiredGerman polyester manufacturerTrevira, through a joint venture withSinterama SpA. Indorama willbecome the majority partner,

whilst Sinterama will take amanagement role in the joint-

venture company.The acquisition comprises two

manufacturing sites in Germany, with a total capacity of 120,000tonnes per annum, and a plant in

Zielona Gra, Poland whichprocesses the fibres and filaments.

According to Indorama, the joint venture will provide comprehensiveand innovative solutions for appareland industrial applications of polyester worldwide. Aloke Lohia, group CEO of

Indorama Ventures, said: Thisacquisition will allow us to acquireone of Europe's best knownpolyester specialty fibres and yarnsbrands, further diversifying ourproduct offering to our customers.

Trevira has a research anddevelopment laboratory thatdevelops polymers and fibres andalready has many patents to itsname. This will make a good fit forour business as we will be able todevelop new value-added

products to meet customers'needs in the future.

"We have joined with a strong global pa rtner in Sinterama, which has many years of experience in specialty polyesterproducts that will help us toexpand further globally andattract new customers.

Founded in 1956 as the fibrebusiness of Hoechst chemicalcompany, Trevira manufacturespolyester fibres and filament yarnsfor the home textiles, apparel and

automotive industries, the hygienesector and other technicalapplications. The company hasaround 1,400 employees andturnover volume of approximately240m.Headquartered in Biella, Italy,

Sinterama manufactures dyedpolyester yarns for the automotive,home textile, apparel and technicalindustries. The company hasoperations in Italy, the UK, Turkey,

Brazil and China. A producer of PTA, PET and

polyester fibre, Indorama Venturesachieved annual consolidatedrevenue of $2.3bn in 2009 andemploys approximately 3,500people worldwide.

Henkel is to raise prices for itsindustrial adhesives by 10-25%,

with immediate effect. Priceincreases will vary according tomarket segment andtechnology. The companyattributes this decision to theongoing escalation of rawmaterial costs over the past 15months, which has particularlyaffected oil and natural gasbased products. Capacity

constraints on primarychemical, rosin and resin feedstocks is said to have furthertightened supply.

TenCateProfits LeapTenCate has reported profits of 46m in 2010, an increase of 92%,compared with 23.9m the previous

year.The companys sales in 2010

amounted to 985m, up from842m in 2009. On an autonomousbasis, sales increased by 10%. During 2010, the manufacturers earningsbefore tax rose by 109% to 85m. According to TenCate, its

protective fabrics and grass groupshowed the greatest sales growth.Sales of Defender M products hit

60m during the fourth quarter of 2010. In addition, earnings beforetax in the companys geosyntheticsand grass sectors increased by 87%to 31.4m

UK-IndiaInitiativeThe chief executive of the Society of Dyers and Colourists (SDC), SusieHargreaves, is among 20 businessleaders from the UK invited toparticipate in a new programmecalled Dishaa. Launched by BritishPrime Minister David Cameron in

July 2010, in Bangalore, India,Dishaa is an initiative intended to willexpand, enrich and energiserelations between India and the UK.By fostering discussion amongstdiverse leaders, it will build sharedapproaches to 21st century political,

economic and social challenges andexpand the existing partnerships,friendships and dialogues that arealready taking place. Dishaa is Hindifor direction.

Indorama Acquires TreviraITMA Signs

IWTO Partnership

AdhesivePrice Rise


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Bluestar Silicones is to expand itsmanufacturing and R&D operations inNorth America. As part of the investment, the

company has acquired a 147,000sqft former textile chemicals factory inCharlotte, North Carolina, to houseits two manufacturing sites currentlylocated in Ventura, California andRock Hill, South Carolina. The newsite, which sits on 19.4 acres, is

intended to offer Bluestar significantroom for growth. Transition to thisfacility is expected to be completeby 2013.

Bluestar plans to increaseemployment in its sales, marketing and technical service sectors by 25%over the next two years, at the newCharlotte facility.

Christopher York, president of Bluestar Silicones North America,said: The sizable footprint in

Charlotte will enable us to expandour manufacturing workshops,increase our laboratory space and

give us significant room to grow inexisting specialty markets and enternew markets. In addition, thisinvestment will greatly improve ourday-to-day operational efficiencies tobecome even more responsive to

market needs.

Bluestar intends to manufacturea range of silicone technologies atthe Charlotte facility, including liquid silicone rubbers (LSRs), highconsistency rubbers (HCRs), roomtemperature vulcanised silicones(RTVs), fluids, dispersions, releasecoatings, speciality fluids, resinsand antifoam.

APRIL 2011 7

The 50th Dornbirn Manmade Fibre Congress (MFC)is to offer visionary lectures from renownedacademics and lecturers from the fibre industry,according to organisers. A programme of 15lectures will cover high-tech projects planned forthe next 10 to 15 years.

Relating to the main theme of the congress, The next50 years, the whole lecture programme will feature atotal of 100 lectures focusing on future-orientatedinnovations in manmade fibres. The 50th DornbirnManmade Fibres Congress (Dornbirn-MFC) will beheld from September 14-16, in Dornbirn, Austria.

Monforts Textilmaschinen is to leaveits base at Schwalmstrasse,Mnchengladbach, after 127 yearsand relocate its headquarters at thenearby Schlafhorst Business Park,from May.

The finishing machinemanufacturer has rented a2,200sqm office premise, with aproduction area of approximately3,700sqm.

Klaus Heinrichs, Monforts vice

president, said: Of course there is acertain sadness at leaving thefamiliar location after so many years,but the business park offers us anenormous opportunity to make

better use of the new space availableand the improved infrastructure.

At the present time the companysdepartments are de-centrallyscattered over the whole companysite. We need to become morecentralised and closer to otherdepartments within the company.Similarly, the textile machineengineering company no longer hasany points of contact with the otherMonforts companies also located on

the Schwalmstrasse, even thoughthe textilers have remained astenants at the site, following thecompany takeover by the PossehlGroup in March 2006.

Benetton is to invest a total of 43.2m in the Serbian textileindustry, including the purchase of cotton-garmentmanufacturer Nitex and construction of a new factory for theproduction of its branded apparel.Benetton is expected to purchase Nitexs assets for 3m, becoming the official owner in March. The company then plans to demolish half of the Nitex facility in order to construct its own factory on the sitelocated in Nis, southern Serbia.Production is expected to start in May. It is forecast the new factory

will produce one million clothing items by the end of the year. At fullcapacity, projected annual turnover is expected to reach 72m, with

production mainly export-oriented.Benetton hopes to employ 2,700 workers over the next four years.The state will endorse the project with 9,000 for each newemployee hired.

DyStar has officially opened aliaison office in Dhaka, Bangladesh,

with the intention of developing new opportunities within theregions textile industry.

Ridha Najar, DyStar countrymanager, said: The new liaison

office complements and supports theexisting technical and commercialservices offered by our two agents inBangladesh. This is another strong sign from DyStar, following thedifficult period, which speaks of ourcommitment to the textile industry.

Dornbirn Vision

Monforts Relocates HQ

BluestarSilicones toExpand

Benetton Invests in Serbia

DyStar Bangladesh


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INTERNATIONAL DYER8

Local Colour

PULCRA CHEMICALS LLC,the US division of Dsseldorf,Germany-basedPulcra Chemicals,is experiencing some significantchanges in 2011.The company has anew president,

Brian Francois, andis moving into anewly renovatedfacility in Rock Hill,South Carolina.

Pulcra specialisesin chemicals for the fibre, textiles and leatherindustries. The companys textile chemicalstarget spinning, weaving, pretreatment, dyeing or printing, plus finishes for fabrics and

garments. The company also has an activetextiles product range for new-generation

functional clothes.Mr Francois, the US divisions former businessdirector, became president on January 1. Hesays the move will result in a gradual increase inthe operations staff. About 15 employees willbe added over the next couple of years,bringing employment to 45, he says.

Renovation of the companys new facility was due to be completed by the end of March. Pulcra spent $2.6 million to buy thebuilding from Iso-Chem Colors. The 58,000-square-foot facility, which is about 18 milessouth of the companys previous location, willinclude administrative office, a lab and

warehousing and a small manufacturing operation. Iso-Chem Colors moved itsoperation to Clover, South Carolina.

We will be doing some compounding andblending activities and some formulation, MrFrancois says.

Pulcra looked at several sites within a 200-mile radius of its previous facility andconsidered locations in both North and SouthCarolina. Mr Francois says the Rock Hill areaoffered a business-friendly climate. The

company had been leasing space in Charlotteand had been looking to acquire its own facilityfor a couple of years. Local tax incentives werealso part of the package that attracted Pulcra.

This facility fit from a space perspective, MrFrancois says. One of our biggest strengths isour people and this location presented the leastdisruption for our people. Weve been working hard on developing our culture and our peoplehave been the centre of that since we werecarved out of Cognis.

Pulcra was created when Cognis sold itstextile chemicals business to Fashion ChemicalsGmbH in 2008. It was previously the Process

Chemicals strategic business unit of Cognis.Pulcra has operations in 12 countries.

The company can now supplement its supplychain with additional in-house production. Thenew manufacturing and warehousing capability

will be online in the second quarter of 2011.Mr Francois says business for the US division,

which serves North and Central Americacustomers, has been improving since last year.

Our business last year was good globally, all year round, Mr Francois says. We are pretty

confident this year will be similar to 2010. OurUS business has been doing quite well all of last

year and so far this year. There are only a certainnumber of customers left in the US and those

guys pretty much have all of the business.Mr Francois says Pulcras US customers are a

mixed bag of companies, ranging fromtechnical-textile specialists, to speciality

garment manufacturers to fibre manufacturers.The texturised-yarn business has been

booming for the last year with companies likeUnifi and Dillon Yarns. There is a lot of polyester

going into carpet and more and more itsreplacing polypropylene. We are doing a lot of business on the fibre side in the carpet area.

Pulcras Central American business is also onthe rise.

We started in Honduras a couple of yearsago and we are now expending more into otherparts of Central America. A lot more of theCentral America business is controlled fromNorth American companies and we are finding more success selling into Central America. Our

goal is to provide solutions to specificcustomers. Our production is based on projectsfor key customers. ID

Pulcras US Expansion

One of our biggeststrengths is our people

and this locationpresented the least

disruption

From JohnMcCurry,

North AmericaCorrespondent

The American Textile Machinery Association(ATMA) and Messe Frankfurt USA have agreedon the inclusion of American Textile MachineryExhibition International (ATME-I) with Techtextil

North America, every even year from 2012.The two exhibitions were last run together inMay 2010, in Atlanta, Georgia, USA. ATME-I is intended to provide textile

machinery, equipment and service suppliers a

broad textile and apparels industry base toshowcase their products and services.

David Audrain, president of Messe Frankfurt,said: We are extremely pleased with ATMAs

decision to continue the successful relationshipbegun last year. Building on the launch of Texprocess Americas we believe that theexpansion of Techtextil North America to include

ATME-I creates the most important co-location

of textile industry events in the Americas.Our goal is to give buyers the best value for

their time investment, which means providing them with the most comprehensive selection

of manufacturers at our respective shows.This agreement follows the launch last

year of Texprocess Americas incorporat ing SPESA Expo, the sewn products andequipment trade show.

ATME-I and Techtextil Co-location Confirmed

Industry News


11/56

APRIL 2011 9

Dyes & Chemicals News

The US National Advertising Division of the Council of Better Business (NAD) hasrecommended that Nano-Tex and Applied Textilesdiscontinue a wide range of advertising claims concerning three fabric-finishing products.The investigation follows a

challenge from Crypton Inc, acompeting textilemanufacturer.The products in question areNano-Tex, a soil- and stain-resistant finishing, Nano-Tex withDurablock, designed to protectagainst liquid spills, and Nano-Tex

with BioAM, an antimicrobialfinish. Applied Textilesmanufactures fabric treated withthese Nano-Tex finishes.The NAD review focused onprint and internet advertising claims that the treated fabric

was certified, compliant, orapproved by federal agencies,including the EnvironmentalProtection Agency (EPA),Occupational Safety andHealth Administration (OSHA),and the Consumer Products

Safety Commission (CPSC).NAD also examined claimsmade by Applied Textiles, thatits competitors products werenot recyclable and containedharsh chemicals, whilst Nano-Tex was virtually chemicalfree. Other contentious claimsincluded the suggestion that

Nano-Tex + BioAM productscould mitigate disease,infection or pathologicalconditions.Following its review, NADrecommended that theadvertisers discontinue claimsthat these products arecertified by OHSA or CSPC, orthat they meet environmentalstandards established by theOeko-Tex Standard 100.NAD further suggested that theadvertisers should cease fromclaiming that Nano-Tex +BioAM is EPA Approved orEPA Registered. However,NAD noted, nothing in itsdecision prevents theadvertisers from claiming thatBioAM is an antimicrobialregistered with the EPA.

Furthermore, NADrecommended Applied Textilesdiscontinue a variety of otherclaims, which include thesuggestion that itscompetitors products werenot recyclable and cost fivetimes as much as Nano-Tex

with Durablock.

In an advertisers statement, Applied Textile s said:Although we disagree withmany of the NADs recommen-dations, we absolutely supportthe self-regulatory process and

great ly appreciate the NADstime and effort they put intotheir decision. Accordingly, we

will take into consideration theNADs recommendations forall future advertisements andprint documents.Nano-Tex, in its advertisersstatement, said: Nano-Tex agrees to comply with theNADs recommendations tomodify its statementsconcerning OSHA and CSPCcompliance and eliminatereferences to its product being Oeko-Tex compliant.

Nano-Tex toDiscontinue Ad Claims

EU to Phaseout FlameRetardantThe EU is to ban six substances of

very high concern (SVHCs), including the flame retardant hexabromocy-clododecane (HBCDD), within thenext three to five years, unlessauthorisation has been granted fortheir use.

The five other substances are: 5-ter-butyl-2,4,6-trinito-m-xylene(musk xylene), 4,4'-diaminodiphenyl-methane (MDA), bis(2-ethylexyl)phthalate (DEHP), benzyl butyl

phthalate (BBP) and dibutylphthalate (DBP).

These substances are said to beeither carcinogenic, toxic forreproduction or persist in theenvironment and accumulate inliving organisms. The six substanceshave been moved from thecandidate list to the authorisationlist, known as Annex XIV, under theEU's REACH regulation (Registration,Evaluation, Authorisation andRestriction of Chemicals). Antonio Tajani, European

Commission vice-president, said:Todays decision is an example of the successful implementation of REACH and of how sustainability canbe combined with competitiveness.It will encourage industry to developalternatives and foster innovation.

Operators wishing to sell or usethese substances will need todemonstrate the required safetymeasures have been taken, or thatthe benefits for the economy andsociety outweigh the risks. If not,alternative substances or techniquesmust be sought. Additional substances will be

added to Annex XIV in the future,the objective of which is to controlthe risks from substances of veryhigh concern. Janez Poto nik, Environment

Commissioner, said: Chemicalsare everywhere in the modern

world and some of them can be very dangerous. Today's decisionis an important step towardsbetter protecting our health andthe environment.

Alexium, a developer ofreactive surface technology(RST), has begun commercialproduction of its Cleanshelltextile-treatment process.

A water- and oil-repel lenttreatment for textiles, Cleanshellis based on Alexium's RSTprocess, which uses microwavetechnology for rapid application.

Fabric fibres are protected by ananoscopic coating, said to beable to withstand heavy usageand laundering.

The treatment can be applied to

synthetic fabrics such aspolyester, nylon, ballistic-protection and flame-retardantaramids, as well as natural fabricslike cashmere, cotton and wool.

Accord ing to Alexium,Cleanshell offers liquid repellency

whilst st ill preserving the b reatha-bility, hand and drape of thefabric. So far textiles treated

using this process have beenmade repellent to gasoline,diesel, jet fuel, cooking oils,acids, solvents, oxidisers and

water, said Alexium.

Alexium TreatmentCommercialised


12/56

INTERNATIONAL DYER10

Dyes & Chemicals News

US-based Manufacturers Chemicals LLC (MCLLC), amanufacturer of speciality chemicals and chemicalintermediates for the textile industry, hasdeveloped a range of functional chemicals andsurfactants made from vegetable and animal feedstocks, clay and sand, and is launching them underthe new EcoCare brand.

The chemicals are produced using a variety of natural oils, including soybean, corn, fish, coconutand olive oil, as well as speciality plant and animalextracts.

Chuck Steig, president of MCLLC, said: For years we have been quiet ly d eveloping chemical modifi-cation capabilities to make functional auxiliariesand surfactants from natural materials. Two yearsago we began formulating these products toreplace synthetic chemicals as a green initiative.

Our sales force instantly sold many of these newmaterial concepts to customers, which spurredmore development and sales. Our effortmushroomed and oversold our capacity so wecalled time out. This year we opened a significantnew expansion to accommodate these newchemistries. We are now ready to launch under theEcoCare flag and trade name.

MCLLC has also developed a series of highperformance EcoCare textile products. The rangeincludes a polyester levelling agent designed toreplace nonylphenol derivatives, two nylon levelling agents and an engineered levelling agent for Sorona

fibre developed by Mohawk Industries.In addition, MCLLC has manufactured an

antifoam made from 99.3% renewable materials, as

wel l as a bleaching/scouring system for cottonmade from clay. The company is also currently

work ing on natural waxes to replace petroleum waxes used as lubricant s and water repellents intextile finishing.

Chemicals fromNatural Oils

Corn oil is functionalised in a laboratory reaction. Pictured isGreg Right, manufacturing quality chemist

R&D chemist Erlene White makes a natural oil defoamer

MCLLC vice-president Mike Junkins compares the levellingperformance of EcoCare chemistry to nonylphenol chemistry

MosquitoRepellentResearchThe European Union is to invest 4.2m in a research project todevelop new textile materials

with the ability to effectivelyrepel mosquitoes. Its goal is todeal with the problemsassociated with existing impregnated insect repelling materials, including their toxins,resistance amongst insects andshort release lifetimes.

Now the NO BUG project isassessing novel bio-repellents,plus new release systemsinvolving multilayer coatings andtextile bio-aggregates. A European Commission note

said: The project willstudythe best conditions of use of the biorepellents and howto integrate them in textileproducts.

The European Parliament and theEuropean Union (EU) Council of Ministers are negotiating the finaltext of a new EU biocidal-products directive, controlling biocides in textiles.Ministers want special authori-

sations for biocides to be phasedin from 2013 to 2020, whenmost biocides would be covered.Both MEPs and ministers havenow agreed versions of the lawand they are debating removing inconsistencies.

A council communiqu noted:Everyday products, forinstance sleeping bags, sofas orsmell-free socks, are treated

with biocidal substances.

EU to

ReformBiocideDirective


13/56

APRIL 2011

Germanys Fraunhofer Institute for Environmental,Safety and Energy Technology has conducted researchinvestigating how carbon dioxide, at a temperature of 30.1C and pressure of 73.8 bar, can become aneffective dye carrier. According to the Institute, the carbon dioxide goes

into a supercritical state that gives the gas solvent-likeproperties, meaning it can be introduced intopolymers. The team also found that dyes, additives,medical compounds and other substances can bedissolved into the gas.

Alps Industries, an Indian manufacturerof yarns, home furnishing, natural dyesand accessories, has begun using Huntsman Textile Effects Avitera SEreactive dyes and Eriopon LT additive,following the signing of a strategic-partnership agreement between the twocompanies last year.Used in combination with the Eriopon LT

clearing additive, the Avitera SE reactivedyes series have been designed tooperate at low temperatures, with noneed to exceed 60C. The process,intended for cellulosic fibres and theirblends, uses short dyeing and washing cycles to reduce water consumption,save time, energy and cut carbondioxide emissions by up to 50%, saidHuntsman.High solubility means the Avitera SEreactive dyes can be applied at ultra-short liquor ratios, ensuring lowerprocessing costs, said the manufacturer.

With good compatibility and lowsensitivity to dyeing parameters, thedyes as said to provide excellent lab-to-bulk and bulk-to-bulk shadereproducibility, minimising the need forreprocessing.Sandeep Agarwal, Alps Industriesmanaging director, said: The Avitera SEand Eriopon LT system are revolutionaryinnovations designed to meet newstandards of environmental sustain-

ability and Alps Industries will use thisclean technology to take a step inenvironmental savings.

According to Huntsman, if used inconjunction with its Gentle PowerBleach pre-treatment, the dyeing technology is improved in terms of sustainability and cost management.The enzyme system is said to offer

dependable, low-temperature bleaching at a neutral pH. During pre-treatmentlower treatment and rinsing temper-atures can cut water and energyconsumption by 40%, said Huntsman.Stephen Gray, vice-president of researchand technology, said: This ground-breaking new technology, which allows

water and energy savings of 50%, is anopportunity for mills, brands andretailers to make a real difference.Avitera SE dyes and Eriopon LT have aunique set of properties that ensuremuch lower processing costs, yet high-quality results and greatly improvedenvironmental acceptability. All of thesebenefits make a key contribution tosustainability in textile processing.Established in 1962, Alps Industriesoperates eight production facilities,employing over 4,000 people. A supplier of functional car upholstery,

Alps is also one of Indias largest home-textile exporters, with an annualturnover of $200m.

Maidenform Brands has signedan agreement with nanotechspecialist Nano-Tex to becomethe exclusive distributor of intimate apparel productsincorporating the companys

Neutralizer techno logy.The Neutralizer fabric is

designed to wick away moistureand dry quickly, therebyneutralising odours.

Maidenform inNano-Tex Deal

Alps Adopts Advanced Dyes

Research into CO 2Dye Fixing

Dye & Chemical Company LtdPERFORMANCE DYES & CHEMICALS

Tel: +44 (0) 1484 401221Fax: +44 (0) 1484 401844E-mail: [email protected]: www.avocetdyes.com

EMS ISO 14001:2004Cert No. EMS 551065

ISO 9001:2000Cert No. FM 10430


14/56


Techincal Briefing: Military Fabrics

MODERNPROTECTIVEfabrics must bemultifunctional inorder to combatthe many differentthreats andhazards posed byhostileenvironments.Uniforms for the

military, policeand fire brigadesface a complex combination of challenges in

widely differing scenarios.

Above all , the uniform must p rovideprotection but, in addition, it must bedurable and also comfortable to wear, boththermophysically and thermophysiolog-ically. The maintenance of the high level of protection and other performance charac-teristics must also not be decreased by

garment af tercare treatments, eg.laundering and for military uniformsespecially, by laundering under fieldconditions. 1,2

Typical of modern military requirementsfor the next-generation battle-dressuniform (BDU) are the performancerequirements laid down by the IndividualProtection Directorate at the US ArmyNatick Soldier Research, Development andEngineering Centre 3 ; namely, the battle-

dress uniform should be:

Waterproof Flame resistant Built-in insect-repellent; and incorporate

Antimicrobials to protect injuriesfrom infection

Chemical and biological agent protection Suppress odours Warmer in winter Cooler in summer, and Lighter and less bulky than current

uniforms.

Such a complex list of performancerequirements poses a series of daunting

challenges for textile scientists, technol-ogists and engineers, particularly inproviding multifunctionality withoutadverse effects upon comfort in wear and,in addition, maintaining the durability of the performance over the wear/wash life of the uniform. Inevitably, performancecompromises will have to be made,especially if the fabric of the uniform mustalso maintain a low noise threshold during physical act ivity.

Apart from milita ry textiles there aremany other outlets for protectivetextiles 1 , eg.

Space suits Cut/slash-resistant garments Aprons Gloves Footwear Clean room Chemical-hazard protective garments Anti-ballistic protection

These are used in a variety of end uses,

eg. police force, security, chemical,medical and industrial applications.

In terms of high-risk applications, theuse of flexible textile materials as part of aballistic-protection system can be valuable,

although this is a complex field in whichmultiple layers of fabric, often combined

with resins and/or laminates, can p rovideresistance to projectiles such as bullets,shrapnel, etc. 1,2,4 A woven fabricdistributes energy at the interlacing pointsand the use of resins can prevent theprojectile shock wave from displacing thefibres out of the path of the projectile. Inthis way the energy of the projectile isabsorbed and dissipated.

Energy dissipation is enhanced if largernumbers of fibres are involved and, thus,in nonwoven materials designed forballistic protection, fibre friction can behelpful in this respect. 2 The use of surfacefinishes that can increase interfibre frictionmay therefore be of value in increasing energy absorption. Needlepunchednonwoven fabrics, for example, will absorbenergy by dissipating it through threemajor processes, namely elongation of thefibres, fibre slippage and fibre breakage.Thus the use of chemical coatings thatcould increase the number of interfibrebinding points in the fibre matrix couldincrease the energy dissipation becausethen the impact energy will be distributedover a larger number of fibres and a

greater fabric area.

Microporous MembranesNovel composite materials for personalprotective equipment (PPE) have recentlybeen devised at the Institute for Materials,Research and Innovation, the University of

Bolton, UK. 5 Traditional semi-permeableprotective clothing ensembles used by thepolice and armed forces are constructed of many layers of clothing to provide acomplete barrier to a wide spectrum of

Protection in aHostile Setting Advanced Textiles for Military and High Risk Applications

ByDr Ian Holme,

Technical Editor


15/56

APRIL 2011 13

nuclear, biological and chemical (NBC)agents and hazards. In practice suchequipment tends to be very heavy anduncomfortable to wear, because themany layers restrict the transfer of moisture, vapour and heat through the

various layers .The research at the University of Bolton

has been directed towards two mainobjectives to decrease the overall weightof the PPE, and to improve the barrierproperties whilst still maintaining theirdesirable thermophysiological properties. 5

In order to achieve these objectives various different microporous andsolution-diffusion membranes were

investigated, as individual layers or aslaminates of two or more layers, to providechemical/biological resistance. In addition,further studies incorporated research intonovel three-dimensional knitted spacermaterials to provide a fire-retardant andheat-barrier outer layer.

It was determined that the use of a two-layer configuration of a specialhydrophobic-coated polytetrafluo-roethylene (PTFE) membrane with around1.4 billion minute holes per square

centimetre was able to provide over 100per cent improvement in chemicalresistance in comparison with a laminatecurrently used in this field. 5 The use of thenovel three-dimensional weft knittedspacer fabric generated an air layer withinthe fabric structure that providedadditional resistance to heat transfer. Intests in which the spacer fabric wassubjected to a heat flux of 30kW/cm 2 forten seconds there was a 63% reduction inthe heat transfer through the fabric. Evenat 40kW/cm 2 the heat transfer wasdecreased by 49%.

Extraordinary PerformanceMultifunctionality may be imparted tomilitary textiles using Alexium InternationalGroup Ltds RST (Reactive SurfaceTreatment) technology. 3,8 This can beutilised to impart extraordinaryperformance to ordinary textiles, including machine washability, self-extinguishing properties in a fire, superhydrophobicity,superoleophobicity and chemical and

biological agent reactivity. Developed witha US$30+ million investment by the USDepartment of Defence, the Alexium RSTtechnology process is claimed to be fast,has a low energy requirement, is environ-

mentally compliant and cost-effective.

Any combination of chemical precursorsmay be applied using microwave radiation todirect precursor polymerisation on to asubstrate surface. This gentle curing processallows the attachment of thermally sensitiveprecursors by polymer grafting to thesubstrate surface, which can be a wide

variety of textile fibres, either natural,regenerated or synthetic. The next-

generation RST applicator is currently underdevelopment and an initial European-basedRST unit is to be installed in 2011.

Enzymatic Processing Multifunctional, multilayer textiles havebeen developed for the healthcare sector

with protective barrier propertie s andenhanced wearing comfort. The action of enzymes with esterase activity has beenutilised to provide improved breathabilityand antistatic properties. 6 Suchperformance characteristics are especiallyimportant for the healthcare sector, formaterials such as surgical gowns, wounddressings, drapes and bed linen.

Research by Inotex (Czech Republic)has led to the development of biofunction-alised laminated textiles containing alightweight, breathable non-porousmembrane as an interlining layer, inbetween the supporting inner and thefunctional outer layer. 6 Lamination of

various f ibrous webs using a heatedcalender produced a laminatedstructure consisting of a supporting separative inner layer, a thermo-adhesivecopolymer net (EVA-ethylene vinyl acetate)

polyester, an enzyme-treated polyesternon-porous membrane, a secondthermo-adhesive copolymer net and theouter polyester layer.

Enzymatic processing of the polyester

substrates with esterase (TEXAZYM PES Inotex) at 30-35C, or cutinase (TEXAZYMCP Inotex), at 50-55C for 30-60 minutesin the pH range 4.5-5.5 and at a liquorratio of 1:10, led to the production of newhydrophilic groups (eg. carboxyl andhydroxyl groups), created by selectiveester-bond breakage. 6 This improved themoisture-transport and antistaticproperties. Enzyme treatment was alsofound to substantially decrease linting, animportant factor in the cleanroomproduction sector. The breathability of thepolybutylene terephthalate (PBT)membrane was enhanced by enzymetreatment, while the antistatic nature of

the outer polyethylene terephthalate layersupport was similarly improved.

Antimicrobial p roperties could beachieved through the use of antimicrobialpolyester fibre or through application of aquaternary ammonium antimicrobial suchas dimethyltetradecyl [3-(trimethylsilyl)propyl] ammonium chloride to enzymat-ically preactivated polyester. 6 Thedurability of the bound antimicrobial isachieved through covalent bonding via thepolyester hydroxyl groups, ionic bonding

via the ni trogen cations of the antimi-crobial and the carboxyl groups of thefibre, and silyl cross-linking reactions.

Insecticide TreatmentIn many regions of the world there is nowa high risk of disease transmitted frominsects, and the health risks associated

with being bitten by paras itic-infectedfemale Anopheles mosquitoes that causemalaria are well known. Less well knownare leishmaniasis caused by the bite of infected female phlebotomine sandfliesand Lyme disease caused by the bite of infected ticks. Other insects regarded as anuisance are lice and fleas.

Protection against such disease vectorsis of growing importance for militarytextiles such as battledress uniforms, tentsfor military/civilian applications, and alsooutdoorwear for travellers and tourists. 7

For battledress uniforms it is important thatany anti-insect treatment is durable to

washing as well as provid ing a good insectknock-down and knock-dead effect. Many

potential insecticides cannot be usedbecause they are harmful to human healthand/or they are not durable to washing.

EULAN SPA 01, a synthetic pyrethroid

Continued on page 16

Alexium RST technology


16/56



RECOGNISED AS South East Asias largestintegrated, vertical textile and garmentmanufacturing company, and as one of the

worlds leading producers of militaryuniforms, P.T. Sri Rejeki Isman (Sritex) hastaken delivery of its latest two Montex stenters. Ordered through local represen-tative P.T. Primatek Technologies, they bring the companys total to eight.

Sritex has its origins in a 3m x 3m fabricstall, set up in 1966 by its founder, H.M.Lukminto, in the Solo city textile market, in

central Indonesia. From these humblebeginnings, Mr Lukminto introduced thehand piece-dyeing of fabrics and, by 1970,had moved into a new factory, introducing more advanced dyeing and printing techniques. In 1978 the business moved tolarger premises.

Problems with green issues, including

wastewater, meant a further move to a 10-hectare greenfield site, but with operationsstill concentrating on dyeing and printing forlocal traders and wholesalers.

By the early 90s the company wasseeking export markets particularly in theMiddle East and US producing 3 millionmetres a month. The decade saw evenmore expansion, with the introduction of spinning and weaving operations, featuring 60,000 spindles. Within 10 years thecompany with increased spinning

capabilities was dyeing and preparing 12million metres for printing.Today the company has over 200,000

spindles and over 4,500 weaving machines,producing 20 million metres of fabric and1.7 million garments a month.

It was during the 1970s that Sritex introduced finishing operations, using a mix

of Japanese and Taiwanese stenters andintroducing its first European marque.

Recognising the quality attained with thesuperior European-manufactured stenters,Mr Lukminto introduced the companys firstMonforts Montex in the early 1990s.

Today, in addition to its eight Monfortsstenters, the company also has a Thermex and Sanforiser in its production process.

According to the founders son andcurrent company president, Iwan S.Lukminto: We have grown to recognise the

superior quality robust strength and after-service back-up provided by Monforts andtheir representative Primatek.

Even in those early days, said MrLukminto, my father recognised that weneeded reliable machinery and great back-up; we have not been disappointed.

Iwan today recalls joining his father as achild, working on the market stall andlearning the business. He joined thecompany, after graduating in 1997, as a 23-

year-old assistant director and subsequentlybecame president, taking the day-to-daypressure off his father. Now into his 60s,the elder Mr Lukminto still plays an activerole in the companys business.

Military UniformsToday, the company is recognised as a leading producer of military uniforms, supplying to nofewer then 26 countries worldwide. Thecompany is an authorised licensed printer forthe German Army and regularly supplies toseveral armed forces in Europe.

It was my father who first recognised the

potential for military uniforms, said IwanLukminto. He saw that the Indonesianarmy needed more quality uniforms to ahigher requirement which at the time wecould not meet.

Investment MeetsQuality DemandsSritex has grown from a market stall tobecome a South East Asian giant

Military uniforms incorporating Sritex fabrics


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APRIL 2011

We therefore learnt about quality. This led to an enquiry fromGermany.

It was a totally different market to fashion wear, with themilitary demanding a higher performance and durability with, forexample, an anti-mosquito finish and infra-red reflectance.

Another factor was stability of colour, particularly withcamouflage uniforms.

Mr Lukminto added: Today the requirements from the militaryare getting even higher, with narrower tolerance and colourfastness.

In order to meet these demands, Sritex found it essential toupgrade its machinery and develop and modify new strategies tomeet the increased standards.

Germany is today still a key customer, with the Bundeswehr Authority bi-annually inspecting quality and systems, environ-mental issues, compliance with human rights and corporatesocial responsibility. Following its last inspection, six months ago,the company was praised for its quality being higher than being produced in Europe.

Finishing ProcessThe latest 10-chamber Montex stenters feature the latest energy-saving technology, including the heat-recovery system now fitted

as standard on Monforts stenters, providing up to 30% savings.Energy saving is today a key aspect of the business, said Mr

Lukminto. Each Montex stenter is receiving at least two passesand frequently three.

The first pass is for setting and the second for finishing;

Montex stenters at Sritex


18/56



insecticide from Tanatex Chemicals (TheNetherlands) utilises permethrin as theactive ingredient. 7 Produced in twostereoisomeric forms, the cis:trans ratio of the isomers is 25:75. These activeingredients are not toxic to mostmammals and textiles treated with EULANSPA 01 are Oeko-Tex Standard 100approved. Thus, this anti-insect treatmentcan be applied to uniforms that are incontact with the skin, the EULAN SPA 01being bound to the fibres using polymericbinders such as acrylates, polyvinylacetate, or a specially selected urethanebinder, Baypret Nano-PU.

Baypret Nano-PU is a low-temperature-curable soft urethane binder that is applied

with EULAN SPA 01 by dip padding,followed by drying at 120C and curing at140C.7 This special binder forms flexibleinterfibrillar bridges between the fibres inthe fabric, which leads to an improvement

in fabric strength and in rubbing fastness.The handle imparted by Baypret Nano-PUis noticeably softer than that of acrylatebinders and the urethane binder imparts

good durability of the permethrin to homelaundering at 40C. Importantly, the

incorporation of EULAN SPA 01 withinthe Baypret Nano-PU does not lead to anydecrease in bioactivity. Bioactivity testsagainst yellow-fever mosquitoes delivereda 100% knock-down effect in less time

when the urethane binder was present. ID

however, with so many special treatments,a third pass is frequently necessary. Thesetreatments can include water-repellent,insect-repellent, flame-retardant, stain-defender, anti-infra-red and breathablefinishes for the uniform fabrics.

The fabrics pass through the stenter atspeeds dependent on the weight. Typically,for example, a 140gsm fabric will run at70m/min. Fabric weights ranging from100gsm to 400gsm are processed.

For camouflage fabrics, both a dye and aprint process can be used, printing up totwelve colours.

In 2006, Sritex also introduced arange of tents for the Indonesian militaryand Red Cross. Using 300gsm polyester

with a PU-coating retardant to offerresistance to rain, the fabric is alsolaminated all finished on the Montex stenters in 180cm widths.

The company also continues to produce

fabrics such as 100% rayon and blendedcotton denim, stretch fabrics with Lycraand dobby jacquard fabrics in finished

widths between 36 and 63 inches, forladies fashion wear.

Currently, close to 5 million metres a monthis produced for export to the USA, Europe,

Asia and the Middle East. Additionally some isproduced for in-house make-up for localsuppliers and Asian markets.

Future PlansFor the future, disclosed Mr Lukminto,there are plans to expand the spinning mills, looking at 180,000 new spindles onan adjacent greenfield site.

We also plan to expand our fibreplant, becoming even more vertically

integrated, he said. We also see anincrease in sale of yarn into, for example,Europe, Brazil and America.

We have also noticed a trend incustomers wanting faster delivery times tomeet lead times, particularly for fashion

wear. We are therefore even moredependent on the quality and reliability of the Monforts stenters. ID

Iwan Lukminto

1. RA Scott, in Textiles for Protection ed. RA Scott (Woodhead Publishing Ltd;Cambridge, UK, 2005) 597.

2. GA Thomas in Military Textiles ed. E Wilusz (Woodhead Publishing Ltd; Cambridge,UK, 2008) 17.

3. J Almond, Proceedings, TCL2010: International Conference on Textile Coating andLaminating, 4-5 November 2010, Cannes, France (on CD-ROM).

4. X Chen and I Chaudhry, see Reference 1, p529.5. SC Anand, M Seed, B Kandola and J Timmis, Proceedings of the Textile Institute Centenary

Conference, Textiles: A Global Vision, 3-4 November 2010, Manchester, UK (on CD-ROM).

6. L Martinkov and J Marek, Proceedings of the 22nd IFATCC International Congress, 5-7May 2010, Stresa, Italy (on CD-ROM).

7. J Cleyman, International Dyer, 195(2) March (2010) 23.8. International Dyer, 195(2) March (2010) 21.

Continued from page 13

References:

Investment MeetsQuality Demands


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APRIL 2011 17

VISITOR NUMBERS to the Pitti Immagine Filatiexhibition in Florence, in February, showed anincrease in from almost all countries, especiallythe rapidly developing markets. Confidence inthe standard and complexity of new designs

was very firm, with many companies registering substantial growth last year.

However, this was all mitigated by the priceof fibre, which was the major talking point,betraying anxieties across the board aboutscarcities and subsequent price rises, and howto handle them. Many said the price rises,applying to nearly all fibres, natural and man-made, were so steep that there wasuncertainty about how they would settledown, and what effect this would have on thecrucial timings of the trade.

Colour played a major part in bolstering themood of buyers, despite uncertainties over

where prices would end up, with a bright and

optimistic palette of both pastels and richertones put alongside delicate whites andneutrals. Although the tones and shades of thecolours covered very different areas, fromneutrals through pastels to brights, there was a

coherence about the approach, a consensus oncolour areas, and an acknowledgement thatsophisticated approaches to yarn compositionand creation are playing a more important part.

This reflects the fact that the top brands areseeking to distinguish themselves to an even

greater extent from lower-cost competitors byincreased research and expenditure ondevelopment.

Flower ColoursFew colours were simple, a fact that could beappreciated by the vastly different namesdesigners called them. They were often basedon flower colours, including cornflower blue,hibiscus and fuchsia, various shades of yellow,from lemon to Van-Gogh hues, orange fromfruity tones to peach and brick, and a wide

variety of naturals with undyed knops andpastoral greens, from a very light aqua tint to a

grass-like hue. Yarns, too, varied in both composition and

thickness. Very fine yarns for gossamer fine knitscontrasted with thicker, but still-soft qualities fora more traditional look, which is already popular

and predicted to carry through for the newseason, exploiting traditional knits in modern,soft and lightweight yarns. Olimpiasincorporated technical features with specialtwists and high twists, given an extra-dry handleby gassing.

Yarns with technical features were found inmany collections, such as water-repellent linenat CTF, or linen with 25% polyamide at Ecafil ,for a shine. Lineapius new performance yarn,containing pearl dust, is said to enhance thesmoothness of skin. Tintoria di Quaregna ,the innovative dyers who have pioneerednatural substances, having the first and onlynatural-colour technology in the worldapproved by Woolmark, showed ever-more-complex and sophisticated ranges of colours,including brighter shades. Its Make up,featuring special finishing effects, now has alarge range of cosmetic powders, which are

applied to yarns and fabrics, producing a shineand extra-bright tones.

Newcomers to Pitti Filati, Reiko of Japan,introduced brand-new delicate yarn,modal/polyester Kaitos with a silk look,

Colour and Style, Ancient and ModernPitti Immagine Filati reveals dyeing and finishing trends forSpring/Summer 2012

By Janet Prescott

Show Report: Pitti Filati

Artisan looks by Ormo Make-up colours, cosmetic powders applied to yarns, by Tintoria di Quaregna


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Show Report: Pitti Filati

having a metallic core placed in the centre of the yarn, leading to less hair, more softnessand a resistance to pilling, which causedmuch interest.

Todd & Duncans woollen spun yarns had a very pleasing colour palette, described as

combining optimism and nostalgia, with newlooks in cotton, linen and Lurex blends. Colour groups included a white-based collection, fromdusty colours to clear, sundried looks with afaded aspect, and greens including oliveshades. There were also brights like bubblegumpink and lime green. Reds and oranges, seenfrequently for summer 2012, were teamed

with browns and navies. Wine colours were given vineyard names at Cariaggi , indicating the wide variety of tones available, likeGrenache, Bourgogne and Shiraz.

Natural DyesNatural dyes from Tintoria di Quaregna aremore and more popular in the luxury area,and included a bigger range of herbs,including alkanet, tansy, turmeric andblackberry fast and resistant withoutchemical products. The Naturale range canbe applied to wool, cashmere, mohair,cotton and silk, and is skin allergy tested.

Particularly prevalent throughout the Filaticollections were blues, from electric blue to lilacat Olimpias ; aqua watercolours to navy at Todd

& Duncan. Zegna Baruffa had made its bluesmore brilliant, to be co-ordinated with delavcolours, and wool/silk blends lent a brilliant look.

Recycled yarn is gathering momentum. PinoriFilati showed recycled denim, whereby zips and

buttons are removed and the fibres reduced,spun and knitted, retaining their original colour.Filpucci is producing silk yarn from sari-silk

waste, emphasising ethnic looks and colours.Cariaggi also majored on translucent colour, asif seen through glass.

Gold is a key colour for 2012. Cariaggis versions came in both yellow and saffron

shades. Gold at Lineapiu was knitted intopleated constructions in a more-substantial,thicker fabric with drape, sometimes withmetallic elements, while other yarns werecovered with a Lurex mesh. Gold tones, as well

as shades of sand and brick, resulted in classic,slightly retro looks, which caught the moment atZegna Baruffa, in cashmere/viscose and

wool/viscose versions. Botto Paola collectionsshowed golden yarns in 100% silk, and also in50/50 with cotton/viscose or wool/viscoseeffects, the latter in a very fine tight knit for anelegant result.

Viscose Yarns Viscose was used extensively in the Lineapiucollections and also at Filpucci , famous for itscouture and top-brand viscrepe yarns, in

Raffia looks by Millefili: yarns as decoration

The 2012 season's colours, by Filati Power

Linen marls at Todd & Duncan


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APRIL 2011 19

mesh designs and in constructions exploiting its inherent drape. Viscose at Olimpias had aunique, slightly rubbery handle. Spice tonesand the colours of whiskies gave a moresophisticated palette, teamed with a wide

variety of greys. Sand tones and desert-inspired gradations of colour sometimes hadmicro effects for texture. Collections often

made reference to minerals, from rock tosandstone to gemstones.

Iafil showed their research work with ShimaSeiki. New software can produce computer

versions of scanned fabric, which look as three-

dimensional as the real thing, and designers caninstantly alter the elements of a pattern,including design and colour, stored in thememory on a colour-management system toreduce the time needed for colour matching.The machinery is instantly programmed, withchanges made, to produce the new sample, asaving of both time and money and a bespoke

approach for the customer.

Raw MaterialsSpinners emphasised the quality of their rawmaterials; longer-length cotton staple, named

wool such as New Zealand Zque or CariaggisBelize cotton. The linen might look raw butoften had techno features, with tie-dyed orcamouflage effects as well as devor surfaces.

Botto Paola has produced a limited-edition13.5 micron wool in very fine counts. Olimpias

presented luxury-cotton yarns and also technofeatures with cool wool and blends, and luxuryMako cotton with a silky effect. Extrafine andsuperfine merino was blended with silk andcashmere for a fluid look.

Blends continue to dominate. Vintage , anadjective used frequently, usually denoted silk used with another fibre, like Botto Giuseppeselegant linen/silk mix in bicolours. Loro Pianacombined man-made with natural for tactile andcolour effects, where linen was combined withbrighter fibres like silk or polyamide. Linen andcotton were seen in linear structures at Lineapiuand stripes were popular constructions.

Filati Power showed cashmere/silk 70/30,or Luxor cotton blends, 85 with 15% cashmerefor a luxurious approach to casualwear thelines between this and formalwear being increasingly blurred.

With cotton becoming, as Filpucci stated, aluxury fibre, viscose remains a favourite,benefiting from sustained development. There

were also irregular yarns with Lurex glints,lustrous, springy versions and linen finishedroughly for ethnic looks. Crepey handles and dry

finishes also abounded. Vintage was a word on everyones lips, but

this was smart, neoclassic vintage, theessence of style backed by both ancient andmodern techniques. ID

Natural dyes with subtle shading, by Tintoria di Quaregna

12-gauge knit in polyester with sequins - yarn by Di VE in the trend area

Pinks and reds, Todd & Duncan


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APRIL 2011 21

The Indian Textile Association is to

stage its first World Textile Conferencein Mumbai, India, in May. The themeof the conference is Vision 2020:emerging new opportunities

worldwide and challenging business

strategies. The aim of the event is to

provide an interactive environmentfor visitors to meet and discuss thefuture of the global textile industry.

Organisers expect over 500delegates to attend, including mill

owners, corporations, trade associ-

ations, export councils, policy makersand industry leaders. Topics willinclude the shifting focus towards

Asia and India in global sourcing, theneed for balancing fibre requirements

and the potential of collaborative and

partnering strategies between globalbuyers and retailers.

The World Textile Conference will beheld in at the Intercontinental Hotel,in Mumbai, from May 6-7.

AlbionBecomesBrenntag

Albion Colours, a supplier of dyes, pigments and associatedauxiliaries, is to be rebranded asBrenntag Colours.

The Albion Chemicals Group was previously rebranded asBrenntag UK & Ireland, following its acquisition by Germancompany Brenntag. Over thepast five years, the AlbionColours product ranges havebeen progressively integrated

into the Brenntag organisation. According to Brenntag, there

will be no change in thecompanys day-to-dayoperations, either in the UKor overseas.

ClariantSales UpClariant has reported sales of CHF7.120 billion ($7.34bn) in 2010, anincrease of 13% compared with CHF6.614bn ($6.82bn) in 2009.

The company continued to focuson reducing its selling, general andadministration (SG&A) costs,

which as a percentage of salesdropped from 17.6% in 2009 to16.5%. As a result of the improved

gross margin and lower cost base,Clariants EBIT operating incomeincreased to CHF 696m ($718m)compared with the CHF 270m($261.6m) the year previously.

Clariants restructuring programme was completed in 2010, with allbusiness units said to havecontributed to strong operating profits by reducing costs andoptimising their processes.

A number of leading brands and retailers have agreed to work with the global union of denim industry workers to help ban the sandblasting of jeans, a process associated with the fatal lung disease silicosis.Representatives of fifteen brands came together to share bestpractices, exchange points of view and discuss next steps at a meeting convened by the International Textile, Garment and Leather WorkersFederation (ITGLWF) in January.Patrick Itschert, ITGLWF general secretary, said: This initial meeting

was very positive. It was clear that participating companies were wellinformed about the issue and committed to moving forward.

Joint efforts are now underway to draft a protocol on the eliminationof sandblasting to be tabled at a follow-up meeting within the nextcouple of months, as well as to invite more brands to become involvedin the process.

FongsMercerising

SeminarFongs National Engineering Co Ltdand Pacific Associate Ltd co-hosteda technical seminar on the bleaching and mercerising process, in Dhaka,shortly before the DTG 2011exhibition in February.

The aim of the seminar was toenhance the technical level of bleaching and mercerising inBangladesh. Speakers addressed the

wet finishing of woven and knitted

cotton fabric and their blends. Golleralso showcased its range of machines including the Complex forscouring and bleaching, as well as itsOptima, Cadena and Perfectamercerising systems. Walter Leung, sales director of

Fongs National Engineering Co,said: The market in Bangladeshis different compared with ten

years before, as it has become animportant hub on the globaltextile stage.

All our customers are seeking thecomplete solution compatible withtheir entire production chain. The

workshop is successful as wereceived many enquiries andpotential orders. Afterward we willplan to have two more workshopsfocus on Goller and Then.

Sandblasting BanMoves Closer

Industry News

World Textile Conference

Polyester fibre manufacturer Advansahas launched a thermo-regulating fibre for the bedding market, underits Dacron brand.

Climarelle Cool, an extension of theClimarelle line, features microscopic

Phase Change Material (PCM)capsules stored on the surface of thematerial. The construction is said tospeed up the cooling effect, ensuring the bedding maintains a comfortable,cool temperature.

Kelheim Fibres, a Germanmanufacturer of viscosespeciality fibres, has developed atechnique for controlling the dyeabsorption capacity of its Deep-Dye fibre.Tests conducted by the companyestablished that controlling thedegree of cationic activation of the fibre could manage the

speed of dye removal. Kelheimfound that the activated Deep-Dye fibres achieved almostcomplete dye absorption within

just ten minutes.This knowledge will be used toallow the company to createfibres with exactly the right levelof cationic activation to meet thecustomers specific needs.Deep-Dye absorbs dyestuff on itssurface, which is then distributedevenly throughout the crosssection of the fibre. As the activesites are already incorporated inthe fibre, it is possible to convertthe Deep-Dye fibres to anonwoven or paper product,

without any loss of thefunctionality, said Kelheim.

Controlof Dye

Absorption

Thermo-Regulating Bedding


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25/56

APRIL 2011 23

IT IS with reluctance that I ask the title

question, since I have been deeplyinvolved in wool science since 1963 andam enthusiastic about the excellentcomfort and drape properties ofall-wool garments.

Unfortunately, over the past five years Ihave become increasingly frustrated to findthat my relatively expensive all-wool andcashmere garments are increasingly proneto attack by moth larvae, and this yearhave trashed five garments of less than a

year old. The photo shows moth damagein a prized cashmere sweater, purchasedonly 8 months ago.

Talking to colleagues, I am awarethat this problem is widespread andrequires urgent attention, otherwiseconsumers will be driven to buy cotton andacrylic sweaters.

The history of wool moth-proofing was a great success story 1,2 and thus the abovefrustrations were eliminated. Why has thesituation regressed to that of 80 years ago[the first effective synthetic moth-proofers,Eulan New and Eulan CN Extra, were

marketed in the 1930s]?Part of the answer is that the problem was

created by powerful retailers and mixed up with environmental policies. One of the mostsuccessful modern moth-proofers was basedon the pyrethroid insecticide, permethrin. It

was reasoned that, since most moth-proofing was carried out in dyebaths, thenthe discharge created a problem for fish, andespecially for their food-sources, such asdaphne and gammerus insects.

The use of pyrethroids in agriculture far

outweighed their use as moth-proofing agents an estimate would be by manymillion times; notwithstanding, woolscientists at AgResearch in New Zealandhave invented the Lanaguard method of

applying pyrethroids to wool, in apolymer carrier system, which did notresult in any aqueous discharge 3 . Why didresponsible retailers not take this newtechnology on board?

My guess is that dropping the moth-proofing process represented a convenientcost-cutting exercise in favour of theretailer but, given the 120 price-tag onmy damaged garment, this actionrepresents a big negative for the consumer.

My plea, in this year of wool, isthat serious attention be given to thisproblem, otherwise the savvy consumer

will move to o ther fibre s. Immediately,research should start to render the amino

acids in wool keratin indigestible to themoth larvae simple cheap chemicalmodifications, carried out in the dyebath,are not impossible. ID

Opinion: Moth Proofing

Counting the CostDoes major retailers abandonment of moth-proofing mean wool is no longer fit for purpose as a luxury fibre?

The question is posed by David M. Lewis, of the Department of Colour Science, University of Leeds, UK

1. J. R. McPhee and T. Shaw, The ChemicalTechnology of Wool Processing, Rev.Prog. in Col. , 14 , (1984) pp 58-68.

2. D.M. Lewis and T. Shaw, Insectproofing

of Wool, Rev. Prog. in Col.,17

, (1987) pp86-94.

3. J. Barton, Its a Bugs Life - or is it?, Int.Dyer, 185, (2000) pp14-16.

Moth damage on a cashmere sweater

References


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Technical Textiles

Deflexion, a protective textile developed by Dow Corning, has beenincorporated in a new line of winter sports gear from Swiss manufacturerScott Sports. Deflexion is a silicone-based material designed to shield thebody from the force of external impact.Intended for professional skiers and winter sports enthusiasts, the Deflexionmaterial h

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