Installation Tips & Pictures - All Styles- Introduction- Quantities- Skirtings- Dado Rails- Picture Rails, Shelves, Brackets- Removing Staples- Cutting Panels - Basic- Fixing Methods - Glue, Pins, Screws, Staples- Starting Panel- Outside Corners- Inside Corners- Mid-Panels- Finishing Panel- Cutting Panels - Advanced- Decorating

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Introduction

inepanel co uk.interior wall panellingf

Quick & easy to fitCover any type of wall

Fixes & links invisiblyWhole panels NOT partsPrimed & ready to paintKeep skirtings or fit newMoisture resistant Dado height panels from stock

The Installation Guide in every box (also downloadable from www.finepanel.co.uk > Instructions) containsessential fitting instructions and diagrams - all you will need are a few tools, basic DIY skills and the abilityto follow simple instructions!

IMPORTANT - Prior to fitting remove from packaging and lay flat in room of installation toacclimatise for 48 hours

Used in conjunction with the Installation Guide this document is designed to further assist you in all aspectsof Finepanel installation and includes additional advice, a pictorial installation sequence and tips & diagramsof advanced installation techniques

© Finepanel Ltd 2013 T - 01892 544228 info@finepanel.co.uk

Finepanels are the simple, stylish and affordable way to create a beautifullypanelled interior

Page 1

Quantities

Table A - All styles except Shaker Table B - Shaker Only

Wall Dim (mm) Panel Qty Trim Qty0 - 464 1

212121212121212121212

233445566778899

101011

465 - 696697 - 849850 - 1081

1082 - 12341235 - 14661467 - 16191620 - 18511852 - 20042005 - 22362237 - 23892390 - 26212622 - 27742775 - 30063007 - 31593160 - 33913392 - 35443545 - 37763777 - 39293930 - 4161

121

111212

4162 - 43144315 - 45464547 - 4699

21

1313

4700 - 49314932 - 5084

Wall Dim (mm) Panel Qty Trim Qty0 - 450 1

212121212121212121212

233445566778899

101011

451 - 675676 - 835836 - 1060

1061 - 12201221 - 14451446 - 16051606 - 18301831 - 19901991 - 22152216 - 23752376 - 26002601 - 27602761 - 29852986 - 31453146 - 33703371 - 35303531 - 37553756 - 39153916 - 4140

121

111212

4141 - 43004301 - 45254526 - 4685

21

1313

4686 - 49104911 - 5070

We recommend that customers use our online Calculator - the quick, easy and accurate way to calculate how many panels and end trims an installation requires and how also much they would cost

This can be found on the www.finepanel.co.uk > Prices page of our website or by clicking on the Calculator symbol at the top of most of our web pages

If you do not have internet access use the tables below to manually work out how many panels and end trims each individual run of panelling requires. Use Table A for all panel styles other than Shaker and Table B for Shaker style panels only. One end trim indicates that only the finishing panel of a panel run is trimmed - two end trims gives you the option to avoid a small finishing panel by trimming both starting and finishing panels. Single panels excepted, by using the table quantities no panel center need finish narrower than half width i.e. 160mm (Shaker 153mm)

As when using the online Calculator first measure each wall carefully (mm). Enter each panel run individually into Table C below, one line at a time. Using the appropriate table above make a note of how many panels and end trims are required and then add them up to establish a Project Total. Work out quantities for different types of panel separately including any shorter ones for under windows or above doors. To find out how much your project would cost for a particular style and size of finepanel either contact us with your quantities or access our online Retail Price List. Note - Stair panels are measured differently for which you will need to access the Stairs or Instructions page of our website.

Dim (mm) Panel Qty Trim QtyWall

10

43

56789

Project Total =

Table C

12

Page 2

Skirtings

Slight gaps between panels and skirtings are not normally visible - If they are, fill prior to painting. For significant gaps consider scribing and fitting new level skirtings first. If necessary pack out new skirtings intermittently so that their top edges are a similar thickness to the panels (1)

Gaps may also be reduced by scribing the bottom edge of the panels to follow the line of the skirting however you will need to have decided on this approach before you start installing as the 885mm high pencil line will need to have been measured from the lowest point - not the highest.

If your skirtings are only slightly thinner than the thickness of the panels consider applying a 3 x 45° chamfer to the very bottom edge of any Classic, Raised or Beaded panel verticals & end caps to help disguise the small step (2). The horizontals and verticals of Shaker and Heritage panels are flush - so if you need to apply a bottom edge chamfer do so right the way across

If the top edge of your existing skirtings are substantially thinner than the panel thickness consider applying a small infill moulding immediately above the skirting to bring the depth out (3)

Dado Rails

Although Finepanels are only 12-15mm deep, the edges of many dado rail profiles are often thinner. A door architrave matched to your skirtings (ogee, torus, ovolo etc) makes an excellent dado rail - used thick edge down it effectively masks the thickness of the top edge of the panels (4a & 4b)

As with the skirtings, if the edge of the dado rail is only slightly thinner than the panel verticals adding a small chamfer can help disguise the step. To further reduce the step the lower edge of the dado rail can also be planed to slightly increase its thickness (not shown)

Alternatively pack out behind a thin dado rail with a 6-9mm strip of MDF - sufficient to bring the dado forward just enough to mask the top edge of the panels (5)

When installing panels one above another choose a symmetrical dado profile - pack out behind with an MDF strip to mask both the top edge of the lower panels and the bottom edge of the upper ones (6)

Picture Rails, Shelves & Brackets

The top edge of a taller panel installation may be finished with a picture rail (7) or other decorative moulding - packed out as necessary

Alternatively a shelf may be supported by intermittent softwood brackets glued and screwed, from behind, to panel verticals and end trims prior to installation.

Available in 3 sizes, Small, Medium & Large, our 25mm thick primed softwood brackets share a common elegant profile and may be used in either orientation (vertical being the stronger). They are suitable for supporting loads ranging from a simple lightweight plate shelf (small), a row of CD’s (medium) or a heavy run of paperback books (large)

Shelves can be made from lengths of primed 18mm MDF - preferably with their leading edge matched to the profile of your skirtings. To make a plate shelf rout a groove into the top surface set back from the leading edge - alternatively add a small bead or moulding to retain the plates instead. Attach shelves invisibly from above (8)

When installing a plate shelf below door height ensurethat the door can still open fully

Skirtings

Picture Rails, Shelves & Brackets

Dado Rails

SymmetricalDado Rail

PackingStrip

PackingStrip

DadoRail

DoorArchitrave

4a. Door Architrave as Dado Rail

PictureRail

PackingStrip

IntermittentPacking

ChamferedEdge

InfillMoulding

1.

4b. 6.5.

7. 8.

3.

Page 3

2.

PlateShelfScrews

Brackets (mm)

S - 75 x 50M - 112.5 x 75L - 150 x 100

Cutting Panels - Basic (see also Cutting Panels - Advanced on Page 8)

Having removed any obstructing staples clamp the panel face down to a work bench other stable surface. Using a sharp circular saw with dust collector, set the width of the fence to cut along the appropriate side of the line. Set the depth of cut sufficient to cut through both back panel and face trims (15-18 mm nom) before carefully making the cut. Always wear a face mask to prevent dust inhalation

Alternatively use a sharp jig or hand saw then plane or sand the cut edge straight (Tip - A sharp hand or 'Jack' plane is easier to control than an electric one. Use a sanding block to avoid soften-ing the edge)

As it's unlikely that the offcuts can be used elsewhere why not use them to try out possible paint colours?

Removing Staples

Staples are used during panel manufacture to hold face trims in place whilst the glue dries - they only need to be removed if in line with, or close to, a proposed cut. Note - The type of staples used splay outwards inside the wood and so are wider than they appear to be

Measure finishing or starting panels for cutting as described in the Installation Guide for your particular panels. Draw a pencil line where the cut is to be made and circle all staples within 10mm of this line. Remove the circled staples one at a time by pushing a bradawl or similar narrow metal tool under the head of a staple with a twisting action (1). Raise the head of each staple until it projects slightly (2) - then either insert the bradawl fully and lever the staple out or extract it with pincers (3)

Check every circle to make sure that all staples have indeed been removed before you make any cuts. (Don't worry - trims are securely glued on and won't come off even if all staples are removed!)

3.

2.

1.

4.

Page 4

Fixing Methods Glue, Pins, Screws, Staples

Permanently fixed panels should be glued into position then pinned (1a & 1b) or screwed (2a & 2b) or stapled (not shown) to hold them in place whilst the glue dries - allowing the next panel to be applied immediately. Plasterboard and wooden surfaces can generally can be pinned or stapled into - masonry nails may be used on harder walls however always wear goggles when hammering. If a wall is very hard or very soft use plugs and screws instead

Important - Whatever the chosen fixing method always check for concealed services before inserting any fixings

When fixing with screws, before applying any glue to the rear of the panel, drill and countersink the holes through from the front. Ensure that all countersunk holes fall within the 11mm zone beyond the end of each horizontal and do not encroach into the gap behind the tongue. Accurately locate the pre-drilled panel 'dry' and mark the hole positions on the wall. Remove the panel then drill holes and insert wall plugs.

Finepanels are manufactured to have a firm, positive fit and so may require a light tap to fully engage – especially any that are gently curved, which is normal. Test the fit of your panels before you install them as occasionally a location tongue may require ‘easing’ if excessively tight – lightly sanding its machined face to remove any debris or primer before glue is applied and the panel attached is simpler than trying to ‘ease’ a panel afterwards

Finally apply glue to the rear of the panel, locate and screw into place. (1 1/4" x No6 c/sk woodscrews into red wall plugs are usually adequate)

As the removal of glued-on panels may result in wall damage, non-permanent installations may be attached 'dry' using screws only (not pins only or staples only) - It's easier to fill in a few screw holes than re-finish a wall however 'dry' installations are inherently less robust than glued

Wall pins are useful to hold a starting panel in place just until the glue dries. Having positioned the panel accurately tap in long pins immediately adjacent to the starting upright. Do not hammer in fully - leave enough projecting to be able to extract them with pincers once the glue is dry. Fill any holes left before painting

Holding the first panel

Heads of all fixings must be made flush prior to installing the nextpanel - either tap them in with a nail punch or countersink them first

When panelling a hallway (3), instead of pinning, brace short lengths of wood against the opposite wall to press the first panel into place whilst the glue dries - thus avoiding nail holes.Protect both wall and panel surfaces to avoid marking them

HALLWAY

Protection

Sta

rting

Pan

el

Brace

Brace

3.

1a.

1b.

2a.

2b.

Page 5

Level

885m

m

Starting panel

Provided they are sound, dry and relatively flat Finepanels can be installed directly over the existing finish of most types of wall. Having measured and planned your installation mark a pencil line round the room at the height of your panels above the highest point of the skirting. (2C-885mm panels illustrated)

Tip - Use an end trim as a measuring stick

See fixing methods on Page 5 to establish the most suitable means of attachment. If possible start with a whole panel and apply a 6mm wide zig-zag bead of panel adhesive (or a regular pattern of 25mm glue blobs) to the back (1) before pressing firmly into position prior to fixing

Outside Corners

If starting at an outside corner work away from it in both directions. Position the first panel such that it substantially overlaps the second, leaving just the chamfer (angled apex) of the second panel exposed - this will help to conceal the join (2a & 2b)

Whenever you install a panel always ensure that its top edge aligns with the pencil line and, using a spirit level, that the vertical edge is indeed vertical (3) If necessary pack out temporarily between panel and skirting to support it in position until the fixings have been inserted

Inside corners are an ideal opportunity to conceal installation tolerances and reduce the amount of scribing necessary. Where possible plan your installa-tion to avoid having to fit panels accurately at both ends of a run. Preferably install runs of panels sequentially - moving around the room in the same direction. Use the starting panel of a new run to cover the gap at the end of the previous run - there's no need to be any more accurate than to within 5mm, although gaps of up to 8mm can be successfully hidden

Do not try to start with a cut panel and end with a whole one asit is unlikely to fit exactly - similarly cut the last panel of a run only

after the others have been attached

1.

2a. 2b. 3.

Inside Corners

End CapGapup to8mm

Starting Panel

Cut Panel

Butt Joint

4.

Page 6

2C-8

85m

m

Mid-Panels

Aligning the panel tops with the pencil line, link panels progres-sively using pins, screws or staples to hold them in place whilst the glue dries (1). Ensure that any fixings are inserted into the 11mm fixing zone beyond the end of the horizontals, that they do not penetrate the projecting tongue and that their heads all finish flush. Check successive panels for verticality and level as you progress

Finishing Panel

At the end of the run first offer up the loose end trim, rebate edge flush with the adjoining wall. (Pack away from it up to 8mm if a tolerance gap is required - see Inside Corners - Page 6) Scribe the rebate edge as necessary to ensure verticality

Measure the finishing panel and cut to size with a circular, jig or hand saw as outlined on Page 4 (see also Cutting Panels - Advanced - Page 8) Glue and pin/screw/staple the panel in position (2). Bond the loose end trim directly to the wall (3a & 3b) - butting its solid edge tightly to the cut edge of the finishing panel. If necessary retain the end trim with masking tape or temporary pins whilst the glue dries

Continue around the room in the same direction using the first panel of the subsequent run to mask any gap at the end of the previous one (4)

Choose the most suitable format of top moulding (see Page 3). Glue and, if necessary pin, it in position (5). Fill and sand any gaps prior to painting (6)

1.

2.

3a.

3b.

4.

5.

6.Page 7

One Cut or Two?

Measuring standard finishing and starting panels for cutting is outlined in the relevant Installation Guide for your panels. Whether cut panels are desirable at both ends of a run will depend on the particular installation. In many cases finishing with a small cut panel is quite acceptable - especially if it can be configured to meet another small panel at an internal corner. Unless circumstances dictate otherwise, by careful choice of either one or two cuts, the centre of any cut panel need be no narrower than half width - 160mm (Shaker 153mm)- see Quantities - Page 2

Cut Finishing Panels - Advanced

Instead of a butt-joint, a lap-joint can be used to finish a run. This enables the loose vertical end trim to be glued to the finishing panel as well as, or instead of, to the wall - particularly useful if the wall is very uneven. To achieve this the finishing panel is cut 18 - 22 mm wider than instructed for a butt joint (1) and the horizontals subsequently reduced in length

To accurately establish the position of the three shallow cuts required first fit the wider cut panel 'dry' and offer up the loose end trim flush to the wall (or packed out for a tolerance gap) If scribing is necessary do so on the solid edge - not the rebate edge. Using the rebate edge of the end trim as a guide, mark a line on the front face of each horizontal (2). Take the panel off and remove any staples behind the intended cuts. Lay the panel face-up and with a fine tenon saw cut through each horizontal, taking care not to saw into the surface of the back panel. (Tip - Use scrap pieces of laminate to protect the surface, particularly either side of the mid-horizontals) Working from the cut edge of the panel, cleanly remove the ends of the three horizontals with a sharp chisel (3), sanding flat if necessary Refit the modified panel 'dry' and offer up the end trim, its rebate overlapping the the back panel. Adjust as necessary to achieve a snug fit between the cut ends of the three horizontals and the rebate edge of the trim. Glue and screw/pin/staple the finishing panel to the wall in the usual way before applying glue to the end trim rebate (or all over the back) and bonding it into position (4). If necessary retain the end trim with masking tape or temporary pins whilst the glue dries. Fill and sand any gaps or pins holes prior to painting

Cut Starting Panels - Advanced

A lap-joint between a loose vertical end trim and a cut starting panel may be achieved in a similar way. Measure the panel as instructed adding on a further 22mm in addition to the 22mm allowance for the tongue as shown in the Installation Guide for your panels. Cut off and discard the fixed vertical trim portion of the panel then cut and chisel-off the ends of the horizontals as above. Glue / pin the loose vertical end trim directly onto the panel. Fit the newly modified narrower panel as if it were a whole starting panel (5)

Lap-Joint

But

t-Cut

Butt-Joint

Finishing Panel

18-22mm extra

Mark & cut x3

Remove horizontalends with chisel x3

Glue Glue (optional)

ModifiedStarting Panel

Cutting Panels - Advanced

Lap-

Cut

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

Page 8

Removing Staples

Decorating Preparation

Having allowed the glue to dry, tap in any pins with a nail punch and fill any holes and gaps with interior filler. Rub down panels lightly using a fine rectangular foam sanding block to get right into the corners - dust down

If applying wallpaper above the panelling paint the panelling first - where possible also lay the floor covering after painting. If already laid, mask-off the edges of the flooring next to the skirting and protect the rest from paint splashes

Finepanels are pre-primed white and ready to paint. Minor areas of exposed MDF are usually covered by two top coats however if, during installation, substantial areas of primer become removed they should be lightly rubbed down and re-primed white prior to applying the top coats

Paint Type

Finepanels may be finished using interior wood paint such as Eggshell, Gloss or Emulsion (Satin shows less marks than Matt). Oil-based paint is generally harder wearing than water-based albeit less kind to the environment. Two coats will probably be necessary as oil-based paints require an undercoat and water-based paints need two coats for effective coverage

Painting Order

Paint one panel at a time treating each as if as if it were a panelled door - follow the painting order below for best results. Apply paint sparingly to avoid drips at the corners

Starting at one end of a run, paint around the edges (1) of the top compartment with a small brush, getting right into the corners. Next paint its centre (2) with a larger brush or a fine (gloss) mini-roller (Gives smoother results than a 'woolly' emulsion roller - even with emulsion!) Finish with light strokes up and down - they show up less than side-to-side ones. Move down and repeat for the compartment(s) below

Starting with the top one, paint any horizontal trims working side-to-side with a brush or mini-roller. Lastly paint the vertical trim (4) before moving on to repeat the procedure on the next panel

Paint all panels before painting any top mouldings (5) and then lastly the skirting board (6)

Support

If you have any questions or queries or are unable to resolve any problems you encounter please e-mail us at info@finepanel.co.uk and we will make every effort to assist you. Constructive comments and installation tips are always welcome as are pictures of your finished installation

Thank you for choosing to install Finepanels

Work Direction

Page 9

Designs RegisteredFinepanel™ is a trademark of Finepanel Ltd

Manufactured in the UK from responsibly sourced materials Installation Tips & Pictures - All Styles v 2.1 © Finepanel Ltd 2013

inepanel co uk.interior wall panellingf