Interactive smart textiles: innovation and collaboration ... · Interactive smart textiles: innovation and collaboration in Japan and South Korea REPORT OF A DTI GLOBAL WATCH MISSION

GLOBAL WATCH MISSION REPORT

Interactive smart textiles:innovation and collaboration in Japan and South Korea

MAY 2004

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Global Watch Missions

The UK government Department of Trade andIndustry (DTI) Global Watch Service provides funds toassist small groups of technical experts from UKcompanies and academia to visit other countries forshort, fact finding missions.

Global Watch Missions serve a number of relatedpurposes, such as establishing contacts withoverseas organisations for purposes of collaboration;benchmarking the current status of UK industryagainst developments overseas; identifying keydevelopments in a particular field, new areas ofprogress or potentially disruptive technologies; orstudying how a specific industry has organised itselffor efficient operation or how governments, plannersor decision makers have supported or promoted aparticular area of industry or technology within theirown country.

Disclaimer

This report represents the findings of a missionorganised by Heriot-Watt University with the support ofDTI. Views expressed represent those of individualmembers of the mission team and should not be takenas representing the views of other members of theteam, their employers, Heriot-Watt University or DTI.

Although every effort has been made to ensure theaccuracy and objective viewpoint of this report, andinformation is provided in good faith, no liability can beaccepted for its accuracy or for any use to which itmight be put. Comments attributed to organisationsvisited during this mission were those expressed bypersonnel interviewed and should not be taken asthose of the organisation as a whole.

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Interactive smart textiles:innovation and collaboration

in Japan and South KoreaREPORT OF A DTI GLOBAL WATCH MISSION

MAY 2004

Report prepared byGeorge K Stylios – Heriot-Watt University

with contributions byC Kindness – Interface Fabrics Ltd

P J Stephenson – SSL International PlcR Burek – Charles Owen & Co (Bow) Ltd

O Van Emden – FreshMax LtdB McCarthy – BTTG Ltd

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INTERACTIVE SMART TEXTILES: INNOVATION AND COLLABORATION IN JAPAN AND SOUTH KOREA

CONTENTS

Executive summary 3

1 Introduction from the academic 4mission leader

2 Aims and objectives of 5the mission

2.1 Mission aims 52.2 Mission objectives 52.3 Areas of specific interest 5

3 Industry analysis 63.1 Japan’s general economic 6

background3.2 Outline of the textile industry 7

in Japan3.3 South Korea’s general 8

economic background3.4 Textile industry in Korea 93.5 Comparative summary 10

4 Outline of company visits 11and activities

4.1 Japan Chemical Fibres 11Association (JCFA) – Osaka

4.2 Nihon Sanmo Dyeing 11Company Ltd – Kyoto

4.3 Toyobo Research Centre – 11Osaka

4.4 Teijin – Osaka 124.5 Shinshu University – Nagano 134.6 Diaplex – Tokyo 134.7 National Institute of Advanced 13

Industrial Science and Technology (AIST) – Tsukuba

4.8 Korea Textile Development 14Institute (KTDI) – Daegu

4.9 Korean Dyeing Technology 14Centre (DYETEC) – Daegu

4.10 Kolon – Central Research Park – 15Fibres and Textiles – Daegu

4.11 Korea Federation of Textile 16Industries (KOFOTI) – Seoul

4.12 Hyosung – R&D Centre – Seoul 164.13 Samsung – Advanced Institute of 17

Technology

5 Mission findings 185.1 General functional textiles 185.2 Technical fibres and yarns 195.3 Antibacterial and 20

odour-eliminating properties5.4 Moisture management 215.5 Medical applications of textiles 235.6 Robotics and wearable electronics 245.7 Shape memory materials 255.8 Micro- and nano-scale advances 275.9 Supercritical fluid processing 28

6 Conclusions and 30recommendations

Appendices A Acknowledgments 31B Korea’s imports and exports 32C Mission participants 34D Mission coordinator 40E Mission discussion, topics 41

and questionsF Contact list 43G List of tables and figures 46H Glossary 47

EXECUTIVE SUMMARY

Smart, interactive, multi-functional and highperformance textiles is an area of industrialtechnology of huge potential already resultingin new products, new end uses andproviding business opportunities to industryand commerce.

Textiles are becoming even broader and theyare spreading much beyond their so-called‘traditional scope’ into medical, aerospace,electronics, civil engineering and automotivesectors and are providing new and excitingopportunities. The idea that we couldproduce flexible electronics, and therealisation that flexible monitors may not befar away, turns the whole foundation ofindustrial sectors upside down; ifmicroelectronics can become part of ourintimate apparel then do we consider this asthe next generation of electronics or as thenext generation of textiles?

Both countries visited (Japan and SouthKorea) are spending huge sums on researchand development (R&D) into these newmaterials, there are widespread R&Dbudgets within companies as well as fromgovernment. Their industrial infrastructure isdifferent from ours, having a much larger

critical mass of related industrialcorporations working, or competing, witheach other. Despite large and continuousinvestment in R&D in these countries, theUK science base in similar areas is relativelyhealthy and is not lagging behind. Ourdifficulty is to build and transfer these newideas from the laboratory into robustbusiness opportunities.

We have seen niche products, highlyinnovative, in all areas that we wereinterested in. We have felt the innovationculture within boardrooms. We have realisedat the same time that other innovations alsoexist in non-textile companies, perhaps fromsmall, non-subject-specific companies. So perhaps in a future mission a non-textilecompany focus for these new materials mayalso be beneficial, although more difficult toorganise. Long-term R&D and company-to-company collaboration, together withscience-base collaborations, is the key.

It is an undisputable fact that these newmaterials will affect our lives and will be the main technological focus for sustainable business development beyond the next decade.

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Figure S.1 Mission delegates at Shinshu University

1 INTRODUCTION FROM THE

ACADEMIC MISSION LEADER

The mission focuses on new technical textilematerials with potential applications in a widerange of fields, such as in aerospacedevelopments, automotive industry,healthcare, civil engineering, andtelecommunications. The highly technical andperforming nature of these new textiles, andtheir flexibility (as well as being versatile, theycan easily be bent, or shaped into any 3Dstructure) have led to a worldwide interest insuch new materials, and a race for researchand development to push the limits oftechnology further.

UK academics and industry are alreadyinvesting in the study and development of a range of interactive, smart, intelligent,multifunctional and high performance textile-related materials, in projects dealingwith wireless interacting textile garments,shape changing materials, nanotechnology,biomedical fibrous assemblies, and so on.

An insight into the advances in high-techcountries with a reputation in textiles, such asJapan and Korea, will help focus and definethe directions of British R&D. The findings ofthe mission, disseminated to academia, thetechnical textiles and high-technologyindustries through seminars, reports,websites and articles, will help increase thecompetitiveness of British companies andboost the status of British R&D.

George K StyliosSenior Research Professor of TextilesHeriot-Watt UniversityDirector of RIFleXEditor of the International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology IJCST

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2 AIMS AND OBJECTIVES OF THE

MISSION

2.1 Mission aims

The principal aims of the mission are todiscover new Japanese and Korean materialsand their technologies and end-uses, and tohelp in establishing a clearer R&D strategy intechnical textiles through the TechniTexFaraday Partnership.

With a current need for British companies toinnovate and move into niche markets inorder to compete, the potential economicimpact of the mission is highly significant. Thefindings of the mission will benefit companiesby enabling them to formulate a clearerstrategy for the development of innovativehigh performance textiles and for increasingtheir competitiveness and innovativeness. Therelationships developed during the missionmay also result in possible competitivecollaborations.

On the academic side, disseminating thefindings of the mission is likely to encourageand stimulate research activity in key areas ofthe technical textiles and other hightechnology sectors, as well as encourageinternational collaborations.

2.2 Mission objectives

• Discover new materials and newtechnologies in the mission countriesimportant to the UK’s R&D efforts

• Understand the application of the latestnew materials in various fields of industryand commerce

• Establish company contacts and working relationships in both R&Dand best practice

• Establish direction of R&D for the nextgeneration of technical textiles in the areas of interactive, smart, and intelligent structures

2.3 Areas of specific interest

• Intelligent drag delivery systems in themedical industry

• Smart wearable monitoring devices,including interactive garments for thehealthcare and rescue sectors

• Interactive textiles and composites intransportation, automotive, aerospace andstructural engineering

• Shape changing intelligent structures • Conductive fibres, yarns and fabrics• Nanotechnologies

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3 INDUSTRY ANALYSIS

The textile and allied sectors are now at theforefront of industrial development throughadvances in fibre and textile science. Countriessuch as Japan and South Korea are thought ofas leading this ‘revolution in technical textiles,’and the aim of this mission was to investigatehow developed and in what areas Japan andSouth Korea are, compared to the UK and therest of the world.

3.1 Japan’s general economic

background

Japan is the world’s second largest economy,with a gross domestic product (GDP) estimatedto be approximately three times that of the UK,and 15% of the entire world. The Japaneseeconomy is more than twice the size of the restof Asia. In recent years, however, Japan hasbeen facing issues such as low consumerconfidence following the stock-market crash andlow business investment.

In addition, like many industrialised nations,Japan is facing a demographic ticking clockwith an ageing population being supported byfewer working people. In 2003, 18% of thepopulation was over 65. This is expected togrow to 29% in 2025 and 36% by 2050. Life expectancy for men is 78 years, and 85years for women. Although in general Japan’spopulation is healthier as a result of changingdiets and lifestyles, they are now starting tosuffer from higher levels of heart problemsand other diseases previously associated withthe West. Long-term chronic ailments are onthe rise, and investment in healthcare hasincreased, as has spend on R&D in this area.One of the noticeable issues the missionidentified was that many traditional textilescompanies had chosen to diversify intoautomotive, pharmaceutical, healthcare or

biotechnology areas. In view of the textilehistory of these companies, this has been abold move, which is supported by centralgovernment R&D and other funds.

R&D in Japan, on a private, governmental andmixed basis, is phenomenal, accounting for25% of the world’s R&D. The top 7 Japanesecompanies for example, invest more in R&Dthan the whole of the private and publicsector in the UK. The Japanese have anexceptionally high government R&D spendtoo (Table 3.1). In 2003 this reached ¥3.59 trillion (£19.4 billion). A new 5-yearbasic science and technology plan is set to be in the area of ¥24 trillion (£135 billion).

The Japanese electronics businesses haveseen a downturn in recent years as have thepharmaceutical companies who have hadlower government drug prices imposed. This has led to greater involvement of largemultinational pharmaceutical companies inJapan and the development of morecollaboration, particularly in genome baseddrug delivery. Despite economic difficulties inthe electronics sector, Japan continues tolead the way in many areas, including mobilecommunications and digital media, and isinvesting heavily in next-generationtechnologies such as nanoelectronics.

Population R&D

Population R&D investment

(millions) (£ billion)

Japan 127 90China 1,300 8India 1,100 2Korea 46 7.1Taiwan 24 4Singapore 4.1 1.2Table 3.1 R&D budgets in Asia

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3.2 Outline of the textile industry

in Japan

Japan’s textile and apparel market is thesecond largest, after the US. Wholesale valueof the apparel market, for example, was inthe region of £13 billion in 2002 (retail valueof around £38 billion). However, reflecting thegeneral economic decline in previous years,this sector has experienced a gradual drop inthe last few years.

The Japanese Ministry of Economy, Trade andIndustry (METI) indicates that indices ofproduction for textiles have gone downdramatically over the last decade. Latestfigures from METI indicate that production isstill on the decrease compared to the last fewyears (Figure 3.1). Earlier, from 1991 to 2001,a drop of 62% of local production wasobserved. More recently, local apparelproduction wholesale value has dropped from£5 billion in 2002 to a predicted £4 billion in2004. Projection for the next two yearssuggests a further decrease of 15%. Despitethat, the country’s wholesale apparel exportsare expected to grow by 5%.

Apparel imports are expected to fall byaround 0.5% in the next two years. Chinasupplies around 76% of the imported market

in value terms and 85% in quantity terms.Imports from Italy, France and the UK are onthe decrease, and are typically considered ashigh quality, upmarket products. Apparel companies normally sell productsthat meet fashion trends, rather than thosethat represent their image. As a result, supplyis fashion-led and highly competitive. Theapparel market is often saturated, withapproximately 60% being women’s wear,30% men’s wear and 10% children’s wear.

In terms of fibres, the 2002 figures forJapanese textiles indicate that the countryproduces around 1,400,000 tons of fibres forvarious uses, of which more than half is usedin technical textiles areas. Despite the currentdecline in fibre production and consumption(assumed to be caused by the temporarysluggishness of the Japanese economy),Japan still concentrates a lot of itsmanufacturing capacities in high performancetechnical textiles. The country is also wellknown for its high innovativeness, particularlyin the use and development of polymers,synthetic fibres and of electronics. Innovationculture is well established, and R&D in novelareas, including in the interactive, smart,intelligent and high performance textilematerials area, have gained good momentum.

60

70

80

90

100

Jan 2003 Jan 2004

Production

Shipments

Inventory

Figure 3.1 Indices of textiles industrial production inJapan (index, 2000 = 100, seasonallyadjusted indices) (Source: METI)

Companies like Toray, Toyobo, Teijin, Kaneboand Mitsubishi lead the way in technical andinteractive textiles innovation. An observationof current developments and best practicesin these globally renowned research centreshas been a great experience for the missiondelegates.

3.3 South Korea’s general economic

background

South Korea has seen a spectaculareconomic growth over the last three decades.From being the ‘Hermit Kingdom’, it has nowbecome the 11th largest economy in theworld, despite being a third of Japan’s size,and earned itself the reputation of being oneof the Four East Asian Tigers. This successwas brought about by a government-directed,centrally planned model. Surprisinglyhowever, in recent years, the South Koreaneconomy has been moving away from thismodel to a more market-oriented one.

Economic growth in South Korea has seen agradual decline in the last few years, with amore severe crisis in 1997-1999. However,the economy appears to be doing better thanJapan, with a moderate 2.8% growth in2003. Despite some low times, South Koreahas been the only country, apart from China,to escape the East Asian recession.

Since the 1970s, the country has investedlargely in manufacturing, principally in thechemical industry, in electronics and inautomobiles. In addition to these threemajor sectors, South Korea is also strong inshipbuilding, steel, textiles and apparel,footwear and food processing. Exportpartners include mainly the USA, China andJapan. The producing labour is a third of thatof China, but the industry is based on highvalue added knowledge. It is believed thatKorea is more involved in developmentrather than research, and it has a goodreputation in animation and creativeindustries. South Korea leads the world in

broadband usage, which has reached tenmillion households.

South Korea’s economic structure reliessignificantly on international trade and exports.In 2001 the value of merchandise exports wasequivalent to 37.7% of GDP, compared with10% of GDP in the early 1970s.

Some of Korea’s characteristics are as follows:

• High rise buildings• Fast PCs in every school• Cash rich economy• Educated people• Leading industry in mobile phones, digital

electronics and telecommunications• Export-driven economy

South Korea is strongly committed toscience, spending 4.68% of its budget(which is almost 3% of its GDP) on R&D.R&D done by industry to R&D done bygovernment has the ratio of 2 to 1. The national R&D budget for 2001 was £2.1 billion. The approach to business is topdown for directions and influence, unlike UKand other countries.

Korea believes in a long-term vision, whichcurrently goes towards 2025. It is keen tocreate partnerships from the outside,recognising its weakness in science. There isa philosophy ‘do it in Korea’, which is slowlychanging. The university links need to beimproved, with greater mobility and strongernetworking between university institutes,government and industry.

It is worth noting that the expectation of theR&D budget for the year 2025 is to increaseto five per cent of GDP. With this in mindSouth Korea may be pushed into the top tentechnological countries by 2015. A highlight ofthis is that Samsung spends five to ten percent of its sales for R&D.

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3.4 Textile industry in Korea

The textile industry in Korea remains thelargest employer, and fourth largest exporterin the world. Industry growth declined by11% in 2003, coupled with a drop of 10.6%in domestic demand. On the supply side,the Korean textile industry was estimated atabout 3.5 million tons in 2003, a drop of6.2% from the previous year. Still, theindustry was able to achieve a $9.6 billiontrade surplus in 2003.

Production, domestic demand and exportsare on the decrease, while imports are onthe increase (Table 3.2). The most significantexporting goods are fabrics, followed byfinished products, raw materials and yarns. In terms of imports, Korea imports twice asmuch finished product than raw materialsand yarns. Fabrics are the least importedgoods. Appendix B provides a breakdown ofthe Korean import and export markets.

In South Korea, the textile industry makes up14% of the total exports and employs 16% ofits workforce. This ranked the country fifth inworld textile exports in 1999, behind onlyChina, Italy, Germany and the USA. Appareldemand from consumers has grown healthilyover the past few years, with a retail marketsize of around £8.8 billion in 2002. Growth hasslowed down during the economic crisis, butis now again back on track.

In the past, the apparel sector was principallydominated by local manufacturers. However,since the 1990s an increase in importedfashion has taken place, particularly in theSouth, leading to significant changes in thedistribution systems. Two niches haveemerged and the middle market isdisappearing. Inexpensive apparel is typicallydomestically produced or imported from HongKong, China (accounting for over 50% of theimported apparel), Vietnam and other EastAsian countries. Higher-end products areimported from Italy, France, Japan and theUSA. Imports in 2001 (including raw materials,low-priced garments and higher-end products)were estimated at £2.9 billion.

Textile and apparel production in South Koreahas been until recently driven by cheaplabour, with little focus on quality and fashiondesign. The situation is gradually changing,and now there is more emphasis on thedevelopment and use of new materials,technology and on fashion.

In recent years, Korea has become a worldleader in sectors such as semiconductors andelectronic products. Combined with theirstrong textiles background, Korea hasexcelled in the last decade in thedevelopment of electronics with textile-basedmaterials to create hybrid structures forwireless, interactive applications. Koreancompanies have a worldwide reputation forthe development and manufacturing of highperformance textiles.

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Division 2001 2002 2003 (Estimated)

Exports US$16.08 billion US$15.67 billion US$15.25 billionImports US$4.86 billion US$5.69 billion US$5.90 billionProduction 3.04 million tons 2.72 million tons 2.62 million tonsDomestic 1.55 million tons 1.18 million tons 1.06 million tonsdemand

Table 3.2 Exports, imports, production and domestic demand in Korea

3.5 Comparative summary

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Japan Korea UK

Population 127 million SK 49 million 60 millionNK 23 million

Land mass 378,000 km2 SK 98,190 km2 295,000 km2

NK 120,410 km2

GDP (2003) $3.6 trillion SK $855.3 billion $1.7 trillionNK $22.9 billion

GDP growth (2003) 2.3% SK 2.8% 2.1%NK 1%

GDP per capita (2003) $28,000 SK $17,000 $27,700NK $1,000

Average wage £42,000 (M) – £24,000£20,000 (F) –

Unemployment (2003) 5.1% SK 3.4% 5.0%Table 3.3 Comparisons between Japan, Korea and UK (SK – South Korea, NK – North Korea)

4 OUTLINE OF COMPANY VISITS

AND ACTIVITIES

4.1 Japan Chemical Fibres

Association (JCFA) – Osaka

JCFA (www.fcc.co.jp/JCFA) consists of 42member companies; 35 regular members(fibre manufacturers and yarn spinners) and 7associate members (raw materialmanufacturers and allied processingcompanies). Currently there are 7 textileprojects supported by the JapaneseGovernment at ¥2,530,000,000. Details of theseven national textile R&D projects wereprovided – eg increasing the tenacity of nylonand polyester, supercritical CO2 processing(Section 5.9), spinning of cellulosic fibre,electrospinning, etc. The projects, whichinvolve industry and academia combined withpublic funding, had budgets ranging from ¥150 million to ¥700 million.

In response to increased competition fromChina and other countries, the focus is onfunctionality of products to give value addedcharacteristics, as follows:

• Light/heat• Moisture/water• Stretch/light weight• Ease of handling• Safety• Health and sanitation• Environmental/energy saving

A review of recent press coverage reportedstrong interest in hygiene. A comparison ofthe number of filed patents 1977-81 and1992-1996 revealed a significant increase inanti-microbe and biodegradable filings.

Recent R&D awards were primarily forimparting new fibre functionality, and it wasreported that the next generation chemical

fibre research would focus on biotechnologyfor the production of ethylene and polyesterand spider silk. JCFA also expressed aninterest in nanotechnology, conducting fibres,chelate fibres and antiallergy fibres.

4.2 Nihon Sanmo Dyeing Co Ltd –

Kyoto

Nihon Sanmo Dyeing has an R&Ddepartment of five engineers and a total staffof 73. The company was established in 1938,and currently has three main brands oftechnical products, while still retaining theirtraditional fibre dyeing plant.

The main products related to our interest were:

• Thunderon® – acrylic and nylon treatedwith copper sulphide chemically bonded tothe fibre to give a highly conductive yarn;the copper also makes the product antibacterial with resistance to MRSA

• DEW® and DEW® White – antibacterialand odour eliminating fibres treated usingcopper sulphide

More details on the product and theirtechnologies can be found in Section 5.3.

4.3 Toyobo Research Centre – Osaka

Originally a cotton spinner, Toyobo(www.toyobo.co.jp) is now a producer ofsynthetics, including fine nylon and polyester,acrylic fibres with the ability to produce heatand absorb water and polyethylene. Thecompany is moving from garment to non-garment fibres with increased fibrefunctionality. For example, among theirportfolio, products that were of interest to themission included:

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• Increased strength polyester – about 10% of global production

• Poly-(p-phenylenebenzobisoxazole) (PBO) • Dyneema® – an ultra high molecular

weight polyethylene fibre produced by the gel-spinning technique; the silver colourfibre also has high light resistance

• ESPA®, a polyurethane elastic fibre• Polyphenylene sulphide (PPS), a heat

resistant crystalline polymer with goodchemical resistance

• Gold coloured Zylon®, which has very high heat resistance – as a replacement for asbestos

• Sanitary fibres – using anti-microbials toincorporate into the fibre.

• Aquamarble®, polyester fibre used as fillerfor Japanese bedding

• Composite and mixed spinning, egFIRACIS® where the inner core of cotton or rayon is surrounded by nylon or polyester

• Toyobo Silver Rod (silver ions on acrylic fibre) – becoming photocatalyticunder natural light

• Epicomodo® – product to protect against MRSA

• Moist Care – high moisture transportation fibres

• Magic Powder – acrylic powder used togive outer wear high moisture breathabilityand water resistance as used by Gore-tex®

• EKS® – heat generating fibre; absorbsperspiration and generates heat; a new fibre(not yet named) that combines EKS anddeodorising properties was also discussed

• DOW XLA – stretch polypropylene – highchemical resistance, soft stretch, resistantto 220ºC

The company’s philosophy of development isbased on three principles:

• K – going to extremes on new development• F – deal with composites and hybrid

processes and functions• S – think about the end product and the user

Toyobo has good contacts with the UK, inparticular UMIST. The direction of newproduct development would be fed back toUK manufacturers to inform them of fibreproperties and novel property capabilities.

4.4 Teijin – Osaka

The Teijin Group companies (www.teijin.co.jp)amount to a total of 173, based both in Japanand overseas. Altogether, the Group employsa total of 20,551 worldwide. Originally a fibreproducer, the company has now diversifiedinto a broad range of activities, including filmand plastic production, the pharmaceuticalsand health care industry, machinery andengineering and new businesses.

Two areas of interest from the Teijin Groupwere the nano and conductive materialsareas. Teijin believes carbon nanotubes willbe very important to enhance theperformance of polymers. The key problemis price, but conductivity and high modulusare crucial. In the nano field, the companyhas developed a fibre called Morphotex®,which has colour without any dyes, and adeodorising treatment calledPermafreshy®, which is applied as a nanocoating (Section 5.8).

In the conductive fibre field, Teijin producesTechnora®, an aramide fibre, which has beentried by Connex, with various ratios of carbonto give different levels of conductivity. Theyare interested in a range of conductivity from10-5 to 1016 coulombs per centimetre –specifically 102 to 106. They currently supplyconductive fibres for copying machines – asmemory, charger or cleaning brushes.

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These are precision items with no dustinvolved and must be static free. They supplycopper and nickel fibres. They also supplycarbon dispersion fibres.

Teijin are also part of the New EnergyDevelopment programme looking atprocessing with supercritical carbon dioxide(Section 5.9).

4.5 Shinshu University – Nagano

Shinshu University (www.tex.shinshu-u.ac.jp) Department of Kansei Engineering isdeveloping a new technological concept thatcan be used for all new projects (citylandscapes, buildings, textiles, productdesign etc) to produce the Kansei –individual design (in contrast tounsatisfactory mass production). Thedepartment is active in a range of disciplinesand consists of 80 PhD students, 40 fromcompanies. A number of new areas ofresearch were described:

• Spider silk – fibre has been produced fromsilkworm cocoons with spider genes; the fibre has not yet been fully evaluated

• Carbon nanotubes• Stretch wool – commercial suiting

fabric available• Amino treated cottons for jeans – for comfort• Non-iron cotton shirting fabrics• Testing – circular tensile machine to

measure sagging and recovery• Machine to measure mechanical properties

of fibres• 3D scanning and pattern manipulation

on CAD

4.6 Diaplex – Tokyo

Diaplex (www.diaplex.co.jp) is a subsidiaryof Mitsubishi Heavy Industries Ltd,producing shape memory polymers (SMP).The polymer produced is responsive totemperature, imparting shape memoryeffects programmable within temperatures

of -40ºC and +120ºC within a band of 10ºC.Refinement of this band has so far led toincreased brittleness. The polymer, alsocalled Diaplex (Section 5.7),can be producedas film, coating, pellets or solution, can betreated with an antibacterial or antimicrobialchemical, and can be applied to knitted andstretch fabrics and used in variousapplications, eg:

• Garments – breathable, waterproof,condensation proof

• Tyres for spacecraft• Handles for disabled use• Dolls hair• Screws for rapid disassembly• Medical – intravenous cannula etc• Artificial nails, skin foundation (Kanebo)

Steps have been taken to make theproduction process and product moreenvironmentally friendly, by removing thesolvent DMF currently used to emphasisethe gas permeability functions in newapplications, and to work on the nextgeneration polymer.

4.7 National Institute of Advanced

Industrial Science and Technology

(AIST) – Tsukuba

Formerly MITI operated, and with over 100years of history, AIST (www.aist.go.jp) was

Figure 4.1 AIST organisational chart

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formed in 2001. It consists of ten researchinstitutes around Japan, funded by thegovernment and industry, but now gainingindependence from government control onprojects. The institute is committed topromoting advanced research projects,pursue research for long-term governmentalpolicies, and carry out fundamental researchfor science and technology (Figure 4.2). In recent years, the institute has increasedcollaboration with the industry. In 2000,there were 3 cases of contract researchfrom industry amounting to ¥9 million. In 2003, there were 145 collaborationsamounting to ¥1,227 million.

Three areas of research relative to themission were:

• Mental Commit Robot ‘Paro’ – robot sealpups used in the rehabilitation of sickchildren and elderly people; the robot usesubiquitous Surface Tactile Sensors thatcould be used in seating or vehicles

• Humanoids used for construction and aself-organising robot that changes shapefor earthquake rescue

• ‘Personal Positioning’ based on walkinglocomotion analysis – a wearablecomputer; this is a backpack with wirelesscomputer, camera, microphone andearphone that allows remote assistance

More details are given in Section 5.6.

4.8 Korea Textile Development

Institute (KTDI) – Daegu

KTDI (www.textile.or.kr) supports the localtextile industry in the Daegu area from a newProduct Development Centre. The facilitiesinclude an extrusion plant for new fibredevelopment through to weaving, knitting anddesign. The R&D is responsive and mainlyfocuses on field based current research togive high value added multifunctionalsolutions to customer requests.

The Korean textile industry is working onshape memory, nanotechnologies andwearable electronics and textile basedadvanced materials and processes involvingother fields of application with largecompanies, and some programmes are inplace with European universities.

4.9 Korean Dyeing Technology Centre

(DYETEC) – Daegu

DYETEC (www.dyetec.or.kr) is a non-profitmaking organisation founded in 1994 toenhance dyeing and finishing technology anddeliver production of high value-added textileproducts that provide advanced functionalitywith high quality.

DYETEC provides a pilot plant service to giveincreased competitiveness to the localindustry of 120 mills. It is a joint venturesponsored by the central government (theMinistry of Commerce, Industry andEnergy), the municipal government (DaeguCity) and the private sector (Daegu DyeingIndustrial Complex). Ciba, Clariant andDyestar have all worked with DYETEC.

The centre is putting emphasis on theenvironment, and has a central watertreatment plant and monitoring centre ofeffluent to air and water. The water pollutionis controlled using electronic beams. DYETEChas industrialised a natural dyestuff fornatural fibres. The centre concentrates on

Figure 4.2 AIST activities (Source: AIST)

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energy saving dyeing technology and the useof low plasma technology, which is at theexperimental stage. The latter treatment isused to prepare fabrics for dyeing.

DYETEC offers a service for design, colour,CAD and digital printing:

• Digital printing technology – they havedeveloped the route to pre-treatment ofcotton, silk and polyester to give theoptimum dye clarity

• Electron beams used on the machines forwater purification treatment are sometimesalso used to polymerise the fabrics surfacebefore dyeing; this method could be usedto treat polypropylene for surface dyeing

• Natural dyestuffs: following a five-yearstudy on stability of natural dyes there isnow a commercial route for dyeing naturalfibres; low light fastness is still a problem

• It also participates in the Milan Project –to re-shape the Daegu province and placeKorea as a design centre of the world, like Milan

4.10 Kolon – Central Research Park –

Fibres and Textiles – Daegu

The first Kolon technology research centre(www.kolon.com) was established in 1978,focusing on basic textile research. Operationshave since diversified, and expanded to theplastics, films, magnetic recording materialsand other polymer-related areas, as well ashigh-tech speciality chemicals, new materialsand bio-engineering. The Central ResearchPark, which was originally the Kolon CentralResearch Institute, was established in 1992to develop core polymer and chemicaltechnologies. The park has well equippedlaboratories, focusing on key technologyareas (Figure 4.3). It is based on a businessphilosophy of trust and dedication to thecustomer, sharing corporate profits withsociety: ‘one & only’ and ‘rich & famous’. The centre has a CVC (not a CEO), who theyname Chief Vision Creator.

5% of the revenue is spent on R&D acrossthe company in 5 R&D centres, which coverthe following areas:

• Automotive textiles, airbags and seat belts• Microfibres – Chamude• Gel spinning – 20 g/den

Figure 4.3 Key technology areas at Kolon (Source: Kolon)

16


4.11 Korea Federation of Textile

Industries (KOFOTI) – Seoul

The Korean Federation of Textile Industries(www.kofoti.or.kr) provides information on theKorean textile industry, from traditionalactivities to cutting-edge technical fibres andinnovative products. It also compiles andsupplies statistics for the Korean textileindustry. KOFOTI revealed that Korea isbeginning to focus on smart textiles, lookingfor something tangible to work with.Samsung, for example, is collaborating withacademia in a project on tagging for textileclothing. It was recognised that fundamentaltextile knowledge is required in a newgeneration textile education system to bringsmart textiles together with other disciplines– electronics. The universities are nowcooperating on smart materials.

In the nanotechnology field, although thetechnology is still elementary, there will be afocus on production rates in electrospinning.

Highly conductive coatings are available atresearch level, none of the major fibremanufacturers are producing highlyconductive yarns, and only an anti-static yarnis commercially available.

The current technology does not allow themanufacture of a highly conductive yarn,however electronic companies are requestingsuch a yarn. Samsung have an interest inwearable computers, and are looking atmovement definition sensors for sportstraining, golf and tennis.

Tetra and nano level devices and semi-conductors are in research at the Ministry ofCommunications.

4.12. Hyosung – R&D Centre – Seoul

Hyosung (www.hyosung.com) wasestablished in 1957 and has become one ofthe big seven Korean Chaebols. Havingstarted with synthetic fibres, Hyosung hasdiversified and expanded its business linesand advanced into synthetic fibre, chemicals,industrial, construction, trading and IT. Itoperates 30 overseas subsidiaries, producinga range of products, including nylon, spandexand polyester. Research within Hyosung isunder way in the sportswear, digital andmedical areas, such as artificial bonedevelopment, Chitosan for use in cosmeticmasks, artificial skin and polyglycolic acidpolymers for sutures. The company also hasinterests in developments in the field ofbreathable fabrics, polymer processing,wearable computing and conducting fibres.R&D is focused on higher value products, of which the following were of interest:

Figure 4.4 Films produced at Kolon: (a) light diffusing, (b) polyester, and (c) dry film photoresist(Source: Kolon)

• Finestar® – microfibre polyester and nylonconjugated yarn for cleaning cloths andabsorbent towels

• Aerocool® – wicking moisture and heataway from the body

• Neopol® – stretch yarn for apparel andupholstery, automotive

• M2 Micro Miracle® – a micro fibre withantimicrobial properties (silver based) forapparel, upholstery and automotive use

• Amicro® – supplied as filament or texturedyarn – provides an antimicrobial treatmentinside the yarn

• BioSilver® – made of a reformed polymer– is permanently germ and scent free,gives off far infrared rays and has amoisture absorption fast-drying function

4.13 Samsung – Advanced Institute

of Technology

Samsung (www.sait.samsung.co.kr) R&DCentre consists of more than 1,000 people (at least 400 have a PhD). The company isinvolved in developing wearable electronicsand flexible screens, and is collaboratingwith academe in a project aimed atelectronically tagging clothing. Recognisingthe importance of future hybrid products,Samsung has expressed an interest tocollaborate and share technical informationin the area of electronic textiles.

17


18


5 MISSION FINDINGS

Multi-functional textile materials are now being developed by many so-calledtraditional, but also other companies new or already established in other fields. These materials are primarily flexible, made of fibrous assemblies, and havediverse applications beyond the popularones connected with apparel.

Nano and smart products are being used inevery industry, and we are seeing a newindustrial development in the making, withtechnical textiles playing a central role. Thebusiness benefits for this role are potentiallylucrative if textile expertise is combined withother know-how to arrive in new products.

The trend in Japan and Korea has been forthe larger traditional textile companies toalso diversify into a broader range ofproducts. Surprisingly, this diversification isnot just into higher added-value technicaltextiles but also into completely new areas.Toyobo, for example, has moved into filmsfor packaging, high performance resins,

and functional materials and biotechnology.The company has also developed asignificant market share approaching 25% in medical membranes based on hollowcellulose fibres.

The mission found that Japanese fibrecompanies are not placing any emphasison research into military end uses;research is rather focused on consumerrelated areas. The following sectionsprovide a synopsis of latest developmentsin the Japanese and South Koreancompanies and universities visited.

5.1 General functional textiles

The development trend of functionalsynthetic fibres and textiles in Japan hasbeen growing over the past 10 years, and vast amounts of investments havebeen made in research to continue thistrend. Adding new functions to materialsseems a prominent and continual feature of Japanese R&D.

Characteristic Fibre and textile

Light/heat Ultraviolet ray shielding, far infrared radiation, heat storage, heat insulationMoisture/water Water repellency, waterproof, moisture permeation and waterproof,

moisture absorption, water absorption and fast dryStretch and light weight Stretch material, light weightEasiness of handling Shrink and wrinkle resistant, soil release/soil repellencySafety High strength, flame proof, electrostatic charge prevention, conductive,

electromagnetic wave shieldHealth and sanitary Anti microbe, anti bacteria odour preventing, mite control, deodorisation,

minus ion radiation, health careEnvironmental harmony Recycling goodsand energy saving

Table 5.1 Key areas of Japanese textile research

Responsive research is also on the cards.For example, AIST has been involved in thedevelopment of innovative technologies forefficient utilisation of electrical and thermalenergy resources, energy conservationtechnologies, and the development ofenvironmentally friendly energy sources suchas solar cells. Table 5.1 highlights some of thekey areas Japan is looking at in order to addvalue to materials.

5.2 Technical fibres and yarns

The Koreans have mastered the developmentof a range of technical yarns and fibres foruse in specific products. At Kolon, forexample, yarns for applications such ashoses, activated adhesive, super low-shrinkage products, anti-wicking, seat beltwebbing, airbags etc, have been developedand commercialised. Reacting to the strongdemand in polyester technical yarns, thecompany is also expanding its facilities,optimising the use of technology forcompetitiveness and high productivity anddeveloping new unique items.

One example of a state-of-the art polyesterfibre developed at Kolon is Coolon®, a fibrewith unique gloss, comfortable and pleasanthandle, and superior draping characteristics.Coolon® is currently being used in thesportswear market, but is expected to betaken up by the casual wear market too.

Dycel®, one of Kolon’s speciality nylon fibres,satisfies a current fashion demand for anatural, matt look, rather than the traditionalglossy look of synthetic fibres. The dullnessof the fibre is produced by adding largeamounts of titanium dioxide to nylon.Concurrently, the draping qualities of fabricsmade with Dycel® were greatly improved.

At Hyosung, nylon and polyesterperformance fibres and yarns are beingproduced for a range of applications, frombasic woven and knitting fabrics, to specialityuses. The MIPAN nylon range, for example,includes super micro, melange, moistureabsorbing, fast drying, silver-containingantibacterial, luminant and low melting pointyarns. Selected other high performancematerials include:

19


Figure 5.1 Thin film siliconsolar cell (Source: AIST)

Figure 5.3 Cross section ofCoolon® fibres(Source: Kolon)

Figure 5.2 Technical yarns for airbags (Source: Kolon)

Figure 5.4 Bicomponent yarn(Source: Hyosung)

• Bicomponent conjugate yarns (consistingof polyester and nylon in one filament,which are separated after weaving)

• Nylon bonding yarns (used for sewingthreads for shoes, car seats and circularknitting)

• M2® (Micro Miracle), an ultra-fine fibrecharacterised by soft touch, bulkiness,flexibility and profound colours

• FIREX®, containing fireproof materials • AEROCOOL®, having a yarn section shaped

like a four-leaf clover, to facilitate the drawingof moisture through four capillary tubes

• Advanced tyre cords (nylon/polyester) andsuperior constructions, and high strengthsteel cord

• Bead wire for tyre rims• Tarpaulins

5.3 Antibacterial and odour-

eliminating properties

The trend of functional products for clothingappears definitely to be growing towardsantimicrobial, odour prevention anddeodorising properties. Over the past fewyears, there has been a significant increasein the number of patents applied for in newtechnology, particularly in the health andsanitising field.

Adding silver yarns or copper yarns is nowcommon practice in sanitising products.Companies such as Nihon Sanmo Dyeinguse copper to not only reduce odour in

materials but also for absorbing electrostaticcharges (used in carpets etc). TheThunderon® fibre from Nihon SanmoDyeing, for example, has good electricalconductivity and corona discharge character1,but also strong antibacterial and deodorisingproperties. The properties are imparted bythe chemical impregnation of coppersulphide on the surface of a synthetic fibre.The fibres are being used in tubularbandages and a range of other products.Because of their anti-static properties, theycan also be used in carpets, as a printer headcleaner and in gloves to prevent staticdischarge. The conducting element is basedon the copper chemistry, which also providesthe conductive and antimicrobial effect. Theblue colour is associated with the copper,and is claimed to actually kill the bacteria.

From the same company, the Dew® processimparts antimicrobial properties to fibres.Research showed that 99.99% of 100,000 bacteria could be eliminated in 20-60 minutes, with the results being visibleto the naked eye. The treatment has beentested on common moulds and bacteria suchas the pathogenic E-coli O-157, staphylococcusaureus, rat typhus bacteria, pseudomonasaerugosa, MRSA, enterococcus, colitis(escherichia), enteric virus, salmonella,klebsiella pneumoniase, legionella andclostridium perfringens. Figure 5.6 shows theantimicrobial action of the Dew® fibres.

In terms of odour neutralising performance,Dew® White, which can be used to treatnatural fibres such as cotton, wool andstaple rayon, provides washable, long lastingodour elimination, without negativelyaffecting the comfort, softness and handle ofthe material. Treated fibres absorb smellschemically, and release the smells uponwashing (Figure 5.7).

20


Figure 5.5 Tyre cords (Source:Hyosung)

1 Corona discharges are very small electrical energy discharges, which occur without the generation of sparks. Having a fine conductive material near the

surface of static charged ones will ionise the air, which then acts as a carrier of electrons. Thunderon® fibres have the ideal properties to introduce such

corona discharges because of the fineness of the conductive layer, making them ideal for developing very fine conductive materials.

A number of companies are producingantimicrobial fibres for use in medicalapplications. Among these is a fibre, madeby Kanebo Gogsen, containing silver, whichhas excellent antibacterial activity and iscurrently used in foam dressing applications.Kanebo Gogsen incorporates the silver atthe early stage of fibre production, which issaid to give lasting antibacterial effect evenafter multiple washes. Makspen® is a fabricbeing used for nurses’ uniforms or bed linenwhich contains a non-formalin basedantibacterial agent.

5.4 Moisture management

Developments in water management fabricsappear to be a primary focus for Toyobo. Thiscompany has a laboratory (C-Space) forinvestigating the comfort of materials interms of the micro space between skin and

clothing and living space. The ComfortEvaluation and Design Group at Toyobofocuses on the comfortability of products in aliving space, and on the micro space betweenskin and clothing (Table 5.2). It does so byquantitatively measuring the senses reflectingthe human physiology. Studying therelationship between needs and consumerexpectations, the group found that theimportance of physiological and psychologicalfactors increases in proportion to theexpectation level. Primary factors of wearcomfort included:

• For microclimate within clothes:temperature, humidity, micro space airstream between skin and clothing

• For clothing pressure: skin pressurecaused by clothing

• For tactile properties: touch and feel (soft,warm, cool)

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Figure 5.8 Microclimate within clothing (Source: Toyobo) Figure 5.7 Mechanism of the Dew® White action(Source: Nihon Sanmo Dyeing)

Figure 5.6 Antimicrobial action (count of live microbes) of Dew® (Source: Nihon Sanmo Dyeing)

Odour (ammonia)

Washing or Exposing to the sun

Odour (ammonia) Catch the odour!

DEW® White

DEW® WhiteDEW® White

DEW® White

22


ApplicationNew productTechnologyFeeling

Microclimate

within clothing

Clothing

pressure

Damp

Sticky

Coolness

Warmth

Humid

Microclimate

simulator

Sweat thermal

mannequin

(TOM® II)

(Figure 5.9)

Leg shape apparatus

for measuring

clothing pressure

Measurement

of dynamic clothing

pressure

Water dispersion

image analyser

Measurement

of sticky feeling

Altima®

Firacis®

Alsace

EKSLIVE®

EKS®

AIR DRIVE®

MOISCARE®

Inner wear

Sportswear, athletic

wear

Shirts

Work clothes,

uniforms

Bedding

Protective clothing

Table 5.2 R&D at Toyobo’s C-Space

Tactile sense

Measurement

of lying posture

Measurement

of pressure

distribution

Measurement

of tactile sense

Measurement

of heat flow

Figureism® Bedding

Easiness to

moveNEOTOROM® Sportswear

Tightening

sense

Skin model

Sweat thermal new

mannequin (SAM®)

Cool & Dry®

COOLGEAR®

Warm & Dry®

Pantyhose

IFFI®

XXX®

A new product, which was quite interestingto see, developed by Toyobo, was a fibre thatgenerated heat when it absorbs moisture.This could be a very interesting field foroutdoor wear/underwear. Product samplesare available on request. Technologies tomake fibres more hydrophilic/hydrophobic arealso being developed.

According to Japan Chemical FibresAssociation, a fibre is being developedwhich has a hydrophilic core surrounded bya hydrophobic periphery. This fibre will actas artificial wool. Absorption in the fibre willbe via capillary action. This is not based onsurface treatment, therefore the durabilityof the fibre/fabric will last the lifetime of the garment.

5.5 Medical applications of textiles

In Korea, Hyosung is developing artificialbones, equipment for dialysis, and wounddressings using chitin. An exciting area the company is researching into is thedevelopment of flexible artificial skin fabrics, which are to be used to cure burnvictims, etc.

They have approached this in two ways:

• Tissue engineering• Artificial material used; non-living cells

Kolon has developed Korea’s first hollow fibreultra-filtration membranes, which are beingused in haemodialysis machines in thehealthcare industry. The membranes can alsobe used for a multitude of filtration purposes,including water purifiers. R&D continues inthe area of speciality membranes.

In Japan, hollow cellulose fibres are beingproduced by Toyobo to be used as medicalmembranes, primarily in artificial kidneys.Toyobo is also developing a polysulfonehollow fibre for this purpose which hasexcellent biological compatibility and removeslow molecular weight proteins such as B-2microglobulin that cause problems in dialysis.

Research in the medical and healthcare fieldsis also being done by AIST, which is focusingon biomaterial technologies, medicaldiagnosis, R&D of medical treatmentsupporting systems and welfare devices, andapplied sensing technology for human stressand physiological conditions.

As with many healthcare products availableover the counter, Japan and Korea are oftenfirst to market the latest consumerinnovations. Temperature modifying shoeinsoles and fashionable compression hosieryproducts for tired legs were among manyproducts that we have seen on the shelves.

The area of wearable electronics is covered inthe next section, however the application ofwearable systems in medicine is beingconsidered in both Japan and Korea.Applications include:

23


Figure 5.10 Ultra filtrationmembranes(Source: Kolon)

Figure 5.11 Bone formation inporous ceramic(Source: AIST)

Figure 5.9 Sweat thermalmannequin TOM® II

• Direct relay of visual and life sign data tohospitals from paramedics at accident sites

• Assistance to the visually impaired bydirect visual link to a carer

• The application of wearable electronics inmedical training with direct links todatabases/pharmacists, etc

5.6 Robotics and wearable

electronics

It is clear that both Japan and Korea have astrong interest in the development ofnanoelectronics for incorporation into fibres.This work includes the development of nanodata storage devices, which will allow up to250,000 text pages to be stored on a filmthe size of a postage stamp. More recentresearch will allow even greater storagedensity to be achieved on smaller devices.In principle, this opens the way for verylarge medical databases, including videofootage of medical procedures to be storedin wearable systems, and remoteassistance to medical personnel becomes areal possibility.

Smart fabrics were being utilised at AIST inrobot animal assisted therapy using a robotictoy harp seal named PARO (Figure 5.12).Children are known to recover better fromillness with regular contact with pets,although often this is not possible forhygiene reasons. PARO has tactile, vision,audition and posture sensors, along with 7 actuators in the outer anti-biotic fur. The robot also has an integrated behaviourgeneration system, prompting it to behavelike a real animal.

PARO was substituted for real animals to treatchildren at a university hospital, and the resultsshowed that moods and communication weregreatly improved. One striking example of theeffect of the robot is the recovery of appetiteand speech abilities by a young autistic patientwhile PARO was at the hospital. This therapywas reported to be extremely effective, and isin regular use. It has also been extended torobot-assisted activities for elderly people, andhas been shown to reduce patient demandson nursing staff.

Wearable computing appeared to be a keyfeature of development at AIST, where, forexample, the incorporation of computers/video cameras etc in clothing was beinginvestigated. The Intelligent Interface ResearchGroup at AIST, for example, is developing theWEAVY wearable visual interface system, anovel and practical wearable interface systemthat can enable human-centred interactionbased on computer vision, multi-sensorfusion, and augmented reality techniques(Figure 5.13). A particular application for thiswould be in the fire station to communicatebetween fire fighters and their informationbase. More generally, however, the WEAVYtechnology can be used for personalnavigation, maintenance assistance, context-aware agents, and perpetual user interfaces.

The Intelligent Interface Research Groupgenerally focuses on developing humaninterface technologies that enable computersto recognise and understand, or infer andlearn, visual, auditory, tactile and otherinformation. The objectives are to becomeable to read human expressions, and interactwith people. The research being carried out

24


Figure 5.12 The therapeutic seal-like robotPARO (Source: AIST)

includes ubiquitous and wearable devices,agents and assistant technologies for varioushuman activities through computer processingof speeches and images, and technologies formental-calming robots (such as PARO, whichwas developed by the group).

It was noted that in Japan there is collaborationbetween electronic companies and textile fibreproducers, many of the large companiesowning both technologies. However, there areno commercial products as yet.

In South Korea, the wearable electronicssector is thriving, dominated by Samsungtechnologies. However, overall there appearsto be a slow communication between textile

companies and electronic companies inSouth Korea. Textile companies know vastamounts in the textile field but lackelectronic expertise, and vice versa forelectronic companies. This situation isperhaps being addressed, as universities inSouth Korea are preparing their students forthe next generation of studies for smarttextiles. At present, there is a collaborativerelationship between the university andSamsung for developing electronic taggingsystems. In terms of developing flexiblePDAs in textiles, this area has not yet beenfully exploited. Samsung, however, is takinga particular interest in this technology, aswell as in organic, metal and conductivefibres and layers.

There is some interest in conducting fibres inSouth Korea. Highly conductive fibres areavailable at the research level, but major fibresuppliers are not producing conductive fibresat this stage.

5.7 Shape memory materials

Mitsubishi Heavy Industries have developedsome very interesting technology with shapememory polymers based on polyurethanes.These materials are temperature sensitive,and modify both shape and hardness arounda controllable glass transition temperature.This characteristic is being exploited in themaking of garments that are comfortable andwatertight, without a clammy feeling. Theshape memory material fabric, DiAPLEX,which consists of an ultra-thin non-porouspolymer membrane, is designed to react at aspecific transition temperature. Uponreaching the transition temperature insidethe garment (eg during strenuous physicalactivity, or external temperature changes),the membrane automatically becomes morewaterproof or more permeable, as required.

When the membrane is surrounded bysufficient heat, the material is activated toexpand and becomes breathable in order to

25


Figure 5.13 Wearable components of WEAVY at theIntelligent Interface Research Group, AIST(Source: AIST)

increase moisture and vapour permeability.Micro-Brownian motion, taking place at pre-determined temperatures, allows themolecules in the membrane to form freespace. At increasing temperatures, themolecular configuration changes, leading tothe formation of free space, and enabling thetransfer of heat and vapour from perspiration.

When the temperature drops to below thetransition temperature, the membraneremains closed in order to act as an insulator.The polymer molecular chains form acontinuous surface, restricting the transfer ofvapour and heat. In some ways, thismembrane can be considered anadvancement on membranes developed bythe likes of Gore-Tex®, used in outdoor wear.

This technology is used for clothing andsportswear, but is also being developed formedical applications, for example in intravenouscannula where the hollow tube has a Tg aroundbody temperature and becomes soft and hencemore comfortable for the patient when inposition. The material is also being suggestedfor use in sutures. Numerous potentialapplications can be considered for such amaterial in catheters and valves, as well aspotentially in wound care. Suggestedapplications also include stents, orthodonticsupport wires, arterial clips, handicap utensils,film for vegetable storage, self-creep-restoration protection covers for auto assemblylines, self-deployable spacecraft architecture,curly-straight doll hair, and anti-scald devices.

The Research Institute for Flexible Materials(RIFleX) at Heriot-Watt University in the UKhas pioneered between 2001-04 the spinningof DiAPLEX polymer into fibres, which havesubsequently been successfully made into avariety of yarns and woven/knitted in a varietyof smart structures2,3.

26


Figure 5.14 DiAPLEX at increasing temperature(Source: DiAPLEX)

Figure 5.15 Close structure DiAPLEX at lowtemperatures (Source: DiAPLEX)

Figure 5.16 DiAPLEX properties (Source: DiAPLEX)

2 Winchester, R. C. C., Stylios, G. K., ‘The Concept of Designing and Engineering Knitted Textiles using Shape Memory Alloy’, Advanced Flexible Materials and

Structures: Engineering with Fibres, The Fibre Society 2003 Spring Symposium, June 30 – July 2, 2003, Loughborough University, UK

3 Chan, Y. Y. F., Stylios, G. K., ‘Engineering the Design Attributes of Woven Interior Textiles Using Shape Memory Polymer’, Advanced Flexible Materials and

Structures: Engineering with Fibres, The Fibre Society 2003 Spring Symposium, June 30 – July 2, 2003, Loughborough University, UK

27


Figure 5.17 Uses of artificial leatherChamude®: (a) suede, (b) bags, and (c) jackets (Source: Kolon)

5.8 Micro- and nano-scale advances

On a micro-scale, Kolon has successfullydeveloped and commercialised micro-fibreartificial leather Chamude®, which involves asmuch as 20 different manufacturingprocesses during its intricate production. Themanufacturing of Chamude® involvessophisticated fibre technology, non-woventechnology, polymer impregnation, dyeing,and highly precise process control technology.The material looks and feels like naturalleather, with the benefits of betterproductivity and functionality, and increasedapplicability. Uses include footwear, insoles,gloves, furniture, automotive interiors, bagsand so on.

In Japan, the development of ‘spider silk’ hasreached quite an advanced stage forresearchers at Shinshu University. Forexample, for the past five years they havebeen developing the fibre by inserting spidergenes into the chromosomal DNA ofsilkworms – so when the silkworm spins itssilk, it will have the strength of a spider’s web.

Toyobo researchers have developed ultra-finefibres, namely microfibres, to draw moisture

away from the body, and undoubtedly theyhave extended their research into looking atdeveloping nanofibres, which are now beingdeveloped but are commercially sensitive.

Another example of Japan’s advancement intextile science by Shinshu University is in thearea of carbon nanofibre composites.Researchers at the university have developeda nano powder that can store 3,300 farad pergram. This is said to be five to six timesbetter than activated carbon fibres!

Another interesting development in theJapanese nano field, is the development byTeijin of the only optical colouring fibre in theworld, Morphotex®, using ultra-fine layertechnology (Figure 5.18). The fibre is based onthe natural colouration characteristics of the‘Morpho butterfly’ from South America, beingable to show various expressions of colour,depending on the angle or intensity of theincident light. Morphotex® consists of 61layers of alternating polyester and nylon,which are in the region of 70 nm in thickness.The colour is obtained by light interference,and not by conventional dyeing. Currently,four basic colours of Morphotex® areavailable (red, green, blue and violet).

Figure 5.18 Morphotex® fibres: (a) as fabrics, (b) colouring principles, and (c) cross sections (Source: Kolon)

From 2001, the company has beeninvestigating potential application areas. One example is in the automotive area, as areplacement for mica-containing paints.Currently producing kilogram quantities, theyare scaling up to produce tonne quantities.

The company has also developed a‘nanocoating’ system, whereby a binder isapplied to each fibre on a nanoscale in orderto increase the function’s (eg sanitising)durability. Called Parmafreshy® nano-coating, the treatment involves applying abinder of 50-200 nm to each filament duringprocessing. A deodorising agent is thenapplied to provide functionality and retainsoft texture. Performance is retained for upto 30 washings.

Japanese R&D in nanotechnology alsoincludes efforts by AIST in atomicarchitectonics and molecular engineering on ananometre scale, new techniques of extremelyprecise machining of solid materials, and theconstruction of infinitesimally smallassemblies. It is expected that the outcome ofthe research efforts can contribute to newpossibilities for development in the informationtechnology, biotechnology and environmentaltechnology fields.

In general, nanotechnology for fibres is stillbeing researched in Korea, but nanofibres areseen as an important emerging market.Many universities are looking into this field,but the government needs more convictionfor expenditure in this area. One company

has developed nanofibres using theelectrospinning process, and their technologyis in the process of being sold to DuPont.

5.9 Supercritical fluid processing

The Japanese government is funding a largenational project in this area. Supercritical fluidtechnology is well established in industries forextraction, cleaning and as a separationmedium in chromatography. Carbon dioxide israised above its critical temperature andpressure and has properties of solvation,which may be modified by the addition ofsmall molecules such as methanol, whichalter polarity in the system. Supercriticalcarbon dioxide has been used to extractcaffeine from coffee to produce decaffeinateddrinks for some time.

Very large scale supercritical processing isless common for a number of reasons, notleast the very high solvating power of themedium, which attacks valves, seals and otherconnections in the system. High pressurescan also be a problem, which usually restrictsthe choice of supercritical fluids to carbondioxide. The project has also looked at otherfluids, however, including supercritical water.The benefit of supercritical fluids are that theycan carry organic or polymeric materials into amedium such as a fibre or fabric, swell thematerial to allow ingress of the activesubstance, and release the solvent as a gasleaving no residual solvent as with traditionalsystems. They also are environmentallyfriendly if the gas is recycled.

28


Figure 5.19 Nanotechnology at AIST: (a) tailor-made molecular tubes, (b) drug delivery systems, and (c) singleelectron transistors (Source: AIST)

The Japanese are experimenting with verylarge scale processing of textiles at theHisaka Works. Mitsubishi Rayon is working ondyeing technology for polypropylene, andTeijin is looking at aramid dyeing. Interestinglythere is a project for the injection ofbiocompatible materials such as chitin andchitosan into other fibres. Such materials arewell known in woundcare as havingbiocompatible properties, and for use inwound dressings. The technology also offersa route to incorporate other actives into adressing. Specifically, there was someevidence of activity in the area of injectingcertain metal compounds which have strongantimicrobial activity.

There was also discussion of the use ofsupercritical fluids in polymer synthesis toproduce improved textile materials.

29


30


6 CONCLUSIONS AND

RECOMMENDATIONS

In summary, the mission found a high level ofgovernment support for textile companies inJapan and Korea for innovative research and adesire to move up the value chain intotechnical textiles and even into totally newareas of commerce.

It is clear that the electronics industry inJapan and Korea has an interest in wearableelectronics, although it is not clear howclosely the traditional textiles industry and theelectronics sector are working in this area.

In other areas of medical textiles there weresome interesting developments, and a desireto become more involved in, for example,active wound dressings.

Overall, the trip to Japan proved that they notonly have developed a very high level oftechnology in the field of textiles but theyhave invested in an infrastructure to continuein this way. Companies, although naturallyguarding their latest developments, havegiven us a clear impression of an industryflourishing with new technology. Often,though, technologies appeared to bedeveloped because they could be, rather thanin response to a clear consumer need, asexemplified by Morphotex.

The trip was incredibly beneficial in terms ofdeveloping new ideas for our own business,and also to understand where the technicaltextile industry is heading, and what particularfields are the ‘hot-spots.’ Nanotubing appearsto be the next big leap in technology,especially in terms of energy storage,alongside medical products for woundhealing, such as artificial skin.

Japan has an infrastructure in place tocontinually develop new products, and webelieve it will be here where the nextdevelopments in technical textiles will occur.

South Korea are pushing forward withimpressive R&D budgets, their industry isgrowing, and their future, particularly inwearable computing, is exciting.

There are opportunities from both SouthKorea and Japan for seeking relationships withthe UK to develop technical textiles. Eventhough the nanotechnology field does notappear to be that developed in South Korea,they do have a thriving industry for wearableelectronics, under the control of world-leadingelectronics companies such as Samsung.

31


Appendix AACKNOWLEDGMENTS

• The DTI Global Watch Service for fundingand assisting in the overall organisation ofthis mission

• The British Embassy in Tokyo and theConsulate in Osaka for helping in thelogistics and in the arrangement of ourstay and company visits

• The British Embassy in Seoul for helping inthe logistics and in the arrangement of ourstay and company visits

• All companies and universities that havereceived us and made our stay in bothcountries fruitful and enjoyable

• Pera Innovation Ltd for their suggestionson the Korean leg and their help fordissemination

• All mission members and their companiesfor supporting this mission

• My team at RIFleX and particularly DrSharon Lam and Ms Anita Hill for theircontinuous support throughout the mission

32


Appendix BKOREA’S IMPORTS AND EXPORTS

Figure B.1 Korean textiles and apparel exports and imports by item (Source: KOFOTI)

33


Figure B.2 Korean textiles and apparel exports and imports by country (Source: KOFOTI)

34


Appendix CMISSION PARTICIPANTS

MISSION LEADER

Organisation name: Heriot-Watt UniversityContact: Prof George K Stylios

Position: Professor of Textiles

Address: School of Textiles and DesignHeriot-Watt UniversityScottish Borders CampusNetherdaleGalashielsSelkirkshireTD1 3HF

Tel: 01896 892 136

Fax: 01896 758 965

Email: [email protected]

Website: http://www.hw.ac.uk/sbc/RIFleX

Company description: Academic institution with over 6,300 students, over 1,300 full-time staff and over 340 part-time staff spread over three campuses

Platform technologies: All information technology (IT) platforms; Wet and dry extrusion; Material measurement; High-tech pilot coating; Knitting and weaving

Areas for collaboration: Smart interactive clothing; Conductive textiles; Shape memory based textiles; High-tech coatings; Nano-textiles

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MISSION TEAM

Organisation name: Charles Owen & Co (Bow) LtdContact: Mr Roy Burek

Position: Managing Director

Address: Royal WorksCroesfoel Industrial EstateRhostyllenWrexham LL14 4BJ

Tel: 01978 317 777


Company description: Medium sized technical textiles company based in Wrexham. Founded 1911. Leading brand and manufacturer for equestrian safety helmets, safety clothing, gloves, boots and performance enhancing clothing. International sales office in UK and USA with distributors in other main markets. Holder of the Royal Warrant for Her Majesty the Queen. Company employs 90 people worldwide. Committee member of European and ASTM standard setting for equestrian helmets and clothing.

Platform technologies: Textile processing, product development

Areas for collaboration: Smart interactive clothingConductive textilesShape memory based textilesHigh-tech coatingsNano-textiles

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Organisation name: BTTG LtdContact: Mr Brian McCarthy

Position: Executive Manager

Address: Shirley HouseWilmslow RoadDidsburyManchester M20 2RX

Tel: 07841 590 657

Fax: 0161 434 9957


Website: www.bttg.co.uk

Company description: Testing and certification services; Research trade organisation; Technical textiles; Small sized company, based in Manchester

Platform Technologies: Textile testing and certification; Industrial training; British and CERN standards

Areas for collaboration: Smart interactive clothing; Conductive textiles; Shape memory based textiles; High-tech coatings; Nano-textiles

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Organisation name: SSL International plcContact: Dr Peter John Stephenson

Position: Group R&D Director

Address: 205 Milton RoadScience ParkCambridge CB4 OGZ

Tel: 07768 106 092

Fax: 0207 367 5790

Website: www.ssl-international.com

Company description: SSL International plc is a £700 million international healthcarecompany selling in over 130 countries. The Group has a medicaldivision with interests in medical devices for surgery includingsurgical gloves and antiseptics. The Group manufactures wound-care products including active and passive dressings, tubularbandages, medical compression hosiery and wound irrigationsolutions. In addition, the group owns the Scholl brand of foot-careand footwear products including dressings and remedies for foot-related problems. SSL has a strong interest in the use ofcompression hosiery in flight to help prevent deep vein thrombosis(DVT). SSL also sells a range of family planning products,household gloves and sport supports, and has a strong UKbusiness in over-the-counter pharmaceutical products.

Platform technologies: Technical textiles for medical and other uses

Areas for collaboration: High tech coatings; Nano-textiles; Nano-coatings; Smart interactiveclothing; Conductive textiles; Shape memory based textiles

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Organisation name: Interface Fabrics LtdContact: Ms Cheryl Kindness

Position: Development Director. Responsible for product development,design and technical services, with particular interests in newenvironmental fibre development, high flammability performance,and upholster ability characteristics of contract and transportationfabric solutions.

Address: Interface Fabrics Ltd Hopton MillsMirfield West Yorkshire WF14 8HE

Tel: 01924 490 591

Website: www.interfaceinc.com

Company description: Interface Fabrics are an established world leader in innovativetextile solutions for commercial interiors and transportation. The company is the name behind the world’s best sellingcontract seating fabric, Main Line Plus, which has sold over 30 million metres since launch, enough to cover nearly 45 millionchairs. Annual production from manufacturing facilities in WestYorkshire exceeds 6 million metres, which are sold into over 50 countries. Interface Fabrics are part of the global American-owned Interface organisation, which is at the forefront ofindustrial ecology in the quest to become fully sustainable by2020. Interface Fabrics designs and manufactures flat wovenfabrics in a myriad of designs, compositions and colours. The core market is the office furniture industry, where contractgrade fabrics are used on task chairs, executive and soft seating,screens and panels. Recent industry firsts include theintroduction of a stretchable polyester crepe weave with Euroflammability performance, the development of a 24-hour fabricguaranteed for 10 years, and the re-engineering of Europe’s top-selling panel fabric to a 100% recycled raw material supply andnow marketed under the Terratex eco-conscious brand. Additionalservices include fabric lamination and post-treatments, cut tosquare, and Teknit knitted fabrics and suspension nets. A newmarket sector is fabrics for mass transit passenger transport andcommercial vehicles. Interface Fabrics – through its new Furtexbrand – provides a one-stop shop solution including moquettes andflat woven options for coach, bus and rail applications, and trimfabrics for wall sides and curtaining. The company is registered toISO 9001, ISO 14001 and Investors in People.

Platform technologies: Textile testing and certification; Product development;Manufacturing; Marketing and distribution

Areas for collaboration: Smart interactive materials; Conductive textiles; Shape memorybased textiles; High-tech coatings; Nano-textiles

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Organisation name: FreshMax LtdContact: Mr Oliver Van Emden

Position: Managing Director

Tel: 07956 299 020


Website: www.fresh-max.com

Company description: Small sized technical textiles company, based in Manchester.FreshMax is a smart textile R&D company founded at theUniversity of Manchester Institute of Science and Technology(UMIST). The company has developed fabric making clothing morecomfortable for the wearer that will be realised commercially thisyear.

Platform technologies: New product development

Areas for collaboration: Smart interactive clothing; Conductive textiles; Shape memorybased textiles; High-tech coatings; Nano-textiles

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Appendix D MISSION COORDINATOR

Research Institute for Flexible Materials(RIFleX), School of Textiles and Design, Heriot-Watt University

The School of Textiles and Design of Heriot-Watt University is the coordinating body ofthe mission. The School is recognised by thegovernment and the industry as a leadingcentre in textile design and technology. Inaddition to the TechniTex Faraday Partnershipcore research group, it houses the BiomedicalTextiles Research Centre (BTRC) and theResearch Institute for Flexible Materials(RIFleX). The BTRC research interests lie inthe following areas: biomedical structuresfabricated from textiles and their functions;conducting and medical polymers; polymermoulding and extrusion; and the medicalapplications of gas discharge plasmatreatment. RIFleX is involved in a number ofprojects, which include shape memorymaterials and wireless interactive systems ontextile substrates, in conductive yarns andfabrics, and in high-tech coatings.

The School’s combined research efforts arealso linked with other departments of theuniversity, including, for example, Chemistryand Mechanical & Chemical Engineering(materials, dyes and dyeing, manufacturing,computing and production engineering).With extensive industrial and academiclinks, the School has a wide range ofexperience in R&D of innovative textiles,including interactive, smart, intelligent andhigh-performance ones. A recentinternational conference organised by theSchool has further reinforced internationalrapports, including with countries targetedby the mission.

Besides its lead in technical textiles and in theTechniTex partnership, the School of Textilesand Design is also involved in a number ofkey activities related to regional developmentand innovation strategy. It is a member of theBoard of the Scottish Textile Strategy Forum,which is trying to deliver Scotland’s textilestrategy. It is also involved in theManagement Board of the Scottish TextileManufacturers’ Association, which looks afterthe interests of textile manufacturers inScotland.

The mission leader, Prof George K Stylios,has successfully completed two DTImission visits to Japan and Italy in 1996 forthe wool and worsted industry, which haveled to successful industry-led projects:InSyst Ltd and COMIT. The findings can befound in the form of a report, ‘Japanese andItalian Textile Industry: TechnologicalInnovations and Management Practices’.This report is available on request.

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Appendix E MISSION DISCUSSION, TOPICS AND

QUESTIONS

Focus: New technical textile materials with potential applications in a wide rangeof fields; for example, aerospace developments, automotive industry, medical area, civil engineering, telecommunications, etc.

Aims: To benchmark new Japanese and Korean materials and their technologies and end-uses against those developed in the UK, and to push forward with a clear research and development strategy in the technical textiles area through the TechniTex Faraday Partnership.

Focus of questions to be put during

meetings and visits:

1 Conductive fibres and yarns– What type are they?– Can they easily manufacture into fabrics?– Can you vary their conductance?– Can you make natural fibres to

conduct electricity?– Is there any work on coating of yarns?– Any commercial product?

2 Conductive fabrics– What type of structure: knit, weave,

non-woven?– What is the fibre/yarn content?– How is it processed?– Levels of conductance?– Can you make the fabric conductive by

impregnating, coating or printing process?– How about protection of the body?– Can you buy the fabric?– Their uses?

3 Smart fabrics and products– How are they constructed?– Is there any example of a

smart garment?– Are the sensors in the garment bought

or purpose made?– How are they attached to

the garment?– How is the network structure in the

fabric constructed, ie the selection of connecting parts of electronics between them?

– How small can the sensors be?– Are there sensors that are part of

the textile?– Other areas of smart, ie medical,

automotive, buildings, etc.

4 Nano-textiles and coatings– Which is the most important nano-area

of development?– Can you produce nano-fibre or

nano-yarn?– What is the specification and how can

it be used for nano-textiles?– Which method do you use to produce

nano-fibre or yarn?– What are the end users for

such products?– What method of nano-coating do

you use?– Can you use any coating machine to

apply it? Special considerations?– Are you involved with nano-powders,

and which ones?– Any example of nano-coated product?

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5 Shape memory/intelligent materials– What are the types of SMA or SMP

that you do?– Can you change their shape with other

means than temperature?– Have you used SM with other

materials; hybrid materials?– Main product and end uses?– Other intelligent materials, ie to activate

by electromagnetism or infrared?

6 Smart electronics– Is the future Bluetooth or UG?– How wireless can wireless

communication be?– Sensors and communication modules?– Electronic tagging and its uses to

textiles?– End products?– Is the future all in one garment?

7 Latest development and available technologies

– Conductive fibres, yarns and fabrics?– Smart/interactive clothing – how can

the latest developments in companiessuch as Samsung and Daesung beincorporated into textiles?

– Shape memory alloys and polymers?– Nano-textiles and nano-coatings?– Electronic textile networks?

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Appendix FCONTACT LIST

JAPAN

Mr Yoshikazu YamazakiJapan Chemical Fibres Association (JCFA) 7th Fl, Osaka-Kagakusen-i Kaikan4-6-8, Kawara-machiChuo-kuOsaka 541-0048JapanT +81 6 6231 6781F +81 6 6223 1790www.jcfa.gr.jp/english/index_e.html

Mr TakesakoAdministration OfficeNihon Sammon Dyeing Co Ltd35 Butai-choFushimi-kuKyoto 612-8338 JapanT +81 75 601 8281F +81 75 621 2922www.sanmo.co.jp/e-home.html

Mr Satoshi NagouToyobo Research Centre1-1, Katata 2-chome Otsu Shiga 520-0292 JapanT +81 77 571 0020www.toyobo.co.jp/e

Mr S OogiOsaka Administration GroupTeijin Osaka Headquarters6-7, Minami-hommachi 1-chomeChuo-kuOsaka 541-8587JapanT +81 6 6268 3001www.teijin.co.jp

Prof Y ShimizuDepartment of Kansei EngineeringShinshu UniversityTokida Campus3-15-1, Tokida Ueda City Nagano PrefectureJapanT +81 2 6821 5537www.tex.shinshu-u.ac.jp/faculties/kansei/kansei_e.html

Dr Shunichi HayashiDiAPLEXEbisuJapanT +81 3 5725 8251www.diaplex.co.jp

Dr Keiji KusumotoNational Institute of Advanced IndustrialScience and Technology (AIST)International Affairs Department International Relationship Office2266-98 Anaga-horaShimo-shidamiMoriyama-kuNagoya 463-8560JapanT +81 29 861 5033 (39054)www.aist.go.jp

KOREA

Mr Cho Sang-hoPresident Korea Textile Development Institute (KTDI) 1083, Chungri-dong Seo-ku DaeguSouth Korea T +82 53 560 6602 F +82 53 560 6585www.textile.or.kr

Dr Hwan ChoHead of DYETECKorea Dyeing Technology Centre (DYETEC)404-7, Pyongri-6-dong Seo-gu DaeguSouth KoreaT +82 53 350 3700F +82 53 350 3888www.dyetec.or.kr

Mr Bong-Deok JeongDeputy Senior ManagerKolon Central Research Park 212 Gongdan-dongGumi-CityGyung Buk 730-030South KoreaT +82 54 469 3801F +82 54 469 6113www.kolon.com

Mr Jung-Hoi KimExecutive DirectorKorea Federation of Textile Industries(KOFOTI) 5th Floor, Textile Centre944-31 DaeChi 3-DongKangnam-kuSeoul 135-713South Korea T +82 2 528 4012F +82 2 528 4069www.kofoti.or.kr

Mr Young Soon KimExecutive DirectorDesign Council Ltd2 Fl, Textile Centre Building 944-31 DaeChi-DongKangnam-GuSeoul 135-280South KoreaT +82 2 568 1125F +82 2 528 5893

Mr Cheol Whan MoonDeputy DirectorTextile and Clothing Industries DivisionMinistry of Commerce, Industry and Energy1, Joongang-dongGwacheon-siGyunggi-do 427-723South KoreaT +82 2 2110 5653F +82 2 504 2014www.texfrontier.net

Dr Joohyeon LeeAssociate ProfessorDepartment of Clothing & TextilesYonsei University134 Sinchon-dongSeodaemun-guSeoul 120-749South Korea T +82 2 2123 3108F +82 2 312 5229www.yonsei.ac.kr

Prof Doo Hyun BaikDepartment of Textile EngineeringChungnam National UniversityDaejon 305-764South KoreaT +82 42 821 6618F +82 42 823 4345www.cnu.ac.kr

44


Dr Sung Chul KimGeneral ManagerSamsung Advanced Institute of Technology U-Health Project TeamSan 14-1 Nongseori Kiheung-eup Yongin-shi Kyonggi-doSouth KoreaT +82 31 280 6717www.sait.samsung.co.kr

Y K SonGeneral ManagerHyosung R&D Centre 183, Hyogae-dong Dongahn-ku Ahnyang-shi Kyunggi-doSouth KoreaT +82 31 428 1450F +82 31 454 0089www.hyosung.com

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46


Appendix GLIST OF TABLES AND FIGURES

Table Page Caption

3.1 6 R&D budgets in Asia3.2 9 Exports, imports, production and domestic demand in Korea3.3 10 Comparisons between Japan, Korea and U5.1 18 Key areas of Japanese textile researc5.2 22 R&D at Toyobo’s C-Space

Figure Page Caption

S.1 3 Mission delegates at Shinshu University3.1 7 Indices of textiles industrial production in Japan4.1 13 AIST organisational chart4.2 14 AIST activities4.3 15 Key technology areas at Kolon4.4 16 Films produced at Kolon 5.1 19 Thin film silicon solar cell5.2 19 Technical yarns for airbags5.3 19 Cross section of Coolon® fibres5.4 19 Bicomponent yarn5.5 20 Tyre cords 5.6 21 Antimicrobial action (count of live microbes) of Dew®5.7 21 Mechanism of the Dew® White action5.8 21 Microclimate within clothing5.9 23 Sweat thermal mannequin TOM® II5.10 23 Ultra filtration membranes5.11 23 Bone formation in porous ceramic5.12 24 Therapeutic seal-like robot PARO5.13 25 Wearable components of WEAVY5.14 26 DiAPLEX at increasing temperature5.15 26 Close structure DiAPLEX at low temperatures5.16 26 DiAPLEX properties5.17 27 Uses of artificial leather Chamude®5.18 27 Morphotex® fibres5.19 28 Nanotechnology at AISTB.1 32 Korean textiles and apparel exports and imports by itemB.2 33 Korean textiles and apparel exports and imports by country

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Appendix HGLOSSARY

3D three dimensionalAIST National Institute of Advanced Industrial Science and Technology (Japan)ASTM American Society for Testing and Materials (USA)ºC degrees CelsiusCAD computer-aided designCEO Chief Executive OfficerCO2 carbon dioxideCVC Chief Vision Creator DMF dimethylformamideDNA deoxyribonucleic acidDTI Department of Trade and Industry (UK)DYETEC Korean Dyeing Technology CentreGDP gross domestic productIJCST International Journal of Clothing Science and TechnologyISO International Organisation for StandardisationIT information technologyJCFA Japan Chemical Fibres Associationkm kilometreKOFOTI Korea Federation of Textile IndustriesKTDI Korean Textile Development InstituteMETI Ministry of Economy, Trade and Industry (Japan)MITI Ministry of International Trade and Industry (Japan) (now replaced by METI)MRSA methicillin resistant Staphylococcus aureusnm nanometrePBO poly-(p-phenylenebenzobisoxazole)PC personal computerPDA personal digital assistantPPS polyphenylene sulphideR&D research and developmentRIFleX Research Institute for Flexible Materials (Heriot-Watt University, UK)SMA shape memory alloySMP shape memory polymerTg glass transition temperatureUK United KingdomUMIST University of Manchester Institute of Science and Technology (UK)US(A) United States (of America)

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Global Watch Information

Global Watch Online – a unique internet-enabled service delivering immediate andinnovative support to UK companies in theform of fast-breaking worldwide business andtechnology information. The website providesunique coverage of DTI, European andinternational research plus businessinitiatives, collaborative programmes andfunding sources.Visit: www.globalwatchonline.com

Global Watch magazine – the website's sisterpublication, featuring innovation in action.Distributed free to over 18,000 UKorganisations, this monthly magazine featuresthe latest technology developments andpractices gleaned from Global Watch Serviceactivities around the world now being put intopractice for profit by British businesses.Contact: [email protected]

UKWatch magazine – a quarterly magazine,published jointly by science and technologygroups of the UK Government. HighlightingUK innovation and promoting inwardinvestment opportunities into the UK, thepublication is available free of charge to UKand overseas subscribers.Contact: [email protected]

Global Watch Missions – enabling teams ofUK experts to investigate innovation and itsimplementation at first hand. The technologyfocused missions allow UK sectors andindividual organisations to gain internationalinsights to guide their own strategies forsuccess.Contact: [email protected]

Global Watch Secondments – helping smalland medium sized companies to sendemployees abroad or receive key people fromanother country. Secondments are aneffective way of acquiring the knowledge,skills, technology and connections essentialto developing a business strategically.Contact:[email protected]

Global Watch Technology Partnering –providing free, flexible and direct assistancefrom international technology specialists toraise awareness of, and provide access to,technology and collaborative opportunitiesoverseas. Delivered to UK companies by anetwork of 16 International TechnologyPromoters, with some 6,000 currentcontacts, providing support ranging frominformation and referrals to more in-depthassistance with licensing arrangements andtechnology transfer.Contact: [email protected]

For further information on the Global WatchService please visitwww.globalwatchonline.com

The DTI’s Global Watch Service provides support dedicatedto helping UK businesses improve their competitivenessby identifying and accessing innovative technologies andpractices from overseas.

Printed in the UK on recycled paper with 75% de-inked post-consumer waste content

First published in October 2004 by Pera Innovation Limited on behalf of theDepartment of Trade and Industry

© Crown copyright 2004

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Interactive smart textiles: innovation and collaboration ... · Interactive smart textiles: innovation and collaboration in Japan and South Korea REPORT OF A DTI GLOBAL WATCH MISSION