INSTALLATION MANUAL

FOR

ROCK KRAWLER SUSPENSION, INC.

TJ SEVERE DUTY LONG ARM SYSTEMS

SIXTH EDITION

04/24/04

Dear customer: Thank you for purchasing the best system on the market for your TJ. We are sure you will be happy with this system after your installation is complete. Please take your time during the installation and be sure to do it correctly. Completely read the directions before starting your installation so you know what to expect. Remember, your personal safety depends on it. Should you have any questions during this installation feel free to give our tech line a call (518-270-9822) and we will be happy to help you.

Warning Read and understand all instructions, warnings and safety precautions in these instructions and your owner’s manual before attempting to install these components. Caution Proper installation of Rock Krawler Suspension, Inc. Products requires knowledge of recommended procedures for disassembly/assembly of OE vehicles and components. Access to OE shop manuals and special tools are required. Attempting to install this kit without knowledge of these procedures may affect the safety of your vehicle and or the performance of these components. Rock Krawler Suspension, Inc. strongly recommends that this system be installed by a certified mechanic with off road experience.

Note: BE SURE TO CHECK ALL FASTENERS FOR PROPER TORQUE BEFORE TEST DRIVE. RECHECK AFTER 500 MILES AND BE SURE TO CHECK PERIODICALLY.

Warning Rock Krawler Suspension, Inc. does not recommend combined use of suspension lifts, body lifts or other lift devices. Combined use of lifts may result in unsafe and unexpected handling characteristics. Also, many states now have laws restricting vehicle lift, bumper heights and other alterations. Consult local laws to determine if your proposed alterations (including installation of this system) comply with your state laws. Caution Rock Krawler Suspension Inc. recommends the use of locktite on all hardware, unless noted otherwise. Warning Properly block and secure vehicle prior to installation. Warning Always wear safety glasses when using power tools Warning The use of limiting straps is recommended to avoid possible damage from over extending the suspension of your vehicle. Helpful hint:

Do not tighten connections until assemblies are installed in entirety.

Reference Lengths: Front Lower Control Arm Assembled Length = 32.37”

Rear Lower Control Arm Assembled Length = 26.25” (Standard Wheelbase) Triangulated 4 -Link Assembly = 22.19” (Standard Wheelbase) Rear Lower Control Arm Assembled Length = 30.75” (COMP 8S Stretch Wheelbase) Triangulated 4 -Link Assembly = 25.82” (COMP 8S Stretch Wheelbase) Front Upper Torque Arm Assembled Length = 33.74”

5.5” COMP 6 and COMP 8S Front Track Bar Assembled Length = 33.08” 7.0” 9.0” Front Track Bar Assembled Length = 33.375”

4.0” Front Track Bar Assembled Length = 32.34” Please Note: All Control Arms, Torque Arms, Track Bars and Triangulated 4 -Link Assemblies come pre-assembled, but they require final adjustment as specified above in the directions above. Driving Tips:

1) For Rock Crawling it is best to have the front sway bar disconnected. This will allow your suspension to do its intended function. Our suspension will give your vehicle unmatched articulation which will give you traction to keep your vehicle moving. Let the system do the work. This will save on vehicle abuse.

2) For Mud, especially sloppy mud, it is best to have the front sway bar connected. This

will limit the suspension travel which is better for mud.

3) For Highway driving it is best to have the front sway bar connected. This will give you the on highway ride and handling characteristics you expect. If you choose otherwise, you do so at your own risk.

Start with the middle of the Vehicle 1. Park vehicle on a level hard working surface and block the front wheels so the vehicle cannot move. 2. Support transfer case skid plate and install Lower Control Arm Mounting Brackets one side at a time between the skid plate and the frame. The new long arm brackets center themselves around the weld pins in the frame. Reinstall skid plate. The bracket shape follows the bends of the frame rails. We recommend a 1.25 to 1.5 inch stitch weld on the inside and outside of frame as shown (outside of frame is shown) this is very good for stress distribution. On the leading edge of each mount we require a full ¼ inch fillet weld as shown.

Front Outside Mount Rear Outside Mount Front Mount - Leading Edge We weld these in instead of bolting them, to allow for servicing of the drive train, should a problem arise on the trail, versus having to dismantle the suspension should you need to service your drive train. For Coil Over Kits and Coil Over Upgrades Only Do the Following: 3. Mount the front lower coil over mounting brackets as shown below.

Place the bracket with the shorter leg towards the front of the OEM shock bracket as shown and fully ¼” fillet weld the bracket in place on both sides. Next, take the bracket with the longer leg and space it 1.25” from the front bracket and fully ¼” fillet weld it in place making sure the holes line up and you can pass a ½” bolt through the holes.

4. Mount the upper coil over mounting brackets as shown below with the reinforcing brackets.

(a) (b) (c)

Front Upper Coil Over Mounts

a) Using the supplied 5/8” bolt and nut, attach the supplied coil over mounting bracket with the coil over mount outward to the stock upper shock location as shown in (a) and fully weld in place. Then remove the 5/8” bolt and nut and perform the same procedure on the other side.

b) Using a 1” hole saw, drill a 1” hole through the front of the OEM shock tower as shown in (b) to allow 1 ½” fastener to go through.

c) Putting in the shock tower reinforcements. Apply the angle bracket on the inside of the shock tower as shown and fully weld in place. Place the ½” bent solid rod on the back side of the OEM shock tower and fully seem weld it in place as shown. Be sure to also weld the rod to the frame for added strength and support.

5. Mount the rear lower coil over mounts and new lower control arm brackets as shown below.

a) Remove the outside of the OEM rear lower control arm mounts from the axle. b) Align the control arm hole in the newly supplied bracket with the OEM control arm hole on the remainng

wall of the OEM bracket and make sure the new bracket is flush against the remaining OEM bracket then tack the new bracket in place. Then remove the last part of the OEM rear lower control arm bracket and fully weld it in place.

c) Now would also be a good time to remove the OEM spring pads from the axle.

6. Mount the rear upper coil over mounting brackets as shown below.

Rear Upper Coil Over Mounts

a) Make sure to remove the OEM rear upper spring pads from the frame. This is a bit tricky so be careful. Take one of the supplied rear upper coil over mounting tabs and place the straight edge along the frame and slide it until the centerline of the mounting bolt hole is 3.5” back from the centering pin hole located on top of the frame in the center of the wheel well as shown above.

b) Fully fillet weld the bracket in place. c) Take another rear upper coil over mounting tab and space it 1.25” from the one just welded to the frame

and weld it in place making sure to be able to pass a ½” bolt through the mounts.

Now all of your New Brackets have been welded in. Good Job. Everything from here on out is a bolt in assembly except for the optional weld in rear cradle.

Let’s move to the Front End 1. Make sure the vehicle is still on a level hard working surface and block the rear wheels so the vehicle cannot move. Make sure the emergency brake is applied. Raise the front of vehicle and support with safety jack stands. Locate jack stands on the frame as far forward as possible. 2. Remove front rims and tires. 3. Support the front axle housing using a hydraulic floor jack. 4. Remove front shocks using 15mm box wrench for the top and 13mm socket with ratchet in combination with 13mm box wrench on the lower bolts. Keep original hardware to install new shocks. 5. Remove front sway bar links form upper location using 15mm box wrench. It may be helpful to use a hammer to push up against then end of the sway bar while pulling down on the old links to release. 6. Remove and replace front brake lines; following provided instructions in brake line kit. 7. Remove front track bar by using a T-55 torx bit on the lower axle mount then pull the cotter pin from the top castle nut and remove castle nut. It will be necessary to use a pickle fork (ball joint separator) to remove the top rod end from its mount. Discard the OEM track bar and castle nut for they will not be reused. 8. Remove front spring retainer clip(s). Keep original hardware and clips to reuse on final assembly. 9. Remove the OEM front upper control arms, and discard them. 10. Lower the front axle assembly and remove front springs. 11. Remove the OEM front lower control arms using 13/16 wrench and 13/16 socket with ratchet and save the hardware for reuse. Discard the OEM lower control arms. You must remove your OEM lower control arm mounts from the frame to allow for proper suspension travel. You can also remove the front upper control arm mount off the axle on the passenger’s side if you so desire. This will make your vehicle look cleaner. 12. Now it is time to make the stock front upper control arm mount on the driver’s side into a re-build-able, flexible joint. First, pound out the driver’s side OEM front upper control arm bushing and sleeve. Note: It is easier if you hit on the steel sleeve. Second, (this is optional, but is recommended, if you choose not to do this step please pack the joint with grease prior to final assembly) drill and tap a hole through the front of the housing as shown to allow for the supplied grease fitting to be installed. Make sure the hole is centered in the housing. Use a .162 to .166 inch diameter drill bit and a #10-32 tap. Clean out the housing of any drill chips or debris. Third, take one of the supplied ball joint bushings and push it in one side. Note: make sure the slots for the fasteners are on top and bottom for correct orientation. Fourth, place the supplied chrome plated ball inside the bushing. Fifth, place the other supplied Ball Joint bushings on the other side and push it in. Make sure the ball is oriented so that a bolt can pass through it before going to the next step. Sixth, place the supplied ball joint washers on either both sides of the ball joint bushings. Seventh, using the supplied #10-32 x 2.00” bolts and #10-32 nylok nuts clamp the entire assembly in place. Torque the #10-32 bolts to 25 to 30 inch pounds. Cut off any extra bolt length that extends past the nut.

Ball Joint Sequence Please Note: You will have a small gap around between the washers and the housings. That is to be expected. Make sure the gap is balances both left and right. Also note, that some of the bushings only have two slots in them and not 4. You will need to drill the bushings out with a 3/16 drill bit. The best way to do it is to bolt the washers in place with 2 of the #10-32’s, then drill through using the washers as a template. Then insert the remaining #10-32’s and torque them to the above spec. 13. Installing the Rock Krawler torque arm mounting brackets: First, scribe a vertical line along the front edge of the long arm bracket as shown below. Second, using the outer frame reinforcing bracket, center the bracket from top to bottom on the frame and line up the center of the front holes with the scribed line from step one. Third, center punch the four holes and drill (4) ½” holes through the frame. Please note, the brake lines and fuel lines run down the back edge of the frame. Make sure to push them away from the frame so you do not drill holes through them or damage them in any way. Fourth, mount the torque arm frame bracket on the inside of the frame and the reinforcing bracket on the outside of the frame as shown using the supplied ½” x 4” long bolts and nylok nuts. Make sure the brake lines and fuel lines run inside the bracket as shown.

Torque Arm Bracket Step 1 Torque Arm Bracket Step 2

Torque Arm Bracket Final Assembly 14. Install Rock Krawler lower control arms with one Krawler Joint at the axle mount and the other Krawler Joint to the new lower control arm mounting brackets. Attach the Krawler Joints using the original hardware and supplied ¾” long shouldered spacers with the shoulder against the brackets. Do not allow more than ½” of threads to show past the jam nut.

Shoulder Spacer Proper Installation 15. Install the torque arm as shown below. Use the supplied 14 mm x 100mm bolt, 14mm nylok nut, and (2) supplied ¾” long shoulder spacers to mount the Krawler Rod End into the bracket on the frame. Use the supplied 14mm x 100mm bolt, 14mm nylok nut, and (2) supplied .750” long shoulder spacers on the axle end. Make sure the torque arm is installed in the proper orientation. The angle in the clevis brackets will allow the arm to point straight back.

Torque Arm Assembly 14. For 5.5”/7.0”/ and 9.0” Systems only; install Rock Krawler track bar drop bracket as shown by drilling two ½” holes in the frame using the bracket as a template. It is easier if you mount the channel section of the track bar drop bracket that cups the frame and fasten bottom plate to the bottom of the OEM track bar mount before drilling holes. This will assure proper location of track bar drop bracket. Bolt into place using the two supplied ½-13 UNC x 4.00” bolts and ½ -13 UNC lock nuts through the frame and the ½-20 UNF (fine thread) x 1.75” bolt and ½ -13UNF lock nut through the OEM bracket.

5.5”/7.0”/9.0” Track Bar Bracket Assembly

15. Install the Rock Krawler front springs and reattach retaining clips. 15b. For the COMP 6 and the COMP 8; install the front coil over assembly which is the larger coil over assemblies into the new brackets using the supplied coil over spacers which are in the Fox Coil Over Owner’s Packages and the supplied ½” x 2.25” bolt and ½” locknut. For the COMP 6 you want to have the bolt to bolt mounting distance to be 20.65” to 21.15”. For the COMP 8S you want to have the bolt to bolt mounting distance to be 23.15” to 23.65”. Adjust the coil overs using spanner wrenches to meet those dimensions. It is highly recommended that you install limiting straps so you do not put the expensive coil over shocks you just received in tension to avoid possible damage. For the COMP 8S, if you feel the ride quality is a little stiff, you can let out some of the nitrogen pressure in the shock. We recommend decreasing the nitrogen pressure in increments of 50 psi. To do this safely and to minimize the loss of shock fluid, fully extend the coil over shock body.

16. For the 4.0” and 5.5” Systems only, install Rock Krawler front shocks using original hardware. For the 7.0” and 9.0” Systems install the bar pin eliminator clips using the supplied ½-13UNC x 2.75 long bolts and ½-13UNC lock nuts, attach the bar pin eliminator clips to the OEM mount using the OEM hardware. Please note; there are two different sizes of bar pin eliminator clips, the shorter clip are to be used for the front shocks.

Bar Pin Eliminator Clips

17. Install the Rock Krawler adjustable track bar using the OEM hardware on the axle connection and the supplied 14mm x 70mm bolt and 14mm lock nut either through the new track bar bracket for the 5.5”/7.0”/9.0” or through the OEM track bar bracket with the Krawler rod end orientated as shown below for the 4.0” System.

TJ 4.0” Orientation

For the 4.0” Systems only, use a 9/16” diameter drill to open up the OEM Track Bar hole in the frame. 17b. On the COMP 8S Only, Drill a 10mm hole over 5/8 of an inch towards the driver’s side from the OEM hole to relocate the track bar on the axle end. That will give greater clearance for the crazy articulation you are going to have. 18. On the top, connect the sway bar link assembly to the sway bar using the supplied 3/8-16UNCx 1.50 long bolt, 3/8-16UNC lock nut and 3/8”washer. On the bottom, tighten the supplied bolt to the OEM mounting bracket with the supplied special bolt with the jam nut and spiral lock washer as shown. Then connect the sway bar link assembly to the special bolt with a supplied ½ nylon washer on each side of the Rod End and then secure it with the hair pin as shown. Make sure you have 5/8” of thread engagement at a minimum for your rod ends.

19. Install front wheels and tires and lower front of the vehicle to the ground, check that the front axle is centered under the vehicle. If the axle is not centered, adjust Krawler Rod End on Track Bar to center the axle. If the axle is centered, tighten all hardware to proper torque spec. Do not allow more than ½” of threads to show past the jam nut. 20. On 5.5”/7.0”/ 9.0” COMP 6 and COMP 8S; Systems only, remove OEM Drop Pitman Arm and Install New

Drop Pitman Arm.

Please note: If you have one of the Wranglers where the ball joint will hit the passenger side sway bar link mount, you can either purchase The Rock Krawler Heavy Duty Steering Upgrade for $299 or you can do the following; Drill a half inch hole as shown below. Then install the sway bar link mounting bolts to the outside of the vehicle as shown and remove the remaining material with a metal cutting device. You may have to bend the sheet metal clevis brackets to make sure everything lines up well and the disconnects are easy to remove.

Now Lets Start the Rear Assembly 1. Park vehicle on a level, hard working surface. Raise rear of vehicle and support with safety jack stands. Locate jack stands on the frame as far back as possible. 2. Remove rear Rims and Tires. 3. Support rear axle using a hydraulic floor jack. 4. Remove rear shock bolts using 18mm box wrench and a 15mm socket with ratchet. Keep shock bolts for new shock installation. 5. Remove upper shock retaining bolts using 13mm socket with ratchet; keep stock bolts for new shock installation. 6. Remove rear sway bar link, upper bolts use 18mm socket. Lower nuts and bolts use 15mm socket with ratchet and 18mm wrench. Retain hardware for new rear sway bay link installation. 7. Remove OEM rear lower control arms using 13/16 socket with ratchet and a 13/16 box wrench and save the hardware for reuse. You must remove your OEM lower control arm mounts from the frame to allow for proper suspension travel. 8. Disconnect rear brake lines from rear upper control arms. 9. Remove upper control arms using 15mm socket with ratchet. Retain hardware for installation of Rock Krawler Triangulated 4 -Link Assembly. 10. Remove rear track bar using the T-55 torx bit for the lower mount and 18mm wrench and 18mm socket with ratchet. This can be discarded since it is not going to be reused. 11. Lower rear axle using a hydraulic jack until rear springs can be easily removed. 12. Remove rear springs. 13. Use a ½" socket with ratchet to remove bolts from rear axle cover to allow installation of Rock Krawler rear axle mounting plate. Differential oil will need to be drained and replaced after installation of rear axle mounting plate. Use a differential cover gasket and silicone on both sides of the new rear axle mounting plate. Install the Rock Krawler rear axle mounting plate with supplied new hex flange lock bolts 5/16-18x 1.00 long and red locktite as

shown with U-bolts cupping the axle and facing forward. This member acts like an axle truss strengthening the center section when completely installed. The U-bolts and U-bolt clamps are used to join the entire assembly together. The U-bolts and U-bolt clamps, also allow for servicing of the rear axle should a problem arise, without dismantling the rear suspension. Please note: the U-bolt goes over the brake lines. Please note; the rear axle mounting plate goes between the differential cover and the differential housing. Some applications will require welding of the tabs on the rear mounting plate where the U-bolts clamp.

Rear Mounting Plate/Reinforcing Channel Bracket Optional Weld In Rear Mounting Bracket: First, remove the OEM rear upper control arm mounts and the OEM rear track bar mount flush from the rear axle. Second, center the new weld in rear cradle on the axle from left to right, with back edge of cradle flush with machined surface of the rear axle (rear differential cover mounting surface), weld the rear cradle in place on all a joining surfaces. Please note the opening for the holes faces forward in the vehicle.

Optional Weld In Rear Cradle 14. Install Rock Krawler lower control arms with one Krawler Joint at the axle mount using the supplied .750” shoulder spacers and the other Krawler Joint at the new lower control arm mounting brackets using the supplied .595” shoulder spacers. Attach Krawler Joint ends using original hardware. Do not allow more than ½” of threads to show past the jam nut.

15. Now it is time to install the triangulated 4 - link arms. The assembled dimension is to be 22.19” from center of rod end to center of flex joint. Note: the flex joint is rotated 90 degrees from its correct position, for setting the proper length. Do not allow more than ½” of threads to show past the jam nut.

Triangulated 4 -Link Arm Install the flex joint at the frame connection where the OEM rear upper control arm was using the OEM hardware. Note there may be a gap on either side of the flex joint. Simply tighten the fastener to close down the gap and secure the rear triangulated 4 link arm in the mount. Then install the Krawler Rod end of the triangulated 4 link in the clevis bracket as shown below using the supplied 14mm x 100mm bolts and .595” shoulder spacers. Make sure the bolts are installed bottom up. Make sure the ½” x 1.5” fine thread bolts are already in the clevis bracket where it will attach to the rear mounting plate. Note for the weld in rear cradle option these links simply bolt to the cradle with the 100mm bolts and .595 shoulder spacers through the vertical holes. The clevis bracket has an offset build into it. The offset goes towards the top.

Triangulated 4 -Link Assembly

16. Install the rear upper clevis bracket as shown using the supplied ½-20 x 1.50” long bolt and ½-20 nylok nut. Be sure to have the reinforcing channel bracket installed on the back side as shown before.

17. Trimming of the rear spring perches for shock body clearance is required. Here is a picture of what it should look like.

Rear Spring Perch Trimming Operation

18. Install Rock Krawler rear springs, on the 7.0” and 9.0” systems only, install the supplied 1 ¾” poly spacer above the spring and remove the OEM spring pad. On the 4.0” Systems for Wranglers with Hardtops only, install the supplied ¾” poly spring spacer on top of the supplied rear coil spring.

19. Install Rock Krawler exclusive extended travel rear shocks in the (BODY UP on the 5.5”, 7.0” and 9.0” SYSTEMS ONLY) original mounts with original hardware, torque to 17 to 24 ft-lbs. For the 7.0” and 9.0” systems install the bar pin eliminator clips using the supplied ½-13 x 2.75 long bolts and ½-13 nylok nuts, attach the bar pin eliminator clips to the OEM mount using the OEM hardware. Please note; there are two different sizes of bar pin eliminator clips, the longer clips are to be used and then install the shocks. The longer clip is to be used in the rear. 19b. For the COMP 6 and the COMP 8; install the rear coil over assembly which is the smaller coil over assembly into the new brackets using the supplied coil over spacers which are in the Fox Coil Over Owner’s Packages and the supplied ½” x 2.25” bolt and ½” locknut on the top and on the bottom using the supplied ½”I.D., 11/16”O.D. x 1.10” long spacer and supplied ½” x 4.0” long bolt and ½” lock nut . For the COMP 6 you want to have the bolt to bolt mounting distance to be 18.85” to 19.35”. For the COMP 8S you want to have the bolt to bolt mounting distance to be 20.15” to 20.65”. Adjust the coil overs using spanner wrenches to meet those dimensions. It is highly recommended that you install limiting straps so you do not put the expensive coil over shocks you just received in tension to avoid possible damage. For the COMP 8S, if you feel the ride quality is a little stiff, you can let out some of the nitrogen pressure in the shock. We recommend decreasing the nitrogen pressure in increments of 50 psi. To do this safely and to minimize the loss of shock fluid, fully extend the coil over shock body.

TJ Rear Lower Coil Over Installed w/ Spacers

* Make Sure the OEM spring mounts are removed from the axle. 20. Install the Rock Krawler rear sway bar links, these rear sway bar links should be mounted with the rod offset towards the frame. Use the original bolts, nuts, and the supplied ½” fender washers to install as shown and torque to 25 ft-lbs.

Rear Sway Bar Link Bottom Rear Sway Bar Link Top 21. Install rear brake line and follow instructions contained in brake line package. 22. Install rear rims and tires, raise vehicle off jack stands and lower vehicle to the ground. Check that rear axle is centered under vehicle. If axle is not centered, adjust the Triangulated 4 -Link Assembly, Rod Ends and Flex Joints. Note: Do not allow more than ½” of threads to show past the jam nut. If axle is centered, tighten hardware to torque specs supplied. Vehicle should be taken to a certified alignment shop for castor and alignment settings

*Please note; A little more Toe In is beneficial to make larger tires with rough tread track properly. The required Torque for all 14mm, 9/16 or ½ bolts not explicitly defined is 70 to 80 ft-lbs. Good Job. Your installation is complete. Now go out and enjoy your vehicle. If you purchased our 9.0” Severe Duty System, install the body lift following the supplied instructions in the kit. Optional Equipment Transfer Case Drop Kit, for the 4.0” System; Install the supplied tubular spacers between the skid plate and the frame, then tighten with the supplied hardware ½-13 x 2.75 long bolts and 1/2”x1.75 diameter flat washers. Install the transfer case drop kit, one side at a time for easier assembly.

T-Case Drop Shown on TJ Control Arm Skids/Reinforcing Brackets Installation:

1) Remove your control arm bolt on the axle end.

2) Slide the control arm skid around the OEM lower control arm mount on the axle and put it in place so the cutout slides up flush to the axle tube.

3) Slide the Original Bolt Through and tighten in place.

4) Weld the new skid plate bracket as shown to the axle tube.

Heavy Duty Steering Upgrade: Installation Procedure

1) Please note, for YJ (87 through 95 Jeep Wrangler) owners, you will need to purchase a Wrangler TJ (97 through present Jeep Wrangler) ball joint for the stock Pitman Arm location before beginning. For all vehicle owners that wish to maintain a steering stabilizer, you must purchase a strap kit to use your OEM or aftermarket steering stabilizer.

2) Make sure the vehicle is on a level working surface, set the parking brake, and block the front and rear

wheels.

3) Remove your stock steering components from your vehicle.

4) For TJ/XJ/ZJ owners; remove your pitman arm ball joint from the OEM drag link and save it for reuse.

5) For YJ owners, this is a knuckle over steering setup; you must have a relocated front track bar on the axle connection and grind off the boss on the casting as shown below. Knuckle Over is recommended with all Rock Krawler YJ Coil Over Conversion Suspension Systems. For all other vehicles (TJ/XJ/ZJ) Knuckle Under is suggested.

YJ Track Bar Trimmed

6) Drill out your front knuckles to pass a 9/16 diameter bolt.

7) Now you are ready to start assembly of your new steering. A good starting dimension for your new tie rod is 51.75” from joint to joint. Please note; this is how you set your toe on your axle for alignment purposes. Make sure to never have more that ½” of thread showing past a jam nut on any rod end in the tie rod or drag link.

8) Place one of the supplied spacers below the rod end and then fasten the rod end to the steering knuckle with

the supplied 14mm x 70mm bolt and 14mm nylok nut as shown below. Make sure the ball of the rod end clamps to the knuckle. The sized washers are there to minimize rolling of the tie rod. On TJ, XJ, ZJ bent part of the Tie Rod to go on the Passengers side, with bend facing forward.

Steering Knuckle Connection (Knuckle Over setup shown (YJ Ownly))

(Drivers side shown)

9) Assemble your drag link with the OEM pitman arm ball joint in one end and the rod end in the other. The easiest way to get a good starting length for this is to make sure your tires are pointing straight forward and your steering wheel is centered.

10) Connect your drag link to the tie rod with the supplied 14mm x 100mm bolt and 14mm nylok nut as

shown below. Again, make sure to never have more than ½” of thread showing past the jam nut on the rod end.

Drag Link to Tie Rod Connection

11) Fasten the OEM ball joint to the pitman arm with the OEM castle nut and cotter pin, and then tighten the locking collar on the drag link over the threads of the ball joint to make sure you have a good connection. Make sure you have a minimum of 21mm of thread engagement to have a solid connection. See picture below.

Locking Collar Connection 12) Make sure all connections are tight and the 14mm bolts are torqued to 70 to 80 ft-lbs. Make sure the

fasteners in the locking collar are torqued to 25 - 30 in-lbs. Test your steering lock to lock to make sure there are no interferences with any other components.

13) For knuckle under; perform the same procedure but place the tie rod under the steering knuckle TJ, XJ,

ZJ. 14) It is highly recommended that you take your vehicle to a professional alignment facility to ensure your

vehicle is in proper alignment.

15) If you have the strap kit for the steering stabilizer, feel free to connect it to the tie rod. Make sure you do

not bottom out the steering stabilizer. If you would like to add or keep a steering stabilizer on TJ/XJ/ZJ’s purchase the WJ mounting bracket that mounts the WJ OEM steering stabilizer to the drag link. That will work great with our components.

Completed TJ Steering Assembly Rear Upper Reinforcing Brackets: Installation:

1) With our rear triangulated 4 Link Conversion please do the following;

a) Place the supplied reinforcing bracket between the triangulated 4 link flex joint and the OEM bracket as show below. Put the OEM hardware back in and tighten in place making sure the bottom of the reinforcing bracket comes flush with the bottom of the frame and then weld in place as shown using a ¼” fillet weld.