German Ministry of Education and Research

Research Proposals on

Water as a Global Resource (GROW)

InoCottonGROW

Innovative Impulses Reducing the Water Footprint of the

Global Cotton-Textile Industry towards the UN-Sustainable Development Goals

Project volume: ca. 3.5 Million €

Funding period: January 2017 to December 2019 (36 months)

Partners: 15 R&D and industry partners in Germany, seeking Pakistani cooperation partners

Coordinator: Dr. sc. Frank-Andreas Weber

Research Institute for Water and Waste Management at RWTH Aachen,

Kackertstr. 15-17, 52072 Aachen, Germany, phone: +49 241 80-23952

weber@fiw.rwth-aachen.de

Cotton textile products are largely responsible for German imports of virtual water from semi-arid coun-

tries (WWF 2009). The water footprint has widely been accepted as an indicator to assess the water effi-

ciency of the cotton-textile production process (Figure 1), despite several methodological shortcomings and

its applicability as indicator towards reaching the UN-Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) being unclear.

Methodologically, green (rain), blue (surface and groundwater), and grey (wastewater-based) footprints are

calculated (Figure 1). According to the new international standard ISO 14046:2014, this volumetric analysis

(14.367 L/kg cotton textile) should be supplemented by an extended impact assessment with respect to

water scarcity, quality and impairment of concurrent usages (drinking water, food production, etc.). Hence,

textile exporting countries supported by the EU under the GSP+ status (Generalized System of Preference)

are currently striving for strategies to increase the sustainability of the cotton-textile industry.

In case studies and demonstration projects in Pakistan, a main supplier of the German demand for textiles,

the aim of this joint R&D project is to contribute to sustainable water resources management

1. by advancing the water footprint concept to become a meaningful regional steering instrument for

national decision makers, manufacturers, retailers, and consumers alike (work package WP1),

2. by surveying the current state of water efficiency, water quality, and concurrent usages in Pakistan

using a combination of satellite remote sensing, field-site studies, hydrologic and hydraulic model-

ling, company surveys, and river quality monitoring (WP2&3),

3. by demonstrating efficient technologies along the cotton-textile value chain, including efficient cot-

ton irrigation, textile machinery, dyes and process chemicals, suitable wastewater treatment pro-

cesses, and analytical instruments for water pollution monitoring (WP4&5),

4. by assessing strategies towards reaching the UN-Sustainable Development Goals (WP6),

5. by supporting decision makers with roadmaps, documentary videos, internet-based footprint tools,

providing the base for a Water-Footprint Textile Label rising consumers´ awareness for sustainable

consumption (WP7).

InoCottonGROW 2

Intended Case Studies and Demonstration Projects in Pakistan

In cooperation with Pakistani partners and German companies, InoCottonGROW intends to contribute to a

survey of the current state of water efficiency, water quality, and concurrent usages in Pakistan (M1-M5)

and plans five demonstration projects (D1-D5) to demonstrate technical approaches and opportunities to

reduce the water footprint of the cotton-textile industry. The full project structure is shown in Figure 2.

• M1: Satellite remote sensing (UW): Mapping cotton production and yields, water demand, evapotran-

spiration and irrigation efficiency from satellite data (Conrad et al. 2013).

• M2&M3: Monitoring and optimizing irrigation in the Warabandi system and modelling irrigation-

groundwater-interaction (ZEF, RWTH). Seeking cooperation with University of Agriculture, Faisalabad,

and Punjab Irrigation & Power

• M4: Surveying water efficiency of textile production and finishing processes currently in use (HN-FTB,

GOTS): Seeking Pakistani cooperation partners. Project plans currently developed.

• M5: Surveying wastewater volumes, composition, and treatment plants currently in use (FiW): Seek-

ing cooperation with wastewater consultants in Pakistan

• D1: Demonstrating options for optimizing irrigation (ZEF): laser-guided land leveling, field irrigation

scheduling using soil water flux models reducing water losses (Tischbein et al. 2013). Seeking coopera-

tion with University of Agriculture, Faisalabad, and Punjab Irrigation & Power

• D2 Demonstrating advanced dyes and process chemicals (CHT, HN-FTB): Supporting strategies for Zero

Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) by assessing possible substitutes, demonstration of reactive

dyes with three functional group showing higher fixation degree and lower water requirements.

Seeking Pakistani cooperation partners.

• D3 Demonstrating water efficient textile machinery (THIES, HN-FTB): Wet finishing optimization using

advanced process control. Seeking Pakistani cooperation partners. Project plans currently developed.

• D4 Demonstrating suitable waste water treatment options (A3, FiW): Case-specific treatment process

are developed, designed, and tested in cooperation with Pakistani companies. Energy-efficient anaero-

bic reactors are tested treating waste water of dying processes for recycling. Seeking Pakistani coopera-

tion partners. Project plans currently developed.

• D5 Demonstrating analytical instruments for water pollution monitoring (LAR, SEBA, FiW): LAR pro-

vides analytical instruments capable of monitoring COD, nitrate- und ammonium-nitrogen, and toxicity

to allow for monitoring of the water quality of wastewater effluent, channels and rivers. SEBA provides

mobile sensors capable of discharge measurements in irrigation channels and water quality in ground-

water wells monitoring salinity and nitrate pollution. Seeking Pakistani cooperation partners.

Figure 1: Green, blue and grey water footprint of different cotton exporting countries (L per kg cotton).

(Source: Vereinigung Deutscher Gewässerschutz e.V. based on Chapagain et al. 2006)

InoCottonGROW 3

Figure 2: Project structure and work packages planned in InoCottonGROW

Selected Literature

Berger M. et al. (2014): Water accounting and vulnerability evaluation (WAVE) – considering atmospheric evaporation

recycling and the risk of freshwater depletion in water footprinting. Environ. Sci. Technol. 48(8), 4521-4528.

Berger M., Finkbeiner M. (2012): Methodological challenges in volumetric and impact- oriented water footprints. J.

Ind. Ecol. 17(1), 79-89.

Chapagain A.K. et al. (2006): The water footprint of cotton consumption: An assessment of the impact of worldwide

consumption of cotton products on the water resources in the cotton producing countries. Ecol. Econ. 60, 186.

Conrad C. et al. (2013): Remote sensing and hydrological measurement based irrigation performance assessments in

the upper Amu Darya Delta, Central Asia. Phys. Chem. Earth 61-62, 52-62.

FiW (2016): Wastewater Treatment for the Textile Industries in Pakistan. Guideline/Handout commissioned by GIZ.

ISO 14046:2014: Environmental Management – Water footprint – Principles, requirements and guidelines.

Mekonnen M.M., Hoekstra A.Y. (2011): The green, blue and grey water footprint of crops and derived crop products.

Hydrol. Earth Syst. Sci., 15, 1577–1600.

Qureshi A.S., McCornick, P.G., Sarwar A., Sharma B.R. (2009): Challenges and Prospects of Sustainable Groundwater

Management in the Indus Basin, Pakistan. Water Resources Management 24(8), 1551-1569.

Schönberger H., Schäfer T. (2003): Beste verfügbare Techniken in Anlagen der Texilindustrie. UBA-Texte 13/03.

Tischbein B. et al. (2013): Adapting to water scarcity: constraints and opportunities for improving irrigation manage-

ment in Khorezm, Uzbekistan. Water Sci. Technol.: Water Supply 13, 337-348.

WWF (2014): Situation analysis of the water resources of Lahore. WWF Pakistan.

WWF (2014): Training Manual on BWMPs in Textile Sector in Pakistan. WWF Pakistan.

WWF (2014): The imported risk: Germany´s water risks in times of globalization. WWF Germany.

M1 Satellite Remote Sensing

(UW)

M4 Textile Production & Finishing Processes

(HN-FTB)

WP2 Current State and Inventory AnalysisM5 Textile

Wastewater Processes (FiW)

M2 Irrigation Efficiency

(ZEF)

M3 Hydraulic Modelling Irrigation-

Groundwater (RWTH)

WP4 Demonstration Projects

D1: Bewässerung(ZEF)

D4: Messtechnik(SEBA, LAR)

D5: Abwasserbehandlung

(A3)

D3: Textil-Verfahrenstechnik

(FTP)

D2: Einsatzabbaubarer

Chemikalien (CHT)

D1: Bewässerung(ZEF)

D4: Messtechnik(SEBA, LAR)

D5: Abwasserbehandlung

(A3)

D3: Textil-Verfahrenstechnik

(FTP)

D2: Einsatzabbaubarer

Chemikalien (CHT)

D1: Bewässerung(ZEF)

D4: Messtechnik(SEBA, LAR)

D5: Abwasserbehandlung

(A3)

D3: Textil-Verfahrenstechnik

(FTP)

D2: Einsatzabbaubarer

Chemikalien (CHT)

D1: Efficient Irrigation(ZEF, Cooperation AUF)

D4: Suitable Wastewater Treatment

(A3, FiW)

D5: Water Quality Monitoring

(SEBA, LAR, IWW, FiW)

D3: Efficient Textile Machinery

(THIES, HN-FTB)

D2: Advanced Dyes and Textile Chemical

(CHT, HN-FTB)

National AuthoritiesSteering Competence

ProducersCertification

IndustryNew markets

International Cooperation

Training

WP7 Putting Results into Practice and Outreach (FiW)

ConsumersSustainable

Consumption

WP6 Towards the UN-Sustainable Development Goals

Roadmap Water Footprint(TUB, FIW)

Scenario: Enhancing Food Production(IWW, ZEF)

Training Concepts(FiW, LV)

Indicators of UN-Sustainable Development Goals

(IWW)

D1: Bewässerung(ZEF)

WP5 Reducing the Water FootprintCotton Cultivation

green and blue footprint(ZEF, RWTH)

Transferability: Comparing Pakistan and Turkey (HRW)

Textile Wastewatergrey footprint

(FiW)

Textile Industryblue footprint

(HN-FTB, FiW)

WP3 Impact Assessment

Water and Soil Quality(FiW)

Water Scarcity(RWTH)

Practicability of Regional Water Footprint (TUB)

Regional Case Studies in Pakistan (FiW)

WP

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roje

ct M

anag

emen

t (F

iW)

WP1: Water Footprint Methodology (TUB)

Advancing Water Footprint as Steering Instrument

(TUB)

Regional Hydrological Modelling (IWW)

Regional Impact AssessmentWater Quality (FiW)

Regional Impact AssessmentWater Scarcity (TUB)

Concurrent Usages(IWW, LV)

Internet-BasedWater-Footprint-Tool

(TUB, FIW)

Documentary Videos(FIW)

Scenario: Reducing the Water Footprint

(IWW, HRW)

Institutional Framework(HRW)

InoCottonGROW 4

Project Partners in Germany

Research Institute for Water and Waste Management at RWTH Aachen (FiW) Project Coordinator: Dr. sc. Frank-Andreas Weber www.fiw.rwth-aachen.de

TU Berlin, Sustainable Engineering Department (TUB) Project leader: Dr.-Ing. Markus Berger http://www.see.tu-berlin.de/menue/fachgebiet_sustainable_engineering/parameter/en/

Hochschule Niederrhein, Research Institute for Textile and Clothing (HN-FTB) Project leader: Prof. Dr. Boris Mahltig https://www.hs-niederrhein.de/research/research-centres/ftb/

IWW Rheinisch-Westfälisches Institut für Wasserforschung gGmbH (IWW) Project leader: Dr. Tim aus der Beek www.iww-online.de

University of Würzburg, Department of Remote Sensing (UW) Project leader: Prof. Dr. Conrad Christopher http://www.geographie.uni-wuerzburg.de/en/fernerkundung_neu/startseite/

Center for Development Research, University of Bonn (ZEF) Project leader: Dr. Bernhard Tischbein www.zef.de

RWTH Aachen, Institut für Wasserbau und Wasserwirtschaft (RWTH) Project leader: Prof. Dr. Holger Schüttrumpf www.iww.rwth-aachen.de

Hochschule Ruhr West (HRW) Project leader: Prof. Dr. Mark Oelmann www.hochschule-ruhr-west.de/forschung/fachbereich-2/wirtschaftsinstitut

CHT R. Beitlich GmbH, Tübingen (CHT) Project leader: Dr. Lilia Lohrey www.cht.com

Thies GmbH & Co. KG, Coesfeld (THIES) www.thiestextilmaschinen.de

A3 Water Solutions GmbH, Saerbeck (A3) Project leader: Dipl.-Ing. Steffen Richter www.a3-gmbh.com

LAR Process Analysers AG, Berlin (LAR ) Project leader: Dr. Wolfgang Genthe www.lar.com

SEBA Hydrometrie GmbH & Co. KG, Kaufbeuren (SEBA) Project leader: Mr. Philipp Theuring www.seba-hydrometrie.com

Lippeverband, Dortmund (LV) Project leader: Björn M. Grün www.eglv.de

Global Standard gGmbH, Stuttgart (GOTS) Project leader: Claudia Kersten MBA Rahul Bhajekar, India www.global-standard.org

InoCottonGROW 5

Intended Collaboration Partners in Pakistan

The project is currently seeking to establish further collaboration with partners in Pakistan. We hope to get

positive reply of additional Pakistani partners within the next weeks.

Status

Pakistan Ministry of Textile Industry (MTI) Mr. Amir Mohammad Khan

Contacted

Pakistan Textile Exporters Association (PTEA) Mr. Azizullah Goheer http://www.ptea.org.pk/

Letter of Intent

All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA) Mr. Sameeh Ullah www.aptma.org.pk

Letter of Intent

Environment Protection Agency (EPA), Punjab http://epd.punjab.gov.pk

Contacted

Punjab Irrigation and Power, Irrigation Department http://pida.punjab.gov.pk/

Contacted

Cleaner Production Institute, Lahore Director Shafqar Ullah http://www.cpi.org.pk/

Contacted

University of Agriculture (UAF), Faisalabad Prof. Dr. Allah Bakhsh www.uaf.edu.pk Letter of

Intent

National Textile University (NTU), Faisalabad Ass. Prof. Muhammad Tahir Saddique Dr. Waseem Ibrahim www.ntu.edu.pk

Letter of Intent

Contacted

INTERLOOP Limited, Faisalabad Mr. Ijaz Hussain http://www.interloop-pk.com/

Letter of Intent

Collaboration to be extended

Advisory Board

Status

GIZ Textilbündnis, Mr. Helmut Krist

To be confirmed

GIZ Pakistan, Mr. Gundolf Klaehn

Letter of Intent

Advisory Board to be extended