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Innovative polymers for cosmetics. Beauty Made Possible.
Covestro Deutschland AGBusiness UnitCoatings, Adhesives, SpecialtiesD-51368 [email protected]
This information and our technical advice – whether verbal, in writing or by ways of trial – are given in good faith but without war-ranty, and this also applies where proprietary rights of third parties are involved. The information is provided by Covestro without assumption of any liability. If any of the above mentioned regulations change after the date of declaration, this declaration is no longer valid. Covestro will strive to keep this information up-to-date. Our advice does not release you from the obligation to verify the information provided – especially that contained in our safety data and technical information sheets –, to check for updates of any information provided by us and to test our products as to their suitability for the intended processes and uses. The application, use and processing of our products and the products manufactured by you on the basis of our technical advice are beyond our control and, therefore, entirely your own responsibility. Our products are sold in accordance with the current version of our General Conditions of Sale and Delivery. Edition: 2018-03 · Order-No.: COV00084332 · Printed in Germany 2018 Technical Brochure
Contents
Baycusan® product portfolio
Key features
04
06
SunCare 08
SkinCare 16
ColorCosmetics 24
HairCare 32
Around the world, notions of beauty are as colorful as the people who pursue them. There is certainly more than just one kind of beauty, and everybody has their own idea of what beauty involves. Although personal definitions may differ, one aspect remains the same: everyone wants to be beautiful in some way. And that’s what Baycusan® is all about – enabling individual beauty through your products.
Baycusan® is your key ingredient for creating products that enable people to be as beautiful as they would like to be. We are passionate about inventing products – for you and together with you – that expand the possibilities for being beautiful. We like to keep raising the bar, re-inventing and perfecting, so that in the end it’s not just products but Beauty Made Possible.
»There is a road from the eye to the heart that does not go through the intellect.«
Baycusan® product portfolio
The Baycusan® product portfolio features water-based polyurethane polymers and ethanol-based polyurethane polymers – all carefully developed for superior performance.
Baycusan® INCI Name Solids [%] Avg. particle size [μm] pHViscosity
[mPa·s]
Water-based polymers
C 1000* Polyurethane-34 40.0 ± 2.0 - 7.5 ± 1.0 ≤ 500
C 1001* Polyurethane-34 32.0 ± 2.0 - 7.5 ± 1.0 ≤ 1000
C 1003* Polyurethane-32 50.0 ± 2.0 - 7.5 ± 1.0 ≤ 1000
C 1004* Polyurethane-35 41.0 ± 2.0 - 7.5 ± 1.0 ≤ 500
C 1008* Polyurethane-48 30.0 ± 2.0 - 7.0 ± 1.5 < 1000
C 1010 Polyurethane-35 40.0 ± 2.0 - 7.0 ±1.0 ≤ 1000
Ethanol- based polymer
C 2000 Polyurethane-64 40.0 ± 5.0 - - < 10000
Baycusan® SkinCare SunCare HairCare ColorCosmetics
C 1000*
C 1001*
C 1003*
C 1004*
C 1008*
C 1010
C 2000
especially suitable
suitable* Also commercially available with 1.5% antimicrobial additive under the name Baycusan® C/1.
Applications
4
Key features
SunCare
– (Salt) water resistance– Sweat resistance– Sand resistance– Helps to reduce eye irritation– Wet skin application– SPF boosting– Comfortable wear
ColorCosmetics
– Water resistance– Sweat resistance– Rub-off resistance– Non-transfer– Comfortable wear – Even color coverage
HairCare
Styling– Strong hold– Wash resistance– Waterproofing– Style retention– No tackiness – Natural feel
Care– Heat protection– Frizz control for up to 24 hours– Anti-breakage– Effectively reduces length of split ends– Conditioning and detangling effect
SkinCare
– Protects the skin against air pollutants– Easy & gentle peel-off with no skin irritation– Facilitates longer-lasting retention of actives on the surface of the skin– Enhances efficacy of active ingredients– Rub-off resistance – Comfortable wear
6
SunCare SkinCare ColorCosmetics HairCare
The sun makes the world blossom and look great. Let’s keep it that way.
SunCare with Baycusan®.
2x20 min. immersion 4x20 min. immersion
Emulsion 1 with 7.5% Baycusan® C 1000
Ethanol spray with 5% Baycusan® C 2000
Oil spray with 5% Baycusan® C 2000
Emulsion 2 with 7% Baycusan® C 1004
As confirmed by in vivo tests conducted in accordance with guidelines established by the European Cosmetics Association (see fig.1), water resistance can be achieved in different formulation types with Baycusan® C 1000 and Baycusan® C 2000, whereas Baycusan® C 1004 imparts an even longer water resistance to emulsion-based formulations. By using the stabilization properties of water-based Baycusan® polymers (Baycusan® C 1000 and Baycusan® C 1004) in an emulsion-based product, the emulsifier or polymeric stabilizer concentration can be reduced to avoid product re-emulsification on contact with water.
Emulsion 1: Emulsion stabilized with 0.15% acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylates crosspolymer (Pemulen® TR-2, Lubrizol) and containing 4% OMC + 4.5% BMDBM + 4% BEMT (RR 8023)Emulsion 2: Emulsion stabilized with 1% polyglyceryl-6 stearate (and) polyglyceryl-6 behenate + 0.10% acrylates/C10-30
alkyl acrylates crosspolymer (Pemulen® TR-2, Lubrizol) containing 5% BMDBM + 5% OS + 10% OMC + 5% EHT + 10% OCR (RR 8136)
Ethanol spray: Ethanol solution containing 4.9% BMDBM + 2% BEMT + 10% OCR + 3% DHBT + 5% OS + 10% HMS Oil spray: Oil formulation containing 5% BMDBM + 3.5% BEMT + 10% OCR +5% DHBT + 5% OS + 10% HMS (RR 8096)
Water resistance
Key features– (Salt) water resistance– Sweat resistance– Sand resistance– Helps to reduce eye irritation
– Wet skin application*– SPF boosting– Comfortable wear
SunCare
suitable
Physical properties
Recommended raw materials
Trade name Baycusan® C 1000* Baycusan® C 1004* Baycusan® C 2000
Appearance White, low viscosity liquid White, low viscosity liquid Transparent, low viscosity liquid
Solid content 40.0 ± 2.0 41.0 ± 2.0 40.0 ± 5.0
Viscosity at 23°C ≤ 500 ≤ 1000 < 10000
pH 7.5 ± 1.0 7.5 ± 1.0 -
11
SunCare SkinCare ColorCosmetics HairCare
10
* Applicable to Baycusan® C 2000
* Also commercially available with 1.5% antimicrobial additive under the names Baycusan® C 1000/1 and Baycusan® C 1004/1.
Trade Name Baycusan® C 1000* Baycusan® C 1004* Baycusan® C 2000
INCI Name Polyurethane-34 Polyurethane-35 Polyurethane-64
Chemical descriptionWater-based
polyurethane polymer (40% polymer, 60% water)
Water-based polyurethane polymer
(41% polymer, 59% water)
Ethanol-based polyurethane polymer
(40% polymer, 60% ethanol)
Ingredient category Film forming Film forming Film forming
Application area
Emulsion- based (lotion, cream)
(Hydro-)alcoholic-based (spray, aerosol, gel)
Oil-based
45
40
35
30
25
20
15
10
5
0
In v
ivo
SPF
23.2 22.8
Static SPF SPF after water immersionFigure 1: In vivo SPF data before and after immersion
EHT: Ethylhexyl triazoneBEMT: Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazineBP-3: Benzophenone-3OMC: Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamateDHBT: Diethylhexyl butamido triazone
Abbreviations:BMDBM: Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethaneDHHB: Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoateOCR: OctocryleneOS: Ethylhexyl salicylate HMS: Homosalate
23.0
41.841.3
37.2
32.331.8
Control of UV filter migration
The migration of sun care formulations on skin was found to be a source of eye irritation and less effective protection. In vivo tests demonstrated that the addition of Baycusan® C 1000 in an emulsion-based formulation inhibits the migration rate of UV filters across the skin. As shown in Figure 2, at 7.5 wt.% as supplied, Baycusan® C 1000 film former inhibits the average migration rate of an emulsion-based sun care formulation stabilized with low mole-cular emulsifiers by more than 60% over the blank formulation. An emulsifier-free formulation with the same Baycusan® concentration shows even better results: the inhibition of UV filter migration increases from 62% to 78% after about 2 hours.
SunCare SkinCare ColorCosmetics HairCare
RR 8020: 3% BMDBM + 10% OCR + 5% OS +10% HMSRR 8022: 5% OS + 13% HMS + 7% OCR + 4% BP-3 + 3% BMDBM RR 8163: 5% OS +6% DBT + 2% BEMT + 4% BMDBM + 2% DHHB + 3% EHT RR 8091: 4% BMDBM + 7% HMS + 7% OCR + 2% BEMT + 5% EHSRR 8094: 2% BMDBM + 15% HMS + 2% OCR + 6% BP-3 + 5% EHS
HMS: HomosalateEHT: Ethylhexyl triazoneBEMT: Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazineBP-3: Benzophenone-3
The addition of Baycusan® C film formers in a sun protection formulation significantly increases the sun protection factor (SPF) under special conditions. SPF measurements have shown that Baycusan® C film formers are selective SPF boosters with the UVB filters octocrylene and ethylhexyl triazone and with broadband UV filters such as bis-ethylhexyl-oxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (BEMT) and benzophenone-3. As shown in Figure 3, sun care formulations containing a combination of the above mentioned UV filters with other commonly used UV filters show analogous SPF-boosting effects.
SPF-boosting effect
Abbreviations:BMDBM: Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethaneDHHB: Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoateOCR: OctocryleneOS: Ethylhexyl salicylate
120
100
80
60
40
20
0RR 8020 RR 8022 RR 8163 RR 8091 RR 8094
In v
ivo
SPF
Without film former With Baycusan® productFigure 3: In vivo SPF data for formulations with and without Baycusan® C1000
21.6
32.625.6
58.7
77.0
96.0
22.6
35.026.9
51.6
Emulsion-based products with 7.5 wt% Baycusan ® C 1000
Ethanol-based products with 4.9 wt% Baycusan® C 2000
Emulsion-based products with 5 wt% Baycusan ® C 1004
13 12
0,7
0,6
0,5
0,4
0,3
0,2
0,1
0
Mig
ratio
n ra
te a
fter
120
min
(sq.
mm
/mg/
min
)
Control 7.5 % Baycusan ® C 1000Figure 2: Migration rate of a sun care formulation after 2 hours application
Qui
cker
mig
ratio
n
Classical emulsion Emulsifier-free formulation
-62%
-78%
Ethanol spray: containing 10% HMS + 5% OS + 1.5 % EHT + 3.8% BMDBM + 2% DHBT + 7% OCR Ethanol gel: containing 10% HMS + 5% OS + 5% BMDBM + 2,5% DHBT + 6% OCR
Abbreviations:HMS: HomosalateOS: Ethylhexyl salicylate EHT: Ethylhexyl triazone BMDBM: Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethaneDHBT: Diethylhexyl butamido triazoneOCR: Octocrylene
Wet skin application
Ethanol-based sun care formulations using Baycusan® C 2000 as film former can be applied on wet skin without leaving white traces. About 70% of the static SPF value measured on dry skin can be retained after application of the formulation on wet skin, as shown in Figure 4.
SunCare SkinCare ColorCosmetics HairCare
35
30
25
20
15
10
5
0
In v
ivo
SPF
SPF on dry skin SPF on wet skin Figure 4: In vivo SPF data on dry and wet skin
26.4
18.8
Ethanol spray with 4 % Baycusan ® C 2000
Ethanol gel with 4 % Baycusan ® C 2000
32.8
24.3-71%
-74%
SunCare SkinCare ColorCosmetics HairCare
Our skin is like a delicate pearl. Let’s treasure its beauty with gentle passion. SkinCare with Baycusan®.
Recommended raw materials
Physical properties
Trade name Baycusan® C 1000* Baycusan® C 1001* Baycusan® C 1004*
Appearance White, low viscosity liquid White, low viscosity liquid White, low viscosity liquid
Solid content 40.0 ± 2.0 32.0 ± 2.0 41.0 ± 2.0
Viscosity at 23°C ≤ 500 ≤ 1000 ≤ 1000
pH 7.5 ± 1.0 7.5 ± 1.0 7.5 ± 1.0
Peel-off effect
Baycusan® C 1001 and Baycusan® C 1004 enable the formulation of peel-off masks (a). After about 10 minutes, a wet peel-off formulation containing 30 wt% Baycusan® C 1001 as supplied forms a clear continuous film on the skin (b). If water is then applied to the treated skin, the product film turns white (c) and can be easily peeled off in one piece (d), as illustrated in figure 5.
SkinCare
Key features– Protects the skin against air pollutants– Easy & gentle peel-off with no skin irritation– Facilitates longer-lasting retention of actives on the surface of the skin
– Enhances efficacy of active ingredients– Rub-off resistance – Comfortable wear
Trade name Baycusan® C 1000* Baycusan® C 1001* Baycusan® C 1004*
INCI name Polyurethane-34 Polyurethane-34 Polyurethane-35
Chemical descriptionWater-based polyure thane
polymer (40% polymer, 60% water)
Water-based polyure thane polymer (32% polymer,
68% water)
Water-based polyure thane polymer (41% polymer,
59% water)
Ingredient category Film forming Film forming Film forming
Application area
Face care products
Face masks
Body care
Hand/foot care
SunCare SkinCare ColorCosmetics HairCare
18 19
suitable
* Also commercially available with 1.5% antimicrobial additive under the names Baycusan® C 1000/1, Baycusan® C 1001/1, and Baycusan® C 1004/1.
Figure 5: Peel-off mask application
a b
c d
Anti-pollution effect
When incorporated into skin care formulations, Baycusan® C 1004 forms a highly flexible and breathable invisible film that mimics the movement of skin, without any tightening sensation. This film acts as a barrier to air pollutants, especially respirable particular matter smaller than 2.5 µm (so-called PM 2.5). Baycusan® C 1004 reduces the absorption of air pollutants, thus preventing damage from external aggressors and early skin aging. To demonstrate the barrier properties of Baycusan® C 1004, absorption of PM 2.5 was mea-sured by covering the inlet of a PM-meter with a cotton piece treated with a gel formulation placed in a saturated atmosphere of PM 2.5. Figure 6 shows that if the concentration of Baycu-san® C 1004 is increased, the concentration of PM 2.5 measured decreases significantly, while the barrier properties of the product film are also clearly improved.
SunCare SkinCare ColorCosmetics HairCare
19
Without Baycusan® C 1004
1% Baycusan® C 1004 3% Baycusan® C 1004 5% Baycusan® C 1004
80
70
60
50
40
30
20
10
0
PM 2
.5 v
alue
[ µg
/m3
]
71.4
37.7
27.8
13.8
Figure 6: Measurement of the barrier properties of Baycusan® C 1004
-47%
-61%
-81%
Enhancing the efficacy of active ingredients
Baycusan® C film formers can significantly improve the efficacy of skin care formulations. In vivo studies demonstrate that Baycusan® C 1000 supports the controlled release of actives such as salicylic acid into the stratum corneum, consequently reducing the high irritation potential of salicylic acid. The influence of Baycusan® C 1000 on the efficacy of acne treat-ment was evaluated in vivo on the backs of subjects suffering from acne by applying the test formulation for four consecutive days. The results (see fig. 7) demonstrate that Baycusan® C 1000 produces a greater improvement in the acne symptoms than treatment with the control formulation: a significant reduction in redness, inflammation.
Another in vivo study shows that Baycusan® C 1004 improves the moisturizing effect of hyaluronic acid. As illustrated in Figure 8, the hydration level of stratum corneum measured with a cornometer is significantly higher when Baycusan® C 1004 is added into the formulation.
Day 1 Day 2 Day 3 Day 4
80
70
60
50
40
30
20
10
0
% o
f infl
amm
atio
n re
duct
ion
Base formulation (blank) 2% salicylic acid 5% Baycusan® C 1000 + 2% salicylic acidFigure 7: Inflammation reduction
Base formulation (blank) 1% hyaluronic acid 1% hyaluronic acid + 5% Baycusan®C 1004
Chan
ge fr
om b
asel
ine
afte
r 5 h
ours
[%]
Figure 8: Corneometry measurements
SunCare SkinCare ColorCosmetics HairCare
23
250
200
150
100
50
0
101.9%
160.8%
193.6%
Color is one of life’s amazing wonders. Let’s celebrate its pure joy.
ColorCosmetics with Baycusan®.
SunCare SkinCare ColorCosmetics HairCare
Key features– Water resistance– Sweat resistance– Rub-off resistance– Non-transfer
– Comfortable wear– Even color coverage
Physical properties
Trade name Baycusan® C 1000* Baycusan® C 1004*
Appearance White, low viscosity liquid White, low viscosity liquid
Solid content 40.0 ± 2.0 41.0 ± 2.0
Viscosity at 23°C ≤ 500 ≤ 1000
pH 7.5 ± 1.0 7.5 ± 1.0
Recommended raw materials
Trade name Baycusan® C 1000* Baycusan® C 1004*
INCI name Polyurethane-34 Polyurethane-35
Chemical descriptionWater-based polyurethane
polymer (40% polymer, 60% water)
Water-based polyurethane polymer (41% polymer,
59% water)
Ingredient category Film forming Film forming
Application area
Mascara
Eyeliner
Eyeshadow
Liquid foundation
Powder foundation
Make-up base
Lipstick and lipgloss
Nail polish
suitable
SunCare SkinCare ColorCosmetics HairCare
ColorCosmetics
26
* Also commercially available with 1.5% antimicrobial additive under the names Baycusan® C 1000/1 and Baycusan® C 1004/1.
The evaluation of non-transfer properties was conducted in vivo by spreading a fixed amount of foundation onto the forearm of volunteers under controlled conditions. After drying, the volunteers left an imprint of their forearm on a sheet of absorbing paper. As shown in figure 10, the imprints left from different foundation formulations containing Baycusan® C 1004 are significantly lower than standard formulations without Baycusan® C 1004.
Standard
Standard
Standard
Figure 10: Results of imprints
O/W
Baycusan® C 1004
Baycusan® C 1004
Baycusan® C 1004
W/O
W/S
Since Baycusan® C 1004 imparts superior wet rub-off resistance to color cosmetics formula-tions, it is an excellent choice for formulating waterproof and rub-off-resistant mascaras, eyeliners and liquid foundations. The excellent rub-off resistance properties of a mascara formulation (RR 8017) are demonstrated in figure 9.
No film former
Baycusan® C 1004 No film former
Warm tap water 10 seconds gentle rubbing
Baycusan® C 1004
Figure 9: Rub-off resistance
Before test:
Test:
After test:
SunCare SkinCare ColorCosmetics HairCare
29 28
Water resistance Non-transfer properties
Baycusan® C 1004 makes durable water-based nail polish formulations possible. The applica-tion of the nail polish is easy, color coverage good and removal facilitated by the excellent film-forming properties of Baycusan® C 1004. As shown in figure 11, the nail polish can be easily peeled off by lifting the edge at the side of the nail and pulling it off.
SunCare SkinCare ColorCosmetics HairCare
30
Peel-off properties in water-based nail polish formulations
Figure 11: Peel-off of the nail polish formulation containing Baycusan® C 1004
31
Hair can be the mirror of one’s soul. Let’s polish and protect it and keep it in balance.
HairCare with Baycusan®.
SunCare SkinCare ColorCosmetics HairCare
Key featuresStyling– Strong hold– Wash resistance– Waterproofing– Style retention– No tackiness – Natural feel
Care– Heat protection– Frizz control up to 24 hours– Anti-breakage– Effectively reduces length of split ends – Conditioning and detangling effect
Recommended raw materials
Trade name Baycusan® C 1001* Baycusan® C 1008* Baycusan® C 1010
Appearance White, low viscosity liquid White, low viscosity liquid White, low viscosity liquid
Solid content 40.0 ± 2.0 30.0 ± 2.0 40.0 ± 2.0
Viscosity at 23°C ≤ 500 ≤ 1000 ≤ 1000
pH 7.5 ± 1.0 7.0 ± 1.0 7.0 ± 1.0
Physical properties
Trade name Baycusan® C 1001* Baycusan® C 1008* Baycusan® C 1010
INCI name Polyurethane-34 Polyurethane-48 Polyurethane-35
Chemical descriptionWater-based polyure-thane polymer (32% polymer, 68% water)
Water-based polyure-thane polymer (30% polymer, 70% water)
Water-based polyure-thane polymer (40% polymer, 60% water)
Ingredient category Film forming Film forming Film forming
Application area
Hair styling
Aerosol and pump hair spray
Setting lotion, cream and gel cream
Aerosol and pump mousse
Hair care
Hair treatment
Leave-on conditioner
SunCare SkinCare ColorCosmetics HairCare
HairCare
35 34
Figure 12: SEM images of single knotted hair fiber
Baycusan® C 1001 Acrylates copolymer
Elasticity is one of the key characteristics of Baycusan film formers. Compared to traditional fixative polymers, Baycusan® polymers form exceptionally flexible films on hair. Figure 12 shows SEM images of single knotted hair fibers coated with an acrylate copolymer and Baycusan® C 1001. Under stress, the acrylate copolymer film becomes very brittle, while the Baycusan® C 1001 film remains smooth and shows no cracking.
suitable
* Also commercially available with 1.5% antimicrobial additive under the names Baycusan® C 1001/1 and Baycusan® C 1008/1.
Styling: Strong hold
Figure 13 shows a comparison of flexural strength tests (2 wt% active polymer inaqueous solution, 50% relative humidity, 21°C). Baycusan® C 1010 imparts strongholding power – as good as state-of-the-art styling copolymers, such as PVP-K90.
Baycusan®C 1001
Baycusan®C 1008
Baycusan®C 1010
PVP (K90) VP/VACopolymer
(ratio 70/30)
VP copolymer1
70
60
50
40
30
20
10
0
Max
imum
ben
ding
forc
e [c
N�
4549
63
56
28
53
Figure 13: Results of flexural strength test 1 VP/methacrylamide/vinyl imidazole copolymer
SunCare SkinCare ColorCosmetics HairCare
120
100
80
60
40
20
0
Hig
h hu
mid
ity c
url r
eten
tion
(%)
0 50 100 150 200 250 300 350 400Time (min)
Figure 14: Results of high humidity curl retention
Baycusan® C 1010Baycusan® C 1008Baycusan® C 1001
VP/VA copolymer (ratio 70/30)PVP (K90)VP/methacrylamide/vinyl imidazole copolymer
Styling: Humidity resistance
Baycusan® C 1001, Baycusan® C 1008 and Baycusan® C 1010 provide excellent high humidity curl retention for styling formulations – even better than market-leading styling polymers. As shown in figure 14, curl retention is measured as a function of time at 90% humidity and 25°C. Caucasian dark-brown hair tresses were treated with an aqueous solution of Baycusan® C 1001, Baycusan® C 1008 and Baycusan® C 1010 at a concentration of 2 wt% active.
SunCare SkinCare ColorCosmetics HairCare
Baycusan® C 1008 enhances the wash resistance properties of styling formulations. Hair styled with a Baycusan® C 1008-based formulation keeps its shape after immersion in warm water, and even after shampooing.
Figure 15 below shows the wash resistance of curly hair tresses (treated with an aqueous solution of film former at a concentration of 2 wt% active and straightened with a flat iron) before and after washing with a silicone-free commercial shampoo. After two shampoo cycles, Baycusan ® C 1008 clearly exhibits better wash resistance towards shampoo compared to an acrylate copolymer, and prevents straightened curly hair turning frizzy again when wet.
Before treatment:
Acrylates copolymer
Baycusan® C 1008
After treatment with polymer solution:
Acrylates copolymer
Baycusan® C 1008
Figure 15: Wash resistance test results
After two shampoo cycles:
38
Styling: Wash resistance
The exceptional mechanical properties of Baycusan® C 1010 result in excellent style retention. Figure 16 below illustrates the change in curl retention after running fingers through the curl (curl snap test). After they are run through ten times, Baycusan® C 1010 clearly exhibits a better curl retention than PVP (K90).
The curl snap test was repeated after placing the hair tresses in 90% relative humidity for one hour. As shown in figure 17, even at high humidity, Baycusan® C 1010 provides significantly a better style retention than PVP (K90), making it suitable for dry and humid climatic zones.
Styling: Style retention
Before test:
Before test:
PVP (K90)
PVP (K90)
Baycusan® C 1010
Baycusan® C 1010
After test:
PVP (K90)Baycusan® C 1010
After test:
PVP (K90)Baycusan® C 1010
Figure 16: Curl snap test results
Figure 17: Curl snap test results at 90% relative humidity
SunCare SkinCare ColorCosmetics HairCare
Cuticle split Breakage
Breakage Cuticle split
Figure 18: SEM images of hair fibers after applying heat, scale 10 µm
Protected with Baycusan® C 1008 (RR 8068)Unprotected Hair
Protected with a commercial prod-uct containing VP/VA Copolymer
Loss of lustrous shine, split hair ends and hair breakage are annoying features of hair damaged by styling tools, such as blow dryers, curlers and straightening irons, which can reach tempera-tures of up to 230°C. Baycusan® C 1008, a polymer that is stable up to 270°C, forms a protective coating on hair fiber so the hair feels revived, soft and non-sticky. Electron microscope images of hair fibers (see fig. 18) that have been regularly treated with a straightening iron over a long period of time show significant differences compared to conventional heat protection products. The thin, highly elastic Baycusan® C 1008 film protects hair against overheating. It expands with the hair under the influence of high temperatures and shrinks again during cooling, preventing fractures forming on the surface of the hair fibers.
Care: Heat protection
40 41
Care: Detangling effect
Baycusan® C1001 has a conditioning and detangling effect on hair, as the tips can then be eas-ily separated. Figure 20 indicates that, on average, 37% less force is needed to comb through hair tips treated with Baycusan® C 1001 than in untreated hair. And it is significantly harder to comb through hair treated with other technologies.
Figure 20: Relative change in combing force between untreated and treated hair (at the hair tip)
80
70
60
50
40
30
20
0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
Volu
me
(%)
8066 Base control Base + VP/VA Copolymer Base + Baycusan® C1008 Figure 19: Volume of frizzy hair as a function of time: 8 h under 90% RH
Time (h)
SunCare SkinCare ColorCosmetics HairCare
43
Care: Frizz control up to 24 hours
Baycusan® C 1008 adds long-lasting frizz control to leave-on formulations, providing significant volume reduction up to 24 hours – even at 90% relative humidity (see fig. 19). With leave-in conditioners, silicone oil is often used to achieve this effect. However, Baycusan® polyurethane dispersions also enable silicone oil-free formulations to form a protective film on the hair fibers. The film’s non-greasy texture gives hair a flexible feel and breathtaking shine.
-50.0% -40.0% -30.0% -20.0% -10.0% 0.0% 10.0% 20.0%
-37.8%
12.3%Acrylate copolymer 1
Baycusan® C 1001
16.6%
-9.0%
Acrylate copolymer 2
Competitive polyurethane
-10.8% Dimethicone