Mon

za

IAT MONZATOURIST INFORMATION AND ASSISTANCE

IAT main officeAssociazione Pro Monza

Piazza Carducci - portici Palazzo ComunaleTel./fax +39 039.323222

Infopoint - Railway Station gardensVia Caduti del Lavoro

Tel./fax +39 039.362722

iatmonza@gmail.comwww.promonza.it

COMUNE DI MONZA (MUNICIPAL AUTHORITY)Tourism and Events Office

Piazza Trento e TriesteTel. +39 039.2372222

turismo@comune.monza.itwww.comune.monza.it

Photographs:© Museo e Tesoro del Duomo di Monza

Associazione Pro MonzaAssociazione Amici dei Musei di Monza e Brianza Onlus

Umberto Isman, Vittorio Pigazzini

This brochure may not be reproduced. All rights reserved.

USEFUL INFORMATIONROYAL VILLA COMPLEX www.reggiadimonza.it - www.comune.monza.itVILLA REALE Tel. +39 039.39464213ROYAL GARDENS Free admittance. Open every day. Tel. +39 039.39464213Winter opening times: 7 am – 6 pm – Summer opening times: 7 am – 8 pmPARKOpen every day. Free admittance to public areas. Tel. +39 039.394641Winter opening times: 7 am – 7 pm – Summer opening times: 7 am - 8.30 pmThe facilities include a bicycle hire service and a tourist train.CAPPELLA ESPIATORIA (MEMORIAL CHAPEL)Free admittance. Tel. +39 039.380772Opening times: September to April, Tuesday to Saturday, 9 am – 2 pm;May to September, Tuesday to Saturday, 9 am – 12 am / 2 pm – 5 pm;1st, 3rd and 5th Sundays of the month: 9 am – 2 pmRACING CIRCUIT www.monzanet.it Open all the year round. Tel. +39 039.24821Autodromo Nazionale Monza, Via Vedano, 5.

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The Villa Reale was built in the years 1777 to 1780 by imperial Austrianarchitect Giuseppe Piermarini to the orders of Archduke Ferdinand ofHabsburg, Governor General of Lombardy. The Villa was successively anarchducal residence (under Ferdinand and Rainier of Habsburg), theseat of a French viceroy (Eugène de Beauharnais) and finally the homeof two kings of Italy (Victor Emmanuel II and Umberto I).The “U”-shaped ground plan is typical of country houses in eighteenth-century Lombardy: a central structure, only two storeys high, and twowings of the same height, extending forwards at right angles to themain building and terminating in less elevated, cube-shaped blocks –the Court Chapel to the left and the Cavallerizza (riding school) to theright. Together, these buildings form the main courtyard.

The principal structure, crownedby a belvedere, is accessed by agrand central flight of steps. It orig-inally housed the archducal andguest apartments, while the twowings were fitted out to accommo-date visitors and the domesticstaff.The more rustic outbuildings con-sisted of stables, coach-houses,kitchens – converted into a CourtTheatre in the early nineteenthcentury by Luigi Canonica – a largeconservatory (Serrone) and a Ro-tunda. Inside the central structure,the octagonal atrium serves as anante-room to the grand, high-ceilinged ballroom, from whichthere are fine views towards Milanand out over the gardens. Of spe-cial interest are the royal apart-

ments used by Umberto I and Margherita of Savoy, located on the firstfloor in the south wing, and the Chapel, beautifully designed by Pier-marini to a central plan. Dedicated to Mary Immaculate, this tiny churchis more richly decorated than any other part of the Villa, whose mag-nificent stucco and marquetry work, furniture and fittings were designedby artists of genius, such as Giocondo Albertolli, Alessandro Sanquiricoand Giuliano Traballesi.Where paintings are concerned, special mention must be made of AndreaAppiani’s fresco cycle in the Rotonda, illustrating the fable of Cupidand Psyche. Adjacent to the Villa are the Gardens, the first in Italy tobe laid out in the “English” style.They feature rare flowers and shrubs, groups of trees alternating withstretches of meadow, winding watercourses, a small Doric temple re-flected in the waters of a lake, and an artificial hill with pathways andthe neo-gothic Visconti tower.

CAPPELLA ESPIATORIANot far from the Villa Reale, on the right-hand side of the monumental avenue lead-ing to the Villa complex, stands the Cap-pella Espiatoria (1910), a memorial erectedin atonement for the death of King UmbertoI on the site of his assassination, on 29 July1900, by the anarchist Gaetano Bresci. Fromthe chapel at the base rises a square ta-pering column 35 metres in height. The col-umn is decorated on the north and southsides by large Latin crosses in alabaster,while the summit bears the symbols of roy-alty and a crown, all of bronze. Above the door of the chapel is a Pietàby Ludovico Pogliaghi.

THE PARKOn 14 September 1805, Napoleon issued a decree for the creation of a“large royal park”, alongside the Villa Reale and its gardens. The workwas begun in 1806 at the urging of the French viceroy, Eugène deBeauharnais. The chosen area, north of the township of Monza besidethe River Lambro, included the gardens of two patrician country houses(the Mirabello and Mirabellino), and a beautiful area of woodlandknown as the Bosco Bello. The park was intended for leisure pursuits,

including hunting, and alsofor activities of public util-ity, such as animal hus-bandry and the growing ofcrops. In 1807 it was en-closed by a boundary wall14 kilometres in length,built with materials from theruins of the Visconti castle.It thus became the most ex-tensive enclosed park in thewhole of Europe. When thetrees were well established,the park was opened to thegeneral public. In 1919, Villa

Reale and its Park were handed over to the Italian State and, in 1920,to a Consortium consisting of the municipalities of Monza and Milan,and the Umanitaria charitable foundation. In 1922, permission wasgranted for the construction of a national racing circuit (Autodromo)within the park. At the present time, close on five million square metresof land are reserved for public use (including the Gardens, whichaccount for 350,000 sq.m.), offering wonderful opportunities for sport,leisure pursuits, health and fitness, social activity and culture, thanksto the siting of modern art installations at various points in the grounds.

COUNTRY RETREATSThe park owes its beauty not only to theluxuriant vegetation, but also to the pres-ence of some fine buildings. These in-clude the Villa Mirabello, designed bythe architect Gerolamo Quadrio anderected in 1656 for the Durini family,and, on a rise diametrically opposite, theVilla Mirabellino, commissioned in 1776by Cardinal Angelo Maria Durini to ac-commodate his guests. Originally thesetwo country retreats, both built to thetypical “U”-shaped pattern, were con-

nected in spectacular fashion by an avenue of hornbeams, which hasrecently been replanted.

FARMS AND WATERMILLSThe land acquired for creating the parkincluded a number of existing farm-steads and watermills, which were sub-sequently rebuilt or converted to givethem a more dignified appearance. Inthe vicinity of the Villa Mirabello standsthe Mulino del Cantone and, furtherupstream, the mill of the Mulini As-ciutti farmstead, the only one whichstill has a working paddle wheel. Thearchitect Luigi Canonica also designedbuildings such as the Cascina Frutteto,a farm with an arcaded facade andneoclassical turret. In a dominant po-

sition stands the Cascina S. Fedele, neo-gothic in style, with marblefacings recovered largely from the demolished Milanese church of SantaMaria di Brera. Also worth seeing are the Cascina Casalta, a fine exampleof rural Lombard architecture, the Cascina del Serraglio, the CascinaCernuschi and the royal pheasantry (Fagianaia Reale), which nowhouses a restaurant.

THE LAMBROThe River Lambro flowsthrough the park andonce supplied a networkof canals whose waterspowered the variousmills. The Lambro runsalongside the boundarywall for some distance,then enters the Park andfollows a winding course,describing a wide semi-circle in the vicinity ofthe Villa Mirabello, be-fore leaving the Parkagain near the Franciscan monastery of Santa Maria delle Grazie. Itsbridges include the double-arched Ponte delle Catene, designed byCanonica, whose parapets consist of granite bollards joined by chains.

AUTODROMOThe northern section of the parkis occupied by the AutodromoNazionale, the racing circuitlaid out in 1922 on the initiativeof the Milan Automobile Club.Work on the circuit, designedby architect Alfredo Rosselliand supervised by engineerPiero Puricelli, began on 15May 1922 and was completed injust 110 frenetic days. The cir-cuit is a mecca for motor-carand motor-bike racing enthusi-asts, and many changes havebeen made over the years tokeep pace with technological developments. Its popularity with afi-cionados of the sport is evidenced by the hundreds of thousands ofspectators who crowd the stands for the events staged at this historicvenue, such as the Formula I Italian Grand Prix, the Superbike worldchampionship and the Intereuropa Cup for touring cars. La

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1. Villa Reale (Royal Villa)2. Neo-gothic tower3. Lake and Doric temple4. Cascina Bastia – bicycle

hire5. Villa Mirabello6. Villa Mirabellino7. Mulino del Cantone8. Mulini Asciutti

(watermill)9. Cascina Frutteto

(farm)10. Cascina San Fedele11. Cascina Casalta12. Cascina Cernuschi13. Fagianaia Reale (Royal

Pheasantry)14. Ponte delle Catene 15. Autodromo Nazionale

(Racing Circuit)16. Golf Club17. Cascina Fontana,

Park and Villa RealeDepartment Office /Villa Reale and Parcodi Monza Consortium

ROYAL VILLA COMPLEX:VILLA, GARDENS, PARK

HISTORICAL NOTESduomo in the gothic style began in 1300,followed by the city walls and the castle.This period of relative self-governmentended with the siege and capitulationof the city to Francesco Sforza, Monzahaving allied itself with the AmbrosianRepublic. The 16th and 17th centurieswere marred by disastrous wars, faminesand plagues. Now under Spanish domi-nation, the city and its territory werereduced to feudal status. Among thelords of Monza were the De Leyva, thefamily of the notorious Virginia, the way-ward nun in Manzoni’s Promessi Sposi,and the Durini. In 1706, the Spanishwere superseded by the Austrians andMonza enjoyed a cultural and economicrenaissance, culminating in the buildingof the Villa Reale (begun 1777) as a“country house” for Archduke Ferdi-nand of Habsburg. In Napoleon’s day,work began on the vast Royal Park(Parco Reale), under the orders of hisviceroy, Eugène de Beauharnais.After the Emperor’s defeat at Waterloo,the city was restored to the Habsburgs,who improved Monza by opening up newstreets and installing public lighting. Thetown’s progress was destined to continueunder the House of Savoy, which pro-vided the kings of united Italy. Monza’sindustrial and commercial developmentreally took off in the mid-19th century,in particular the processing of felt andthe related hat-making industry. Thetown’s association with the House ofSavoy, who held court in Villa Reale,

ended tragicallyon 29 July 1900with the assassi-nation of KingUmberto I by theanarchist Gae-tano Bresci. Amemorial chapel,the CappellaEspiatoria, waserected on thesite. In 1922, the

National Racing Circuit was laid out inthe park, making the name of Monzauniversally famous.Rich in history, art and culture, Monza,with 123,000 inhabitants, is an impor-tant service centre, chief town of theBrianza area and the third city in Lom-bardy.

Monza, formerly an important Romansettlement, became a key centre underthe Lombards, when their CatholicQueen Theodolinda chose it as the sum-mer residence for her court. She firstbuilt a palace there and later, in 595, apalatine chapel, on the site of the pres-ent Duomo, endowing it with an incomeand precious artefacts (the Tesoro). Thefamous Iron Crown, a masterpiece ofOstrogoth craftsmanship, probably foundits way to Monza in Carolingian times. Itis said to incorporate one of the nailsfrom Christ’s cross. Symbol of royaltyand sacred relic,it was used tocrown the Frank-ish Charlemagneas king of Italy,after he had de-feated the Lom-bards. In the 12thcentury, Freder-ick Barbarossachose Monza ashis favourite resi-dence and maintained a splendid courtthere. This period saw the beginnings ofthe medieval city-state (commune),which flourished and grew as trade de-veloped. From the 14th century, underthe lordship of the Visconti and Sforzafamilies, important buildings wereerected. The reconstruction of the

DUOMOMore than 1,400 years old with a long historyof international connections, richly decoratedand furnished, Monza’s Duomo is one of Italy’s− and indeed Europe’s − most important ec-clesiastical institutions. It developed on thesite of a 6th-century place of worship dedi-cated by the Lombard Queen Theodolinda toSt. John the Baptist. During the medieval pe-riod it was several times enlarged and re-stored, then in 1300 was replaced by a com-pletely new building, sponsored by thetown’s Visconti overlords, the constructionof which dragged on for the whole of the14th century. This is essentially the churchwe can admire today, though structurally anddecoratively it underwent many changes be-

tween the 15th and 19th centuries. A key figure in its building was thearchitect and sculptor Matteo da Campione, who supervised the workuntil 1396 and was responsible for the design of the facade. The opu-lence of the church’s surviving Gothic decoration is best exemplified bythe Cappella di Teodolinda, the chapel to the left of the chancel,whose walls were decorated with a vastcycle of paintings by the Zavattari work-shop to illustrate the life of the famousQueen. This is one of the greatest mas-terpieces of the international gothicstyle (1441-1446). The altar in this chapelhouses the Iron Crown, an artefact richin symbolic and historical significance,one of the most important examples ofthe jeweller’s art in the whole of the Western world. The precious dia-dem has served for the coronations of many great princes, includingCharlemagne (800), Conrad of Lorraine (1093), Frederick Barbarossa(1158), Charles V of Habsburg (1530) and Napoleon Bonaparte. Thechurch’s interior decoration was transformed in the 17th and 18th cen-turies, in the prevailing baroque and rococo styles, by such artists asArcimboldo, Legnanino, Borroni and Carloni.

DUOMO MUSEUM AND TREASURE Art treasures “restored” to the whole community, stirring an emotionalresponse and enriching our knowledge of the local artistic heritage: avisit to the monumental Duomo complex in Monza is a fascinating expe-rience, immersing us in a range of different settings and environmentsand taking us back to the very roots of Lombard history. The pricelesscollection of art works (tesoro) housed in the Duomo museum in Monzais unparalleled, not only for the rarity and costliness of the materials,but because they give us a detailed picture of the history of the church,from its founding in the Lombard era to the present day. Throughoutthis time, it has been intimately linked with the great political and re-ligious institutions and events of Italy and the rest of Europe. Theexhibits are displayed in a two-level architectural setting, greatly en-hanced by sensitive lighting. Thanks to cooperation between our lightingdesigners and commercial firms, the museum has become a researchand design centre for innovative lighting solutions, since adopted byother museums and major international exhibition centres.

USEFUL INFORMATIONDUOMO www.duomomonza.it - www.museoduomomonza.itOpen Monday to Saturday, 8am – 12am / 3pm – 6pm; Sundays, 8am – 1pm /3pm - 7pm. For information and guided tours, tel. +39 039.326383DUOMO MUSEUM AND TREASURE www.museoduomomonza.itOpening times Museum and Treasure: Tuesday to Sunday, 9am – 1pm / 2pm – 6pm. Closed on Mondays. Opening times Iron Crown (Corona Ferrea): Tuesday to Saturday, 9am – 1pm / 2pm – 6pm; Sundays, 2pm – 6pm; Mondays:groups only, by appointment. It is not possible to see the Iron Crown duringchurch services. For information and guided tours, tel. +39 039.326383 SANTA MARIA IN STRADAFor information and guided tours, tel. +39 039.326383ARENGARIO PALACE www.comune.monza.it Temporary exhibition venueSAN PIETRO MARTIREFor information and guided tours, tel. +39 039.326383SANTA MARIA IN CARROBIOLO www.carrobiolo.itOpening times: weekdays, 7am - 11.45am / 4pm – 7.15pm; Sundays andpublic holidays, 7am - 12.30pm / 4pm - 7.30pmMULINO COLOMBO www.memb.it Visiting times: Tuesdays and Thursdays,9am – 12am. For information, tel. +39 039.2304400SAN MAURIZIO For information and guided tours, tel. +39 039.326383ROYAL WAITING ROOM AT RAILWAY STATION www.amicimuseimonza.itOpening times: Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, 15.30-17.30.For information and guided tours: Associazione Amici dei Musei di Monza eBrianza +39 347.6986580

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N SANTA MARIA IN STRADAFrom Piazza del Duomo, the narrow Via Rossiemerges into Via Italia. Turn left here and youwill soon come to the church of Santa Maria inStrada, on the left, at the heart of the old me-dieval town centre. Founded in the mid-14thcentury by Franciscan Tertiaries, the churchhas an elegant facade, much taller than thenave behind, with firedbrick decoration, animportant example of Lombard gothic archi-tecture. The interior was transformed in the17th century and the current decoration is inthe 18th-century barocchetto style. Some ves-tiges of earlier periods do, however, survive: aroom with cross-vaulting at the base of the belltower houses a fragmentary late-14th-centuryfresco cycle by painters of the Lombard school.The adjoining 15th-century cloister has recently

been restored to its former glory.

ARENGARIOWalking back up the Via Italia, you will cometo Piazza Roma, on which stands the oldtown hall, known as the Arengario (fromthe Latin arengarius, derived in turn fromthe Germanic hari-hring, or place of assem-bly). The building was erected at the endof the 13th century, in close proximity tothe Duomo, a visual illustration of the op-position between the civil and religious au-thorities, which was also a fact of life inMonza during the period of the medievalcommune. The open arcades of the groundfloor are surmounted by a large hall formeetings and assemblies, with a balcony or loggia (the “parlera”), fromwhich official proclamations were read. The bell tower on the northside dates from the 15th century.

PALAZZO COMUNALE PIAZZA TRENTO E TRIESTE

Not far from the Arengariostands the modern-day townhall (palazzo municipale),work on which began in the1920s and was completed in1932. The building overlooksPiazza Trento e Trieste, theformer market square,which has recently under-gone redevelopment (2005-2009). Features have beenintroduced as a reminder ofthe square’s history and the

activities which took place there in days gone by: there are two squarearchways inspired by the ancient chiodere used in the traditional pro-cessing of woollen cloth and two small channels of running water,which hark back to the old Pelucca canal, while a series of tiles in thesquare’s paving reproduce the trade-marks of the 15th-century merchantfamilies. At the centre of the square rises the monument to Monza’swar dead (1923-1932), by the sculptor Enrico Pancera: twelve powerfulfigures representing The Victorious Wave of Assault, led on by Victory.

SAN PIETRO MARTIREIf we then take the Via Carlo Alberto,part of the medieval street layout, wecome, on the left, to the square andchurch of San Pietro Martire (14thcentury), and the adjacent monastery,originally a Dominican foundation. In-side, the church compled evolves intoa nave and two aisles; the aisles ofthe church are separated from thenave by cylindrical stone and fired-brick pillars, and in the apse chapelare vestiges of fourteenth-centuryfrescos of the Lombard school. Thechurch has been lovingly restored, which has brought to light many ofits original features. The facade and the side elevation visible from thesquare were restored in the nineteenth century to give the building itspresent neo-Romanesque appearance. The adjacent fifteenth-centurycloister is, however, perfectly preserved.

SANTA MARIA IN CARROBIOLOFarther along the Via Carlo Alberto, we come to Piazza Carrobiolo andits church, dedicated to the Madonna. It was completed around 1260for the religious Order of the Umiliati and, when their Order was sup-pressed (1571), was transferred to the Barnabites.Of the original medieval building, all that remains is the bell tower,

which has stood since 1240, and theperimeter fired-brick walls. The same ma-terial was used for the elegant series ofeighteenth-century religious buildingsoverlooking the square.The church houses some fine paintingsby Moncalvo, Morazzone and Simone Pe-terzano. Also worthy of note is the sand-stone doorway, with a statue of St. Paulby Buzzi (1731).

MULINO COLOMBOWalking towards Via De Amicis, we come to theeighteenth-century bridge of San Gerardinoand, close by, a water-driven mill, the MulinoColombo. This mill, already operating in theearly 18th-century, originally served to grindcorn, then was used for fulling (processingwool), and finally for pressing olives. The build-ing still houses the millstone, the press andother antique items of equipment.

SAN MAURIZIOOriginally dedicated to St. Margaret, this churchstands on the site of the former convent of SisterVirginia De Leyva, the infamous Nun of Monza inManzoni’s Promessi Sposi. It was built in 1736 toplans prepared by the Lombard architect GiovanniAntonio Quadrio.The classical arrangement of the fired-brick fa-cade is enlivened by the presence of a marbledoorway, a fine example of the Lombard baroc-chetto style.The interior is richly decorated with fresco paint-ings by Carlo Innocenzo Carloni and the trompe-l’oeil artists Carlo Perucchetti and GiuseppeCastelli.

PONTE DEI LEONIReturning by way of Via Vitto-rio Emanuele and walking to-wards the Arengario, we cometo the “Lion Bridge”, built in1842 on the remains the RomanArena bridge (an arch of whichis still visible at one end of thepresent structure), when theVia Ferdinandea (now the ViaVittorio Emanuele II) wasopened. The bridge consists ofthree arches with granite abut-ments, while adorning the sides are four marble lions by the sculptorAntonio Tantardini.

THEODOLINDA’S TOWERIn the vicinity of the Ponte dei Leoni, at the en-trance to the narrow Via Lambro, rises a thir-teenth-century tower named after QueenTheodolinda. This fortified gateway, markingthe entrance to the old medieval town, is allthat remains of the former circle of walls. It isthree storeys in height, the third not added until1880, pierced by characteristic windows (withone, two and three openings) and surmountedby battlements.

TORRE VISCONTEAImmediately beyond the Ponte dei Leoni, on theleft, is a walkway along the River Lambro. Fol-low this as far as Via Azzone Visconti and turnright, and you will be facing the torre viscontea(1325), a square tower rising from the river.This is the only vestige of the castle built in the14th century by Galeazzo Visconti, eventuallydemolished in 1809. You can still make out theopenings for the chains used for raising and low-ering the drawbridge.

RAILWAY STATIONHaving visited the old towncentre, make your way to thenearby Railway Station (1884).Perfectly preserved is the royalwaiting room used by UmbertoI and Margherita of Savoy onsummer visits to Monza to stayat the Villa Reale. These visitscontinued from 1884 until theking’s final journey to Rome,for burial, on 8 August 1900.The room is decorated withstuccowork, wooden panellingand paintings in the “late-

eclectic” style. On the ceiling is a medallion in tempera by Mosè Bianchidepicting The Genius of the Savoy Dynasty (1883-84).

1. Duomo – Duomo Museum and Treasure2. Santa Maria in Strada3. Arengario Palace4. Palazzo Comunale and Piazza Trento Trieste5. San Pietro Martire 6. Santa Maria in Carrobiolo7. Mulino Colombo8. San Maurizio9. Ponte dei Leoni

10. Theodolinda’s Tower11. Torre Viscontea12. Railway Station

IAT OFFICE - Tourist Information andAssistance, Piazza CarducciINFO POINT - Tourist information,in the Railway Station gardens