India Cotton Duvet daily 4 free sewing Denim for the home

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India Cotton Duvet Cover + pillow Shams

Denim Throw

elephant placemats

apple Coasters

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sewing made modern.

4 free sewing projects for the home: How to Make a Duvet Cover, pattern for fabric Coasters, Sewing placemats and Quilts

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Please respect the copyright by not forwarding or distributing this document.

4 free sewing projects for the home How to Make a Duvet Cover, pattern for fabric Coasters, Sewing placemats and Quilts

1 India Cotton Duvet Cover + Pillow Shams............................................32 Denim Throw...............................................6

3 Elephant Placemats..................................94 Apple Coasters.........................................13

Photo by Larry Stein

edItor Amber EdendesIgners Charlene Tiedemann and Jocelin Damien

ILLustratIon Ann Sabin SwansonPhotograPhy Joe Hancock (unless otherwise noted)

ProjeCt desIgners

Tricia Waddell, Marlene Blessing, Lisa Cox, and Ayumi Takahashi

Projects and information are for inspiration and personal use only. Sew Daily and Stitch magazine are not responsible for any liability arising from errors, omissions, or mistakes contained in this eBook, and readers should proceed cau-tiously, especially with respect to technical information. Interweave grants per-mission to photocopy any patterns published in this issue for personal use only.

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Welcome to our Sew Daily eBook: 4 Free Sewing Projects for the Home.

We found our home décor accessories eBook to be so popular that we have updated it, offering some old favorites, along with some new patterns that are sure to get you even more inspired to sew accessories for your home.

The India Duvet Cover + Pillow Sham by founding Stitch editor Tricia Waddell is a gorgeously simple way to add some spice to your bedroom. Transform an inexpensive Indian block-printed sheet into an exotic bed set. Set the duvet off with a brightly colored fabric backing; then make matching pillow shams with pretty trims. There’s no quicker way to redecorate.

The Denim Throw by Marlene Blessing, is a whimsi-cal take on this much-loved fabric. The weight and width of denim is perfect for a cozy throw or coverlet, and with so many colors of denim to choose from, you will have no trouble finding the perfect shade. Then decorate your throw as if it’s an artist’s canvas with clever appliqué semi-circles made using a cake pan as a template.

The Elephant Placemats by Lisa Cox add a global rhythm to your tabletop with an elephant silhouette appliqué featuring a batik print. The contrasting cotton prints and striped binding play off each other in perfect syncopation. The body of the placemat is made from durable linen or heavy cotton to stand the test of many mealtimes. Plus, the instructions include a special tutorial on creating raw edge appliqué.

The Apple Coasters by Ayumi Takahashi is a beyond cute set of four coasters that come together to create a pretty apple. Add colorful contrast with different fabrics on the front and back, and create your own binding from the fabric of your choice. Simple embroidery and quilting add texture to these fruity coasters.

I hope that you enjoy making these projects for your home. Home décor accessories were some of my first sewing projects and are the ones that have gotten the most use. The wonderful thing about sewing for your home is that you can customize with colors and fabrics to your heart’s con-tent, for a fraction of the price of store bought selections.

Happy stitching,

amber edenEditor, Stitch magazine and SewDaily.


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4 free sewing projects for the home How to Make a Duvet Cover, pattern for fabric Coasters, Sewing placemats and Quiltssewdaily

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Take an inexpensive Indian block-printed sheet and trans-form it into an exotic bed set. Use a bright fabric for the duvet back and coordinating pillow shams. Then add decora-tive details with assorted trims on the shams and a silk panel in the duvet center.

by Tricia Waddell

Fabric— Queen-size Indian printed cotton flat

sheet (commonly 90" x 102" [2.3 x 2.6 m])

— 5 yd (4.6 m) of rayon or cotton (at least 54" [137 cm] wide) for shams and underside of duvet (Contrast)

— 34" x 16½" (86.5 x 42 cm) piece of silk douppioni (optional)

Other SupplieS— All-purpose thread to match the

sheet and Contrast fabric— Contrasting or metallic thread to

match silk douppioni (optional)— 20" (51 cm) each of assorted trims for

pillow sham (shown here: silk ribbon, sequins, cording, and braid)

— Matching or metallic thread to attach trims

— Handsewing needle— Clear acrylic ruler— Rotary cutter and self-healing mat

For explanaTions oF Terms + Techniques used

click here For our seWing Basics online

India Cotton Duvet Cover + Pillow Sham

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of the underside panel, if necessary. Fold over ½" (1.3 cm) to the wrong side on the sheet and the underside panel at the open edge and press, then fold another 1" (2.5 cm) to the wrong side and press again to make a neat hem all the way around. Pin the hem in place, then topstitch all the way around the open edge, ¼" (6 mm) from the inner fold (your stitching will be about ¾" [2 cm] from the outer edge).

attach tieS8On one tie (cut in Step 2), fold ½" (1.3 cm) to the wrong side on each short edge and press. Now, fold over each long edge ½" (1.3 cm) to the wrong side so that the raw edges meet in the middle and press (figure 1). Then, fold the tie in half lengthwise, enclosing the raw edges, and press (figure 2). Pin along the tie to hold the folds in place and then edgestitch (see Sewing Basics) along both short sides and the long open side to finish the tie; begin with one short edge and pivot 90

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figure 1

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figure 2

FiniShed SizeStandard pillow shams 20" x 26" (51 x 66 cm); queen-size duvet cover shown is 89" x 95" (2.2 x 2.4 m).

nOteS— All seam allowances are ½" (1.3 cm)

unless otherwise noted.— Both comforter and flat sheet sizes

marked as queen size can vary by manufacturer. To ensure that your duvet cover fits properly or to customize the cover to a different size comforter, measure the length and width of your comforter and adjust the cutting dimensions (and/or consider a smaller or larger flat sheet), if necessary. If you are using a flat sheet for the duvet cover, be sure to check the dimensions in addition to the marked size. Down and down alternative comforters are quite squishy and will fit easily into a cover with slightly smaller dimensions, but you don’t want the cover to be overly large because this can cause the comforter to slide around (a little extra space is okay). If your sheet is not quite large enough for the cover you wish to make, consider adding a border of a coordinating fabric to obtain the necessary measurements for the cover front.

— Prewash all washable fabrics. Prewash the Indian printed sheet alone in case the fabric dyes run. The specified width of the rayon or cotton fabric (for the shams and duvet underside) accounts for shrinkage.

cut Out Fabric1Find a large area such as a dining room table or floor space to lay out your fabric for cutting. Using a rotary cutter and self-healing mat or scissors and a clear acrylic ruler, measure and cut two panels, each 45½" wide x 97" long (1.15 x 2.5 m), from the Contrast fabric for the underside of the duvet. For the pillow shams, cut two 27" wide x 21" long (68.5 x 53.5 cm) pieces (front panels), two 11 ¾" wide x 21" long (30 x 53.5 cm) pieces (back panel A), and two 20¼" wide x 21" long (51.5 x 53.5 cm) pieces (back panel B) from the Contrast fabric.

2Cut ten ties 2" wide x 9" long (5 x 23 cm) from the Contrast fabric.

aSSeMble duVet3Place the two Contrast panels right sides together, matching up all edges, and machine stitch along one 97" (2.5 m) side. You have now created the underside panel. Press the seam allowances open and set aside.

4 If desired, center the silk douppioni rectangle on the right side of the Indian cotton sheet (position the silk vertically along the length of the sheet). Pin in place. Use a decorative or zigzag machine stitch and contrasting or metallic thread to topstitch (see Sewing Basics) the rectangle in place, stitching ¼" (6 mm) from the edge, around the entire perimeter of the silk rectangle.

5Spread out the underside panel on a large, flat surface, with the right side facing up. Place the sheet on top, right side down, and match up all the edges (right sides will be together; the sheet may be longer than the underside panel, so if this is the case, simply match up one short edge and the excess will be trimmed in Step 7). If the sheet width doesn’t match up neatly with the underside panel, trim it to size equally on the two long sides. Pin together around the perimeter.

6Machine stitch around three sides, leaving one short (90" [2.3 m]) edge open; be sure to remove pins as you go. Press all seam allowances open. Clip the seam allowances at the corners.

7On the open end of the duvet, trim the cotton sheet flush with the edge

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degrees at the corner with the needle down, sew down the long end, and then pivot at the next corner as before and sew along the remaining short edge (this will create a continuous stitch line). Repeat the entire step for each of the remaining ties.

9Place the hemmed duvet cover opening in front of you with the sheet on top (with the duvet cover still inside out). *Take five of the completed ties and distribute them evenly along the hemmed edge of the sheet, positioning one short edge of each tie ¾" (2 cm) above the edge (this will leave a little more than 7" [18 cm] of each tie hanging down past the edge of the duvet cover). Pin each tie in place on the sheet only. Turn the duvet cover over so that the underside panel is now on top and repeat from *, matching up the

placement of each tie with those on the front (sheet) side.

0Using a small zigzag stitch, sew each tie in place by sewing across the tie, about ¼" to ½" (6 mm to 1.3 cm) from the edge. Be sure to stitch back and forth over each tie a couple of times to secure it firmly in place. The duvet cover is finished!

SeW triMS tO pillOW ShaM FrOntS-Depending on the type of trims you chose, you can probably machine stitch them in place, but if they are lacy or delicate trims you may have to handstitch them instead. With one front panel (27" x 21" [68.5 x 53.5 cm]) facing right side up, pin the first trim in place about 2½" (6.5 cm) from one short edge. Machine or handstitch in place (to

machine stitch, use a zigzag or straight stitch, or other desired decorative stitch; to handstitch you can simply use a running stitch or a more decorative embroidery stitch as desired). Place each additional trim ½" (1.3 cm) from the previous one and machine or handstitch in place as before. (The sequin string and openwork braid shown in the sample were handstitched in place, while the wider trims were machine-stitched in place; if you are using a sequin string, use a whipstitch to secure it and hide the stitches between the sequins. Cut off any excess trim flush with the edge of the fabric. Repeat the entire step to attach the trims to the second pillow front. If the trims are directional, be sure to make one left sham and one right sham. (See detail photo left.)

aSSeMble pillOW ShaM=On one 21" (53.5 cm) edge of each back panel piece (both As and Bs), fold ¼" (6 mm) to the wrong side and press, then fold another ¼" (6 mm) to the wrong side on each and press again. Edgestitch along the inner fold on each panel (your stitching will be just shy of ¼" [6 mm] from the outer edge).

qTo assemble a sham, place one front panel right side up in front of you. *Place one back panel A on top, right side down (right sides together), aligning it along the embellished short edge of the front panel and with the hemmed edge facing toward the middle. Repeat from * to place one back panel B, aligning it along the opposite short edge; the two back panels will overlap by about 4" (10 cm). Pin and then stitch around the entire perimeter. Use a serger, pinking shears, or zigzag stitch to finish the seam allowances and prevent fraying. Clip the corners, turn the sham right side out through the back panels, and push out the corners. Repeat the entire step to create the second sham.

Tricia Waddell is the former editor in chief of Stitch. When she’s not working, she’s sewing.

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There are so many shades of denim fabric—but whatever blue you choose, denim’s weight and generous width makes it perfect for a cozy throw or cov-erlet. Get creative and design it like at modern canvas with appliquéd fabric graphics.

by marlene Blessing

Fabric— 2 yd (1.8 m) of 60" (152.5 cm) wide

dark blue stretch denim — 3⁄8 yd (34.3 cm) of 60" (152.5 cm) wide

light blue stretch denim— 2 yd (1.8 cm) of 60" (152.5 cm) wide

printed polyester fleece for backing— 8 assorted print cotton fat quarters

(18" x 22" [45.5 x 56 cm] each)

Other SupplieS— Coordinating and contrasting all-

purpose sewing threads and quilting threads

— 2 yd (1.8 m) of 1" (2.5 cm) wide rayon grosgrain ribbon with grommets or similar trim (shown: black)

— 1 yd (91.5 cm) of 1½" (3.8 cm) wide rayon grosgrain ribbon (shown: dark gold)

— 1½ yd of 1½" (3.8 cm) wide rayon grosgrain ribbon in contrasting color (shown:maroon)

— 7" (18 cm) of 5⁄8" (1.5 cm) wide rayon grosgrain ribbon with stitch edging (shown: turquoise)

— 2 yd (1.8 cm) of zipper-by-the-yard (shown: black)

— Tailor’s chalk or removable fabric marker



Denim Throw




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14"

(35.

5 cm

)

10½

"(2

6.5

cm)

21"(53.5 cm)

29"(73.5 cm)

9¼"(23.5 cm)

13¼"(33.5 cm)

18"(45.5 cm)

8¼"(21 cm)

18¼"(46.5 cm)

12½

"(3

1.5

cm)

13½

"(3

4.5

cm)

11¾"(30 cm)

11¼"(44 cm)

1"(2

.5 c

m)

diagram

— 9" (23 cm) diameter cake pan, plate, or other round item to trace around

— Zipper foot for sewing machine— Point turner (optional)— Handsewing needle

FiniShed Size56" wide x 70" long (142 x 178 cm)

nOteS— All seam allowances are 5⁄8" (1.5 cm)

unless otherwise noted.— To determine the placement of trims

and appliqués, lay the denim top on a large table or the floor and pin everything in place, referring to the diagram above for assistance.

cut the Fabric1 Cut a 57" x 71" (145 x 180 cm) rectangle from the dark denim, keeping the corners square and the edges straight.

2 Cut a 57" x 71" (145 x 180 cm) rectangle from the fleece backing fabric.

appliqué & prepare quilt tOp3 The dark denim top is divided into three lengthwise sections by long strips of grosgrain trim and zipper-by-the-yard. The two widest pieces of grosgrain combine with a short horizontal strip to create a stair step near the center. The zipper and grommet trims are placed

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on either side of the center grosgrain strip. Refer to the diagram above for the measurements used in the sample; alternatively, lay the trims on the dark denim, placing them as desired, and measure from each trim strip to the nearest edge at two or more places to ensure the lines are straight. Pin each trim to the denim, tucking the interior ends of the wide grosgrain ribbons under the horizontal ribbon so the raw edges are covered. Trim the ends of the horizontal ribbon at an angle.

4 With tailor’s chalk, trace the outer edge of the cake pan onto the light denim and cut along the line to create a circle. Slip the denim circle under the grommet trim, centering it, and pin to the denim. Edgestitch both edges of each trim to the denim, using a straight stitch and contrasting threads. Stitch the zipper along the tape edge, then stitch again close to the zipper teeth. Use a zipper foot to stitch the zipper and grommet trims. Use a tight satin stitch or zigzag (2.0 mm wide and 0.3–0.5 mm wide) to finish the cut ends of the horizontal ribbon to limit fraying. All other trim ends will be hidden under the horizontal ribbon or in the seam allowances.

5 Trace the outer edge of the cake pan and cut to create one circle from each of the fat quarters. Fold each print fabric circle in half, wrong sides together, and press. Lay the half-circles on the denim top as shown in the diagram or arrange them as you like, carefully abutting the fold in each half-circle against the adjacent trim edge. Pin the circles in place. Hand-baste the half-circles and the denim circle near their edges; remove the pins. Stitch each half-circle and the denim circle to the throw with contrasting threads, using a wide satin stitch (3.0–3.5 mm wide and 0.3–0.4 mm long) on the circular edges and a straight stitch along the folded edge of each circle. Position the satin stitches near the curved edges but not covering them, so the edges can fray gently for a bit of extra texture. Remove the basting stitches.

attach the backing6 Pin the right sides of the fleece backing and the denim top together. Trim the backing and square up the edges, if necessary, to ensure that the raw edges match and the throw will be smooth. Stitch the layers together, leaving a gap in the top edge open, using quilting thread (heavier than all-purpose thread for extra durability). When finished stitching, trim the seam allowances diagonally at the corners to reduce bulk.

7 Turn the entire throw right side out, using the point turner to make clean

points on the corners. Smooth out the entire throw and press the edges, pressing the seam allowances to the wrong side along the gap. Pin the folded edges at the gap and slipstitch to close. Topstitch ½" (1.3 cm) from the edge around the entire throw, pivoting at the corners for a continuous stitch line.

Marlene Blessing is a lifelong sewist, crafter, writer, and former editorial director for Beadwork and Stringing Magazines. She contributes regularly to STITCH and can (and will) never resist a great new fabric or notion.

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Add an exotic touch to your table with quilted placemats featuring an elephant silhouette appliqué in a batik print. Contrasting cotton prints and a patterned binding elegantly border these placemats made of linen or heavy cotton.



Elephant Placematsby lisa cox

Fabric (FOr 1 placeMat)— 1⁄3 yd (30.5 cm) of coarse-weave

Indian cotton or canvas for appliqué background (shown: white)

— ½ yd (46 cm) of batik print for appliqué and placemat backing (shown: purple floral)

— ¼ yd (23 cm) of striped cotton print for binding (shown: multicolor stripes)

— 4 brightly colored cotton prints for the borders (2 strips at least 4" × 18"

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figure 1

raW edge appliquéThis appliqué method is quick and easy, resulting in a raw-edge finish. It’s great for creating an organic and slightly frayed look with woven fabrics.

You will need:— Paper-backed fusible web — Craft/paper scissors— Fabric shears— Embroidery scissors— Pencil— Coordinating (or contrasting)

sewing thread

1 Trace the template onto the paper side of the paper-backed fusible web (or trace the template onto the wrong side of the fabric).

2 Rough cut the shape from the fusible web, leaving a margin of about 1⁄2" (1.3 cm) around the shape. Following the manufacturer’s instructions, adhere the fusible web to the wrong side of the appliqué fabric. Then, cut the shape along the drawn lines.

3 Remove the paper backing and place the shape, right side up, on the background fabric. Adhere the shape to the fabric, following the manufacturer’s instructions.

4 Stitch the shape in place around the edges, using a straight, zigzag, blanket, satin, or other decorative stitch (refer to your sewing machine manual for assistance).

[10 × 45.5 cm] and 2 strips at least 4" × 13" [10 × 33 cm])

Other SupplieS— One 15" × 20" (38 × 51 cm) piece of

quilt batting— One 9" × 12" (23 × 30.5 cm) or similar

sheet of paper-backed fusible web (Recommended: Steam-A-Seam or Vliesofix)

— Coordinating sewing thread — Quilt-basting spray— Rotary cutter, rigid acrylic ruler, and

self-healing mat— Walking foot with a quilting guide

for sewing machine (optional)— Masking tape (optional, for marking

quilt lines)— Elephant template

FiniShed Size17½" × 12½" (44.5 × 31.5 cm)

nOteS— All seam allowances are ¼" (6 mm)

unless otherwise noted.— A Malaysian batik sarong was used

for the appliqué and placemat backing on the sample; any batik or other preferred fabric may be used.

— To prevent later shrinkage or bleeding, prewash and dry all fabric before cutting, using the same method you intend to use for the finished placemats.

cut the Fabric1 From the indian cotton, cut:

— 1 rectangle measuring 14½" × 9½" (37 × 24 cm) for the appliqué background

From the brightly colored cotton prints, cut:— 2 strips measuring 2¼" × 16¼"

(5.5 × 41.5 cm) and 2 strips measuring 2¼" × 11¼" (5.5 × 28.5 cm)

From the binding fabric, cut: — 2 strips measuring 2¼" × 42" (5.5 ×

106.5 cm) on the straight grainFrom the batik print, cut:— 1 rectangle measuring 15" × 20" (38 × 51 cm)

cOnStruct the placeMat tOp2 With right sides together, pin one of the 2¼" × 16¼" (5.5 × 41.5 cm) cotton strips to the top edge of the Indian cotton appliqué background rectangle; make sure the right-hand edges are aligned. Starting in the middle

of the pinned edge, stitch together, backtacking at the beginning and stitching toward the right-hand edge. Leave the remainder of the strip free because it will be attached later (figure 1). Press the seam allowance toward the border strip.

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3 With right sides together, pin one of the 2¼" × 11¼" (5.5 × 28.5 cm) cotton strips to the right-hand side edge of the background rectangle and top border strip and stitch. Press the seam allowances toward the border strip.

4 Pin and sew the remaining 2¼" × 16¼" (5.5 × 41.5 cm) cotton strip along the bottom edge of the background rectangle and side border strip as in Step 6. Pin and sew the remaining 2¼" × 11¼" (5.5 × 28.5 cm) cotton strip along the left-hand side edge and bottom border strip.

5 Stitch the remainder of the top strip to the top edge, backtacking where the stitching meets your original seam. Press. You have now created the placemat top.

6 Apply basting spray to the batting, following the manufacturer’s directions. Position the placemat top on the batting with the right side facing up and quilt as desired, using a walking foot if necessary to feed the layers evenly. The sample placemat was quilted with lines ¾" (2 cm) apart on the background rectangle and lines ¼" (6 mm) apart on the border panels (see photo). Install a quilting guide to keep your lines ¾" (2 cm) apart and use the edge of your presser foot to space the narrower lines, or apply masking tape of the

appropriate width to the placemat top and stitch along the edges.

appliqué the elephant7 Refer to the sidebar at right to prepare and appliqué the Elephant, using the provided template. Center the Elephant on the background panel and stitch around it with a straight stitch, close to the edge of the fabric. Stitch around the shape three times, overlapping the stitching lines slightly to give it a sketchy appearance (use contrasting thread if you’d like this detail to stand out).

cOMplete the placeMat8 Layer the placemat top on the batik backing with the wrong sides together and baste together with basting spray. Square up the placemat, trimming the excess batting and backing fabric to match the placemat top.

9 Stitch the two binding strips together end to end with a diagonal seam (see Sewing Basics). Fold in half lengthwise with wrong sides together and press to create double-layer binding. Attach the binding to the placemat following the directions under Binding with Mitered Corners (option B) in Sewing Basics.

lisa cox is an occupational therapist by day and an avid crafter at night. Her designs have appeared in many books and magazines, includ-ing Pretty Little Presents, Sweet Nothings, Craft Hope, Quilting Arts Gifts, Homespun, and Handmade. Lisa lives in Perth, Australia, and she collaborates with her daughter Sarah on their blog, A Spoonful of Sugar (spoonfullof-sugargirls.blogspot.com), where you can follow their sewing and baking adventures.

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elephant tem

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By ayumi Takahashi

Fabric — ½ yd (46 cm) of 45" (115 cm) wide red

print cotton (Main)— ½ yd (46 cm) of 45" (115 cm) wide pale

yellow cotton (Contrast; shown: Kona cotton from Robert Kaufman fabrics)

— Scrap of dark green felt, at least 4" × 4" (10 × 10 cm)

— Scraps of various red print fabrics — Scrap of brown with white polka dots

(for apple seeds), at least 3" × 3" (7.5 × 7.5 cm) Note: Substitute plain brown fabric if dots aren’t available and add the dots with a white gel pen or fabric paint.

Other SupplieS— 14" × 11" (35.5 × 28 cm) piece of

lightweight fusible fleece

Sew this adorable set of coasters that come together to create a perfect apple. Make your own bias tape to outline the shapes and finish off the apple with simple embroidery for added texture.

Apple Coasters

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apple coaster & seed templates

Apple CoasterLeaf

(cut 2)

Apple CoasterSeed(cut 2)

Top Apple CoasterCut 2 (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)

from quilted cotton

Bottom Apple CoasterCut 2 (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)

from quilted cotton

outer edge

outer edge

inner

edg

ein

ner

edg

e

inner edge

inner edge

— Quilt basting spray— Sewing thread in red, pale yellow,

and brown — 1 sheet of lightweight fusible web

(such as Heat N’ Bond)— Embroidery thread in light green and

dark green— 4" (10 cm) of flat leather cord— Apple Coaster pattern and templates

FiniShed Size: About 11" × 9" (28 × 23 cm) when 4 coasters are placed to make a single big apple (not including leaf). Each separate coaster is about 5 1⁄2" × 4 1⁄2" (14 × 11.5 cm)

nOte— All seam allowances are ¼" (6mm)

unless otherwise indicated.

cut Fabric1 Cut out one 14" × 11" (35.5 × 28 cm) piece each from the red print cotton and the pale yellow cotton.

2 Using the provided Leaf template, cut 2 leaves from felt; set aside for use in Step 11.

Make binding 3 Using more of the Main fabric and scraps of other red fabrics, create a bias strip measuring 50" × 2" (127 × 5 cm) for binding the outer edges of the apple. Refer to the instructions under Create Binding in Sewing Basics for joining the strips with diagonal seams and folding the binding strip (option B). Cut the piece into 4 equal lengths, one for each apple section.

4 Using the rest of the red print fabrics and the pale yellow fabric, create a binding tape for the straight edges of the apple sections. Begin with a 44" × 7⁄8" (112 × 2.2 cm) strip each of pale yellow and red, piecing as necessary to achieve the full length. Note: This strip does not need to be cut on the bias. Sew the 2 strips along one long edge with right sides together. Press the seam open and fold the assembled strip in half, then follow the folding instructions for option A under Create Binding (the center crease will actually be


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the seamline in this case), creating a strip that is pale yellow on one side and red on the other. Cut the assembled strip into 4 equal pieces.

create cOaSterS5 Iron the fusible fleece onto the wrong side of the 14" × 11" (35.5 × 28 cm) piece of red print cotton, following the manufacturer’s instructions. Coat the other surface of the fusible fleece lightly but evenly with quilt basting spray and attach it to the wrong side of the 14" × 11" (35.5 × 28 cm) piece of pale yellow cotton.

6 Thread the machine with pale yellow thread in the needle and red in the bobbin. Set the machine for a regular straight stitch and machine quilt the layers together. Sew with the pale yellow fabric on top so the stitches blend into the fabric on both sides. Stitch parallel lines 3⁄8" (1 cm) apart parallel to the 11" (28 cm) fabric edges across the entire fabric surface.

7 Using the provided Apple patterns, cut 2 of each piece (Top and Bottom)

from the quilted cotton (cut 1, cut 1 reverse for each piece to create a whole apple). The quilted lines should run from top to bottom of each apple section.

8 Using the pale yellow/red binding from Step 4, bind the inner two edges of each apple, making sure that each side of the binding is stitched to the corresponding color on the apple. Follow the instructions under Binding with Mitered Corners, option A, in Sewing Basics, to attach the binding and miter the corners. Trim the binding raw edges flush with the apple pieces’ outer edges.

9 Use the red binding from Step 3 to bind the outer edge of each apple (use option B this time). Unfold the binding slightly and press 1⁄4" (6 mm) to the wrong side at the beginning and end of each section so there are no raw edges on the binding.

attach SeedS & leaF0 Following the manufacturer’s instructions, iron the fusible web onto

figure 1

the wrong side of the brown polka-dot fabric. Using the provided Seed template, cut 4 seeds from the bonded polka-dot fabric, positioning each seed so a tiny white dot sits at the rounded end of the seed. Fuse one seed onto each apple section.

- Embroider leaf veins onto one of the felt leaves using the light green embroidery thread (see Leaf template for suggested placement) and a running stitch. Stitch one end of leather cord to the leaf as you embroider, positioning it to form the stem.

= Place the 2 leaves, wrong sides together, making sure the leather cord is sandwiched between them. Join the leaves with a blanket stitch around the edge, using the dark green embroidery thread.

q Use brown thread and a running stitch to attach the other end of the leather cord to the top edge of one of the top apple coasters (figure 1). Make sure your stitches catch only the red fabric and do not show on the yellow side.

ayumi Takahashi was born and raised in Japan but now resides in northern California. She is passionate about creating things from scratch and shares her craft projects and easy sewing tutorials on her blog, Pink Penguin, at ayumills.blogspot.com.


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India Cotton Duvet daily 4 free sewing Denim for the home