Index

6th Amendment 74--6, 555, 632, 638-9 see also EEC Cosmetics Directives

Abrasives nail powders 329 toothpastes 225-7

Absorptiometry 516,521 Absorption, dyes 309-10 Accelerated stability studies 701-2,

711-13 Acid determination 540-1 Acid value determination 53ir-8 Acid-insoluble ash determination

525-6 Acne 409-10,417,423-4,434-5 Actuators 381-3 Adverse reactions to cosmetics

629-30,694-6 Advertising 41-2, 4ir-7, 631, 638 Aerosols

antiperspirants 90-3 barrier pack 353 components 378-83 formulations 385-90 hairsprays 279-81 historical aspects 51,53-5 manufacture 383-4 safety 385 see also Pressurized dispensers

Aesthetic evaluation 575-6 Afro-Caribbean hair 258, 271, 284--6 After-bath products 144-8 After-shave products 357-60 After-shower body moisturizers

143-4 After-sun preparations 489-90, 500 Ageing of skin 404-5,410--11,435,

436,470 Alkanolamides 104, 107, 295 All-purpose creams 444-6

Allergie response 687-8, 731, 739-42 Aluminium chlorohydrate 70--1,

79-80, 9ir-7, 356, 388 Aluminium hydroxide 185 Aluminium zirconium chlorohydrate

70--1,79-80,9ir-7 Amino acids

hair 259-63, 264-7 nails 325-6 shampoo additives 300

p-Aminobenzoic acid, sunscreen 481, 486

Ammonium thioglycollate determination 283,543-4

Amphoteric surfactants 105-6, 295-6

Analytical methods chromatography 510--15 classical or instrumental 508-10 creams and lotions 541-3 general methods 521-41 hair treatments 543-6 planning 518-21 spectrophotometry 515-18 toothpastes 54ir-54

Animal testing 61,638-9 Anionic foundation make-up 175-6 Anionic surfactants 102-5,414 Anthraquinone dyes 311 Anti-acne creams 434-5 Anti-cavity

mouthrinses 248 toothpaste 234-8

Antidandruff treatments 301,304-5, 363-6,580-4

Antioxidants 173, 210 Anti-plaque and gingivitis

mouthrinses 249-50 toothpaste 240--1

770 Index

Antiperspirants claims and justifications 74-6 classification of actives 72 definition 71 evaluation 590-5 formulations 80-94,387-8 fragrance 95 historkaI aspecls 55, 70-1 ingredients 72, 78-80 market 69, 77-8, 97 mechanism of action 72 product forms 76-8 regulatory standards 73-·4 staining 95-6 see also Deodorants

Anti-tartar mouthrinses 248-9 toothpaste 238-9

Apocrine glands 72, 400, 584 Apothecaries 30, 35 Arabian cosmetic history 27-8 Aromatherapy

bath oils 118 historkal aspects 754-5 psychological benefits 762-4 see also Psychology of fragrance

Artificial tanning 489, 499-500, 573 Ash determination 525-6 AstTingency 356, 423 Atomic absorption spectrophotometry

526-8 ATP bioluminescence 682 Auto-oxidative haif colourants 32 1-2 Autoclaving 657-8 Automated testing systems 681-2 Avocado oi! 440-1 Axillary odour 72, 584·-90 Azo dyes 311

Baby products 137-40,305,496-7 Bacteria 72,400,653-4,656-7,

665-8 Baldness 360-1,366 Bahns, after-shave 359-60 Bar soap 457 BaITier creams 446-50 BaITier packs, aerosol 353 Base determination 540-1 Haseline assessment 559,562 Hath crystals 126-7, 129-30 Bath cubes 125-6, 128-9

Bath oils and essences formulations 1 17-24 ingredients 116-17

Bath powders 129-30 Bath products

after-bath products 144-8 bath oils and essences 116-24 bath salts, cubes and crysta]s

124-30 bubble bath products 102-16 shower products and body shampoos

130-44 Bath salts 124·-8 Bathing, history 25-6,36, 101 Bathochromic shift 487-8 Bentonite 661 Benzophenones, sunscreen 482 Betaines

amphoterks 296 bubble bath 105-6

Bi-compartmental aerosols 389-90 Biblical CDsmetics 19-20 Binders 182-3, 186 Biology, skin 393-405 Bioluminescence 682 Bismuth oxychloride 157-8, 193,

334-5 BJeaching 313-14,328--9 Blooming halh oils 120-2 Blushers (rouges) 45, 189-92 Body lotion 441-6 Body scrubs 141-3 Body shampoos 130-1, 134-·7 Brilliantines 281-2,366-8 Bromate determination 545-6 Bronzing powders 191-2 HrushJess shave cream 354-5 BSE 455,456 Bubble bath

definition 102 fomn testing 115-16 formulations 108-] 5 ingredients 102-8

Bulk sampling 519-20 Butane 379

Cake foundation make-up 174 Cake mascara 200 Calcium carbonate 169, 226 Camphor/camphor derivatives 333,

482

Cancer s~n 56,468,470,572 systemic toxieity 689

Canerow 286 Capillary columns 531 Caries, dental 221-2 Carmine 152, 160 Carrageenan 229 Castor oil 206,333,462 Cationic liquid foundation make-up

177-8 Caustic lye hair straightener 284-5 Cell diagram 396 Cellulose ethers 107 Ceramides 300 Challenge testing 664-71 Charge stabilization, emulsions 606-9 Chemistry, historieal aspects 38, 42-4 Children 753-4, 764 China and cosmetics 29 Chlorhexidene 240 Chromatographic methods 510-15 Chypre fragrances 347-8 Cinnamates, sunscreen 481 Classieal analytieal methods 508-10 Classification

antiperspirant actives 72 chromatographie methods 511-13 fragrances 347 hair colourants 308-9 microorganisms 652-3 moisturizers 429 odours 57-8 shampoos 290 s~n types 406-7,473

Cleansing hair 290-2, 574-5 s~n 411-23

Clear bubble baths 109-11 Climbazole 364-5 Coated pigments 160-1, 172-3 COLIPA 636, 650 COLIPA SPF Test Method 56, 474, 570 Colour Index (C I) 152, 153

CI numbers 64, 189,209,210,636 Colour matching 163-5 Colourants, hair see Hair colourants Colouring materials

Colour Index 152 colour matching 163-5 dyes 151-2

Index 771

natural colours 152 pigments 152-61 treated pigments 161-3

Colours bath salts and crystals 127-8 face powders 172, 179 lip products 209-10 nail enamel 334 regulations 66, 151,636 toothpaste 230-1 two-way foundation make-up 186

Combination bars 464 Comedogenicity 409-10 Compact face powder 181, 182-4 Complaints 695-6, 743-4 Complex emulsions 602,617-18 Compressed gases, propellants 379 Concentrated aerosol formulation 93 Conditioners, hair 273-8, 303-4,

365-6 Conditioning shower products 134-7 Consent-forms 730 Consumers

perfumes 728-31 testing 694-5

Containers, aerosols 379-80 Contamination prevention 660-4,

671-4 Controls, stability tests 708-9 Cosmetic definitions 626-7,632-3,640 Cosmetic Ingredient Review Program

630 Cosmetics Directives see EC Cosmetics

Directives Costing, perfume 723-4 rn-Couplers, dyes 317-19 Cream

all-purpose 444-6 analysis 541-3 anti-acne 434-5 antiperspirant 80-1 barrier 446-50 cleansing 419-20 cuticle 326-7 day 429-31,433-4 lather shaving 350-1 naiJ white 328-9 night 439-41 shower 140-1

Cream bubble baths 111-14 Cream eye shadow 197-8

772 Index

Cream mascara 200-2 Creaming of emulsions 605-6, 705 Crimping, pressurized dispensers 384 Cuticle 326-8 Cycling stability tests 701, 704 Cysteine 260, 262, 265-6 Cystine 260,262,264-5

Dandruff 301,304-5,363-6,580-4 Day preparations 429-35 Dean and Stark distillation 522-3 Defoaming, bubble bath 116 Demipermanent hair colourants

3l3-14 Dental calculus 223

see also Tartar Dental caries 221-2 Dental hygiene

European legistative framework 218-19

market 217-18, 250-1 mouthrinses 246-50,250-1 physiology of teeth 219-23 toothpaste 223---46, 250

Dentifrice see Toothpaste Dentine 220 Deodorants

active ingredients 96-7 apocrine glands 72, 96 definition 71 evaluation 584-90 historical aspects 55 mode of action 96 product forms 76-8 see also Antiperspirants

Deoperspirants 96 Deosprays 388 Dermatitis 403 Dermis 399---401,471 Detergent bars 464 Detergents, shampoos 294-6 Dibenzoylmethanes 482 Dibutyl phthalate 333 Dicalcium phosphate dihydrate 226 Diluents, sunscreens 487-8 Dispersible bath oils 120-2 Dispersion of pigments 180, 194 Distillation, Dean and Stark 522-3 Disulfide bonds 262, 271, 284 Double-blind tests 558 Dry heat sterilization 658

Dry shaving preparations 355-6 Dry skin 407-8,427-8,561-3 Dual-chamber packaging, toothpaste

237,242-3,250 Dyes

definition 151 Eosin 152,211 history 52 see also Hair colourants

EC Cosmetics Directives 73, 74-6, 218-19,234,632

Eccrine sweat glands 71,400,590 Efficacy testing

deodorants and antiperspirants 73---4, 584-95

ethical considerations 556-7 hair-care products 573-84 human volunteer panels 555-6,

558-61 preservatives 664-71 skin-care products 561-73 study design 557-61

Egyptian cosmetic history 14-19, 192

Elasticity, skin 565-6 Electrical properties of skin 567-8 Electromagnetic radiation 468-70,516 Elizabeth I 32, 33---4 Embalming 17-18 Emollients 117,427,487-8 Emulsifiers 603---4,607-9,611-18 Emulsion cleansers 419-23 Emulsions

definition 602 formation 602---4 hydrophilic-lipophilic balance

611-15 instability 604-6, 705 manufacture 619-20 market 601-2 nonionic emulsifiers 609-10,

611-18 properties 621-2 rheology 622-3 stabilization 606-11 types 602

Enamel nail 330-40 tooth 219-20

Environmental fragrances 761-2

Eosin dyes 152,211 Epidennis 395-9,471 Essences, bath 116-24 Essential fatty acids 436 Essential oils, historical aspects 35, 41,

47 Ester value detennination 536-8 Ethical considerations 556-7,724-5,

729-31 Ethnic cosmetic products 258,271,

284-6,403-4 Eumelanin 256, 307-8 European Union legislation 66, 73-6,

631-9,650-2 Evaluation

aesthetic 575-6 deodorants and antiperspirants

584-95 hair conditioners 277-8 hair products 272-3 hair-care products 573-84 perfume 760 perfumes 725-8, 731-4 safety 689 skin preparations 401 skin-care products 561-73 sunscreen 570-2 toxicity 734-44 see also Efficacy testing

Evening primrose oil 436, 437-8 Examination schedules, stability tests

709-11 Exfoliating products 141-3,417-18,

572-3 Extenders, nail 340 Eyes

irritation 687, 738-9 liners 203-4 paints 15 pencils 204-5 shadows 192-9

Face powders 49, 178-84 characteristics 178-9 compact 181, 182-4 history 49 loose 178-9,181 manufacture 180-1

Facial make-up blushers (rouges) 45,189-92 cIeansers 414-15

face powders 178-84 foundation 173-8 ingredients 168-73

Index 773

quality control 187-9 two-way foundation 184-7

Fatty acid detennination 537-8,541-3 'Feel-good' factor, fragrance 765 Film-fonners 200-2, 332-3 Flavours, toothpaste 230 Floating bath oils 117-19 Fluid emulsions 421-3 Fluorescent pigments 156 Fluoride, dental hygiene 234-8, 595 Fluoride/fluorine detennination 551-4 'Fly-away' hair 269, 275 Foam

shampoos 292-3 stabilizers 106-7 testing 1 1 5-1 6

Foam products after-shave 358-9 shaving 352-3, 388-9

Foaming agents 102-6 Fonnulations

aerosols 385-91 after-bath products 145-8 after-shave products 357-60 antiperspirants 80-94, 387-8 bath oils and essences II 8-24 bath salts and crystals 127-30 bubble baths 108-15 dental hygiene 231-2,234-46,

248-50 eye shadow 192-4, 197-9 face powders 181, 183-4 hair conditioners 274-7 hair dyes 309-10,312,319-20 lip products 211-13,214-16 liquid foundation make-up 174-8 men's hair care products 360-74 nail enamel 332, 335-6 nomencIature 66 post-cIeansing products 427-50 pressurized dispensers 385-91 shaving products 350-6, 388-90 shower products 132-44 skin cleansing products 411-23 skin toners 423-6 sunscreens 491-500 two-way powder foundation 187 water 66-7

774 Index

Fougere fragrances 347-8 Foundation make-up 173-8 Fragrance

antiperspirants 95 bubble bath 108 children 753-4, 764 classification 347 environmental 761-2 evaluation 595-6, 760 face powders 173 men's toiletries 346--8,751,752,

755-6 psychology 749-66 soap 459-60,461 supplier briefing 718-21 see also Perfumes

Free radical scavengers 488-9, 573 Freeze-thaw stability tests 701, 704 Frequent wash shampoos 303 Fresheners, skin 423-6 Friction, skin 564-5 Fun-type fragranced products 754 Fungi 654-5

Gas chromatography 513,530-3 Gel, styling 279 Gel permeation chromatography 513 Gelling agents, dental hygiene 228-9 Gels

after-bath body 146-8 after-shave 357-8 baby shower 137-40 bubble bath 109-14 clear antiperspirant 94 exfoliating shower 141-3 hair setting 372-3 post-foaming 353-4 shaving 389-90 shower 132-4 skin toning 425-6 sunscreen 491-3

Gingivitis 240-1,249-50 Glassware 508-9,664 Glitters 156 Glycerin 228, 276 Glycerol determination 547-8 Good Manufacturing Practice 631,

638,644,660,671-4 Gradual hair colourants 321-2 Gravimetrie methods 508, 590 Greasiness, hair 576--9

Greek cosmetic history 21-4 Guanine 334-5 Gum disease 222

Hair characteristics 272-3 chemistry 259-67 cleansing 290-2, 574-5 conditioners 273-8 fashion 34,36--7, 39-40,46,52-3 fibres 257, 261-3, 267-70, 309 greasiness 576--9 growth 258,349,360-2,366 loss 360-1, 366 lotions and tonics 360-5 natural pigmentation 307-8 physical properties 267-71 physiology 255 straightening 270-1,284-6 strength 579 structure 255-8, 309 styling products 278-9 waving 270-1,282-4

Hair colourants classification 308-9 demipermanent 313-14 gradual 321-2 history 52 natural 322-3 oxidative dyeing systems 313-21 permanent 313-21 semipermanent 310-12 temporary 310 see also Hair

Hair treatments, analysis 543-6 Hair-care products, evaluation 573-84 Hairdressings 281-2, 366--72 Hairsprays 279-81, 386--7 'Halo' effects 732-3 Hand lotions 441-8 Handwashes 464-5 Hazard Analysis Critical Control Point

(HACCP) 651,673,680 Hazard determination 686--92 Health and Safety Executive (HSE), risk

assessment 519 Henna 15-16, 19 Hexachlorophane 662 High-performance liquid

chromatog-raphy 513-14, 533-6, 548-9,554

History of cosmetics prehistory 13-16 3000 BC-AD 200 16-21 Europe from 2000 BC 21-7 AD 600-900 27-8 AD 900-1200 28-9 AD 1200-1500 29-30 sixteenth century 30-5 seventeenth century 35-8 eighteenth century 38-43 nineteenth century 43-8 twentieth century 48-61,751-2 aromatherapy psychology 754-5 fragrance psychology 750-4 industry 48,50-1,59-61 literature 26-7,34-5,38,47-8 perfumery 37-8,40-1,47,57-9,

347-8, 750-2 HPLC see High-performance liquid

chromatography Human volunteers 555-6,558-61,

691-2, 729-31 Humectants 228,276,427,488 Humidity stability tests 701, 703-4 'Hurdle Technology' 659-60 Hydrated alumina 226 Hydrogen bonds 263 Hydrogen peroxide determination

545-6 Hydrophilic-lipophilic balance 611-15 Hydrophobicity, pigments 161-3 Hydroxy acids 436 p-Hydroxybenzoates 662 Hygiene 659,671-4 Hygrometry 593-4 Hypoallergenic preparations 333 Hypochromic shift 487-8

In vitra testing methods 691 Incense 16-17 Indian cosmetic history 21,27 Industrial Revolution 43 Infant skin 404 Infrared spectrophotometry 516-17 Ingredient labelling legislation 628-9,

635-6 Ingredient safety 686-93 Inhalation toxicity 737 Inoculum preparation 656-7,666 Inorganic pigments 154-5 Inorganic sunscreen 483-5, 498

Index 775

Inspection authorities 630,637-8 Instability of emulsions 604-6, 705 Instrumental analytical methods

508-10 Interfacial film strengthening 609-11 International Nomenclature for Cosmetic

Ingredients (INCI) 66, 629 Iodopropynyl buty1carbamate (IPBC)

663 Ion exchange chromatography 512 Irritation 686-7,692

Japanese legislation 625, 639-45 Jewish cosmetic history 19-20 Jojoba oil 443

Kaolin 168-9,661 Kemwall press 181, 196-7 Keratin 259,261-70,325,567 Keratinization 396-8 Kettle boiling, soap 456 Kohl 15, 18,21,26, 192

Labelling legislation 66, 627-9, 633-6, 641

Lakes 153,189,209-10 Lanolin 326-8 Lather shaving

cream 350-1 sticks 351-2

Legal authorities 626,631-2,640 Legislation and safety regulations

European Union 73, 74-6, 625, 631-9,650-2

historical aspects 59-60 Japan 625,639-45 United States 73-4,625,626-31

Light stability tests 702,704-5,710 Lip products

formulations 211-13,214-16 historical aspects 49-50 lipglosses 214-15 lipliners 216 lipsticks 152,211-14 raw materials 206-11 technical requirements 205-6

Lipid determination 528-30 Liposomes 437-8 Liquid products

blushers 190 bubble bath 109-14 eye liner 204

776 Index

Liquid products - continued foundation make-up 174-8 soaps 416-17,464-5 see also Lotions

London-van der Waals forces, emulsion theory 604-5

Loose face powders 178-9,181 Lotions

after-bath body 146-8 after-shave 357 analysis 541-3 antidandruff 363-5 astringent 423-4 body 441--6 cleansing 421-3 exfoliating 417-18 hair 360-2 hand 441-8

Magnesium carbonate 169 Main detergents see Detergents Manicure preparations see Nails Manufacture

contamination prevention 663-4, 671-4

emulsions 619-20 face powder 180-1 lipsticks 213-14 mouthrinses 248 nail enamel 336-7 perfume and consumer products

717-48 pressed-powder eyeshadow 194-7 pressurized dispensers 383-4 soap 454-9 toothpaste 232-4

Markets antiperspirants and deodorants 69,

77-8,97 dental hygiene 217-18,250-1 emulsions 601-2 pressurized dispensers 378 sunscreens 490-1

Mary, Queen of Scots 32, 34 Mascara 199-203 Matching

colours 163-5 perfumes 724-5

Mechanical properties of skin 564-7 Mechanical scrub technique 586 Mechanical stability tests 702, 705

Medici, Catherine de 31, 35 Medicinal plants 28 Melanin 256, 307, 403-4 Melting point determination 521 Men's toiletries

after-shave products 357--60 fragrances 346-8 hair-care preparations 360-74 industry 345--6,374-5 psychology of fragrance 751,752-3,

755--6 shaving products 348-56

Meta! ion determination 525-8 Metallic soaps 169-70 Meter method, evaluation 577-8 Methylchloroisothioazolinone 663 Methylisothioazolinone 663 Mica 158--60, 161, 171, 185 Micelles 103, 291-2 Microbial Quality Management (MQM)

66-7,650-1,660 Microbiology

challenge testing 664-71 contamination prevention 671-4 equipment for testing 681-3 laboratory control methods 674-7,

680-1 laboratory techniques 656-9 microbial growth 647-8, 655--6 microorganisms, types 652-5 prevention of microbial growth

659--64 total viable counts (TVCs) 677-80

Microcapsules 437 Microemulsions 618 Micronized plastics, face powders

171 Milks 421-3,431,444-6 Mineral oil 116-17 Minimum erythemal dose (MED)

475--6,571 Minoxidil 366 Modified starches 170-1 Moisturizers

additives 435-8 classification 429 day preparations 429-35 lip products 210-11 night preparations 438-41 requirements 429 skin-care 411

Monofluorophosphate detennination 551-4

'The Monograph' , antiperspirants 73-4,96

Mood, effects of fragrance 759-61 Moulds 654-5,657,668 Mousse, hair 278-9, 373-4, 387 Mouthrinses 246-50,250-1 Mucous membrane irritation 687,

738-9 Multiple emulsions 617-18 Mummification 17-18 Myelenesis 291-2 Myrrh 20

Nails bleaches 328-9 care 325, 327 cuticle 326-8 enamel 330-40 extenders 340 historical aspects 48 powders 329-30 structure 325-6 white edging cream 328-9

Natural colours 152 hair dyes 322-3 hair pigmentation 307-8 moisturizing factor (NMF) 397 products 61,431-4

Near-infrared analysis 510 Netde rash 688 Neutral fatty matter detennination

541-3 Newbom skin 404 Night preparations 438-41 2-Nitro-p-phenylenediamine dyes

311-12 o-Nitroaniline dyes 311 Nitrocellulose 330-5 NMR see Nuclear magnetic resonance

spectroscopy Nonionic emulsifiers 609-10,611-18 Non-separative methods 510-11 Nonionic surfactants 106 Nourishing preparations see

Moisturizers Novelty products

bath oils 124 bubble baths 114-15

Index 777

Nuclear magnetic resonance spectrophotometry 510, 517-18

Nut oils 455

Octocrylene, sunscreen 482 Ocular toxicity 738-9 Odours

axillary 73, 584-90 classification 57-8 social functions 755-7 see also Fragranees, Perfumes

Oil-in-water emulsions 602, 605-6, 608,661

Oils avocado 440-1 bath 116-24 castor 462 evening primrose 436, 437-8 jojoba 443 nut 455 shaving 355 skin 408-10,417-18 sunscreen 493-4 two-way foundation make-up 186

Olfactory assessment 587-90 Opto-thennal transient radiometry 570 Oral care industry 217-18,250-1 Oral health problems 221-3 Organic pigments 153-4 Organic sunscreen agents 480-3 Oriental fragrances 347-8 Orientation, perfume 719 Oxidative dyeing systems, hair 313-21

Packaging contamination prevention 664 stability testing 710-11 standards 638

Panthenol 300 Partition separation 511 Patch tests 644,691,738-9,742-3 Peak area detennination 515 Pearlescent pigments (pearls) 156-60,

193 Pearlizers 296,334-6,416 Pellicle 222 Peptide linkages 261 Perfumes

consumer acceptance 728-31 cost 723-4 evaluation techniques 731-4

778 Index

Perfumes - continued fragrance supplier briefing 718-21 history 37-8,40--1,47,57-9,

347-8, 750--2 matching 724-5 preparation time 721-3 purchasing considerations 744-7 safety-in-use prediction 734-44 selection and evaluation 725-8 social functions 755-7 see also Fragrances

Periodontal disease 222 Permanent hair colourants 313-21 Permanent sets, hair 270--1, 282-6 Permeability, skin 402 Personal hygiene 674 pR determination 523-4 pR modifiers, shampoos 297 Pheomelanin 256, 307-8 Photo-ageing, skin 404-5 Photo-irritation 688,741 Photo-sensitisation 741 Photoallergy 688 Photography 563 Photostability, sunscreen 485, 490--1 Pigments

blushers 189 coated 160--1,172-3 definition 152 dispersion 180, 194 fluorescent 156 inorganic 154-5, 172, 186 lip products 209-10 mascaras 201 organic 153-4 pearlescent 156-60 speciality 156 treated 161-3, 172-3

Pilot batch stability testing 706 Pipettes 509 Piroctone olamine 301,305,364-5 Plant extracts, skin-care products

432-4 Plaque 222-3,240--1,249-50,595 Plasticizers, nail enamel 333-4 Point indentation 566-7 Poison centre notification 638 Polymeric emulsifier systems 616-17 Polyquaterniums 297-9 Pomades 282,367-8 Post-cleansing products, skin 427-50

Post-foaming gels 353-4 Post-shampoo hair-care products

272-82 Poucher, W. A.

career 3-4, 10 first edition of book 4-7 interests 10--11 quotations 4,5,6,7, 10 second to ninth editions of book 7 tenth edition of book 8-9

Powder after-shave 360 bath 115, 129-30 face 49,178-84 talcum 144-6

Pre-electric shave lotion 356 Premium shampoos 304 Preservation, face powders 173 Preservatives

agents 662-3 bubble bath 108 efficacyresting 664-71,710 Hp products 210 shampoos 296-7

Pressed powder eye shadow 193-7 Pressing machines 181, 195-7 Pressurized dispensers

components 378-83 definition 377 formulations 385-90 history 51,53-5,377-8 manufacture 383-4 market 378 materials 390--1 product development 384-5 safety 385

Principal Display Panel 627 Product Information Package (PIP) 9,

636-7,650,651,681,690 Production batch stability testing 706-7 Profile method, evaluation 575-6 Propellants 379 Protective products, skin 446-50 Proteins 261-3, 300 Psycho-group, fragrances 751-2 Psychology of fragrance

aromatherapy 754-5, 762-4 developments 764-6 historical aspects 750-4 motivation for use/choice 755-7 psychological benefits 757-64

Psychometrie evaluation, hair-care products 272

Pump antiperspirants 88-90 Pyrophosphate determination 549-50

'Qualified Person' 637 Quality assurance 518 Quality control

eye shadow 194-5 face powder 187-9

Quantitative analysis 515 Quantum sufficit 67 Quasi-drugs 640-1 Questionnaires 559-60, 695 Quick-breaking after-shave foam 358

Racial skin types 403--4 Radiation

infrared 516-17 ultraviolet 468-73,516,570-2,688 visible 516

Ranking method, evaluation 578 Raw materials, perfumes 745-6 Registration legislation 629, 636,

641-3 Regulations

advertising 631,638 analytical methods 518 antiperspirants and deodorants 73-6 colours 66, 151 historical aspects 59-60 see also Legislation and safety

regulations Removers

cuticle 327-8 nail enamel 338--40

Resin, nail enamel 330, 332-3 Resolution, chromatography 514-15 Restorers, hair colour 372 Restricted materials 630, 643--4 Retinoids 435 'Reversed phase' liquid chromatography

535,536 Rheology

emulsions 622-3 nail polish 335 sunscreens 488,498-9

Rinse-off emulsions 419-21 Risk assessment 519,692--4 Roll-on antiperspirants 85-8 Roman cosmetics 24-7

Index 779

Ross-Miles foaming apparatus 115, 292-3

Rouges (b1ushers) 45, 189-92

Safety aerosols 385 evaluation 689 hazard determination 686-92 monitoring human usage 694-6 perfumes 734-44 pressurized dispensers 385 risk assessment 692--4

Safety Assurance 745 Safety regulations see Legislation and

safety regulations Safety substantiation 630, 644 Safety-in-use, perfumes 734-44 Safety-monitoring period 643 Salicylates, sunscreen 482 Sampling

analysis 519-20 bulk 519-20 microbial control 675

Saponification value determination 536-8

Sarcosinates 105 Scanning electron microscopy 563 Screening tests, analysis 520-1 Sebaceous glands 408-9 Seborrhoea 363 Sebum 290-2,301-2,345,408-9,

574-5 Sedimentation 605-6 Semipermanent hair colourants 310-12 Sensitivity, toothpastes 245-6 Sensitization 687-8,691-2,731,

739--42 Sensory receptors, skin 400-1 Separative methods 510-11 Sequestering agents 108 Serial dilution 657 Sericite 185 Set, hair 269-71 Sexual attraction, perfume 755-7,

764-5 Shampoos

action on hair 290-2 additives 296-301 antidandruff 301, 304-5, 365-6 classification 290 conditioning 365-6

780 Index

Shampoos - continued detergents 294--6 early 6 evaluation 576-7 foaming 292-3 formulations 303-5 fragrance 759 ingredients 293-301 preparation 302-3 requirements 289

Shaving 51-2,348-50 Shaving products 350--6, 460--1 Shelf-life 697-8,711-13,722 'Shitei Seibun' ingredients 641 'Shonin' applications 642 Shower products and body shampoos

formulations 132-44 ingredients 131-2

Silica, dental hygiene 225-6 Silicone copolyol emulsifiers 616-17 Silicone surfactants 299 Silicones 414 Size exclusion chromatography 513 Skin

biology 393-405 cancer 56,468,470,572 care 405-11 classification 406-7,473 damage 402-3,472 dry 407-8,427-8,561-3 electrical properties 567-8 function 394 irritation 686-7,692,738-9 male/female differences 345 mechanical properties 564-7 morphology 561-4 oily 408-10,417-18 permeability 402 sensitization 687-8,691-2 stinging 75, 688, 739 structure 394-402 UV interaction 470--3 see also Skin preparations

Skin preparations additives 435-8 cleansing products 411-23 post-cleansing products 427-50 toners 423-6

Skin-care products, evaluation 561-73 Soap

bars 457

chemistry 453, 454 detergentlcombination bars 464 drawbacks 411 historical aspects 26, 36, 43, 48,

453-4 liquid soaps and handwashes

416-17,464-5 manufacture 454-9 perfume and additives 459-60,461,

759 related products 460-4

Sodium bicarbonate 125,226 Sodium borate 126 Sodium carbonate 125, 128 Sodium chloride 126 Sodium cocoyl isethionate 131 Sodium lauryl ether sulfate 103-4,

106, 108, 131 Sodium lauryl sulfate 103-4,227 Sodium monofluorophosphate

234--6 Sodium phosphate 125-6 Sodium sesquicarbonate 125 Soft solid antiperspirants 93-4 Softness, skin 566-7 Solid antiperspirants 82-5, 93-4 Soluble bath oils 122-3 Soluble/insoluble component separation

546-7 Solvent extraction 528-30 Solvents

HPLC 534--6 nail enamel 331

Sorbitol determination 547-9 Sparkles, toothpaste 231 Speciality pigments 156 Spectrophotometric methods 515-18 Spherical powders 185 Spot tests 521 Spreading bath oils 117-19 Squeeze spray antiperspirants 81-2 Stability testing

acceleration of changes 701-2, 711-13

controls 708-9 examination schedules 709-11 planning 707-8 recording results 711 specific objectives 700 test conditions 702-5 test sampIes 705-7

Stabilization emulsions 606--11 foams 106--7

Staining, antiperspirants 95-6 Starches 170-1 Stereotypes 750 Sterile disposable consumables 658,

683 Sterilization 657-9,672 Stick antiperspirants 82-5 Sticks

eye shadow 198-9 sunscreen 493

Stinging 75, 688, 739 Stokes' Law, emulsion theory 605-{) Straightening, hair 270-1,284-U Stratum comeum 398, 402 Structure-activity relationships 690 Styling products, hair 278-9 Substantiation 630, 644 Sulfates 103-4 Sulfonates 105 Sulfosuccinates 104 Sulfur 363-4 Sulphosuccinates 294 Sulphur see Sulfur Sumerian cosmetics 19 Sun damage, skin 468-72 Sun protection factors (SPFs) 474-8,

570-1 Sunbum 56,470,472 Sunscreens

choice of product 473-4 evaluation 570-2 formulations 491-500 historical aspects 55-{) ingredients 480-91 market 490-1 requirements 480 sun-induced skin damage 468-72 testing 474-80

Suntan 55-{),467-8,472,473,489 Surfactants

bath oils and essences 116 bubble bath 102-{), 108 dental hygiene 227 dry skin 407-8 emulsion theory 603-4 shampoos 297-9

Surfometry 563-4 Sweat glands 71-2,400

Index 781

Sweating 590-1,593 Sweetening agents 229-30 Syndet bars 412-13 Synthetic detergent-based c1eansers

(syndets) 411-17 Systemic

hazards 688-9,693 toxicity of perfumes 734-7

Tactile property description 401 Tale 144-U, 168, 185, 193,661 Taleum powder 144-U, 168 Tallow, soap 455 Tanning 55-{),467-8,472,473,489 Tartar 223,238-9,248-9 Teeth 48,219-23

see also Dental hygiene Temperature stability testing 701,

702-3, 712 Temporary hair colourants 310 Temporary sets, hair 270-1 Test marketing 733-4 Testing see Animal testing;

Efficacy testing Theatrical make-up 34 Thermography 594 Thickeners

bubble bath \06--7 dyeing systems 320-1 shampoos 296

Thin-Iayer chromatography 511 Thioglycollate hair straighteners

285-{) Thioglycollic acid determination

543-4 Thixotropy 622-3 Thran Spray Gun 586 Three-phase complex emulsions 602,

617-18 Titanium dioxide

inorganic pigments ISS pearlescent pigments 158-9, 160 sunscreen 483-5, 490

'Todokede' applications 642-3 Toners

organic pigments 153 skin 411, 423-{)

Tonics, hair 360-5 Tooth decay 221-2 Tooth enamel 219-20 Tooth powders 224

782 Index

Toothpaste analysis 546-54 formulation 231-2,234-46 ingredients 225-31 manufacture 232-4 requirements 223-5

Topical hazards 686-8, 692 Topical toxicity 737-44 Total viability counts (TVCs) 676-80 Towelettes, c1eansing 416 Toxicity evaluation 689, 734-44 Toxicological test data 690--2 Trade secrets 746-7 Transepidermal water loss 568-70 Translucent soaps 461 Transparent soaps 462-4 Treated pigments 161-3, 172-3 Triangulation 515 Tric10san 240--1,250,388,662 True organic pigments 154 Two-phase emulsion formation 602-3 1\vo-way foundation make-up 184-7 Type cultures 656, 664-5

Ultraviolet absorption, nail enamel 335 Ultraviolet protection, lip products 211 Ultraviolet radiation, skin 468-80,

570--2,688 Ultraviolet spectrophotometry 516 Underarm products

active ingredients 72, 78-80, 96-7 produet forms 76-8 staining 95-6 see also Antiperspirants, Deodorants

U nguents 22, 25 Unisex fragrances 752,753 United States legislation 73-4,626-31 Unsaponifiable matter determination

539-40 Urticarial response 688 UVA/UVB protection ratio 571

Valves, pressurized dispensers 381-3 Velvet replipad technique 585-6

Ve-Tra-Co powder press 181, 196-7 Viruses 653 Viscosity 106-7, 131,622-3 Visible speetrophotometry 516 Visual exarnination of material 520 Vitamins 435, 489-90 Volatile organic compounds 76, 93 Volatilelnon-volatile matter

determination 521-2 Volumetrie analysis 508-9

Walnut flour 171 Water

loss through skin 568-70, 590, 594

microbial contarnination 66-7,672 routine testing 675

Water content determination 521-3 hair 268

Water-based nail enamel 335 Water-in-oil emulsions 602,605-6,

661 Water-in-silicone foundation make-up

176-7 Water-soluble polyquaterniums 297-9 Waterproof mascara 202-3 Waterproofing agents, sunscreens

486-7,497-8 Waving, hair 270--1, 282-4 Wax-based blushers 190 Waxes, lip products 207-9 Whitening, toothpaste 242-4 Wigs 18,36-7,39-40 Wipes, c1eansing 416 Women's fragrances, psychology

751-2, 760, 764-5 Wrinkles, use of pigments 161

Yeasts 580,655,656-7

Zinc oxide 169,483-4,490 Zinc pyridine thiol-N-oxide 365 Zine pyrithione 301,305,581