IN VINO CARITAS

TheWineForumBenevolence Dinner

22 January 2015 Hotel Grischa

Davos, Switzerland

Contents Welcome to

Welcome to The Wine Forum 1

Biographies 2

The Châteaux 4

Menu 14

Tasting Notes 16

Permanent Sponsor/Featured Charity 18

For Your Notes 20

The Wine Forum22 January 2015

We are delighted to welcome you to The Wine Forum’s Benevolence Dinner. This year we are very fortunate and grateful to enjoy superlative wines from iconic brands: Krug, Cheval Blanc, and Yquem. These wines exemplify a heady blend of exceptional terroir, meticulous precision, and winemaking genius. Put together, this means we, the consumers, are able to touch “perfection.”

At The Wine Forum, our members believe that very rare and precious factors contribute to perfect wines. The finest wines are made from land with special minerals, contours, and microclimates. Further, they are made by people who engage their talents and creativity so others may enjoy. And we express this deep appreciation by raising awareness and giving to causes where intense human effort and creativity combine to relieve those less fortunate. Wine Forum members support over 100 charities by donating their time, resources, and funds. At tonight’s dinner we will hear more about one of these, Internews—an organisation that is at the forefront of Press Freedom, Human Rights, and Media Development.

Our dinner tonight has been prepared to exacting standards by Chef Kurt Jaussi who has carefully designed his menu around the wines we will sample. We are delighted that Pierre Lurton will guide us through a spectacular range of vintages of Château Cheval Blanc and Château d’Yquem. Pierre, who manages both estates, will transport us “to the vineyards” by his words. The wines will transport us somewhere else entirely.

Enjoy!

Vidhi Tambiah Co-founder The Wine Forum

David Spreng Co-founder The Wine Forum

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Biographies

Pierre Lurton was appointed Managing Director of Château Cheval Blanc at the age of 34, in 1998 when Bernard Arnault and Albert Frère acquired Château Cheval Blanc from the Fourcault-Laussac family. In 2004, he was appointed President of Château d’Yquem. Additionally, he is President of Cheval des Andes in Argentina, a joint venture between Bodega de Chandon (part of LVMH group’s Chandon vineyards) and Cheval Blanc. Last, but not least, he created and developed his own vineyard in the Entre-Deux-Mers, Château Marjosse. Pierre has an old boat, and dreams of competing in the America’s Cup. He is also a keen horseman and appreciates riding as much in the Andes Cordillera as the Entre-Deux-Mers.

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The Châteaux

KRUGThe House of Krug story illustrates the amazing adventure of Joseph Krug—an industry visionary.

He was a nonconformist with an uncompromising philosophy who understood that Champagne’s essence is pleasure itself. He wanted to offer his clients a definitive experience of pleasure in Champagne every year, regardless of climatic variations. By respecting the individuality of every plot as the principle of quality and establishing an extensive library of reserve wines, Joseph Krug founded the first and only Champagne house to exclusively create what are today called “prestige cuvées.” His vision and savoir-faire have been perpetuated and enriched since 1843 by six generations of the Krug family.

Krug is the only Champagne house to offer five prestige cuvées, each of which is different and of equal, undisputed quality and distinction. Each cuvée is designed to illustrate a particular interpretation of nature, offering an incomparable experience. Each of their Champagnes is made with generosity and love—to overwhelm the senses with exceptional pleasure.

Krug invites you to enjoy a rare sensory journey comprising a very rare and pure expression of Chardonnay in the Clos du Mesnil 2000, a sensational vintage experience in Krug 2000, the peak of generosity through the fullest and finest expression of Champagne in Krug Grande Cuvée. We will also experience a completely reinvented Rosé Universe with Krug Rosé and finish with Krug Collection 1989 to give you an ultimate moment of pleasure driven by vintage Krug’s beautiful aging capacity and the effect of time.

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Château Cheval Blanc1

From Figeac to Cheval Blanc

Although the origins of the name, Cheval Blanc, are difficult to determine, the history behind more tangible components of the estate are not so reticent. It was in 1832 that the first part of what was to become Cheval Blanc was acquired by the Ducasse family from the Figeac estate, at that time owned by Countess Félicité de Carle-Trajet. The Countess sold off portions of her estate to a number of buyers, and the Ducasse family took more vineyard in 1838, augmenting their earlier purchase. In 1852, Mlle Henriette Ducasse married Jean Laussac-Fourcaud, and her dowry included their recently acquired vineyards. These were of high quality, and included two of the five gravel mounds that run through Figeac and Cheval Blanc, part of the gravelly terroir that also touches near-neighbour Petrus, in Pomerol. Laussac-Fourcaud further augmented the estate over the coming years, purchasing a number of plots, and by 1871, the property was spread over 41 hectares, as it is today. Unlike many Bordeaux châteaux, Cheval Blanc avoided the usual roller-coaster ride through Phylloxera and economic depression; times were very hard, but the property was well-kept by the Laussac-Fourcaud family, who were responsible for many significant developments on the estate, and held tenure until the closing of the 20th century.

History has it that Laussac-Fourcaud began the renovations at the estate and commenced

the building of the château within a few years of acquiring the first section of vineyard. An attractive two-storey affair, the property was completed around 1860, and today it is complemented by a more recently built chai, as well as a small chapel and an orangery. As for the vineyard, the most notable development here was the installation of an effective network of field drains, preventing the flooding which up until that point had plagued the vines; this was the first St. Emilion estate to be blessed with such a system. With such attention to the vineyard it is perhaps inevitable that the quality of the wine would increase, yet during the early years the Laussac-Fourcaud family continued to sell their wine under the Figeac label; it was years before they began to market it as Cheval Blanc.

The Arrival of Cheval Blanc

When the Laussac-Fourcaud family finally began to release the wine under their own label, it turned out to be a great success, picking up medals (reproductions of which can be seen printed on the label today) in the London and Paris International Exhibitions in 1862 and 1867. The family’s fortune was secured, and in 1893 when Jean died his son, Albert, inherited an estate in a healthy condition. It was Albert, who subsequently reversed his surname, becoming Albert Fourcaud-Laussac, who steered Cheval Blanc through the great vintages of the late 19th and early 20th centuries, especially the duo of 1899

1. Text adapted from thewinedoctor.com.

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and 1900, and the superb 1921. He also had the business acumen and foresight to convert Cheval Blanc into a Société Civile, ran by his children, so that upon his death in 1927, the family avoided the tax issues and inheritance squabbles that can so easily ruin an otherwise successful vineyard. His descendants continued their tenure through the 20th century, with management of the estate subsequently passing to Jacques Hébrard, the husband of Albert’s granddaughter. In 1998, however, everything changed. Château Cheval Blanc was too big a gem not to attract the attention of big business.

Cheval Blanc was bought under a joint investment from LVMH, the luxury goods group headed up by Bernard Arnault, and

from Belgium’s richest businessman Albert Frère. They installed Pierre Lurton, Lurton being a name synonymous with Bordeaux, as estate manager; Lurton now divides his time between Cheval Blanc and his other chief property, Yquem.

The Vineyards and Wines

The Cheval Blanc vineyards, and the property itself, border those of Pomerol; Cheval Blanc’s most intimate neighbour is Château L’Evangile, a Pomerol property, which lies just across the road. The vines, which are 57% Cabernet Franc, with the balance mostly Merlot (39%), augmented by a little Cabernet Sauvignon (3%) and Malbec (1%), lie on three principle terroirs: first, a blend of gravel and sand over much of the vineyard; secondly, a

large area of sand and clay over a compact blue clay; whilst lastly, a smaller proportion of the estate is sandy-clay with iron deposits. The vines are aged over 30 years on average, and there is a conscientious approach to vineyard management. Herbicides are nowhere to be seen, anything other than natural fertiliser is eschewed, and the soil between the rows is ploughed to control weeds and to encourage deep root formation. The vines are harvested typically at 35 hl/ha, assisted by a green harvest during the summer.

As you would imagine with a wine where a second mortgage can be very useful when making a purchase, no expense is spared in handling the fruit and fermentation. There is rigorous selection both in the vineyard and winery, prior to alcoholic fermentation in concrete and stainless steel vats, with each vineyard plot vinified separately. The fruit receives a gentle hydraulic press, and some of the press wine is mixed back into the final blend, the exact percentage obviously varying with the vintage. After malolactic fermentation, the wine goes into oak, naturally 100% new, where in the case of the grand vin, Château Cheval Blanc (typically 6000 cases per annum), it matures for 18 months. The second wine, Le Petit Cheval (typically 2500 cases), will not see such an extended period in oak, with a year a more typical maturation period.

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Château d’YquemChâteau d’Yquem dominates the Sauternais. It dominates the local landscape; situated near the peak at the centre of the southern half of the appellation it is visible for miles, with a fine view of near neighbours Lafaurie Peyraguey, Rayne-Vigneau, and Rieussec, just a few of the other châteaux which surround the estate. It dominates the 1855 classification of Sauternes and Barsac, sitting pretty in its own private ranking of Premier Cru Supérieur. And it dominates in terms of price; the wines of Château d’Yquem are several times as expensive as those of its neighbours.

Yquem once belonged to Eleanor, Duchess of Aquitaine, the property being just part of her extensive holdings. It was brought under the dominion of the French crown in 1137 by her marriage to Prince Louis Capet, soon to be King Louis VII of France. This marriage lasted fifteen years, ending with an annulment by Pope Eugène III on the grounds of adultery. This left Eleanor free to marry Henri Plantagenet, who became King Henry II of England in 1154. And so Château d’Yquem was, until the end of the Hundred Years War in 1453, a most royal and British estate.

Back under French control, Château d’Yquem came into the hands of the Sauvage d’Yquem family in 1593, who had sole ownership until the 18th century. During their tenure they oversaw extensive modifications to the Medieval structure, adding suitable fortifications and a chapel wing in the 16th century, and a north wing containing the

main reception rooms in the 17th century. It was also during this time that the reputation of the wine of Château d’Yquem was established. In 1785 they teamed up with the Lur-Saluces family of Château de Fargues, the two clans brought together by the marriage of Françoise-Josephine Sauvage d’Yquem with Comte Louis Amédée de Lur-Saluces. As with all such grand families, the French Revolution in the late 18th century saw them lose everything, although in this case not their heads. And so Françoise-Josephine was later able to regain control of what had been taken away; she continued to build up the estate, and was responsible for the construction of a new wine cellar in 1826. When she died in 1851, her son, Marquis Antoine-Marie de Lur-Saluces, inherited the estate. He married Marie-Geneviève, the daughter of Gabriel-Barthélémy-Romain de Filhot and owner of Châteaux Filhot & Coutet. The estate continued to be passed down through the generations of the Lur-Saluces family, coming next to their son, Romain Bertrand. Bertrand continued the development of Yquem, installing an impressive network of terracotta field drains in the 19th century. With his death, Château d’Yquem passed to his son, Amédée, and thence to the latter’s nephew, Bertrand de Lur-Saluces.

Bertrand de Lur-Saluces steered Château d’Yquem through difficult times with great skill. He is an important figure not just in the history of Yquem, but also in the history of all Bordeaux. With colleagues he founded

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not only the Bordeaux Académie du Vin but also the Conseil Interprofessionel du Vin de Bordeaux, today the region’s official promotional body, and was president of the Union des Syndicats de Sauternes. After the Great War, when the buildings at Château d’Yquem had served as a field hospital, he was responsible for instituting château-bottling, and he was also responsible for the introduction of Y (pronounced ygrec in French), Château d’Yquem’s dry white wine, a natural path to follow when the popularity of sweet wines faded in the mid-20th century. For many years it seemed, as Marquis Bertrand provided no heir to inherit the estate, that his nephew Baron Louis Hainguerlot would take control with Bertrand’s inevitable passing. Baron Louis moved to Bordeaux in 1957 and initially lived with Bertrand at his house in Bordeaux, and thereafter in the château at Yquem; having studied oenology it seemed he would be a natural successor. But in 1963 it seems that some dispute between the two came to a head, although the exact details of the disagreement are not clear. Baron Louis left Yquem and Sauternes, and Bertrand turned to another nephew, Alexandre de Lur-Saluces.

In 1968, within a year of Alexandre moving to Bordeaux, Bertrand died, and from that point on Alexandre was in charge of the greatest estate in Sauternes. Largely his tenure was a success; the business prospered and became profitable. This property attracted the attention of Bernard Arnault, as head of the luxury goods group LVMH, who gained a majority among the shareholders.

Comte Alexandre was allowed to stay on until, in 2004, Alexandre was put out to pasture and Pierre Lurton, MD at Château Cheval Blanc (another LVMH property) took the reins. And so ended an impressive tenure for the Lur-Saluces family, as sole caretakers of this great family-owned Bordeaux estate. Lurton obviously wasn’t going to take a back seat; one of his first actions was to command the release of the 1999 vintage at what might be considered a bargain price, an action that preceded the release of the much heralded 2001 vintage, dripping with points and the most expensive Yquem yet. And he has also brought the release of Château d’Yquem into line with much of the rest of Bordeaux, putting subsequent vintages onto the market with the rest of the Sauternes properties during the en primeur scramble.

The vineyards at d’Yquem total 113 ha in all, although only 100 ha are in production at any one time. This allows for grubbing up of elderly vines and replanting following a year when the plot is left fallow. The mix in the vineyard is 80% Semillon and 20% Sauvignon Blanc, with none of the permitted Muscadelle. The soils are variable, unsurprising for such a large estate, but there is much clay which necessitated the installation of the aforementioned field drains. Harvest is by hand in several tries, obviously, with yields typically 9 hl/ha. Fermentation is in oak, followed by typically three years in barrel, with a racking every three months. As mentioned above, in addition to the grand vin there is the a dry white Y; this now has an increasing

proportion of Sauvignon, although it was once a 50/50 blend. It spends a year in oak with regular bâtonnage. It is quite a distinctive wine, being powerful and bone dry, but with botrytis character to be found on nose and palate.

Château d’Yquem is certainly a special estate, ranking among the top white vineyards of France, as documented by Curnonsky (1872–1956), along with Le Montrachet (Burgundy), Château Chalon (Jura), Château Grillet (Rhône), and Clos de la Coulee de Serrant (Loire). But Yquem’s fame rests not just on this one observer; it has long attracted famous names, notably American ambassador Thomas Jefferson—a well known lover of France’s wines—who ordered several hundred bottles of the 1784, as well as securing some 1787 for George Washington. And suitable homage is paid in written word, from Alexandre Dumas, Marcel Proust, and Jules Verne among others. Yquem is, it seems, history, poetry, perhaps life itself rolled into a wine and bottled. These are Sauternes that can dance lightfoot across the palate when young, and in doing so display the structure that will enable long ageing in the cellar. Quite simply, these are—in some vintages at least—fabulous wines.

Menu

Amuse Bouche served with Krug Grande Cuvée, Krug Brut 2003

Grilled filet of turbot, purée of lentils with foam of parsley, and glazed mini corn cobs served with Y d’Yquem 2013

Duck Foie Gras with caramelised apple brioche served with 1989 Petit Cheval, 2000 Château Cheval Blanc from Magnum

Black Angus filet on truffle jus served with 1988 Château Cheval Blanc from Magnum, 1967 Château Cheval Blanc from Magnum

Stilton pear chutney and walnut cake served with 2009 Château d’Yquem, 1990 Château d’Yquem from Magnum, 1962 Château d’Yquem from Magnum

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Tasting NotesFrom Robert Parker, Jancis Robinson, and The Wine Spectator

Krug Grande Cuvée This is all about balance and the integration of power and finesse, with finely honed acidity supporting flavors of quince paste, dried black cherry, spun honey, and candied orange zest, while rich notes of roasted walnut, coffee liqueur, and toasted cardamom resonate on the finish. Hard to stop sipping. (Wine Spectator)

Krug Brut 2003Rich, lightly smoky nose with acidity that immediately seems lower than usual. They lost a lot of Chardonnay to the 11 April frost. For the first time since 1802 they picked in August. Pinot Noir was much better quality than the Chardonnay and some Meunier lifted the notably broad, rich blend. It seems much more forward than usual Krug vintages—even more forward than the Grande Cuvée based on 2003. (Jancis Robinson)

Y d’Yquem 2013 Pale gold—not as lustrous, perhaps, as you’d expect. Really intense nose—no shortcomings apparent here, the flavours are pure, complex, and compelling. Marmalade, lime juice, treacle tart, and a savoury note too—mushroom, mint, menthol. Beautiful elegance on the palate—wonderful sweetness with precise acidity. (Jancis Robinson)

1989 Petit Cheval (no tasting notes)

2000 Château Cheval Blanc from MagnumComing out of a relatively dormant state, this 2000 is a spectacular Cheval Blanc. Of recent vintages, I think only the 2009 can give it a run for its money. A blend of 53% Merlot and 47% Cabernet Franc, the wine has a sweet nose of menthol, melted licorice, boysenberry, blueberry, and cassis. A broad wine with compelling purity, a layered texture, and sweet tannin, with hints of coffee and earth in the background, this is by far the best Cheval Blanc since 1990 and before 2009. It is a legend in the making and can actually be drunk now, as the tannins have nearly melted away. This is a beauty with incredibly complex aromatics. Drink it over the next 25–30 years. (Robert Parker)

1988 Château Cheval Blanc from MagnumA very healthy dark ruby color that shows only a slight lightening at the edge, this wine shows sweet earth notes intermixed with ripe berry fruit, cassis, licorice, and leather. The wine is spicy, medium-bodied, with a moderately tannic finish that is not likely to fully age out. (Robert Parker)

1967 Château Cheval Blanc from MagnumA delicate wine with a caressing mouthfeel. Medium ruby, with lovely perfumed cherry and plum aromas; medium-bodied, with delicate plum flavors, silky tannins and a light finish. (Wine Spectator)

2009 Château d’YquemLively greenish gold. Very indulgent nose that sends a tingle down the spine. Great tang and life as well as richness. So pure and flirtatious—not one of the sweetest, but beautiful balance and refreshment, without being an “aperitif style Sauternes.” Quite exceptionally persistent. Hints of blossom and real lift. Orange peel and real zest—great energy. Not heavy at all, this takes 2009 Sauternes to a new level. Extremely bright fruit. Long and rich. Not a fat style of Yquem. (Jancis Robinson)

1990 Château d’Yquem from MagnumAn extraordinary effort, Yquem’s 1990 is a rich and fabulously superb, sweet wine. This wine also possesses lots of elegance and finesse. The wine’s medium gold color is accompanied by an exceptionally sweet nose of honeyed tropical fruits, peaches, coconut, and apricots. High quality, subtle toasty oak is well-integrated. The wine is massive on the palate,

with layers of intensely ripe botrytis-tinged, exceptionally sweet fruit. Surprisingly well-integrated acidity, and a seamless, full-bodied power and richness have created a wine of remarkable harmony and purity. Certainly it is one of the richest Yquems I have ever tasted, with 50–100 years of potential longevity. An awesome Yquem! Anticipated maturity: 2003–2050+. (Robert Parker)

1962 Château d’Yquem from MagnumThis is an excellent, even outstanding Yquem, but I must admit to being less impressed with it than others who have ecstatically called it one of the greatest Yquems produced. It is rich and honeyed, with a spicy, oaky, tropical fruit aroma, rich butterscotch, toasted fruit, and caramel flavors, and an astringent, dry, slightly coarse finish that, for me, keeps it from getting higher marks.

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Permanent Sponsor

The Wine Forum is a not-for-profit organisation that relies on generous donations of time, money, and resources.We would like to thank the following organisation for their support.

The Wine Forum is grateful for the support and enthusiasm from special Table Hosts at this dinner.

Decathlon Capital Partners. Decathlon Capital is the world’s leading provider of Revenue Based Loans (RBLs) to middle-market companies. By better aligning interests with entrepreneurs, RBLs are becoming the funding solution of choice for small, profitable businesses seeking long term growth capital without the dilution and governance issues associated with traditional equity. Loans range from $200,000 to $5 million. www.decathloncapital.com

Internews (www.internews.org, www.internews.eu)At no time in history has freedom of expression been more critical to the peace and security of our world. The Internet and mobile telephony are at the cutting edge of globalization. Recent events in France have highlighted that a free press must not be taken for granted. Operating in disaster-struck regions and some of the most dangerous political environments on earth, Internews has trained 150,000 journalists in 90 countries and established more than 10,000 local, independent TV and radio channels. Its founder and President Emeritus, David Hoffman, is the author of “Citizens Rising,” which documents the leading role that media activists have played in the major political and social movements of our time.

Featured Charity

For Your Notes

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For Your Notes

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Thank you for attending The Wine Forum’s Benevolence Dinner in Davos. We aim to attain the highest standards in everything we do. We will be delighted to hear your feedback on how we might improve for next time and what you enjoyed the most.

Our scheduled events for 2015 will be in Sonoma in July and Bordeaux in September.

Please contact vidhi@thewineforum.org or david@thewineforum.org for more details.

The Wine Forum is an independent, not-for-profit society of very senior private and public sector leaders who share a passion for fine wine and philanthropy.

Our events feature the best wines from the most renowned producers and take place in discreet, unique settings.

Our members come from many different cultures, religions, and political philosophies and set aside two or three days a year to attend our events.