Illusion

the Joico Creative Team found inspiration in the way the angles of a prism refract light to create many different plays on shape and color.

the Joico Creative Team found inspiration in the way the angles of a prism refract light to create many different plays on shape and color.

the Joico Creative Team found inspiration in the way the angles of a prism refract light to create many different plays on shape and color.

“The collection is prism-like in both form and function,”

said Sue Pemberton, Vero K-PAK Color International

Artistic Director. “Each look features many facets

or ‘angles’ of shape and color, so the end result can vary

greatly depending on how the hair is manipulated.”

To achieve this effect, shape and color were skillfully synergized for maximum

versatility, with each look having the ability to go from “avant-garde editorial”

to “everyday salon wearable” with minimal effort from the stylist or wearer.

All excess weight was extracted from the cuts to create moldable, universally flattering shapes with diffused exterior lines. The geometry was built into the interior of the cuts so that the inner layers act as a prism, allowing color to be exposed to both light and depth in an infinite number of ways.

Pemberton pulled out all the stops for the color, combining color blocking, strand splitting and feathering techniques to create the optical illusion of shimmering, incandescent color. “Live color is not one dimensional; the eye picks up both the actual pigment and the light refraction caused by either structure or movement,” explained Pemberton. “The haircolor placement in this collection mimics refraction by using the lines of the haircut to ‘ split the light’ and create variation of tone and depth.”

the Colors

the shapes

the Colors

the shapes

the Colors

the shapes

Section hair into four areas (as shown). Pay particular attention to the crown area and hairline, and adjust the sectioning pattern to work with the natural growth patterns as needed.

Repeat steps 2 and 3 on the opposite side.

View of the completed back area; note the soft perimeter/hairline. The nape will be refined when the hair is dry. Always work with the natural growth pattern and direction.

Proceed to the side and top areas. Take diagonal partings that pivot from the crown area. Lift, overdirect and apply even tension, lifting each parting slightly higher than the previous. Note that elevation creates a soft perimeter/outline. The front side area is the longest length (falling approximately around the jawline). Always adjust the lengths and degree of graduation to suit the individual face shape, hair texture, hair density, growth pattern and client personality. Repeat on the opposite side. Blow-dry hair smooth with a Denman brush using the wrapping technique.

This technique can be exaggerated and developed further as desired. For example, create extra contrast by cutting the shorter areas shorter and leaving the longer lengths longer.

Start at the nape/hairline behind the ear and cut hair to the desired length. Graduation is the primary technique used here, with the hair shorter at the nape gradually working toward a longer length approximately around the occipital bone. Adjust the degree of weight/graduation to suit the individual hair density, hair texture, growth pattern and overall appearance.

Continue to elevate each parting slightly higher than the previous. Overdirecting, applying proper tension and lifting are key to ensuring the graduation is smooth and consistent. Note the outline (perimeter) is soft and natural; the hairline will be reviewed and refined when the hair is dry. Always continue to cross check.

Refine the nape/ hairline area using a pointing and chipping method. Point-cutting will soften the edges of the hair and allow it to flow with the natural growth pattern.

Take a diagonal parting that extends from the crown to the temple area. Connect the crown by cutting toward the front hairline. Point-cut into the hair to release weight and create softness. The length through the top area can vary depending on the overall desired end result.

Take a horizontal parting, elevate it and point-cut to soften the heavy fringe from a previous haircut; the fringe should be soft and light.

Use the hands to secure the fringe against the skin, then point-cut, chip and refine. Crosscheck the entire hair cut internally; remove any corners by point-cutting and chipping.

Haircut is now ready for color placement. Further refine hair after the color process to ensure the haircut and color flow seamlessly.

Continue to pivot and overdirect the partings to the first guide, point-cutting as before. Overdirection creates length and weight; adjust the degree of overdirection to suit the individual hair texture, hair density, face shape and overall look. For example, thick hair may not require the same degree of overdirection as fine hair.

Repeat process on the opposite side. Return to the first guide (top area), and pivot and overdirect all the partings to the first guide. Continue to point-cut to create softness. Note: This side will be slightly heavier and asymmetrical.

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On the opposite side, resection the triangle so that it is asymmetrical (heavier than the first side), then take a diagonal slice parting with Prelightening Formula using the feathering technique toward the ends.

Take a slice parting toward the fringe area and apply Formula 3 halfway down the slice and Formula 2 to the remainder. Take a staggered slice parting toward the crown and apply Formula 3 halfway down the slice and Formula 2 to the remainder. Leave out a small triangle in the fringe area, then take five back-to back slice partings with Formula 3.

Continue to take staggered slice partings working into the fringe (then back toward the crown) for a total of 11 foils with Prelightening Formula.

Resection out the triangle and clip away on the right side, then take a diagonal slice parting working into the fringe and apply Formula 1. Take a staggered diagonal slice parting toward the crown area with Formula 1. Take a third diagonal slice parting (working into the fringe area) with Formula 1.

Take a diagonal slice parting at the crown and apply Formula 1 halfway down the slice and Formula 2 to the remainder. Take a staggered slice parting toward the fringe area apply Formula 2 halfway down and Formula 3 to the remainder of the slice.

Working off the triangle section (into the fringe area), take a diagonal slice parting and apply Prelightening Formula from the edge of the foil (at the scalp) and feather out toward the ends.

Proceed to the back section. Working off the triangle section, take three horizontal/diagonal back-to-back slice partings. Apply Prelightening Formula with the feathering technique

Completed foiling technique. Apply Base Color to regrowth area, process for 25 minutes, rinse. Apply K-PAK Shampoo, rinse. Apply K-PAK Cuticle Sealer for 5 minutes, rinse. Apply K-PAK Intense Hydrator for 5 minutes, rinse. Style hair with the appropriate Joico styling products.

Take a second diagonal/ horizontal staggered slice parting toward the crown with Prelightening Formula. Apply feathering technique in the same manner.

Lift hair to a level 9 (yellow), rinse. Apply K-PAK Shampoo, rinse. Apply K-PAK Cuticle Sealer for 5 minutes, rinse. Apply K-PAK Deep-Penetrating Reconstructor for 5 minutes, rinse and dry the hair. Ready for Phase 2.

Take a triangle section from each side of the center parting and clip hair away.

Proceed to the left side. Take a diagonal slice parting and apply Formula 1 halfway down and Formula 2 to the remainder. Take a slice parting and apply Formula 2 halfway down and Formula 1 to the remainder. Take two slices and apply Formula 2. Take a slice parting and apply Formula 2 halfway down and Formula 3 to the remainder. Take a slice parting apply Formula 3 halfway down and Formula 2 to the remainder. Take one last slice parting and apply Formula 3.

Take single slice partings with Prelightening Formula (as opposed to staggering, which was done on the opposite side) for a total of six foils.

Proceed to the back section. Take three back-to-back horizontal/diagonal slice partings and apply one slice to Formula 1, one slice to Formula 2 and one slice to Formula 3.

ColorColorColor

Phase 1: Prelightening Model has colored level 6 (light brown) hair.

Prelightening Equal parts VeroLight and 10 Volume (3%) Veroxide

1 Color Intensity Ruby Red (red foil)

2 Color Intensity Amethyst Purple (purple foil)

3 Color Intensity Sapphire Blue (blue foil)

Base Color Vero K-PAK Color 5B with 10 Volume (3%) Veroxide

Phase 2: Color Technique

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Fashion FlashFashion Flash

salon look

Fashion Flash

salon look salon look

Retro ForwardEvery season, a specific decade seems to rule

the runways, and after a close competition

between the 1960s and 1970s, the latter won out.

But don’t expect clients to be rocking full-fledged

bell-bottoms. This time it’s all about subtle

retro touches such as larger lapel shapes,

juxtaposed color combinations and mod

pant silhouettes.

Prints Less Ordinary Leopard print, although a classic, was a big

trend on the fall 2014 runways, but this season,

it was all about creepy crawlers! Everything

from scorpions to bees to chameleons made

their way onto sweetest, most feminine dresses

and gowns.

This collection is depicted in a number of artistic, runway-inspired manifestations, but the shapes and color techniques are designed to inspire your salon work as well. The interior geometry of the cuts support wearable, all-day styles, while the diffused exterior lines offer unlimited street styling possibilities.

As with the shapes, the color techniques are designed to inspire your salon color. Reinterpret the Prism color techniques in client-friendly shades of blonde, brunette and copper for an inspired way to add tone, depth and a sense of illusion to your everyday work.

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