“If they build it, he will come”….Part 1.Travels through Turkey and Spain Oct. 2015

Business trips are pretty harrowing high pressure affairs with multiple airports, flights and hotels interspersed with hours of road travel visiting actual or potential suppliers or alternatively being tied up in numerous meetings in very similar looking hotel lounges or restaurants, not to mention the effects of jet lag moving between opposed time zones around the world.

Its easy to become stressed out on such trips and you need a relief valve. Mine is generally to take whatever spare moments available on these trips to ‘wash my brain’ by getting out and about wherever I happen to be to see a little of my surroundings.

My latest business trip spanned 3 weeks and took me from my home base in Mexico to Turkey for a week, followed by a rapid 2 day visit to Portugal, 5 days in Spain and then back to Turkey for 4 days before finally returning home

During this trip I managed to free up 2 and a half weekend days and in doing so found myself visiting 3 different locations showing totally distinctive architectural styles of building over the ages.

I’ve put together three photo records of my trip to share between family and friends, but first here’s a very brief description of the places I visited.

Enjoy

Jim

My first stop off was Ephesus (Efes) in the province of Izmir, Turkey. The site of an ancient Greek city built around 3 B.C. century Ephesus is now in ruins. Considered by many to be second to Pompei in its splendor the site is popular with cruise line tourists stopping off at nearby Izmir before sailing on to other parts of the Mediterranean. Having said this the volume of tourists is not so great that one can´t find space to walk around and reflect on what must have been a spectacular city in its time.

The next location was a place I had been hoping to visit for a good number of years. The old town of Istanbul on the Turkish European side of the Golden Horn channel, was originally built to be the second Rome. Its skyline, dominated by the impressive ‘Blue Mosque’ and the Hagia Sofia, is often described as being one on the most impressive sights one can see whilst cruising this part of the world. Ceramist that I am, the chance to see some fantastic examples of decorative tiles through the ages couldn’t be missed!

A totally unplanned visit to the Spanish coastal city of Valencia was in many respects the icing on the cake to my trip. Valencia simply wowed me! A beautiful city with many green outdoor spaces open to family activities including walks, bicycle rides, jogging and a multitude of other sporting activities impressed me greatly. I even caught a glimpse of the annual city marathon run from my 6 floor hotel window – great if you can support the “Chariots of Fire” theme song playing continually at full blast for 4 hours! Valencia has a very interesting historical cultural center which it is easy to lose hours in but for me the highlight of my visit was a walk through the amazing modern architectural designs of the complex known as the City of Arts and Sciences. Armed with a digital camera, one could spend hours in this complex looking for that perfect composition, which I’m sure I didn’t get!

So, without more ado on to the first presentation….

Located close to the western Agean Sea coastline of Turkey, approximately 45 miles south of the present day city of Izmir, Ephesus, an important Greek commercial, cultural and religious center during what is known as the Archaic period, was re-founded in early 3 B.C. on its present day site and by 2 B.C. had become the ´de facto´ capital of the Roman province of Asia. During this time the city housed a population of between 35,00 to 55,000 inhabitants and had water access to the nearby Agean sea.

The city was home to the Sanctuary of Artemis, listed as one of the seven wonders of the Ancient World. In A.D. 262 this building was sacked and set on fire by invading Goths. At around the same time an earthquake destroyed most of the town houses in the city center.

By early 4 A.D. much of the city had been rebuilt and Ephesus was well on the way to recovery. In 431A.D. Ephesus was home to the third Ecumenical Council, which is believed to have taken place in the Church of St. Mary, built into one of the colonnaded halls that had earlier enclosed a great sanctuary of Olympian Zeus.

By the early 7A.D. the population had dwindled and moved out of the city center leaving Ephesus as a workshop area. By 10 A.D. the city had been abandoned and left to fall to ruin.

Part 1. - Ephesus - (Efes in Turkish)

In its heyday, Ephesus must have been an impressive looking city. From its harbor basin the city filled a large relatively flat expanse of land before climbing up the cleft between two hillsides to an upper level.

In this aerial view can be seen the wide paved promenade of Harbor Street leading north from what was the harbor basin to the imposing Grand Theatre which commands the entrance to the city.

The promenade then turns west along Marble Street towards the city proper leading to the splendid structure of the Library of Celsus before abruptly turning upwards as Curetes Street a paved road climbing between the two hills of Mount Panayuhr to the east (left side of the view) and Mount Bulbul to the west passing an area of town houses on the right.

As the road climbs it passes the ornate arch of Trajan´s Fountain and further upwards leads between the two pillars known as Hercule´s Gate and finally levels out again on a large columned area, the State Agora, and a small amphitheater known as the Odeion.

A little further on the city ends in the ruins of the Baths of Varius.

This map shows an overhead schematic of the city.

The route I walked in the late afternoon took me from the lower site entrance past the Grand Theatre and along the Marble Street to the Celsus Library. I then turned to walk up Curetes Street to the Odeion returning back the same route to the Grand Theatre. I then walked along the length of Harbor Street to where would have been the Harbor before cutting across to the Harbor Baths and Gymnasium, finally reaching the ruins of the Church of the Virgin Mary.

With the sun sinking behind Mt. Bulbul most of the city from the Celsus Library to the Odeium was in shade and by the time I finished walking the afternoon was rapidly coming to an end.

On the ruins that did catch the sun the marble stones reflected the golden tone you typically see in late Mediterranean afternoons making them glow and leaving a lasting memory in my mind….

… I also won´t forget the cats!

The following slides show my snapshots along the way.

The first view of Ephseus as one walks up the path from the lower entrance is the Grand Theatre, here basking in the late afternoon sunshine.

Approaching the Grand Theatre its size and splendor become obvious making the construction a first stop off for tourists armed with smart phones and selfie-sticks!.

Archived in an area along the entrance to the Grand Theatre are scores of broken pieces of elaborately engraved lintels, columns, column bases and caps and other assorted building stones.

Inside the Grand Theatre the steepness of the seating tiers carved into the hillside of Mount Panayuhr is even more impressive.

Equally impressive is the size of this ampitheatre which dwarfs the tourists who climbed up to the base of the third bank of tiers.

Looking down from the Theatre to the west a long paved promenade known as Harbor Street leads to what was originally the harbor of Ephesus. Changes in the sea level sea and silting up of the harbor have now converted the area into farmland.

To the left of Harbor Street, on its southern side, is a large flat area known as the Mercantile Agora, a market area. The smaller arches seen in the distance were shops from where traders sold their goods.

Heading due south from the Grand Theatre the main road know as the Marble Street takes the visitor to the center of Ephesus. Of note are the large convex faced blocks making up the wall to the right. The covered area on the hillside is the site of a number of large town houses currently undergoing archeological investigation and restoration.

Along the left (eastern) side of the Marble Street a line of columns mark the base of the slope of Mount Panayuhr.

At the end of the Marble Street to the west is the Library of Celsus, the spectacularly ornate monumental tomb of Gaius Julius Celsus Polemaeanus, the governor of the province of Asia. Housed in insulated niches in the walls of the building were around 12,000 scrolls. A sculpture of Athena, the goddess of wisdom, stood over the tomb of Gaius who was laid to rest under the entrance to the building.

Sitting under the shadow of Mount Bulbul as the afternoon draws on, the Library of Celsus is flanked by two large arches of the Gates of Mazaeus and of Mithridates which lead through to the Mercantile Agora.

Opposite the Library of Celsus the Marble Street turns abruptly south east into Curete Street which climbs a clelt between the slopes of the two mounts. With the sun sinking behind Mount Burbul most of the street is in shadow.

Contrasting the golden sunlight on the higher slopes the subdued tones of the marble of the Fountain of Trajan if anything make its elaborate carvings stand out. This ornate structure was built in 2 A.D. in honor of the Emperor Trajan.

Despite the fountain building being over 2000 years old and having had some restoration work the elaborate carvings on its stonework have stood the test of time and are incredibly detailed, giving testament to the skill of the masons who worked the local marble.

Approaching the summit of Curetes Street the marble pavers pass through two pillars know as the Gates of Hercules. I rarely appear in my snapshots but couldn’t resist this pose

Looking back down Curetes Street from the Gates of Hercules one can almost imagine how the city must have looked in its heyday.

A little further up Curetes Street just before reaching is summit is a large area known as the Domitian Square with the partly reconstructed structure of the Domitian Temple built into the Mount Bulbul´s hillside.

“Something old, something new”…… I guess for a wedding gift, they don´t come much better for these newly weds than having your wedding photos taken against the ancient ruins of Ephesus.

One of many carved blocks and pillars lining Curetes Street this one caught my eye since it depicted one of my favorites animals, the ram.

Not only is Aries the Ram, my astrological sign, but is also the mascot and logo of my local football team, Derby County, back home in the UK , as well as the subject of an old traditional folk song ‘The Derby Ram´ from my native Derbyshire.

Excuse the moment of indulgence!

Finally Curetes Street ends at its summit in a long flat rectangular area known as the State Agora, flanked by a colonnaded road, the Basilica Stoa, which passes a small amphitheater, the Odeium, and leads to the Upper baths and Gymnasium, marking the outer limits of Ephesus.

Enjoying the last of the afternoon warmth reflected from the marble structures as the sun rapidly falls this group of tourists are about to enter the Odeium ampitheatre.

Much smaller in size than the Grand Theatre the Odeium is cosy by comparison and contrasted by the golden sunlight on the slope above has an almost homely feel to it.

Another look down Curetes Street sees most tourists heading back in the direction of the lower entrance and I´ll be following them, more or less.

Back down on Harbor Street I take a last look at the Grand Theatre bathing in the golden sunlight of the late afternoon. Pretty memorable!!

In an area of land adjacent to the end of Harbor Street is a collection of sarcophagi worth taking a look at. Ranging from simple structures to elaborately carved ones these marble coffins seem to be a fitting resting place for the citizens of Ephesus.

Once again the carved rams grab my attention and more so on this sarcophagus which also includes carved bulls. It just so happens my wife´s astrological sign is Taurus so maybe I should order up one of these items for our final resting place. Nah! Scrub that idea ‘ I prefer to ‘rest in peace’

From the area displaying the sarcophagi the path leads to the lower entrance past the ruins of the Harbor Baths and on to what is left of the Church of the Virgin Mary. After almost 90 mins walking through Ephesus my tour is almost at an end. Just one slide left….

I couldn’t forget the cats!!!

Turkey is a country of cat lovers and they are to be seen everywhere and Ephesus is no exception.

The entrance to Ephesus is thronged with cats taking advantage of the generosity of wardens and tourists alike who feed them.

No straggly ‘mousers or moggies’ here. These are good looking felines.

Don’t be surprised whilst walking through those ruins to find a cat curled up fast asleep in the sun on top of one of those ornately carved columns.

Cats are cool and they rule Ephesus!!

With this last slide this presentation of my visit to Ephesus is over and my next task is to start sorting out some photos to put together for my follow on visit to Istanbul. Stand by for Part 2. of ‘If they build it, he will come’. Jim