5
Gilly Ford Helen Stewart KEKOO A. MODI. International publishers' Representative 33, Shanti Nivas, Triq F.w. Ryan San Pawl tat-Targa, Naxxar - NXR 2291 Malta Tel: 2141 0899 Mob: 9942 0438 Fax: 2141 3320 I .. ':.' .. ' '':.' 140536 III "" www.heinemann.co.uk ./ Free on line support ./ Useful weblinks ./ 24 hour online ordering 0845 630 4444 Heinemann Part of Pearson

~I IIIllrc.mcast.edu.mt/digitalversion/Table_of_Contents...skin staining 162 and skin tone 144 techniques 147-59 tests 41, 42,142,144,145 tools and materials 157 uneven results 162

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Page 1: ~I IIIllrc.mcast.edu.mt/digitalversion/Table_of_Contents...skin staining 162 and skin tone 144 techniques 147-59 tests 41, 42,142,144,145 tools and materials 157 uneven results 162

Gilly Ford

Helen Stewart

KEKOO A. MODI. International publishers' Representative

33, Shanti Nivas, Triq F.w. Ryan San Pawl tat-Targa,

Naxxar - NXR 2291 • Malta Tel: 2141 0899 • Mob: 9942 0438

Fax: 2141 3320

I '~.'.'.!'." ~'." :....,.r.!'''.~'' .. ':.' .. ' '':.'

140536

~I III ~"" " " www.heinemann.co.uk

./ Free on line support ./ Useful weblinks

./ 24 hour online ordering

0845 630 4444

Heinemann Part of Pearson

Page 2: ~I IIIllrc.mcast.edu.mt/digitalversion/Table_of_Contents...skin staining 162 and skin tone 144 techniques 147-59 tests 41, 42,142,144,145 tools and materials 157 uneven results 162

............................................................................................................. · · : Contents

························r·················································································· . ~ Forew~rd by Andrew Barton IV

: About the authors V

· AcknowLedgements

Introduction

vi

VII

....................................................................•.......................................... · · · · · · · · · ·

The workplace environment G22 Monitor procedures to safeLy controL work operations

G21 Provide hairdressing consuLtation services

G18 Promote additionaL services or products to clients

G19 Support client service improvements

G 11 Contribute to the financiaL effectiveness of the business

3

27

67

81

95 ...............................................................................................................

· · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · ·

Professional skills - hairdressing GH16 CreativeLy cut hair using a combination of techniques

GH 17 CoLour hair using a variety of techniques

.• GH 18 Provide coLour correction services

GH 19 StyLe and dress hair to achieve a variety of creative Looks

GH20 CreativeLy dress Long hair

GH21 DeveLop and enhance your creative hairdressing skiLLs

GH22 Create a variety of permed effects

GH23 Provide creative hair extension services

113

139

169

191

211

229

243

265

H32 Contribute to the pLanning and impLementation of promotionaL activities 285 ....••....•.•.••...•..•..•....•..•................•.............••...•..•...•........•..•.••••••••••.•••••.••.• · · · · · ·

·

Professional skills - African type hair AH28 Design and create intricate styLes using pLaiting techniques

AH30 StyLe African type hair using thermaL styling techniques

303

319

•.••.•....•.•.••.•..•......................•..•.............•..•.•••••.••.............•..•••••••••••••.••.•..•. · · · · · · · · · ·

Professional skills - barbering GB6 Provide shaving services

GB7 Design and create a range of faciaL hair shapes

GB8 CreativeLy cut hair using a combination of barbering techniques

AH35 Design and create patterns in hair

343

361

377 401

: ............................................................................................................. . • Answers to check your knowLedge questions 417

• Index 422

11 111111

Page 3: ~I IIIllrc.mcast.edu.mt/digitalversion/Table_of_Contents...skin staining 162 and skin tone 144 techniques 147-59 tests 41, 42,142,144,145 tools and materials 157 uneven results 162

422

: •...•....•.••......•...•.••..•..•.•••.••..........•..•.•..•.•..•.••....•.•......•...•..•..••.•....•.•.•...•..•.......••...•..•....

Index A accident procedures 20 added hair 204,237-8,379 acrylic hairpieces 204, 237-8

dividing and separating 310 dressing long hair 222 and plaiting techniques 309-10 preparing 276 securing 222, 238, 310 types of 204, 275, 310

advertising campaigns 289-90 advice to client see after-care advice

aesculaps 118, 277, 383 African type hair 160

plaiting techniques 302-1 5 structure 35 thermal styling 319-37

after care advice 33, 135, 206, 413 colouring 163-4, 171, 185-6 facial hair shapes 371,373 men's hairstyling 395 perming 260-1 plaiting 314-15 shaving 355-6 thermal styling 336-7

alcoholic drinks 19 allergic contact dermatitis 16 allergic reactions 42, 43, 142, 145, 246

alopecia 47, 48, 305, 324 traction 224, 225, 268, 281,324

alpha keratin 195-6, 325 anagen phase 39, 40 analysing hair and scalp 34-40

see also consultation androgenic alopecia 48 anti-oxidant conditioner 159, 251, 253

appointments 73, 104, 164, 206, 225

appraisal meetings 106, 107 arching technique 392 arrector pili muscle 34, 36 autoclave 13 avant-garde image 232

B back-combing/brushing 222-3

removing 224 backwash area, hazards 12 Bad Hand Day 145 barbering

facial hair shapes 361-73 re-styling men's hair 377-"96 shaving services 343-56

barber's itch 47 barrel curls 200-1, 333 baselines 122-3 beaded hair 50 beards and moustaches 364

and hairstyle 363 and head and face shapes 362-3 types of 367-9 see also facial hair shapes

beta keratin 195-6, 325 bevelling 121, 132 bleach 146, 175

see also hydrogen peroxide; lightening

block colour and slicing step-by-step 153-4

blonde hair, density 57 blow-drying 199-200 body language 30-1, 32, 74, 75, 83,

of show audience 239 braids 309

extensions 310 sprays 280

by-laws see local by-laws

C canerows 310, 311 catagen phase 39 chemical sterilisers 13 chemicals, hazards and storage 18 chipping 121, 278 cicatrical alopecia 48, 324 cleansing hair 8, 117 client service improvements 81-90

, evaluating changes 89-90 implementing changes 87-9 informing clients 88 obtaining feedback 84-6, 89-90 presenting ideas 87-8 recognising need for 86-7 using feedback 83-7 working as a team 89

clients, consultation 28-33 identifying needs/wishes 29-33

see also after-care; consultation

climazone 175 clipper-over-comb 121, 367, 386, 407

clippering 132, 394 clippers 118-19, 276, 278, 347, 383, 385,

405-6 cleaning 366 clockspring curls 201 closed questions 30, 84 clothing of client 61 cut hairs on 131, 134, 393 clothing of stylist 22, 31 club cutting 120, 132, 386, 394 cohesive setting 195-6 colour correction services 169-86

bands of colour 181 contra-indications 170, 171-3

highlights and lowlights 184-5 influencing factors 172-3 pre-pigmentation 182-3 pre-service checklist 176 pre-service tests 174 preparing client 170-5, 176-9 re-colouring hair 181-3 removing colour by oxidation 181 removing colour by reduction 179-80

sequence of application 173 step-by-step guide 182-3

colour test 42 colouring and lightening hair 139-64

benents for client and salon 147 block colour and sliCing step-by-step 153-4

and body temperature 142, 173

colour selection principles 148 contra-indications 141-2

and haircut 144 home colourants 33 influencing factors 141-4 mixing colours 146-7 and natural pigmentation 148, 177

neutralising colour tone 160 over/under-processing 162 pre-pigmentation 161 pre-softening 143 preparation 140-7 preparing client's hair 141 problems and solutions 159-62 product seepage 162 removing colour 157, 159 resistant hair 160 restoring depth and tone 158 scalp sensitivity 162 skin staining 162 and skin tone 144 techniques 147-59 tests 41, 42,142,144,145 tools and materials 157

uneven results 162 weaving and slicing step by step 155-6

see also lightening hair combs 385 communication skills 28, 29-32, 107-8

effective 82 listening 32 non-verbal 30-1, 74-5, 83 and promotions 73-6, 294-5 questions 29-30 summarising 29, 30 verbal 29-30, 73-4 written 31, 73, 107-8

competition work 230, 232, 236 conditioners 8

anti-oxidant 159,251,253 pre- and post-perm 251,252 consultation 28-33,40, 193, 213, 320

assistance to colleagues 57

colouring services 141, 170-1 creating patterns 402, 412

facial hair shapes 362 hair extension services 266 and honesty of client 40, 245 men's hairstyling 378-80 perming services 244-5 questioning client 28-33, 40 requirements for effective 115, 116 shaving services 344 special requirements 56-7, 61-2 throughout cutting 130, 131 written record of 141

consumable stock 102 Consumer Protection Act (1987) 97-8

Consumer Protection (Distance Selling)

Regulations (2000) 98 contact dermatitis 269 cordless clippers 119 cornrows 309, 310, 311 cortex of hair 34, 35, 177, 178

perming process 249, 250-1 COSHH Regulations (2002) 7, 8, 133,234

classincation symbols 7 colouring hair 174-5

and powder bleach 146, 175 styling and nnishing products 192, 206

Cosmetic Products (Safety) Regulations (2008) 8

cost of service 62, 116, 170 cowlick 55 creative skills 230-9 creatively cutting hair 113-35

after service 132-5 creating the look 117-32 cross-checking throughout 130, 131

influencing factors 130, 131 preparing client 114-17 step by step re-styling 124-9 timing 131

crimping irons 336 cross-infection risk 46, 248, 403 cutting skin 371

and shaving services 345, 346 curl pattern of hair 37-8, 328 curling irons 332-6 current trends, awareness of 58 cuticle 34,44,177,178 cutting

problems and solutions 131 reference chart 394 rules 131 techniques 132, 278-9, 367, 386-9

see also creatively cutting cutting angles 122, 391 cutting collar 117, 131 cutting combs 385 cutting skin, dealing with 371, 411 cutting tools 276-7,365-6,383-5,405-6

o damaged hair 142, 172, 246 dandruff 49 Data Protection Act (1998) 62, 84, 98, 296

demonstrations 288 density of hair 57, 216, 305, 327

and colouring 144, 173 and creating patterns 403, 411 and extensions 268 facial hair 364 and perming 246 and shaving services 345

dermal papilla 34, 36, 39 dermatitis 16, 145, 174 development targets 105-6 diffuse alopecia 48 disabilities, clients with 88, 89

disconnecting 121, 132, 387, 394 displays 286, 288 disulphide bonds 249 double crown 55 drawing brushes 276,308, 310 dress codes 31 dressing hair 205

see also styling and dressing

dressing/styling cream 133, 206, 395

drinks in salon 19 drugs 19 dry powder extinguisher 21 drying techniques 199-200

E easi-meche 157 eating in salon 19 eczema 49 elasticity of hair 115,194,214

and extensions 276 and plaiting 305 and thermal styling 327

elasticity test 41, 145,174,267

electrical equipment 16-18, 103, 192

heated styling 202-3 safety rules 16 thermal styling 323, 324

Elecbicity at Work Regulations (1989) 6, 103, 234

emergency procedures 20-1 empathy 74 environmental factors, risks from 20

Environmental Protection Act (1990) 10

epidermis 34, 36 equipment, regulations 11

see also tools and equipment

evacuation procedures 20, 21 evaluation of promotions 296-7

presenting report 297 extensions see hair extension services

eye contact 30,32,74,294

F face shapes 52-4

see also head and face shapes

facial expressions 30, 32, 74, 75, 83

facial hair shapes 361-73 after service 371 cutting techniques 367 cutting tools 365-6 drawing outline 365 influencing factors 363-4 preparing the client 362-5 preparing facial hair 365 problems and remedies 369 procedures for 369 removal of cuttings 372 trimming, step-by-step guide 370

see also beards and moustaches

facial piercings 346, 364 fading 387, 394,407

Page 4: ~I IIIllrc.mcast.edu.mt/digitalversion/Table_of_Contents...skin staining 162 and skin tone 144 techniques 147-59 tests 41, 42,142,144,145 tools and materials 157 uneven results 162

feedback on creative activity 238-9 from coLLeagues 106 negative 108 on promotionaL activity 296, 297

feedback from clients 83-7 informaL methods 83 interviews 85 negative 90 questions 84-5 written client survey 84 ,"

nbriL 35 \ nnanciaL effectiveness of business 95-108 nnger waving 202 nre evacuation procedures 20 nre extinguishers 21 Fire Precautions Act (1971) 9 Fire Precautions (WorkpLace) ReguLations

(Amendment) (1999) 9 nrst aid 10

promotionaL activities 292 First Aid ReguLations (1981) 10 nsh hooks 203, 259, 335 nshtaiL pLait 310, 311 ~at irons 336 ~ood procedures 21 ~oor, cuttings on 132, 269, 396 ~uorescent Lighting 147, 177 foiLs 157 foLliculitis 47,354 fragilitis crinium 49 freehand cutting 121, 132,278,387,394,407 French pLaiting 310, 311

G gas Leak 21 gel/geL spray 133, 205, 308, 395 GeneraL Product Safety ReguLations (2005) 97-8 gestures 75 goddess braids 309 gowning client 117, 193, 306, 322, 404

men's hairstyLes 381 removing gown 134, 395

graduation 121, 122-3,387 growth patterns 55-6, 115, 193, 247, 403

cowLick 55 doubLe crown 55 and dressing Long hair 214 and extensions 268 faciaL hair 345, 363 men's hairstyLes 380 nape whorL 55, 56 and pLaiting 304-5 widow's peak 55, 56

guidelines 122-3, 391,393

H hackLe and drawing brushes 276,308, 310 hair

anaLysis of 34-40 bLood and nerve suppLy 34, 36 buLb 34, 36, 37 curLy, straight and wavy 37-8 foLlicle 34, 36

heaLth of 44-5 see also structure

hair cuttings 132 on client's clothing 131, 134, 393 on ~oor 132, 269, 396 removing frorn skin 372

hair disorders 45 hair extension services 266-81,305

aftercare 279-80 attachment methods 270-4 bLock coLour 276 coLd attachment 270, 273 contra-indications 268 creative nnishing 279 cutting techniques 278-9 cutting tools 269, 276-7

hot attachment 270-2 in~uencing factors 268 maintaining tension 276 maintenance/removaL 279 potentiaL probLems 281 preparation of hair 269 test required 267

hair growth cycle 39-40 see also growth patterns

hair shows 235 hairpieces see added hair hairspray 133, 395 hand gestures 30 hazardous substances 12 handling and using 7, 18

storage and disposaL 7 hazards 4, 5, 20, 234

backwash area 12 Lifting and moving 15 reporting 174 workpLace 12-18

head and face shapes 52-4,214 and beards and moustaches 362-3 creating patterns 403, 411 and pLaiting 305 and thermaL styling 328

head Lice 45, 46, 61, 131, 321 heaLth see personaL heaLth heaLth of hair 44-5 heaLth and safety 4-22, 234

appointed person 13 LegisLation 5-12 policies and procedures 4-5 and promotionaL activities 291-2,293

HeaLth and Safety at Work Act (1974) 5, 8, 12, 96, 103, 192, 234

HeaLth and Safety Executive (HSE) 5 HeaLth and Safety (First Aid) ReguLations (1981)

10 heat, effects of 224, 225 hepatitis Band C risk 14, 406 highlights and LowLights, correcting 184-5 HIV risk 14, 406 home-care advice 33,54,135,171,413

2 in 1 shampoos 33 see also after-care advice

honesty of clients 40, 245 honesty towards clients 51,171 hopscotch wind 257 hot toweLs, use in shaving 348-9, 351,352 human hair 275, 310 human resources 103 humidity 224, 308 hydrogen bonds 195-6, 320, 325-6 hydrogen peroxide 160, 173, 179

and coLour reducers 180 guide to choosing strength 151, 176-7 measuring 146 and permanent coLours 149-50

iLLness 20, 22 images, creative 230, 231, 232

added hair 237 additionaL media 236-7 design principLes 231 evaLuating resuLts 238-9 probLems and soLutions 235-6 props 233, 234 resource requirements 233 roLes/responsibilities of others 233 suitabLe images 232 techniques 237 venue requirements 236 working to a budget 233

impetigo 46 improvements see client service in-growing hairs 50, 120, 384

and shaving 353, 354, 355 incompatibility of products/services 51

coLourants 51,142,172 perming services 245, 246, 247

incompatibiLity test 41, 142, 145 infections 14, 46-7, 115, 171, 364 infestations 45-6, 115, 380 insurance 234 interviewing client 85 irritant contact dermatitis 16

J jeweLLery and clothing 22 jumbo braids 309

III11

K kanekaLon 275, 309 keLoid scarring 50 keratin 34

L Lathering techniques 348-9 Layering 122, 387 Leaflets and flyers 72, 73, 290 LegisLation 5-12

consumer protection 96, 97-8 Fire Precautions (1971) (1999) 9 heaLth and safety 5, 8, 10, 11, 12, 96, 103 retailing 292 and use of resources 96-8 see also individuaL Acts

lifestyLe of client 54, 115, 144, 364 and hair extensions 268

Lightening hair 8, 140-7, 151-2 bLeach to pre-Lighten 161 effect on hair structure 150-1 monitoring deveLopment 157 ruLes for 152 see also coLouring

Lighting and hair coLour 147-8, 177 Listening skiLls 32 LocaL by-Laws 11, 292, 347, 404 LocaL Government (MisceLLaneous Provisions) Act

(1982) 11 Long hair, styling 211-25

added hair 222 after service 224-5 assistance 217 back combing/brushing 222-3 checking with client 224 curLs and woven effects 220-1 dressing techniques 216-18 influencing factors 213-17

Length and density of hair 216 occasion and ornamentation 213-14

Long stem pin curls 201

M magazine features 73 maLe pattern baLdness 48, 378-9, 403 man-made hair 275 Management of HeaLth and Safety at Work

ReguLations (1999) 11 manuaL handling 14-15 ManuaL Handling Operations ReguLations (1992)

9,96,234 media campaigns 289 medication 19

of client 45, 172 meduLLa 34, 36 meLanin 35, 148, j 50, 176-7 men's hairstyLing 377-96

after service 394-5 checklist 393 connrming nnished Look 395 contra-indications 380 current Looks 390 cutting probLems 393 cutting techniques 386-9, 394 neckline shapes 390-1 preparing client 378-81 step-by-step guide 388-9 three sections 391-2 traditionaL Looks 390

moist heat sterilisation 14 moisturisers 206 moniLethrix 50 motivation of staff 105 mousse 133, 205 moustaches, types of 368

see also beards and moustaches, faciaL hair

moving and handling 14-15

N nape whorLs 55, 56,121 neckline shapes 390-1 neutralising coLour tone 160 non-infectious skin/scaLp conditions 47-50 non-verbaL communication 30-1, 32, 74-5, 83

o observing clients' hair 40 open bLade razor 347 open questions 84 ortho-cortex 35 outLining 353, 391, 392 oxidants 148 oxidation 176 perming process 250 removing coLour by 181 oxidation tints 149-50, 164, 178

P para-cortex 35 parting, position of 53 patterns in hair, creating 402-13

contra-indications 402-3 cutting probLems and remedies 411 cutting tools 405-6 influencing factors 402-3

positioning of seLf and client 411 preparing client 402-4

step-by-step guides 498-9, 410 payment policies 62 permanent coLour 149-50, 164, 178 perming science 248-51

oxidation 250 reduction process 249 softening stage 250 structure of hair 249

perming services 243-61 after service 260-1 contra-indications 246 deveLopment test cut 258 doubLe wind 258 effects of temperature 251 and hair condition 246, 250-1 and haircut 247 influencing factors 246-7 neutralisers 252, 253

pre- and post-perm conditioners 251,252 probLems and remedies 259-60

root Lift 257 sectioning and winding techniques 255-8 spiraL wind 256 straightening techniques 259 tests and testing 42, 247 types of Lotion/cream 251, 252, 253 types of rods 253-4 ,weaving 256

personaL heaLth and hygiene 22, 31, 115, 192, 248,321,365, 380,403 checklist 175, 213, 306 and extension service 269

personaL Learning and improvement 106-8 personaL presentation 22, 31 personaL protective equipment 7,117,306

for client 6, 134 coLouring services 146, 174 creating patterns 404 and extension service 269 faciaL hair shapes 365 men's hairstyLes 381

perming services 248 for stylist 6 thermaL styling 322

PersonaL Protective Equipment at Work ReguLations (1992) 6, 234

pH vaLues of coLouring products 158, 179 pheomeLanin 35, 148, 150, 176-7 photographic shoots 235 piggyback wind 255 pin curling 200-1 pLaiting techniques 217, 218, 302-15

after service 314-15 consuLtation 304-6 influencing factors 304-6 Looks and styLes 309-13

preparing hair for 307 removaL of pLaits 315 step-by-step 312-13

pLeats 217,218 point cutting 121,132,278 policies and procedures 4-5, 13 polishing 143 porosity of hair 143, 172-3, 180 porosity test 41, 145

Page 5: ~I IIIllrc.mcast.edu.mt/digitalversion/Table_of_Contents...skin staining 162 and skin tone 144 techniques 147-59 tests 41, 42,142,144,145 tools and materials 157 uneven results 162

positioning of self and client 145,175,307, 392 balancing weight 130, 204

posture 15, 30, 75, 130, 145, 175, 248 and extension service 269 men's hairstyling 392

plaiting techniques 306, 307 shaving services 346

powder bleach 146, 175 pre-pigmentation 161, 182-3 pre-softening hair 143,144,160,18'5 pregnancy and hair growth 40 '~t pressing hair 332 pricing, including consultation 116 product knowledge 74, 106, 133

updating 134, 308 productivity targets 105-7

'products 8, 68, 82-3, 185-6, 353 after colouring 163 disposal 10, 133 for facial hair 371, 373 hazards from 12, 18' home-care 261,280,281,413 men's styling products 394-5 monitoring level of 96 for plaiting 307-8

pressing oils and creams 332 promoting 67-76

retail display 71, 72, 288 styling/Anishing 133-4, 205-6, 213 thermal styling 326, 336-7

promoting additional services 67-76 see also salon promotions

promotional activities 285-97 advertising 290, 295 after the event 295 budget 287,291 detailed plan 290-3 displays 288 evaluation of 296-7 features and beneAts 293--4 implementing 293-5 and legislation 292 making initial proposal 287

planning checklist 286 presenting and demonstrating 295 problems and solutions 295

resources 291, 293 setting SMART objectives 287, 289 target group 287-8 team responsibilities 290 venue and legal requirements 291-3

Provision and Use of Work Equipment Regulations (1998) 11

psoriasis 48 pull test 267

Q quasi-permanent colours 149, 164, 177 questioning clients 29-30, 40 questionnaires 84-5, 239

R razor cutting 120, 132, 278-9, 387, 394 razors/safety razors 119-20, 277, 347, 383,

384, 405, 406, 407 holding 119, 347, 384

re-colouring hair 181-3 recommendations to client 33, 58-61

and unavailable service 59 see also after-care; consultation

record cards 31, 40, 73,145,336,402 accuracy of 107-8 colouring details 164, 170, 186 and Data Protection 98 electronic 63 perming information 261

requirements 62-3 red hair, denSity 57 reduction 176, 179-80

perming process 249, 250 referring client 45, 59-61

skin/scalp conditions 46, 47, 48, 49, 50 regulations 6-11

see also legislation relaxers, hazards 18 relaxing service 61 Remy hair 275

Reporting of Injuries, Diseases and Dangerous Occurrences Regulations (RIDDOR) (1995) 10,96

resources human resources 103 stock control 99-102 time 104-5 see also tools and equipment

restructurant conditioners 251,253 re-style 33, 131

step by step 124-5, 126-7, 128-9 reverse graduation 122, 123 ringworm 46 risk 4, 14, 20 risk assessment 7,9, 11,234

Ave steps 5 promotional activities 291-2

rolls217,218 root glare 142, 173

S safe working practices 13-14, 19-20, 248, 269

colouring services 145-6,174-5 rules for 16

shaving services 346 Sale of Goods Act (1979) 97 Sale and Supply of Goods Act (1994) 97 salon

decor 148 lighting 147-8 updating 87 see also safe working; temperature

salon promotions 70-6 and communication 73-6 launch party 72

saturation point 71 window displays 72

scabies 46 scissor-over-comb 121,132,386,394,407

facial hair 367 length of blades 383, 405

scissors 118, 276, 277, 366, 383, 405 sebaceous cyst 49 sebaceous glands 34, 36 seborrhoeic dermatitis 49 selling skills 294 semi-consumable stock 102 semi-permanent colours 149, 164, 177 serums 280 service improvements see client seNice services 61-2

factors influencing 45-57 promoting additional 67-76 targeting 82-3 unavailable 59

setting 196 on- and off-base 198-9, 201 process 195-6 unconventional techniques 196-7 winding techniques 198

setting/styling lotions 8, 205 shade charts 140, 141 shadowing 120, 407 shaper 119, 277, 384 sharps disposal 10, 14, 120, 132 shaving services 343-56

after service 355-6 backhand and forehand shaving 350 cooling the skin 353 facial contours and features 345 and growth patterns 345 lathering techniques 348-9 pattern to follow 350 preparing client 344-9 problems and remedies 354 products 8, 353

second over-shave 353 step-by-step guide 351-2 shine sprays/glosses 206 short back and sides 390 sign language 29 skills, developing new 106-7 skin

darkening of 120, 407 disorders 142,171,246,403

sensitivities 142,171,173 structure of 34, 36

skin tests 18, 42, 142, 144, 145, 267 skin/scalp conditions

infectious 46-7 non-infectious 47-50

slicing/tapering 132 SMART objectives 287 smoking 19 special occasion style 56-7 spiral curling 335 splitting hair (fragilitis crinium) 135 sponge shaving 348, 353 staff meetings 5, 89 steamer case study 17 sterilisation 13-14, 364, 404 stock control 99-102

checking arrivals 101 computerised 99, 100 manufacturer's stock sheet 100 monitoring stock usage 101-2

stock levels 99, 175 stock rotation 101 stocktaking 99, 101 storing chemicals 18 straightening creams 133, 206 structure of hair 34-6

effect of bleach/lighteners 150-1 effect of colouring 149-50 effect of perming 249 effect of thermal styling 325-6

stylebooks 115, 213, 245, 304, 363, 380 styling and dressing hair 192-206

added hair 204 drying techniques 199-200 facial features 193 heated styling equipment 202-3 influencing factors 193 preparing client 192-3

setting 195-9 styling techniques 195-204

see also setting stylist

creativity 230, 402 developing skills 140, 230, 266, 304 and health and safety 4-5, 6, 9, 12 personal health 22 personalised styling 320 PPE 6, 7 promoting products and services 67-76 responsibilities 7, 9, 12

selling opportunities 286 shaving service 344 styling and dressing hair 192

tirne and cost of services 170 updating knowledge 58, 69 use of resources 96 see also consultation; personal health

sudoriferous (sweat) glands 34, 36 suggestion box 86 survey, client feedback 84, 85 suspicious parcels 21 sycosis barbae 47 symmetrical pattern 402

T tapering/slicing 121,278,386,394 teasing hair 223 telephone communication 73, 107 telephone survey 85, 296 telogen phase 39-40 temperature of salon 142, 176

and colour correction service 172 and perming 246, 251

temporary setting 195, 196 tests on hair 40-2

elasticity 41 incompatibility 41 perming 247, 258 porosity 41 recording results 247, 268 skin tests 42

test cuttings 42, 143, 145 texture of hair 57,214,246,305

and creating patterns 403, 411 and thermal styling 328

texture test 41 texturising 121, 132,279,387,394 texturising scissors 118, 383

thermal styling, science of 325-6 thermal styling techniques 319-37

after service 336-7 contra-indications 321 curling irons 332-6 flat and crimping irons 336 hair pressing 332 influencing factors 327-8 preparing hair for 325-8 re-growth of relaxed hair 327 step-by-step guide 330-1

testing tool temperature 324, 326, 333, 334 tools and equipment 323, 324, 329

waving hair 335-6 thermo-active sprays 205 thinning 120, 132, 386, 394 thinning scissors 118, 276, 277, 383, 386

3D pictorial patterns 402 time as resource 104-5 timing of service 61, 131, 170

hair extensions 266 men's hairstyling 393 perming 244 I shaving 344

tools and equipment 103,147,175 cleaning and sterilising 13-14, 346 electrical 16-18, 103 plaiting techniques 308 problems and solutions 103 shaving services 347-9 sterilisation 364

traction alopecia 47, 224, 225, 324 and extensions 268,281,305

Trade Descriptions Act (1968) 58, 97 trade events 69 trade publications 58, 69, 230, 290 trichologist, referral to 47-50, 60 trichorrhexis nodosa 50 trichotillomania 48 trust of client 28 twists and knots 217,218

U ultra-violet radiation cabinet 14 updating knowledge 58

V verbal communication 29-30, 73--4 visual aids 115, 402 voice, tone of 74,75 'Volume, adding and reducing 335

W waste disposal 7, 10, 132, 337

after perming 260 case study 373 colouring products 186 facial hair cutting 373 razor blades/sharps 132, 347, 353, 355, 373, 396 shaving 355

waving hair using irons 335-6 wavy hair 328 wax 133, 206, 280, 308, 395 weaving and slicing step by step 155-6 website, salon 72, 73, 86, 88, 290 welfare regulations 11 white hair 160

colouring 144, 173 pre-softening 1 85 thermal styling 326

whorls 363 see also growth patterns

widow's peak 55, 56 winding techniques 198

perming 255-8 window displays 72, 286, 288 work area preparation 117, 269, 404

checklist 175, 212, 306 men's hairstyles 381-2 for plaiting 306 thermal styling 322--4

Working Time Directive (1998) 98, 103 workplace health and safety 4-5, 12-18 Workplace (Health, Safety and Welfare)

Regulations (1992) 11 wrap-dry 329 wraps 157 written communication 31, 73, 107-8