How to Use This LillyGiggle Pattern - Sewing Patterns by ... · layout diagram). This is a great pattern to use recycled fabrics! When choosing t-shirts to upcycle be sure to look

How to Use ThisLillyGiggle Pattern

Step 1 - Print this entire packet. Be sure that your printer settings say to NOT scale or reduce/enlarge images. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT. Please see your printer owner’s manual if you need help with this step. Our pages are set up with a 1/2” border (at least) around all pages, so you should be able to print the entire page without anything getting cropped off. Again - PRINT EVERYTHING at 100%.

Step 2 - Sort it all out. Our pages are, numbered and sequenced, and keeping them in order is reasonably important.

Step 3 - Separate the pattern pages from the tutorial pages. The tutorial pages have the LillyGiggle logo and web-site at the bottom. The pattern pages have a lighter, thinner blue outline.

Step 4 - Cut out the pattern pages. Cut around the light blue, dashed border.

Step 5 - Line up the pattern. We use dots at the corners of the pages in order to help you align everything and get it all put together properly. We’re also including a diagram below to help out. If you match stuff up and you have a dot that is one color on one half and another color on the other, you’ve got them wrong. It should be pretty easy.

Step 5 - Tape everything together. Putting it all on one side and then turning it over and taping on the back helps keep everything in place. Be sure to run your tape from edge to edge of the whole pattern so that when you cut everything out, it stays together where it’s supposed to.

Step 6 - You’re ready to get cutting your fabric & get to sewing!PAGE LAYOUT for THIS PROJECT

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This pattern, tutorial and all imagery and photography is the exclusive property of LillyGiggle and is copyrighted. All rights reserved. Any portion of this pattern or tutorial

may not be used, whole or in part, without express written permission.

You may not resell this pattern, tutorial, or any portion thereof. You may make clothing using this pattern, and you

may resell those clothes, but you may not resell thispattern. We would appreciate letting the world know that

you used a LillyGiggle pattern, but that’s entirely up to you and your conscience - or lack thereof.

©2011-2012 LillyGiggle. All rights reserved.

www.lilygiggle.com • lilygiggle.etsy.com

TUTORIAL PAGE 1


TUTORIAL PAGE 2

The Beehive Bloomers

Size 12months-10 years

Materials Needed:

1 XL or larger T-shirt for body of pants (sizes above 6 will most likely need to be made from yardage)

1 S to XL for the contrast bottom Matching Thread Elastic Thread

3/4” elastic 4-1” buttons (optional)

If buying off of the bolt you will need 3/4 yard of fabric for pants (7/8 yd. for sizes 8-10) and ½ yard for bottom rouching for sizes 4-10 and ¼ yard for size

12months-24 months (see page 5 for cutting layout diagram).


TUTORIAL PAGE 3

Also included in this pattern and tutorial are the Beehive Bloomers Knit Rufflers. Materials Needed: 1 XL or larger T-shirt for body of pants (sizes above 6 will most likely need to be made from yardage) 1 S to XL for the ruffles Matching Thread 3/4” elastic If buying off of the bolt you will need 1 yard of fabric for sizes up to 6-7 and 1 ¼ yard for sizes 8-10 (see page 5 for cutting layout diagram).

This is a great pattern to use recycled fabrics! When choosing t-shirts to upcycle be sure to look for fabric in good condition with minimal pilling. I love to recycle t-shirts that have gotten a hole or a stain and can no longer be used into ruffles. It’s simple to cut ruffles from the parts of the tees that are still in good shape. You will need a larger t-shirt for the pants, themselves, but you can use several different sizes and styles for the ruffles and rouched bottom. Have fun and experiment. Of course, if you would like to use your favorite stretch knits off of the bolt you can do that as well. A cutting layout diagram is included on page 4.

About this pattern… ~ This pattern uses a ½” seam allowance, unless otherwise stated.

Pattern Cutting Instructions…

~ Note that the pattern pieces are in multiple sizes. Be sure to use a consistent size when cutting the individual pieces. Each size is indicated by a different

color line to ease in cutting.

~Wash and dry all fabrics before cutting. This will remove sizing and keep the finished garment from shrinking.


TUTORIAL PAGE 4

LilyGiggle patterns are based on the following body measurements. Use your child’s measurements to determine size. If you don’t have the measurements

just choose the size that your child wears normally.

Cutting Layout Diagram on the next page…


TUTORIAL PAGE 5

Beehive Bloomers (Version 1-Rouching)

Beehive Bloomers (Version 2-Rufflers)

When cutting out your fabric be sure to follow the cutting diagram. Fold your fabric in half selvedge to selvedge (the finished edges of fabric off of the bolt)

then when you cut out you will have 2 pieces. Be careful to notice which version you are cutting out…there are different cutting lines for each.


TUTORIAL PAGE 6

Cutting Directions for Using Recycled Tees…

Lay out your t-shirt on a flat surface and place the PANTS FRONT & BACK pattern piece on it as shown…

***When cutting out the BOTTOM rouching pattern piece or RUFFLE piece, you can save some time by lining the long edge of it along the hem of the tee and…voila…you will have a hem already in place. This can make your finished piece too long, though, since the pattern allows for a 1” hem. To keep the length accurate you can fold in that long edge on the pattern piece 1” before placing it on the t-shirt and cutting.

Special Tips for Sewing with Stretch Knits

~Stretch knit fabrics will not fray so you don’t have to finish the inside seams

~If not using a serger, use a ball point or stretch needle and double-stitch your seams (instructions given in tutorial). You will want to use a looser stitch (stitch length 3) than on a woven because you want the stitches to have some stretch. Use a fresh needle for each garment.

~When sewing a straight seam you want to gently stretch the seam as you sew, especially on knits that roll like jersey and single knits. The stretchier the fabric the more you will want to stretch your seam.

~Be careful not to stretch your fabric while pressing. It is very important not to pull your garment out of shape.

~The hem can be the trickiest part especially if you are working with very stretchy fabric. To keep your hemline from “growing” you should use a longer stitch. Be sure and steam press well to shrink back in place.

~If you are sewing your stretch knit garment on a serger with differential

feed, there is no need to stretch while sewing.


TUTORIAL PAGE 7

Let’s Sew the Beehive Bloomers! (Version 1-Rouched Bottom)

1. Begin by laying out one of your FRONT & BACK PANTS piece with the right side facing up. Lay one of the BOTTOM PANTS pieces with the right side facing up directly below it.

2. Now flip up the BOTTOM PANTS piece so that the right

side is facing down on the PANTS piece (right sides

together). Line up the edges (bottom edge of PANTS with the top edge of the BOTTOM PANTS piece) and pin into

place as shown.

3. Stitch this seam together. Remember to back stitch (after making your first few stitches hit your reverse button and go back right on top of them. Now you can move forward again right back over the stitches and continue your seam) at the beginning and ending of each row of stitching to secure the seams. I won’t keep mentioning it but you always need to do this at the beginning and ending of each row of stitching for secure seams.


TUTORIAL PAGE 8

4. After completing the seam, go back and sew a second line of stitching 1/8” parallel to the first line of stitching. This is called double stitching and is recommended for stretch knits sewn on a regular sewing machine (if using a serger, there is no need for this).

5. Finish the raw edges of the seam with your preferred method, if not using a serger. Remember that you don’t have to finish stretch knits because they don’t fray. However, for a more finished look you may want to run a sewing machine overlock or zig zag stitch along the inside edges. Do not use pinking shears on stretch knit. Press the seam flat.

You should now have a pant leg that looks like this. Follow steps #1-5 for the other FRONT AND BACK PANTS pattern piece and BOTTOM PANTS pattern piece.

6. Lay out your FRONT & BACK PANTS piece with the right side facing up (as above). Lay the other FRONT & BACK PANTS piece directly on top of it with the right side of the fabric facing down…right sides together.


TUTORIAL PAGE 9

7. Pin the curved edges of the front and back rise (both curved edges).

8. Sew along each pinned edge.

If not using a serger remember to double stitch your seams, finish the raw edges with your preference and then press the seams flat.

After sewing, turn the seam so that it looks something like this…

The inseam is still open at this point.

9. Carefully match up the seam line between the BOTTOM PANTS pieces and the top of the pants. Pin to secure. Do the same thing with the seams at the crotch.

10. Now continue to pin all along the inseam on both legs.


TUTORIAL PAGE 10

11. Sew along pinned edge being extra careful to keep the seam separating the top and bottom of the pants lined up as well as the crotch seam. Finish and press.

Starting to look like pants!!!

Now, for the waist….

12. If using a serger, go ahead and run a line of stitching along the top edge of the pants and skip to the next step. If using a sewing machine, head over to the ironing board and press ¼” of fabric towards the inside of your pants all the way around the top edge.

13. Turn 1” of the fabric at the top edge of the pants towards the inside and press all the way around. Pin to secure and head back over to the sewing machine.

14. Staying about 1/8” from the folded or serged edge, begin sewing the waistband casing down as shown…


TUTORIAL PAGE 11

15. Sew all the way around the top of the pants. When you are about 1” from where you started your line of stitching…stop…this will leave an opening for you to insert the elastic into.

16. Cut elastic to the size of waist measurement minus 3”. Put a safety pin in the end of the elastic piece and hold onto it from the outside of the waistband as you carefully pull it through the waistband casing after inserting it into the 1 inch opening. Be careful not to let the end without the safety pin go into the casing. It might be best to safety pin it to the outside of the opening to keep it secure as you pull the other end through.

17. When you have both ends coming out of your 1 inch opening of the casing, put them together and stitch. Go back and forth several times with your stitching to make sure it is nice and secure.

18. Pull the elastic back up into the casing and stitch the opening closed. You will need to “play” with the waistband a bit to get it to gather evenly.

***If you did not cut your BOTTOM piece from a t-shirt with a hem, you will need to hem your pants before proceeding…see pg.16 for details and options for this…

You now have a pair of bloomers!

Now for the fun part…the rouching…


TUTORIAL PAGE 12

Go grab your spool of elastic thread.

1. First you will need to remove your bobbin thread and replace it with a bobbin full of elastic thread. You will need to wind the bobbin by hand, gently creating a small bit of tension as you wind the thread around the bobbin. You don’t want to wind too loosely but you also don’t want to pull hard on it as you wind.

2. Insert the bobbin full of elastic back into your bobbin case.

3. Adjust your stitch length to around 5 (or your longest stitch length). The more lightweight your fabric is the more it will gather up. So if you are using a knit that is thinner than typical t-shirt jersey you may want to use a stitch length of 4, instead. Find the inseam at the bottom edge of one of your pant legs and line it up under your presser foot on your sewing machine.

4. Start sewing right alongside the inseam and all the way up to the seam where the bottom fabric meets the top fabric. (Don’t forget to back stitch well when using the elastic thread). Watch it ruffle up before your eyes…fun!


TUTORIAL PAGE 13

5. Now move over approximately 2” from that line of stitching and do the same thing. *** I just “eyeball” my lines and the space between them but if that makes you uncomfortable then it would be a good idea to first draw lines along the bottom piece with a ruler and a fabric marker or chalk as a guideline for your stitching. The lines don’t have to be perfectly spaced apart but you will have a better result if they are close to being evenly spaced.***

6. Continue making these lines of stitching all the way around each pant leg. You may find that you need to add some extra lines of stitching randomly to make sure the bottom gathers up evenly.

You may now top off the bottom of your pants with a couple of buttons or you can leave it plain…your bloomers…your look.


TUTORIAL PAGE 14

You can also top off the bottom with rouchey ruffles…

***Quick BONUS tutorial!***

This can be done by cutting a long 1” wide strip of leftover t-shirt fabric, inserting the elastic thread back into your bobbin case, set your stitch length to 5 and sew right down the center of the strip. It may take a few strips to get enough ruffles all the way around the pant legs. Then switch your bobbin back to regular thread and just sew into place along the seam line separating the top of the pants from the bottom. If you use a zig zag stitch to sew them on the pants it will give more stretch.

Let’s Sew the Beehive Bloomers (Version 2-Knit Rufflers)

1. Begin by placing 2 of your RUFFLE pattern pieces together right sides together. Pin at one of the short ends as shown.

2. Sew along the pinned edge

(see above version 1 tutorial for details on back stitching, double stitching and finishing your raw edges). Press the seam flat.


TUTORIAL PAGE 15

3. Set your sewing machine stitch length to 5 (or its longest stitch length) and sew a line of stitching ¼” from the edge all the way along the long edge.

4. You will now have 2 threads hanging from either end of your row of stitching.

5. Pull on ONE of the threads

gently to begin gathering up the fabric.

Oops…so sorry for the blurry photo… I wish I had snapped more than one!

6. Now place one of your FRONT & BACK PANTS pattern pieces with the right side facing up.

7. Place the gathered ruffle piece with the right side facing down right on top of it matching up the top edge of the ruffle piece with the bottom edge of the pant piece.

8. Pin in place making sure to

space all the gathering as evenly as possible. At either end of the ruffle piece leave about ½” un-gathered.


TUTORIAL PAGE 16

9. Set your sewing machine stitch length back down to 3 and sew the ruffle to the pants about ¼” to the left of your gathering stitches.

10. Pull your gathering stitches out for a nice clean look. Press the seam between the pants and the ruffle.

11. Repeat steps #1-10 for the other pant leg. To complete the pants follow tutorial for version 1, completing steps #6-18.

12. To hem the ruffles fold ½” of fabric all the way around the bottom towards the inside of the pants and press.

13. Fold it over one more

time and press again. Pin in place.

14. Stitch this down keeping your line of stitching about 1/8” from the inside folded edge of the fabric. When you have sewn it down all the way around the bottom of each ruffle…YOU ARE DONE! ***Special Note-To finish the hem of the pants I used a rolled hem on my serger. If you do this you will need to trim about ¾” off of the bottom of the ruffles. They are sized for a 1” hem. If you have a serger you could also serge along the bottom and fold up 1”, press & sew into place. This will give a nice finished edge without trimming.


TUTORIAL PAGE 17

C O N G R A T U L A T I O N S !

Go find your favorite little lady and show her what you just made her and watch the smile light up on her face! Great job!

I really hope that you enjoyed making LILYGIGGLE’S Beehive Bloomers. Please remember that if you have any questions or comments, please email me at

[email protected].

For more great patterns please visit my shop at www.lilygiggle.etsy.com. You can also check out my blog for upcoming designs at www.lilygiggle.com.

Happy Sewing! ~Beth

Just FYI…you can find the adorable shirt on the model above at www.vintagelucys.com and that super cute hat at www.totzhatz.etsy.com.

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Documents

How to Use This LillyGiggle Pattern - Sewing Patterns by ... · layout diagram). This is a great pattern to use recycled fabrics! When choosing t-shirts to upcycle be sure to look