29
How to: Sewing Machine HT - SM Practice, makes perfect. Neatness, and attention to detail. Having "sew" much fun. Tutorials provided Please visit www.RuthSewingRoom.com. - for great video's, sewing advise and new projects. Please visit "The Sewing Room". www.husqvarnaviking.com. - for great sewing projects, and sewing advise. Please visit www.burdastyle.com. - for great video's, sewing projects and advise. PP presentations on Glass case bag, Infants T-shirt and cushion cover compiled & sewn by L. Perryman 2012 Please read your tutorials provided, as well as explore the web sites that I have listed throughout the tutorials, as well as below. Explore your sewing machine, and refer to the tutorials, to gain more experience and confidence to enable you to tackle more complicated sewing projects. You will be required to complete the following Assignments or Tasks. The tasks you will have to accomplish are as follows: 1. Assignment 1 - Practicing threading and winding a bobbin, over and over again. Sewing a straight line sampler, as well as a full stitch sampler of all the stitches offered by your sewing machine. 2. Assignment 2 - The sewing of a "Glass Case Bag". 3. Assignment 3 - The sewing of an "Infants T-shirt". If you are feeling confident with your sewing and feel like you would love another project to do, please make use of the presentation that I have compiled on "how to construct a cushion cover with a frame". This is a fun and easy cushion project for you to make up in your own leisure time. Happy Sewing! This "How to use my Sewing Machine" course will give you a grounding in the basics of fabric knowledge, sewing machine needles, grain lines and warp and weft thread descriptions. It will also give you the confidence in threading your machine, and winding a bobbin, as well as exploring your sewing machine to it's full potential. Hopefully after completing this short course, and its assignments, you will be confident in your sewing potential to explore new sewing projects on your own. I have given you a few good web sites that you can continually browse to find new sewing projects to tackle.

How to: Sewing Machine - Style Design College · How to: Sewing Machine HT - SM Practice, makes perfect. Neatness, and attention to detail. Having "sew" much fun. ... sewing machine

Embed Size (px)

Citation preview

Page 1: How to: Sewing Machine - Style Design College · How to: Sewing Machine HT - SM Practice, makes perfect. Neatness, and attention to detail. Having "sew" much fun. ... sewing machine

How to: Sewing Machine HT - SM

Practice, makes perfect.

Neatness, and attention to detail.

Having "sew" much fun.

Tutorials provided

Please visit www.RuthSewingRoom.com. - for great video's, sewing advise and new projects.

Please visit "The Sewing Room". www.husqvarnaviking.com. - for great sewing projects, and sewing advise.

Please visit www.burdastyle.com. - for great video's, sewing projects and advise.

PP presentations on Glass case bag, Infants T-shirt and cushion cover compiled & sewn by L. Perryman 2012

Please read your tutorials provided, as well as explore the web sites that I have listed throughout the tutorials, as well as below. Explore your sewing machine, and refer to the tutorials, to gain more experience and confidence to enable you to tackle more complicated sewing projects. You will be required to complete the following Assignments or Tasks.

The tasks you will have to accomplish are as follows:

1. Assignment 1 - Practicing threading and winding a bobbin, over and over again. Sewing a straight line sampler, as well as a full stitch sampler of all the stitches offered by your sewing machine.

2. Assignment 2 - The sewing of a "Glass Case Bag".

3. Assignment 3 - The sewing of an "Infants T-shirt".

If you are feeling confident with your sewing and feel like you would love another project to do, please make use of the presentation that I have compiled on "how to construct a cushion cover with a frame". This is a fun and easy cushion project for you to make up in your own leisure time. Happy Sewing!

This "How to use my Sewing Machine" course will give you a grounding in the basics of fabric knowledge, sewing machine needles, grain lines and warp and weft thread descriptions. It will also give you the confidence in threading your machine, and winding a bobbin, as well as exploring your sewing machine to it's full potential. Hopefully after completing this short course, and its assignments, you will be confident in your sewing potential to explore new sewing projects on your own. I have given you a few good web sites that you can continually browse to find new sewing projects to tackle.

Page 2: How to: Sewing Machine - Style Design College · How to: Sewing Machine HT - SM Practice, makes perfect. Neatness, and attention to detail. Having "sew" much fun. ... sewing machine

Clear Image

Page 3: How to: Sewing Machine - Style Design College · How to: Sewing Machine HT - SM Practice, makes perfect. Neatness, and attention to detail. Having "sew" much fun. ... sewing machine

INFORMATION TO BE COVERED IN THIS HOW TO COURSE 1. The sewing room essentials 2. Choosing a sewing machine 3. Sewing stations or sewing rooms 4. Sewing room tips 5. Fabric information 6. Sewing needles 7. Parts of a sewing machine 8. How to thread a sewing machine 9. How to wind a bobbin 10. Getting to know your machine 11. Stitch examples 12. Learning to sew 13. Correcting your tension 14. x3 samples to make15. Pattern templates16. x3 Assignments to be completed

Page 4: How to: Sewing Machine - Style Design College · How to: Sewing Machine HT - SM Practice, makes perfect. Neatness, and attention to detail. Having "sew" much fun. ... sewing machine

Welcome to "HOW TO USE MY SEWING MACHINE". The aim of this "How to " course is to enable the student, number one, to get to know their sewing machine. But also to educate you on fabrics, their weights and fibres, sewing machine needles, grain lines, and correct tension of their sewing machine. All these aspects are critical in knowing your Sewing Machine. If you do not know a little about fabrics and their qualities, how can you correctly select the correct stitch, or needle for that fabric. For example, if you want to sew Cotton lycra leggings, and have bought the correct fabric, but you sew it up with a straight stitch and a normal needle....... your resulting garment will have missed stitches, and as you put that garment on your body, all the stitches will crack, and snap. Your garment will be a disaster! You should have selected a stretch stitch and a ball point needle! But with the correct knowledge, about fabrics and what needle or stitch to choose you will have a beautiful garment.

So lets start at the beginning.... Lets list all the Sewing Room essentials, or equipment you will require to make your sewing experience an enjoyable one. You will need the following:

1. Good quality, sharp fabric scissors. Preferably 8-10" in length, or depending on the size of your hand, and what is comfortable for you. 2. Dress makers pins. Not office pins, as they are blunt and too thick, and will leave holes in your fabric. 3. Tailors chalk, or pen, for marking around patterns, or notches and punch holes. 4. Tape measure, with centimeters and inches. 5. Good quality Sewing thread, with polyester core for strength. If you buy cheap thread you will become frustrated as it will continually break. 6. x3 packs of regular needles. x1 - 75 for fine fabrics/ x1 - 80 for medium wovens/ x1 - 90 for denim or heavy weight bottoms. Also x1 pack of ball point needles for stretch fabrics and lycra. 7. A metal ruler or metre ruler, for marking bindings. 8. A quilters' set square, that comes with easy markings on, for amending patterns, quilting etc. 9. A level sewing/ cutting table. 10. A good quality sewing machine with metal parts. Research all machines on the market before making a decision. Maybe get a good branded sewing machine that has less stitches, but is made by the brand name, and of metal parts that won't break easily. Always make sure that the machine comes with a cover to keep off the dust.

Clear Image

Page 5: How to: Sewing Machine - Style Design College · How to: Sewing Machine HT - SM Practice, makes perfect. Neatness, and attention to detail. Having "sew" much fun. ... sewing machine

Clear Image

Page 6: How to: Sewing Machine - Style Design College · How to: Sewing Machine HT - SM Practice, makes perfect. Neatness, and attention to detail. Having "sew" much fun. ... sewing machine

Print Form

Your 1st priority is to find agood sewing machine, if youdon't already have one. Go tobrand dealerships, like Elna,Husqvarna, Pfaff, Brother,Singer, just to name a few, tobuy your machine. You willget a good warranty, withclasses, plus available partsand a good workshop forrepairs. If you are looking for asecond hand machine, theycould help you with that too.

Make sure that you check outthe bobbin mechanism.Ensure that it has metal partsand is has a Rotary bobbinsystem and not an Oscillatingone. A rotary bobbin system isnon jamming, and has fewertension problems, when itcomes to sewing yourgarments. Remember that ifyou buy a good quality sewingmachine it will last you 20-30years of happy sewing.

If you are a beginner at sewing,I advise you buy the top of therange in the basic machines.Remember you will not be abeginner for long, and youmight need a couple of extrastitches later on. Do not buy acomplex computerized em-broidery machine, as they areextremely expensive, and willadd to your confusion. Buy asmall workhorse machine andlater an embroidery machine.

Getting Started

HT -SM-IN

Bobbin systems

Machine range

Pictures courtesy of Husqvarna Viking Sewing Machines. www.husqvarnaviking.com. accessed 26/6/2012

2010. How to Sew. available @ www.instructables.com/id/How-to-sew-using-a-sewing-machine/. 25/6/2012

Page 7: How to: Sewing Machine - Style Design College · How to: Sewing Machine HT - SM Practice, makes perfect. Neatness, and attention to detail. Having "sew" much fun. ... sewing machine

������������ ����������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� �������������������������������������������������� ���������������������������������!������"����������������������������#������������������#��������������������������������$��������������������������������������������������������������� ����������������������������������������

%������������������������������������������������������

&�'�����#�������#�������������������������������������������� ���

%�����������#��������������������������������������������(�����

������������������������)*���������� ���+�����������������������������������������

,������������������'�������������������������������

Page 8: How to: Sewing Machine - Style Design College · How to: Sewing Machine HT - SM Practice, makes perfect. Neatness, and attention to detail. Having "sew" much fun. ... sewing machine

-�����������%��������������������.�����#������������������ ����������

%����������������������������������������������'�����������������������%�����

,������������������#����������������������������������������������������������

/��������������������� �������������������� ��������������#����������������������������������������������������'�����&�������������������������#������������

$����������������������������

Page 9: How to: Sewing Machine - Style Design College · How to: Sewing Machine HT - SM Practice, makes perfect. Neatness, and attention to detail. Having "sew" much fun. ... sewing machine

%����'���� 0��,���������#�������� ����������������������0�

"�����������������#�������������������������������'��������������������

%���������� �������������������#������'����������������������������������1���������2����������������������������� ������������������ ��������$�����������������������������������������������������(���#��������������� ���

3����'���� �������������������������������������������

����������������������������������

-�������������������������������� ������������������������

Page 10: How to: Sewing Machine - Style Design College · How to: Sewing Machine HT - SM Practice, makes perfect. Neatness, and attention to detail. Having "sew" much fun. ... sewing machine

�������������������������#��� �������������������������������4��������������������� �����������������

&���������������������-��������#�����#�����������������'������������

!�5�������������������������������(����

!�����)��������� �

"�� ��������������������������������6���������������

&�������������������������������������#��������������������������������������������������

Page 11: How to: Sewing Machine - Style Design College · How to: Sewing Machine HT - SM Practice, makes perfect. Neatness, and attention to detail. Having "sew" much fun. ... sewing machine

/����������������������������������������"������������������� ��������������������������.�����������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������#����������� ���������������������������������������,��������(������������ ���������������������������������#����������� ������ ����������$��� ����������������������6��������������������������������������������������������������������������������� ���7������������������������������������������������������������������������8��!�����9�������������������������������:� �����������������������������-��6����#�������'����������������#�����9�������������������:� ������������������������������������������'�������������������������������������������-��������������������������������������������������������/���������������������������������������������(������������������������������������ ��������.������������������������ ��������0��,� ������������������9�����������������������������������9��������

&�����������������!����/����#��&����;���<�������������������������<�����������������������������*���������)*������=��� �)�����=���=*������=���� ���������%������>?)@)>AB>�

Page 12: How to: Sewing Machine - Style Design College · How to: Sewing Machine HT - SM Practice, makes perfect. Neatness, and attention to detail. Having "sew" much fun. ... sewing machine

Print Form

Helpful Tips:-

1. Make sure you have enoughlighting on your work as yousew. A goose neck lamp,whether on the desk or a floorstand one, is great to directlight where you need it most.

2. Make sure that when yoursewing machine is pluggedinto the power point, that it isnot across a walkway wherethere is a lot of people traffic. Ifyou or anyone trips over yourcord, they have the risk ofinjury, plus you could damageyour sewing machine, at greatcost to you.

3. Make sure that your tableand chair are a compatibleheight, to alleviate back andneck pain. If you are sitting toohigh, then you have thetendency to hunch your backto see your work. And if youare sitting too low, it is also notcomfortable. If the chair is toolow, always sit on a cushion forquick elevation.

Sewing Room

HT - SM - IN

2011. How to use a sewing machine. available @ www.instructables.com/id/how-to-sew-using-a-sewing-

machine/. accessed 25/6/2012

2012. The sewing room. available @ www.RuthSewingRoom.com. accessed 26/6/2012

Page 13: How to: Sewing Machine - Style Design College · How to: Sewing Machine HT - SM Practice, makes perfect. Neatness, and attention to detail. Having "sew" much fun. ... sewing machine

Print Form

Helpful tips continued.

4. It is advisable to wash allyour fabric before you use it, asit could shrink, and ruin yourgarments measurements oncemade up. If you are sewingdenim, you will need to wash ita couple of times, as the dyewill come off on your handsand your sewing machine willbe tinged blue.

5. You can pin the pieces ofyour garment together whengetting ready to sew but bevery careful when attemptingto stitch over the pins, as yourmachine needle could hit itjust right and it will break. It ismore advisable to sew up tothe pin, and then removethem one at a time as you getto them.

6. When using the blue markerpens for marking dartpositions and pocket markingsetc. it is advisable to dampen apiece of cloth, and wash it offas soon as possible, because ifleft, it could leave an unsightlymark.

HT - SM -IN

2011. Sewing room. @ www.husquvarnaviking.com/mediafiles/sewingroom/sewingroom_us.asp. 25/6/2012

Page 14: How to: Sewing Machine - Style Design College · How to: Sewing Machine HT - SM Practice, makes perfect. Neatness, and attention to detail. Having "sew" much fun. ... sewing machine

Clear Image

Page 15: How to: Sewing Machine - Style Design College · How to: Sewing Machine HT - SM Practice, makes perfect. Neatness, and attention to detail. Having "sew" much fun. ... sewing machine

Print Form

A good seamstress needs toknow the different types offabric that they will be sewingon. After all, how will you knowwhat needle to use, or whatsettings to put your machineon if you do not have someknowledge of the fabrics youwill be working with. I think itis easier to define them byweight for now, as this is theeasiest classification.

Light weight fabric:

Fabrics come in many differentweights, and since it is verytactile, lets look at sheers orlightweights. Fabrics such assilk chiffon or georgette areclassified as sheer or lightweight. They are mainly usedfor tops or blouses, and havelots of drape.

Medium weight fabric:

Cottons, and cotton/polyesterblend fabrics are mediumweight, and are usually usedfor mens and ladies shirts, orblouses.

FABRICS:

HT - SM - IN

Fabric weights

2010. Knit fabrics available @ http://www.fabknit.com/knitted-plain-fabric-single-double-jersey.htm. 6/7/2012

2009. Silk chiffon. available @ http://www.khodaysilk.com/chiffon-silk.html. 6/7/2012

2011. Cotton blends. available @ http://www.globaltextiles.com/company/detail/23301-offers.html. 6/7/2012

Page 16: How to: Sewing Machine - Style Design College · How to: Sewing Machine HT - SM Practice, makes perfect. Neatness, and attention to detail. Having "sew" much fun. ... sewing machine

Print Form

Heavy weight Fabrics:

Heavy weight fabrics areusually used for trousers, orjeans. Most upholstery fabricsare labelled as heavy weightsas they are usually brocades,and Sanderson Linens.

Bulky fabrics:

Outerwear clothing is usuallymade of bulky fabric. Think ofcoats, Brushed cotton fleecejackets, or polar fleece jackets.

"Fibre" refers to what the fabricoriginates from. Fabrics areclassified as either Natural orMan-made fibres. All Naturalfibres come from animals orplants such as wool, cotton,silk, linen, ramie, sisal and evenwood bark. Man-made fibresare either cellulose based, likerayon or viscose, that undergoa change and are thenextruded as a filament. Ortotally man-made as nylon.

Fabrics cont.

HT - SM - IN

FIBRE CONTENT

2011. www.instructables.com/id/How-to-sew-using-a-sewing-machine/. accessed 25/6/2012

Page 17: How to: Sewing Machine - Style Design College · How to: Sewing Machine HT - SM Practice, makes perfect. Neatness, and attention to detail. Having "sew" much fun. ... sewing machine
Page 18: How to: Sewing Machine - Style Design College · How to: Sewing Machine HT - SM Practice, makes perfect. Neatness, and attention to detail. Having "sew" much fun. ... sewing machine
Page 19: How to: Sewing Machine - Style Design College · How to: Sewing Machine HT - SM Practice, makes perfect. Neatness, and attention to detail. Having "sew" much fun. ... sewing machine
Page 20: How to: Sewing Machine - Style Design College · How to: Sewing Machine HT - SM Practice, makes perfect. Neatness, and attention to detail. Having "sew" much fun. ... sewing machine
Page 21: How to: Sewing Machine - Style Design College · How to: Sewing Machine HT - SM Practice, makes perfect. Neatness, and attention to detail. Having "sew" much fun. ... sewing machine
Page 22: How to: Sewing Machine - Style Design College · How to: Sewing Machine HT - SM Practice, makes perfect. Neatness, and attention to detail. Having "sew" much fun. ... sewing machine
Page 23: How to: Sewing Machine - Style Design College · How to: Sewing Machine HT - SM Practice, makes perfect. Neatness, and attention to detail. Having "sew" much fun. ... sewing machine

Print Form

These man-made fibres aremade from the waste frompetroleum. The plastic chipsare melted or dissolved in asolvent and then the liquid isextruded from a spinneret tomake filaments. Manyfilaments are spun togetherinto yarn which is then woveninto fabric.

Woven fabric, is a general termgiven to the fabricsconstruction. Fabric isgenerally either woven orknitted or matted, in the caseof felt. Woven fabric can bemade of natural or man-madefibres, and come in manyweaves.

Knitted fabric refers to theconstruction of the fabric, andcan be made from naturalfibres, man-made fibres or ablend of the two. The fabric isconstructed by interloopingyarns across the width of thefabric. Knits also come in arange of weights. "Singlejersey" is a lighter weight andhas smooth vertical wales onthe front, whilst the back hastextured horizontal lines.

Fibres cont.

HT - SM - IN

WOVEN FABRIC

KNITTED FABRIC

Page 24: How to: Sewing Machine - Style Design College · How to: Sewing Machine HT - SM Practice, makes perfect. Neatness, and attention to detail. Having "sew" much fun. ... sewing machine

Print Form

Double knits are heavier, whilstfleece is heavier still, coming inunbrushed, and brushedversions. Rib knits have verticalwales across the fabric and arevery stretchy, due to thealternating pearl and plainconstruction. Rib knits are usedto trim fleeces and singlejersey garments, as in neck ribsand cuffs.

All fabric has stretch, evenwovens, when on the bias, thatis, fabric on a 90 degree angleto the selvedge. Knit fabricshave stretch due to the natureof the knit construction.Fabrics like "lycra" used forgym wear, is a nylon blendedwith elastane. This gives thefabric a great elasticity that isgreat when used for leggingsand leotards. A ball pointneedle is needed when sewing

lycra fabric, or fabrics withelastiane in them. The Ballpoint needle maneuvers pastthe elastaine and does not tryto pierce it as a sharp needledoes.

Knits continued

HT - SM -IN

STRETCH

Page 25: How to: Sewing Machine - Style Design College · How to: Sewing Machine HT - SM Practice, makes perfect. Neatness, and attention to detail. Having "sew" much fun. ... sewing machine

Print Form

Grain line refers to the vertical threads of your fabric that run parallel to your selvedge. It is very important, when laying your pattern pieces on your fabric, to keep all the pieces on the straight grain. If you don't, your garment when made and has been washed will swing to one side. Some pattern pieces require you to place your pieces on the diagonal, but it will be stated.

The Selvedge refers to the vertical edge of your fabric. If it is a woven fabric, the selvedge is a sightly thicker area where the the weft threads are wound back on themselves in the weaving process. The selvedge is also where the fabric is gripped by metal prongs on its way to be stentered (a finishing process that aligns and straightens the grain).

Warp threads are the thicker vertical threads that are set on the weaving loom first. The weft threads, or cross threads, are then woven over and under the warp (vertical)threads to weave the fabric. Warp threads are stronger than weft threads and don't have any stretch. Weft threads have a little stretch. A 90 deg. angle to the selvedge will give you the true bias.(most stretch)

GRAIN LINE

HT - SM -IN

SELVEDGE

WARP/WEFT

2011. How to use your Sewing Machine. www.instructables.com/id/How-to-sew-using-a-sewing-machine/

accessed 25/6/2012

Page 26: How to: Sewing Machine - Style Design College · How to: Sewing Machine HT - SM Practice, makes perfect. Neatness, and attention to detail. Having "sew" much fun. ... sewing machine

The

Labe

lling

of s

ewin

g m

achi

ne

need

les

The

smal

ler t

he n

umbe

r, th

e fin

er th

e ne

edle

. Th

eref

ore

if yo

u ar

e se

win

g on

geo

rget

te, y

ou

Wou

ld u

se a

70

or 7

5 ne

edle

. If y

ou a

re s

ewin

g O

n de

nim

you

wou

ld u

se a

thic

ker

need

le, l

ike

A 9

0 or

100

.

Ever

ythi

ng y

ou n

eed

to k

now

abo

ut S

ewin

g M

achi

ne N

eedl

es, a

vaila

ble

@

Sew

ing.

abou

t.co

m/o

d/se

win

gmac

hine

inde

x/ig

/sew

ing-

mac

hine

-nee

dles

Page 27: How to: Sewing Machine - Style Design College · How to: Sewing Machine HT - SM Practice, makes perfect. Neatness, and attention to detail. Having "sew" much fun. ... sewing machine

3. T

here

is a

nee

dle

that

has

a la

rger

eye

, for

thos

e Pe

ople

who

hav

e tr

oubl

e th

read

ing

the

need

le.

4.Th

ere

are

doub

le n

eedl

es, f

or w

hen

you

are

need

ing

doub

le s

titch

ing.

No

need

to

stitc

h th

e ar

ea tw

ice.

The

re a

re v

ario

us

wid

ths

betw

een

the

need

les,

whi

ch a

llow

s yo

u to

hav

e do

uble

stit

chin

g cl

oser

or

wid

er

apar

t

Ther

e is

eve

n a

trip

le n

eedl

e, to

mak

e yo

ur

sew

ing

proj

ects

look

sup

er p

rofe

ssio

nal.

You

r tr

ouse

rs, o

r je

ans

will

look

just

like

you

r bo

ught

on

es.

Page 28: How to: Sewing Machine - Style Design College · How to: Sewing Machine HT - SM Practice, makes perfect. Neatness, and attention to detail. Having "sew" much fun. ... sewing machine

5.St

retc

h/ b

all p

oint

nee

dles

for

stre

tch

fa

bric

s, li

ke N

ylon

Lyc

ra o

r Co

tton

Lyc

ra.

6.W

ing

need

les

for

heir

loom

wor

k, d

one

on la

wn,

or

fine

cot

ton

fabr

ics.

7.Le

athe

r ne

edle

s fo

r se

win

g on

Le

athe

r ga

rmen

ts o

r ac

cess

orie

s.

Page 29: How to: Sewing Machine - Style Design College · How to: Sewing Machine HT - SM Practice, makes perfect. Neatness, and attention to detail. Having "sew" much fun. ... sewing machine

8.Re

-enf

orce

d ne

edle

s fo

r se

win

g on

den

im a

nd je

ans

fabr

ic, l

ike

heav

y tw

ills.

9.Sp

ecia

lity

embr

oide

ry n

eedl

es, t

o

Han

dle

all y

our

embr

oide

ry n

eeds

.

10.

Plea

se re

mem

ber,

that

as

a ru

le y

ou s

houl

d re

plac

e yo

ur n

eedl

e in

you

r m

achi

ne a

fter

yo

u ha

ve c

ompl

eted

eac

h pr

ojec

t or

garm

ent y

ou h

ave

finis

hed

sew

ing.

In

this

way

you

will

be

sur

e to

hav

e sh

arp

need

les,

that

don

’t g

ive

you

any

tens

ion

prob

lem

s.