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1952—How to Make Hatsby Ruby CarnahanTable of Contents5—Equipment Needed 6, 7—Description of Basic Materials 8, 9, 10—Fundamental Stitches 11—Steaming and Pressing 12—Cutting and Joining a Bias 13—How to Take Head Measurements 14—Patterns for Headsize15, 16—How to Cut Patterns 17—Making Patterns for Ready Made Frames 18, 19—Making Wire Frames 20—Fabrics Used to Cover Frames and Foundation 21, 22—Blocking Material for Covering Frames 23—Blocking a Round or a Square Crown of Elastic Net 24—
Citation preview
1952�How to Make Hats
by Ruby Carnahan
Table of Contents
5�Equipment Needed
6, 7�Description of Basic Materials
8, 9, 10�Fundamental Stitches
11�Steaming and Pressing
12�Cutting and Joining a Bias
13�How to Take Head Measurements
14�Patterns for Headsize
15, 16�How to Cut Patterns
17�Making Patterns for Ready Made Frames
18, 19�Making Wire Frames
20�Fabrics Used to Cover Frames and Foundation
21, 22�Blocking Material for Covering Frames
23�Blocking a Round or a Square Crown of Elastic Net
24�Gluing Material to Frames
25�Covering a Wire Frame
26�Sailor Pattern and its Many Variations
27�Making a Basic Sailor Frame
28, 29�Covering a Basic Sailor Frame
30�Bias Covered Basic Sailor
31�Making a Pattern of a Rolled Brim Breton Sailor
32, 33�Covering a Breton Sailor
34�Pattern for a Basic Sailor
35�Making a Pill Box Frame
36�How to Cover a Pill Box Frame
37�Pattern for Pill Box
38�Half Hat
39�Hat Anchorage
40�Non-Headsize Hat
41�Fabric Hat with Three Piece Sectional Crown and Draped
Brim. Pattern
42�Fabric Hat and Pattern
43�Fabric Bag
44�Pattern for Fabric Bag
45, 46�Hat Linings and Headbands
47�Materials Used to Make Straw Hats
48, 49�Using a Buckram Frame as a Block for a Straw Braid Hat
50�Making a Straw Braid Hat in One Piece
51, 52�Making Straw Braid Crowns and Brims on Wood Hat
Blocks
53�Making Straw Braid Pill Box on a Block
54, 55, 56�Hat Made of 5" Straw Banding
57�Blocking Rough Straw Bodies
58�Blocking a Leghorn Straw Body
59�Blocking Straw Bodies of Baku Sisal Shantung
60�Cleaning and Remodeling Straw and Fabric Hats
61, 62�Materials Used to Make Felt Hats
63�How to Block a Felt Body on a One Piece Block
64, 65�Blocking Felt Crown and Brim on Separate Blocks
66, 67�Blocking a Fur Felt Body Using Combination of a
Blocked Crown and Brim Cut from a Pattern
68, 69�Blocking a Felt Hood into a Tapered Brim
70�Crescent Felt Hat
71�Pattern for Crescent Felt Hat
72�Fringed Felt Casual Hat
73�Pattern for Fringed Felt Casual Hat
74�Fringed Felt Bag
75�Pattern for Fringed Felt Bag
76, 77�Felt Pattern Hat a Three Piece Crown and Felt Brim
78, 79�Pattern for Felt Hat Three Piece Crown
80�Felt Pattern Hat
81�Pattern for Felt Hat
82�Berets
83, 84�Beaded Velvet Beret
85, 86�Pattern for Beaded Beret
87�Beaded Velvet Bag to Match Beret
88�Pattern for Beaded Velvet Bag
89, 90�Wool Felt Beret
91�Pattern for Small Beret
92, 93�Stitched Beret and Matching Bag
94�Stitched Bag to Match Beret
95, 96�Beret Made of Wool Material
97�Child's Beret of Felt
98�Pattern for Child's Beret
99�Sectional Beret
100, 101, 102�Pattern for Sectional Beret
103, 104�Stitched Casual Hat and Bag
105�Stitched Casual Hat
106�Pattern for Stitched Casual Hat
107, 108, 109, 110�Stitched Bag to Match Casual Hat
111, 112�Pattern for Stitched Bag
113, 114�Casual Ribbon Hat
115�Pattern for Ribbon Hat
116�Ribbon Bag
117�Pattern for Ribbon Bag
118�Flowered Hat
119, 120�Helmet
121�Calot (open or closed crown)
122, 151�Pattern for Calot
123�Scalloped Calot
124�Pattern for Scalloped Calot
125, 126�Turbans
127, 128�Fur Hats
129�Pattern for Fur Brim
130�Maline Pom Pom
131�Pattern for Maline Pom Pom
132�Hat Trimmings and their Application
133, 134�How to Apply Trimmings
135�Self Trimmings
136�Patterns for Trimmings
137�Ribbon Ornaments
138, 139�Ribbon Bows
140�Ribbon Cocarde
141�Hat Pins
142�Wedding Veils
143�Bridesmaid Hats
144�Fabric Covered Buckles
145�Patterns for Buckles
146, 147�Pique or Felt Bonnet
148, 149�Pattern for Bonnet
150�Cleaning and Remodeling Methods
152, 153�Pattern for Hand Bag
Equipment Needed
STEAMER
Steam is required for
every type of hat made. An electric steamer made especially for
Millinery is very desirable, however a teakettle with a steam spout
does very well (Illus. I).
IRON
A plain iron may be used with a damp cloth to steam press. A steam iron is used extensively
by many for steam pressing (Illus. 2). Steam
irons become coated with lime, often making
them almost useless, unless they are cleaned by putting 1/4 cup of
vinegar and 1/2 cup of water in iron and letting it steam through iron. Then pour out and put in a cup of vinegar and let iron stand for
a while to remove all the lime deposit. Pour off and fill your iron with
distilled water, ready for use.
UTILITY HEAD BLOCK
Utility head block No. 796 (Illus. 3) in your headsize is necessary for steaming and blocking
crowns. If you intend to make hats for others, it
will be necessary to have the headblocks in sizes
and half sizes from 21 to 23 inclusive.
UTILITY BRIM BLOCK
The most practical brim block to have is Utility Brim Block No. 1514x (Illus. 4) in the 6"
brim. This block may be had
in a 4" brim also. One side of
the brim block is flat for blocking flat brims, the other side of block is
curved for blocking Bretons or for a mushroom brim. Head band
block on this brim block is movable (Illus. 5), making it possible for
the headsize to be changed to any size, by applying correct headsize
band block on brim. Order brim block in your correct headsize.
HEADBAND BLOCKS
Headband blocks may be had in all headsizes.
MAKING YOUR OWN BLOCK
Use a ready-made frame, or a frame you have made, reinforced with frame wire around brim edge and headsize, also
reinforce the brim front, back and sides with wire braces. Have all
wiring on under side of blocking side. When frame has been satisfactorily reinforced with wire, paint frame with a preparation
called U-Block-lt and let frame dry. Then proceed to block over
frame just as you would block over a wooden block, using push pins,
etc. Frames prepared in this manner cannot be used near heat or a flame (this warning is printed on the can of U-Block-lt). Dip the felt
in hot water and roll in a towel to wring dry, then place the felt over
the block and stretch and smooth felt, pinning as you stretch. Allow
felt to dry on block. You will find this method of using hot water on
felt will be just as satisfactory as if felt were wrapped in a damp towel for several hours and then steamed and stretched on block.
Description of Basic Material Used in Millinery
ELASTIC NET (ILLUS. 1)
A coarse mesh material.
Used for making frames cut from patterns, or can be steamed and blocked into a frame.
Sold by the yard in black or white.
BUCKRAM (ILLUS. 2)
A very stiff material also used for frame making, and for foundation for trimmings, such as buckles and various other fabric-covered ornaments.
Sold by the yard in black or white.
WILLOW (ILLUS. 3)
A material much like buckram, a little finer grade than buckram and used to better advantage for molding on blocks or on wire frames when copying a hat.
Sold by the sheet in cream color.
HONEY COMB (ILLUS. 4)
A cotton (coarse) mesh material, slightly sized, used for turban or crown foundations, or where some stiffness is required.
Sold by the yard in black, white and some colors.
CRINOLINE (ILLUS. 5)
A light weight fine mesh material, often used with honey comb when making turban foundations. Use a layer of honey comb and then a layer of crinoline.
Sold by the yard in black and white.
SIZED CHIFFON (ILLUS. 6)
A sheer stiff material also used like crinoline or horiey comb. This material also can be steamed and molded for turban foundations. Often used for hat linings.
Sold by the yard in black, white and some colors.
HEADSIZE RIBBONS (ILLUS. 7)
Saw-tooth grosgrain ribbon No. 5 is used for head bands. This ribbon will keep its shape when it has been swirled or blocked before sewing in hat headsize.
Black, grey or brown are standard colors for winter hats, white or blue for summer hats. Recently, bright contrasting colored headbands in hats have been very popular, for both summer and winter hats.
PAPER COVERED WIRE
Available in several weights. Heavy weight wire is used for wiring buckram frames. Light weight wire is used for wiring facings, etc. Sold in rolls in black and white.
SILK COVERED WIRE
Available in several weights. Heavy weight wire is used for making wire frames and for wiring straw hat brims. Where wire will be visible, silk covered wire can be dyed to match the color of any material. Light weight silk wire is used for wiring lace bows, etc. Sold in some colors and black and white.
STEEL WIRE
Used for sailor brims or any brim which is to be perfectly flat; steel wire will not bend.
RIBBON WIRE
Used to wire ribbon for bows. Sold in black and white.
TIE WIRE
Used for tying cross wires when making a wire frame. Also used for branching flowers and tying loops of ribbon bows together. Sold in green, white and black.
WIRE JOINERS
Used to join ends of wire. A small hollow metal tube, about one-half inch long.
STRAW SIZING AND FELT SIZING
Sizing is used as a stiffener for straw and felt hats. However there are two kinds of sizing, straw sizing is used for straw, and felt sizing is used for felts. Hats steamed and blocked of straw or of felt, must be thoroughly dry before sizing is applied. If more stiffness is desired, a second coat of sizing may be applied after first coat of sizing is dry.
There is an all purpose sizing on the market which may be used for either straw or felt.
OTHER EQUIPMENT • SANDPAPER FOR CLEANING FELTS
• HEAVY PAPER FOR PATTERNS
• TISSUE PAPER FOR PATTERNS
• SMALL PAINT BRUSH FOR APPLYING SIZING
• SOFT BRUSH
• WHISK BROOM
• WIRE JOINERS
• MILLINERY GLUE
• FELT SIZING
• STRAW SIZING
• BLACK AND WHITE PAPER-COVERED WIRE
• BLACK AND WHITE SILK-COVERED WIRE
• STEEL WIRE
• BLACK AND WHITE RIBBON WIRE
• TIE WIRE
• SMALL PADDED BOARD FOR PRESSING
• PRESSING PADS AND CLOTHS
• ASSORTED MILLINERY NEEDLES, NO. 3 - NO. 9
• TAPE MEASURE
• THIMBLE
• PENCIL
• TAILOR'S CHALK
• PINS
• RULER
• SCISSORS
• MILLINERY THREAD NO. 24 IN BLACK AND WHITE
• HEAVY DUTY THREAD NO. 40 IN COLORS
• CORD FOR TYING MATERIALS ON BLOCKS
• PUSH PINS FOR PINNING MATERIALS ON BLOCKS
• NIPPERS FOR CUTTING WIRE.
HAT LABELS
Individual names on tapes to sew in the headband in crown of hats, may be purchased from any of the
Millinery Supply Houses. They are made to order, and require several weeks for delivery. Sold by the hundred and cost is nominal.
Fundamental Stitches Used in Millinery
PRACTICE STITCHES
Neat even stitches and faultless workmanship is required to make a professional looking hat. Every stitch must be practiced
until perfection is achieved. It is necessary to know where and
when to use the different stitches when making a hat which can
only be learned by continuous practice and application.
PICK STITCH
Pick stitch is a tiny even stitch about 1/16" apart. Used on some brim edges and around crowns.
FURRING STITCH
Used to join felt or fur edges together. Hold two edges of felt together and sew over and over. When seam is finished it will be flat and almost invisible.
TIE STITCH
Used to fasten trimmings and veilings on hat. Slip needle through material at No. 1 and bring needle back through at No. 2, tie ends and clip thread close to where you have thread tied.
BASTING STITCH
Take one small stitch and then a long stitch for basting. When removing the basting stitches clip
the thread in a long stitch in several places and pull threads out, instead of trying to pull entire basting thread out.
SLIP STITCHING
Slip stitching is used where invisible sewing is desired on facings and folds, etc. Begin slip stitch by taking a tiny stitch through material and then a long stitch through turned edge of fold.
RUNNING STITCH
This is the simplest stitch used in sewing, and is used where a strong stitch is unnecessary, for example, gathering shirring and tucking. To make stitches, pass the needle through material, taking several small stitches at a time, before drawing needle through material.
SHIRRING
Use running stitches making them the same length on both sides. Continue making stitches until you have finished the row, then draw material together to form even gathering.
OVERCASTING STITCH
Used to sew down edges of material and to apply wire in some places. Sew with close straight stitches, bringing the needle over and over toward you. Do not take stitches too deep or draw thread too tight.
BUTTON HOLE STITCH
Used to sew wire on frames, etc. Take several over casting stitches then bring needle down to right depth from wrong side having thread behind the eye and under the point of the needle.
CROSS STITCH
Used to hold down raw edges of material and to sew in name labels. Work from left to right crossing threads at each stitch.
BACK STITCH
Used to sew two pieces of material together where strength is required. The needle is inserted at the end of the last stitch and brought out the length of a stitch farther on.
Steaming and Pressing
PRESSING SEAMS, DARTS, ETC. (ILLUS. 1)
Use a pressing cloth over seams,
dampen seam with a sponge, press lightly, lifting cloth up quickly to allow steam to
escape.
STEAMING VELVET OR OTHER PILE FABRIC WITH A STEAM IRON (ILLUS. 2)
Hold steaming iron just above material, on the wrong side, allowing only steam to
touch material. Never let iron touch
material.
STEAMING VELVET OR OTHER PILE FABRIC WITH A PLAIN IRON (ILLUS. 3)
Stand a hot iron on end and
cover iron with a damp cloth. Pass
wrong side of velvet over steaming cloth on iron. Do not hold velvet too tightly as finger marks will
show.
STEAMING STRAW BRAID ON FRAME (ILLUS. 4)
Baste straw braid to frame and gently pass frame through steam for a
few seconds. Keep turning frame while
steaming. Be careful not to use too
much steam when steaming on a frame. Too much steam will cause frame
to collapse.
STEAMING STRAW BRAID ON A BLOCK (ILLUS. 5)
Pin straw braid on block, press braid gently with a steam iron. Let straw braid
dry on block. Some braids must be
pressed under a pressing cloth.
STEAMING AND PRESSING FELTS
Steam felt crowns over a teakettle when blocking. Use a steam iron, or a damp cloth and
iron, to steam, stretch and flatten a felt brim. Place felt brim on
pressing board and cover with a damp cloth, press with a hot
iron lifting cloth and iron when felt becomes soft and pliable enough to stretch with your fingers. Continue in this manner
until felt is stretched sufficiently. (Illus. 6)
Cutting and Joining a Bias
CUTTING A BIAS (ILLUS. 1)
For a true bias, fold material so that the crosswise thread
meets the lengthwise thread, or selvedge of material. Fold and
cut the material as shown in illustration.
A BIAS JOINING (ILLUS. 2)
Join bias by sewing seam as shown in illustration, cut off small pointed ends at
seam edge. Steam seam
open.
CUTTING A BIAS FOLD (ILLUS. 3)
When finishing edge of hat brim with a
bias fold, cut fold length to fit around edge of brim, with only one joining. Join ends
of bias fold on the bias. Cut fold 1/2"
wider than the desired width for finished
fold. (Stretching a bias in length reduces its width).
How to Take Head Measurements
MEASURING AROUND HEAD (ILLUS. 1)
Hats that fit the head are called headsize hats. Exact headsize measurements
are required when making headsize hats.
Start with tape line at center of forehead on hair line. Run tape line around head, under
bulge at back of head and back to front to
meet tape line again. This measurement is
your correct head-size. Average headsize measurements range
from 21" to 23" in half sizes.
MEASURING HEAD FROM BACK TO FRONT (ILLUS. 2)
Decide where you will wear hat, back or
forward on head. Mark and start tape line on mark, run tape line over top of head and just
over bulge on back of head. This is the back
to front measurement and usually measures
9 1/2" to I0 1/2".
MEASURING HEAD FROM SIDE TO SIDE (ILLUS. 3)
Start tape line where edge of headsize
will start over ears and run tape line over
head to same point on opposite side over ear. This is the side to side measurement
and usually measures 10" to 10 1/2".
NON-HEADSIZE HAT MEASUREMENTS
Non-headsize hats fit any size head.
Head sizes measure from 18" to 21" dependent on style trend.
A season when non-headsize hats are very fashionable, they become very extreme, are perched high
on the head with a 12" headsize. The smaller the hat the smaller
the headsize on non-headsize hats.
Headsize Pattern
Trace each headsize pattern and make individual patterns
of heavy cardboard. Always use your correct headsize pattern.
Bottom of utility block can be usedf to block headsize.
Remember�bottom of head block is 1" smaller than top.
How to Cut Patterns
SAILOR BRIM PATTERN
Take a square of paper the diameter of the hat from back to
front. (Illus. 1) Fold paper in half and fold again in quarters, (Illus. 2) forming a square one fourth size of original square.
Fold square of paper diagonally (Illus. 3) fold after fold, (Illus. 4)
until the shortest length appears on top (Illus. 5). Cut off ends
as marked (Illus. 6), then open paper and it will be a circle of
paper (Illus. 7); use this circle for the brim pattern.
SAILOR WITH AN EVEN BRIM
Trace your exact headsize pattern on page 14
and cut out of paste board. Place this
headsize pattern in center of brim pattern and draw a line
around headsize on brim pattern, cut out headsize on this line. Measure width of brim desired, from head-size to brim edge and
draw a line around brim. Cut off excess on this line. Mark back
and front on pattern.
SHORT BACKED SAILOR
Start with a circle paper pattern, mark
exact width brim is to be in back from edge of brim to headsize. Place your correct
headsize pattern on this line, extending
headsize pattern toward the front
(Illus. 9) Measure each side of brim from edge of headsize pattern to edge of
brim. Be sure the headsize pattern is in the
center of the brim pattern. Mark around headsize pattern on brim pattern and cut out
headsize on this line. Mark back and front of brim on pattern.
SAILOR CROWN
Use your correct headsize pattern for top of crown pattern.
The side crown is a bias piece the length of headsize measurement, with a 2" allowance for lapping ends. Width of
bias side crown piece is determined by height crown is to be.
NON-HEADSIZE SAILOR
Start with sailor brim pattern and use your correct headsize
Utility Block No. 796 to mark headsize on pattern. Place bottom
of block in center of pattern for an even brim or back for a short
back and draw a line around bottom of block on pattern, just as
you did when using headsize pattern. The bottom of Utility Block is 1" smaller than your headsize and is oval in shape. Size of
headsize can be reduced from there if desired.
Making Patterns for Ready Made Frames
BRIM PATTERNS
Cut a circle of paper larger than frame and pin to under side of frame, easing paper in to fit frame, pinning in darts or adding
gores where needed. Draw a line around brim edge and head-
size on paper pattern. Mark back and front of pattern. Remove
pattern, cut off excess if darts have been pinned in or mark
where gores are needed and pin in extra pieces. Cut off excess paper on line around edge of brim and around headsize. When
cutting material from pattern allow 1/2" on material. Mark back
and front on pattern.
CROWN PATTERNS
Cut a circle of paper larger than top of crown and pin to crown, back, front and sides. Draw a line on paper around edge
of crown, remove paper from crown and cut on line. Side crown
is a bias piece. Allow 1/2" when cutting material.
ROUND CROWN PATTERN
When covering a buckram frame that has a round crown with a fabric such as velvet, satin, wool or pique, cut a paper
pattern to fit crown.
TO CUT PATTERN
Pin a strip of paper 3" wide to center of buckram crown
from headsize in back to headsize in front. Pin a piece of paper
on side of crown to fit side crown and pin to center strip of
paper. Trim off all excess paper. Mark back and front of pattern
Use this pattern to cut material for covering round crown.
BLOCKING MATERIAL FOR ROUND CROWN
When using a material that stretches to cover a round
crown, a pattern is not needed, as material is stretched, steamed and blocked on utility head block, allowed to dry and
then removed from block and placed on buckram crown.
Instructions on Page 21.
MAKING A BERET PATTERN (ILLUS. 1 AND 2)
A Beret is two brims
put together and a
headsize cut in the facing brim. When you learn to
use this simple method,
you can make a pattern of any type Beret, also using your own
individuality in styling Beret. Brim can be square, round,
scalloped, darts taken in brim, etc. Any of these suggestions will change the style of the Beret.
Cut two circles of paper a little larger than Beret is to be. Place your correct headsize pattern in center or toward the back
(depending on whether Beret is to have an even brim or a short
back brim), draw a line around headsize pattern on paper
pattern facing. If darts have been taken on pattern, mark on
pattern. Pin pattern together in back and slip facing pattern on Utility block. Pin top paper circle to facing around brim edge. Try
pattern and make any necessary adjustments. Cut off all excess
paper on brim edge or on darts if any. Be sure brims fit exactly,
when pattern is unpinned. Mark back and front of pattern on top
and facing of pattern.
Making Wire Frames
PRACTICE WITH WIRE AND NIPPERS
Wire frames have many uses and can be
purchased in the Millinery Supply House. However it is wise to know how to make a wire frame as
sometimes it is impossible to find the style of
frame wanted. You will find this knowledge
valuable when making alterations that require wire
changes. Much practice is needed in the use of nippers and wire before you really make a frame.
(Illus. 1) Practice until you can turn one wire over
another securely and silk on wire is not damaged and no point is
felt where wire is cut off. Frame wires must be immovable when
frame is finished. Also practice using tie wire. There are two ways to make a wire frame, by measurement or over a buckram
frame for guide. When making a wire frame over a buckram
frame, start at headsize, fitting wires to exactly fit frame, turning
and tying wires as above. When round brim wire is on and
support wires have been turned over, remove wire frame from buckram frame.
SUPPORT BRIM WIRES
(Illus. 2) Support wires on brim include
center wire from back to front, support wires
from side to side, and diagonal support wires left side and diagonal support wires right
side.
ROUND BRIM WIRES
Round wires on brim include circumference edge wire,
head-size wire and several divisional wires depending on size of frame.
MAKING FRAME FROM MEASUREMENTS
(Illus. 3) For brim cut out two headsize
wires to fit head (Illus.
3a), lap ends of wire and tie with tie wire.
Cut eight support wires. Start in center of headsize wire (Illus. 3b) turn front support wire over headsize wire, pinch securely
with nippers.
Place second headsize wire 1" below first headsize wire and turn front support wire over this headsize wire and pinch
together with nippers (Illus. 3c). Then add back support wire and
side support wires in the same way (Illus. 3d). Between these
support wires add diagonal support wires in the same way (Illus. 3e).
ROUND BRIM WIRES
Cut round wires, place over suppprt wires an even distance apart, and tie wire each place where divisional wire crosses
round wire. Turn support wires over brim wire. Pinch with
nippers until
secure.
ROUND CROWN AND SQUARE CROWN
(Illus. 4) Cut four support wires correct length, tie together in center securely (Illus. 4a) with tie wire and spread support
wires. Cut three round wires and place each one over the spread
support wires an even distance apart and tie with tie wire at
each place support wire crosses round wire (Illus. 4b). Measure wire for bottom crown correct size and turn support wires over
round wire and pinch with nippers until secure (Illus. 4c). Square
crown is made the same as round crown, only support wires are
bent at crown edge and round wire is tied at bend.
FABRICS USED TO COVER FRAMES AND FOUNDATIONS
• VELVET
• MOIRE
• SATIN
• CREPE
• JERSEY
• STRAW CLOTH
• BROCADE
• TWEED
• LAME
• WOOLEN MATERIALS
• TAFFETA
• COTTON MATERIALS
ALL OF THE ABOVE MATERIALS AND MANY MORE ARE
USED TO COVER FRAMES AND FOUNDATIONS.
VELVET HAS A NAP. ALWAYS CUT EACH PIECE OF
VELVET WITH THE NAP RUNNING IN THE SAME DIRECTION.
SATIN AND MANY OTHER MATERIALS THAT HAVE A
SHEEN SHOULD BE CUT WITH EACH PIECE RUNNING THE SAME WAY, TO PREVENT MATERIAL COLORS FROM
APPEARING DIFFERENT.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR COVERING FRAMES AND
FOUNDATIONS ARE GIVEN ON FOLLOWING PAGES.
Blocking Material for Covering Frames
BLOCKING MATERIAL FOR COVERING FRAMES
This requires material which can be stretched. Often an entire hat�crown, brim and facing�can be covered with one
piece of blocked material. If a large frame is to be covered,
crown and top brim may be covered with one piece of material and a bias facing used to cover under side of brim. This method
of covering a frame does not require a pattern. Only used with
stretchable material.
MATERIAL REQUIRED
• Utility block No. 796 in correct headsize
• 1/2 yard of material
• Straw cloth, jersey or any other stretchable material
BLOCKING
(Illus. 1) Place 1/2 yard of material on block with a corner of
material in front. Pin material down to
block in front, back and on each side.
Steam over a teakettle, pulling and pinning material to extreme bottom of
block until material is free from
wrinkles and fits smoothly around bottom of block. Use
ordinary straight pins to pin material to block (push pins
may leave holes in material stretched to the extent that this method requires). Wear a thimble to push straight
pins into block. After pin is pushed through material into
block, bend pin down flat. Let dry and mark front on
material before removing material from block.
FITTING MATERIAL TO FRAME
(Illus. 2) Place blocked material on crown of frame,
pinning the front of material to the front of frame. Smooth material and pin all around bottom of crown, then sew
material to bottom of crown with tiny pick stitches, very
close together. Pull material out over brim and pin
material to brim edge (Illus. 3). Sew around brim edge
with tiny close-together pick stitches. If frame is small enough to be covered in one piece, pull material in to
headsize on under side of frame and sew around inside of
crown (Illus. 4). Cut off excess material around headsize.
USING A SEPARATE BRIM FACING
Steam and block material as
directed and use for crown and top of brim. After sewing
blocked material around bottom of crown and over edge of
brim, cut off excess material around brim just outside of sewing (Illus. 5). Cut a bias piece of material 2" wider
than brim facing measures. (Illus. 6) Pin this bias piece of
material around edge of brim, stretching material to fit
smooth and tight. Pin ends together, making a bias seam.
Remove bias piece from brim, stitch and press seam open and replace on brim with seam In back. Again pin facing
around edge of brim.
WIRING BRIM EDGE
(Illus. 7) Fit a wire around edge
of brim and join with a wire joiner.
Remove a few pins at a time from facing on brim edge, turn material
over wire and repin to brim edge.
Continue until facing has been turned over wire and
pinned all around edge of brim. Sew facing to brim under
wire using a back stitch. Pull facing in at headsize and sew to frame around headsize. Cut off any excess material and
finish headsize with a lining and headband.
Instructions for linings and headbands on page 45.
Blocking a Round or a Square Crown of Elastic Net
BLOCKING SQUARE CROWN
Use the small end of Utility Head Block. Fit a heavy piece of cardboard over small end of block, and fasten cardboard to block
with Scotch tape. Wet felt, and block.
BLOCKING ROUND CROWN
Use the large end of Utility Head Block. Use same method for blocking both crowns.
CUTTING CROWN (ILLUS. 1)
Cut a square of elastic net 14" x 15"
and dampen thoroughly. Place on crown block, pin to block, front, back and sides.
Have a point of net on either side of front and back.
STEAMING CROWN (ILLUS. 2)
Hold block over steam and pull each
corner of elastic down and pin to bottom of
block. Tie a blocking cord tight around block. Mark back and front of crown and let dry on
block.
TRIMMING OFF BOTTOM OF CROWN (ILLUS. 3)
Measure and mark depth of crown on net. Slip a corset stay or a nail file under
edge of net to loosen crown from block, and
remove crown. Cut off excess net around bottom of crown on mark.
WIRING CROWN (ILLUS. 4)
Measure a wire to fit bottom of crown
and join ends of wire with a wire joiner. Sew
wire around bottom of crown, using a button hole stitch. Cut a 2" bias strip of crinoline
(stretch bias strip of crinoline before using),
fold over wired edge of crown and baste crinoline to net.
Gluing Material to Frames
GLUING MATERIAL TO FRAMES
Use Milliner's Glue when gluing materials. Milliner's Glue can be purchased at any Millinery Supply House. Apply glue with
a small paint brush: some brands of glue have a brush in glue
container.
HOW TO GLUE MATERIAL TO FRAME
Cover surface of frame where material is
to be applied with glue
and allow to stand about
five minutes. Then apply
another coat of glue to frame and firmly smooth material over glued surface, pressing
and smoothing a small area at a time (Illus. 2). Be sure material
has adhered to frame on each space glued, before going on to
the next space. When all material has been glued to frame, allow
to dry thoroughly.
GLUING MATERIALS TOGETHER
When gluing any kind of fabrics together, put the glue on both pieces of fabric and press glued sides together.
TESTING MATERIALS TO BE GLUED
It is wise to first test materials to be glued. Cut a small piece of elastic net and apply glue, then cut a small piece of
material to be glued and smooth material over glued elastic net.
Let dry. If material will not take glue, spots will appear on
sample when dry.
Covering a Wire Frame
METHOD FOR COVERING PLAIN WIRE FRAME
(Illus. 1) If a sheer material is used to cover a wire frame, the wire frame can be
dyed the same color as the material with Rit
Dye. This will eliminate winding the frame
wire. With the exception of the wire on brim edge, the wire is
wound. Use the same method as used for covering buckram
frames, cutting brim covering from a pattern, pinning top brim
fabric to brim, and sewing to brim wire, then pin facing to under side of brim around edge and at headsize. Finish brim edge with
a bias fold or with wired velvet tubing.
BIAS FOLD
Cut a 2'" bias strip of material, (either velvet or matching
material). Fold bias strip double and place over wire on brim edge, stretch bias piece and pin all around brirn, join ends of
bias strip and make a bias seam. Remove, stitch,and press seam
open. Return to brim again pinning fold all around edge of brim.
Turn raw edges of fold under 1/4" on each side and slip stitch.
VELVET TUBING
Measure two wires to fit edge of brim, run each wire through a piece of velvet tubing and stretch velvet tubing on
wire. Join wire with a wire joiner, turn one edge under and lap
stretched velvet tubing ends and sew together neatly. Pin tubing
around brim edge and slip stitch. Place tubing on top edge of brim and one on facing of brim.
METHOD OF WINDING WIRE FRAME
Cut 1" strips of veiling or maline the same color as material used for hat. Start in back and wind each wire as illustrated.
COVERING WIRE FRAME ON THE BIAS
Run a tape line from top at headsize to brim edge and continue over edge of brim to headsize on facing. Add 2" to this
measurement and cut a bias piece of material width of this
measurement. Fold bias piece double and place over wire on
edge of brim. Stretch and pin around edge of brim and join ends
together with a bias seam. Remove from brim and sew together. Press seam open. Put back over wire brim, steam and stretch
top and bottom into headsize until free from wrinkles. Pin and
sew top and bottom separately around headsize.
Sailor Pattern and its Many Variations
The preceding pages teach you how to cut sailor patterns. The following hats all start with the Sailor pattern.
CLOCHE (ILLUS. 1)
Use sailor pattern cut open in back, lapping one side of brim over the other until
desired scoop is attained. Allow 2" for
lapping. Measure desired brim width and cut off excess material around brim edge.
MUSHROOM (ILLUS. 2)
Mushroom is a sailor slashed at even
intervals and small gores added around edge
of brim and rolled down to form a scooped brim edge.
BRETON SAILOR (ILLUS. 2)
A Breton Sailor brim is made the same as a mushroom brim
only the brim is turned up.
TRICORN (ILLUS. 3)
A Tricorn is a sailor turned up on three sides.
BICORN (ILLUS. 4)
A Bicorn is a sailor turned up across
the front.
PROFILE HAT (ILLUS. 5)
A Profile hat is a sailor turned up on the
side.
PILL BOX (ILLUS. 6)
A Pill Box is a sailor crown.
BERET (ILLUS. 7)
A Beret is two sailor brims sewn together around edge of brim and a headsize
cut in the facing brim.
Making a Basic Sailor Frame
MATERIAL REQUIRED
• 1/2 yard of elastic net
• frame wire
• wire joiners
• heavy thread No. 24
DESCRIPTION
Make a sailor frame pattern following instructions on page 15. Or use the sailor frame pattern in book on page
34. Always remember to use your correct headsize when
making a pattern.
SAILOR BRIM
Place pattern on elastic net and
mark around
pattern brim and headsize (Illus. 1.
Cut out brim edge on line drawn, do
not cut out headsize. (Illus. 2) Slash inside headsize line
from back to front, and from side to side and then slash
every 1/2" around headsize. Bend elastic net segments back 1" to line around headsize and cut off excess. Mark
back and front of brim.
SAILOR CROWN
Place crown tip pattern on elastic net, mark around
pattern and cut out crown tip on line. Cut a bias piece of elastic net for side crown. The width of bias piece will
depend on height of crown, usually 2" to 2 3/4". Mark
back and front of crown.
WIRING SAILOR FRAME
(Illus. 3) Cut a wire to fit sailor
brim and join ends of wire with a wire joiner. Sew wire on edge of brim frame using a button
hole stitch. Cut two pieces of wire to fit crown tip and join
ends of wire with a wire joiner. Sew one wire on edge of
crown tip (Illus. 4). Hold one edge of bias elastic net, bias
side crown, to wired crown tip. (Illus. 5) Overcast side crown to crown tip, lapping ends of side crown in back and
sew. Sew wire around bottom of side crown using a button
hole stitch.
BINDING WIRED EDGES OF FRAME
(Illus. 6 and 7) Cut bias strips of crinoline 2" wide
(stretch before using), fold over
wired edges and baste to frame.
SEWING CROWN AND BRIM TOGETHER
Match markings on crown and
brim, slip crown over headsize on brim
and sew together (Illus. 8).
Instructions for covering frames page
28.
Covering a Basic Sailor Frame
DESCRIPTION
Use the same sailor pattern for cutting fabric
covering that you used to make sailor frame.
Instructions for making frame page 27.
If covering a ready-made frame, make a paper pattern of frame and use to cut fabric covering.
MATERIAL REQUIRED
• 1/2 yard of material is required to cover a sailor frame if edge of brim is to be finished with a wire.
• 3/4 of a yard is required if brim is to be finished with a bias fold.
• Lining and ribbon headband.
CUTTING MATERIAL
(Illus. 1) Place brim pattern on
bias of material and mark around brim
edge and headsize. Allow 1/2" on brim edge when cutting
out material. (Do not cut material out on line around
headsize). Slash material inside the line from back to front and from side to side, and every half inch around headsize
just to the line. Mark back and front. Cut out two brim
pieces just alike.
COVERING BRIM
Put brim piece on top of frame brim, pulling it over the frame crown
and down on brim.
Match front and
back markings on
frame and material (Illus. 2). Extend material 1/2" on brim edge. Turn
material over brim edge 1/2". Pin and sew to under side of
frame (Illus. 3), catching material to frame. Place facing
piece of material on under side of brim, match markings
on frame and material and extend material 1/2" on brim edge. Pin facing to frame around brim edge and headsize.
FINISHING BRIM EDGE
Measure a wire to fit around edge
of brim and join with a wire joiner.
Turn edge of facing material over wire, slightly stretching material until facing
is smooth, and free from wrinkles. Pin facing around edge
of brim and sew to frame under wire, using a back stitch
(Illus. 4). If there seems to be too much material to turn
over wire, trim off excess amount before turning material over wire.
FINISHING BRIM EDGE WITH A BIAS FOLD
(Illus. 5) Cut a bias piece of
material 3" wide, stretch and pin
this bias fold around edge of brim
wrong side out. Join ends of fold together on the bias.
Remove fold from brim, stitch and press seam open.
With seam on fold in back, pin edge of fold right
side out on edge of brim and sew to brim using a
back stitch.
Turn fold over edge of brim and pin around brim
edge, turn raw edge of fold under. Pin fold to facing
on under side of brim. Sew fold to facing using a slip
stitch.
COVERING CROWN
Place crown pattern on the
bias of material, mark around
pattern on material. Mark front of
crown on material and allow 1/2" when cutting out
material (Illus. 6).
Place material on crown top
with mark in front. Pin front, back
and sides of material to crown,
stretching material slightly as you pin. Turn material
over crown edge 1/2" and sew to side crown (Illus.
7).
COVERING SIDE CROWN
(Illus. 8) Measure the depth of
side crown on frame, and cut a bias
piece of material 2" wider than side
crown measures. Stretch and pin bias piece around
top of crown and join ends together on the bias.
Remove bias piece from crown. Stitch and press seam
open. Turn bias piece to right side and slip over
crown. Turn material under 1" around top of crown
and turn balance of material up around bottom of
crown.
Do not sew material around top or bottom of
crown.
Finish headsize with a lining and a
swirled ribbon headband.
Instructions for linings and
headbands page 45.
Bias Covered Basic Sailor
Make a basic sailor frame (page 27) or use a ready made sailor frame. A bias
covered basic sailor requires half to three
quarters of a yard of material for covering
frame, depending on size of frame. Cover crown and brim
separately, then sew crown to brim.
TOP OF CROWN
Cut a 10" square of material to fit top crown, having one point of material in front and pin front back and sides to top of
crown, stretching material as you pin. Turn material over edge of
crown 1/2" and sew to side crown. Cut off excess material around crown under stitching.
SIDE CROWN
Cut a bias piece of material 2" wider than frame side crown
measures. Pin one edge of bias piece around top of crown
stretching bias as you pin. Pin ends together on the bias, remove from crown, stitch and press seam open. Return bias piece to
side crown with seam in back. Turn material under 1" around top
of crown, balance of material turn over bottom edge of crown
and sew to inside of crown. Mark back and front of crown.
BIAS BRIM
Measure a bias piece to fit around brim, fold in
half lengthwise and turn
over brim. Stretch and pin to fit brim. Pin bias ends together,
remove from brim, stitch and press seam open. Fold bias
lengthwise and return to brim (be sure brim edge is in center of
fold). Pin around brim edge (Illus. 1). Pull top of material into
headsize and sew (Illus. 2), then remove pins on brim edge and pull material on facing into headsize and sew. Mark back and
front of brim.
SEWING CROWN TO BRIM
Match marking on crown and brim, pin
and sew crown to brim (Illus. 3).
LINING SAILOR
Requires a lining and headband.
Instructions page 45.
Making a Pattern of a Rolled Brim Breton Sailor
DESCRIPTION
To cut the material for covering a frame with a rolled or curved brim, make a paper pattern of the brim. To get every
detail and curve of frame, use 2" strips of thin paper, and make
an exact pattern of brim, then lay the pattern made of paper strips on a piece of paper and cut out pattern in one piece. This
method is very satisfactory when working with any curved detail
on frame.
MAKING PATTERN OF PAPER STRIPS
(Illus. 1) Start in back of frame on facing side of brim, pin paper strips 2" wide
to frame, from brim edge to headsize,
pinning papers at brim edge, in center of
brim and at headsize. Continue pinning strips around brim, lapping papers slightly on brim edge
increasing lapping at
headsize to fit frame.
(Illus. 2) When entire facing is covered
with paper strips (Illus.
3) draw a line on paper
around edge of brim and around head-
size.
(Illus. 4) To remove paper pattern made of paper strips from
frame, carefully unpin each strip of
paper, one at a time from frame around edge of brim, slipping pins
back in holes in paper strips, and
pinning them together again. Unpin
papers on entire brim and around headsize in this manner. When
entire pattern has been removed from frame cut off excess paper on brim edge and
around headsize on line
drawn.
MAKING SECOND PATTERN
(Illus. 5) Place pattern made of strips of
paper on a large piece of paper. Be sure pattern is perfectly flat
and smooth, then pin pattern to paper and draw a line around
brim edge and headsize and each side in back of pattern (Illus. 6). Mark back and front and cut out pattern on line drawn
around headsize and brim. Allow 1/2" on brim edge and at
headsize when cutting out material.
Covering a Breton Sailor
DESCRIPTION
A Breton Sailor has a rolled brim, requiring an exact paper
pattern to be made of the brim. The pattern is used to cut covering for frame. Material is then pinned to curved side on
brim edge and smoothed over curved side of frame that has
been smeared with Milliners Glue. Be sure that material has
adhered to curved side of frame and is thoroughly dry before putting on the facing material.
For pattern cutting instructions refer to page 31 For gluing
instructions refer to page 24.
MATERIAL REQUIRED
• 1/2 yard of material for covering frame
• Breton frame
• 3/4 yard of grosgrain headband ribbon
• One hat lining
COVERING A ROUND CROWN
(Illus. 1) Cut a square of material large enough to cover crown and pin
to head block back, front and sides.
Hold block over steam and pull down points of material
back, front and sides until all wrinkles are worked out of
material. Pin material around bottom of block.
(Illus. 2) When material is dry, lift
off block and slip onto frame crown.
(Illus. 3) Sew around bottom of
crown and cut off excess material. Mark back and front of crown.
CUTTING MATERIAL FOR BRIM
(Illus. 4) Place pattern on material and mark around pattern, allow 1/2"
and cut out two brim pieces, one for top of brim and one for facing of brim. Join
brim pieces together in back, stitch and steam press seam
open.
PINNING AND GLUING MATERIAL TO FRAME
(Illus. 5) Smear framewith Milliners Glue.
(Illus. 6) Pin material on top of frame, seam in
back, and follow gluing
instructions. Turn material over brim edge 1/4" and sew.
Pin facing material,seam in back,to frame, allowing
1/2" of material to extend around edge of brim.
(Illus. 7) Measure a wire to fit
edge of brim and join wire with a wire joiner. Turn edge of facing material
over wire, and pin around edge of brim.
(Illus. 8) Sew facing to brim under wire using a back stitch. Finish
headsize with a lining and a swirled
headband ribbon.
Instructions for linings and headband ribbons page 45.
Select any picture to view an enlargement in a new window
Pattern for a Basic Sailor
Draw line around headsize on material. Do not cut out on this line. Slash material
from back to front and from side to side to
line around headsize.
Select any picture to view an enlargement in a new window
Pattern for a Basic Sailor
Draw line around headsize on material.
Do not cut out on this line. Slash material
from back to front and from side to side to line around headsize.
Select any picture to view an enlargement in a new window
Making a Pill Box Frame
PILL BOX CROWN (ILLUS. 1)
Use correct headsize pattern on page 14 for top of crown. Place pattern on a piece
of elastic net, mark around pattern and cut
out elastic net on line marked. Mark back
and front of crown. (Use pencil or tailor's
chalk for marking).
PILL BOX SIDE CROWN
Decide height you want Pill Box to be, and cut a bias piece of elastic net the length of your headsize measurement, and
allow 2" for lapping. Cut width of bias piece to correspond with
height Pill Box is to be.
WIRING TOP OF PILL BOX (ILLUS. 2)
Measure a wire to fit top of Pill Box frame, join ends of wire with a wire joiner,
and sew wire around edge, using a button
hole stitch.
SEWING SIDE CROWN TO TOP OF PILL BOX
(Illus. 3) Hold edge of bias side crown
piece to wired top piece and overcast
together. Lap ends of bias side crown and sew flat.
WIRING BOTTOM OF PILL BOX (ILLUS. 4)
Measure a wire to fit bottom of Pill Box frame, join ends of wire with a wire joiner.
Sew wire around bottom of frame using a button hole stitch.
BINDING WIRES ON PILL BOX FRAME
Cut a 2" bias strip of crinoline (stretch bias strip of crinoline
before using). Fold crinoline over wired edges and baste crinoline to frame.
NON-HEADSIZE PILL BOX FRAME
Decide on size non-headsize Pill Box is to be, and
decrease pattern for top to correspond in size, with that
exception, follow instructions above for making non-
headsize Pill Box frame.
Instructions for covering Pill Box frame page 36.
How to Cover a Pill Box Frame
HOW TO COVER A PILL BOX
Make a Pill Box frame (page 35) or use a ready-made Pill Box frame. Pill Box Hat requires half yard of material for covering frame.
TOP OF CROWN
(Illus. 1) Cut 13" square of material and lay on top of crown. Pin front, back and sides
to crown top, stretching
material as you pin.
Turn material over edge of crown 1/2" and baste to side crown (lilus. 2).
Cut off excess material around crown
under basting.
SIDE CROWN
(Illus. 3) Cut a bias piece of material 2" wider than frame side crown measures. Pin
one edge of bias piece to top of crown,
stretching bias as you pin.
Pin ends together making a bias
seam, stitch and press seam open. Return bias piece to side crown with seam
in back. Turn material under 1" around
top of crown, and balance of material turn
over bottom edge of crown and sew to inside of crown. (Illus. 4).
LINING PILL BOX
Requires a lining and headband.
Instructions page 45.
Select any picture to view an enlargement in a new window
Pill Box Pattern
Half Hat
HALF HAT FRAME
(Illus. 1) Cut a bias piece of elastic net 5" x 11 1/2", dampen and place on Utility
Block (head block). Pull into shape from side
to side and pin to block with push pins. Let
dry on block. Measure a wire and sew on edge of frame, using a buttonhole stitch.
Join ends of wire with a joiner.
(Illus. 2) Cut 2" strips of crinoline (stretch crinoline strips before using) and
fold over wired edge and
baste.
(Illus. 3) Pin a metal bicycle clip on each side
of frame underneath.
Baste a strip of crinoline over each clip and stitch crinoline around
clips.
The bicycle clip holds hat secure on head and can be
purchased in any Millinery Supply House.
COVERING HALF HAT FRAME
(Illus. 4) Cut a 7" bias piece of material, pin to one end of frame, stretch material
over top of frame and pin
to other end.
(Illus. 5) Turn material over edge of frame and sew to under side.
LINING HALF HAT
(Illus. 6) Fit a bias piece of lining material to under side of
frame and sew around
edge.
(Illus. 7) Finish with a blocked grosgrain
ribbon band inside edge of frame.
TRIMMING HALF HAT
(Illus. 8) Use bows or flowers for trimming each side of half hat or entire hat
frame can be covered with leaves. Each leaf
sewn on with a pearl bead and a small piece
of veiling is all the trimming required.
Hat Anchorage
DESCRIPTION
Non-headsize hats and other small hats require an
anchorage to keep hat on head.
ELASTIC ANCHORAGE (ILLUS. 1)
Use a piece of thin rolled silk elastic. Measure elastic from side to side of hat
stretching slightly. Sew at each side of
headsize. Finish headsize with a swirled
ribbon headband.
WOUND WIRE (ILLUS. 2)
Cut a wire 17" long, turn a loop in each end of wire and sew to each side of
headsize. Use 1/2" wide ribbon or strips of
felt and sew one end to wire at headsize. Wind around wire tight to other side of headsize and sew to opposite wire. Finish head-
size with a swirled ribbon headband.
WIRE IN TUBING
(Illus. 3) Make a
1/4" tubing of felt or ribbon and run wire through tubing and sew
to either side of headsize. (Illus. 4) Cut
material 1/2" wide, fold in half and stitch
together for tubing.
WIRE LOOP
For a loop anchorage, make a half yard of 1/4" tubing of matching material. Slip wire
into tubing and turn wire at end of tubing,
making a 14" loop, join ends of wire with a
wire joiner. (Illus. 5) Fit balance of wire around inside of headsize and sew.
SHIRRED RIBBON WITH ELASTIC
Measure two pieces of 1/2" ribbon, one and a half lengths
of elastic piece being used. Stitch ribbon together on each side
and run elastic through center of ribbon and sew on either side of headsize.
SIDE CLAMP ANCHORAGE
Run a wire through 1 1/8 yds. of velvet
tubing (or wind with No. 3 grosgrain ribbon).
Join wire with a wire joiner. Lap tubing ends and sew together. Measure 4" from this
joining and bend wire into a 7" loop and sew
together. Measure 12 1/2" and make another 7" loop and sew
together. Bend these loops, or tabs, to fit head, as shown in
(Illus.6). Sew tubing around head size of hat. These tabs are a new form of decoration besides serving their purpose of holding
hat in place. The tabs may be trimmed with flowers or bows.
VELVET ROLL
Measure paper rope to fit headsize. Cut and sew together.
Do not lap ends of paper rope. Cut a bias strip of material the length and width of the rope, allowing extra width for stretching
and turning seam. Stretch material around rope and pin. Lap
ends of material and sew. Turn edge of material under and slip
stitch. Sew covered rope around head size. Paper rope comes in
several thicknesses.
Non Headsize Hats
DESCRIPTION
A non-headsize hat always has a small headsize, measuring from 18" to 21" and some
seasons when non-headsize hats are very
fashionable they become very extreme with the headsize
measuring only 12" and worn perched high on the head, tilted
forward. One-fourth to three-eighths of a yard of material is required depending on size of hat. An anchorage of elastic or a
matching band of material is necessary to hold hat on head. Hat
anchorages on page 39.
NON-HEADSIZE PILL BOX FRAME (ILLUS. 1)
Decide on size Non-headsize Pill Box is
to be, and cut pattern for top to correspond
in size, then follow instruction "How to Make a Pill Box Frame" page 35.
Instructions for covering Pill Box Frame
page 36.
NON-HEADSIZE SAILOR (ILLUS. 2)
Decide on size Non-headsize Sailor is to be and reduce or increase Non-headsize
Sailor pattern to correspond, then follow
instructions "Basic Sailor Buckram Frame" page 27.
Instructions for covering Basic Sailor Frame page 28.
Fabric Hat with Three-Piece Sectional Crown, Plain or Draped Brim
Trace pattern on page 78-79
Place each piece of pattern on fold of paper and cut double.
MATERIAL REQUIRED
• 1 yd. wool
• 3/4 yd. crinoline.
• 3/4 yd. soft taffeta
• 1 bicycle clip
• 1/2 yd. blocking felt
• 3/4 yd. headband ribbon.
• 12 rings
CRINOLINE FOUNDATION
Mark around pattern on crinoline. Mark notches on
crinoline and cut out.
(Illus. 1) Match notches on pieces 2 and 3 and baste
together. Stitch on machine. (Illus. 2) Join pieces together with seam in back. (Illus. 3) Match markings on pieces 1
and 2, baste together and stitch. (Illus. 4) Place crinoline
foundation on correct head-size utility block. (Illus. 5)
Steam and pull
foundation down to fit block. Pin
foundation to
block around the
bottom and let
dry.
MAKING CROWN OF FABRIC
Cut and sew fabric same as above. Baste each side of seams down flat and
stitch on machine. Place crown on utility
block wrong side out. Steam press seams
and pin around bottom of crown to block
and let dry. (Illus. 6)
Slip fabric crown
over crinoline foundation and baste
together. Place crown on block and
measure desired depth of crown from
back to front and from side to side. (Illus. 7) Mark depth
around crown with a basting thread. Cut off excess material 1/2" below this mark.
DRAPED BRIM
The above crown may be used with a brim of elastic net covered with the same fabric. Cut a bias strip of elastic
net, 8" x 36", and fold in half lengthwise. Pin and drape this strip around utility block until you have desired brim
style, then steam elastic net to keep shape and allow to
dry. Mark front of
brim. Pin elastic
net brim and crown together and try
on, making any
necessary
adjustments on
brim. Remove elastic net brim from crown. Lay elastic net brim on
material and cut material to correspond with elastic net.
Baste material and elastic net together. Fold brim back
into shape and pin to utility block. Slip crown on block
over brim. Match markings on crown and brim and pin together. Sew around headsize. Make lining from same
crown pattern and slip inside crown. Finish around
headsize with a swirled ribbon headband. (Illus. 8). (Illus.
9).
Plain Brim Fabric Hat
Lay
brim pattern on crinoline and blocking felt. Cut out one of each, (Illus. 1). Lay
brim pattern on wool material and cut out two brims, one for top
of brim and one for facing brim, (Illus. 2). Place wool brims right
sides together and baste around outer edge to crinoline and felt
brims and stitch, (Illus. 3).
Fit brim to head and pin ends of brim together
in back, (Illus. 4). Stitch
and steam press seam
open, (Illus. 5). Turn one
side of wool brim over and baste 1/4" from top all around brim edge, (Illus. 6).
Steam press brim.
Pull brim over wool crown on block and pin together
around headsize, (Illus.
7).
Try hat
on and make any adjustments
necessary. Sew crown and brim together, (Illus. 8). Cut off any
excess material around headsize.
Make hat lining to match bag lining and finish with ribbon headband.
TRIM WITH A COVERED BICYCLE CLIP
Stitch two pieces of ribbon together. Slip bicycle clip in groove and adjust for hat
trim, (Illus. 9).
Fabric Bag to Match Hat
CUTTING
Cut two sections of No. 1 and two sections of No. 2 of wool,
crinoline and blocking felt. Cut two
tab facings of wool material extending 1" below notch. Cut two sections of
No. 1 and two sections of No. 2 of lining material (just to notch
on pattern).
SEWING
Baste crinoline and felt to wrong side of wool
sections, 1 and 2. Baste
tab facings at top of bag
and stitch, (Illus. 3). Turn
wool tab facings over and
baste around top of tabs; stitch and press. Baste bag sections
together, making
a 1/4" seam, (Illus. 4).
Stitch and press seams open. Cut a strip of material 24" long and 1" wide. Stitch flat and press, (Illus. 5). Cut strip into
twelve 2" pieces. Slip a ring in center of each 2" piece, fold
material over ring and sew ends to bag. Sew four rings on each side of bag and two on each tab, (Illus. 6). Cut I 1/2 yds. of cord
in half and run each piece through rings to close bag, (Illus. 7).
LINING
Baste and stitch lining together. Place a square of
cardboard to fit bottom of bag. Slip lining in bag, turn in 1/2" and slip stitch to bag.
Bag Pattern for Fabric Hat
Hat Linings and Headbands
DESCRIPTION
Hats made on a buckram frame require a lining and a
headband ribbon to finish headsize.
Felt hats require a headband ribbon only to finish headsize.
Use soft taffeta or crepe for hat linings.
Use No. 5 Saw-tooth Grosgrain ribbon for headbands.
BLOCKED LININGS FOR ROUND CROWNS
(llus. 1) Cut a 14" square of lining material and put on Utility Block. Pin back, front and sides to block. (Illus. 2) Hold
block over steam pulling down points on either side of back and
front until lining fits block, and is free from wrinkles. Pin lining to
block each step as you stretch and steam (Illus. 3).
Let lining dry on block then remove and slip lining into
crown. Pin and sew around, headsize, cutting off excess material. Finish headsize with a swirled headband ribbon.
LINING MADE FROM A PATTERN FOR SQUARE CROWNS
(Illus. 4) Cut a circle
of lining material to fit
top of crown. Notch front, back and side of circle. Cut a bias strip of
lining material the width of side crown and length of headsize
measurement. Fold this strip of material into quarters, notch,
join ends and sew together. (Illus. 5) Match notches on bias strip with notches on circle, baste together and stitch. Slip lining into
crown, pin and baste around headsize. Cut off excess material
and finish with a swirled headband ribbon.
HEADBAND RIBBONS
Saw-Tooth grosgrain ribbon No. 5 is used to finish the headsize of hats. This ribbon will retain its shape when blocked
or swirled, which is very important. Allow 3/4 of a yard of ribbon
for a hat, as ribbon shrinks some when swirled.
SWIRLED RIBBON HEADBAND
Dampen ribbon and press into a circle, using a regular iron, (Illus. 6) if a steam iron
is used, ribbon does not need dampening.
Pin the large side of the ribbon circle to
headsize, letting the small side of ribbon
circle extend into headsize. Turn ribbon under and lap ends to finish ribbon headband.
BLOCKED RIBBON HEADBAND
(Illus. 7) Put hat on Utility Block and draw a line on block around headsize, then
remove hat.
Wet a piece of headband ribbon.
Starting in back
on line drawn on block, pin (Illus. 8) (with push pins) one edge of ribbon, stretching
and turning ribbon to fit block (Illus. 9).
When dry remove ribbon and pin into headsize of hat, and sew using invisible
stitch (Illus. 10).
RIBBON HEADBAND FOR BERET
Do not swirl headband ribbon for Berets. Ribbon
headband must measure your exact
headsize measurement after ends have been lapped and joined, before pinning
ribbon into Beret head-size (Illus. 11).
Divide ribbon headband into quarters and mark, then divide beret headsize into
quarters and mark, match marks on Beret
headsize with marks on ribbon headband
and pin and sew ribbon around Beret
headsize (Illus. 12). If ribbon headband is larger than Beret headsize, stretch Beret headsize to fit ribbon, if ribbon headband
is smaller than Beret headsize hold headsize
in to fit ribbon.
After ribbon headband has been sewn flat around Beret head-size, dampen ribbon
headband and turn ribbon headband up into
Beret headsize (Illus. 13), then pull Beret over Utility block and let ribbon headband dry on block.
SEWING IN SWIRLED HEADBAND RIBBONS
When sewing in a headband on a Beret use an overcast
stitch on edge of ribbon. For all other headbands use a small
stitch in a rib of the ribbon on the outside and slant needle into hat headsize taking a long stitch on underside. Continue in this
manner, a long and a short stitch until entire headband has been
sewn around headsize.
Materials Used to Make Straw Hats
STRAW BRAIDS
• PLAIN STRAW BRAID. . . MADE ON A BLOCK OR OVER A FRAME
• ROUGH STRAW BRAID. . .MADE ON A BLOCK
• TUSCAN BRAID. . .MADE ON A BLOCK
• STRAW BANDING. . .CROWN MADE ON A FOUNDATION
• STRAW CLOTH. . .MADE ON A FRAME
STRAW BODIES
• BAKU. . .MADE ON A BLOCK
• SISAL. . .MADE ON A BLOCK
• SHANTUNG. . .MADE ON A BLOCK
• LEGHORN. . .CROWN BLOCKED AND BRIM WIRED
• ROUGH STRAW. . .CROWN BLOCKED AND BRIM WIRED
• HORSEHAIR. . .CROWN BLOCKED AND BRIM WIRED
• MILAN. . .REQUIRES A PROFESSIONAL BLOCKER
• PANAMA. . . REQUIRES A PROFESSIONAL
BLOCKER
INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE ABOVE STRAWS ARE
GIVEN ON THE FOLLOWING PAGES, EXCEPT PANAMA AND MILAN WHICH REQUIRE A
PROFESSIONAL BLOCKER
Using a Buckram Frame as a Block for a Straw Braid Hat Making Crown and Brim Separate
Any style frame may be used as a block to shape straw braid. The braid is basted to the frame and steamed. The rows of
braid are then sewn together. Care must be taken not to sew
braid to frame. Basting threads are cut and removed and braid is sized and allowed to dry on frame. Finished braid hat is then
removed from frame.
MATERIAL REQUIRED
• Buckram frame.
• 8 to 10 yards of 1" straw braid.
Wrap straw braid in damp towel for several hours
before using.
MARKING FRAME
When crown and brim are to be made separately, mark back, front and sides at bottom of frame crown with
a colored thread. Also mark frame brim at headsize edge
to match marking on crown. Then separate crown from
brim.
MAKING STRAW CROWN
Wind thread around one end of
straw and
manipulate straw
into a circle,
slightly lapping one row of straw over the other. (Illus. 1) Sew two rows into
circle and without cutting straw off baste this circle on top
of crown. Continue basting each .row of braid to frame
until top of crown is covered, then slightly pull braid and
continue, basting braid to side crown, until bottom of crown is reached. Run last row of braid off on a slant and
cut braid off (Illus. 2). Steam straw crown slightly over
tea-kettle and sew rows of braid together, using small
stitches concealed in the straw, be careful not to sew through braid to frame. Clip and remove all basting
threads, except at bottom of crown. Apply a coat of straw
sizing and allow to dry. Mark bottom of straw crown to
correspond with markings on frame. Remove basting
threads at bottom of crown and slip straw crown off frame.
MAKING STRAW BRIM
(Illus. 3) Start in back on brim edge and baste straw braid to frame,
slightly pulling and lapping each row,
until headsize is reached. Turn braid
up around headsize 1/2" run braid off on a slant and cut off.
Steam brim over teakettle and sew rows of braid together, using small stitches concealed in the straw. Mark
straw brim at headsize to correspond with markings on
frame brim. Cut and remove basting threads, except
around brim edge. Apply straw sizing and let dry. Remove
bastings on brim edge and slip straw brim off frame.
WIRING BRIM EDGE
Measure a wire to fit brim edge and join with a wire
joiner. Pin wire around brim edge on under side, and sew
wire to straw. Start in back and fit a row of braid over wire on under side of brim, turn end under and lap braid. Sew
row of braid around under side of brim edge. Apply a coat
of straw sizing and let dry.
SEWING CROWN AND BRIM TOGETHER
(Illus. 4) Match markings on crown
and brim. Pin together and sew crown
to brim around headsize. Finish headsize with a swirled headband ribbon.
Instructions for swirled headband on
page 45.
Making a Straw Braid Hat in One Piece Using a Buckram Frame for a Block
MATERIAL REQUIRED
• Hat frame.
• 8 to 10 yards of 1" straw braid.
BASTING STRAW BRAID TO FRAME
WRAP STRAW BRAID IN A DAMP TOWEL FOR
SEVERAL HOURS BEFORE USING. (Illus. 1) Starting in back, baste
braid on top side of frame on brim
edge, lapping each row of braid slightly, pulling braid just
a little as you baste. Continue in this manner until top of
crown is reached. Last row will have an elongated shape instead of round. Slip end of braid on top under last row,
cut off braid and baste flat.
STEAMING AND SEWING BRAID
Pass braid side of frame through
steam from a teakettle several times
(do not hold frame still in steam at
any time) Keep it moving as too much steam in one spot will cause frame to
collapse. (Illus. 2) Sew each row together while on frame,
using small stitches concealed in straw being careful not to
sew through to buckram frame. When braid is thoroughly
dry, clip basting and remove basting threads except around brim edge of frame. Apply a coat of straw sizing to
straw and allow to dry thoroughly on frame. When
thoroughly dry clip basting on brim edge and remove from
frame.
WIRING BRIM EDGE OF HAT
Measure a
piece of wire to fit
brim edge and join
wire with a wire joiner. Pin wire on
under side of straw
brim and whip stitch wire to braid
(Illus. 3). Fit a row of straw braid over wire on under side,
starting braid in back, turn ends of braid under and sew around brim edge (Illus. 4). Steam this row of braid
slightly, let dry and apply a coat of straw sizing to entire
under side of brim and allow to dry thoroughly.
HEADSIZE FINISH
Finish around headsize with a swirled headband
ribbon.
Instructions for swirled headband ribbon page 45.
Making Straw Braid Crowns and Brims on Wood Hat Blocks
MATERIAL REQUIRED
• 8 to 10 yards of 1" straw braid.
• Utility brim block with correct headsize band block for brim.
• Utility head block in correct headsize for crown.
BLOCKING BRIM
Wrap straw in damp towel for several hours
before using. (Illus.
1)
Measure desired width of
brim on brim block and draw a line for brim edge around block. (Illus. 2)
Starting in back and using push
pins, pin first row of braid to block on
this line. Lap each row of braid slightly
until headsize is reached (Illus. 3). Turn braid up 1/2" on headband
block and cut braid
off (Illus. 4).
Slip straight
pins into braid and remove push pins,
except around brim edge. Press carefully with an iron and
a damp cloth (Illus. 5).
Be sure iron is not too hot. (Illus. 6) Tie a cord tight around headsize
over straw and let straw brim dry on
block. Mark back and front of brim.
When thoroughly dry, remove brim from block and sew each row of braid together, concealing stitches in
braid. Measure a wire to fit brim edge and join with a wire
joiner. Pin wire to facing of brim and whip wire to braid around brim edge. Fit a row of braid over wire and sew
braid around brim edge. Steam this row of braid slightly.
Return brim to block and pin down. Apply a coat of straw
sizing and allow brim to dry on block.
BLOCKING CROWN
Measure head from back to front
and from side to side for desired depth
of crown. Mark measurements on crown block and draw a line around
block, (Illus. 7)
Wind one end
of the straw braid with thread and manipulate braid into a circle. Sew
about two rows of braid, then pin to
top of block. Continue pinning
rows of braid to block, lapping
each row slightly and pulling braid to fit block, until crown is desired depth. (Illus. 8) Cut
braid off on a slant and run last row of braid off to nothing.
Slip straight pins into straw and remove push pins. Press
slightly with an iron and damp cloth and let dry on block.
Mark back and front of crown. When dry, remove from block and
sew each row of braid, concealing
stitches in straw. Again place crown on
block and pin to block around the bottom with push pins
(Illus. 9). Apply a coat of straw sizing and let crown dry on
block.
SEWING CROWN AND BRIM TOGETHER
Match front and back markings on crown and brim, pin together, then sew crown to brim around headsize.
Finish head-size with a swirled ribbon
headband.
If tuscan or any other lacey braid
is used (Illus. 10a), run wire for brim edge through velvet tubing. (Illus.
10b)
Join wire ends
with a joiner then
neatly finish lap ends of tubing with
several slip stitches. (Illus.
10c)
Pin velvet tubing to under side of
brim and slip stitch tubing to straw. (Illus. 11)
Making Straw Braid Pill Box on a Block
MATERIAL REQUIRED
• Four to six yards of 1" straw braid.
• Use a square crown block correct headsize for blocking braid.
DAMPEN BRAID
Wrap straw braid in a damp cloth for several hours
before using.
TOP OF CROWN
Wind one end of straw with a thread, fold slightly lap and manipulate braid, sewing braid into a circle for about
two rows of braid, fasten thread. Pin braid to top center of
block.
SIDE CROWN
Continue pulling and fitting braid, lapping each row slightly, until top of block is covered with braid, then pull
braid as you start to pin braid to side crown and continue
pinning and lapping each row of braid slightly until desired
measurement is reached on side crown, usually 2 1/2" dependent entirely on current style. Use push pins to pin
braid to block, then baste braid. Remove push pins.
STEAM BRAID ON BLOCK
Carefully steam braid on block by holding block over
steaming tea kettle for several minutes. Allow braid to dry on block.
SEWING BRAID
Take straw off block and sew each row of braid together with matching thread, concealing stitches in
straw. Remove basting.
SIZING STRAW
After sewing braid return to block and pin bottom row
of braid to block. Slightly steam again and allow to thoroughly dry on block. Then apply a coat of straw sizing
and let straw dry on block. Finish inside of hat with a
swirled headband.
NON-HEADSIZE PILL BOX
For a Non-headsize pill box use a 21" headsize block or smaller.
Instructions for swirled headband on page 45.
Hat Made of 5" Straw Banding
DESCRIPTION
5" straw banding comes in many different colors and color combinations. It
can be used for trimming or for making an
entire hat. The crown of a straw banding hat
is made on a blocked foundation. A tapered crown block is most satisfactory for blocking the foundation. Brims may be blocked in
sailor, mushroom or breton shape.
Beautiful draped hats can be made of 5" straw banding by thoroughly wetting braid and shaping crown on round head block
and then draping brim around crown, allowing it to dry on block
and applying straw sizing.
MATERIAL REQUIRED
• 2 1/2 to 3 yards of 5" straw banding.
• 1/3 yard of starched georgette for blocked foundation.
• Utility brim block No. 1514X.
• Tapered crown block
BLOCKED FOUNDATION
Instructions for blocking crown foundation on page 21.
CROWN
(Illus. 1) Place blocked georgette
foundation on block. Measure two
strips of banding to fit top of crown,
allowing two inches on each strip for
turning over side crown.
Stitch strips
together and press seam open. (Illus.
2) Pin banding to top of foundation
with seam in center top of crown. Turn banding over edge of crown and sew,
to foundation one inch from top of
crown.
Measure a piece of banding to fit
side crown. Stitch ends together and press seam open. Put side crown on
block with seam in back. (Illus. 3) Pin
to foundation and sew around top of
crown. Trim off excess foundation
material 1" below bottom of crown, turn under and sew to banding around bottom of side crown. Apply straw sizing
and let dry on block. Mark front of crown.
BRIM
(Illus. 4) Mark desired width of
brim on flat side of brim block and
draw a line around block for brim
edge.
(Illus. 5) Measure a wire to fit line
on block.
(Illus. 6) Join ends of wire with a
joiner.
(Illus. 7)
Measure a piece of straw banding to fit
around wire. To measure straw banding, turn edge over wire and pin,
stretch banding tight and pin to wire
all the way around. Allow 3" for seam. Remove banding
from wire and stitch ends together. Press seam open. Turn
each side of seam under and sew down by hand. Press.
(Illus. 8) Turn this piece of
banding over wire 1/4" and sew
around wire. (Illus. 9) Pin wired edge of
banding to block along the line and
steam press banding into headsize. Tie
a blocking cord over straw around
headsize on block and let dry. Apply straw sizing to brim and let dry on block. Mark front of brim.
SEWING CROWN AND BRIM TOGETHER
(Illus. 10) Match front markings
on crown and brim, pin together, then
sew crown to brim around headsize. Finish headsize with a swirled ribbon headband.
MUSHROOM BRIM
Follow instructions for sailor brim.
To block brim in mushroom shape,
(Illus. 11) pin wired edge of banding
on curved side of brim block.
(Illus. 12) Steam press banding
into headsize and tie blocking cord
around headsize. Finish same as sailor brim.
BRETON BRIM
Measure straw
banding and wire in
the same manner
as for sailor brim. DO NOT pin brim
edge to block, and do not join wire ends until hat is finished. Place
banding on block, steam around headsize and tie a
blocking cord around headsize. (Illus. 13) Curve brim
banding up and pull in wire on edge until brim has desired
roll. (Illus. 14) Join ends of wire with a joiner. Finish same as sailor brim.
TRIMMING SUGGESTIONS FOR STRAWS
Large or small flowers, pearls or other beads, velvet
bows, gros-grain ribbon, veiling, maline pompoms or
ribbon cocardes may be used to trim straws. Small flowers may be placed around brim or large roses placed at back
of hat or maline pompoms at the side, etc.
Blocking Rough Straw Bodies
BLOCKING ROUGH STRAW BODIES
(Illus. 1) Rough
straw bodies can be
made into hats without blocking. Simply wire the brim edge and
sew a headband ribbon inside crown around headsize. (Illus. 2)
When this method is used, hat brim will be large and the same size all around. To make the brim shorter in back, block the
crown, drape and fold back of brim until desired effect is
achieved.
To separate crown from brim or make brim smaller on a rough straw body, pull out and cut off cord running between
braid rows. Another method is to measure desired depth of
crown and draw a line on straw around crown, measure desired width of brim and draw a line on straw around brim. Machine
stitch on line around crown and brim. Cut straw off 1/4" outside
of machine stitching.
BLOCKING STRAW CROWN Wrap straw body in a damp cloth for
several hours before blocking. Tuck back of brim, at headsize, inside crown and pin.
Taper tuck off to nothing on sides of brim.
(Illus. 3) Steam press crown around headsize, pressing in any
folds, and let dry on block. Apply a coat of straw sizing and let dry on block. Mark front of hat.
BLOCKING BRIM
(Illus. 4) Steam press any tucks in brim. Pin brim to flat side of utility brim
block and steam press. Let dry on block.
Apply a coat of straw sizing and let dry on
block. Mark back and front of brim.
WIRING BRIM EDGE
Measure a wire to fit around brim about 2" inside of outer
edge. Run wire through velvet tubing. Join ends of wire with a
joiner, pull velvet tubing tight on wire and
join tubing. To join tubing, lap one end of
tubing over the other, turn raw edge under and sew. Pin wired
tubing around underside of brim and sew, taking a long stitch
through tubing and a short stitch through straw (lllus. 5).
Finish headsize with a swirled ribbon headband.
Blocking a Leghorn Straw Body
BLOCKING CROWN
Pin crown on Utility headblock, steam
and press until crown fits block. Measure desired depth of crown from back to front
and from side to side and draw a line on
straw around block. (Illus .1) Cut off excess straw 1" below the
line. Mark back and front of crown.
BLOCKING BRIM
Slip leghorn brim on brim block, with correct headband block size, and allow straw to turn up 1"
around headsize.
(Illus. 2) Pin brim down to block around headsize, and lay a damp cloth over straw
and press thoroughly around headsize.
(Illus. 3) Pin brim down to block around
edge of brim. Measure and mark exact size
brim is to be and draw a line around brim on straw. Cut off excess straw on this line. Mark
back and front of brim.
FINISHING BRIM WITH A BIAS FOLD
Measure a wire to fit edge of brim and join wire with a wire
joiner, and sew wire around edge of straw brim, using an
overcast stitch. Cut a 3" bias piece of velvet or silk. Stretch and
pin one edge of the bias piece around the edge of brim and join
ends on the bias. Remove bias piece and stitch joining on machine and steam press seam open. Return bias piece to brim,
and pin around edge, with bias joining seam in back of brim.
Sew bias piece to brim using a back stitch.
(Illus. 4) Turn bias piece over edge of
brim, and turn raw edge of fold under. Pin fold around under side of brim and sew,
using a ilip stitch.
SEWING CROWN AND BRIM TOGETHER
(Illus. 5) Match markings on brim and
crown and pin together, and sew crown to
brim around headsize. Finish headsize with a
swirled headband ribbon.
Instructions for swirled headband page 45.
Blocking Straw Bodies of Baku, Sisal, Shantung
SIZING
Glue sizing straw bodies is a professional
method and is entirely optional. Good results are obtained without glue sizing straw bodies. Baku, sisal and shantung straw
bodies may be dipped in glue sizing and allowed to dry over
night before using.
BLOCKING CROWN
(Illus. 1) Wet straw body until soft and
pliable. Place on block, stretching and pulling
straw until all fullness has been worked out and crown is free from wrinkles. Pin around
bottom of block and tie a blocking cord over straw around block
at bottom of crown. Allow to dry thoroughly.
(Illus. 2) Measure desired depth of
crown from back to front and from side to side and draw a line around crown on straw.
Remove crown from block and stitch on line
around crown on sewing machine. Cut off excess straw around
crown 1/2" below stitching.
BLOCKING BRIM
Stretch straw brim out on a flat surface,
working out fullness and smoothing out all
wrinkles. Turn straw up 1/2" on headband
block and pin to block around headsize. (Illus. 3) Measure desired width of brim from headsize to brim
edge and draw a line around brim edge on straw. Remove from
block and machine stitch on line. Cut off excess straw 1/2"
outside stitching.
FINISHING BRIM WITH PLAIN HEM
Measure a wire to fit around stitching on brim. Join ends of wire with a joiner. Turn straw brim edge over wire 1/2" to
underside. Baste and stitch around brim edge.
FINISHING BRIM WITH RIBBON EDGE
Use 3" wide grosgrain ribbon. Dampen, fold and lightly press and swirl ribbon.
Stretch and pin edge of ribbon to brim edge,
easing or stretching ribbon to fit where
necessary. Lap one end of ribbon over the other in back. Sew
ribbon to straw using a back stitch. Turn ribbon over brim edge
and pin to underside. (Illus. 4) Sew around brim with small stitches on outside of ribbon and slanting needle as you go
through to take the next stitch.
Cleaning and Remodeling Straw Hats
REMODELING STRAW CROWNS
Straw braid crowns can be raised by reblocking and adding several rows of braid to
bottom of crown, or lowered by removing
several rows of braid around bottom of crown.
Square straw crowns can be made round by reblocking on a round utility block head block.
Round crowns can be made square by fitting a pasteboard
to small end of utility head block, and securing pasteboard to block with adhesive tape, then reblock crown on this end of
block.
REMODELING STRAW BRIMS
Straw brims can be made smaller by cutting off around
brim edge, or made larger by adding a taffeta or velvet fold around brim edge, or a row of hair braid.
If brim is a flat sailor type and a scooped effect would bring
hat up to date or be more becoming, cut brim open at center back and lap one side over the other, turning straw edge under
and stitch flat.
CLEANING STRAWS
Baku, shantung, or any other straw that will take water can
be washed. Remove all ribbons and wires and scrub straw with a
brush and lukewarm soapsuds. Rinse in lukewarm water. Reblock straw while still wet, using the same method of blocking
as for new straw. When dry after blocking, apply a coat of straw
sizing. If the straw is colored, use sizing of the same color. This
will renew faded straw. Many straws can be dyed another color.
To freshen a Milan hat, pin brim to a hard surface and steam press into shape. Let dry and size with sizing of the same
color.
Many straw braids can be cleaned by wiping off with
cleaning fluid. Steam press, pin hat to a flat surface and let dry.
Apply a coat of straw sizing and let dry.
CLEANING FABRIC HATS
Clean fabric hats by dipping a small pad into cleaning fluid and rubbing it over hat surface.
Steam velvet hats lightly over a steaming teakettle and brush with a soft brush.
Materials Used to Make Felt Hats
FELT HOOD (ILLUS. 1) A felt hood is shaped like an elongated
crown and is used to block small hats and to make pattern hats.
FELT BODY (ILLUS. 2) A felt body has a
semi-shaped crown and a
brim and is used when blocking a
brimmed hat, and can be blocked on a block
or used in a combination of blocking the crown and using a
pattern for the brim.
FELT SKIRTING
Skirting is available in lengths and is also a fur felt, used for turbans and small draped hats. Usually requires a foundation.
WOOL FELT BY THE YARD
Wool felt by the yard is used for Berets and many casual
stitched hats and bags. A foundation is often
required.
FELTS • Fur felt
• Velour
• Soleil
• Melusine
Are available in hoods and bodies. Hoods are used to make the smaller hats and the
felt body is used when making a brimmed hat.
Fur felt is made from Belgian Hares, is the most satisfactory felt to work with, is soft and pliable, does not
become stiff when steam and water is applied, and can be
made over season after season. The initial cost is greater
than wool felt, but the fact that it is so much more
satisfactory to work with and can be used over, makes it the better buy. Wool felts are a cheaper felt and become
very stiff when steam or water is applied, making it almost
impossible to use wool felt more than one season.
STEAMING AND PRESSING FELTS
(Illus. 3) Felts
require steam and heat
to allow stretching and
smoothing to fit block.
Put felt on block, hold over steaming teakettle and as each
spot of felt becomes hot and moist, pull, stretch and pin
felt to block. (Illus. 4). When stretching felt for brims or
pattern cutting, lay a damp cloth over
'felt and press. When felt becomes hot
and moist it is more pliable and can
easily be stretched. (Illus. 5)
TO POLISH FELT WHEN FINISHED
Wet pressing cloth and wring dry. Roll cloth into a thick pad and place under hot iron. When pad is steaming
hot, smooth it over felt surfaces with a circular motion.
Continue heating pad and rubbing over felt until entire surface has been polished.
How to Block a Felt Body on a One-Piece Block
DESCRIPTION
Many different style blocks, used to block felt hats are
manufactured. Some blocks are made in several sections and some are made in one solid piece.
The same procedure used for blocking felt on a one-piece block is used when blocking felt on a block made in sections,
with the exception of removing felt from block when felt is dry.
To remove felt from the one-piece block, remove pins and
blocking cords around brim and bottom of crown. Slip felt hat off
block. To remove felt from a block made in sections, unpin felt from block and remove blocking cords, slip hand under block and
remove one section of block at a time, until all sections of block
have been removed from felt hat.
BLOCKING FELT CROWN
Wrap fur felt body in a damp cloth for several hours before
blocking. (Illus. 1) Pull felt body over
crown on block, steam, pull and stretch felt, until all wrinkles
have been removed and felt fits crown block perfectly. Pin felt around bottom of crown (with push pins) and tie a blocking cord
around bottom of crown on block (Illus. 2).
BLOCKING FELT BRIM
Pull brim of felt body over block brim,
steam, pull and stretch felt until all wrinkles
have been removed and felt fits brim block
perfectly. Pin felt to block around edge of brim (with push pins) and tie a blocking cord over felt in groove
on brim edge of block. (Illus. 3) Draw a line on felt around edge
of brim and mark back and front of hat. Let dry on block.
WIRING BRIM EDGE
To remove felt from block, untie cords around brim edge and bottom of crown. Trim excess felt on edge of brim 1/4" from
line.
Measure wire to fit brim edge and join
wire with a wire joiner. Turn felt on brim
edge over wire 1/4" and pin felt to facing, and sew using a small overcast stitch (Illus.
4).
Finish headsize with a swirled ribbon headband.
Instructions for headband page 45.
Blocking Felt Crown and Brim on Separate Blocks
MATERIAL REQUIRED
• Utility head block in correct headsize
• Utility brim block with correct headsize
• Fur felt body
• 3/4 of a yard of headband ribbon
BLOCKING CROWN
Wrap felt body in a damp cloth for several hours before blocking.
(Illus. 1) Pull felt body on Utility head
block, steam, pull and stretch felt until
all wrinkles have been removed and
felt fits block perfectly. Pin felt to block (with push pins).
(Illus. 2) Measure your head from
back to front and from side to side,
the depth crown is to be. Mark these
measurements on felt, and draw a line around block on felt. Mark back and
front of crown.
(Illus. 3) When felt crown is dry,
remove crown from block and cut off
excess felt on crown 1/2" below line on felt.
BLOCKING BRIM
Use felt piece cut off from bottom
of crown for the brim. Dampen.
(Illus. 4) Put felt piece on Utility brim block. Turn felt up 1/2" around
headsize on block. Pin felt to block
around headsize. Steam, pull and
stretch felt out on brim block as much as possible and pin
edge of brim to block.
(Illus. 5) Lay a damp cloth on felt
brim and steam press felt around
headsize until all wrinkles have been removed from felt brim and felt fits
headsize on brim perfectly.
Illus. 6. Measure width brim is to
be in front, back and each side and
draw a line on felt (with tailors chalk) cut off excess felt 1/4" below line.
WIRING BRIM EDGE
(Illus. 7) Measure a wire to fit
edge of felt brim and join wire with a
wire joiner.
(Illus. 8) Turn
felt over wire 1/4" around edge of brim. Pin and sew felt to under side
of brim using a small overcast
stitch. Pin wired brim on block again and steam wired
edge.
SEWING CROWN AND BRIM TOGETHER
(Illus. 9) Match markings on
crown and brim, pin crown over brim
headsize. Sew crown to brim around
headsize using a small overcast stitch.
Finish headsize with a swirled ribbon headband.
Instructions for headband ribbon on page 45.
Blocking a Fur Felt Body Using Combination of a Blocked Crown and Brim Cut from a Pattern
MATERIAL REQUIRED
• Fur felt body
• Utility head block in your correct headsize
• Brim pattern�instructions pattern making page 17.
• 3/4 of a yard of headband ribbon
• Utility brim block
BLOCKING FELT CROWN
Wrap felt body in a damp cloth
for several hours before blocking. Pull
felt body over Utility head block,
steam, pull and stretch felt down until
all wrinkles have been removed and felt fits crown block perfectly. Pin felt
to block (with push pins) and tie a
blocking cord around block over felt. Let felt dry on block
(Illus. 1).
Measure your head from back to front the depth crown is to be and from side to side and mark these
measurements on felt, and draw a line around block on
felt.
Mark back and front of crown on felt.
When felt crown is dry, remove crown from block and cut off excess felt on crown 1/2" below line on felt.
MAKING FELT BRIM
(Illus. 2) Use
felt cut off from
crown for brim, cut
open at narrowest
place. Lay felt on a pressing board and cover with a damp cloth, steam press (Illus. 3), stretching
felt as you press until felt is stretched enough to fit brim
pattern.
(Illus. 4) Place brim pattern on
felt, and mark around pattern with
tailor's chalk) on felt. Cut out felt brim 1/2" from this line. Mark back and
front of brim on
felt.
(Illus. 5) Sew brim together in
back using a furring stitch, and slip brim on Utility brim block; allow
1/2" of felt to turn up around
headsize on block.
(Illus. 6)
Cover felt brim with a damp cloth
and press felt into
headsize. Tie a blocking cord
around headsize on block over felt and pin brim edge of felt to brim block (using push pins). Let brim dry on block
(Illus. 7)
Remove felt brim from block, match markings on brim and crown.
Slip crown over headsize on brim
and sew crown and brim together,
using a small overcast stitch (Illus. 8).
WIRING BRIM
Measure a wire to fit edge of brim and join wire with a wire joiner. Turn felt brim edge over wire 1/4" and pin
around brim. Sew felt to under side of brim using a small
overcast stitch.
Finish headsize with a swirled headband.
Blocking a Felt Hood into a Tapered Brim
MATERIAL REQUIRED
• Fur felt hood
• Utility head block in correct headsize
• 3/4 of a yard of headband ribbon
BLOCKING CROWN
Wrap felt in a damp cloth for several hours tefore
blocking. Pull felt hood over Utility block, steam, pull and stretch felt down, until all wrinkles have been removed
and felt fits head block perfectly. Pin felt to block (with
push pins) and tie a blocking cord around block over felt.
Let felt crown dry on block. Mark back and front of crown.
Measure your head from back to front and from side to side, depth crown is to be, and mark these measurements
on felt. Draw a line around block on felt. When crown is
dry remove crown from block and cut off excess felt on
bottom of crown 1/2" below line.
MAKING A PATTERN FOR A FELT BRIM
(Illus. 1) Put blocked felt crown
on Utility head block. Use a bias piece
of crinoline to make brim pattern,
pinning one edge of crinoline to bottom of felt crown, stretching
crinoline slightly as you pin. (Use push
pins).
(Illus. 2) Adjust and manipulate
crinoline brim pattern, until you are satisfied that brim will be becoming to
you. Then mark crown where brim
starts and ends, draw a line around
headsize and brim edge on crinoline
pattern. (Illus. 3)
Remove pattern and cut off excess crinoline on line around
headsize and brim edge.
Use this crinoline pattern to cut out felt brim.
Using the principles given above, many smart and unusual brims can be created.
CUTTING OUT FELT BRIM
Use the piece of felt cut off from
the blocked crown for the brim. Cut
this piece open at the narrowest place,
and lay on a pressing board, cover
with a damp cloth and steam. Stretch felt until it is large enough for pattern
to fit on the felt (Illus. 4).
Place crinoline brim pattern on
felt and mark around pattern. Remove pattern and cut out felt on line drawn.
Match markings on crown and brim
and (Illus. 5) slip brim under crown on
block, pin together. Remove from
block and sew crown and brim together using a small overcast stitch.
Then (Illus. 6) put hat back on Utility
head block and thoroughly steam crown
and brim, pulling crown
down to fit block. Pin crown around
bottom to block, let dry
on block (Illus. 7).
Finish headsize with a swirled ribbon headband.
Instructions for ribbon headband page 45.
Crescent Felt Hat
REQUIREMENTS
• Large felt hood
• 7 yards of 1/4" braid
• 3/4 yard headband ribbon
Use pattern on page 71.
CUTTING PATTERN
Trace and cut out 9 crescent sections and mark top of
each section like pattern. Cut out one piece of pattern
trim.
CUTTING FELT
Cut one side of felt hood open from bottom to top, steam press felt hood flat as possible.
(Illus. 1) Arrange the 9 crescent
pieces of pattern and one piece for trim on felt. Mark around pattern on
felt (with tailor's chalk) and mark top
of each crescent, and cut out felt on
line.
SEWING AND BLOCKING FELT
(Illus. 2) Sew braid around
curved side of each crescent, on both sides and around piece
for trim.
(Illus. 3) Fold
trim piece on line and pin top of each
crescent piece to trim. Place on your correct Utility headsize
block.
(Illus. 4) Fit, lap
and pin each crescent
section together evenly to fit block.
(Illus. 5) Steam and let dry on
block.
(Illus. 6) Remove from block and sew
each crescent section
together on inside
edge of braid.
FINISH HEADSIZE
Finish headsize with a swirled headband ribbon.
Crescent Felt Hat Pattern
Fringed Felt Casual Hat
MATERIAL REQUIRED FOR HAT AND BAG
• 1/2 yard of wool felt
FRINGED FELT CASUAL HAT
Make this hat of any color wool
felt or use a combination of color, using one color felt for
hat and a contrasting color felt for fringe trimming.
CUTTING FABRICS
Use pattern on page 73 for hat.
Lay pattern on a double piece of felt and mark around
pattern on felt and cut out. Mark back and front on each piece of felt and mark side seams as indicated on pattern.
ASSEMBLING
(Illus. 1)
Match notches on
center pieces,
baste together and stitch.
Steam seam open, and (Illus. 2) stitch each side of seam flat. Trim off excess material on
seams.
(Illus. 3) Match front of each side
piece to front of center piece, and
baste together on side seam.
Stitch and
steam press seam open and (Illus. 4)
stitch each side seam flat. Trim
seams.
FRINGE TRIMMING (Illus. 5) Cut a strip of felt
1"x36". Fringe one
side of felt 1/2" deep and make
fringe 1/16" wide. (Illus. 6) Start at
back seam of hat and fit fringe strip
of felt around hat to underside. Baste and stitch felt strip to hat.
Cut two strips of felt 1" x 3".
Fringe each side of these strips of
felt 3/8" deep. (Illus. 7)
Gather down center of each strip
and sew into a little felt pom pom. Pin
each rounded flap in front to back seam, mark, and sew together with
pom pom (Illus. 8).
Pattern for Fringed Felt Casual Hat
Fringed Felt Bag
FRINGED FELT BAG PATTERN TO MATCH FRINGED CASUAL HAT
Use pattern on page 75 for bag. Place pattern marked No. 1 on a fold of paper and
cut pattern double. Use pattern marked No.
2 single. Place pattern No. 1 on felt and mark
around pattern on felt and cut out two pieces. Place pattern marked No. 2 on felt, mark
around pattern on felt and cut out two pieces. Cut
three strips of felt 1" x 27" and fringe on side of felt strip 1/2"
deep (refer to hat Illus. 5 and 7). Cut one strip of felt 1/4" x 18"
for loops on bag. Cut two strips of felt 1/2" x 18" for draw
strings to run through loops on bag.
ASSEMBLING BAG
Slip felt fringed strip
between No. 1 felt pieces
extending fringed edge and baste both pieces
together (Illus. 1).
Cut strip of felt for
loops into 2" pieces, fold
double and baste two inches apart around top of bag (Illus. 2).
Baste and stitch fringed strips of felt all
around both pieces marked No. 2 and stitch,
then baste one on each side of bag at top
over loops, sewing through loops, and stitch (Illus. 3).
Pull one draw string
strip of felt through loops from one side and
back. Pull second draw string of felt through loops and back on opposite side.
Finish ends of draw strings with small
fringed tassels (Illus. 4).
Pattern for Fringed Felt Bag
Felt Pattern hat a Three-Piece Crown and Felt Brim
MATERIAL REQUIRED
• Use a large 14"x 16" fur felt hood
• Pattern on page 78-79
• 3/4 of a yard of headband ribbon
Place crown pattern pieces on a fold of paper, trace
and cut pattern double.
When making three-piece crown of fur felt, a crinoline foundation is not required.
Trace and cut each piece of brim pattern
CUTTING AND SEWING CROWN
Wrap felt hood in a damp towel for several hours before blocking.
(Illus. 1) Cut felt open on one side from bottom to top, and lay felt out flat on a pressing
board and cover felt with a damp cloth. Steam press felt,,
stretching felt as you steam press. Place all pieces of
pattern on felt before marking. Mark around pattern (using
tailor's chalk), cut out felt on this line.
(Illus. 2) Join
ends of No. 2 piece
of felt, stitch and
steam press seam open (Illus. 3).
(Illus. 4) Sew each side of seam
by hand, using pick stitches close to
seam.
(Illus. 5)
Match notches and join No. 2 and No. 1 pieces of felt, stitch (Illus. 6) and
steam press seam open. Sew each side of seam down by
hand, using pick stitches close to
seam.
(Illus. 7) Join ends of No. 3 piece of felt, stitch and steam press seam
open (Illus. 3). Sew each side of seam
by hand using pick stitches close to
seam (Illus. 4). Match notches and join No. 2 and No. 3
pieces of felt, stitch and steam press seam open (Illus. 3). Sew each side of seam by hand using pick stitches close to
seam (Illus. 4).
STEAMING AND FITTING CROWN
Put felt crown on utility head
block wrong side out. Steam and pull
felt down to fit block, and pin crown to
block. (Illus. 8) Measure your head from back to front and from side to
side the depth felt crown is to be and
mark these
measurements on
felt. Draw a line
around block on
felt (Illus. 9). When
crown is dry
remove crown and trim off excess felt on crown 1/2" below
line (Illus. 10).
This crown can be used with many different styled brims.
BRIM FOR THREE PIECE CROWN
Lay each piece of brim pattern on felt and mark around pattern (using tailor's chalk) on felt and cut out on
line. Sew brim pieces together, back and front, using a
furring stitch. Press front and back of brim flat with a
steam iron or damp cloth and iron.
WIRING BRIM
Measure a wire to fit edge of brim and join wire with a wire joiner. Turn felt on edge over wire 1/4" with joiner
in back. Baste around edge of brim. Sew down using an
overcast stitch.
SEWING CROWN AND BRIM TOGETHER
Match front markings on brim and crown, pin together. Sew together. Turn seam around headsize up
and slip hat on Utility block and steam and pin to block
and let dry.
Finish headsize with a swirled headband.
Instructions on page 45.
Three-Piece Crown and Brim Pattern
Felt Pattern Hat MATERIAL REQUIRED
• one 16" fur felt hood
• 3/4 yd. headband ribbon.
• Pattern on Page 81
CUTTING
Wrap felt in a damp cloth for several hours. Cut
felt hood up one side to extreme tip.
Lay felt flat on board, steam and
pull into a flat piece. Pin pattern pieces
on felt; mark around pattern on felt with tailor's chalk, cut out felt on this line, (Illus. 1).
SEWING
Match notches on No. 1 and No. 3 and baste
together, making a 1/4"
seam, stitch. Steam press
seam open, and remove bastings, (Illus. 2).
Match notches
and baste to No. 2. Stitch and steam
press seam open,
(Illus. 3). Use a small pad
underneath felt when pressing this
seam open, (Illus. 4). Finish headsize with a blocked
headband. Instructions for blocked headband on page 46.
Pattern for Felt Hat
BERETS
THIS VERSATILE HAT IS USED FROM SEASON TO SEASON IN SOME FORM.
MATERIALS USED TO MAKE A BERET ARE
UNLIMITED. ALWAYS BECOMING AND A
STYLE FOR ALL AGES.
SEVERAL DIFFERENT PATTERNS FOR
BERETS AND DIRECTIONS TO MAKE THEM ARE GIVEN ON FOLLOWING PAGES.
Beaded Velvet Beret
• Use beret pattern, page 85
• Beret beading pattern.
MATERIAL REQUIRED
• 3/4 yard of rayon velvet. Millinery velvet, taffeta, faille or felt may also be used for beaded berets.
• 3/4 yard of crinoline. If beret is to be made of felt, the crinoline is not required.
• 1 sheet of sheet wadding.
• Small piece of silk elastic net.
MARKING AND CUTTING Place pattern on crinoline.
Using tailor's chalk or pencil, mark around pattern on
crinoline and cut out. (Illus. 1)
Pin and baste crinoline to sheet
wadding and cut out.
(Illus. 2) Place sheet wadding and crinoline on wrong
side of velvet with sheet
wadding next to the velvet.
Baste sheet wadding and
crinoline to the velvet and cut out.
SEWING
(Illus. 3) Sewing through all three pieces (velvet, crinoline
and sheet wadding), baste dart
in top of beret. Stitch dart and
steam seam
open. (Illus. 4) Baste seam in
back of bottom part of beret. Stitch and steam seam
open. Match markings.
Place right sides of top and bottom of beret together and
baste around edge (Illus. 5),
stitch. Turn beret right side out
and steam seam around brim
edge until smooth and
even.
(Illus. 6) Bead beret
before lining.
BEADING
Trace beading pattern on tissue paper and cut out. Pin plain edge of
pattern on edge of beret with design edge pointing
toward the center and starting in back. If beret is
cut and seamed exactly like pattern, twelve designs fit around brim. Pin design pattern on top edge of
beret and baste around design.
Baste design on underside of beret to correspond with top. Sew any kind of beads desired
on beret, following design basting threads.
LINING
Lay same beret pattern on taffeta, mark around
pattern and cut out. Seam dart in top part of beret and stitch seam in bottom part. Place right sides of
top and bottom together and stitch around edge.
Slip lining
into beret
and baste to headsize.
FINISHING
(Illus. 7) Finish headsize
with a ribbon headband. Do not swirl ribbon.
Dampen ribbon slightly and place beret on block
until ribbon headband dries.
Instructions for beret headband page 46.
Beaded Beret Pattern
Half of pattern. Trace and join section 2
to section 4.
Facing pattern.
Trace section 1 and 2 and
join.
Beaded Velvet Bag to Match Beret
MARKING AND CUTTING
Lay bag pattern on crinoline and mark
around pattern on crinoline. Make three
sections like pattern. Pin crinoline pieces to sheet wadding and cut out. Lay sheet
wadding and crinoline on wrong side of velvet, with sheet
wadding next to the velvet. (Illus. 1) Baste sheet wadding and
crinoline to the velvet and cut out.
(Illus. 2) Cut three pieces of bag beading pattern out of elastic net. Lap each
piece and join, making three circles of elastic
net. Cut a strip of elastic net 2" wide and 15" long.
SEWING (Illus. 3) Baste two side seams together
and stitch.
(Illus. 4) Then stitch
third side up 2" from bottom.
(Illus. 5) Baste
bottom seams together
and stitch. Steam press
seams open.
BEADING
(Illus. 6) Cover outside of elastic net circles
with velvet and bead around
circles, making four rows of
beads.
Slip these circles over corner of bag and
sew down to bag (Illus. 7).
HANDLE
(Illus. 8) Cover both
sides of 15" strip of elastic
net with velvet and insert at top opening of
bag and sew to bag firmly.
ZIPPER
(Illus. 9) Insert a 6" zipper in opening in third
side of bag.
LINING
Using bag pattern, cut lining in three
pieces. Sew two side seams of lining and
stitch third side up 2" from bottom. Place lining in bag.
(Illus. 10) Turn lining in along opening
and hem around zipper.
Pattern for Beaded Velvet Bag
Wool Felt Beret
MATERIAL REQUIRED
• Use Beret Pattern on page 85
• 1/2 yard of felt is required to make the beret
• 3/4 yard of grosgrain ribbon for headband
CUTTING PATTERN AND MATERIAL
(Illus. 1) Place pattern on a fold
of paper and cut out. Cut two of these
patterns, and on one pattern cut out headsize as
marked on pattern.
(Illus. 2) Mark back and front of
pattern.
(Illus. (3 and 3a) Place pattern
on felt and mark
around felt with
tailor's chalk and
cut out.
SEWING BERET TOGETHER
(Illus. 4) Baste dart in top of Beret, stitch and press seam open.
(Illus. 4a) Baste seam in facing brim of Beret and stitch (Illus.
5) and press seam open (Illus. 6).
(Illus. 7) Place right sides of top
brim and facing brim of Beret
together. Baste around
brim edge, (Illus.
8) stitch and
remove basting threads. Turn
Beret to right side. (Illus. 9) Slip
a piece of paper rope large enough to
fit around edge of beret brim inside
Beret and hold over steam,
manipulating edge of beret with fingers until edge around
brim is smooth and even. Instructions for Beret headband
page 46.
BERET WITH A BAND
Follow above instructions for Beret except headband finish. (Illus.
10) Cut a felt band double the width
you want band to be and your
headsize length. Join ends of band
together with a furring stitch.
Fold band
lengthwise and steam press (Illus.
11).
Fold band again into quarters
(Illus. 12) and
mark. Fold Beret
headsize into
quarters and mark. Have seams on band and seam
on Beret together, match markings
on band and Beret headsize, pin
together and stitch (Illus. 13).
Pattern for Small Beret
Stitched Beret and Matching Bag
MATERIAL REQUIRED FOR BERET AND BAG
• 1 yard of foundation felt
• 1 yard of fabric
• 6 spools of cotton thread for stitching
• 3/4 yard of ribbon for headband
• Use Beret pattern page 85.
FOUNDATION FOR BERET
Felt must be shrunk before using. This is done by placing a damp cloth
over the felt and ironing (Illus. 1). Do
this on both sides of felt, then remove
cloth and iron felt dry. Be careful not to stretch the felt.
(Illus. 2) Pin pattern on
foundation felt. Using tailor's chalk,
mark around entire pattern, including
headsize. Mark back seam, notches and darts on felt. Cut out (except
headsize) allowing 1/2" for seams.
CUTTING BERET
Place foundation felt on wrong
side of beret fabric on the bias (back
to front). Place foundation felt pattern,
with pencil lines up, on wrong side of
beret fabric on the bias (back to front). (Illus. 3) Baste felt
foundation to fabric on the line around outer brim,
headsize and all openings. Mark all notches. Cut out fabric.
STITCHING
(Illus. 4) Machine stitch design on felt side of top and bottom pieces as
follows:
(Illus. 5)
divide top and
(Illus. 6) bottom
pieces into quarters, stitch from brim edge to center. Fill in each quarter section with rows of even stitching, including
headsize. Machine foot is a good measure for distances
between rows of stitching. Press on felt side using a damp
cloth.
ASSEMBLING BRIMS
(Illus. 7) Baste and stitch center
back seams and darts. Trim and press seams open. Clip darts to point. Match
notches on brim edges, baste and
stitch brims together. Be sure this seam is stitched evenly.
Trim off each seam separately 1/8" from stitching. Cut out
around headsize 1" inside line. Turn beret right side out. Place a round pressing pad inside beret and steam press
seam around brim edge. Steam headsize, pulling and
stretching material to fit your correct headsize Utility
Block. More material may have to be cut around head-
size. Be careful not to cut out too much, however, since felt will stretch.
HEADBAND
Refer to page 46 for Beret headband.
Stitched Bag to Match Beret
Use 3-cornered bag pattern, page 88.
CUTTING BAG
Place pattern on foundation felt and cut out
three identical sections. Baste these three felt sections to wrong
side of material and cut out.
STITCHING
(Illus. 8) Machine stitch each section on felt side from outer edge to center. Fill in
each section with rows of even stitching the
same distance apart as stitching on beret.
Steam press each section.
(Illus. 9) Sew the three sections together, stitching two seams from top to
bottom. Stitch the third side up from bottom
for 1/2" and down from top for 1/2". Insert a
zipper in this side opening . Stitch three
seams together to form bottom of bag and turn bag inside out. Steam and press all
seams open.
BAG HANDLE
(Illus. 10] Cut a strip of
material 4" wide and 15" long for
handle. Fold strip together
lengthwise on wrong side and stitch. Pull fold through to right side. Fold strip in half and pin
ends in opening at top of bag. Turn top of bag in 1/4" and sew
securely around handle by hand.
LINING
Cut lining and assemble exactly like outside of bag. Press
and slip into bag. Turn edges of lining under around zipper and
slip stitch.
Beret Made of Wool Material
BERET MADE OF WOOL MATERIAL
Use pattern on page 91
Place pattern on a fold of paper and cut pattern double.
Cut two brim patterns, one a solid pattern for top beret brim, and one brim pattern for facing, with headsize cut out on
correct headsize line, marked on pattern, either small, medium
or large.
Place headband pattern on a fold of paper and cut length of headband to correspond with beret pattern headsize.
Mark back and front of pattern on brims and on band.
MATERIAL REQUIRED
• 1/3 yard of foundation felt. Shrink felt before using.
• 1/3 of a yard of silk lining
• 1/3 yard of wool material
• 3/4 of a yard of headsize ribbon
• Strip of buckram 1" x 24"
CUTTING MATERIALS
(Illus. 1) Place brim pattern on
foundation felt, mark around pattern
on felt and cut out felt.
(Illus. 2)
Baste felt brims to
material and cut
out material. (Illus. 3) Place brim patterns on
lining material and cut out lining.
Place headband pattern on material and cut out material.
SEWING BERET TOGETHER
(Illus. 4) Pin brims together on
wrong side and baste a 1/4" seam
around brim edge and stitch.
Turn Beret to right side. Use a paper rope pad to fit inside beret brim edge.
Steam edge of beret thoroughly over this paper pad, remove paper pad when beret is dry.
Baste lining brim pieces together and slip into Beret and baste together around headsize.
(Illus. 5) Join ends of headband
together. Stitch and press seam open.
Fold lengthwise and press. Baste over buckram strip.
Measure headband into quarters and mark. Measure
Beret headsize into quarters and mark.
Pin seam on band to back of Beret.
Match marking on band with markings on Beret headsize, pin and baste to Beret.
Finish headsize with a headband.
See instructions for Beret headband on page 46.
Beret Made of Wool Material
BERET MADE OF WOOL MATERIAL
Use pattern on page 91
Place pattern on a fold of paper and cut pattern double.
Cut two brim patterns, one a solid pattern for top beret brim, and one brim pattern for facing, with headsize cut out on
correct headsize line, marked on pattern, either small, medium
or large.
Place headband pattern on a fold of paper and cut length of headband to correspond with beret pattern headsize.
Mark back and front of pattern on brims and on band.
MATERIAL REQUIRED
• 1/3 yard of foundation felt. Shrink felt before using.
• 1/3 of a yard of silk lining
• 1/3 yard of wool material
• 3/4 of a yard of headsize ribbon
• Strip of buckram 1" x 24"
CUTTING MATERIALS
(Illus. 1) Place brim pattern on
foundation felt, mark around pattern
on felt and cut out felt.
(Illus. 2) Baste felt brims to
material and cut
out material. (Illus. 3) Place
brim patterns on
lining material and cut out lining.
Place headband pattern on material and cut out material.
SEWING BERET TOGETHER
(Illus. 4) Pin brims together on wrong side and baste a 1/4" seam
around brim edge and stitch.
Turn Beret to right side. Use a paper rope pad to fit inside beret brim edge.
Steam edge of beret thoroughly over this paper pad, remove paper pad when beret is dry.
Baste lining brim pieces together and slip into Beret and baste together around headsize.
(Illus. 5) Join ends of headband
together. Stitch and press seam open.
Fold lengthwise and press. Baste over
buckram strip.
Measure headband into quarters and mark. Measure
Beret headsize into quarters and mark.
Pin seam on band to back of Beret.
Match marking on band with markings on Beret headsize, pin and baste to Beret.
Finish headsize with a headband.
See instructions for Beret headband on page 46.
Child's Beret of Felt
MATERIAL REQUIRED
• Use pattern for child's Beret
• Place pattern on fold of paper and cut both pieces double.
• 1/3 of a yard of felt.
MARKING AND CUTTING FELT
(Illus. 1) Place pattern
on felt and mark around
pattern on felt with tailor's chalk. Notch material to match notches on pattern.
No. 1 piece of pattern cut out two of felt.
No. 2 piece of pattern cut out one of felt.
BERET SIDE CROWN
(Illus. 2) Match notches and
baste No. 1 pieces together. Stitch
seam open and press seam open.
Baste on each side of seam and stitch flat.
SEWING SIDE CROWN TO TOP
Match notches and baste No. 1 and No. 2 pieces
together. Stitch and press seam open. Baste each side of seam open and stitch seam flat.
CUTTING AND SEWING BAND
Cut a strip of felt 1 1/4" wide and 1" longer than your head measurement. Join seam making a 1/2" seam. Stitch
and press seam open. Divide felt strip into quarters and
mark. Divide Beret headsize into quarters and mark. Pin
felt strip (with seam in back) to headsize. Match markings,
baste together and stitch. Turn balance of strip under and stitch.
Pattern for Child's Beret
Sectional Beret
REQUIREMENTS
• 1/4 yard of material
• 1/4 yard lining
• 1/4 yard unsized elastic net
• 3/4 yard ribbon headband
CUTTING BERET SECTIONS
Trace and cut out pattern sections. Mark and number each section, exactly like pattern in book.
(Illus. 1) Lay pattern sections
on unsized elastic net, draw a line
around pattern sections on net, also mark net exactly as pattern is
marked. Baste each section of
elastic net on wrong side of material, and cut out material.
Cut out ten sections of lining.
JOINING BERET
(Illus. 2) Join No. 10 section and
No. 1 section, seam sides marked F
together, making a
1/4" seam. (Illus. 3)
Stitch and press
seam open.
(Illus. 4)
Continue adding sections according
to numbers, joining
No. 2 to No. 1 until
all sections have been sewn together and seams steamed open. Stitch each section and press seam open before
adding next section. Join, baste and stitch lining in same
order as above. Press lining. Place in hat with seams
facing elastic net.
FINISHING HEADSIZE
(Illus. 5) Turn bottom around
headsize up 1/4", slip on Utility head
block and steam around headsize patting material around headsize.
Allow to dry on block. Finish inside
headsize with a swirled headband
ribbon.
Pattern for Sectional Beret
100,
101,
102�Pattern for Sectional Beret
Stitched Casual Hat and Bag
MATERIAL REQUIRED
• 3/4 yard of fabric
• 1 yard of foundation felt
• 1/4 yard of lining
• Ribbon headband
• 3 spools of thread for stitching
STITCHED CASUAL HAT AND BAG
Four piece crown pattern on page 113 can be used instead of six piece crown if desired. Any material can be
used to make this hat and bag; wool, silk, velvet or cotton
material. Shrink foundation felt before using.
CUTTING CASUAL HAT CROWN
Lay pattern for crown sections on felt. Draw a line around pattern on felt and cut out six sections. Lay these
felt sections on fabric as pattern indicates. Baste around
each section and cut out fabric.
STITCHING CROWN
(Illus. 1) Start rows of stitching at
bottom of each section. Stitch to top of
section and then down to bottom of
section again, continue stitching row
after row until section is entirely filled with stitching. Use machine foot to gage distance between
rows of stitching. Fill each section with stitching before
joining together.
(Illus. 2) Baste each section of
crown together starting at top and basting down. Then stitch on machine
and trim seams close on each section.
BLOCKING CROWN
Pull crown on correct headsize block wrong side out. Steam press
seams open then steam crown
smoothing out wrinkles and pulling
crown down to fit block. Pin to block around bottom of
crown. Let dry on block. (Illus. 3) Measure and mark depth
and width crown is to be and run a basting thread around crown on these marks.
Mark back and front of
crown. Increase or decrease
brim pattern at back seam and
lay brim pattern on felt. Mark around pattern on felt allowing
1/2" for seams and cut out felt. Lay felt on wrong side of
fabric on the bias and baste felt and fabric together and
cut out. Now lay fabric side of brim on right side of
material on the bias, baste together (Illus. 4) and cut out.
STITCHING BRIM
(Illus. 5) Stitch all three pieces
together around brim edge on
machine. Trim seam and remove basting.
(Illus. 6) Open brim and join
together in back, seaming top side of
felt and fabric and facing side of fabrics together in one continuous
seam.
(Illus. 7) Turn facing fabric over
felt side of brim and baste around brim
edge. Steam press brim. Stitch, starting 1/4" from edge of brim for
first row of stitching and continue
stitching row after row (Illus. 8) until headsize line is
reached. Mark front of brim.
ASSEMBLING CROWN AND BRIM
(Illus. 9) Have crown on block
and slip brim over crown. Match
markings on crown and brim and pin brim to crown on basting line around
crown. Make any adjustments
necessary before stitching crown and
brim together.
(Illus. 10) Trim off excess
material inside headsize.
LINING AND HEADBAND
Cut six crown sections of lining, join and stitch sections together. Steam press lining on block and slip
inside crown and baste around headsize. Finish headsize
with a swirled headband.
Pattern for Stitched Casual Hat
Stitched Bag to Match Casual Hat
STITCHED BAG TO MATCH CASUAL HAT
Lay pattern on toundation felt. Mark
around pattern and mark notches on felt.
Cut out felt and baste felt pieces to fabric allowing 1/2". Cut out fabric. (Illus. 1) Stitch each piece on felt side using width of
machine foot as distance between rows of stitching. Start on
outer edge of each piece and stitch row after row until center of
each piece is reached. Steam press pieces.
ASSEMBLING EACH PIECE
Match notches on side pieces with center piece, baste and stitch together. Turn edge of fabric on handle and bag flap over
and hem to felt.
LINING BAG
(Illus. 2) Cut a lining like pattern. Baste
and stitch together. Press and slip lining into
bag. Baste lining around handle, flap and plain side of bag top.
(Illus. 3) Sew button
to bag and loop to flap
for bag closing.
Pattern for Stitched Bag to Match Casual Hat
107, 108, 109, 110�Stitched Bag to Match
Casual Hat
.
Ribbon Hat and Bag
CASUAL RIBBON HAT AND BAG
Use ribbon hat pattern on page
114 Use ribbon bag pattern on page 116
MATERIAL REQUIRED
• 3 bolts of 1" ribbon
• 1 yard of crinoline
CROWN
Cut six sections of crinoline from crown pattern.
(Illus. 1) Baste ribbon flat on
crinoline, slightly
lapping each row. (Illus. 2) Cut
off each row of
ribbon even with crinoline. Stitch
each row of ribbon
to crinoline. (Illus. 3) Join
each section with a 1/4" seam. Be
sure points of sections meet evenly on
top of crown.
(Illus. 4) Place crown wrong
side out on utility
block and press seams open (Illus. 5).
(Illus. 6) Turn crown right side out,
place an utility block. Steam and pull crown down to fit block, pinning to block
around the bottom. Let dry on block.
Mark back and front of crown.
BRIM
Cut two brim sections of crinoline
from brim pattern.
(Illus. 7) Starting in back, baste
ribbon to crinoline from brim edge to
headsize, slightly lapping each row. Increase lapping each row of ribbon at
headsize to fit crinoline. Join brim in
back with a narrow seam. Press seam
open. Mark back and front of brim. Make facing in the
same way.
(Illus. 8) Baste top and bottom brims together on wrong side and
stitch. Turn brim right side out and
press. Place brim on utility block.
Match markings on crown and brim
and pin together. Baste brim to crown, then stitch
around headsize (Illus. 9).
LINING
Using thin silk, follow same pattern for lining. Stitch sections together. Steam on block
and let dry. (See illustrations 3 and 4.) Remove lining
from block and slip into ribbon crown. Baste around headsize. Finish headsize with a
swirled headband.
TRIMMING
(Illus. 10) Trim with flat tailored
bows on either side of crown. This hat
can be folded for traveling convenience.
Pattern for Ribbon Hat
Ribbon Bag to Match Hat
CUTTING AND SEWING
Cut four sections of crinoline. Baste ribbon to each piece of crinoline, lapping
each row slightly. Trim ribbon to fit crinoline.
Stitch each row of ribbon flat on crinoline.
(Illus. 1) Baste four sections together, then
stitch, making a 1/4" seam. Press seams open.
LINING
Follow same pattern for lining. Stitch four sections together. Slip lining over bag
and turn bag right side out. (Illus. 2) Baste
lining to ribbon around top of bag.
FINISHING TOP OF BAG
(Illus. 3) Baste two rows of ribbon
around top inside of bag. Baste first row on
inside over lining edge, then baste another row around the top of
that row.
(Illus. 4) Add two
rows of ribbon on outside
of bag around top. Starting in center of one section, turn end of ribbon under
and baste one row to center of opposite
section. Cut ribbon off and turn under.
Take another length of ribbon, turn end under and starting
where first ribbon left off baste second ribbon to opposite
section. Cut ribbon off and turn under. Baste another row of ribbon around top of one piece. Stitch each row of ribbon flat.
DRAW STRINGS
(Illus. 5) Fold two 30" lengths of ribbon
in half and stitch flat. Draw one piece
through opening in ribbon, around bag and
out through
same opening. (Illus. 6)
Draw the other
piece of ribbon through opposite opening,
around bag and out through same opening. Finish ends of ribbon
strips and join strips together.
Ribbon Bag Pattern
Flowered Hat
DESCRIPTION
Hats made entirely of flowers may be made on buckram frames, wire frames or on
nylon foundations. Small flowers are used
when the entire hat is to be made of flowers
although turbans or very small hats are sometimes made of larger flowers. Bunches of
flowers are taken apart and each flower is sewn or tacked to the
hat separately. When making an entire hat of flowers, remember
not to use too large a frame or the hat will be top heavy.
FLOWERED HAT MADE ON BUCKRAM
Cover buckram frame with thin taffeta
in the same color as the flowers. Pin flowers
to frame just close enough together to cover
foundation. Sew flowers to frame by tacking in center of flower. If petals need to be sewn
to frame, tack edge of petal only. Avoid
sewing flowers on too tightly. If buckram
frame has a brim, plain taffeta facing on underside of brim is
pretty and may be done after all the flowers have been sewn on crown and top of brim.
FLOWERED HAT MADE ON WIRE FRAME
First cover wire
frame with sized georgette. Tack flowers
to georgette in the same
manner as above. In this
kind of hat, flowers are also sewn to facing on underside of brim.
FLOWERED HAT MADE ON NYLON FOUNDATION
Arrange and pin flowers on foundation. Bind edge of
foundation.
Helmet
HELMET
The following instructions apply to both helmet patterns. Any kind of material may be used. Wool,
tweed, satin, taffeta and pique are most
satisfactory.
Trace pattern and lay on fold of paper and cut double.
MATERIAL REQUIRED
• 3/8 yard of material for outside of helmet
• 3/8 yard of crinoline for foundation
• 3/8 yard of sized georgette for lining
CUTTING AND SEWING
Lay pattern on sized georgette
and cut out. Mark and notch each piece of material like pattern. (Illus.
1) Match notches and baste pieces
together, making a 1/4" seam. Stitch
seam on machine. Place on correct
headsize block, with seams on outside. Pull material down
until smooth, and pin to block
around the bottom.
(Illus. 2) Press thoroughly with a
steam iron and let dry on block. To
remove from block, slip a corset stay between block and material and
carefully loosen material from block.
Cut, sew and block crinoline foundation in the same manner. Now
cut out material for outside of helmet.
Match notches and baste pieces
together, making a 1/4" seam. Stitch seam on machine.
(Illus. 3) Turn each side of seam
flat and baste down, then stitch down
each side of seam. Block as above,
being sure to smooth out all wrinkles, and let dry on block.
ASSEMBLING HELMET
Place georgette lining on block with seams on outside. Place crinoline foundation on block over
georgette. Now put outside material on block, over the
crinoline, with seams on the inside.
(Illus. 4) Pin through all three
pieces to block and
steam again.
Turn under,
baste edges around bottom of helmet and
steam. (Illus. 5)
When dry,
remove from block and slip stitch edge around bottom of helmet
(Illus. 6)
Pattern for Helmet
Calot�Open or Closed Crown
CALOT�OPEN OR CLOSED CROWN
This calot may be made of any
material, fur or felt, pique, taffeta, velvet, wool, cotton, etc.
MATERIAL REQUIRED
• 3/8 yard of material for outside of calot
• 3/8 yard of crinoline for foundation
• 3/8 yard of lining material
• 3/4 yard of ribbon for headband
FOUNDATION
Lay pattern on crinoline. Mark around pattern on crinoline and cut out.
(Illus. 1) Baste seams together as
indicated on pattern, then stitch.
When making open crown calot, turn edge under around
opening and baste flat. If crown is closed, cut crinoline
circle like pattern circle. Baste circle on calot and stitch.
(Illus. 2) Pull this crinoline
foundation on correct headsize block.
Steam foundation, pulling and pinning
it down to fit block.
COVERING FOUNDATION
Lay calot pattern on fabric
for covering. Mark around pattern on
fabric and cut out. Baste and stitch like foundation. Place on block
wrong side out and steam press all seams open. Remove
from block, turn right side out and slip covering over
foundation. Pin crinoline foundation and fabric foundation
together. Turn edge around face under and hem to underside. (Illus. 3) Steam this edge.
LINING
Cut lining from same pattern and sew together as
described above. Place lining on block and steam press.
Remove from block and slip lining inside calot. Turn lining edges under and slip stitch around edge.
FELT CALOT MADE FROM THIS PATTERN
Use a small felt hood. Wrap felt
hood in a damp cloth for several hours
before blocking. Pull felt hood over block and steam until soft and pliable,
pulling felt down to fit block. Pin felt to
block around the bottom and let dry
on block. Cut a crinoline foundation from pattern as explained. Sew and block foundation as above. When felt
is dry, slip blocked crinoline foundation over felt on block
and mark around crinoline on felt with tailor's chalk. (Illus.
4) Remove felt from block and cut off excess felt on this line. Turn edge under 1/2" around face and hem to under
side. Block a headband ribbon and sew around inside
headsize.
Brim pattern for Felt Calot
Cut open bottom of felt hood and press flat. Place brim pattern on felt. Mark around pattern with tailor's
chalk and cut out. Using the same pattern, cut out two
more identical sections (three brim sections in all). Bind
each section with No. 3 grosgrain ribbon (instructions for
ribbon binding on page 59). Adjust and pin each section around crown as pictured and sew.
Pattern for Calot
Scalloped Calot
MATERIAL REQUIRED
• 3/8 yard any material
• 3/8 yard crinoline
• 3/8 yard sized honeycomb
• 1 yard bead trimming
CUTTING CALOT
Cut three large sections and three small sections of material, crinoline and honeycomb for lining.
SEWING
(Illus. 1) Lay material sections on
corresponding crinoline sections and
baste together. Join sections together
alternately�a large section and a small section�and stitch, making a
1/4" seam.
BLOCKING
Pull on headblock with material side
next to block. (Illus. 2) Steam press each
seam open and pin bottom edge of calot
to block. Allow to dry on block.
(Illus. 3) When
dry, remove from block
and baste 1/4" hem
around each scallop. Steam press hem.
LINING
Stitch lining sections together alternately as above. Pull lining over
block and steam press each seam
open. Pm bottom edge of lining to
block and let dry on block. When dry, slip calot on block
over lining, matching scallops of calot and lining, and pin
together. Turn edge of lining under around scallops and slip stitch lining to bottom of calot. (Illus. 4) Pin pearl
trimming around edge of scallops and sew, using overcast
stitch.
Pattern for Scalloped Calot
Turbans
TURBANS
A Draped Turban can be made of almost any material that will drape into soft,folds and is
entirely dependent on the clever draping for style.
To drape a professional looking Turban requires
real skill to manipulate and design the material into a smart becoming hat. Gives the Designer an opportunity to express
creative ability. To make a draped Turban you start from the
headband, then the foundation and then the Turban is draped
last. Material is draped and sewn to the foundation last.
MATERIAL REQUIRED
• 1 to 1 1/2 yards of material
• 1/2 yard of sized georgette
• 1/2 yard of crinoline
• 1 yard headband ribbon
• Utility headblock in the correct headsize
HOW TO MEASURE HEAD FOR FOUNDATION
Decide where turban is to be
worn on head. (Illus. 1) Start a tape measure at that point and measure
over the top of head to hollow at back
of head. Measure desired depth of
turban on head from side to side. Mark
back to front measurement and side to side measurement on block. Also mark eye line measurement on block. (Eye
line is any indentation around face line of turban.) To
measure eye line, start tape measure at top center of
head and measure to where indentation is desired and mark this measurement on block. Draw line around block
to mark these measurements.
HEADBAND
Use No. 5
grosgrain sawtooth ribbon. Wet ribbon
and squeeze dry
(Illus. 2). Start
ribbon in back of
block with bottom edge of ribbon on the line. Pull and stretch ribbon and pin
around block, turning ribbon over at eye line (Illus. 3) and
continuing around block until ribbon meets in back. Turn
ribbon under at back.
FOUNDATION
Place sized georgette over block
on the bias (Illus. 4). (Run bias from back to front.) Steam, pull down and
pin georgette to ribbon headband. Sew
to center of headband all the way
around. Cut off excess georgette just
below sewing on headband. Repeat same process with a layer of crinoline over georgette.
Steam, block and pin crinoline to headband and sew. Cut
off excess crinoline and let foundation dry on block.
Cut a square 14" x 15" of material used to cover turban. Pin and block over foundation in the same manner
used to make foundation, sewing to headband and cutting
off excess material.
DRAPING TURBAN
(Illus. 5) Cut a bias piece of
material used to cover turban 12" x 36" for drape and baste to a bias piece
of georgette. Then use your own idea
pinning and draping bias material until desired effect is
accomplished. Tuck ends of drape under folds to finish and
tack on foundation. Steam each fold and slip stitch drape around bottom of drape to headband.
(Illus. 6) If a rolled edge around
turban is desired, use a piece of paper
rope inside bias strip and wrap bias
material around paper rope, crushing material as you twist it around. Taper off ends of paper
rope and tack to foundation, then tack roll to foundation.
Two colors used to drape turban roll is very effective. Cut
two bias strips of material and wrap around roll alternating
colors.
Turban does not need another lining or headband.
>Fur Hats
FUR HATS
Fur hats can be made on a buckram frame or combined with felt. If the entire hat is to be made
of fur, be sure to choose a small or medium frame.
Fur has a tendency to make a hat bulky. If a larger hat is desired, combine fur and felt or velvet, or any other cloth
and fur combination. Use only short nap fur. Fluffy furs are
desirable only as trimming and even then use sparingly. To look
professional, fur hats require time and expert workmanship.
PERSIAN LAMB HAT
Follow directions on page 64 for
blocking felt crown. Trace pattern on page
129 for fur brim and fur ornament. Lay pattern on a fold of paper and cut pattern
double. Open pattern and lay flat on a piece
of elastic net (Illus. 1).
Mark around pattern on net and cut out elastic net on line marked. Slash elastic net
every 1/2" around
headsize (Illus. 2).
Whip stitch a strong
frame wire around edge of elastic net brim and stretch a 1/2" bias
strip of crinoline over wire and baste to
frame (Illus. 3). (Do not wire frame around
headsize.)
MAKING FUR BRIM
(Illus. 4) Dampen pelt side of fur with a
sponge and stretch fur as much as possible
without tearing pelt. Tack fur down to a
board and let fur dry. Pin brim pattern on
pelt side of fur on board and draw a line around pattern on pelt.
(Illus. 5) Carefully run a sharp razor
blade through pelt on line marked and gently
pull fur pieces apart.
MAKING FUR BRIM
(Illus. 6) Sew silk
tape around fur brim edge, using an overcast
stitch.
Pin fur brim on top
side of frame turning
tape over edge of frame and sewing tape to frame
(Illus. 7).
Make fur brim facing
the same as top brim, binding fur edge
with tape. On the facing turn tape under and sew down on pelt.
(Illus. 8)
Pin facing of fur to
frame and slip stitch fur brim together (Illus. 9)
around brim edge.
ASSEMBLING FUR BRIM AND FELT CROWN
(Illus. 10) Mark center of fur brim and
center of felt crown. Slip fur brim under felt crown on block and pin crown and brim
together. Sew crown and brim together taking small invisible
stitches on felt side.
FUR ORNAMENT FOR PERSIAN LAMB HAT
(Illus. 11) Trace ornament pattern and
cut out. Lay pattern on sized elastic net and
cut out.
Wire entire edge (Illus. 12) and bind edge
with crinoline.
(Illus. 13) Use
pattern to cut fur, cutting
fur in same manner as for brim.
Sew silk tape around
edge of fur (Illus. 14).
Sew one side of fur
to ornament foundation, sewing tape to foundation
(Illus.
15).
Sew
tape down on both sides of second piece of
fur (Illus. 16) and pin to other side of ornament.
Slip stitch both pieces of fur
together all around the edge of
ornament. Sew ornament as illustrated 17.
Pattern for Fur Brim
Maline Pom Pom
DESCRIPTION
Maline Pom Pom can be made larger or smaller by adjusting the size of the circle pattern used to cut maline circles. Pattern
given in book for maline pom pom is an 8" circle and makes a
large maline pom pom.
MATERIAL REQUIRED TO MAKE MALINE POM POM
• Four yards of maline in one color
• Two yards of each color if two colors are used.
FOLDING AND CUTTING MALINE
(Illus. 1) Open maline to
full width and fold maline over
8" and continue folding maline
over and over every 8" until
entire piece of maline has been folded.
(Illus. 2) Place circle
pattern on maline and cut
around circle pattern through all thicknesses of maline. Repeat
across width of folded maline,
cutting out maline circles
through all thicknesses until entire piece of folded maline
has been cut in circles.
FOLDING AND SEWING POM POM
(Illus. 3) Pin two maline circles together, fold circles in half and then
fold circles in quarters and pin. Repeat
until all maline circles have been
folded, and pinned.
(Illus. 4) Sew maline folded
circles together
(alternating a
closed side of folded maline
circle and an open side of folded maline circle) on point until all maline circles have been
sewn to Pom Pom.
USING TWO COLORS IN POM POM
(Illus. 5) Open each piece
of colored maline to full width,
and put both pieces of maline together.
(Illus. 6) Fold maline back and
forth every eight inches, instead of
over and over as when making Pom
Pom of one color maline.
Cut out maline circles the same as above.
When folding maline circles, have one circle of each
color together, then fold and proceed as above.
Pattern for Maline Pom Pom
Hat Trimmings and their Applications
• HOW TO APPLY HAT TRIMMINGS
• MAKING HAT PINS
• SEVERAL DIFFERENT HAT TRIMMINGS
• MAKING RIBBON AND TAFFETA BOWS
• MAKING A MALINE POM POM
• MAKING A RIBBON COCARDE
• MAKING BUCKLES
• MAKING RIBBON HAT BANDS
• MAKING RIBBON ORNAMENTS
Wedding Veils and Bridesmaids Hats
• FORMAL WEDDING VEILS
• INFORMAL WEDDING VEILS
• TIARAS
• BRIDESMAID HATS
How to Apply Trimmings
WINGS
To tack a wing on a hat as a trimming, sew wire on wing to hat. Then tack through wing underneath a feather on the wings,
tie threads on underside.
Always pin trimming on hat before sewing. Try hat on, make proper adjustments and then sew.
FLOWERS
Flowers are pinned on hat. Then try on hat, make
adjustments and sew stem of flower to hat. Tack under a petal of flower using a tie tack. To make an entire hat of flowers each
flower is sewn on separately usually in the center of flower.
Leaves are tacked on the very edge of leaf with the same color
green thread and a tie tack stitch is used.
BEADS
Beads
are applied
to felts by
slipping the
needle through a layer of the felt, but not through
to other side of felt as
stitches must not show. Felt is very easily
beaded.
When beading a velvet hat cover side you are going to bead with velvet first then sew on beads. Then cover other side of hat
with velvet.
VEILS Usually
one yard of veiling is
required for
the average hat. However some veils
are very small and require only % of a yard.
Sometimes the veiling is too wide for a particular hat. In this event cut off some of the width of the veiling, using the side that
has been cut at the top of the hat, turning in the cut part and
sewing or tacking in place, on hat. If a small visor veil is used,
swirl veiling with a steam iron and let veil dry before sewing in
hat. Then cut off all excess veiling inside headsize, after veil has been sewn in hat.
To drape a veil on a
hat, pin center of veiling
to center of hat. Put hat
on Utility head block and drape and fold veiling
until desired effect is attained.
Gather ends of veiling, (cutting off any
excess) wind ends of veil with a thread and tuck ends of veiling under edge of crown or brim or under any fold, here use your
own individuality. Ends of veiling may have narrow velvet ribbon
sewn on and veil tied at the back of hat.
BIRD CAGE VEIL
MATERIAL REQUIRED
• 3/4 yd. 18" veiling. Gather ends of veiling together,
starting 3" from each end at top of veil and slant shirring to other end of veil
(Illus. 1).
Bottom of veil
will be 27" and top
of veil will be 21". Gather top of veil to fit around front of crown and
adjust ends of veil on hat and tack
(Illus. 2).
Crush tissue
paper up under front of veil and pass through steam, pushing paper against
veil as you steam
(Illus. 3).
For a veil with
tab ends, use 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 yds. of veiling. After veil
is adjusted on hat, gather in ends of
veil and sew beads, buttons, or some
other trim to veil ends, lapping veil ends at back of hat
(Illus. 4).
Self Trimmings
SELF TRIMMINGS
Trace pattern No. 1. Lay pattern on elastic net. Mark around
pattern and cut out elastic net foundation.
Lay pattern on a double piece of fabric. Mark around pattern on fabric and allow 1/2" and cut out
fabric.
(Illus. 1) Turn fabric over edge of
foundation and sew fabric down around edge
of foundation.
Baste fabric piece to
other side, turn in edge of fabric and slip stitch
around edge of foundation (Illus.
2).
(Illus. 3). Start 1/4"
from outer edge of ornament and machine
stitch row after row following outline of
ornament until entire ornament surface is
covered with rows of stitching. Steam press
ornament. To make this ornament of felt cut out two pieces of felt like pattern and glue
felt pieces together with Milliner's Glue.
Trace pattern No. 2 and lay pattern on
crinoline. Mark around pattern on crinoline
and cut out. (Illus. 4) Baste crinoline on wrong side of a double piece of fabric around
outer edge and stitch on
machine.
Pull ornament right side out and baste around edge of ornament
(Illus. 5) and stitch.
(Illus. 6) Stitch
center of ornament as
illustration.
TO MAKE TUBING FOR CENTER OF ORNAMENT
Cut a bias strip of fabric 1" wide. Fold
strip lengthwise and stitch together down center of strip. Attach bodkin as Illustration 7 and pull cording to
right side. (Do not cut off seam in tubing as it acts as a padding
in tubing when pulled to right side.) Cut tubing into 2 1/4" strips.
Turn one end of tubing in with scissors and sew other end of
strip in center of ornament.
QUILL ORNAMENT
Use pattern No. 3.
Make Quill ornament, the same as No. 2.
(Illus. 9) Sew Quill Feeler in center of
ornament by pushing needle through side of
Quill Feeler and through center to other side of it, and into fabric as Illustration 9a.
Patterns for Self Trimmings
Ribbon Ornaments
PLEATED RIBBON ORNAMENT
MATERIAL REQUIRED
• 1 1/2 to 2 yards of 1 1/2" grosgrain ribbon, depending on size of ornament. Any width ribbon may be used.
PLEATING RIBBON
(Illus. 1) Make a 1/4" pleat in
ribbon and sew in
lower corner.
(Illus. 2) Make
another pleat in ribbon and fold
pleat almost even
with first pleat and sew in lower
corner, sewing through all
thicknesses of ribbon. Repeat until you have enough ribbon pleated to make the size circle
you want.
(Illus. 3) Join ends of pleated
ribbon to form a
circle. (Illus. 4) Cut
two pieces of
ribbon on the bias and slip through
center of ribbon circle. Sew to back of ornament.
RIBBON BANDS FOR CASUAL HAT BRIMS
RIBBON BAND NO. 1
Use 1 1/2" yards of 1 1/2"
grosgrain ribbon for band. Fold ribbon
over 1" and tack on underside of fold
(Illus. 5).
Turn each side of fold under on
right side of band, making a point in
center of each fold
(Illus. 6).
Sew point down (Illus. 7) with a large bead. Continue making ribbon folds 2" apart
around entire band (Illus. 8) turning each side of fold
under and sewing with a bead as described. Tack ribbon
band around crown of any casual hat.
RIBBON BAND NO. 2
Use two widths of ribbon for this band, and two colors
3/4" of a
yard of 1 1/2"
grosgrain
ribbon and
1 1/2 yards of 3/4" grosgrain ribbon in a contrasting color. (Illus. 9) Fold narrow ribbon
on a bias slant over wider ribbon and tack each fold to
wide ribbon band at top and bottom (Illus. 10).
Ribbon Bows
WIRING RIBBON FOR BOWS
Ribbon wire is used to wire ribbon, is available in black or
white. Use black for dark ribbons
and white for light ribbons. For some bows the ribbon wire is
sewn in the center of the ribbon, on the wrong side (Illus. 1).
Use thread in same color as ribbon to sew wire.
Take a stitch through wire and
ribbon on the wrong side of ribbon
and a long stitch on underneath
side of ribbon, through ribbon wire (Illus. 2).
Ribbon is also wired on the edge of ribbon (Illus. 3), stitching ribbon wire down one
side of ribbon and turning ribbon over once to cover the wire
(Illus. 4).
WIRING TAFFETA BOWS
Cut (taffeta bought by the yard)
into strips as wide as you want bows
to be, allowing 1/2" on each side for hemming. Turn taffeta edge over
1/4" (Illus. 5)
then turn over again 1/4" (Illus.
6) and stitch on machine. Do this to
each side of taffeta
strips.
Run a fine piece of lace wire
through these grooves (Illus. 7)
then make bows.
LOOP BOWS
Divide amount of ribbon you are using in half and start with one
end, gather together and sew (Illus.
8).
(Illus. 9) Loop ribbon under keeping
end on top.
(Illus. 10) Loop next loop under again and let
this end come from
underneath.
(Illus. 11) Cut a
small piece of ribbon and crush through and over
center to back of bow and sew.
BUTTERFLY BOW
Make three loops on each side making
one loop on one side
longer (Illus. 12).
After bow is completed and a soft
piece of ribbon crushed in
center of bow and sewn on back side of
bow (llus. 13).
Cut the center long loop
open on the bias
(Illus. 14).
TAILORED BOW
D
i
vide and mark ribbon for each
loop and end, lay flat and sew
having one on each side, like illustration 15 or several like Illustration 16. If you are having several loops on each side
graduate loops having first loop longest. However measure each
loop on each side of bow and mark
before starting.
Finish center of bow with a
small piece of folded ribbon sewn on back side of bow (Illus. 17).
Ribbon Cocarde
RIBBON COCARDE
Use any width grosgrain ribbon to make Cocarde. 1 1/2 to 2 yards of ribbon is required to make ribbon
Cocarde, depending on size desired.
MAKING RIBBON COCARDE
(Illus. 1 and
2) Turn ribbon
down on each side to make a point, then fold ribbon in
center (Illus. 3), bringing these folded sides together, sew in
lower point.
Turn ribbon back and turn
side down making a point again, (Illus. 4 and 5)
and
folding in center bringing
folded sides together (Illus. 6)
and sew in lower
point (Illus. 7).
Repeat in
this manner until you have enough folded ribbon points to make
the size Ribbon Cocarde you want (Illus. 8). Cut ribbon off and
join ends and sew together in lower corner.
Hat Pins
FRINGED FELT HAT PINS
For each hat pin cut a strip of felt 2" x 1 1/2". Slash one side of
felt strip very close together and
3/4" deep, making a fringed edge.
(Illus. 1) Wrap the other side of
felt strip around the head of a small hat pin, lap end over and sew felt flat. Also take a few stitches at bottom of fringed felt
and pull thread tight and fasten securely, forming a tassel of felt
on pin (Illus. 2).
LARGE ORNAMENTAL HAT PINS
(Illus. 3). Cut a piece of lining 2" x 2"
and fold lengthwise. Sew each side and
bottom together. Slip a hat pin through top opening, let pin protrude at bottom. Stuff
bag with cotton and sew top together. Cut
material for outside covering of hat pin
same as above, sew together, slip over hat
pin base (Illus. 4). Gather material around bottom of pin and sew securely. Bead these pins elaborately and
use for trimming.
SMALL MATCHING HAT PINS
Cut circles of lining, gather around bottom
and stuff circle with cotton (Illus. 5).
Slip hat pin head in (Illus. 6) draw,
gather together, and fasten
(Illus. 7). Cut matching hat
material as above and slip
over hat pin base, gather
around pin and fasten securely
(Illus. 8).
FELT PINS
Cut felt in small circles, squares
or oblong shapes. Sew two pieces
same shape together 1/4" from edge
of felt (Illus. 10). Stuff center with cotton (Illus. 11) and slip
hat pin head between felt pieces.
Sew securely around pin (Illus.
12).
Wedding Veils
WEDDING VEILS
Bridal Illusion is a filmy net used for
wedding veils. A formal wedding veil requires
six yards of veiling to make veil. Finished formal wedding veil is about five yards long.
An informal wedding veil requires three yards veiling and is
usually made fingertip length. Bridal Illusion is 108" wide and
requires one width in correct length to make veil.
Edges of veiling do not require a finish, however lace may
be used to finish edges if desired. Bridal Illusion is available in
white and egg shell.
TIARAS
Many beautiful Tiaras ready made may be purchased in the Millinery Supply Houses,
or you can make your own Tiaras.
Purchase a wire Tiara frame and wind the wires of frame with strips of net.
Cut a piece of net double and a few inches wider than frame measures.
Fold net double in length, measure a 1" heading and shirr net.
Pin shirring on brim wire with heading extended around edge of brim, having a piece of the net on both sides of frame.
Make a shirring in net at each wire on frame on both sides, and sew net to frame on these wires.
TO MAKE VEIL
Open veiling to full width. Fold one corner of veiling over one yard and make several rows of shirring on edge of fold. Pin
shirred veiling to back of Tiara frame and pull shirring threads to fit frame and tie. Sew veiling through shirring to Tiara on this
wire. Trim points on veiling round, at bottom and top of veil.
Bridesmaid Hats
BRIDESMAID HATS
HORSEHAIR HAT
Horsehair hats are always attractive and may be had in many beautiful shades, and are very inexpensive.
To block a horsehair body follow directions for blocking rough straw bodies.
FLOWERED BAND
(Illus. 1) Purchase a metal clip in any
Millinery supply house. Wind metal clip with
1/2" grosgrain ribbon and
tack ribbon. Separate flowers
from a bunch and pin
around top of clip and sew (Illus. 2). Pin
and sew large bunches of flowers on either
side of clip. Clip will fit head securely.
HALF HATS
Half hats are very popular for bridesmaid hats and any material can be used to make this hat. Silk or velvet to match
dress can be used to make half hat, or it can be made of flowers
or tulle.
Instructions for half hat on page 38.
OPEN OR CLOSED CROWN CALOT
Calot is also a very popular hat for bridesmaids, is a very youthful hat and can be made of almost any material and has
endless possibilities.
Calot pattern on page 121.
Fabric-Covered Buckles
FABRIC COVERED BUCKLES
Place buckle pattern on elastic net and draw around pattern on
net and cut out. (Illus. 1) Wire outer edge of
buckle foundation if a stiff buckle is desired, cover wire with a
bias crinoline strip. For a soft buckle do not wire foundation.
TO COVER BUCKLE FOUNDATION
Place pattern on a double piece of fabric, mark around pattern on fabric, allow 1/4" and cut out, on
outside edge only.
(Illus. 3) Turn fabric over edge of foundation and sew to other side of
foundation.
(Illus. 4) Slash fabric
in center openings of
buckle from side to side. Clip fabric in corners of
openings and turn fabric through to other
side of foundation and sew. Be sure
stitches do not come through to right side of buckle.
Baste fabric to other side of buckle,
turning in edges of fabric (Illus. 5) around
outer edge of buckle and
slip stitching. Slash center
openings and turn fabric
under and slip stitch
(Illus. 6).
TO MAKE A BUCKLE OF FELT
Place a buckle pattern on a piece
of felt and mark around pattern on felt and cut out two pieces
alike. Glue buckle pieces together with Milliners glue.
Patterns for Buckles
Felt Bonnet
(This Hat can be made out of Felt or
Pique. Two sets of directions and material lists follow.)
FELT BONNET MATERIALS
• 3/8 yd. of Felt, 36" wide.
• Sawtooth grograin ribbon to match, 5/8" wide, 3/4 yd.
• 1 yd. of cording for ties.
• Needle and matching thread.
PIQUE BONNET MATERIALS
• Pique, 1/2 yd.
• Muslin, 3/8 yd.
• Crinolin, 3/8 yd.
• Cording, 1 yd.
• Sawtooth headband ribbon
PATTERNS
These are given actual size. For every 1/2" decrease or increase of headsize, take off or add
1/4" on each side seam.
CUTTING DIRECTIONS FOR FELT
(1) Trace pattern�using smooth tissue paper�
place pattern, marked on fold, directly on fold of
paper and do not cut fold.
(2) Place pattern on material and cut out. Cut cording in two equal pieces.
CUTTING DIRECTIONS FOR PIQUE
(1) Lay crown pattern on pique and cut out.
(2) Lay crown pattern on crinoline and cut out.
(3) Lay crown pattern on muslin and cut out.
(4) Lay brim pattern on pique and cut out two brims of pique.
(5) Lay brim pattern on crinoline and cut out
one brim.
SEWING DIRECTIONS FOR FELT
(1) Fold each dart on back
section�match markings�baste
and stitch. Cut along fold of dart and press
open.
(2)
Place top edge of center
section to seam edge of back�right sides together.
Edges even�baste and stitch seam
and press open.
(3) Turn brim edge in 3/8 in. baste and stitch.
Steam press.
(4) Clip in
along inner brim
edge edge every 1/2 inch. With
right sides together match center
fronts of brim and crown, baste
together and stitch.
(5) Pin headband ribbon�starting in center back. Pin
ribbon around head-size�
lapping end of ribbon. Stitch
close to edge of ribbon. Dampen ribbon and turn headband to
inside of headsize.
(6) Place cording
ends to each brim point as shown in
illustration. Stitch cord securely to points�turn other end of cord in with
scissor points. Tie cords as
illustrated.
SEWING DIRECTIONS FOR PIQUE
Baste crinoline crown pieces to wrong side of pique crown pieces then baste and stitch crown
pieces together.
Press seams open.
Lay pique brim pieces right
sides together, then lay crinoline brim on and baste.
Stitch brim around outer
edge. Turn brim to right side, open corners and
insert cords, baste and stitch brim around outer
edge 1/8" from edge. Press.
Join crown to brim and stitch.
Stitch crown lining together and slip into crown. Sew lining around headsize and sew in headband
ribbon.
For blocking when complete, one method is to sew two shoulder pads together to form a simple hat blocking pad. See Fig. 8.
Pattern for Bonnet
Cleaning and Remodeling Methods
CLEANING AND REMODELING FELTS
Light colored felts can be washed. Use white soap flakes
and lukewarm water. Rinse felts in lukewarm water, and reblock
while wet. Remove ribbon crown bands, headsize ribbons and wire around brims before washing felts. Separate crowns and
brims before reblocking felts. If felts have been stitched on
machine around crown or brims, cut crowns from brims on
machine stitching. Many felts will tear on perforations made by
machine stitching when being reblocked. Reblock old felts using the same methods as are used to block new felts. When felt is
dry apply a thin coat of felt sizing and let felt remain on block
until sizing is dry. Rewire brim edge, sew crown and brim
together and finish headsize with a swirled ribbon headband.
Dark colored fur felts can be washed also, usually a tissue
paper pad and cleaning fluid rubbed over felt is all that is
required.
The felt can then be wrapped in a damp cloth for several
hours before re-blocking.
Remove ribbon bands and wires before cleaning and
proceed the same as for felt that has been washed.
To freshen felts, place hat on block and brush felt while holding over steam. Let hat dry on block.
To remove spots from light colored felts, rub No. 0000 sandpaper over spot on felt lightly, being careful not to rub too
hard.
CLEANING HAT TRIMMINGS
To clean ostrich feathers, dip feather in naphtha or cleaning fluid, then hold feather over steam to fluff flues. To re-curl
ostrich feathers use the back of scissors or some dull instrument,
carefully pulling instrument over each flue, just as you would
curl the ends of ribbon on a gift package. Do this gently as
feather flues break very easily.
To clean wings and other fancy feathers, wipe them off with
a cloth dipped in cleaning fluid. Glue any loose feathers. Flowers
ran be steamed after wiping off with cleaning fluid and re-gluing any loose petals.
Veils should be smoothed, pressed and coated with fabric
sizing or pressed between sheets of waxed paper, then rolled on a paper roll when not in use.
Over Shoulder Bag
OVER SHOULDER BAG
Trace and Cut Bag Pattern:
Place all pieces of
bag pattern on foundation felt and
material. Cut out. Cut #2
piece double, both felt
and material. Mark and notch each piece as pattern is marked.
Baste material and felt together. Cut #2 piece out of elastic net
and cut in half lengthwise. Also cut a piece of elastic net 9" x 2"
for bottom of bag. Match markings and stitch side seams on #1
piece together. Match markings and stitch #2 pieces. Turn to right side, press and slip a piece of elastic net in each cuff and
baste each cuff to top of bag. Stitch #3 piece flat, press and
baste to each side of bag at top and stitch. Make a facing to fit
top of bag 3" wide. On the right side of this facing stitch a piece
of material 9 1/2" x 1 1/4" on each side, making a groove for Fa-cile Spring Fastener, Style K'B, 11" long. Baste and stitch facing
around top of bag. Turn over and baste to inside of bag. Slip
elastic net in bottom of bag and sew to felt. Slip lining in bag and
hem to facing. Slip spring fastener in bag.
Facile Fastener's special patented handbag closure simplifies the construction of handbags at home or in school projects. The hinged corners of the fasteners come apart for insertion in sleeves sewn into purse and are easily assembled to form a solid and substantial closure that will last indefinitely.
End of book.