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1952How to Make Hats by Ruby Carnahan Table of Contents 5Equipment Needed 6, 7Description of Basic Materials 8, 9, 10Fundamental Stitches 11Steaming and Pressing 12Cutting and Joining a Bias 13How to Take Head Measurements 14Patterns for Headsize

How to Make Hats

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1952—How to Make Hatsby Ruby CarnahanTable of Contents5—Equipment Needed 6, 7—Description of Basic Materials 8, 9, 10—Fundamental Stitches 11—Steaming and Pressing 12—Cutting and Joining a Bias 13—How to Take Head Measurements 14—Patterns for Headsize15, 16—How to Cut Patterns 17—Making Patterns for Ready Made Frames 18, 19—Making Wire Frames 20—Fabrics Used to Cover Frames and Foundation 21, 22—Blocking Material for Covering Frames 23—Blocking a Round or a Square Crown of Elastic Net 24—

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Page 1: How to Make Hats

1952�How to Make Hats

by Ruby Carnahan

Table of Contents

5�Equipment Needed

6, 7�Description of Basic Materials

8, 9, 10�Fundamental Stitches

11�Steaming and Pressing

12�Cutting and Joining a Bias

13�How to Take Head Measurements

14�Patterns for Headsize

Page 2: How to Make Hats

15, 16�How to Cut Patterns

17�Making Patterns for Ready Made Frames

18, 19�Making Wire Frames

20�Fabrics Used to Cover Frames and Foundation

21, 22�Blocking Material for Covering Frames

23�Blocking a Round or a Square Crown of Elastic Net

24�Gluing Material to Frames

25�Covering a Wire Frame

26�Sailor Pattern and its Many Variations

27�Making a Basic Sailor Frame

28, 29�Covering a Basic Sailor Frame

30�Bias Covered Basic Sailor

31�Making a Pattern of a Rolled Brim Breton Sailor

32, 33�Covering a Breton Sailor

34�Pattern for a Basic Sailor

35�Making a Pill Box Frame

36�How to Cover a Pill Box Frame

37�Pattern for Pill Box

38�Half Hat

39�Hat Anchorage

40�Non-Headsize Hat

41�Fabric Hat with Three Piece Sectional Crown and Draped

Brim. Pattern

42�Fabric Hat and Pattern

43�Fabric Bag

44�Pattern for Fabric Bag

45, 46�Hat Linings and Headbands

Page 3: How to Make Hats

47�Materials Used to Make Straw Hats

48, 49�Using a Buckram Frame as a Block for a Straw Braid Hat

50�Making a Straw Braid Hat in One Piece

51, 52�Making Straw Braid Crowns and Brims on Wood Hat

Blocks

53�Making Straw Braid Pill Box on a Block

54, 55, 56�Hat Made of 5" Straw Banding

57�Blocking Rough Straw Bodies

58�Blocking a Leghorn Straw Body

59�Blocking Straw Bodies of Baku Sisal Shantung

60�Cleaning and Remodeling Straw and Fabric Hats

61, 62�Materials Used to Make Felt Hats

63�How to Block a Felt Body on a One Piece Block

64, 65�Blocking Felt Crown and Brim on Separate Blocks

66, 67�Blocking a Fur Felt Body Using Combination of a

Blocked Crown and Brim Cut from a Pattern

68, 69�Blocking a Felt Hood into a Tapered Brim

70�Crescent Felt Hat

71�Pattern for Crescent Felt Hat

72�Fringed Felt Casual Hat

73�Pattern for Fringed Felt Casual Hat

74�Fringed Felt Bag

75�Pattern for Fringed Felt Bag

76, 77�Felt Pattern Hat a Three Piece Crown and Felt Brim

78, 79�Pattern for Felt Hat Three Piece Crown

80�Felt Pattern Hat

Page 4: How to Make Hats

81�Pattern for Felt Hat

82�Berets

83, 84�Beaded Velvet Beret

85, 86�Pattern for Beaded Beret

87�Beaded Velvet Bag to Match Beret

88�Pattern for Beaded Velvet Bag

89, 90�Wool Felt Beret

91�Pattern for Small Beret

92, 93�Stitched Beret and Matching Bag

94�Stitched Bag to Match Beret

95, 96�Beret Made of Wool Material

97�Child's Beret of Felt

98�Pattern for Child's Beret

99�Sectional Beret

100, 101, 102�Pattern for Sectional Beret

103, 104�Stitched Casual Hat and Bag

105�Stitched Casual Hat

106�Pattern for Stitched Casual Hat

107, 108, 109, 110�Stitched Bag to Match Casual Hat

111, 112�Pattern for Stitched Bag

113, 114�Casual Ribbon Hat

115�Pattern for Ribbon Hat

116�Ribbon Bag

117�Pattern for Ribbon Bag

118�Flowered Hat

119, 120�Helmet

121�Calot (open or closed crown)

Page 5: How to Make Hats

122, 151�Pattern for Calot

123�Scalloped Calot

124�Pattern for Scalloped Calot

125, 126�Turbans

127, 128�Fur Hats

129�Pattern for Fur Brim

130�Maline Pom Pom

131�Pattern for Maline Pom Pom

132�Hat Trimmings and their Application

133, 134�How to Apply Trimmings

135�Self Trimmings

136�Patterns for Trimmings

137�Ribbon Ornaments

138, 139�Ribbon Bows

140�Ribbon Cocarde

141�Hat Pins

142�Wedding Veils

143�Bridesmaid Hats

144�Fabric Covered Buckles

145�Patterns for Buckles

146, 147�Pique or Felt Bonnet

148, 149�Pattern for Bonnet

150�Cleaning and Remodeling Methods

152, 153�Pattern for Hand Bag

Page 6: How to Make Hats

Equipment Needed

STEAMER

Steam is required for

every type of hat made. An electric steamer made especially for

Millinery is very desirable, however a teakettle with a steam spout

does very well (Illus. I).

IRON

A plain iron may be used with a damp cloth to steam press. A steam iron is used extensively

by many for steam pressing (Illus. 2). Steam

irons become coated with lime, often making

them almost useless, unless they are cleaned by putting 1/4 cup of

vinegar and 1/2 cup of water in iron and letting it steam through iron. Then pour out and put in a cup of vinegar and let iron stand for

a while to remove all the lime deposit. Pour off and fill your iron with

distilled water, ready for use.

UTILITY HEAD BLOCK

Utility head block No. 796 (Illus. 3) in your headsize is necessary for steaming and blocking

crowns. If you intend to make hats for others, it

will be necessary to have the headblocks in sizes

and half sizes from 21 to 23 inclusive.

UTILITY BRIM BLOCK

The most practical brim block to have is Utility Brim Block No. 1514x (Illus. 4) in the 6"

brim. This block may be had

in a 4" brim also. One side of

the brim block is flat for blocking flat brims, the other side of block is

curved for blocking Bretons or for a mushroom brim. Head band

block on this brim block is movable (Illus. 5), making it possible for

Page 7: How to Make Hats

the headsize to be changed to any size, by applying correct headsize

band block on brim. Order brim block in your correct headsize.

HEADBAND BLOCKS

Headband blocks may be had in all headsizes.

MAKING YOUR OWN BLOCK

Use a ready-made frame, or a frame you have made, reinforced with frame wire around brim edge and headsize, also

reinforce the brim front, back and sides with wire braces. Have all

wiring on under side of blocking side. When frame has been satisfactorily reinforced with wire, paint frame with a preparation

called U-Block-lt and let frame dry. Then proceed to block over

frame just as you would block over a wooden block, using push pins,

etc. Frames prepared in this manner cannot be used near heat or a flame (this warning is printed on the can of U-Block-lt). Dip the felt

in hot water and roll in a towel to wring dry, then place the felt over

the block and stretch and smooth felt, pinning as you stretch. Allow

felt to dry on block. You will find this method of using hot water on

felt will be just as satisfactory as if felt were wrapped in a damp towel for several hours and then steamed and stretched on block.

Description of Basic Material Used in Millinery

ELASTIC NET (ILLUS. 1)

A coarse mesh material.

Used for making frames cut from patterns, or can be steamed and blocked into a frame.

Sold by the yard in black or white.

BUCKRAM (ILLUS. 2)

A very stiff material also used for frame making, and for foundation for trimmings, such as buckles and various other fabric-covered ornaments.

Sold by the yard in black or white.

Page 8: How to Make Hats

WILLOW (ILLUS. 3)

A material much like buckram, a little finer grade than buckram and used to better advantage for molding on blocks or on wire frames when copying a hat.

Sold by the sheet in cream color.

HONEY COMB (ILLUS. 4)

A cotton (coarse) mesh material, slightly sized, used for turban or crown foundations, or where some stiffness is required.

Sold by the yard in black, white and some colors.

CRINOLINE (ILLUS. 5)

A light weight fine mesh material, often used with honey comb when making turban foundations. Use a layer of honey comb and then a layer of crinoline.

Sold by the yard in black and white.

SIZED CHIFFON (ILLUS. 6)

A sheer stiff material also used like crinoline or horiey comb. This material also can be steamed and molded for turban foundations. Often used for hat linings.

Sold by the yard in black, white and some colors.

HEADSIZE RIBBONS (ILLUS. 7)

Saw-tooth grosgrain ribbon No. 5 is used for head bands. This ribbon will keep its shape when it has been swirled or blocked before sewing in hat headsize.

Black, grey or brown are standard colors for winter hats, white or blue for summer hats. Recently, bright contrasting colored headbands in hats have been very popular, for both summer and winter hats.

PAPER COVERED WIRE

Page 9: How to Make Hats

Available in several weights. Heavy weight wire is used for wiring buckram frames. Light weight wire is used for wiring facings, etc. Sold in rolls in black and white.

SILK COVERED WIRE

Available in several weights. Heavy weight wire is used for making wire frames and for wiring straw hat brims. Where wire will be visible, silk covered wire can be dyed to match the color of any material. Light weight silk wire is used for wiring lace bows, etc. Sold in some colors and black and white.

STEEL WIRE

Used for sailor brims or any brim which is to be perfectly flat; steel wire will not bend.

RIBBON WIRE

Used to wire ribbon for bows. Sold in black and white.

TIE WIRE

Used for tying cross wires when making a wire frame. Also used for branching flowers and tying loops of ribbon bows together. Sold in green, white and black.

WIRE JOINERS

Used to join ends of wire. A small hollow metal tube, about one-half inch long.

STRAW SIZING AND FELT SIZING

Sizing is used as a stiffener for straw and felt hats. However there are two kinds of sizing, straw sizing is used for straw, and felt sizing is used for felts. Hats steamed and blocked of straw or of felt, must be thoroughly dry before sizing is applied. If more stiffness is desired, a second coat of sizing may be applied after first coat of sizing is dry.

There is an all purpose sizing on the market which may be used for either straw or felt.

OTHER EQUIPMENT • SANDPAPER FOR CLEANING FELTS

• HEAVY PAPER FOR PATTERNS

• TISSUE PAPER FOR PATTERNS

Page 10: How to Make Hats

• SMALL PAINT BRUSH FOR APPLYING SIZING

• SOFT BRUSH

• WHISK BROOM

• WIRE JOINERS

• MILLINERY GLUE

• FELT SIZING

• STRAW SIZING

• BLACK AND WHITE PAPER-COVERED WIRE

• BLACK AND WHITE SILK-COVERED WIRE

• STEEL WIRE

• BLACK AND WHITE RIBBON WIRE

• TIE WIRE

• SMALL PADDED BOARD FOR PRESSING

• PRESSING PADS AND CLOTHS

• ASSORTED MILLINERY NEEDLES, NO. 3 - NO. 9

• TAPE MEASURE

• THIMBLE

• PENCIL

• TAILOR'S CHALK

• PINS

• RULER

• SCISSORS

• MILLINERY THREAD NO. 24 IN BLACK AND WHITE

• HEAVY DUTY THREAD NO. 40 IN COLORS

• CORD FOR TYING MATERIALS ON BLOCKS

• PUSH PINS FOR PINNING MATERIALS ON BLOCKS

• NIPPERS FOR CUTTING WIRE.

HAT LABELS

Individual names on tapes to sew in the headband in crown of hats, may be purchased from any of the

Page 11: How to Make Hats

Millinery Supply Houses. They are made to order, and require several weeks for delivery. Sold by the hundred and cost is nominal.

Fundamental Stitches Used in Millinery

PRACTICE STITCHES

Neat even stitches and faultless workmanship is required to make a professional looking hat. Every stitch must be practiced

until perfection is achieved. It is necessary to know where and

when to use the different stitches when making a hat which can

only be learned by continuous practice and application.

PICK STITCH

Pick stitch is a tiny even stitch about 1/16" apart. Used on some brim edges and around crowns.

FURRING STITCH

Used to join felt or fur edges together. Hold two edges of felt together and sew over and over. When seam is finished it will be flat and almost invisible.

TIE STITCH

Used to fasten trimmings and veilings on hat. Slip needle through material at No. 1 and bring needle back through at No. 2, tie ends and clip thread close to where you have thread tied.

BASTING STITCH

Take one small stitch and then a long stitch for basting. When removing the basting stitches clip

Page 12: How to Make Hats

the thread in a long stitch in several places and pull threads out, instead of trying to pull entire basting thread out.

SLIP STITCHING

Slip stitching is used where invisible sewing is desired on facings and folds, etc. Begin slip stitch by taking a tiny stitch through material and then a long stitch through turned edge of fold.

RUNNING STITCH

This is the simplest stitch used in sewing, and is used where a strong stitch is unnecessary, for example, gathering shirring and tucking. To make stitches, pass the needle through material, taking several small stitches at a time, before drawing needle through material.

SHIRRING

Use running stitches making them the same length on both sides. Continue making stitches until you have finished the row, then draw material together to form even gathering.

OVERCASTING STITCH

Used to sew down edges of material and to apply wire in some places. Sew with close straight stitches, bringing the needle over and over toward you. Do not take stitches too deep or draw thread too tight.

BUTTON HOLE STITCH

Used to sew wire on frames, etc. Take several over casting stitches then bring needle down to right depth from wrong side having thread behind the eye and under the point of the needle.

CROSS STITCH

Page 13: How to Make Hats

Used to hold down raw edges of material and to sew in name labels. Work from left to right crossing threads at each stitch.

BACK STITCH

Used to sew two pieces of material together where strength is required. The needle is inserted at the end of the last stitch and brought out the length of a stitch farther on.

Steaming and Pressing

PRESSING SEAMS, DARTS, ETC. (ILLUS. 1)

Use a pressing cloth over seams,

dampen seam with a sponge, press lightly, lifting cloth up quickly to allow steam to

escape.

STEAMING VELVET OR OTHER PILE FABRIC WITH A STEAM IRON (ILLUS. 2)

Hold steaming iron just above material, on the wrong side, allowing only steam to

touch material. Never let iron touch

material.

STEAMING VELVET OR OTHER PILE FABRIC WITH A PLAIN IRON (ILLUS. 3)

Stand a hot iron on end and

cover iron with a damp cloth. Pass

wrong side of velvet over steaming cloth on iron. Do not hold velvet too tightly as finger marks will

show.

Page 14: How to Make Hats

STEAMING STRAW BRAID ON FRAME (ILLUS. 4)

Baste straw braid to frame and gently pass frame through steam for a

few seconds. Keep turning frame while

steaming. Be careful not to use too

much steam when steaming on a frame. Too much steam will cause frame

to collapse.

STEAMING STRAW BRAID ON A BLOCK (ILLUS. 5)

Pin straw braid on block, press braid gently with a steam iron. Let straw braid

dry on block. Some braids must be

pressed under a pressing cloth.

STEAMING AND PRESSING FELTS

Steam felt crowns over a teakettle when blocking. Use a steam iron, or a damp cloth and

iron, to steam, stretch and flatten a felt brim. Place felt brim on

pressing board and cover with a damp cloth, press with a hot

iron lifting cloth and iron when felt becomes soft and pliable enough to stretch with your fingers. Continue in this manner

until felt is stretched sufficiently. (Illus. 6)

Cutting and Joining a Bias

CUTTING A BIAS (ILLUS. 1)

Page 15: How to Make Hats

For a true bias, fold material so that the crosswise thread

meets the lengthwise thread, or selvedge of material. Fold and

cut the material as shown in illustration.

A BIAS JOINING (ILLUS. 2)

Join bias by sewing seam as shown in illustration, cut off small pointed ends at

seam edge. Steam seam

open.

CUTTING A BIAS FOLD (ILLUS. 3)

When finishing edge of hat brim with a

bias fold, cut fold length to fit around edge of brim, with only one joining. Join ends

of bias fold on the bias. Cut fold 1/2"

wider than the desired width for finished

fold. (Stretching a bias in length reduces its width).

How to Take Head Measurements

MEASURING AROUND HEAD (ILLUS. 1)

Hats that fit the head are called headsize hats. Exact headsize measurements

are required when making headsize hats.

Start with tape line at center of forehead on hair line. Run tape line around head, under

bulge at back of head and back to front to

meet tape line again. This measurement is

Page 16: How to Make Hats

your correct head-size. Average headsize measurements range

from 21" to 23" in half sizes.

MEASURING HEAD FROM BACK TO FRONT (ILLUS. 2)

Decide where you will wear hat, back or

forward on head. Mark and start tape line on mark, run tape line over top of head and just

over bulge on back of head. This is the back

to front measurement and usually measures

9 1/2" to I0 1/2".

MEASURING HEAD FROM SIDE TO SIDE (ILLUS. 3)

Start tape line where edge of headsize

will start over ears and run tape line over

head to same point on opposite side over ear. This is the side to side measurement

and usually measures 10" to 10 1/2".

NON-HEADSIZE HAT MEASUREMENTS

Non-headsize hats fit any size head.

Head sizes measure from 18" to 21" dependent on style trend.

A season when non-headsize hats are very fashionable, they become very extreme, are perched high

on the head with a 12" headsize. The smaller the hat the smaller

the headsize on non-headsize hats.

Headsize Pattern

Page 17: How to Make Hats

Trace each headsize pattern and make individual patterns

of heavy cardboard. Always use your correct headsize pattern.

Bottom of utility block can be usedf to block headsize.

Remember�bottom of head block is 1" smaller than top.

How to Cut Patterns

SAILOR BRIM PATTERN

Take a square of paper the diameter of the hat from back to

front. (Illus. 1) Fold paper in half and fold again in quarters, (Illus. 2) forming a square one fourth size of original square.

Fold square of paper diagonally (Illus. 3) fold after fold, (Illus. 4)

until the shortest length appears on top (Illus. 5). Cut off ends

as marked (Illus. 6), then open paper and it will be a circle of

paper (Illus. 7); use this circle for the brim pattern.

SAILOR WITH AN EVEN BRIM

Page 18: How to Make Hats

Trace your exact headsize pattern on page 14

and cut out of paste board. Place this

headsize pattern in center of brim pattern and draw a line

around headsize on brim pattern, cut out headsize on this line. Measure width of brim desired, from head-size to brim edge and

draw a line around brim. Cut off excess on this line. Mark back

and front on pattern.

SHORT BACKED SAILOR

Start with a circle paper pattern, mark

exact width brim is to be in back from edge of brim to headsize. Place your correct

headsize pattern on this line, extending

headsize pattern toward the front

(Illus. 9) Measure each side of brim from edge of headsize pattern to edge of

brim. Be sure the headsize pattern is in the

center of the brim pattern. Mark around headsize pattern on brim pattern and cut out

headsize on this line. Mark back and front of brim on pattern.

SAILOR CROWN

Use your correct headsize pattern for top of crown pattern.

The side crown is a bias piece the length of headsize measurement, with a 2" allowance for lapping ends. Width of

bias side crown piece is determined by height crown is to be.

NON-HEADSIZE SAILOR

Start with sailor brim pattern and use your correct headsize

Utility Block No. 796 to mark headsize on pattern. Place bottom

Page 19: How to Make Hats

of block in center of pattern for an even brim or back for a short

back and draw a line around bottom of block on pattern, just as

you did when using headsize pattern. The bottom of Utility Block is 1" smaller than your headsize and is oval in shape. Size of

headsize can be reduced from there if desired.

Making Patterns for Ready Made Frames

BRIM PATTERNS

Cut a circle of paper larger than frame and pin to under side of frame, easing paper in to fit frame, pinning in darts or adding

gores where needed. Draw a line around brim edge and head-

size on paper pattern. Mark back and front of pattern. Remove

pattern, cut off excess if darts have been pinned in or mark

where gores are needed and pin in extra pieces. Cut off excess paper on line around edge of brim and around headsize. When

cutting material from pattern allow 1/2" on material. Mark back

and front on pattern.

CROWN PATTERNS

Cut a circle of paper larger than top of crown and pin to crown, back, front and sides. Draw a line on paper around edge

of crown, remove paper from crown and cut on line. Side crown

is a bias piece. Allow 1/2" when cutting material.

ROUND CROWN PATTERN

When covering a buckram frame that has a round crown with a fabric such as velvet, satin, wool or pique, cut a paper

pattern to fit crown.

TO CUT PATTERN

Pin a strip of paper 3" wide to center of buckram crown

from headsize in back to headsize in front. Pin a piece of paper

Page 20: How to Make Hats

on side of crown to fit side crown and pin to center strip of

paper. Trim off all excess paper. Mark back and front of pattern

Use this pattern to cut material for covering round crown.

BLOCKING MATERIAL FOR ROUND CROWN

When using a material that stretches to cover a round

crown, a pattern is not needed, as material is stretched, steamed and blocked on utility head block, allowed to dry and

then removed from block and placed on buckram crown.

Instructions on Page 21.

MAKING A BERET PATTERN (ILLUS. 1 AND 2)

A Beret is two brims

put together and a

headsize cut in the facing brim. When you learn to

use this simple method,

you can make a pattern of any type Beret, also using your own

individuality in styling Beret. Brim can be square, round,

scalloped, darts taken in brim, etc. Any of these suggestions will change the style of the Beret.

Cut two circles of paper a little larger than Beret is to be. Place your correct headsize pattern in center or toward the back

(depending on whether Beret is to have an even brim or a short

back brim), draw a line around headsize pattern on paper

pattern facing. If darts have been taken on pattern, mark on

pattern. Pin pattern together in back and slip facing pattern on Utility block. Pin top paper circle to facing around brim edge. Try

pattern and make any necessary adjustments. Cut off all excess

paper on brim edge or on darts if any. Be sure brims fit exactly,

when pattern is unpinned. Mark back and front of pattern on top

and facing of pattern.

Page 21: How to Make Hats

Making Wire Frames

PRACTICE WITH WIRE AND NIPPERS

Wire frames have many uses and can be

purchased in the Millinery Supply House. However it is wise to know how to make a wire frame as

sometimes it is impossible to find the style of

frame wanted. You will find this knowledge

valuable when making alterations that require wire

changes. Much practice is needed in the use of nippers and wire before you really make a frame.

(Illus. 1) Practice until you can turn one wire over

another securely and silk on wire is not damaged and no point is

felt where wire is cut off. Frame wires must be immovable when

frame is finished. Also practice using tie wire. There are two ways to make a wire frame, by measurement or over a buckram

frame for guide. When making a wire frame over a buckram

frame, start at headsize, fitting wires to exactly fit frame, turning

and tying wires as above. When round brim wire is on and

support wires have been turned over, remove wire frame from buckram frame.

SUPPORT BRIM WIRES

(Illus. 2) Support wires on brim include

center wire from back to front, support wires

from side to side, and diagonal support wires left side and diagonal support wires right

side.

ROUND BRIM WIRES

Round wires on brim include circumference edge wire,

head-size wire and several divisional wires depending on size of frame.

Page 22: How to Make Hats

MAKING FRAME FROM MEASUREMENTS

(Illus. 3) For brim cut out two headsize

wires to fit head (Illus.

3a), lap ends of wire and tie with tie wire.

Cut eight support wires. Start in center of headsize wire (Illus. 3b) turn front support wire over headsize wire, pinch securely

with nippers.

Place second headsize wire 1" below first headsize wire and turn front support wire over this headsize wire and pinch

together with nippers (Illus. 3c). Then add back support wire and

side support wires in the same way (Illus. 3d). Between these

support wires add diagonal support wires in the same way (Illus. 3e).

ROUND BRIM WIRES

Cut round wires, place over suppprt wires an even distance apart, and tie wire each place where divisional wire crosses

round wire. Turn support wires over brim wire. Pinch with

nippers until

secure.

ROUND CROWN AND SQUARE CROWN

(Illus. 4) Cut four support wires correct length, tie together in center securely (Illus. 4a) with tie wire and spread support

wires. Cut three round wires and place each one over the spread

support wires an even distance apart and tie with tie wire at

each place support wire crosses round wire (Illus. 4b). Measure wire for bottom crown correct size and turn support wires over

round wire and pinch with nippers until secure (Illus. 4c). Square

Page 23: How to Make Hats

crown is made the same as round crown, only support wires are

bent at crown edge and round wire is tied at bend.

FABRICS USED TO COVER FRAMES AND FOUNDATIONS

• VELVET

• MOIRE

• SATIN

• CREPE

• JERSEY

• STRAW CLOTH

• BROCADE

• TWEED

• LAME

• WOOLEN MATERIALS

• TAFFETA

• COTTON MATERIALS

ALL OF THE ABOVE MATERIALS AND MANY MORE ARE

USED TO COVER FRAMES AND FOUNDATIONS.

VELVET HAS A NAP. ALWAYS CUT EACH PIECE OF

VELVET WITH THE NAP RUNNING IN THE SAME DIRECTION.

SATIN AND MANY OTHER MATERIALS THAT HAVE A

SHEEN SHOULD BE CUT WITH EACH PIECE RUNNING THE SAME WAY, TO PREVENT MATERIAL COLORS FROM

APPEARING DIFFERENT.

Page 24: How to Make Hats

INSTRUCTIONS FOR COVERING FRAMES AND

FOUNDATIONS ARE GIVEN ON FOLLOWING PAGES.

Blocking Material for Covering Frames

BLOCKING MATERIAL FOR COVERING FRAMES

This requires material which can be stretched. Often an entire hat�crown, brim and facing�can be covered with one

piece of blocked material. If a large frame is to be covered,

crown and top brim may be covered with one piece of material and a bias facing used to cover under side of brim. This method

of covering a frame does not require a pattern. Only used with

stretchable material.

MATERIAL REQUIRED

• Utility block No. 796 in correct headsize

• 1/2 yard of material

• Straw cloth, jersey or any other stretchable material

BLOCKING

(Illus. 1) Place 1/2 yard of material on block with a corner of

material in front. Pin material down to

block in front, back and on each side.

Steam over a teakettle, pulling and pinning material to extreme bottom of

block until material is free from

wrinkles and fits smoothly around bottom of block. Use

ordinary straight pins to pin material to block (push pins

may leave holes in material stretched to the extent that this method requires). Wear a thimble to push straight

pins into block. After pin is pushed through material into

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block, bend pin down flat. Let dry and mark front on

material before removing material from block.

FITTING MATERIAL TO FRAME

(Illus. 2) Place blocked material on crown of frame,

pinning the front of material to the front of frame. Smooth material and pin all around bottom of crown, then sew

material to bottom of crown with tiny pick stitches, very

close together. Pull material out over brim and pin

material to brim edge (Illus. 3). Sew around brim edge

with tiny close-together pick stitches. If frame is small enough to be covered in one piece, pull material in to

headsize on under side of frame and sew around inside of

crown (Illus. 4). Cut off excess material around headsize.

USING A SEPARATE BRIM FACING

Steam and block material as

directed and use for crown and top of brim. After sewing

blocked material around bottom of crown and over edge of

brim, cut off excess material around brim just outside of sewing (Illus. 5). Cut a bias piece of material 2" wider

than brim facing measures. (Illus. 6) Pin this bias piece of

material around edge of brim, stretching material to fit

smooth and tight. Pin ends together, making a bias seam.

Remove bias piece from brim, stitch and press seam open and replace on brim with seam In back. Again pin facing

around edge of brim.

Page 26: How to Make Hats

WIRING BRIM EDGE

(Illus. 7) Fit a wire around edge

of brim and join with a wire joiner.

Remove a few pins at a time from facing on brim edge, turn material

over wire and repin to brim edge.

Continue until facing has been turned over wire and

pinned all around edge of brim. Sew facing to brim under

wire using a back stitch. Pull facing in at headsize and sew to frame around headsize. Cut off any excess material and

finish headsize with a lining and headband.

Instructions for linings and headbands on page 45.

Blocking a Round or a Square Crown of Elastic Net

BLOCKING SQUARE CROWN

Use the small end of Utility Head Block. Fit a heavy piece of cardboard over small end of block, and fasten cardboard to block

with Scotch tape. Wet felt, and block.

BLOCKING ROUND CROWN

Use the large end of Utility Head Block. Use same method for blocking both crowns.

CUTTING CROWN (ILLUS. 1)

Cut a square of elastic net 14" x 15"

and dampen thoroughly. Place on crown block, pin to block, front, back and sides.

Have a point of net on either side of front and back.

Page 27: How to Make Hats

STEAMING CROWN (ILLUS. 2)

Hold block over steam and pull each

corner of elastic down and pin to bottom of

block. Tie a blocking cord tight around block. Mark back and front of crown and let dry on

block.

TRIMMING OFF BOTTOM OF CROWN (ILLUS. 3)

Measure and mark depth of crown on net. Slip a corset stay or a nail file under

edge of net to loosen crown from block, and

remove crown. Cut off excess net around bottom of crown on mark.

WIRING CROWN (ILLUS. 4)

Measure a wire to fit bottom of crown

and join ends of wire with a wire joiner. Sew

wire around bottom of crown, using a button hole stitch. Cut a 2" bias strip of crinoline

(stretch bias strip of crinoline before using),

fold over wired edge of crown and baste crinoline to net.

Gluing Material to Frames

GLUING MATERIAL TO FRAMES

Use Milliner's Glue when gluing materials. Milliner's Glue can be purchased at any Millinery Supply House. Apply glue with

a small paint brush: some brands of glue have a brush in glue

container.

HOW TO GLUE MATERIAL TO FRAME

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Cover surface of frame where material is

to be applied with glue

and allow to stand about

five minutes. Then apply

another coat of glue to frame and firmly smooth material over glued surface, pressing

and smoothing a small area at a time (Illus. 2). Be sure material

has adhered to frame on each space glued, before going on to

the next space. When all material has been glued to frame, allow

to dry thoroughly.

GLUING MATERIALS TOGETHER

When gluing any kind of fabrics together, put the glue on both pieces of fabric and press glued sides together.

TESTING MATERIALS TO BE GLUED

It is wise to first test materials to be glued. Cut a small piece of elastic net and apply glue, then cut a small piece of

material to be glued and smooth material over glued elastic net.

Let dry. If material will not take glue, spots will appear on

sample when dry.

Covering a Wire Frame

METHOD FOR COVERING PLAIN WIRE FRAME

(Illus. 1) If a sheer material is used to cover a wire frame, the wire frame can be

dyed the same color as the material with Rit

Dye. This will eliminate winding the frame

wire. With the exception of the wire on brim edge, the wire is

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wound. Use the same method as used for covering buckram

frames, cutting brim covering from a pattern, pinning top brim

fabric to brim, and sewing to brim wire, then pin facing to under side of brim around edge and at headsize. Finish brim edge with

a bias fold or with wired velvet tubing.

BIAS FOLD

Cut a 2'" bias strip of material, (either velvet or matching

material). Fold bias strip double and place over wire on brim edge, stretch bias piece and pin all around brirn, join ends of

bias strip and make a bias seam. Remove, stitch,and press seam

open. Return to brim again pinning fold all around edge of brim.

Turn raw edges of fold under 1/4" on each side and slip stitch.

VELVET TUBING

Measure two wires to fit edge of brim, run each wire through a piece of velvet tubing and stretch velvet tubing on

wire. Join wire with a wire joiner, turn one edge under and lap

stretched velvet tubing ends and sew together neatly. Pin tubing

around brim edge and slip stitch. Place tubing on top edge of brim and one on facing of brim.

METHOD OF WINDING WIRE FRAME

Cut 1" strips of veiling or maline the same color as material used for hat. Start in back and wind each wire as illustrated.

COVERING WIRE FRAME ON THE BIAS

Run a tape line from top at headsize to brim edge and continue over edge of brim to headsize on facing. Add 2" to this

measurement and cut a bias piece of material width of this

measurement. Fold bias piece double and place over wire on

edge of brim. Stretch and pin around edge of brim and join ends

together with a bias seam. Remove from brim and sew together. Press seam open. Put back over wire brim, steam and stretch

top and bottom into headsize until free from wrinkles. Pin and

sew top and bottom separately around headsize.

Page 30: How to Make Hats

Sailor Pattern and its Many Variations

The preceding pages teach you how to cut sailor patterns. The following hats all start with the Sailor pattern.

CLOCHE (ILLUS. 1)

Use sailor pattern cut open in back, lapping one side of brim over the other until

desired scoop is attained. Allow 2" for

lapping. Measure desired brim width and cut off excess material around brim edge.

MUSHROOM (ILLUS. 2)

Mushroom is a sailor slashed at even

intervals and small gores added around edge

of brim and rolled down to form a scooped brim edge.

BRETON SAILOR (ILLUS. 2)

A Breton Sailor brim is made the same as a mushroom brim

only the brim is turned up.

TRICORN (ILLUS. 3)

A Tricorn is a sailor turned up on three sides.

BICORN (ILLUS. 4)

A Bicorn is a sailor turned up across

the front.

PROFILE HAT (ILLUS. 5)

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A Profile hat is a sailor turned up on the

side.

PILL BOX (ILLUS. 6)

A Pill Box is a sailor crown.

BERET (ILLUS. 7)

A Beret is two sailor brims sewn together around edge of brim and a headsize

cut in the facing brim.

Making a Basic Sailor Frame

MATERIAL REQUIRED

• 1/2 yard of elastic net

• frame wire

• wire joiners

• heavy thread No. 24

DESCRIPTION

Make a sailor frame pattern following instructions on page 15. Or use the sailor frame pattern in book on page

34. Always remember to use your correct headsize when

making a pattern.

SAILOR BRIM

Place pattern on elastic net and

mark around

pattern brim and headsize (Illus. 1.

Cut out brim edge on line drawn, do

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not cut out headsize. (Illus. 2) Slash inside headsize line

from back to front, and from side to side and then slash

every 1/2" around headsize. Bend elastic net segments back 1" to line around headsize and cut off excess. Mark

back and front of brim.

SAILOR CROWN

Place crown tip pattern on elastic net, mark around

pattern and cut out crown tip on line. Cut a bias piece of elastic net for side crown. The width of bias piece will

depend on height of crown, usually 2" to 2 3/4". Mark

back and front of crown.

WIRING SAILOR FRAME

(Illus. 3) Cut a wire to fit sailor

brim and join ends of wire with a wire joiner. Sew wire on edge of brim frame using a button

hole stitch. Cut two pieces of wire to fit crown tip and join

ends of wire with a wire joiner. Sew one wire on edge of

crown tip (Illus. 4). Hold one edge of bias elastic net, bias

side crown, to wired crown tip. (Illus. 5) Overcast side crown to crown tip, lapping ends of side crown in back and

sew. Sew wire around bottom of side crown using a button

hole stitch.

BINDING WIRED EDGES OF FRAME

(Illus. 6 and 7) Cut bias strips of crinoline 2" wide

(stretch before using), fold over

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wired edges and baste to frame.

SEWING CROWN AND BRIM TOGETHER

Match markings on crown and

brim, slip crown over headsize on brim

and sew together (Illus. 8).

Instructions for covering frames page

28.

Covering a Basic Sailor Frame

DESCRIPTION

Use the same sailor pattern for cutting fabric

covering that you used to make sailor frame.

Instructions for making frame page 27.

If covering a ready-made frame, make a paper pattern of frame and use to cut fabric covering.

MATERIAL REQUIRED

• 1/2 yard of material is required to cover a sailor frame if edge of brim is to be finished with a wire.

• 3/4 of a yard is required if brim is to be finished with a bias fold.

• Lining and ribbon headband.

CUTTING MATERIAL

(Illus. 1) Place brim pattern on

bias of material and mark around brim

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edge and headsize. Allow 1/2" on brim edge when cutting

out material. (Do not cut material out on line around

headsize). Slash material inside the line from back to front and from side to side, and every half inch around headsize

just to the line. Mark back and front. Cut out two brim

pieces just alike.

COVERING BRIM

Put brim piece on top of frame brim, pulling it over the frame crown

and down on brim.

Match front and

back markings on

frame and material (Illus. 2). Extend material 1/2" on brim edge. Turn

material over brim edge 1/2". Pin and sew to under side of

frame (Illus. 3), catching material to frame. Place facing

piece of material on under side of brim, match markings

on frame and material and extend material 1/2" on brim edge. Pin facing to frame around brim edge and headsize.

FINISHING BRIM EDGE

Measure a wire to fit around edge

of brim and join with a wire joiner.

Turn edge of facing material over wire, slightly stretching material until facing

is smooth, and free from wrinkles. Pin facing around edge

of brim and sew to frame under wire, using a back stitch

(Illus. 4). If there seems to be too much material to turn

over wire, trim off excess amount before turning material over wire.

FINISHING BRIM EDGE WITH A BIAS FOLD

(Illus. 5) Cut a bias piece of

material 3" wide, stretch and pin

this bias fold around edge of brim

Page 35: How to Make Hats

wrong side out. Join ends of fold together on the bias.

Remove fold from brim, stitch and press seam open.

With seam on fold in back, pin edge of fold right

side out on edge of brim and sew to brim using a

back stitch.

Turn fold over edge of brim and pin around brim

edge, turn raw edge of fold under. Pin fold to facing

on under side of brim. Sew fold to facing using a slip

stitch.

COVERING CROWN

Place crown pattern on the

bias of material, mark around

pattern on material. Mark front of

crown on material and allow 1/2" when cutting out

material (Illus. 6).

Place material on crown top

with mark in front. Pin front, back

and sides of material to crown,

stretching material slightly as you pin. Turn material

over crown edge 1/2" and sew to side crown (Illus.

7).

COVERING SIDE CROWN

(Illus. 8) Measure the depth of

side crown on frame, and cut a bias

piece of material 2" wider than side

crown measures. Stretch and pin bias piece around

top of crown and join ends together on the bias.

Remove bias piece from crown. Stitch and press seam

open. Turn bias piece to right side and slip over

crown. Turn material under 1" around top of crown

Page 36: How to Make Hats

and turn balance of material up around bottom of

crown.

Do not sew material around top or bottom of

crown.

Finish headsize with a lining and a

swirled ribbon headband.

Instructions for linings and

headbands page 45.

Bias Covered Basic Sailor

Make a basic sailor frame (page 27) or use a ready made sailor frame. A bias

covered basic sailor requires half to three

quarters of a yard of material for covering

frame, depending on size of frame. Cover crown and brim

separately, then sew crown to brim.

TOP OF CROWN

Cut a 10" square of material to fit top crown, having one point of material in front and pin front back and sides to top of

crown, stretching material as you pin. Turn material over edge of

crown 1/2" and sew to side crown. Cut off excess material around crown under stitching.

SIDE CROWN

Cut a bias piece of material 2" wider than frame side crown

measures. Pin one edge of bias piece around top of crown

stretching bias as you pin. Pin ends together on the bias, remove from crown, stitch and press seam open. Return bias piece to

Page 37: How to Make Hats

side crown with seam in back. Turn material under 1" around top

of crown, balance of material turn over bottom edge of crown

and sew to inside of crown. Mark back and front of crown.

BIAS BRIM

Measure a bias piece to fit around brim, fold in

half lengthwise and turn

over brim. Stretch and pin to fit brim. Pin bias ends together,

remove from brim, stitch and press seam open. Fold bias

lengthwise and return to brim (be sure brim edge is in center of

fold). Pin around brim edge (Illus. 1). Pull top of material into

headsize and sew (Illus. 2), then remove pins on brim edge and pull material on facing into headsize and sew. Mark back and

front of brim.

SEWING CROWN TO BRIM

Match marking on crown and brim, pin

and sew crown to brim (Illus. 3).

LINING SAILOR

Requires a lining and headband.

Instructions page 45.

Making a Pattern of a Rolled Brim Breton Sailor

DESCRIPTION

To cut the material for covering a frame with a rolled or curved brim, make a paper pattern of the brim. To get every

detail and curve of frame, use 2" strips of thin paper, and make

an exact pattern of brim, then lay the pattern made of paper strips on a piece of paper and cut out pattern in one piece. This

Page 38: How to Make Hats

method is very satisfactory when working with any curved detail

on frame.

MAKING PATTERN OF PAPER STRIPS

(Illus. 1) Start in back of frame on facing side of brim, pin paper strips 2" wide

to frame, from brim edge to headsize,

pinning papers at brim edge, in center of

brim and at headsize. Continue pinning strips around brim, lapping papers slightly on brim edge

increasing lapping at

headsize to fit frame.

(Illus. 2) When entire facing is covered

with paper strips (Illus.

3) draw a line on paper

around edge of brim and around head-

size.

(Illus. 4) To remove paper pattern made of paper strips from

frame, carefully unpin each strip of

paper, one at a time from frame around edge of brim, slipping pins

back in holes in paper strips, and

pinning them together again. Unpin

papers on entire brim and around headsize in this manner. When

entire pattern has been removed from frame cut off excess paper on brim edge and

around headsize on line

drawn.

MAKING SECOND PATTERN

(Illus. 5) Place pattern made of strips of

Page 39: How to Make Hats

paper on a large piece of paper. Be sure pattern is perfectly flat

and smooth, then pin pattern to paper and draw a line around

brim edge and headsize and each side in back of pattern (Illus. 6). Mark back and front and cut out pattern on line drawn

around headsize and brim. Allow 1/2" on brim edge and at

headsize when cutting out material.

Covering a Breton Sailor

DESCRIPTION

A Breton Sailor has a rolled brim, requiring an exact paper

pattern to be made of the brim. The pattern is used to cut covering for frame. Material is then pinned to curved side on

brim edge and smoothed over curved side of frame that has

been smeared with Milliners Glue. Be sure that material has

adhered to curved side of frame and is thoroughly dry before putting on the facing material.

For pattern cutting instructions refer to page 31 For gluing

instructions refer to page 24.

MATERIAL REQUIRED

• 1/2 yard of material for covering frame

• Breton frame

• 3/4 yard of grosgrain headband ribbon

• One hat lining

COVERING A ROUND CROWN

(Illus. 1) Cut a square of material large enough to cover crown and pin

to head block back, front and sides.

Page 40: How to Make Hats

Hold block over steam and pull down points of material

back, front and sides until all wrinkles are worked out of

material. Pin material around bottom of block.

(Illus. 2) When material is dry, lift

off block and slip onto frame crown.

(Illus. 3) Sew around bottom of

crown and cut off excess material. Mark back and front of crown.

CUTTING MATERIAL FOR BRIM

(Illus. 4) Place pattern on material and mark around pattern, allow 1/2"

and cut out two brim pieces, one for top of brim and one for facing of brim. Join

brim pieces together in back, stitch and steam press seam

open.

PINNING AND GLUING MATERIAL TO FRAME

(Illus. 5) Smear framewith Milliners Glue.

(Illus. 6) Pin material on top of frame, seam in

back, and follow gluing

instructions. Turn material over brim edge 1/4" and sew.

Pin facing material,seam in back,to frame, allowing

1/2" of material to extend around edge of brim.

(Illus. 7) Measure a wire to fit

edge of brim and join wire with a wire joiner. Turn edge of facing material

over wire, and pin around edge of brim.

Page 41: How to Make Hats

(Illus. 8) Sew facing to brim under wire using a back stitch. Finish

headsize with a lining and a swirled

headband ribbon.

Instructions for linings and headband ribbons page 45.

Select any picture to view an enlargement in a new window

Pattern for a Basic Sailor

Draw line around headsize on material. Do not cut out on this line. Slash material

from back to front and from side to side to

line around headsize.

Select any picture to view an enlargement in a new window

Page 42: How to Make Hats

Pattern for a Basic Sailor

Draw line around headsize on material.

Do not cut out on this line. Slash material

from back to front and from side to side to line around headsize.

Select any picture to view an enlargement in a new window

Making a Pill Box Frame

PILL BOX CROWN (ILLUS. 1)

Use correct headsize pattern on page 14 for top of crown. Place pattern on a piece

of elastic net, mark around pattern and cut

out elastic net on line marked. Mark back

and front of crown. (Use pencil or tailor's

chalk for marking).

PILL BOX SIDE CROWN

Decide height you want Pill Box to be, and cut a bias piece of elastic net the length of your headsize measurement, and

allow 2" for lapping. Cut width of bias piece to correspond with

height Pill Box is to be.

WIRING TOP OF PILL BOX (ILLUS. 2)

Page 43: How to Make Hats

Measure a wire to fit top of Pill Box frame, join ends of wire with a wire joiner,

and sew wire around edge, using a button

hole stitch.

SEWING SIDE CROWN TO TOP OF PILL BOX

(Illus. 3) Hold edge of bias side crown

piece to wired top piece and overcast

together. Lap ends of bias side crown and sew flat.

WIRING BOTTOM OF PILL BOX (ILLUS. 4)

Measure a wire to fit bottom of Pill Box frame, join ends of wire with a wire joiner.

Sew wire around bottom of frame using a button hole stitch.

BINDING WIRES ON PILL BOX FRAME

Cut a 2" bias strip of crinoline (stretch bias strip of crinoline

before using). Fold crinoline over wired edges and baste crinoline to frame.

NON-HEADSIZE PILL BOX FRAME

Decide on size non-headsize Pill Box is to be, and

decrease pattern for top to correspond in size, with that

exception, follow instructions above for making non-

headsize Pill Box frame.

Instructions for covering Pill Box frame page 36.

How to Cover a Pill Box Frame

Page 44: How to Make Hats

HOW TO COVER A PILL BOX

Make a Pill Box frame (page 35) or use a ready-made Pill Box frame. Pill Box Hat requires half yard of material for covering frame.

TOP OF CROWN

(Illus. 1) Cut 13" square of material and lay on top of crown. Pin front, back and sides

to crown top, stretching

material as you pin.

Turn material over edge of crown 1/2" and baste to side crown (lilus. 2).

Cut off excess material around crown

under basting.

SIDE CROWN

(Illus. 3) Cut a bias piece of material 2" wider than frame side crown measures. Pin

one edge of bias piece to top of crown,

stretching bias as you pin.

Pin ends together making a bias

seam, stitch and press seam open. Return bias piece to side crown with seam

in back. Turn material under 1" around

top of crown, and balance of material turn

over bottom edge of crown and sew to inside of crown. (Illus. 4).

LINING PILL BOX

Requires a lining and headband.

Instructions page 45.

Page 45: How to Make Hats

Select any picture to view an enlargement in a new window

Pill Box Pattern

Half Hat

HALF HAT FRAME

(Illus. 1) Cut a bias piece of elastic net 5" x 11 1/2", dampen and place on Utility

Block (head block). Pull into shape from side

to side and pin to block with push pins. Let

dry on block. Measure a wire and sew on edge of frame, using a buttonhole stitch.

Join ends of wire with a joiner.

(Illus. 2) Cut 2" strips of crinoline (stretch crinoline strips before using) and

fold over wired edge and

baste.

(Illus. 3) Pin a metal bicycle clip on each side

of frame underneath.

Baste a strip of crinoline over each clip and stitch crinoline around

clips.

Page 46: How to Make Hats

The bicycle clip holds hat secure on head and can be

purchased in any Millinery Supply House.

COVERING HALF HAT FRAME

(Illus. 4) Cut a 7" bias piece of material, pin to one end of frame, stretch material

over top of frame and pin

to other end.

(Illus. 5) Turn material over edge of frame and sew to under side.

LINING HALF HAT

(Illus. 6) Fit a bias piece of lining material to under side of

frame and sew around

edge.

(Illus. 7) Finish with a blocked grosgrain

ribbon band inside edge of frame.

TRIMMING HALF HAT

(Illus. 8) Use bows or flowers for trimming each side of half hat or entire hat

frame can be covered with leaves. Each leaf

sewn on with a pearl bead and a small piece

of veiling is all the trimming required.

Hat Anchorage

Page 47: How to Make Hats

DESCRIPTION

Non-headsize hats and other small hats require an

anchorage to keep hat on head.

ELASTIC ANCHORAGE (ILLUS. 1)

Use a piece of thin rolled silk elastic. Measure elastic from side to side of hat

stretching slightly. Sew at each side of

headsize. Finish headsize with a swirled

ribbon headband.

WOUND WIRE (ILLUS. 2)

Cut a wire 17" long, turn a loop in each end of wire and sew to each side of

headsize. Use 1/2" wide ribbon or strips of

felt and sew one end to wire at headsize. Wind around wire tight to other side of headsize and sew to opposite wire. Finish head-

size with a swirled ribbon headband.

WIRE IN TUBING

(Illus. 3) Make a

1/4" tubing of felt or ribbon and run wire through tubing and sew

to either side of headsize. (Illus. 4) Cut

material 1/2" wide, fold in half and stitch

together for tubing.

WIRE LOOP

For a loop anchorage, make a half yard of 1/4" tubing of matching material. Slip wire

into tubing and turn wire at end of tubing,

making a 14" loop, join ends of wire with a

wire joiner. (Illus. 5) Fit balance of wire around inside of headsize and sew.

SHIRRED RIBBON WITH ELASTIC

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Measure two pieces of 1/2" ribbon, one and a half lengths

of elastic piece being used. Stitch ribbon together on each side

and run elastic through center of ribbon and sew on either side of headsize.

SIDE CLAMP ANCHORAGE

Run a wire through 1 1/8 yds. of velvet

tubing (or wind with No. 3 grosgrain ribbon).

Join wire with a wire joiner. Lap tubing ends and sew together. Measure 4" from this

joining and bend wire into a 7" loop and sew

together. Measure 12 1/2" and make another 7" loop and sew

together. Bend these loops, or tabs, to fit head, as shown in

(Illus.6). Sew tubing around head size of hat. These tabs are a new form of decoration besides serving their purpose of holding

hat in place. The tabs may be trimmed with flowers or bows.

VELVET ROLL

Measure paper rope to fit headsize. Cut and sew together.

Do not lap ends of paper rope. Cut a bias strip of material the length and width of the rope, allowing extra width for stretching

and turning seam. Stretch material around rope and pin. Lap

ends of material and sew. Turn edge of material under and slip

stitch. Sew covered rope around head size. Paper rope comes in

several thicknesses.

Non Headsize Hats

DESCRIPTION

A non-headsize hat always has a small headsize, measuring from 18" to 21" and some

seasons when non-headsize hats are very

Page 49: How to Make Hats

fashionable they become very extreme with the headsize

measuring only 12" and worn perched high on the head, tilted

forward. One-fourth to three-eighths of a yard of material is required depending on size of hat. An anchorage of elastic or a

matching band of material is necessary to hold hat on head. Hat

anchorages on page 39.

NON-HEADSIZE PILL BOX FRAME (ILLUS. 1)

Decide on size Non-headsize Pill Box is

to be, and cut pattern for top to correspond

in size, then follow instruction "How to Make a Pill Box Frame" page 35.

Instructions for covering Pill Box Frame

page 36.

NON-HEADSIZE SAILOR (ILLUS. 2)

Decide on size Non-headsize Sailor is to be and reduce or increase Non-headsize

Sailor pattern to correspond, then follow

instructions "Basic Sailor Buckram Frame" page 27.

Instructions for covering Basic Sailor Frame page 28.

Fabric Hat with Three-Piece Sectional Crown, Plain or Draped Brim

Trace pattern on page 78-79

Place each piece of pattern on fold of paper and cut double.

Page 50: How to Make Hats

MATERIAL REQUIRED

• 1 yd. wool

• 3/4 yd. crinoline.

• 3/4 yd. soft taffeta

• 1 bicycle clip

• 1/2 yd. blocking felt

• 3/4 yd. headband ribbon.

• 12 rings

CRINOLINE FOUNDATION

Mark around pattern on crinoline. Mark notches on

crinoline and cut out.

(Illus. 1) Match notches on pieces 2 and 3 and baste

together. Stitch on machine. (Illus. 2) Join pieces together with seam in back. (Illus. 3) Match markings on pieces 1

and 2, baste together and stitch. (Illus. 4) Place crinoline

foundation on correct head-size utility block. (Illus. 5)

Steam and pull

foundation down to fit block. Pin

foundation to

block around the

bottom and let

dry.

MAKING CROWN OF FABRIC

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Cut and sew fabric same as above. Baste each side of seams down flat and

stitch on machine. Place crown on utility

block wrong side out. Steam press seams

and pin around bottom of crown to block

and let dry. (Illus. 6)

Slip fabric crown

over crinoline foundation and baste

together. Place crown on block and

measure desired depth of crown from

back to front and from side to side. (Illus. 7) Mark depth

around crown with a basting thread. Cut off excess material 1/2" below this mark.

DRAPED BRIM

The above crown may be used with a brim of elastic net covered with the same fabric. Cut a bias strip of elastic

net, 8" x 36", and fold in half lengthwise. Pin and drape this strip around utility block until you have desired brim

style, then steam elastic net to keep shape and allow to

dry. Mark front of

brim. Pin elastic

net brim and crown together and try

on, making any

necessary

adjustments on

brim. Remove elastic net brim from crown. Lay elastic net brim on

material and cut material to correspond with elastic net.

Baste material and elastic net together. Fold brim back

into shape and pin to utility block. Slip crown on block

over brim. Match markings on crown and brim and pin together. Sew around headsize. Make lining from same

crown pattern and slip inside crown. Finish around

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headsize with a swirled ribbon headband. (Illus. 8). (Illus.

9).

Plain Brim Fabric Hat

Page 53: How to Make Hats

Lay

brim pattern on crinoline and blocking felt. Cut out one of each, (Illus. 1). Lay

brim pattern on wool material and cut out two brims, one for top

of brim and one for facing brim, (Illus. 2). Place wool brims right

sides together and baste around outer edge to crinoline and felt

brims and stitch, (Illus. 3).

Fit brim to head and pin ends of brim together

in back, (Illus. 4). Stitch

and steam press seam

open, (Illus. 5). Turn one

side of wool brim over and baste 1/4" from top all around brim edge, (Illus. 6).

Steam press brim.

Pull brim over wool crown on block and pin together

around headsize, (Illus.

7).

Try hat

on and make any adjustments

Page 54: How to Make Hats

necessary. Sew crown and brim together, (Illus. 8). Cut off any

excess material around headsize.

Make hat lining to match bag lining and finish with ribbon headband.

TRIM WITH A COVERED BICYCLE CLIP

Stitch two pieces of ribbon together. Slip bicycle clip in groove and adjust for hat

trim, (Illus. 9).

Fabric Bag to Match Hat

CUTTING

Cut two sections of No. 1 and two sections of No. 2 of wool,

crinoline and blocking felt. Cut two

tab facings of wool material extending 1" below notch. Cut two sections of

No. 1 and two sections of No. 2 of lining material (just to notch

on pattern).

SEWING

Baste crinoline and felt to wrong side of wool

sections, 1 and 2. Baste

tab facings at top of bag

and stitch, (Illus. 3). Turn

wool tab facings over and

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baste around top of tabs; stitch and press. Baste bag sections

together, making

a 1/4" seam, (Illus. 4).

Stitch and press seams open. Cut a strip of material 24" long and 1" wide. Stitch flat and press, (Illus. 5). Cut strip into

twelve 2" pieces. Slip a ring in center of each 2" piece, fold

material over ring and sew ends to bag. Sew four rings on each side of bag and two on each tab, (Illus. 6). Cut I 1/2 yds. of cord

in half and run each piece through rings to close bag, (Illus. 7).

LINING

Baste and stitch lining together. Place a square of

cardboard to fit bottom of bag. Slip lining in bag, turn in 1/2" and slip stitch to bag.

Bag Pattern for Fabric Hat

Page 56: How to Make Hats

Hat Linings and Headbands

DESCRIPTION

Hats made on a buckram frame require a lining and a

headband ribbon to finish headsize.

Felt hats require a headband ribbon only to finish headsize.

Use soft taffeta or crepe for hat linings.

Use No. 5 Saw-tooth Grosgrain ribbon for headbands.

BLOCKED LININGS FOR ROUND CROWNS

(llus. 1) Cut a 14" square of lining material and put on Utility Block. Pin back, front and sides to block. (Illus. 2) Hold

block over steam pulling down points on either side of back and

front until lining fits block, and is free from wrinkles. Pin lining to

block each step as you stretch and steam (Illus. 3).

Let lining dry on block then remove and slip lining into

crown. Pin and sew around, headsize, cutting off excess material. Finish headsize with a swirled headband ribbon.

LINING MADE FROM A PATTERN FOR SQUARE CROWNS

(Illus. 4) Cut a circle

of lining material to fit

top of crown. Notch front, back and side of circle. Cut a bias strip of

Page 57: How to Make Hats

lining material the width of side crown and length of headsize

measurement. Fold this strip of material into quarters, notch,

join ends and sew together. (Illus. 5) Match notches on bias strip with notches on circle, baste together and stitch. Slip lining into

crown, pin and baste around headsize. Cut off excess material

and finish with a swirled headband ribbon.

HEADBAND RIBBONS

Saw-Tooth grosgrain ribbon No. 5 is used to finish the headsize of hats. This ribbon will retain its shape when blocked

or swirled, which is very important. Allow 3/4 of a yard of ribbon

for a hat, as ribbon shrinks some when swirled.

SWIRLED RIBBON HEADBAND

Dampen ribbon and press into a circle, using a regular iron, (Illus. 6) if a steam iron

is used, ribbon does not need dampening.

Pin the large side of the ribbon circle to

headsize, letting the small side of ribbon

circle extend into headsize. Turn ribbon under and lap ends to finish ribbon headband.

BLOCKED RIBBON HEADBAND

(Illus. 7) Put hat on Utility Block and draw a line on block around headsize, then

remove hat.

Wet a piece of headband ribbon.

Starting in back

on line drawn on block, pin (Illus. 8) (with push pins) one edge of ribbon, stretching

and turning ribbon to fit block (Illus. 9).

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When dry remove ribbon and pin into headsize of hat, and sew using invisible

stitch (Illus. 10).

RIBBON HEADBAND FOR BERET

Do not swirl headband ribbon for Berets. Ribbon

headband must measure your exact

headsize measurement after ends have been lapped and joined, before pinning

ribbon into Beret head-size (Illus. 11).

Divide ribbon headband into quarters and mark, then divide beret headsize into

quarters and mark, match marks on Beret

headsize with marks on ribbon headband

and pin and sew ribbon around Beret

headsize (Illus. 12). If ribbon headband is larger than Beret headsize, stretch Beret headsize to fit ribbon, if ribbon headband

is smaller than Beret headsize hold headsize

in to fit ribbon.

After ribbon headband has been sewn flat around Beret head-size, dampen ribbon

headband and turn ribbon headband up into

Beret headsize (Illus. 13), then pull Beret over Utility block and let ribbon headband dry on block.

SEWING IN SWIRLED HEADBAND RIBBONS

When sewing in a headband on a Beret use an overcast

stitch on edge of ribbon. For all other headbands use a small

stitch in a rib of the ribbon on the outside and slant needle into hat headsize taking a long stitch on underside. Continue in this

manner, a long and a short stitch until entire headband has been

sewn around headsize.

Page 59: How to Make Hats

Materials Used to Make Straw Hats

STRAW BRAIDS

• PLAIN STRAW BRAID. . . MADE ON A BLOCK OR OVER A FRAME

• ROUGH STRAW BRAID. . .MADE ON A BLOCK

• TUSCAN BRAID. . .MADE ON A BLOCK

• STRAW BANDING. . .CROWN MADE ON A FOUNDATION

• STRAW CLOTH. . .MADE ON A FRAME

STRAW BODIES

• BAKU. . .MADE ON A BLOCK

• SISAL. . .MADE ON A BLOCK

• SHANTUNG. . .MADE ON A BLOCK

• LEGHORN. . .CROWN BLOCKED AND BRIM WIRED

• ROUGH STRAW. . .CROWN BLOCKED AND BRIM WIRED

• HORSEHAIR. . .CROWN BLOCKED AND BRIM WIRED

• MILAN. . .REQUIRES A PROFESSIONAL BLOCKER

• PANAMA. . . REQUIRES A PROFESSIONAL

BLOCKER

INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE ABOVE STRAWS ARE

GIVEN ON THE FOLLOWING PAGES, EXCEPT PANAMA AND MILAN WHICH REQUIRE A

PROFESSIONAL BLOCKER

Page 60: How to Make Hats

Using a Buckram Frame as a Block for a Straw Braid Hat Making Crown and Brim Separate

Any style frame may be used as a block to shape straw braid. The braid is basted to the frame and steamed. The rows of

braid are then sewn together. Care must be taken not to sew

braid to frame. Basting threads are cut and removed and braid is sized and allowed to dry on frame. Finished braid hat is then

removed from frame.

MATERIAL REQUIRED

• Buckram frame.

• 8 to 10 yards of 1" straw braid.

Wrap straw braid in damp towel for several hours

before using.

MARKING FRAME

When crown and brim are to be made separately, mark back, front and sides at bottom of frame crown with

a colored thread. Also mark frame brim at headsize edge

to match marking on crown. Then separate crown from

brim.

MAKING STRAW CROWN

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Wind thread around one end of

straw and

manipulate straw

into a circle,

slightly lapping one row of straw over the other. (Illus. 1) Sew two rows into

circle and without cutting straw off baste this circle on top

of crown. Continue basting each .row of braid to frame

until top of crown is covered, then slightly pull braid and

continue, basting braid to side crown, until bottom of crown is reached. Run last row of braid off on a slant and

cut braid off (Illus. 2). Steam straw crown slightly over

tea-kettle and sew rows of braid together, using small

stitches concealed in the straw, be careful not to sew through braid to frame. Clip and remove all basting

threads, except at bottom of crown. Apply a coat of straw

sizing and allow to dry. Mark bottom of straw crown to

correspond with markings on frame. Remove basting

threads at bottom of crown and slip straw crown off frame.

MAKING STRAW BRIM

(Illus. 3) Start in back on brim edge and baste straw braid to frame,

slightly pulling and lapping each row,

until headsize is reached. Turn braid

up around headsize 1/2" run braid off on a slant and cut off.

Steam brim over teakettle and sew rows of braid together, using small stitches concealed in the straw. Mark

straw brim at headsize to correspond with markings on

frame brim. Cut and remove basting threads, except

around brim edge. Apply straw sizing and let dry. Remove

bastings on brim edge and slip straw brim off frame.

WIRING BRIM EDGE

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Measure a wire to fit brim edge and join with a wire

joiner. Pin wire around brim edge on under side, and sew

wire to straw. Start in back and fit a row of braid over wire on under side of brim, turn end under and lap braid. Sew

row of braid around under side of brim edge. Apply a coat

of straw sizing and let dry.

SEWING CROWN AND BRIM TOGETHER

(Illus. 4) Match markings on crown

and brim. Pin together and sew crown

to brim around headsize. Finish headsize with a swirled headband ribbon.

Instructions for swirled headband on

page 45.

Making a Straw Braid Hat in One Piece Using a Buckram Frame for a Block

MATERIAL REQUIRED

• Hat frame.

• 8 to 10 yards of 1" straw braid.

BASTING STRAW BRAID TO FRAME

WRAP STRAW BRAID IN A DAMP TOWEL FOR

SEVERAL HOURS BEFORE USING. (Illus. 1) Starting in back, baste

braid on top side of frame on brim

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edge, lapping each row of braid slightly, pulling braid just

a little as you baste. Continue in this manner until top of

crown is reached. Last row will have an elongated shape instead of round. Slip end of braid on top under last row,

cut off braid and baste flat.

STEAMING AND SEWING BRAID

Pass braid side of frame through

steam from a teakettle several times

(do not hold frame still in steam at

any time) Keep it moving as too much steam in one spot will cause frame to

collapse. (Illus. 2) Sew each row together while on frame,

using small stitches concealed in straw being careful not to

sew through to buckram frame. When braid is thoroughly

dry, clip basting and remove basting threads except around brim edge of frame. Apply a coat of straw sizing to

straw and allow to dry thoroughly on frame. When

thoroughly dry clip basting on brim edge and remove from

frame.

WIRING BRIM EDGE OF HAT

Measure a

piece of wire to fit

brim edge and join

wire with a wire joiner. Pin wire on

under side of straw

brim and whip stitch wire to braid

(Illus. 3). Fit a row of straw braid over wire on under side,

starting braid in back, turn ends of braid under and sew around brim edge (Illus. 4). Steam this row of braid

slightly, let dry and apply a coat of straw sizing to entire

under side of brim and allow to dry thoroughly.

HEADSIZE FINISH

Page 64: How to Make Hats

Finish around headsize with a swirled headband

ribbon.

Instructions for swirled headband ribbon page 45.

Making Straw Braid Crowns and Brims on Wood Hat Blocks

MATERIAL REQUIRED

• 8 to 10 yards of 1" straw braid.

• Utility brim block with correct headsize band block for brim.

• Utility head block in correct headsize for crown.

BLOCKING BRIM

Wrap straw in damp towel for several hours

before using. (Illus.

1)

Measure desired width of

brim on brim block and draw a line for brim edge around block. (Illus. 2)

Starting in back and using push

pins, pin first row of braid to block on

this line. Lap each row of braid slightly

until headsize is reached (Illus. 3). Turn braid up 1/2" on headband

block and cut braid

off (Illus. 4).

Slip straight

pins into braid and remove push pins,

Page 65: How to Make Hats

except around brim edge. Press carefully with an iron and

a damp cloth (Illus. 5).

Be sure iron is not too hot. (Illus. 6) Tie a cord tight around headsize

over straw and let straw brim dry on

block. Mark back and front of brim.

When thoroughly dry, remove brim from block and sew each row of braid together, concealing stitches in

braid. Measure a wire to fit brim edge and join with a wire

joiner. Pin wire to facing of brim and whip wire to braid around brim edge. Fit a row of braid over wire and sew

braid around brim edge. Steam this row of braid slightly.

Return brim to block and pin down. Apply a coat of straw

sizing and allow brim to dry on block.

BLOCKING CROWN

Measure head from back to front

and from side to side for desired depth

of crown. Mark measurements on crown block and draw a line around

block, (Illus. 7)

Wind one end

of the straw braid with thread and manipulate braid into a circle. Sew

about two rows of braid, then pin to

top of block. Continue pinning

rows of braid to block, lapping

each row slightly and pulling braid to fit block, until crown is desired depth. (Illus. 8) Cut

braid off on a slant and run last row of braid off to nothing.

Slip straight pins into straw and remove push pins. Press

slightly with an iron and damp cloth and let dry on block.

Mark back and front of crown. When dry, remove from block and

sew each row of braid, concealing

stitches in straw. Again place crown on

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block and pin to block around the bottom with push pins

(Illus. 9). Apply a coat of straw sizing and let crown dry on

block.

SEWING CROWN AND BRIM TOGETHER

Match front and back markings on crown and brim, pin together, then sew crown to brim around headsize.

Finish head-size with a swirled ribbon

headband.

If tuscan or any other lacey braid

is used (Illus. 10a), run wire for brim edge through velvet tubing. (Illus.

10b)

Join wire ends

with a joiner then

neatly finish lap ends of tubing with

several slip stitches. (Illus.

10c)

Pin velvet tubing to under side of

brim and slip stitch tubing to straw. (Illus. 11)

Making Straw Braid Pill Box on a Block

MATERIAL REQUIRED

• Four to six yards of 1" straw braid.

• Use a square crown block correct headsize for blocking braid.

Page 67: How to Make Hats

DAMPEN BRAID

Wrap straw braid in a damp cloth for several hours

before using.

TOP OF CROWN

Wind one end of straw with a thread, fold slightly lap and manipulate braid, sewing braid into a circle for about

two rows of braid, fasten thread. Pin braid to top center of

block.

SIDE CROWN

Continue pulling and fitting braid, lapping each row slightly, until top of block is covered with braid, then pull

braid as you start to pin braid to side crown and continue

pinning and lapping each row of braid slightly until desired

measurement is reached on side crown, usually 2 1/2" dependent entirely on current style. Use push pins to pin

braid to block, then baste braid. Remove push pins.

STEAM BRAID ON BLOCK

Carefully steam braid on block by holding block over

steaming tea kettle for several minutes. Allow braid to dry on block.

SEWING BRAID

Take straw off block and sew each row of braid together with matching thread, concealing stitches in

straw. Remove basting.

SIZING STRAW

After sewing braid return to block and pin bottom row

of braid to block. Slightly steam again and allow to thoroughly dry on block. Then apply a coat of straw sizing

and let straw dry on block. Finish inside of hat with a

swirled headband.

Page 68: How to Make Hats

NON-HEADSIZE PILL BOX

For a Non-headsize pill box use a 21" headsize block or smaller.

Instructions for swirled headband on page 45.

Hat Made of 5" Straw Banding

DESCRIPTION

5" straw banding comes in many different colors and color combinations. It

can be used for trimming or for making an

entire hat. The crown of a straw banding hat

is made on a blocked foundation. A tapered crown block is most satisfactory for blocking the foundation. Brims may be blocked in

sailor, mushroom or breton shape.

Beautiful draped hats can be made of 5" straw banding by thoroughly wetting braid and shaping crown on round head block

and then draping brim around crown, allowing it to dry on block

and applying straw sizing.

MATERIAL REQUIRED

• 2 1/2 to 3 yards of 5" straw banding.

• 1/3 yard of starched georgette for blocked foundation.

• Utility brim block No. 1514X.

• Tapered crown block

Page 69: How to Make Hats

BLOCKED FOUNDATION

Instructions for blocking crown foundation on page 21.

CROWN

(Illus. 1) Place blocked georgette

foundation on block. Measure two

strips of banding to fit top of crown,

allowing two inches on each strip for

turning over side crown.

Stitch strips

together and press seam open. (Illus.

2) Pin banding to top of foundation

with seam in center top of crown. Turn banding over edge of crown and sew,

to foundation one inch from top of

crown.

Measure a piece of banding to fit

side crown. Stitch ends together and press seam open. Put side crown on

block with seam in back. (Illus. 3) Pin

to foundation and sew around top of

crown. Trim off excess foundation

material 1" below bottom of crown, turn under and sew to banding around bottom of side crown. Apply straw sizing

and let dry on block. Mark front of crown.

BRIM

(Illus. 4) Mark desired width of

brim on flat side of brim block and

draw a line around block for brim

edge.

Page 70: How to Make Hats

(Illus. 5) Measure a wire to fit line

on block.

(Illus. 6) Join ends of wire with a

joiner.

(Illus. 7)

Measure a piece of straw banding to fit

around wire. To measure straw banding, turn edge over wire and pin,

stretch banding tight and pin to wire

all the way around. Allow 3" for seam. Remove banding

from wire and stitch ends together. Press seam open. Turn

each side of seam under and sew down by hand. Press.

(Illus. 8) Turn this piece of

banding over wire 1/4" and sew

around wire. (Illus. 9) Pin wired edge of

banding to block along the line and

steam press banding into headsize. Tie

a blocking cord over straw around

headsize on block and let dry. Apply straw sizing to brim and let dry on block. Mark front of brim.

SEWING CROWN AND BRIM TOGETHER

(Illus. 10) Match front markings

on crown and brim, pin together, then

sew crown to brim around headsize. Finish headsize with a swirled ribbon headband.

MUSHROOM BRIM

Follow instructions for sailor brim.

To block brim in mushroom shape,

(Illus. 11) pin wired edge of banding

on curved side of brim block.

Page 71: How to Make Hats

(Illus. 12) Steam press banding

into headsize and tie blocking cord

around headsize. Finish same as sailor brim.

BRETON BRIM

Measure straw

banding and wire in

the same manner

as for sailor brim. DO NOT pin brim

edge to block, and do not join wire ends until hat is finished. Place

banding on block, steam around headsize and tie a

blocking cord around headsize. (Illus. 13) Curve brim

banding up and pull in wire on edge until brim has desired

roll. (Illus. 14) Join ends of wire with a joiner. Finish same as sailor brim.

TRIMMING SUGGESTIONS FOR STRAWS

Large or small flowers, pearls or other beads, velvet

bows, gros-grain ribbon, veiling, maline pompoms or

ribbon cocardes may be used to trim straws. Small flowers may be placed around brim or large roses placed at back

of hat or maline pompoms at the side, etc.

Blocking Rough Straw Bodies

BLOCKING ROUGH STRAW BODIES

(Illus. 1) Rough

straw bodies can be

Page 72: How to Make Hats

made into hats without blocking. Simply wire the brim edge and

sew a headband ribbon inside crown around headsize. (Illus. 2)

When this method is used, hat brim will be large and the same size all around. To make the brim shorter in back, block the

crown, drape and fold back of brim until desired effect is

achieved.

To separate crown from brim or make brim smaller on a rough straw body, pull out and cut off cord running between

braid rows. Another method is to measure desired depth of

crown and draw a line on straw around crown, measure desired width of brim and draw a line on straw around brim. Machine

stitch on line around crown and brim. Cut straw off 1/4" outside

of machine stitching.

BLOCKING STRAW CROWN Wrap straw body in a damp cloth for

several hours before blocking. Tuck back of brim, at headsize, inside crown and pin.

Taper tuck off to nothing on sides of brim.

(Illus. 3) Steam press crown around headsize, pressing in any

folds, and let dry on block. Apply a coat of straw sizing and let dry on block. Mark front of hat.

BLOCKING BRIM

(Illus. 4) Steam press any tucks in brim. Pin brim to flat side of utility brim

block and steam press. Let dry on block.

Apply a coat of straw sizing and let dry on

block. Mark back and front of brim.

WIRING BRIM EDGE

Measure a wire to fit around brim about 2" inside of outer

edge. Run wire through velvet tubing. Join ends of wire with a

joiner, pull velvet tubing tight on wire and

join tubing. To join tubing, lap one end of

Page 73: How to Make Hats

tubing over the other, turn raw edge under and sew. Pin wired

tubing around underside of brim and sew, taking a long stitch

through tubing and a short stitch through straw (lllus. 5).

Finish headsize with a swirled ribbon headband.

Blocking a Leghorn Straw Body

BLOCKING CROWN

Pin crown on Utility headblock, steam

and press until crown fits block. Measure desired depth of crown from back to front

and from side to side and draw a line on

straw around block. (Illus .1) Cut off excess straw 1" below the

line. Mark back and front of crown.

BLOCKING BRIM

Slip leghorn brim on brim block, with correct headband block size, and allow straw to turn up 1"

around headsize.

(Illus. 2) Pin brim down to block around headsize, and lay a damp cloth over straw

and press thoroughly around headsize.

(Illus. 3) Pin brim down to block around

edge of brim. Measure and mark exact size

brim is to be and draw a line around brim on straw. Cut off excess straw on this line. Mark

back and front of brim.

FINISHING BRIM WITH A BIAS FOLD

Measure a wire to fit edge of brim and join wire with a wire

joiner, and sew wire around edge of straw brim, using an

Page 74: How to Make Hats

overcast stitch. Cut a 3" bias piece of velvet or silk. Stretch and

pin one edge of the bias piece around the edge of brim and join

ends on the bias. Remove bias piece and stitch joining on machine and steam press seam open. Return bias piece to brim,

and pin around edge, with bias joining seam in back of brim.

Sew bias piece to brim using a back stitch.

(Illus. 4) Turn bias piece over edge of

brim, and turn raw edge of fold under. Pin fold around under side of brim and sew,

using a ilip stitch.

SEWING CROWN AND BRIM TOGETHER

(Illus. 5) Match markings on brim and

crown and pin together, and sew crown to

brim around headsize. Finish headsize with a

swirled headband ribbon.

Instructions for swirled headband page 45.

Blocking Straw Bodies of Baku, Sisal, Shantung

SIZING

Glue sizing straw bodies is a professional

method and is entirely optional. Good results are obtained without glue sizing straw bodies. Baku, sisal and shantung straw

bodies may be dipped in glue sizing and allowed to dry over

night before using.

BLOCKING CROWN

Page 75: How to Make Hats

(Illus. 1) Wet straw body until soft and

pliable. Place on block, stretching and pulling

straw until all fullness has been worked out and crown is free from wrinkles. Pin around

bottom of block and tie a blocking cord over straw around block

at bottom of crown. Allow to dry thoroughly.

(Illus. 2) Measure desired depth of

crown from back to front and from side to side and draw a line around crown on straw.

Remove crown from block and stitch on line

around crown on sewing machine. Cut off excess straw around

crown 1/2" below stitching.

BLOCKING BRIM

Stretch straw brim out on a flat surface,

working out fullness and smoothing out all

wrinkles. Turn straw up 1/2" on headband

block and pin to block around headsize. (Illus. 3) Measure desired width of brim from headsize to brim

edge and draw a line around brim edge on straw. Remove from

block and machine stitch on line. Cut off excess straw 1/2"

outside stitching.

FINISHING BRIM WITH PLAIN HEM

Measure a wire to fit around stitching on brim. Join ends of wire with a joiner. Turn straw brim edge over wire 1/2" to

underside. Baste and stitch around brim edge.

FINISHING BRIM WITH RIBBON EDGE

Use 3" wide grosgrain ribbon. Dampen, fold and lightly press and swirl ribbon.

Stretch and pin edge of ribbon to brim edge,

easing or stretching ribbon to fit where

Page 76: How to Make Hats

necessary. Lap one end of ribbon over the other in back. Sew

ribbon to straw using a back stitch. Turn ribbon over brim edge

and pin to underside. (Illus. 4) Sew around brim with small stitches on outside of ribbon and slanting needle as you go

through to take the next stitch.

Cleaning and Remodeling Straw Hats

REMODELING STRAW CROWNS

Straw braid crowns can be raised by reblocking and adding several rows of braid to

bottom of crown, or lowered by removing

several rows of braid around bottom of crown.

Square straw crowns can be made round by reblocking on a round utility block head block.

Round crowns can be made square by fitting a pasteboard

to small end of utility head block, and securing pasteboard to block with adhesive tape, then reblock crown on this end of

block.

REMODELING STRAW BRIMS

Straw brims can be made smaller by cutting off around

brim edge, or made larger by adding a taffeta or velvet fold around brim edge, or a row of hair braid.

If brim is a flat sailor type and a scooped effect would bring

hat up to date or be more becoming, cut brim open at center back and lap one side over the other, turning straw edge under

and stitch flat.

CLEANING STRAWS

Page 77: How to Make Hats

Baku, shantung, or any other straw that will take water can

be washed. Remove all ribbons and wires and scrub straw with a

brush and lukewarm soapsuds. Rinse in lukewarm water. Reblock straw while still wet, using the same method of blocking

as for new straw. When dry after blocking, apply a coat of straw

sizing. If the straw is colored, use sizing of the same color. This

will renew faded straw. Many straws can be dyed another color.

To freshen a Milan hat, pin brim to a hard surface and steam press into shape. Let dry and size with sizing of the same

color.

Many straw braids can be cleaned by wiping off with

cleaning fluid. Steam press, pin hat to a flat surface and let dry.

Apply a coat of straw sizing and let dry.

CLEANING FABRIC HATS

Clean fabric hats by dipping a small pad into cleaning fluid and rubbing it over hat surface.

Steam velvet hats lightly over a steaming teakettle and brush with a soft brush.

Materials Used to Make Felt Hats

FELT HOOD (ILLUS. 1) A felt hood is shaped like an elongated

crown and is used to block small hats and to make pattern hats.

FELT BODY (ILLUS. 2) A felt body has a

semi-shaped crown and a

brim and is used when blocking a

brimmed hat, and can be blocked on a block

Page 78: How to Make Hats

or used in a combination of blocking the crown and using a

pattern for the brim.

FELT SKIRTING

Skirting is available in lengths and is also a fur felt, used for turbans and small draped hats. Usually requires a foundation.

WOOL FELT BY THE YARD

Wool felt by the yard is used for Berets and many casual

stitched hats and bags. A foundation is often

required.

FELTS • Fur felt

• Velour

• Soleil

• Melusine

Are available in hoods and bodies. Hoods are used to make the smaller hats and the

felt body is used when making a brimmed hat.

Fur felt is made from Belgian Hares, is the most satisfactory felt to work with, is soft and pliable, does not

become stiff when steam and water is applied, and can be

made over season after season. The initial cost is greater

than wool felt, but the fact that it is so much more

satisfactory to work with and can be used over, makes it the better buy. Wool felts are a cheaper felt and become

very stiff when steam or water is applied, making it almost

impossible to use wool felt more than one season.

STEAMING AND PRESSING FELTS

(Illus. 3) Felts

require steam and heat

to allow stretching and

smoothing to fit block.

Page 79: How to Make Hats

Put felt on block, hold over steaming teakettle and as each

spot of felt becomes hot and moist, pull, stretch and pin

felt to block. (Illus. 4). When stretching felt for brims or

pattern cutting, lay a damp cloth over

'felt and press. When felt becomes hot

and moist it is more pliable and can

easily be stretched. (Illus. 5)

TO POLISH FELT WHEN FINISHED

Wet pressing cloth and wring dry. Roll cloth into a thick pad and place under hot iron. When pad is steaming

hot, smooth it over felt surfaces with a circular motion.

Continue heating pad and rubbing over felt until entire surface has been polished.

How to Block a Felt Body on a One-Piece Block

DESCRIPTION

Many different style blocks, used to block felt hats are

manufactured. Some blocks are made in several sections and some are made in one solid piece.

The same procedure used for blocking felt on a one-piece block is used when blocking felt on a block made in sections,

with the exception of removing felt from block when felt is dry.

To remove felt from the one-piece block, remove pins and

blocking cords around brim and bottom of crown. Slip felt hat off

block. To remove felt from a block made in sections, unpin felt from block and remove blocking cords, slip hand under block and

remove one section of block at a time, until all sections of block

have been removed from felt hat.

Page 80: How to Make Hats

BLOCKING FELT CROWN

Wrap fur felt body in a damp cloth for several hours before

blocking. (Illus. 1) Pull felt body over

crown on block, steam, pull and stretch felt, until all wrinkles

have been removed and felt fits crown block perfectly. Pin felt around bottom of crown (with push pins) and tie a blocking cord

around bottom of crown on block (Illus. 2).

BLOCKING FELT BRIM

Pull brim of felt body over block brim,

steam, pull and stretch felt until all wrinkles

have been removed and felt fits brim block

perfectly. Pin felt to block around edge of brim (with push pins) and tie a blocking cord over felt in groove

on brim edge of block. (Illus. 3) Draw a line on felt around edge

of brim and mark back and front of hat. Let dry on block.

WIRING BRIM EDGE

To remove felt from block, untie cords around brim edge and bottom of crown. Trim excess felt on edge of brim 1/4" from

line.

Measure wire to fit brim edge and join

wire with a wire joiner. Turn felt on brim

edge over wire 1/4" and pin felt to facing, and sew using a small overcast stitch (Illus.

4).

Finish headsize with a swirled ribbon headband.

Instructions for headband page 45.

Blocking Felt Crown and Brim on Separate Blocks

Page 81: How to Make Hats

MATERIAL REQUIRED

• Utility head block in correct headsize

• Utility brim block with correct headsize

• Fur felt body

• 3/4 of a yard of headband ribbon

BLOCKING CROWN

Wrap felt body in a damp cloth for several hours before blocking.

(Illus. 1) Pull felt body on Utility head

block, steam, pull and stretch felt until

all wrinkles have been removed and

felt fits block perfectly. Pin felt to block (with push pins).

(Illus. 2) Measure your head from

back to front and from side to side,

the depth crown is to be. Mark these

measurements on felt, and draw a line around block on felt. Mark back and

front of crown.

(Illus. 3) When felt crown is dry,

remove crown from block and cut off

excess felt on crown 1/2" below line on felt.

BLOCKING BRIM

Use felt piece cut off from bottom

of crown for the brim. Dampen.

(Illus. 4) Put felt piece on Utility brim block. Turn felt up 1/2" around

headsize on block. Pin felt to block

around headsize. Steam, pull and

stretch felt out on brim block as much as possible and pin

edge of brim to block.

Page 82: How to Make Hats

(Illus. 5) Lay a damp cloth on felt

brim and steam press felt around

headsize until all wrinkles have been removed from felt brim and felt fits

headsize on brim perfectly.

Illus. 6. Measure width brim is to

be in front, back and each side and

draw a line on felt (with tailors chalk) cut off excess felt 1/4" below line.

WIRING BRIM EDGE

(Illus. 7) Measure a wire to fit

edge of felt brim and join wire with a

wire joiner.

(Illus. 8) Turn

felt over wire 1/4" around edge of brim. Pin and sew felt to under side

of brim using a small overcast

stitch. Pin wired brim on block again and steam wired

edge.

SEWING CROWN AND BRIM TOGETHER

(Illus. 9) Match markings on

crown and brim, pin crown over brim

headsize. Sew crown to brim around

headsize using a small overcast stitch.

Finish headsize with a swirled ribbon headband.

Instructions for headband ribbon on page 45.

Blocking a Fur Felt Body Using Combination of a Blocked Crown and Brim Cut from a Pattern

MATERIAL REQUIRED

Page 83: How to Make Hats

• Fur felt body

• Utility head block in your correct headsize

• Brim pattern�instructions pattern making page 17.

• 3/4 of a yard of headband ribbon

• Utility brim block

BLOCKING FELT CROWN

Wrap felt body in a damp cloth

for several hours before blocking. Pull

felt body over Utility head block,

steam, pull and stretch felt down until

all wrinkles have been removed and felt fits crown block perfectly. Pin felt

to block (with push pins) and tie a

blocking cord around block over felt. Let felt dry on block

(Illus. 1).

Measure your head from back to front the depth crown is to be and from side to side and mark these

measurements on felt, and draw a line around block on

felt.

Mark back and front of crown on felt.

When felt crown is dry, remove crown from block and cut off excess felt on crown 1/2" below line on felt.

MAKING FELT BRIM

(Illus. 2) Use

felt cut off from

crown for brim, cut

open at narrowest

place. Lay felt on a pressing board and cover with a damp cloth, steam press (Illus. 3), stretching

felt as you press until felt is stretched enough to fit brim

pattern.

Page 84: How to Make Hats

(Illus. 4) Place brim pattern on

felt, and mark around pattern with

tailor's chalk) on felt. Cut out felt brim 1/2" from this line. Mark back and

front of brim on

felt.

(Illus. 5) Sew brim together in

back using a furring stitch, and slip brim on Utility brim block; allow

1/2" of felt to turn up around

headsize on block.

(Illus. 6)

Cover felt brim with a damp cloth

and press felt into

headsize. Tie a blocking cord

around headsize on block over felt and pin brim edge of felt to brim block (using push pins). Let brim dry on block

(Illus. 7)

Remove felt brim from block, match markings on brim and crown.

Slip crown over headsize on brim

and sew crown and brim together,

using a small overcast stitch (Illus. 8).

WIRING BRIM

Measure a wire to fit edge of brim and join wire with a wire joiner. Turn felt brim edge over wire 1/4" and pin

around brim. Sew felt to under side of brim using a small

overcast stitch.

Finish headsize with a swirled headband.

Page 85: How to Make Hats

Blocking a Felt Hood into a Tapered Brim

MATERIAL REQUIRED

• Fur felt hood

• Utility head block in correct headsize

• 3/4 of a yard of headband ribbon

BLOCKING CROWN

Wrap felt in a damp cloth for several hours tefore

blocking. Pull felt hood over Utility block, steam, pull and stretch felt down, until all wrinkles have been removed

and felt fits head block perfectly. Pin felt to block (with

push pins) and tie a blocking cord around block over felt.

Let felt crown dry on block. Mark back and front of crown.

Measure your head from back to front and from side to side, depth crown is to be, and mark these measurements

on felt. Draw a line around block on felt. When crown is

dry remove crown from block and cut off excess felt on

bottom of crown 1/2" below line.

MAKING A PATTERN FOR A FELT BRIM

(Illus. 1) Put blocked felt crown

on Utility head block. Use a bias piece

of crinoline to make brim pattern,

pinning one edge of crinoline to bottom of felt crown, stretching

crinoline slightly as you pin. (Use push

pins).

(Illus. 2) Adjust and manipulate

crinoline brim pattern, until you are satisfied that brim will be becoming to

you. Then mark crown where brim

starts and ends, draw a line around

headsize and brim edge on crinoline

pattern. (Illus. 3)

Page 86: How to Make Hats

Remove pattern and cut off excess crinoline on line around

headsize and brim edge.

Use this crinoline pattern to cut out felt brim.

Using the principles given above, many smart and unusual brims can be created.

CUTTING OUT FELT BRIM

Use the piece of felt cut off from

the blocked crown for the brim. Cut

this piece open at the narrowest place,

and lay on a pressing board, cover

with a damp cloth and steam. Stretch felt until it is large enough for pattern

to fit on the felt (Illus. 4).

Place crinoline brim pattern on

felt and mark around pattern. Remove pattern and cut out felt on line drawn.

Match markings on crown and brim

and (Illus. 5) slip brim under crown on

block, pin together. Remove from

block and sew crown and brim together using a small overcast stitch.

Then (Illus. 6) put hat back on Utility

head block and thoroughly steam crown

and brim, pulling crown

down to fit block. Pin crown around

bottom to block, let dry

on block (Illus. 7).

Finish headsize with a swirled ribbon headband.

Instructions for ribbon headband page 45.

Page 87: How to Make Hats

Crescent Felt Hat

REQUIREMENTS

• Large felt hood

• 7 yards of 1/4" braid

• 3/4 yard headband ribbon

Use pattern on page 71.

CUTTING PATTERN

Trace and cut out 9 crescent sections and mark top of

each section like pattern. Cut out one piece of pattern

trim.

CUTTING FELT

Cut one side of felt hood open from bottom to top, steam press felt hood flat as possible.

(Illus. 1) Arrange the 9 crescent

pieces of pattern and one piece for trim on felt. Mark around pattern on

felt (with tailor's chalk) and mark top

of each crescent, and cut out felt on

line.

SEWING AND BLOCKING FELT

(Illus. 2) Sew braid around

curved side of each crescent, on both sides and around piece

for trim.

(Illus. 3) Fold

trim piece on line and pin top of each

crescent piece to trim. Place on your correct Utility headsize

block.

(Illus. 4) Fit, lap

and pin each crescent

section together evenly to fit block.

Page 88: How to Make Hats

(Illus. 5) Steam and let dry on

block.

(Illus. 6) Remove from block and sew

each crescent section

together on inside

edge of braid.

FINISH HEADSIZE

Finish headsize with a swirled headband ribbon.

Crescent Felt Hat Pattern

Fringed Felt Casual Hat

MATERIAL REQUIRED FOR HAT AND BAG

• 1/2 yard of wool felt

FRINGED FELT CASUAL HAT

Make this hat of any color wool

Page 89: How to Make Hats

felt or use a combination of color, using one color felt for

hat and a contrasting color felt for fringe trimming.

CUTTING FABRICS

Use pattern on page 73 for hat.

Lay pattern on a double piece of felt and mark around

pattern on felt and cut out. Mark back and front on each piece of felt and mark side seams as indicated on pattern.

ASSEMBLING

(Illus. 1)

Match notches on

center pieces,

baste together and stitch.

Steam seam open, and (Illus. 2) stitch each side of seam flat. Trim off excess material on

seams.

(Illus. 3) Match front of each side

piece to front of center piece, and

baste together on side seam.

Stitch and

steam press seam open and (Illus. 4)

stitch each side seam flat. Trim

seams.

FRINGE TRIMMING (Illus. 5) Cut a strip of felt

1"x36". Fringe one

side of felt 1/2" deep and make

fringe 1/16" wide. (Illus. 6) Start at

back seam of hat and fit fringe strip

of felt around hat to underside. Baste and stitch felt strip to hat.

Cut two strips of felt 1" x 3".

Fringe each side of these strips of

felt 3/8" deep. (Illus. 7)

Page 90: How to Make Hats

Gather down center of each strip

and sew into a little felt pom pom. Pin

each rounded flap in front to back seam, mark, and sew together with

pom pom (Illus. 8).

Pattern for Fringed Felt Casual Hat

Fringed Felt Bag

FRINGED FELT BAG PATTERN TO MATCH FRINGED CASUAL HAT

Use pattern on page 75 for bag. Place pattern marked No. 1 on a fold of paper and

cut pattern double. Use pattern marked No.

2 single. Place pattern No. 1 on felt and mark

around pattern on felt and cut out two pieces. Place pattern marked No. 2 on felt, mark

around pattern on felt and cut out two pieces. Cut

three strips of felt 1" x 27" and fringe on side of felt strip 1/2"

Page 91: How to Make Hats

deep (refer to hat Illus. 5 and 7). Cut one strip of felt 1/4" x 18"

for loops on bag. Cut two strips of felt 1/2" x 18" for draw

strings to run through loops on bag.

ASSEMBLING BAG

Slip felt fringed strip

between No. 1 felt pieces

extending fringed edge and baste both pieces

together (Illus. 1).

Cut strip of felt for

loops into 2" pieces, fold

double and baste two inches apart around top of bag (Illus. 2).

Baste and stitch fringed strips of felt all

around both pieces marked No. 2 and stitch,

then baste one on each side of bag at top

over loops, sewing through loops, and stitch (Illus. 3).

Pull one draw string

strip of felt through loops from one side and

back. Pull second draw string of felt through loops and back on opposite side.

Finish ends of draw strings with small

fringed tassels (Illus. 4).

Pattern for Fringed Felt Bag

Page 92: How to Make Hats

Felt Pattern hat a Three-Piece Crown and Felt Brim

MATERIAL REQUIRED

• Use a large 14"x 16" fur felt hood

• Pattern on page 78-79

• 3/4 of a yard of headband ribbon

Place crown pattern pieces on a fold of paper, trace

and cut pattern double.

When making three-piece crown of fur felt, a crinoline foundation is not required.

Trace and cut each piece of brim pattern

CUTTING AND SEWING CROWN

Wrap felt hood in a damp towel for several hours before blocking.

(Illus. 1) Cut felt open on one side from bottom to top, and lay felt out flat on a pressing

board and cover felt with a damp cloth. Steam press felt,,

stretching felt as you steam press. Place all pieces of

pattern on felt before marking. Mark around pattern (using

tailor's chalk), cut out felt on this line.

(Illus. 2) Join

ends of No. 2 piece

of felt, stitch and

steam press seam open (Illus. 3).

Page 93: How to Make Hats

(Illus. 4) Sew each side of seam

by hand, using pick stitches close to

seam.

(Illus. 5)

Match notches and join No. 2 and No. 1 pieces of felt, stitch (Illus. 6) and

steam press seam open. Sew each side of seam down by

hand, using pick stitches close to

seam.

(Illus. 7) Join ends of No. 3 piece of felt, stitch and steam press seam

open (Illus. 3). Sew each side of seam

by hand using pick stitches close to

seam (Illus. 4). Match notches and join No. 2 and No. 3

pieces of felt, stitch and steam press seam open (Illus. 3). Sew each side of seam by hand using pick stitches close to

seam (Illus. 4).

STEAMING AND FITTING CROWN

Put felt crown on utility head

block wrong side out. Steam and pull

felt down to fit block, and pin crown to

block. (Illus. 8) Measure your head from back to front and from side to

side the depth felt crown is to be and

mark these

measurements on

felt. Draw a line

around block on

felt (Illus. 9). When

crown is dry

Page 94: How to Make Hats

remove crown and trim off excess felt on crown 1/2" below

line (Illus. 10).

This crown can be used with many different styled brims.

BRIM FOR THREE PIECE CROWN

Lay each piece of brim pattern on felt and mark around pattern (using tailor's chalk) on felt and cut out on

line. Sew brim pieces together, back and front, using a

furring stitch. Press front and back of brim flat with a

steam iron or damp cloth and iron.

WIRING BRIM

Measure a wire to fit edge of brim and join wire with a wire joiner. Turn felt on edge over wire 1/4" with joiner

in back. Baste around edge of brim. Sew down using an

overcast stitch.

SEWING CROWN AND BRIM TOGETHER

Match front markings on brim and crown, pin together. Sew together. Turn seam around headsize up

and slip hat on Utility block and steam and pin to block

and let dry.

Finish headsize with a swirled headband.

Instructions on page 45.

Three-Piece Crown and Brim Pattern

Page 95: How to Make Hats

Felt Pattern Hat MATERIAL REQUIRED

• one 16" fur felt hood

• 3/4 yd. headband ribbon.

• Pattern on Page 81

CUTTING

Wrap felt in a damp cloth for several hours. Cut

felt hood up one side to extreme tip.

Lay felt flat on board, steam and

pull into a flat piece. Pin pattern pieces

on felt; mark around pattern on felt with tailor's chalk, cut out felt on this line, (Illus. 1).

SEWING

Match notches on No. 1 and No. 3 and baste

together, making a 1/4"

seam, stitch. Steam press

seam open, and remove bastings, (Illus. 2).

Match notches

and baste to No. 2. Stitch and steam

press seam open,

(Illus. 3). Use a small pad

underneath felt when pressing this

Page 96: How to Make Hats

seam open, (Illus. 4). Finish headsize with a blocked

headband. Instructions for blocked headband on page 46.

Pattern for Felt Hat

BERETS

THIS VERSATILE HAT IS USED FROM SEASON TO SEASON IN SOME FORM.

MATERIALS USED TO MAKE A BERET ARE

UNLIMITED. ALWAYS BECOMING AND A

STYLE FOR ALL AGES.

SEVERAL DIFFERENT PATTERNS FOR

BERETS AND DIRECTIONS TO MAKE THEM ARE GIVEN ON FOLLOWING PAGES.

Page 97: How to Make Hats

Beaded Velvet Beret

• Use beret pattern, page 85

• Beret beading pattern.

MATERIAL REQUIRED

• 3/4 yard of rayon velvet. Millinery velvet, taffeta, faille or felt may also be used for beaded berets.

• 3/4 yard of crinoline. If beret is to be made of felt, the crinoline is not required.

• 1 sheet of sheet wadding.

• Small piece of silk elastic net.

MARKING AND CUTTING Place pattern on crinoline.

Using tailor's chalk or pencil, mark around pattern on

crinoline and cut out. (Illus. 1)

Pin and baste crinoline to sheet

wadding and cut out.

(Illus. 2) Place sheet wadding and crinoline on wrong

side of velvet with sheet

wadding next to the velvet.

Baste sheet wadding and

crinoline to the velvet and cut out.

SEWING

(Illus. 3) Sewing through all three pieces (velvet, crinoline

and sheet wadding), baste dart

in top of beret. Stitch dart and

steam seam

open. (Illus. 4) Baste seam in

Page 98: How to Make Hats

back of bottom part of beret. Stitch and steam seam

open. Match markings.

Place right sides of top and bottom of beret together and

baste around edge (Illus. 5),

stitch. Turn beret right side out

and steam seam around brim

edge until smooth and

even.

(Illus. 6) Bead beret

before lining.

BEADING

Trace beading pattern on tissue paper and cut out. Pin plain edge of

pattern on edge of beret with design edge pointing

toward the center and starting in back. If beret is

cut and seamed exactly like pattern, twelve designs fit around brim. Pin design pattern on top edge of

beret and baste around design.

Baste design on underside of beret to correspond with top. Sew any kind of beads desired

on beret, following design basting threads.

LINING

Lay same beret pattern on taffeta, mark around

pattern and cut out. Seam dart in top part of beret and stitch seam in bottom part. Place right sides of

top and bottom together and stitch around edge.

Slip lining

into beret

and baste to headsize.

FINISHING

(Illus. 7) Finish headsize

Page 99: How to Make Hats

with a ribbon headband. Do not swirl ribbon.

Dampen ribbon slightly and place beret on block

until ribbon headband dries.

Instructions for beret headband page 46.

Beaded Beret Pattern

Half of pattern. Trace and join section 2

to section 4.

Facing pattern.

Trace section 1 and 2 and

join.

Beaded Velvet Bag to Match Beret

MARKING AND CUTTING

Lay bag pattern on crinoline and mark

around pattern on crinoline. Make three

sections like pattern. Pin crinoline pieces to sheet wadding and cut out. Lay sheet

wadding and crinoline on wrong side of velvet, with sheet

wadding next to the velvet. (Illus. 1) Baste sheet wadding and

crinoline to the velvet and cut out.

(Illus. 2) Cut three pieces of bag beading pattern out of elastic net. Lap each

piece and join, making three circles of elastic

Page 100: How to Make Hats

net. Cut a strip of elastic net 2" wide and 15" long.

SEWING (Illus. 3) Baste two side seams together

and stitch.

(Illus. 4) Then stitch

third side up 2" from bottom.

(Illus. 5) Baste

bottom seams together

and stitch. Steam press

seams open.

BEADING

(Illus. 6) Cover outside of elastic net circles

with velvet and bead around

circles, making four rows of

beads.

Slip these circles over corner of bag and

sew down to bag (Illus. 7).

HANDLE

(Illus. 8) Cover both

sides of 15" strip of elastic

net with velvet and insert at top opening of

bag and sew to bag firmly.

ZIPPER

(Illus. 9) Insert a 6" zipper in opening in third

side of bag.

LINING

Using bag pattern, cut lining in three

pieces. Sew two side seams of lining and

stitch third side up 2" from bottom. Place lining in bag.

Page 101: How to Make Hats

(Illus. 10) Turn lining in along opening

and hem around zipper.

Pattern for Beaded Velvet Bag

Wool Felt Beret

MATERIAL REQUIRED

• Use Beret Pattern on page 85

• 1/2 yard of felt is required to make the beret

• 3/4 yard of grosgrain ribbon for headband

CUTTING PATTERN AND MATERIAL

Page 102: How to Make Hats

(Illus. 1) Place pattern on a fold

of paper and cut out. Cut two of these

patterns, and on one pattern cut out headsize as

marked on pattern.

(Illus. 2) Mark back and front of

pattern.

(Illus. (3 and 3a) Place pattern

on felt and mark

around felt with

tailor's chalk and

cut out.

SEWING BERET TOGETHER

(Illus. 4) Baste dart in top of Beret, stitch and press seam open.

(Illus. 4a) Baste seam in facing brim of Beret and stitch (Illus.

5) and press seam open (Illus. 6).

(Illus. 7) Place right sides of top

brim and facing brim of Beret

together. Baste around

brim edge, (Illus.

8) stitch and

remove basting threads. Turn

Beret to right side. (Illus. 9) Slip

a piece of paper rope large enough to

fit around edge of beret brim inside

Beret and hold over steam,

Page 103: How to Make Hats

manipulating edge of beret with fingers until edge around

brim is smooth and even. Instructions for Beret headband

page 46.

BERET WITH A BAND

Follow above instructions for Beret except headband finish. (Illus.

10) Cut a felt band double the width

you want band to be and your

headsize length. Join ends of band

together with a furring stitch.

Fold band

lengthwise and steam press (Illus.

11).

Fold band again into quarters

(Illus. 12) and

mark. Fold Beret

headsize into

quarters and mark. Have seams on band and seam

on Beret together, match markings

on band and Beret headsize, pin

together and stitch (Illus. 13).

Pattern for Small Beret

Page 104: How to Make Hats

Stitched Beret and Matching Bag

MATERIAL REQUIRED FOR BERET AND BAG

• 1 yard of foundation felt

• 1 yard of fabric

• 6 spools of cotton thread for stitching

• 3/4 yard of ribbon for headband

• Use Beret pattern page 85.

FOUNDATION FOR BERET

Felt must be shrunk before using. This is done by placing a damp cloth

over the felt and ironing (Illus. 1). Do

this on both sides of felt, then remove

cloth and iron felt dry. Be careful not to stretch the felt.

(Illus. 2) Pin pattern on

foundation felt. Using tailor's chalk,

mark around entire pattern, including

headsize. Mark back seam, notches and darts on felt. Cut out (except

headsize) allowing 1/2" for seams.

CUTTING BERET

Place foundation felt on wrong

side of beret fabric on the bias (back

to front). Place foundation felt pattern,

with pencil lines up, on wrong side of

Page 105: How to Make Hats

beret fabric on the bias (back to front). (Illus. 3) Baste felt

foundation to fabric on the line around outer brim,

headsize and all openings. Mark all notches. Cut out fabric.

STITCHING

(Illus. 4) Machine stitch design on felt side of top and bottom pieces as

follows:

(Illus. 5)

divide top and

(Illus. 6) bottom

pieces into quarters, stitch from brim edge to center. Fill in each quarter section with rows of even stitching, including

headsize. Machine foot is a good measure for distances

between rows of stitching. Press on felt side using a damp

cloth.

ASSEMBLING BRIMS

(Illus. 7) Baste and stitch center

back seams and darts. Trim and press seams open. Clip darts to point. Match

notches on brim edges, baste and

stitch brims together. Be sure this seam is stitched evenly.

Trim off each seam separately 1/8" from stitching. Cut out

around headsize 1" inside line. Turn beret right side out. Place a round pressing pad inside beret and steam press

seam around brim edge. Steam headsize, pulling and

stretching material to fit your correct headsize Utility

Block. More material may have to be cut around head-

size. Be careful not to cut out too much, however, since felt will stretch.

HEADBAND

Page 106: How to Make Hats

Refer to page 46 for Beret headband.

Stitched Bag to Match Beret

Use 3-cornered bag pattern, page 88.

CUTTING BAG

Place pattern on foundation felt and cut out

three identical sections. Baste these three felt sections to wrong

side of material and cut out.

STITCHING

(Illus. 8) Machine stitch each section on felt side from outer edge to center. Fill in

each section with rows of even stitching the

same distance apart as stitching on beret.

Steam press each section.

(Illus. 9) Sew the three sections together, stitching two seams from top to

bottom. Stitch the third side up from bottom

for 1/2" and down from top for 1/2". Insert a

zipper in this side opening . Stitch three

seams together to form bottom of bag and turn bag inside out. Steam and press all

seams open.

BAG HANDLE

(Illus. 10] Cut a strip of

material 4" wide and 15" long for

handle. Fold strip together

lengthwise on wrong side and stitch. Pull fold through to right side. Fold strip in half and pin

ends in opening at top of bag. Turn top of bag in 1/4" and sew

securely around handle by hand.

Page 107: How to Make Hats

LINING

Cut lining and assemble exactly like outside of bag. Press

and slip into bag. Turn edges of lining under around zipper and

slip stitch.

Beret Made of Wool Material

BERET MADE OF WOOL MATERIAL

Use pattern on page 91

Place pattern on a fold of paper and cut pattern double.

Cut two brim patterns, one a solid pattern for top beret brim, and one brim pattern for facing, with headsize cut out on

correct headsize line, marked on pattern, either small, medium

or large.

Place headband pattern on a fold of paper and cut length of headband to correspond with beret pattern headsize.

Mark back and front of pattern on brims and on band.

MATERIAL REQUIRED

• 1/3 yard of foundation felt. Shrink felt before using.

• 1/3 of a yard of silk lining

• 1/3 yard of wool material

• 3/4 of a yard of headsize ribbon

• Strip of buckram 1" x 24"

CUTTING MATERIALS

Page 108: How to Make Hats

(Illus. 1) Place brim pattern on

foundation felt, mark around pattern

on felt and cut out felt.

(Illus. 2)

Baste felt brims to

material and cut

out material. (Illus. 3) Place brim patterns on

lining material and cut out lining.

Place headband pattern on material and cut out material.

SEWING BERET TOGETHER

(Illus. 4) Pin brims together on

wrong side and baste a 1/4" seam

around brim edge and stitch.

Turn Beret to right side. Use a paper rope pad to fit inside beret brim edge.

Steam edge of beret thoroughly over this paper pad, remove paper pad when beret is dry.

Baste lining brim pieces together and slip into Beret and baste together around headsize.

(Illus. 5) Join ends of headband

together. Stitch and press seam open.

Fold lengthwise and press. Baste over buckram strip.

Measure headband into quarters and mark. Measure

Beret headsize into quarters and mark.

Pin seam on band to back of Beret.

Match marking on band with markings on Beret headsize, pin and baste to Beret.

Finish headsize with a headband.

Page 109: How to Make Hats

See instructions for Beret headband on page 46.

Beret Made of Wool Material

BERET MADE OF WOOL MATERIAL

Use pattern on page 91

Place pattern on a fold of paper and cut pattern double.

Cut two brim patterns, one a solid pattern for top beret brim, and one brim pattern for facing, with headsize cut out on

correct headsize line, marked on pattern, either small, medium

or large.

Place headband pattern on a fold of paper and cut length of headband to correspond with beret pattern headsize.

Mark back and front of pattern on brims and on band.

MATERIAL REQUIRED

• 1/3 yard of foundation felt. Shrink felt before using.

• 1/3 of a yard of silk lining

• 1/3 yard of wool material

• 3/4 of a yard of headsize ribbon

• Strip of buckram 1" x 24"

CUTTING MATERIALS

(Illus. 1) Place brim pattern on

foundation felt, mark around pattern

on felt and cut out felt.

Page 110: How to Make Hats

(Illus. 2) Baste felt brims to

material and cut

out material. (Illus. 3) Place

brim patterns on

lining material and cut out lining.

Place headband pattern on material and cut out material.

SEWING BERET TOGETHER

(Illus. 4) Pin brims together on wrong side and baste a 1/4" seam

around brim edge and stitch.

Turn Beret to right side. Use a paper rope pad to fit inside beret brim edge.

Steam edge of beret thoroughly over this paper pad, remove paper pad when beret is dry.

Baste lining brim pieces together and slip into Beret and baste together around headsize.

(Illus. 5) Join ends of headband

together. Stitch and press seam open.

Fold lengthwise and press. Baste over

buckram strip.

Measure headband into quarters and mark. Measure

Beret headsize into quarters and mark.

Pin seam on band to back of Beret.

Match marking on band with markings on Beret headsize, pin and baste to Beret.

Finish headsize with a headband.

See instructions for Beret headband on page 46.

Page 111: How to Make Hats

Child's Beret of Felt

MATERIAL REQUIRED

• Use pattern for child's Beret

• Place pattern on fold of paper and cut both pieces double.

• 1/3 of a yard of felt.

MARKING AND CUTTING FELT

(Illus. 1) Place pattern

on felt and mark around

pattern on felt with tailor's chalk. Notch material to match notches on pattern.

No. 1 piece of pattern cut out two of felt.

No. 2 piece of pattern cut out one of felt.

BERET SIDE CROWN

(Illus. 2) Match notches and

baste No. 1 pieces together. Stitch

seam open and press seam open.

Baste on each side of seam and stitch flat.

SEWING SIDE CROWN TO TOP

Match notches and baste No. 1 and No. 2 pieces

together. Stitch and press seam open. Baste each side of seam open and stitch seam flat.

CUTTING AND SEWING BAND

Cut a strip of felt 1 1/4" wide and 1" longer than your head measurement. Join seam making a 1/2" seam. Stitch

and press seam open. Divide felt strip into quarters and

Page 112: How to Make Hats

mark. Divide Beret headsize into quarters and mark. Pin

felt strip (with seam in back) to headsize. Match markings,

baste together and stitch. Turn balance of strip under and stitch.

Pattern for Child's Beret

Sectional Beret

REQUIREMENTS

• 1/4 yard of material

• 1/4 yard lining

• 1/4 yard unsized elastic net

• 3/4 yard ribbon headband

CUTTING BERET SECTIONS

Trace and cut out pattern sections. Mark and number each section, exactly like pattern in book.

Page 113: How to Make Hats

(Illus. 1) Lay pattern sections

on unsized elastic net, draw a line

around pattern sections on net, also mark net exactly as pattern is

marked. Baste each section of

elastic net on wrong side of material, and cut out material.

Cut out ten sections of lining.

JOINING BERET

(Illus. 2) Join No. 10 section and

No. 1 section, seam sides marked F

together, making a

1/4" seam. (Illus. 3)

Stitch and press

seam open.

(Illus. 4)

Continue adding sections according

to numbers, joining

No. 2 to No. 1 until

all sections have been sewn together and seams steamed open. Stitch each section and press seam open before

adding next section. Join, baste and stitch lining in same

order as above. Press lining. Place in hat with seams

facing elastic net.

FINISHING HEADSIZE

(Illus. 5) Turn bottom around

headsize up 1/4", slip on Utility head

block and steam around headsize patting material around headsize.

Allow to dry on block. Finish inside

headsize with a swirled headband

ribbon.

Page 114: How to Make Hats

Pattern for Sectional Beret

100,

101,

102�Pattern for Sectional Beret

Stitched Casual Hat and Bag

MATERIAL REQUIRED

• 3/4 yard of fabric

• 1 yard of foundation felt

• 1/4 yard of lining

• Ribbon headband

• 3 spools of thread for stitching

Page 115: How to Make Hats

STITCHED CASUAL HAT AND BAG

Four piece crown pattern on page 113 can be used instead of six piece crown if desired. Any material can be

used to make this hat and bag; wool, silk, velvet or cotton

material. Shrink foundation felt before using.

CUTTING CASUAL HAT CROWN

Lay pattern for crown sections on felt. Draw a line around pattern on felt and cut out six sections. Lay these

felt sections on fabric as pattern indicates. Baste around

each section and cut out fabric.

STITCHING CROWN

(Illus. 1) Start rows of stitching at

bottom of each section. Stitch to top of

section and then down to bottom of

section again, continue stitching row

after row until section is entirely filled with stitching. Use machine foot to gage distance between

rows of stitching. Fill each section with stitching before

joining together.

(Illus. 2) Baste each section of

crown together starting at top and basting down. Then stitch on machine

and trim seams close on each section.

BLOCKING CROWN

Pull crown on correct headsize block wrong side out. Steam press

seams open then steam crown

smoothing out wrinkles and pulling

Page 116: How to Make Hats

crown down to fit block. Pin to block around bottom of

crown. Let dry on block. (Illus. 3) Measure and mark depth

and width crown is to be and run a basting thread around crown on these marks.

Mark back and front of

crown. Increase or decrease

brim pattern at back seam and

lay brim pattern on felt. Mark around pattern on felt allowing

1/2" for seams and cut out felt. Lay felt on wrong side of

fabric on the bias and baste felt and fabric together and

cut out. Now lay fabric side of brim on right side of

material on the bias, baste together (Illus. 4) and cut out.

STITCHING BRIM

(Illus. 5) Stitch all three pieces

together around brim edge on

machine. Trim seam and remove basting.

(Illus. 6) Open brim and join

together in back, seaming top side of

felt and fabric and facing side of fabrics together in one continuous

seam.

(Illus. 7) Turn facing fabric over

felt side of brim and baste around brim

edge. Steam press brim. Stitch, starting 1/4" from edge of brim for

first row of stitching and continue

stitching row after row (Illus. 8) until headsize line is

reached. Mark front of brim.

ASSEMBLING CROWN AND BRIM

Page 117: How to Make Hats

(Illus. 9) Have crown on block

and slip brim over crown. Match

markings on crown and brim and pin brim to crown on basting line around

crown. Make any adjustments

necessary before stitching crown and

brim together.

(Illus. 10) Trim off excess

material inside headsize.

LINING AND HEADBAND

Cut six crown sections of lining, join and stitch sections together. Steam press lining on block and slip

inside crown and baste around headsize. Finish headsize

with a swirled headband.

Pattern for Stitched Casual Hat

Page 118: How to Make Hats

Stitched Bag to Match Casual Hat

STITCHED BAG TO MATCH CASUAL HAT

Lay pattern on toundation felt. Mark

around pattern and mark notches on felt.

Cut out felt and baste felt pieces to fabric allowing 1/2". Cut out fabric. (Illus. 1) Stitch each piece on felt side using width of

machine foot as distance between rows of stitching. Start on

outer edge of each piece and stitch row after row until center of

each piece is reached. Steam press pieces.

ASSEMBLING EACH PIECE

Match notches on side pieces with center piece, baste and stitch together. Turn edge of fabric on handle and bag flap over

and hem to felt.

LINING BAG

(Illus. 2) Cut a lining like pattern. Baste

and stitch together. Press and slip lining into

bag. Baste lining around handle, flap and plain side of bag top.

(Illus. 3) Sew button

to bag and loop to flap

for bag closing.

Page 119: How to Make Hats

Pattern for Stitched Bag to Match Casual Hat

107, 108, 109, 110�Stitched Bag to Match

Casual Hat

.

Ribbon Hat and Bag

CASUAL RIBBON HAT AND BAG

Use ribbon hat pattern on page

114 Use ribbon bag pattern on page 116

MATERIAL REQUIRED

• 3 bolts of 1" ribbon

• 1 yard of crinoline

CROWN

Cut six sections of crinoline from crown pattern.

Page 120: How to Make Hats

(Illus. 1) Baste ribbon flat on

crinoline, slightly

lapping each row. (Illus. 2) Cut

off each row of

ribbon even with crinoline. Stitch

each row of ribbon

to crinoline. (Illus. 3) Join

each section with a 1/4" seam. Be

sure points of sections meet evenly on

top of crown.

(Illus. 4) Place crown wrong

side out on utility

block and press seams open (Illus. 5).

(Illus. 6) Turn crown right side out,

place an utility block. Steam and pull crown down to fit block, pinning to block

around the bottom. Let dry on block.

Mark back and front of crown.

BRIM

Cut two brim sections of crinoline

from brim pattern.

(Illus. 7) Starting in back, baste

ribbon to crinoline from brim edge to

headsize, slightly lapping each row. Increase lapping each row of ribbon at

headsize to fit crinoline. Join brim in

back with a narrow seam. Press seam

Page 121: How to Make Hats

open. Mark back and front of brim. Make facing in the

same way.

(Illus. 8) Baste top and bottom brims together on wrong side and

stitch. Turn brim right side out and

press. Place brim on utility block.

Match markings on crown and brim

and pin together. Baste brim to crown, then stitch

around headsize (Illus. 9).

LINING

Using thin silk, follow same pattern for lining. Stitch sections together. Steam on block

and let dry. (See illustrations 3 and 4.) Remove lining

from block and slip into ribbon crown. Baste around headsize. Finish headsize with a

swirled headband.

TRIMMING

(Illus. 10) Trim with flat tailored

bows on either side of crown. This hat

can be folded for traveling convenience.

Pattern for Ribbon Hat

Page 122: How to Make Hats

Ribbon Bag to Match Hat

CUTTING AND SEWING

Cut four sections of crinoline. Baste ribbon to each piece of crinoline, lapping

each row slightly. Trim ribbon to fit crinoline.

Stitch each row of ribbon flat on crinoline.

(Illus. 1) Baste four sections together, then

stitch, making a 1/4" seam. Press seams open.

LINING

Follow same pattern for lining. Stitch four sections together. Slip lining over bag

and turn bag right side out. (Illus. 2) Baste

lining to ribbon around top of bag.

FINISHING TOP OF BAG

(Illus. 3) Baste two rows of ribbon

around top inside of bag. Baste first row on

inside over lining edge, then baste another row around the top of

that row.

(Illus. 4) Add two

rows of ribbon on outside

of bag around top. Starting in center of one section, turn end of ribbon under

and baste one row to center of opposite

section. Cut ribbon off and turn under.

Page 123: How to Make Hats

Take another length of ribbon, turn end under and starting

where first ribbon left off baste second ribbon to opposite

section. Cut ribbon off and turn under. Baste another row of ribbon around top of one piece. Stitch each row of ribbon flat.

DRAW STRINGS

(Illus. 5) Fold two 30" lengths of ribbon

in half and stitch flat. Draw one piece

through opening in ribbon, around bag and

out through

same opening. (Illus. 6)

Draw the other

piece of ribbon through opposite opening,

around bag and out through same opening. Finish ends of ribbon

strips and join strips together.

Ribbon Bag Pattern

Page 124: How to Make Hats

Flowered Hat

DESCRIPTION

Hats made entirely of flowers may be made on buckram frames, wire frames or on

nylon foundations. Small flowers are used

when the entire hat is to be made of flowers

although turbans or very small hats are sometimes made of larger flowers. Bunches of

flowers are taken apart and each flower is sewn or tacked to the

hat separately. When making an entire hat of flowers, remember

not to use too large a frame or the hat will be top heavy.

FLOWERED HAT MADE ON BUCKRAM

Cover buckram frame with thin taffeta

in the same color as the flowers. Pin flowers

to frame just close enough together to cover

foundation. Sew flowers to frame by tacking in center of flower. If petals need to be sewn

to frame, tack edge of petal only. Avoid

sewing flowers on too tightly. If buckram

frame has a brim, plain taffeta facing on underside of brim is

pretty and may be done after all the flowers have been sewn on crown and top of brim.

FLOWERED HAT MADE ON WIRE FRAME

First cover wire

frame with sized georgette. Tack flowers

to georgette in the same

manner as above. In this

kind of hat, flowers are also sewn to facing on underside of brim.

Page 125: How to Make Hats

FLOWERED HAT MADE ON NYLON FOUNDATION

Arrange and pin flowers on foundation. Bind edge of

foundation.

Helmet

HELMET

The following instructions apply to both helmet patterns. Any kind of material may be used. Wool,

tweed, satin, taffeta and pique are most

satisfactory.

Trace pattern and lay on fold of paper and cut double.

MATERIAL REQUIRED

• 3/8 yard of material for outside of helmet

• 3/8 yard of crinoline for foundation

• 3/8 yard of sized georgette for lining

CUTTING AND SEWING

Lay pattern on sized georgette

and cut out. Mark and notch each piece of material like pattern. (Illus.

1) Match notches and baste pieces

together, making a 1/4" seam. Stitch

seam on machine. Place on correct

headsize block, with seams on outside. Pull material down

until smooth, and pin to block

around the bottom.

Page 126: How to Make Hats

(Illus. 2) Press thoroughly with a

steam iron and let dry on block. To

remove from block, slip a corset stay between block and material and

carefully loosen material from block.

Cut, sew and block crinoline foundation in the same manner. Now

cut out material for outside of helmet.

Match notches and baste pieces

together, making a 1/4" seam. Stitch seam on machine.

(Illus. 3) Turn each side of seam

flat and baste down, then stitch down

each side of seam. Block as above,

being sure to smooth out all wrinkles, and let dry on block.

ASSEMBLING HELMET

Place georgette lining on block with seams on outside. Place crinoline foundation on block over

georgette. Now put outside material on block, over the

crinoline, with seams on the inside.

(Illus. 4) Pin through all three

pieces to block and

steam again.

Turn under,

baste edges around bottom of helmet and

steam. (Illus. 5)

When dry,

remove from block and slip stitch edge around bottom of helmet

(Illus. 6)

Page 127: How to Make Hats

Pattern for Helmet

Calot�Open or Closed Crown

CALOT�OPEN OR CLOSED CROWN

This calot may be made of any

material, fur or felt, pique, taffeta, velvet, wool, cotton, etc.

MATERIAL REQUIRED

• 3/8 yard of material for outside of calot

• 3/8 yard of crinoline for foundation

• 3/8 yard of lining material

• 3/4 yard of ribbon for headband

FOUNDATION

Lay pattern on crinoline. Mark around pattern on crinoline and cut out.

(Illus. 1) Baste seams together as

indicated on pattern, then stitch.

Page 128: How to Make Hats

When making open crown calot, turn edge under around

opening and baste flat. If crown is closed, cut crinoline

circle like pattern circle. Baste circle on calot and stitch.

(Illus. 2) Pull this crinoline

foundation on correct headsize block.

Steam foundation, pulling and pinning

it down to fit block.

COVERING FOUNDATION

Lay calot pattern on fabric

for covering. Mark around pattern on

fabric and cut out. Baste and stitch like foundation. Place on block

wrong side out and steam press all seams open. Remove

from block, turn right side out and slip covering over

foundation. Pin crinoline foundation and fabric foundation

together. Turn edge around face under and hem to underside. (Illus. 3) Steam this edge.

LINING

Cut lining from same pattern and sew together as

described above. Place lining on block and steam press.

Remove from block and slip lining inside calot. Turn lining edges under and slip stitch around edge.

FELT CALOT MADE FROM THIS PATTERN

Use a small felt hood. Wrap felt

hood in a damp cloth for several hours

before blocking. Pull felt hood over block and steam until soft and pliable,

pulling felt down to fit block. Pin felt to

block around the bottom and let dry

on block. Cut a crinoline foundation from pattern as explained. Sew and block foundation as above. When felt

Page 129: How to Make Hats

is dry, slip blocked crinoline foundation over felt on block

and mark around crinoline on felt with tailor's chalk. (Illus.

4) Remove felt from block and cut off excess felt on this line. Turn edge under 1/2" around face and hem to under

side. Block a headband ribbon and sew around inside

headsize.

Brim pattern for Felt Calot

Cut open bottom of felt hood and press flat. Place brim pattern on felt. Mark around pattern with tailor's

chalk and cut out. Using the same pattern, cut out two

more identical sections (three brim sections in all). Bind

each section with No. 3 grosgrain ribbon (instructions for

ribbon binding on page 59). Adjust and pin each section around crown as pictured and sew.

Pattern for Calot

Page 130: How to Make Hats

Scalloped Calot

MATERIAL REQUIRED

• 3/8 yard any material

• 3/8 yard crinoline

• 3/8 yard sized honeycomb

• 1 yard bead trimming

CUTTING CALOT

Cut three large sections and three small sections of material, crinoline and honeycomb for lining.

SEWING

(Illus. 1) Lay material sections on

corresponding crinoline sections and

baste together. Join sections together

alternately�a large section and a small section�and stitch, making a

1/4" seam.

BLOCKING

Pull on headblock with material side

next to block. (Illus. 2) Steam press each

seam open and pin bottom edge of calot

to block. Allow to dry on block.

(Illus. 3) When

dry, remove from block

and baste 1/4" hem

around each scallop. Steam press hem.

LINING

Stitch lining sections together alternately as above. Pull lining over

block and steam press each seam

open. Pm bottom edge of lining to

Page 131: How to Make Hats

block and let dry on block. When dry, slip calot on block

over lining, matching scallops of calot and lining, and pin

together. Turn edge of lining under around scallops and slip stitch lining to bottom of calot. (Illus. 4) Pin pearl

trimming around edge of scallops and sew, using overcast

stitch.

Pattern for Scalloped Calot

Turbans

TURBANS

A Draped Turban can be made of almost any material that will drape into soft,folds and is

entirely dependent on the clever draping for style.

To drape a professional looking Turban requires

real skill to manipulate and design the material into a smart becoming hat. Gives the Designer an opportunity to express

creative ability. To make a draped Turban you start from the

Page 132: How to Make Hats

headband, then the foundation and then the Turban is draped

last. Material is draped and sewn to the foundation last.

MATERIAL REQUIRED

• 1 to 1 1/2 yards of material

• 1/2 yard of sized georgette

• 1/2 yard of crinoline

• 1 yard headband ribbon

• Utility headblock in the correct headsize

HOW TO MEASURE HEAD FOR FOUNDATION

Decide where turban is to be

worn on head. (Illus. 1) Start a tape measure at that point and measure

over the top of head to hollow at back

of head. Measure desired depth of

turban on head from side to side. Mark

back to front measurement and side to side measurement on block. Also mark eye line measurement on block. (Eye

line is any indentation around face line of turban.) To

measure eye line, start tape measure at top center of

head and measure to where indentation is desired and mark this measurement on block. Draw line around block

to mark these measurements.

HEADBAND

Use No. 5

grosgrain sawtooth ribbon. Wet ribbon

and squeeze dry

(Illus. 2). Start

ribbon in back of

block with bottom edge of ribbon on the line. Pull and stretch ribbon and pin

around block, turning ribbon over at eye line (Illus. 3) and

Page 133: How to Make Hats

continuing around block until ribbon meets in back. Turn

ribbon under at back.

FOUNDATION

Place sized georgette over block

on the bias (Illus. 4). (Run bias from back to front.) Steam, pull down and

pin georgette to ribbon headband. Sew

to center of headband all the way

around. Cut off excess georgette just

below sewing on headband. Repeat same process with a layer of crinoline over georgette.

Steam, block and pin crinoline to headband and sew. Cut

off excess crinoline and let foundation dry on block.

Cut a square 14" x 15" of material used to cover turban. Pin and block over foundation in the same manner

used to make foundation, sewing to headband and cutting

off excess material.

DRAPING TURBAN

(Illus. 5) Cut a bias piece of

material used to cover turban 12" x 36" for drape and baste to a bias piece

of georgette. Then use your own idea

pinning and draping bias material until desired effect is

accomplished. Tuck ends of drape under folds to finish and

tack on foundation. Steam each fold and slip stitch drape around bottom of drape to headband.

(Illus. 6) If a rolled edge around

turban is desired, use a piece of paper

rope inside bias strip and wrap bias

material around paper rope, crushing material as you twist it around. Taper off ends of paper

rope and tack to foundation, then tack roll to foundation.

Two colors used to drape turban roll is very effective. Cut

two bias strips of material and wrap around roll alternating

colors.

Page 134: How to Make Hats

Turban does not need another lining or headband.

>Fur Hats

FUR HATS

Fur hats can be made on a buckram frame or combined with felt. If the entire hat is to be made

of fur, be sure to choose a small or medium frame.

Fur has a tendency to make a hat bulky. If a larger hat is desired, combine fur and felt or velvet, or any other cloth

and fur combination. Use only short nap fur. Fluffy furs are

desirable only as trimming and even then use sparingly. To look

professional, fur hats require time and expert workmanship.

PERSIAN LAMB HAT

Follow directions on page 64 for

blocking felt crown. Trace pattern on page

129 for fur brim and fur ornament. Lay pattern on a fold of paper and cut pattern

double. Open pattern and lay flat on a piece

of elastic net (Illus. 1).

Mark around pattern on net and cut out elastic net on line marked. Slash elastic net

every 1/2" around

headsize (Illus. 2).

Whip stitch a strong

frame wire around edge of elastic net brim and stretch a 1/2" bias

strip of crinoline over wire and baste to

frame (Illus. 3). (Do not wire frame around

headsize.)

Page 135: How to Make Hats

MAKING FUR BRIM

(Illus. 4) Dampen pelt side of fur with a

sponge and stretch fur as much as possible

without tearing pelt. Tack fur down to a

board and let fur dry. Pin brim pattern on

pelt side of fur on board and draw a line around pattern on pelt.

(Illus. 5) Carefully run a sharp razor

blade through pelt on line marked and gently

pull fur pieces apart.

MAKING FUR BRIM

(Illus. 6) Sew silk

tape around fur brim edge, using an overcast

stitch.

Pin fur brim on top

side of frame turning

tape over edge of frame and sewing tape to frame

(Illus. 7).

Make fur brim facing

the same as top brim, binding fur edge

with tape. On the facing turn tape under and sew down on pelt.

(Illus. 8)

Pin facing of fur to

frame and slip stitch fur brim together (Illus. 9)

around brim edge.

ASSEMBLING FUR BRIM AND FELT CROWN

(Illus. 10) Mark center of fur brim and

center of felt crown. Slip fur brim under felt crown on block and pin crown and brim

Page 136: How to Make Hats

together. Sew crown and brim together taking small invisible

stitches on felt side.

FUR ORNAMENT FOR PERSIAN LAMB HAT

(Illus. 11) Trace ornament pattern and

cut out. Lay pattern on sized elastic net and

cut out.

Wire entire edge (Illus. 12) and bind edge

with crinoline.

(Illus. 13) Use

pattern to cut fur, cutting

fur in same manner as for brim.

Sew silk tape around

edge of fur (Illus. 14).

Sew one side of fur

to ornament foundation, sewing tape to foundation

(Illus.

15).

Sew

tape down on both sides of second piece of

fur (Illus. 16) and pin to other side of ornament.

Slip stitch both pieces of fur

together all around the edge of

ornament. Sew ornament as illustrated 17.

Page 137: How to Make Hats

Pattern for Fur Brim

Maline Pom Pom

DESCRIPTION

Maline Pom Pom can be made larger or smaller by adjusting the size of the circle pattern used to cut maline circles. Pattern

given in book for maline pom pom is an 8" circle and makes a

large maline pom pom.

MATERIAL REQUIRED TO MAKE MALINE POM POM

• Four yards of maline in one color

• Two yards of each color if two colors are used.

FOLDING AND CUTTING MALINE

(Illus. 1) Open maline to

full width and fold maline over

8" and continue folding maline

over and over every 8" until

entire piece of maline has been folded.

Page 138: How to Make Hats

(Illus. 2) Place circle

pattern on maline and cut

around circle pattern through all thicknesses of maline. Repeat

across width of folded maline,

cutting out maline circles

through all thicknesses until entire piece of folded maline

has been cut in circles.

FOLDING AND SEWING POM POM

(Illus. 3) Pin two maline circles together, fold circles in half and then

fold circles in quarters and pin. Repeat

until all maline circles have been

folded, and pinned.

(Illus. 4) Sew maline folded

circles together

(alternating a

closed side of folded maline

circle and an open side of folded maline circle) on point until all maline circles have been

sewn to Pom Pom.

USING TWO COLORS IN POM POM

(Illus. 5) Open each piece

of colored maline to full width,

and put both pieces of maline together.

(Illus. 6) Fold maline back and

forth every eight inches, instead of

over and over as when making Pom

Pom of one color maline.

Cut out maline circles the same as above.

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When folding maline circles, have one circle of each

color together, then fold and proceed as above.

Pattern for Maline Pom Pom

Hat Trimmings and their Applications

• HOW TO APPLY HAT TRIMMINGS

• MAKING HAT PINS

• SEVERAL DIFFERENT HAT TRIMMINGS

• MAKING RIBBON AND TAFFETA BOWS

• MAKING A MALINE POM POM

• MAKING A RIBBON COCARDE

• MAKING BUCKLES

• MAKING RIBBON HAT BANDS

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• MAKING RIBBON ORNAMENTS

Wedding Veils and Bridesmaids Hats

• FORMAL WEDDING VEILS

• INFORMAL WEDDING VEILS

• TIARAS

• BRIDESMAID HATS

How to Apply Trimmings

WINGS

To tack a wing on a hat as a trimming, sew wire on wing to hat. Then tack through wing underneath a feather on the wings,

tie threads on underside.

Always pin trimming on hat before sewing. Try hat on, make proper adjustments and then sew.

FLOWERS

Flowers are pinned on hat. Then try on hat, make

adjustments and sew stem of flower to hat. Tack under a petal of flower using a tie tack. To make an entire hat of flowers each

flower is sewn on separately usually in the center of flower.

Leaves are tacked on the very edge of leaf with the same color

green thread and a tie tack stitch is used.

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BEADS

Beads

are applied

to felts by

slipping the

needle through a layer of the felt, but not through

to other side of felt as

stitches must not show. Felt is very easily

beaded.

When beading a velvet hat cover side you are going to bead with velvet first then sew on beads. Then cover other side of hat

with velvet.

VEILS Usually

one yard of veiling is

required for

the average hat. However some veils

are very small and require only % of a yard.

Sometimes the veiling is too wide for a particular hat. In this event cut off some of the width of the veiling, using the side that

has been cut at the top of the hat, turning in the cut part and

sewing or tacking in place, on hat. If a small visor veil is used,

swirl veiling with a steam iron and let veil dry before sewing in

hat. Then cut off all excess veiling inside headsize, after veil has been sewn in hat.

To drape a veil on a

hat, pin center of veiling

to center of hat. Put hat

on Utility head block and drape and fold veiling

until desired effect is attained.

Gather ends of veiling, (cutting off any

excess) wind ends of veil with a thread and tuck ends of veiling under edge of crown or brim or under any fold, here use your

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own individuality. Ends of veiling may have narrow velvet ribbon

sewn on and veil tied at the back of hat.

BIRD CAGE VEIL

MATERIAL REQUIRED

• 3/4 yd. 18" veiling. Gather ends of veiling together,

starting 3" from each end at top of veil and slant shirring to other end of veil

(Illus. 1).

Bottom of veil

will be 27" and top

of veil will be 21". Gather top of veil to fit around front of crown and

adjust ends of veil on hat and tack

(Illus. 2).

Crush tissue

paper up under front of veil and pass through steam, pushing paper against

veil as you steam

(Illus. 3).

For a veil with

tab ends, use 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 yds. of veiling. After veil

is adjusted on hat, gather in ends of

veil and sew beads, buttons, or some

other trim to veil ends, lapping veil ends at back of hat

(Illus. 4).

Self Trimmings

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SELF TRIMMINGS

Trace pattern No. 1. Lay pattern on elastic net. Mark around

pattern and cut out elastic net foundation.

Lay pattern on a double piece of fabric. Mark around pattern on fabric and allow 1/2" and cut out

fabric.

(Illus. 1) Turn fabric over edge of

foundation and sew fabric down around edge

of foundation.

Baste fabric piece to

other side, turn in edge of fabric and slip stitch

around edge of foundation (Illus.

2).

(Illus. 3). Start 1/4"

from outer edge of ornament and machine

stitch row after row following outline of

ornament until entire ornament surface is

covered with rows of stitching. Steam press

ornament. To make this ornament of felt cut out two pieces of felt like pattern and glue

felt pieces together with Milliner's Glue.

Trace pattern No. 2 and lay pattern on

crinoline. Mark around pattern on crinoline

and cut out. (Illus. 4) Baste crinoline on wrong side of a double piece of fabric around

outer edge and stitch on

machine.

Pull ornament right side out and baste around edge of ornament

(Illus. 5) and stitch.

(Illus. 6) Stitch

center of ornament as

illustration.

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TO MAKE TUBING FOR CENTER OF ORNAMENT

Cut a bias strip of fabric 1" wide. Fold

strip lengthwise and stitch together down center of strip. Attach bodkin as Illustration 7 and pull cording to

right side. (Do not cut off seam in tubing as it acts as a padding

in tubing when pulled to right side.) Cut tubing into 2 1/4" strips.

Turn one end of tubing in with scissors and sew other end of

strip in center of ornament.

QUILL ORNAMENT

Use pattern No. 3.

Make Quill ornament, the same as No. 2.

(Illus. 9) Sew Quill Feeler in center of

ornament by pushing needle through side of

Quill Feeler and through center to other side of it, and into fabric as Illustration 9a.

Patterns for Self Trimmings

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Ribbon Ornaments

PLEATED RIBBON ORNAMENT

MATERIAL REQUIRED

• 1 1/2 to 2 yards of 1 1/2" grosgrain ribbon, depending on size of ornament. Any width ribbon may be used.

PLEATING RIBBON

(Illus. 1) Make a 1/4" pleat in

ribbon and sew in

lower corner.

(Illus. 2) Make

another pleat in ribbon and fold

pleat almost even

with first pleat and sew in lower

corner, sewing through all

thicknesses of ribbon. Repeat until you have enough ribbon pleated to make the size circle

you want.

(Illus. 3) Join ends of pleated

ribbon to form a

circle. (Illus. 4) Cut

two pieces of

ribbon on the bias and slip through

center of ribbon circle. Sew to back of ornament.

RIBBON BANDS FOR CASUAL HAT BRIMS

RIBBON BAND NO. 1

Use 1 1/2" yards of 1 1/2"

grosgrain ribbon for band. Fold ribbon

over 1" and tack on underside of fold

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(Illus. 5).

Turn each side of fold under on

right side of band, making a point in

center of each fold

(Illus. 6).

Sew point down (Illus. 7) with a large bead. Continue making ribbon folds 2" apart

around entire band (Illus. 8) turning each side of fold

under and sewing with a bead as described. Tack ribbon

band around crown of any casual hat.

RIBBON BAND NO. 2

Use two widths of ribbon for this band, and two colors

3/4" of a

yard of 1 1/2"

grosgrain

ribbon and

1 1/2 yards of 3/4" grosgrain ribbon in a contrasting color. (Illus. 9) Fold narrow ribbon

on a bias slant over wider ribbon and tack each fold to

wide ribbon band at top and bottom (Illus. 10).

Ribbon Bows

WIRING RIBBON FOR BOWS

Ribbon wire is used to wire ribbon, is available in black or

white. Use black for dark ribbons

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and white for light ribbons. For some bows the ribbon wire is

sewn in the center of the ribbon, on the wrong side (Illus. 1).

Use thread in same color as ribbon to sew wire.

Take a stitch through wire and

ribbon on the wrong side of ribbon

and a long stitch on underneath

side of ribbon, through ribbon wire (Illus. 2).

Ribbon is also wired on the edge of ribbon (Illus. 3), stitching ribbon wire down one

side of ribbon and turning ribbon over once to cover the wire

(Illus. 4).

WIRING TAFFETA BOWS

Cut (taffeta bought by the yard)

into strips as wide as you want bows

to be, allowing 1/2" on each side for hemming. Turn taffeta edge over

1/4" (Illus. 5)

then turn over again 1/4" (Illus.

6) and stitch on machine. Do this to

each side of taffeta

strips.

Run a fine piece of lace wire

through these grooves (Illus. 7)

then make bows.

LOOP BOWS

Divide amount of ribbon you are using in half and start with one

end, gather together and sew (Illus.

8).

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(Illus. 9) Loop ribbon under keeping

end on top.

(Illus. 10) Loop next loop under again and let

this end come from

underneath.

(Illus. 11) Cut a

small piece of ribbon and crush through and over

center to back of bow and sew.

BUTTERFLY BOW

Make three loops on each side making

one loop on one side

longer (Illus. 12).

After bow is completed and a soft

piece of ribbon crushed in

center of bow and sewn on back side of

bow (llus. 13).

Cut the center long loop

open on the bias

(Illus. 14).

TAILORED BOW

D

i

vide and mark ribbon for each

loop and end, lay flat and sew

having one on each side, like illustration 15 or several like Illustration 16. If you are having several loops on each side

graduate loops having first loop longest. However measure each

loop on each side of bow and mark

before starting.

Finish center of bow with a

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small piece of folded ribbon sewn on back side of bow (Illus. 17).

Ribbon Cocarde

RIBBON COCARDE

Use any width grosgrain ribbon to make Cocarde. 1 1/2 to 2 yards of ribbon is required to make ribbon

Cocarde, depending on size desired.

MAKING RIBBON COCARDE

(Illus. 1 and

2) Turn ribbon

down on each side to make a point, then fold ribbon in

center (Illus. 3), bringing these folded sides together, sew in

lower point.

Turn ribbon back and turn

side down making a point again, (Illus. 4 and 5)

and

folding in center bringing

folded sides together (Illus. 6)

and sew in lower

point (Illus. 7).

Repeat in

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this manner until you have enough folded ribbon points to make

the size Ribbon Cocarde you want (Illus. 8). Cut ribbon off and

join ends and sew together in lower corner.

Hat Pins

FRINGED FELT HAT PINS

For each hat pin cut a strip of felt 2" x 1 1/2". Slash one side of

felt strip very close together and

3/4" deep, making a fringed edge.

(Illus. 1) Wrap the other side of

felt strip around the head of a small hat pin, lap end over and sew felt flat. Also take a few stitches at bottom of fringed felt

and pull thread tight and fasten securely, forming a tassel of felt

on pin (Illus. 2).

LARGE ORNAMENTAL HAT PINS

(Illus. 3). Cut a piece of lining 2" x 2"

and fold lengthwise. Sew each side and

bottom together. Slip a hat pin through top opening, let pin protrude at bottom. Stuff

bag with cotton and sew top together. Cut

material for outside covering of hat pin

same as above, sew together, slip over hat

pin base (Illus. 4). Gather material around bottom of pin and sew securely. Bead these pins elaborately and

use for trimming.

SMALL MATCHING HAT PINS

Cut circles of lining, gather around bottom

and stuff circle with cotton (Illus. 5).

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Slip hat pin head in (Illus. 6) draw,

gather together, and fasten

(Illus. 7). Cut matching hat

material as above and slip

over hat pin base, gather

around pin and fasten securely

(Illus. 8).

FELT PINS

Cut felt in small circles, squares

or oblong shapes. Sew two pieces

same shape together 1/4" from edge

of felt (Illus. 10). Stuff center with cotton (Illus. 11) and slip

hat pin head between felt pieces.

Sew securely around pin (Illus.

12).

Wedding Veils

WEDDING VEILS

Bridal Illusion is a filmy net used for

wedding veils. A formal wedding veil requires

six yards of veiling to make veil. Finished formal wedding veil is about five yards long.

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An informal wedding veil requires three yards veiling and is

usually made fingertip length. Bridal Illusion is 108" wide and

requires one width in correct length to make veil.

Edges of veiling do not require a finish, however lace may

be used to finish edges if desired. Bridal Illusion is available in

white and egg shell.

TIARAS

Many beautiful Tiaras ready made may be purchased in the Millinery Supply Houses,

or you can make your own Tiaras.

Purchase a wire Tiara frame and wind the wires of frame with strips of net.

Cut a piece of net double and a few inches wider than frame measures.

Fold net double in length, measure a 1" heading and shirr net.

Pin shirring on brim wire with heading extended around edge of brim, having a piece of the net on both sides of frame.

Make a shirring in net at each wire on frame on both sides, and sew net to frame on these wires.

TO MAKE VEIL

Open veiling to full width. Fold one corner of veiling over one yard and make several rows of shirring on edge of fold. Pin

shirred veiling to back of Tiara frame and pull shirring threads to fit frame and tie. Sew veiling through shirring to Tiara on this

wire. Trim points on veiling round, at bottom and top of veil.

Bridesmaid Hats

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BRIDESMAID HATS

HORSEHAIR HAT

Horsehair hats are always attractive and may be had in many beautiful shades, and are very inexpensive.

To block a horsehair body follow directions for blocking rough straw bodies.

FLOWERED BAND

(Illus. 1) Purchase a metal clip in any

Millinery supply house. Wind metal clip with

1/2" grosgrain ribbon and

tack ribbon. Separate flowers

from a bunch and pin

around top of clip and sew (Illus. 2). Pin

and sew large bunches of flowers on either

side of clip. Clip will fit head securely.

HALF HATS

Half hats are very popular for bridesmaid hats and any material can be used to make this hat. Silk or velvet to match

dress can be used to make half hat, or it can be made of flowers

or tulle.

Instructions for half hat on page 38.

OPEN OR CLOSED CROWN CALOT

Calot is also a very popular hat for bridesmaids, is a very youthful hat and can be made of almost any material and has

endless possibilities.

Calot pattern on page 121.

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Fabric-Covered Buckles

FABRIC COVERED BUCKLES

Place buckle pattern on elastic net and draw around pattern on

net and cut out. (Illus. 1) Wire outer edge of

buckle foundation if a stiff buckle is desired, cover wire with a

bias crinoline strip. For a soft buckle do not wire foundation.

TO COVER BUCKLE FOUNDATION

Place pattern on a double piece of fabric, mark around pattern on fabric, allow 1/4" and cut out, on

outside edge only.

(Illus. 3) Turn fabric over edge of foundation and sew to other side of

foundation.

(Illus. 4) Slash fabric

in center openings of

buckle from side to side. Clip fabric in corners of

openings and turn fabric through to other

side of foundation and sew. Be sure

stitches do not come through to right side of buckle.

Baste fabric to other side of buckle,

turning in edges of fabric (Illus. 5) around

outer edge of buckle and

slip stitching. Slash center

openings and turn fabric

under and slip stitch

(Illus. 6).

TO MAKE A BUCKLE OF FELT

Place a buckle pattern on a piece

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of felt and mark around pattern on felt and cut out two pieces

alike. Glue buckle pieces together with Milliners glue.

Patterns for Buckles

Felt Bonnet

(This Hat can be made out of Felt or

Pique. Two sets of directions and material lists follow.)

FELT BONNET MATERIALS

• 3/8 yd. of Felt, 36" wide.

• Sawtooth grograin ribbon to match, 5/8" wide, 3/4 yd.

• 1 yd. of cording for ties.

• Needle and matching thread.

PIQUE BONNET MATERIALS

• Pique, 1/2 yd.

• Muslin, 3/8 yd.

• Crinolin, 3/8 yd.

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• Cording, 1 yd.

• Sawtooth headband ribbon

PATTERNS

These are given actual size. For every 1/2" decrease or increase of headsize, take off or add

1/4" on each side seam.

CUTTING DIRECTIONS FOR FELT

(1) Trace pattern�using smooth tissue paper�

place pattern, marked on fold, directly on fold of

paper and do not cut fold.

(2) Place pattern on material and cut out. Cut cording in two equal pieces.

CUTTING DIRECTIONS FOR PIQUE

(1) Lay crown pattern on pique and cut out.

(2) Lay crown pattern on crinoline and cut out.

(3) Lay crown pattern on muslin and cut out.

(4) Lay brim pattern on pique and cut out two brims of pique.

(5) Lay brim pattern on crinoline and cut out

one brim.

SEWING DIRECTIONS FOR FELT

(1) Fold each dart on back

section�match markings�baste

and stitch. Cut along fold of dart and press

open.

(2)

Place top edge of center

section to seam edge of back�right sides together.

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Edges even�baste and stitch seam

and press open.

(3) Turn brim edge in 3/8 in. baste and stitch.

Steam press.

(4) Clip in

along inner brim

edge edge every 1/2 inch. With

right sides together match center

fronts of brim and crown, baste

together and stitch.

(5) Pin headband ribbon�starting in center back. Pin

ribbon around head-size�

lapping end of ribbon. Stitch

close to edge of ribbon. Dampen ribbon and turn headband to

inside of headsize.

(6) Place cording

ends to each brim point as shown in

illustration. Stitch cord securely to points�turn other end of cord in with

scissor points. Tie cords as

illustrated.

SEWING DIRECTIONS FOR PIQUE

Baste crinoline crown pieces to wrong side of pique crown pieces then baste and stitch crown

pieces together.

Press seams open.

Lay pique brim pieces right

sides together, then lay crinoline brim on and baste.

Stitch brim around outer

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edge. Turn brim to right side, open corners and

insert cords, baste and stitch brim around outer

edge 1/8" from edge. Press.

Join crown to brim and stitch.

Stitch crown lining together and slip into crown. Sew lining around headsize and sew in headband

ribbon.

For blocking when complete, one method is to sew two shoulder pads together to form a simple hat blocking pad. See Fig. 8.

Pattern for Bonnet

Cleaning and Remodeling Methods

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CLEANING AND REMODELING FELTS

Light colored felts can be washed. Use white soap flakes

and lukewarm water. Rinse felts in lukewarm water, and reblock

while wet. Remove ribbon crown bands, headsize ribbons and wire around brims before washing felts. Separate crowns and

brims before reblocking felts. If felts have been stitched on

machine around crown or brims, cut crowns from brims on

machine stitching. Many felts will tear on perforations made by

machine stitching when being reblocked. Reblock old felts using the same methods as are used to block new felts. When felt is

dry apply a thin coat of felt sizing and let felt remain on block

until sizing is dry. Rewire brim edge, sew crown and brim

together and finish headsize with a swirled ribbon headband.

Dark colored fur felts can be washed also, usually a tissue

paper pad and cleaning fluid rubbed over felt is all that is

required.

The felt can then be wrapped in a damp cloth for several

hours before re-blocking.

Remove ribbon bands and wires before cleaning and

proceed the same as for felt that has been washed.

To freshen felts, place hat on block and brush felt while holding over steam. Let hat dry on block.

To remove spots from light colored felts, rub No. 0000 sandpaper over spot on felt lightly, being careful not to rub too

hard.

CLEANING HAT TRIMMINGS

To clean ostrich feathers, dip feather in naphtha or cleaning fluid, then hold feather over steam to fluff flues. To re-curl

ostrich feathers use the back of scissors or some dull instrument,

carefully pulling instrument over each flue, just as you would

curl the ends of ribbon on a gift package. Do this gently as

feather flues break very easily.

Page 160: How to Make Hats

To clean wings and other fancy feathers, wipe them off with

a cloth dipped in cleaning fluid. Glue any loose feathers. Flowers

ran be steamed after wiping off with cleaning fluid and re-gluing any loose petals.

Veils should be smoothed, pressed and coated with fabric

sizing or pressed between sheets of waxed paper, then rolled on a paper roll when not in use.

Over Shoulder Bag

OVER SHOULDER BAG

Trace and Cut Bag Pattern:

Place all pieces of

bag pattern on foundation felt and

material. Cut out. Cut #2

piece double, both felt

and material. Mark and notch each piece as pattern is marked.

Baste material and felt together. Cut #2 piece out of elastic net

and cut in half lengthwise. Also cut a piece of elastic net 9" x 2"

for bottom of bag. Match markings and stitch side seams on #1

piece together. Match markings and stitch #2 pieces. Turn to right side, press and slip a piece of elastic net in each cuff and

baste each cuff to top of bag. Stitch #3 piece flat, press and

baste to each side of bag at top and stitch. Make a facing to fit

top of bag 3" wide. On the right side of this facing stitch a piece

of material 9 1/2" x 1 1/4" on each side, making a groove for Fa-cile Spring Fastener, Style K'B, 11" long. Baste and stitch facing

around top of bag. Turn over and baste to inside of bag. Slip

elastic net in bottom of bag and sew to felt. Slip lining in bag and

hem to facing. Slip spring fastener in bag.

Page 161: How to Make Hats

Facile Fastener's special patented handbag closure simplifies the construction of handbags at home or in school projects. The hinged corners of the fasteners come apart for insertion in sleeves sewn into purse and are easily assembled to form a solid and substantial closure that will last indefinitely.

End of book.

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