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Fixing Instructions Fixing Instructions

Timber Stairparts Fixing InstructionsOur balustrade systems have been designed to be flexible to suit almost all applications and easy to install. As with any specialist area stairs and balustrade has its own terms. If you are new to this product type you can find a glossary online at www.joinerystore.com.

Replacing the balustrade on the average staircase will require about 2 days work. The job is tackled in several distinct stages.

Firstly if you are installing unfinished balustrade components then we recommend you consider finishing up to the final coat prior to installation. This will make final finishing much quickerRemoval of old balustrading – note, you should do this ONLY when the new parts have arrived and have been checked overInstallation of newels – newel bases are fixed in place first followed by newel turnings. Caps can be added at the end when there is no danger of damaging themHand & Baserails – Rails are fixed into place next. The handrail will usually require some handrail fittings to enable it to pitch and turn to suit the stairsSpindles – are the final step

If the project includes finishing, the stairs are now ready for this stage. This will often take the same length of time as installing the balustrade components. Alternatively use prefinished stairparts to get a perfect finish and avoid this job. The difference in price for finished product is surprisingly economical.

Removing Old BalustradeRemoving the old balustrade is generally a quick and easy job. The only area to pay particular attention to is the newel bases. You should never remove newel bases from a staircase turn, whether this is a winder box or a quarter landing. The base of the newel in these situations holds the treads in this area in place.

In these circumstances the existing newel can be cut off to fashion a new newel base. This option is open in all areas of the staircase, although a more professional finish will be achieved by installing new bases wherever possible. To cut down the newel to form a base, check the correct height to cut off the newel from the next section “Installing Newel Bases”. Cut the newel off level. The newel must be a minimum of 91 x 91, the same section size as the new newel turning. If it isn’t then it can be built up to achieve this. Don’t worry if its slightly larger. Once you have an acceptable sized newel you can drill a hole for the Newel Turning.

Installing Newel BasesWith the old balustrade removed the next stage is to install the newel bases. If you are using one piece newels these will be installed in exactly the same manner.

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It is important that the new base is correctly positioned on the staircase string. It must be fitted central to the string and exactly perpendicular. In addition it must be set to the correct height to ensure that the handrail height meets the relevant legislation.

The height is measured above a line called the pitch line. This is a theoretical line connecting the nosings of the treads. The easiest way to find this line is to lay a straight edge, such as the handrail, on the nosings. Each newel base is fitted a specific distance above the pitch line.

Bottom newel base is fitted with its top 260mm above the pitch lineTop newel base is fitted with its top 200mm above the pitch lineOn a winder flight the newel base should be cut off 260mm above the pitch line of the second flight. As before do not attempt to replace this newel baseOn a half landing where two bases are used side by side, the newel base at the bottom of the second flight should be fitted at 260mm, the newel base at the top of the first flight should then be fitted to match

The newel base should be housed out to fit over the string. Its often easier to cut away a piece of the nosing than try to perfectly fit the newel base over it. Once in place and with all measurements checked, the newel bases should be glued and screwed into position.

Once the newel bases are in position the newel turnings can now be glued into place and the chosen newel caps fitted to the top. If you have opted to use a half newel to finish the balustrade against the landing wall, then this should also be

fitted now. Trim the half newel base so that the newel assembly is at the same height as the newel at the top of the staircase. Note if you are planning to use mortice and tenon joints then the rails should be dry fitted only at this stage. Final fix will be done in conjunction with the handrails.

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Handrails and BaserailsThe first step is to fit the baserail to the staircase. The easiest method is to lay the rail on the staircase and mark the cuts where it meets the newel bases. Cut the baserail and glue and screw into position on top of the string.

The handrail for the staircase can be fitted in a similar manner by offering it up to the heads of the newel and marking the cut lines. Once cut we recommend using either a traditional mortice and tenon joint, or our fixing kit to securely fix the rails to the heads of the newels.

The next step is to fit the landing handrail and baserail, starting with the handrail. The easiest method here is to lay the handrail on the landing in its intended position. Place the quarter turn fitting on top of the handrail and mark where the leg of the fitting will need to be trimmed back to fit to the newel at the top of the stairs. Once cut the fitting will need to be attached to the end of the handrail.

Fittings and handrails are connected together using a special bolt with one wood threaded end and one machine screw end. The end of the fitting

should be drilled to accommodate the wood threaded end, which can be screwed into place by temporarily fitting the nut. On the handrail the rail must be drilled to allow the machine threaded end to be slid into the rail whilst ensure that the two items line up. After this is done an access hole can drilled into the underside of the handrail to allow the nut and washer to be fitted and tightened. The best method is to use a flat drill bit, with the end filed down, to prevent it breaking through the face of the handrail. Once done, glue the ends of the two components and tighten into place. In most cases some sanding and paring with a chisel will be needed to get the two pieces to match up perfectly. This is due to the tolerances inherent in all timber manufacturing.

With the handrails assembled they can now be fixed into position. If using mortice and tenon joints these can also now be fitted, along with the newels. Ideally the whole handrail assembly should now be left overnight for the glue lines to set.

The next step is to fit the landing baserail. Once again the easiest method is to lay the baserail on the landing where it will be fixed into place. Take your time to ensure that the baserail sits exactly level as often landing floorboards will have warped slightly. Once you are happy with the fit, glue and screw the baserail into position. You are now ready to install the spindles.

Spindles need to be cut to length and spaced to ensure a gap of no more than 99mm exists between the balusters. This is to ensure the finished balustrade meets meets UK Building regulations. A horizontal gap of around 80mm between the squares of the spindle is usually correct to ensure no greater than a 99mm gap between the turned areas.

Start by cutting the staircase spindles to length. Hold a spindle against the handrail and baserail and mark where the cuts should be. Once cut ensure that the spindle fits at all points of the staircase. You can then use this spindle to mark all the other spindles and cut them to suit. Do the same with the landing spindles.

You will need to center the spindles within the gap between the newels. Equalise the gap between the first and last spindle and the newels. An easy way to visualize this is to use the spindle offcuts and your fillets. Place them in the baserail and it will be easy to work out the lengths of the gaps at either end.

With the fillets and spindles cut to length you can now begin installing them. Starting at the bottom of the staircase (don’t forget to use your shorter fillet to start with), begin installing fillets and then spindles up the flight. Constantly check that each spindle is perfectly vertical. Its much easier if you pin the fillets in place as otherwise you will find that they can be pushed out of the rails as you add more spindles. When finishing off the run you will need to fit the final 2 or 3 spindles at the same time before adding the fillets. Otherwise you will not be able to get the last spindle into the grooves of the rails.

Repeat the process for the landing balustrade, add any cover caps to cover screw holes, and the installation is complete.

Finishing your Stair BalustradeFinishing your stair balustrade can take as long as installation. There are however several ways in which the process can be improved and time saved. Firstly it is worth considering our prefinished lacquered Axxys ranges. The cost difference is minimal for the time saving you can achieve.

The range of finishes available is extensive and you should always follow the manufacturers recommendations when using them. In terms of what finish to use, we recommend one that will seal the product, particularly the handrail, as it will be subjected to constant use. Products such as wax will not work well as the timber will quickly become soiled.

If you are finishing your own stair balustrade, then we strongly recommend you complete this task prior to installation. The spindles in particular are easier to finish when loose. You will need to take extra care when installing prefinished components, and some touching up will undoubtedly be necessary around the cut areas. However this will result in a much quicker completion of your project.

Once the balustrade is installed then we recommend that a final coat of paint or varnish will help seal the joints and provide a better looking finish.

Call 0845 271 0242 or visit www.JoineryStore.com Call 0845 271 0242 or visit www.JoineryStore.com

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Staircase Configurations Staircase Configurations

Bottom of Stairs Middle of StairsStraight flight with flush tread Straight flight with bullnose tread 90o turn with bullnose tread

Kite Winders 90o turn with flush tread Straight flight with flush tread

Straight flight with curtail tread

90o turn 90o turn 90o turn with three kite winders

90o turn with three kite winders 90o turn with four kite winders 180o turn

180o turn 180o turn with landing 90o turn 180o turn with landing

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Staircase Configurations Staircase Configurations

Top of Stairs

Landings

Quarter turn landing Return landing

Three kite winders with return landing Quarter turn landing Return landing

Return landing

Straight landing balustrade Quarter turn Straight continuous rail Quarter turn continuous rail

Axxys ConfigurationsStraight flight with flush tread 90o turn with three kite winders

Quarter turn landing Return landing

180o turn

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Further ConfigurationsBalustrade meets ceiling String meets string Cut string staircase