How to Grow Beautiful Orchids

8/2/2019 How to Grow Beautiful Orchids

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LAELIOCATTLEYA BERGENFIELD


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AND HOW TO GROW THEM

By ADELAIDE C. WILLOUGHBY

NEW YORK OXFORD UNIVERSITY PRESS 1950


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COPYRIGHT 1950 BY OXFORD UNIVERSITY PRESS , INC .

PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA


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Preface

THE grower of orchids is favored above other men. He belongsto a starry-eyed fraternity, to whom each small chore, accomplishedin its turn for the better culture of his orchids, is a source of never-ending and absorbing delight. The beauty of the orchid's line andcolor is known to all who bask in the offerings of the florist's win-dow, but the breathless suspense and expectation that attend theunfolding of the mysterious growth of the orchid plant are knownto the grower alone.

The appearance of each new growth and root is cause for re- joicing; the slimy mark of a snail or the cottony warning of thepresence of scale is cause for distress. The habits and idiosyncra-sies of every species and plant are subject to absorbed study.Different methods of growing and the relative merits of hybridsand species are endlessly discussed among fellow growers. Theorchid grower checks his mundane worries at the door of thegreenhouse and enters a world that offers surcease even to theheart heavily burdened with sorrow and loss.

However, when the beginner, eager but ignorant, seeks pub-lished information on the growing of orchids, he may be dis-couraged by the dearth of information. Where growers of garden-variety flowers find an almost bewildering wealth of literature,the would-be orchid grower bumps up against what seems to be a

wall of secrecy. This wall once was impregnableeach orchid


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VI

hunter, grower, and hybridizer jealously guarded finds from curi-ous and covetous eyesbut today there is an organized effort topopularize the growing of orchids by dispersing informationthrough amateur groups and bulletins. If the amateur will play

fair with the commercial grower, he can obtain much valuableinformation even from him. The amateur need only rememberthe important fact that to the professional the sale of orchids is ameans of making a living, while to the amateur it is a means of securing pleasure and perhaps pin-money.

There is now no deliberate conspiracy to conceal informationabout orchid growing, but there is still too little material availablefor the amateur. Many fine orchid books, first printed in expensivelimited editions, have been long out of print, and others, pub-lished abroad, have not been translated. In the following pageswe shall contribute our small share to building the foundation of a more general interest in and understanding of orchid culture.Beginning with a glimpse into the life secrets of the orchid andcontinuing through to the rather specialized knowledge requiredfor growing orchids from seed, the aim of the book is to make a

fascinating and worth-while hobby available to thousands. Oncethe way has been opened, the amateur will find many adventur-ous and rewarding by-paths to explore on his own.

Credit must be given to Sanders' Orchid Guide, B. S. Williams'Orchid Grower's Manual, L. H. Bailey's Standard Cyclopedia of

Horticulture, and Schlechter's Die Orchideen, all of which wereinvaluable to me in preparing this book. Also of great help were

Edward Albert White's American Orchid Culture, RutherfordPlatt's This Green World, Charles Darwin's Origin of Species,Orchid Culture in Ceylon (edited by E. Soysa), the Orchid Digest,

American Orchid Society Bulletin, Missouri Botanical Garden Bulletin, Journal of the New York Botanical Garden, AustralianOrchid Review, British Orchid Review, and the Brazilian Or-quidea.

I wish to extend my sincere thanks to friends and relatives fortheir faith in me during the writing of this book; to Mr. Fred


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PREFACE vii

Barns of the Pacific Coast Greenhouse Company, for his help onthe chapter on 'Suitable Housing for Orchids'; to Mr. HarlanCrippen for the initial editorial assistance; to Dr. L. F. Hawkinsonfor the use of many of his orchid photographs; and to H. Pat-

terson & Sons, 'Orchidhaven,' Bergenfield, New Jersey, whose Laeliocattleya Bergenfield, originated and raised by them, hasbeen used for the frontispiece. The Orchid Digest has been morethan generous in allowing me to reproduce many illustrations thatfirst appeared in its publications.

Finally, this book is dedicated to A. B. Willoughby, who firstguided my footsteps down the path of orchid lore and, by hisexhaustive study, observation, and sometimes painful experience,kindled in me the desire to add my bit to the gradually growingfund of orchid information.

A. C. W.September 1949


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Gontents

PREFACE , V

I . Life Secrets of the Orchid, 3

2. The Orchid Family, 11

3. Suitable Housing for Orchids, 26

4. Proper Orchid Balance, 40

5. Orchid Potting, 50

6. Resting Is Necessary, 63

7. Pests dnd Diseases of Orchids, 70

8. Growing Orchids from Seed, 81

9. Artificial Feeding Gravel Culture, 90

10. Hybrids of the Orchid Family, 98

APPENDIX A: A List of Orchids, 107

APPENDIX B: Prize-winning Hybrids, 124

INDEX , 129


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List of Illustrations

Laeliocattleya Bergenfield FRONTISPIECE I BETWEEN PAGES 36-7

1. Brassia Gireoudiana 2. Stanhopea Wardii3. Mormodes colossus

11 1. Cattleya velutina

2. Brassavola nodosa 3. Oncidium Forbesii 4. Odontoglossum grande 5. Miltonia vexillaria 6. Odontoglossum dtrosmum

in Dendrobium Farmed rv

1. Cycnoches chlorochilon 2. Lycaste brevispatha, syn. Candida 3. Phalaenopsis Stuartiana 4. Vanda coerulea 5. Coelogyne Huettneriana 6. Dendrobium superbum

v"Vanda Sanderiana


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xu

VI 1. An amateur' s orchid house 2. Double-deck orchid bench construction 3. Wardian case used for orchid seed culture

VII 1. Slat shading 2. Side-view slat shading 3. Sketch of heating plant

VIII Chicken ladder used in replacing glass in greenhouse

IX 1. Odontonia Cardinalis, F.C.C.R.H.S. 2. Cymbidium Swallow Perfection

x 1. Cypripedium Louis Crampton 2. Cypripedium Cheddington

XI Potting Cattleyas

XII 1. From flask seedlings to blooming plant 2. Seedlings3. Cattleya Mossiae x Laeliocattleya Rabeiana 4. Potinara Ruby

XIII From seed to embryo

xrv Brassocattleya H. G. Alexander

xv Brassocattleya Hartland

XVI 1. Laeliocattleya Elissa 2. Laeliocattleya Dulzura


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ORCHIDS AND HOW TO GROW THEM


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Life Secrets of the Orchid

THE beginnings of the orchid family are shrouded in mystery.Since most orchids are epiphyticthat is, having aerial rootsthrough which they receive sustenance from the minerals in themoisture-laden air of the tropicsthey have left no traces suchas the fossilized remains of ground-growing plants. Dr. E. Soysa,writing in Orchid Culture in Ceylon, advances the delightful andplausible, if unproved, theory that orchids antedated the fossil

era, but in their love of light ascended trees to escape the advanc-ing jungle. There they lived, died, dried up, and floated away,leaving no trace. Whatever the genesis of the orchid family, itcannot be doubted that the orchid family is very old, judgingboth by its great variety and its highly complex structural develop-ment, attainable only through the passage of time.

The orchid is among the largest and most highly developed of the plant families, with some fifteen to twenty thousand species.A provident nature has lavished every means to insure the per-petuation of this favorite child. She has provided the flower withall the charm and allure of a fairy princess to win insect vassalsto perform the service of cross-pollination. Nature has decreedthat the orchid should be dependent on some outside insectagent, and the resultant relation is a beautiful example of co-operation between the plant and animal kingdoms. The highestmeans of perpetuation in plants, cross-pollination is necessary in

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4 all but a very few species of orchids. In the few cases of self-pollination the seeds are frequently infertile.

The insects performing the service of cross-pollination vary withthe species and are as diverse as the ingenious contrivances by

which the orchids utilize them. It is in every case a reciprocalarrangement, the plant receiving the benefits of fertilization, theinsect the largess of food and drink. Each species usually has itsparticular insect, as is shown by the special means each floweruses to attract its insect.

Darwin first noted a striking example of this specialization. Ona trip to South America he had an opportunity to see a plant of

Angraecum sesquipedale. This starry-white flower, a rare orchidof Madagascar, has a weirdly elongated lip containing a nectary,about eleven inches long, that holds one-and-a-half ounces of thesweet fluid produced by the sugar-secreting glands. Darwin im-mediately predicted that some day a moth with a proboscis atleast twelve inches long would be discovered to be responsible forcross-pollination of this peculiar orchid. In time such a moth wasfound and was duly named Xanthopan morgani praedicta. Inthis particular alliance it is probable that the moth would starvewithout the orchid and that the orchid would become extinctwithout the moth. Such high specialization has insured the purityof species that has marked the progress of the orchid family.

This specialization is reflected in the extremely varied formsof the reproductive organs. These organs lie within the lip, morescientifically known as the labellum, along a fleshy enlargement

called the column. The anther-bearing stamens are usually sealedtogether into the column, and a projection of this elongatedfleshy organ is the rostellum, whose purpose seems to be to sep-arate the pollen and the stigmatic cavity, thus minimizing thedanger of self-pollination. The anthers produce tiny powderygrains of fertile pollen, usually held together by a mysterious viscidfluid that hardens on exposure to air and is not affected by windor rain. The stigmatic cavity with its receptive ovum (egg) waitsfor the 'marrying' insect to deposit pollen from another flower.


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LIFE SECRETS OF THE ORCHID 5

The labellum serves in three capacities: it provides storagespace for the pollen, an antechamber to the ovary, and a banquetroom for the insect. On entering any orchid flower the insect mustfirst brush the empty stigmatic cavity in his search for the nectar

or other food. Drunk with the repast, he blunders out, the narrowpassage compelling him on the way to brush past the pollenmasses, which become dislodged and, because of the sticky fluid,adhere to him. These masses hold firmly until he enters anotherflower of the same species. The feeding position is ideal for de-positing the pollen.

In some species the insect is not allowed to enter the storagechamber but, by lighting on the labellum, he releases a tiny gunthat projects the pollen masses toward him in the shape of ablunt arrow. With this attached to his body he flies to the nextflower where, as he sups, the arrow of pollen fits neatly into thecavity. He probably picks up another load of precious pollen ashe leaves, and hunger, or perhaps the memory of his recent feast,leads him again to the proper flower, where he once more depositshis burden.

Most flowers offer nectar but some offer solid food to the insectperforming the pollination service. Insects have been observedfeeding on the crest, a crisp ridge on the labellum. Some pervadethe air with perfume, while others bring visitors by their hand-some size and showy color. Small inconspicuous flowers clustertogether on the stems to win attention. Some wear shining whitethat gleams in the moonlight and draws night-flying moths.

Once arrived at the flower, the insect's path is not left to chancebut is carefully charted. Lines on the lip lead inward, crests areraised to keep his steps from straying, dark spots on the brightthroats, or the large white spots common to some species andcalled 'eyes,' act as beacons. Although the flowers differ in theirinsect-attracting characteristics, there is one feature common toall: the insect must always pass the empty receptive stigmaticcavity first, thus depositing his load of pollen before feedingand picking up more pollen.


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In most of the flowers the exaggerated labellum twists fromnormal to flatten out and form a welcome mat to the feast within.After pollination, this mat is lifted or twisted back to normal toprevent further intrusion. The ovary lies just behind the columnand part-way down the stem. After pollination the male pollen

cells travel down a long passage to fertilize the waiting egg. Thisrequires a period of twenty-four hours or longer, and sometimesfails entirely. If fertilization has taken place, the ovary begins toswell and the fruit or seed pod begins to form below the flower.Maturation will require from nine to eighteen months, dependingon the species. Seeds require five to seven years or more to pro-duce blooming plants, although some of the so-called 'botanicals'may require less.

Beauty and use seem to go hand-in-hand in the orchid family.The lovely petals and sepals of the flowers guard and protect thevital organs hidden in the labellum: in some cases as extra pro-tection they never entirely open, and in others they fold as soonas the flower has been pollinated. This last evidence of protectionoften comes as a shock to the amateur orchid grower. When anuninvited bee enters the greenhouse and pollinates a bloom being

cherished for a special exhibit, the flower responds by blushingviolently and soon thereafter folds its petals or 'wilts,' much tothe distress of the grower.

Nature's schemes for perpetuation of the orchid species work with wonderful precision. A peculiar balance seems to be observedin that rarer and less productive orchids have developed a morecomplicated and thus more accurate and certain method of cross-

pollination. Self-pollination is discouraged by nature. Even in thefew orchids capable of it, the process seems only to be used wheninsects fail to appear.

The process of pollination is comparatively simple in generawith large, open flowers, having short, fairly wide, easily acces-sible nectaries as, for example, Cattleya, Laelia, Phaius, Sophro-nites, Bletia, Coelogyne, and Cymbidium. Bees readily perform theservice. In greenhouses with wide-open vents the bees frequently


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LIFE SECRETS OF THE ORCHID J

pollinate indiscriminately and many wilted flowers result. Thosehaving a longer nectary, like the Angraecum, are pollinated bymoths. Members of the genus Vanda and perhaps of Aerides areprobably pollinated by a larger moth. Some of these that produce

only a few flowers also manufacture extremely firm cement forattaching the pollen masses to the insect, preventing loss in flight.Certain types of Cypripediums are attractive only to small bees.

Epipactus latifolia finds its needs best served by wasps. Darwin reported that a Dr. Criiger had observed swarms of

bees actually feeding on the crests of the labellum of Coryanthes,a weird flower with a hooded dorsal that appears to crouch downover the labellum. Its most interesting characteristic is a bucket-shaped appendage peculiar to the species. This is filled with aslow-dripping fluid, not a nectar, whose purpose seems to be towet the wings of the hungry bee when he passes the slippery sidesand thus force him to creep through a narrow passage. Here heforcibly brushes the stigmatic cavity, finds crests spread for himto nibble, and picks up the pollen while feeding. He flies off andrepeats the process on another Coryanthes and the cycle is com-

pleted. In Pterostylus, after the insect enters, the labellum shuts a little

trap door, forcing him to leave by the back through a passagewaywhere the cramped quarters facilitate the performance of hisfunction. Masdevallia fenestra never fully opens but has tinywindows that remain open until pollination occurs, when theyare drawn shut. Darwin admitted that he was never able to de-

termine the method of pollination for this flower. As amazing as are these structural oddities, they are no more sothan the means by which the pollen masses adapt themselves toa position suited to their proper delivery. Rutherford Platt inThis Green World has reported that the Orchis, fertilized bybees, attaches the pollen masses to the bee in erect horns, which,however, wilt down in a manner that permits them to hit exactlythe waiting cavity of the next flower. If they remained erect theywould not fit.


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8 Calopogon carries its stigma on the bottom part of the petal,

and when the bee lands with a pollen load he is neatly flip-floppedinto a somersault that brings the pollen on his back to propercontact. In Cypripedium acaule the bee is attracted to the en-

trance by white lines, pushes through the softly drawn drapes of the pouch of the 'lady's slipper,' and sips the nectar, but whenhe seeks to retreat, the drapes are closed tight behind him. Bysqueezing through the only open place, the hole at the top, hefirst scrapes the pollen on to the stigma and then, pushing pastthe pollen masses at the top, picks up another load. Apparentlyundaunted he flies to another rosy slipper and repeats the routine.

In Catasetum the vital pollen is stored in a secret chamberinaccessible to the visitor and, as already described, is dischargedby a miniature catapult at the intruding insect. Most interestingof orchids, Catasetum appears to be an exclusively male form, and

Momtchanthus viridis, which has only rudimentary pollen masses,the female of the same species.

The pollination of orchids is a subject that still has ample roomfor original research. Far too little is known about the subject.Are the so-called spider orchids (Cryptostylis arachnitis) fertilizedby spiders, the Arachnis muscifera, resembling flies, by flies, andthe bee orchids (Bee Ophrys) by bees? Is it the putrid smell of

Bulbophyllum putridum, or foetidum, that attracts, and are theattracted insects those that feed on decayed vegetable matter?Patient and close observation will be needed to discover theanswers.

In addition to the great variety of inducements and ingenuityof nature to insure pollination, the orchid plant, compensatingfor the extreme danger threatening its very tiny and powderyseed progeny, produces this seed in great profusion. Darwin citedan instance of one pod with approximately 6,020 fertile seeds, theplant bearing four such capsules. One plant of Orchis maculateproduced thirty seed pods, each pod containing about 6,200 seeds,or a total of 186,300. Fritz Miiller found 1,756,440 seeds in asingle Maxillaria pod. The world would be overrun by orchids


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LIFE SECRETS OF THE ORCHID 9

were it not that the seed prospers under conditions that areequally favorable to its enemies, pests and fungi. The orchidseed's chance for survival is further reduced by the fact that it isnot in itself supplied with sufficient food but must depend on

outside helpa friendly fungus called Rhizoctonia, supplanted inartificial cultivation by chemical nutrient. Another important dis-advantage of the orchid seed is that, as compared to other plants,it is singularly undifferentiated into roots, leaves, and endosperm.

The matter of propagation is of utmost concern to the grower.Propagating from seed, which will be considered in a later chap-ter, is a rather technical method for beginning amateurs, but

other methods of propagation, either natural or artificial, seemprosaic compared to the thrilling story of seed production andseed growing. In some ways, however, they are more advanta-geous, in that they are simpler and produce a flower of certainappearance.

Plants of sympodial growth, that is with the new growthcoming out of the base of and alongside the old bulbs, will be

found to propagate readily by division. Cattleya, Laelia, and Cym-bidium are typical of this type. Cypripedium is frequently foundto divide itself in nature even more readily than others of thetype.

The Cattleya permits division as long as three or four bulbs areallowed. Each year in the life of the Cattleya adds a new growthat the front end of the plant, and certain species may occasionally

grow in two and, more rarely, in three directions. As the newbulbs form, the old ones frequently begin to lose their leaves androots. They become 'poor relations,' a drag on the living plant.On being severed from the living plant the backbulbs, as theseold drybulbs are called, will, if placed in a warm, moist spot,start life over. After two, three, or perhaps four years these willbe new plants and will flower. The advantage of the backbulbtype of propagation over the growing of seedlings is that theflower will exactly resemble that of the original plant, while in


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1O

the seedling there is no way to tell whether it will resemble oneparent plant or the other or be something entirely different.

Plants of monopodial growth, like Vanda, Renanthera, andAngraecum, with the new growth appearing continuously from

the top or crown, will not divide so readily. The only method of propagation for them, other than seed growing, is to cut off thetop of the plant below several of the husky aerial roots. On beingpotted, the top part may take root and become a new plant. Itis a risky practice, however, and is not especially recommendedto amateurs unless for some reason the crown of the plant hasbecome damaged and appears dead. When the top is cut off orinjured in this fashion the bottom part will probably developadventitious plants. This type of plant is a slow grower and needsto be very large before flowering, so that any kind of propagationis a slow and tedious process at best.

Phalaenopsis, while differing from Vanda in that it is stemless,is also of monopodial growth and not divisible. It will occasion-ally throw adventitious plants from the nodes of the flower stem.Experiments have shown that it is possible, by wrapping the

flower node in damp Osmunda and keeping it warm and damp,to force the growth of a new plant.

Dendrobium, of sympodial growth, will put forth little plant-lets, complete with bulb and roots, at the slightest provocation.These plantlets develop from the cane-like flower stems. If thebeginner keeps his Dendrobiums, especially the deciduous type,too warm and moist during the dormant season they will waste

their strength in plantlets and fail to bloom. Many commercialgrowers pick the entire cane on flowering and, after cutting off the blooms, lay the canes on damp, warm sand or gravel to allowplantlets to develop from the dormant eyes. Dendrobiums areeasily divided or grown from seed.


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Tlze Orchid Family

THE prospective orchidist will want to have a general knowledgeof the orchid family and a survey of the individual members withwhom he may want later to become more closely acquainted. Therange of choice is wide, since, as has been said, there are fromfifteen to twenty thousand species. This chapter gives a broadand general view of the field in the hope that the reader will bestimulated to further investigation. It is intended neither as acomplete list nor as a scientific description, for which Bailey'sStandard Cyclopedia of Horticulture is readily available. Out of print, but occasionally found are Williams's Orchid Grower's

Manual, Dr. Rudolph Schlecter's books on orchids (in German),and Sanders' Orchid Guide. The year 1947 saw the publicationof Sanders' Complete List of Orchid Hybrids.

The orchid family varies widely in habitat, ranging throughoutthe tropics, over the temperate zones of both hemispheres, andeven reaching into the fringes of the Arctic. There is a similarlywide variation in type, with several systems of classification.

The first division is into monopodial and sympodial groups, re-ferring to the habit of growth. The monopodial, including theVanda and Aerides, grow continuously from a central crown,which eventually appears atop a long stem that has frequently lostits lower leaves. Phalaenopsis, although monopodial, is stemless,

but yearly grows a pair of leaves from the characteristic crown.


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12

The leaves of monopodial orchids are heavy, leathery, fleshy, andcapable of storing some quantity of moisture, but the plants mustnever be allowed to dry out completely. The leaves of Vandateres, like pine needles, do not resemble leaves, but are three to

four inches long, very slender, round and succulent, and taper toa point. The sympodial group, of which Cattleya, Laelia, and Coelogyne

are notable examples, has a creeping rootstock, with each newgrowth springing from the base and alongside the last year'sgrowth. The new growth appears as a swelling or 'dormant' eyethat at the proper time will 'break' or begin to grow. In somegenera, such as Laelia and Coelogyne, the growths will break inseveral directions, but in Cattleya usually in only one.

The pseudobulb, a characteristic of sympodial orchids, is a res-ervoir for food and moisture against times of drought and dor-mancy. It differs widely according to the different genera. Thepseudobulb of Cattleya is longish, smooth, and rounded; whilethat of Laelia may be slightly flattened, even in some cases assum-ing a many-sided angular form. Certain species have pseudobulbs

that resemble small pineapples. The pseudobulbs of Odonto-glossum and Miltonia are much flattened and compressed; thoseof Coelogyne are very round, short, and prolific; and those of Cymbidium very large, rounded, and stocky. Dendrobium inmany species lacks pseudobulbs, but even the long cane-likeflower stems, along which the leaves grow in pairs, are capable of storing food and moisture.

Orchids may also be classified as saprophytic, terrestrial, semi-terrestrial, and epiphytic. Here we will not be much concernedwith the saprophytes, natives of temperate zones, since they eitherlack flowers entirely or have small inconspicuous flowers of in-terest only to the botanist. Lacking chlorophyll, the valuablegreen substance in leaves by means of which is accomplishedphotosynthesis (the manufacture of carbohydrates, sugars andstarches, through the action of the sun or light on carbon dioxideand water), the saprophyte is forced to obtain sustenance from


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THE ORCHID FAMILY 13 the predigested food of decaying organic matter in the soil. Thesaprophytes are typified by the Corallorhyza, whose tangled root-stock resembles coral, and the Neottis.

The terrestrial orchids are also found in the temperate zones of

both hemispheres. Among them are the tall Sobralia, gracefulCypripediums, Spiranthes, and fairy-flowered Habenaria. Calypsobulbosa (or borealis) is a native of the cold reaches of the Arctic.North America abounds in native orchids, many of which are verycommon and not generally recognized as orchids. Most showy of these, the Cypripedium or well-known 'lady's slipper,' has a widerange of habitat in the United States and has attractive foliage aswell as flowers. However, few of the terrestrial orchids transplantwell from their marshy homes, and it is perhaps best to seek themout and enjoy them in their native habitat.

By far the largest, most varied, and most showy of the orchidfamily are included in the semi-terrestrial and epiphytic groups.These are tropical or subtropical and live on trees in the rain-swept coastal jungles or on bare rocks in the hot sun. Their ele-vation ranges from sea level to two thousand feet above sea level.

They abound through parts of Asia, the islands of the SouthPacific, Australia, New Zealand, Africa, and South and CentralAmerica. The Himalayas and the Andes are also congenial tolovely orchids.

The epiphytic orchids are widely and wrongly considered to beparasites because they grow on other plants, notably trees. Theplant 'home' is actually used only for support. In addition to the

roots that cling to trees, these orchids also have aerial (epiphytic)roots that are sent forth to secure nourishment from the solublemineral salts in the moisture-laden air and from the humuswashed down into the crotches of trees and cracks of rocks. Thesupply of such nourishment is plentiful in some seasons andscant in others, a fact that no doubt accounts for the five to sevenyears required for the slow growth from seed to bloom.

In his selection of plants, the grower may arrange his collectionto include representatives of all of the above-mentioned divisions


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14 and also plan to have plants coming to bloom all through theyear. The epiphytic orchids, however, are of paramount interestto the grower, and we shall consider them in some detail in thefollowing paragraphs.

Botanical names of orchids are usually long and confusing anddifficult to pronounce, and at first seem to offer a serious obstacleto the further study and understanding of the family. The pro-nunciations suggested in the listings of the various species andhybrids on pages 107-23 are in good usage, but are by no meansthe only ones permissible.

The Cattleya, favored by the florist and valuable as the parentof large and showy hybrids, is perhaps the orchid best known tothe public. There are over forty species of Cattleya. In their na-tive state the plants grow in thick clusters on treesfrequentlymahogany or a type of acaciaand are so well protected by giantstinging ants that the only way to harvest them is to cut downthe tree.

The Cattleya plant lacks beauty to the uninitiated, being com-posed of longish, rounded pseudobulbs, which advance rhizome-fashion along the surface of the potting mixture, and are toppedby one, two, or three long green leaves of firm leathery texture.The average Cattleya 'puts on' or grows one new pseudobulb ayear. After several new bulbs have been formed the old ones tendto lose their leaves and roots, becoming backbulbs. These back-

bulbs are frequently referred to as poor relations, owing to theirhabit of sapping the energy of the growing end of the plant. If severed and placed in a warm, moist spot they will usually respondby sending forth new growth and roots to start a new plant.

A tiny swelling or dormant eye will be found at the base of each pseudobulb in a Cattleya plant. In proper time the eye of the youngest bulb begins to swell and break into growth, acquir-

ing new leaves and sending out new roots. A new pseudobulb isformed and, in a healthy, well-cared-for plant, each will be finer


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THE ORCHID FAMILY 15

and larger than the last. In case of injury to the forebulb, one of the dormant eyes of an older bulb will break.

From among the leaves at the top of the new growth the flowersheath will form. Very disconcerting to the beginner is the habit

of some species of growing or 'throwing' sheaths at the time thenew growth is made up. This means that after the new bulb iscompleted there is a long period during which the flower sheathremains empty of buds, and the amateur despairs of ever havinga flower. Some Cattleyas even have double sheaths, which alsodisappoint the eager grower. Finally, after repeatedly holding theplant against the light in search of buds, he is rewarded by dis-covering small dark spots at the base of the sheath. At last theflower buds are 'set' or have begun to ripen. Species differ in thelength of time required for maturing or flowering.

The Cattleya is among the larger and showier of the speciesorchidsspecies meaning 'native' as opposed to 'hybrid.' Coloringranges through all shades and tints of purple, from amethyst andviolet to magenta and deep red. Brown, yellow, and green speciesare found among the genus. Many of the species have alba varie-

ties, whose flowers are pure white with a touch of green or yellowat the throat.

Important among the Cattleyas are the labiata group, thosepossessed of a fine, large lip, which makes them valuable as theprogenitors of commercially desirable hybrids as well as for theirown beauty and prodigality. These labiates have some representa-tive blooming, with trustworthy regularity, at every season of the

year. The intermediate or 'Cattleya' house satisfactorily serves thisgroup. (For listing and descriptions of species of this genus seepages 1078.)

The genus Laelia, native to Mexico and Brazil, is closely alliedto Cattleya, crossing readily with it to form the exquisite Laelio-cattleya hybrids. The plant is very similar in habit and appear-ance; the pseudobulbs are slightly more angular, at times quitesquare, at others quite flat. It has many aerial roots; the new leads


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16 break in more than one direction, giving it an irregular form of growth. Either the intermediate or cooler house serves this family.(Listing and descriptions of species of this genus may be foundon page 109.)

The genus Brassavola is related to Laelia and Cattleya, cross-ing harmoniously with them to form the exotic hybrids Brasso-cattleyas and Brassolaeliocattleyas. The plants have small pseudo-bulbs, which are frequently compressed. The flowers, usuallywhite, or greenish-white, are not outstanding except for the verylarge, fringed lip, a characteristic handed down to the progeny.

An intermediate, or even warmer, house will serve. (Listing anddescriptions of species of this genus may be found on page 109 f.)

The genus Dendrobium is prolific and diverse, comprising someone hundred species, which vary greatly in size and shape. It con-tains D. violaceoflavens (vie-o-lay-see-o-flay-vens), with sixteen-footpseudobulbs, and D. Schneideri (sh'ny-der-eye or ee), measured ininches. It ranges from southern Asia, particularly the Sikkhimregion, through Ceylon, Malaya, Siam, China, Japan, all the largeislands (the Philippines, Java, Sumatra, Borneo), and even some of the small islands, to Australia and New Zealand. A single specieshas been found to adjust itself to entirely different places. Mem-bers of the genus grow on trees, in the ground, and on bare rocks,through great extremes of temperature and elevation. Some havebeen found as high as 1500 to 2000 feet in Burma at 120 0

The Dendrobium plant is unusual in appearance, being sym-podial, epiphytic, and bulbless, but possessed of heavy cane-likestems, which also produce the papery-green leaves. Especially inthe deciduous types these canes store sufficient moisture and foodto tide the plant over periods of extreme drought.

F.

The genus is divided into deciduous and evergreen, which againdivides into warm- and cool-growing plants. All evergreen Den-

drobes (the name affectionately given the genus by orchidists) arehandsome plants with their leafy, graceful foliage. They have


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cane-like stems, taking the place of pseudobulbs, and bear theflowers in erect panicles (clusters, as of grapes), singly at thenodes, or in drooping racemes (stems with flowers attached atintervals). Evergreen Dendrobiums may be accommodated in the

warm house. Deciduous Dendrobiums are peculiar-looking plants, becomingdry and shriveled bamboo-like canes each year after the leavesdrop off. Amazingly, and lovelier by contrast, the flowers bud andbloom from the nodes (joints) of these dry canes. Deciduous Den-drobes bloom on the old wood, and evergreen Dendrobes on thenew growth. They may be accommodated in the warm house andremoved to a cooler spot while resting. (Listing and descriptionsof warm-growing and evergreen and deciduous species of thisgenus may be found on pages 110-11.)

The genus Oncidium is a very old one. It ranges from hotcoastal regions to the cold of 12,000 feet elevation. It is native toMexico, Central and tropical South America, and the WestIndies. It has short, thick pseudobulbs and slender, graceful leaves.

Though the flowers are small compared to the Cattleya, they area spray-type of considerable grace and charm. The blooms are flat,of silky texture, resembling a dancing girl with wide-spread skirtsand tiny waist. The clear bright yellow attained by some of thespecies is unsurpassed. An intermediate or cool house will serve.(Listing and descriptions of the species of the genus Oncidiummay be found on pages 111-12.)

The possibilities of each genus are so fascinating that it is onlywith reluctance that we pass on to the next. The Cypripediumsmust be dismissed in far too short a space. Williams has devotedninety-two pages to this genus as against fifty-five for the Cattleyasand fifty-four for the Dendrobiums. The amateur can only beurged to further independent research.

Botanists have lately decided on a complicated division alteringthe nomenclature of the Cypripedium, but for the present pur-


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18

pose all species can be dealt with under the old inclusive name.Cypripediums are both evergreen and deciduous. The deciduousgroups are from South America and have chiefly a specializedbotanical interest. All of North America boasts Cypripediums,

but not many people are aware that the modest 'lady's slipper'and 'moccasin flower' are orchids and humble sisters to the regalCattleya. Cypripediums are to be found in some form practicallyall over the world. (Listing and descriptions of native NorthAmerican slippers may be found on page 112.)

More showy, and adaptable to greenhouse culture, the tropicalCypripediums, denizens of the Far East, are handsome plants with

shiny dark-green foliage. These warmer growing types have hand-somely mottled leaves. They are the parents of the rounded-petalhybrids so prized by florists.

Cypripedium in its tropical forms is a genus highly recom-mended for amateurs. It is gratifyingly prolific, easy of culture andadaptable, and one of the few that can be grown in a dwelling.(Listing and descriptions of species with marked and unmarkedleaves may be found on pages 112-13.)

The genus Cymbidium is a hardy one reaching an ever greaterand well-deserved popularity. Plants are sympodial, terrestrial,semiterrestrial, and epiphytic. They are grown outdoors underlath in the tropics and thrive particularly on the West Coast of North America, where Southern California hopes to become theCymbidium center of the world.

The plants have great solid pseudobulbs and very long grass-like leaves. From the depths of this graceful foliage (waist high),the flowers climb along tall, sturdy stems, usually erect, but droop-ing in some species. This handsome spray orchid has lent itself so well to hybridizing that it has attained a perfection in flower,of size and shape that rivals the Cattleya, and in range of colorit is surpassed by no other orchid. The aim of modern hybridizershas been to produce a flower with a dorsal sepal and petals so


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round that the hand cannot be seen if held behind the flowera far cry from the slim-petaled grandparents.

Species of Cymbidium have proved strangely difficult to growunder artificial conditions, probably owing to the difficulty of

giving them proper aeration. For that reason as well as for theirsuperior beauty and size, the hybrids are far better known thanthe species. They must be grown in a cool house or outdoors.

Although there are sixty known species, only about ten of themhave been used to any extent in making the many lovely hybrids.(Listing and descriptions of species of this genus may be foundon pages 113-14. Listing is for reference and not to tempt the

amateur to produce or grow the plants.)

The genus Vanda contains many species represented by largehandsome plants and a wide variety of beauty in the flowers. Bysome growers considered difficult to cultivate, their charm is wellworth the supplying of their particular needs and the studying of their habits. The plants are pseudobulb-less, the leaves distichous

(dis-tik-ous), or disposed in two parallel lines along the heavy,erect stem. The tendency of the stem is to grow up toward thesun, as the surprised amateur finds when his plant reaches theroof and has no more room to grow. The lower leaves frequentlydrop off. Thick aerial roots form along the stem and, whensmooth, green-tipped, and fat, indicate that the plant is progress-ing. When they become shriveled and ringed, something is dras-

tically wrong with their culture. In the showier species the flowers are borne in loose racemesand have spreading sepals and petals; in others the petals arespread and tend to roll under. In the former type the texture of the flowers is papery but shines as though sprinkled with diamonddust. In the latter the texture is leathery or waxy and very heavy.The lip is often very inconspicuous. (Listing and descriptions of

interesting and lovely Vandas to be grown in the hot house maybe found on page 115.)


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20

The genus Phalaenopsis boasts plants almost as beautiful astheir flowers; they have smooth, shiny, large leaves, emanatingfrom the central crown, and they lack pseudobulbs. Called by theflorists 'butterfly orchids,' in their home they are more nearly cor-

rectly known as 'moth orchids,' gleaming white and moth-like inthe dark of night. In recent years they have often replaced liliesof the valley for bridal bouquets because of the purity of theirwhite spray-like flowers. Heavy strap-like roots go forth searchingfor moisture and, owing to their habit of roving and clinging toforeign objects, constitute a considerable problem in repotting.Erect woody stems bear flowers prolifically until the weight causesthem to curve gracefully.

The structure of the flowers is exquisite, the dorsal sepalrounded, shaping to a point at the top; the side petals broad andsweeping; the two lower sepals, narrower and sometimes over-lapping, forming a background for the remarkable lip, crestedwith yellow. Red lines in the throat seem to signal the way tothe hybridizing insects, and the fore lobes of the lip are frequentlyelongated into curling tendrils. An intermediate house will servethough they prefer warmer conditions. (Listing and descriptionsof species included in this genus may be found on pages 115-16.)

Epidendrum is a hardy genus to which belong a great numberof so-called 'botanicals' that, because their flowers are small andof no commercial value, are of interest only to botanists. Theplant is vine-like in some species, but has definite pseudobulbs in

others; it is epiphytic and sympodial. The small flowers are veryabundant, usually starry (slender sepals and petals as contrastedwith the broad petals and sepals of Cattleya and Phalaenopsis),and frequently of brilliant, almost harsh, coloringincluding allshades of red from orange to maroon. It has an affinity forSophronitis (sof'fron-eye-tis), with which it readily crosses to form

Epiphronitis, It grows like a weed in Mexico where hedges of E. radicans axe often seen. Plants have pseudobulbs of many andvaried shapes. Outdoors or an intermediate, cool, or hot house


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will serve. (Listing and descriptions of species may be found onpages 116-17.)

Sophronitis is a genus of epiphytic, dwarf, evergreen plants

similar in appearance and habit to Cattleya but requiring coolerconditions and more light. The coloring of the flowers is verybrilliant. An intermediate or hot house will serve. (Listing anddescriptions of species may be found on page 117.)

Members of the genus Odontoglossum have been found diffi-cult to grow under artificial cultivation, as they require conditionsentirely different from those of most greenhouse orchids. Seldomfound at an elevation of less than 5000 feet, they need shade, air,and moisture without being chilled. They are so showy andlovely, in respect to both plantpseudobulbous and foliaceousand to crisply serrated flowers, that it is well worth the effort tostudy their native environment and supply conditions to makethem happy. The plants are small, compact, evergreen, sympodial,and epiphytic, and the flowers are borne along tall, curving spikes.The species are many and varied, all beautiful. They require cool-house culture with shade.

The genus is noted for its many fine natural hybrids. It crossesreadily with Miltonia to form Odontonia, considered by manygrowers an improvement on the parents because of the largerflowers and greater ease of growth. It also hybridizes freely withOncidium to form Odontocidium. (Listing and descriptions of

species may be found on pages 117-19.)

Stanhopea is an interesting genus. It is epiphytic and sympodial,with large, showy, fragrant flowers, and has the habit of throwingthe flower spike from the bottom of the plant, so that it requirespotting in a basket. The flowers, not prolific, have a peculiar waxytexture and are disappointingly short-lived. If cut immediatelyand placed in water they will last a little longer. The fleshy promi-nent lip and organs for reproduction display many surprising


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22

shapes in the different species. The plants are pseudobulbous andhave dark green leaves. Either an intermediate or cooler housewill serve. (Listing and descriptions of species of this genus maybe found on page 119.)

The genus Miltonia has very fragile-looking plants, the pseudo-bulbs so pale a green as to appear transparent and the delicatefoliage closely adhering to the pseudobulbs at the base and feath-ering out at the top. The plants are difficult to maintain withoutyellowing or spotting, and are very susceptible to thrips and redspiders, whose inroads still further mar their appearance. They areepiphytic and sympodial. The flowers are large for the size of thebulb and are borne in large numbers on a slender, erect stem.

Miltonia, because of its beauty and variety, offers desirableplants for an amateur collection. The flowers do not last wellwhen cut, but if left on the plant are long-lived. If well tendedthe whole plant makes a graceful and attractive decoration orcenterpiece. It crosses with Cochlioda to form Miltonioda. Anintermediate house serves. (Listing and descriptions of species of

this genus may be found on pages 119-20.)

The genus Phaius, although not one of the treasured 'commer-cials,' is satisfactory and easy to grow. The plant is terrestrial andepiphytic, handsomely ornamental, and usually pseudobulbous. Ithas large fine leaves from the midst of which rise tall, erect stemsbearing large, showy flowers. The coloring is odd with the fre-

quent combination of white and yellow, while the outside of the petals, sepals, and lip is white. Phaius crosses readily withCalanthe. An intermediate house serves. (Listing and descriptionsof species of this genus may be found on page 120.)

The genus Calanthe is terrestrial, infrequently epiphytic, sym-podial, evergreen, and sometimes deciduous. Having large, wide,gracefully drooping leaves of shimmering texture and artisticgrooving, it is much used in England for table decoration. The


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THE ORCHID FAMILY 23 pseudobulbs are large, heavy, and of light olive-green, and theflowers grow in sprays and are delicately colored, though coarserin texture than most orchids. An intermediate or cool house willserve. (Listing and descriptions of species of this genus may be

found on pages 120-21.^Coelogyne is a pseudobulbous, evergreen, sympodial epiphyte.

It varies considerably with the species, the bulbs of C. cristatebeing short, plump, and well-rounded, while those of C. Pan-durata are flattened, compressed, and distichous. The flowers areoddly attractive and of crisp texture, growing freely on racemescoming from the center of the new growths, and usually havingsepals broader than the smaller petals. An intermediate or coolhouse will serve. (Listing and descriptions of species of this genusmay be found on page 121.)

The genus Lycaste is a sympodial epiphyte, attractive and easyto grow. It has thick pseudobulbs and short, ribbed leaves, and insome species the flowers are extremely large for the size of the

plant. There is a wide color range, from deep pink to greenish-brown; the texture is exquisite and glistening; and the shape isoddly like a half-open rosebud. It is strictly a native of the tropicalWestern Hemisphere. It may be accommodated in a cool or in-termediate house. (Listing and descriptions of species of this genusmay be found on pages 121-2.)

Maxillaria, of chiefly botanical interest, is a genus very similar

to Lycaste; in fact, it was formerly confused with that genus. Itis a monopodial epiphyte with many close-growing, rounded,slightly flattened pseudobulbs, and it blooms prolifically, with tinyflowers. The leaves are usually grass-like. An intermediate houseserves. (Listing and descriptions of species of this genus may befound on page 122.)

Cycnoches is a lovely genus that has been neglected by Ameri-can growers. The plants have heavy, woody pseudobulbs. The


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24 graceful foliage is frequently shed in the winter. In fact, floweringis such a strain on the plant that the old bulb often gives all itsstrength to the new growth, and then shrivels and dies. An in-

judicious use of water is disastrous. The plant produces large,

handsome flowers whose shape has earned for it the graceful name'swan's neck orchid.' The flowers are so unusual and beautiful thatthey are worth any amount of labor involved in encouraging themto bloom. According to Lindley, C. ventricosum produces male,female, and neuter flowers in the same scape. It enjoys the hothouse with Vandas and Phalaenopsis. (Listing and descriptions of species of this genus may be found on page 122.)

Catasetum is a genus that is of special interest not because of its beauty, but because of the weird shape of its flowers and theamazing contrivances used in pollination. It is seldom seen in col-lections. It is definitely epiphytic, producing aerial roots in pro-fusion; it is sympodial and native to Central America. When theplant was originally found, it was thought that the male flower-producing plant and the female were two separate species. Green,

yellow, and brown predominate in the color scheme of the flowers.An intermediate house serves.

Trichopelia is another genus, of largely botanical interest. Theplants are dwarf and evergreen. They have fleshy pseudobulbsand leaves and showy, curiously shaped flowers, usually bearingtubular-shaped lips. An intermediate or hot house will serve.

/Listing and descriptions of species may be found on page 122.)

Masdevallia is a large genus which is remarkable principally forthe weird and fantastic shape taken by its flowers. It is native totropical America. It is sympodial and both terrestrial and epi-phytic. Its creeping rhizome and shiny leaves take the place of pseudobulbs. The flowers resemble unearthly insects, with long,tapering, curled sepals and a tubular or contorted lip, which ismost frequently white. An intermediate house will serve.


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Chysis is a small genus containing only about eight species. Itis epiphytic, evergreen, and pseudobulbous. It has showeringflowers, which have a divided lip with a spreading skirt-like base,and erect side lobes, lightly curving together, with a hooded

effect. (Listing and descriptions of some of the species of thisgenus may be found on page 123.)

Renanthera, a native of India and the South Pacific islands, isa genus of epiphytic and distichous growth and a difficult rovinghabit. Some of the species have $howy flowers, but they are diffi-cult to grow. It may be accommodated in a hot house. (Listingand descriptions of species of this genus may be found on page 123.)

It may surprise and interest the amateur to know that Vanillais a genus of the orchid family. It is exceedingly difficult to grow,however, owing to its far-roving, vine-like habit of growth, and itinfrequently flowers in the temperate zone. It is monopodial, epi-phytic, and evergreen. It lacks pseudobulbs, but has heavy, fleshyleaves. The flowers are fairly large, but the plant must assumeconsiderable size before it will flower. The seed pods are thesource of vanilla. An intermediate or hot house will serve. (List-ing and descriptions of species of this genus may be found onpage 123.)


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3

Suitable Housing for Orchids

FROM the time of acquiring his first plant the beginner in orchidculture must learn much that is new and, perhaps equally impor-tant and difficult, unlearn much that applies to growing otherplants. For successful growth the orchid, like plants of the garden

variety, requires a proper balance of light, heat, water, and food.The proportion and quality of these elements are, however, radi-cally different for the orchid.

Most epiphytic orchids come from tropical or subtropical re-gions where there is abundant atmospheric moisture and wherethe intense sunlight is modified by dense foliage. Showy tropicalorchids, dwellers in rain-swept jungles, cling to trees and send outlong roots, seeking nourishment from moisture-soluble mineralsin the air and from humus in the forks of tree trunks. Otherorchids grow on bare rocks, where they are subjected to drench-ing rains and drying winds. The sun in the regions where suchorchids grow is tempered by the constantly drifting clouds thatbring the sudden showers. In transplanting orchids from theirdiverse habitats to civilization the grower is faced with a majorproblemsuitable housing.

There are some fortunate regions where housing presents littleor no difficulty. Hawaii boasts few or no indigenous orchids(opinions differ on the matter), but the climate makes it possibleto hang imported orchids in trees, with happy results. Australia

26


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SUITABLE HOUSING FOR ORCHIDS 27

has many native orchids and many localities accommodate im-ported orchids in bush-houses, the equivalent of American lath-houses. On the island of Ceylon and in some other tropical coun-tries a large foliaceous tree in the garden makes a splendid home

for many types of orchid. Central and South America are thehabitat of many of the finest members of the orchid family, andgardens abound in them. Even there, however, scale and otherpests must be kept under firm control. Regions with a climatesimilar to Southern California are ideally suited for growing, underlath, genera such as Cymbidium.

The climate of the major portions of North America, England,and the Continent, however, make some sort of heated glasshousenecessary. The balance needed by the orchid, although peculiarand exacting, can be provided if the requirements are understoodand provided for by the grower. The task is to provide conditionsparalleling those of the plant's native habitat, and to substituteothers when the natural environment cannot be approximated.The success of this procedure is demonstrated by the fact thatmany species grown in the glasshouse are far larger and more

beautiful than jungle-grown specimens. Natural conditions of temperature, atmospheric humidity, sun-

light, and free circulation of air must be reproduced for each spe-cies of orchid plant under cultivation if maximum production andquality of blooms are to be attained. This requires some sort of enclosure where each component of the balance can be properlycontrolled. There is perhaps no perfect answer to the problem of

housing. Each grower, guided by the experience of others, mustfind a solution according to his needs, desires, and resources. Occasionally someone will describe, with contagious enthu-

siasm, how he has grown orchids on the window sill of a kitchenor sun porch, and has even brought them to full bloom. It can bedone. Success depends on the ingenuity of the grower in impro-vising means for balance. Some amateurs have attained a measureof success by adapting a heated glass-enclosed porch. Others havegrown plants in the home over open pans of water resting on


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28

shelves in front of large windows. But it must be emphasizedthat only the most vigorous types of orchids will thrive or evenlive under such conditions.

The Wardian case is a solution of the orchid housing problem

for apartment-house dwellers and people living in congested areas.It may be a glass case, frequently piano-box shape, about twenty-four inches by twenty-eight inches and from twenty-four inchesto thirty-six inches high, provided with a thermostatically con-trolled heating system (an electric-light bulb, an electric coil underthe gravel of the tray, or even a brooder element will serve), witha water-tight pan covering the bottom to hold water or moistgravel to humidify the air, and with a means of controlling theventilation (a hinged front may be used for such aeration). Addi-tional moisture is sometimes secured by laying lamp wicks onprops with one end in the pan of water on the floor. An all-glassfloor-type showcase may be readily converted into a Wardiancase. More elaborate cases, specifically designed for orchid culture,are produced by several manufacturing firms. For the amateurwho wishes to grow only ten or twelve blooming-size plants orwho requires an incubator for orchid-seed culture and for growingseedlings in community pots a properly constructed Wardian casegives excellent service.

Now, although the owner of a Wardian case at first proclaimshis satisfaction, it is the very nature of an orchid grower thatsooner or later he should begin to yearn for a greenhouse. Thegreenhouse is essentially a glass-covered structure (into which the

grower may easily walk standing erect), equipped with the meansto control ventilation, temperature, humidity, and sunlight. Therange of choice extends from the lean-to (using the wall of adwelling as a common wall) and the simple amateur greenhouseto the conservatory with a lofty arched roof and the neat rows of trim commercial houses called ranges.

Before making a final decision in regard to the type and sizeof house, the amateur will be well advised to pause and considerhis needs and his ability to meet them. He should look ahead as


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far as possible, to build for tomorrow as well as today. Many anamateur has rushed headlong into building only to find that manycostly mistakes might have been avoided if he had put a littlethought and study into planning.

One thing, aside from burning enthusiasm for his hobby, setsthe orchidist apart as different and perhaps a trifle eccentrichisterrific acquisitiveness. Today he has one plant, the next daysomeone offers him a backbulb from 'my very best plant.' Herepots and divides what he has, indulges in a community pot of fine seedlings, trades here, buys there, and finally takes a chanceon importing a hundred or more species plants. Before he is aware

of what is happening the single plant has grown to a collectionthat is not small. Almost overnight his orchid-housing needs havebecome unexpectedly complex. If this contingency is not foreseenthe house will be outgrown before it has been completed.

It is difficult, as in all branches of orchid culture, to set downany hard-and-fast rules about the size of the greenhouse. Thismust be determined strictly by individual needs. Ideally one

square foot of bench space per plant is desirable. Orchid plantsvary greatly in size; they grow in containers ranging from thumbpots to large tubs, so that their space requirements differ. In gen-eral the plants in an amateur's collection will require from one-third to one square foot of bench space, with additional spaceallowed for future acquisitions. It might be safe to say that anine by twelve house can be made to hold about 150 plants with-

out too much crowding. The overcrowding of plants must beconsidered seriously, for overcrowding brings trouble in the formof pests, disease, and spotted flowers owing to poor air. The needof orchids for free circulation of air cannot be over-emphasized.

In the last analysis, the size of an orchid house will be deter-mined by the very practical considerations of available space, theamount of money the grower can spend, and the number of

plants to be housedeither now or in the future. Advantages of a small house are ease and economy of construction and mainte-


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30 nance. A somewhat larger house allows superior heating and ven-tilation control, with better air and less crowding.

Sample measurements for an amateur house might be fifteenby thirty feet with a ridge nine to ten feet high, the roof with

a pitch of about twenty-six and a half degrees, aisles not less thantwo and a half feet wide. The benches may be thirty to thirty-six inches highthe exact height governed by the comfortablereach of the grower. A thirty-six-inch bench on each side of athree-foot walk requires that the house be at least nine feet wide;a five-foot middle bench can be added if the house is sixteen feetwide.

After size, the next consideration in the plan is location, whichwill probably be dictated by elevation and the contour of theground. The house should be so located as to provide the mostsunshine. Shade can be attained by any number of means, but theright light comes only from the sun, for which there is no substi-tute. Contrary to popular belief the orchid is a sun-loving plant.It may exist, and even grow, without sun, but without an ade-

quate amount of sunlight it will not bloom. The needs of thedifferent genera extend from well-diffused light to full sunlight.For this reason a location should be chosen where plenty of sunis available. The amount can then be regulated by artificialmeans.

There has been much controversy over the relative merits of north-south versus east-west facing. There is no principle involved

herethe facing that gives the most sun is the best; but again thecontour of the ground is a determining factor. The problem of facing is not of great importance with a small house, since it isso nearly square, but the sun's path over a larger house shouldbe considered. Trees shading the location should be kept welltrimmed to let enough light through. Deciduous trees make excel-lent shade, for they are more or less bare in seasons when the

sun is weak while their full summer foliage coincides with theperiod when the sun's rays are strongest. It is not necessary for the lot to be level. The greenhouse may


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be raised on piers to compensate for a hillside or it may be builtin tiers with steps between. The foundation proper, however,must be level and firm. A good, level concrete foundation paysdividends in insuring firmness. Settling causes cracks in the glass;

cracks cause dripping; and drippings make for spotted flowersthegrower's tragedy. Additional firmness can be gained by sinkingeight- to ten-inch bolts into the wet concrete of the foundation,and then bolting the mudsill into place.

The next choice facing the amateur is between the home-builthouse and the many available sectional, ready-built greenhouses.Prefabricated houses, while possibly more expensive, are easilyerected and may save money by eliminating the mistakes preva-lent in the trial-and-error method of design. There is the addi-tional advantage that prefabricated houses are movable, beingbolted rather than nailed together. Greenhouse manufacturerssupply detailed plans and all materials for houses to be erectedby the grower or a carpenter.

There are many types of design, but the most economical andsatisfactory is the so-called 'even span' type where the roof slopes

uniformly down from both sides of a ridge to the eaves. This slopeshould never be less than six inches vertical to one foot hori-zontal; a lesser slope will invariably cause leakage during rainyweather, and, instead of running down the glass, condensed mois-ture will drop from the glass on to the plants below. If conden-sation grooves are milled in the sides of the bar supporting theroof glass, moisture condensing on the glass will be drawn off and

destructive dripping prevented. A lean-to construction, with the greenhouse attached to thebuilding along the high point of the glass roof, is sometimesnecessary. In this case there are certain difficulties to be over-come. It is difficult to make strictly weather-tight joints betweena lean-to and the building that forms one wall. It is often ad-visable to use a standard construction with one end attached tothe building and with the ridge at right angles to the building, asthis minimizes the difficulty of flashing at the building connec-tions. It should be borne in mind that the six-inch to one-foot


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32 roof pitch must also be provided for this type of greenhouse.

The best of construction plans may be frustrated by selectionof unsuitable materials. Orchidists of Europe and the British Em-pire have shown wisdom through their long orchid-raising expe-

rience by selecting only the most durable materials for greenhouseconstruction. Materials must be durable and suitable in relationto the specific conditions necessary for orchid growingagain thebalance of heat, humidity, and ventilation. From the days whenthe name 'stove' was first applied to the hothouse, brick has beenfavored for sidewalls, not only because of its durability but equallybecause it holds the moisture and stays cool in summer andwarm in winter. Cement, while not so popular, is almost as satis-factory and not so expensive. The continuous moisture conditionsthe choice of material for the frame and equipment. The wrongwood will rot and unprotected metal will rust. Pine and othersoft woods are definitely not usable, as many a misguided ama-teur, with his house disintegrating about him after a few shortyears, has found. The constant damping necessary for the healthof the plants causes rapid rot in the softer woods. On the Pacific

Coast the availability of redwood, with its resistance to damp andabuse, makes it the wood of choice. In the East and Midwest,Red Gulf cypress is favored for the same reasons. All metal usedshould be hot-dipped galvanized steel or brass in order to mini-mize corrosion.

While the nine-foot wide, two-bench greenhouse does notordinarily require additional framework to support the roof,

houses wider than this must be more substantial to carry theadditional weight, prevent sagging of roof bars, and resist wind.Galvanized steel pipe or structural steel is preferred for this pur-pose. Where the initial cost is the main consideration, wood maybe used, but it has a poor appearance and is likely to sag.

Roofing glass should be new and of good grade, since poor glassmay interfere with the quality of the light. Single-strength glass issuitable for use on the Pacific Coast or other localities wherethere are no snow loads or high winds to be guarded against.Double-strength glass should be used in more severe climates.


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Glass can be used in sizes from sixteen by eighteen inches toeighteen by twenty-four inches. It should be installed by beinglaid with lapped joints similar to those of a shingle roof, exceptthat the laps between should be only one-eighth to one-fourth of

an inch. Wider laps are not advisable because the capillary actionin the space between the lapped surfaces will cause leakage. In glazing the roof, beds of putty should first be placed on the

glass rabbets of previously primed wood roof bars, and the glasspressed into the putty so that the entire space between the glassand the bars is filled with putty. After each pane has been set inplace it should be secured to the bars by means of zinc glazingnails: one nail at the bottom to prevent the glass from slippingdown, and two more nails driven into the bars at either side tohold the glass firmly to the putty. After the glass has been se-cured, excess putty can be cut away flush with the glass insideand outside. It is poor practice to 'face putty' or place fillets of putty along the outside joints, as is usually done in glazing awindow sash in a building.

Any first-quality outside paint may be used for painting the

greenhouse. There is only one variation from standard practice inexterior painting: it is well to run the paint over the surfaces of putty and about one-eighth of an inch on to the glass in order toprolong the life of the putty. It might be well to varnish the puttyand let it dry before painting. Paint to be used inside the green-house should be selected with caution. It should be known to benon-toxic to the plants. The constant damp makes anything

soluble. Plants are so sensitive and the possible damage so in-sidious that the amateur is warned not to use any doubtful paint.Deleterious effects on orchids may not show up for six months toa year.

In the discussion of the plan so far, provision has been madefor maximum sun. There is still the problem of controlling theintensity of the sun, which is again a matter on which intensedebate rages among orchidists. The plants demand sun, but onlyexperience will enable the grower to steer the fine course betweenenough sun and the excessive amount that will burn.


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34 Generally speaking, the greenhouse glass may be kept clear for

only a few weeks in mid-winter. At all other times it is necessaryto provide shade of one sort or another, both to avoid excessivetemperature and to prevent burning. An attempt should be made

to approximate the degree of shade found in the natural habitatof the plants, where sunlight is filtered through layers of junglegrowth. The cheapest and easiest method of shading is to paintthe glass on the exterior with some mixture that admits consid-erable light and that may be easily removed in the late fall toadmit clear sun in winter. Either a mixture of white lead andgasoline or a white casein paint that will wash off is satisfactory

for this purpose. A much more satisfactory shading is secured by means of lath

slats supported eight to twelve inches above the roof surface.Most orchid plants thrive best in the kind of shading providedby laths, where moving bands of sunlight alternate with bands of shadow. Anyone who has seen orchids growing in the tropics willremember that effect of the sun. The slat shading also efficiently

moderates greenhouse temperature on blazing summer days. Anadjustable type of slat shading has been developed that variesthe amount of shade to suit the season and can be removedeasily for clear glass conditions in the winter (see page 39).

Some growers take an extra precaution against burning by tack-ing cheesecloth or sheer muslin about three inches below the ceil-ing inside. There is some disadvantage in this procedure, how-

ever, since the damp cloth furnishes an almost ideal place for thegrowth of fungus. The important matter of aeration is next to be considered.

Proper circulation of air is essential for the health of the plants.Under natural conditions drying winds keep the epiphytic rootssweet at all times. 'In captivity' the orchid roots are confined inpots and baskets, and the air of the greenhouse can easily become

'dead' and stuffy. Air-conditioning would seem the ideal solu-tion, but the grower must be mechanically inclined and ingeniousenough to invent a system of his own, for the few available ready-


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made systems are prohibitively expensive. Fortunately a well-planned ventilation system can bring the desired result except inextremely dry climates, and even in such localities a proper bal-ance between heat and moisture can bring a workable solution.

Vents placed along the roof ridge will provide sufficient air cir-culation. The openings should face away from prevailing winds,since a gentle movement rather than a draft is required. Theopenings may be operated by pushrods or the more elaborateworm-and-gear mechanism. Vents must overlap the openings tokeep out rain and snow, and they should be screened against in-sects. Greenhouses are often equipped with bottom vents, butthese are seldom used except in the case of certain genera likeCymbidium and Odontoglossum. Only experience will give thegrower an understanding of the kind of aeration that is best forhis particular collection in his particular circumstances. It is sur-prising how quickly, with conscientious observation, the growercomes to recognize the needs of his plants.

The major furnishing of the greenhouse interior is some kindof bench or table to support the plants. If certain basic require-

ments are fulfilled, the exact type of bench or staging is up to theindividual grower. Such stagings are, of course, subject to severemoisture conditions and should be built of durable wood, such asredwood or cypress, or other materials that will resist deteriora-tion. Cement is sometimes used but it lacks the advantages of drainage and aeration of the wood-slat type of bench.

Slat-deck or table-type benches may be built of boards or of one

by two inch slats placed % of an inch apart. Some growers usea double-deck bench. The lower deck holds water-absorbentgravel, coke or Haydite for humidifying purposes. Over thisthere is a slat deck for plants supported by galvanized-steel pipelegs. The tiered bench, built like steps with eight-inch treads andrisers, has the advantage of accommodating about ten per centmore plants per foot of floor area, but the grower in wateringwith this arrangement must be prepared for difficulty. Benchesthat are to hold small pots should have a raised rim to preventplants from being knocked to the floor.


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36 Insect-proofing of the greenhouse is vital, as anyone who has

seen the depredations of pests among orchids can testify. Benchesshould be set a short distance from the wall and the legs may beset in some kind of holdera cement form or even a Pyrex bak-

ing cupcontaining insecticide. Scale and fungi have a diabolicaltendency to attack the part of a plant against the wall and out of reachhence the warning that benches should be 'reach' width.

Floors should preferably be raised a few inches above the sur-rounding ground to provide drainage. One or two inches of gravelover earth (round or pea gravel is most satisfactory) makes thebest type of floor, since it dries out quickly on the surface while

retaining moisture underneath. Such a floor helps maintain properhumidity when it is wet down on hot days.

Walks may be of brick or rough concrete. Durable wood walksare more comfortable to stand on and, if constructed of slats, willdry out rapidly enough. They do, however, provide hiding placesfor slugs and other pests, including rats. Aisles between benchesshould be wide enough so that one may walk comfortably with-

out fear of breaking off new shoots, damaging flowers, or knock-ing down pots.

Heating is perhaps the most vexing problem concerning orchidhousing. Fear of heating failure, which may leave orchids exposedto the disastrous cold of freezing weather, causes the sleeplessnights of many an orchidist. One amateur has gone so far as tohave an alarm bell rigged up in his bedroom to warn of any heat-

ing failure. Most of the worry can be avoided if enough thoughtgoes into a heating plan well in advance of construction. Visitsto the houses of other growers, discussions with them of themerits of different systems, conferences with a local plumber orheating expert, and investigation of available material will beworth all the time and effort so spent.

The simplest heating systems can be considered only expedi-

entssome of them dangerous ones. The fumes of a kerosenestove are disagreeable to humans but a few orchids in a tinyhouse will not find them so. The kerosene stove is excellent in


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I i. Brassia Gireoudiana. Costa Rica (Courtesy Orchid Digest)

I 2. Stanhopca Wardii. Guatemala (Alberto Perez;courtesy Orchid Digest)

I 3. Mormodes colossus. Central America (Courtesy Orchid Digest)


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II i. Cattleya velu-tina. Brazil (Al-berto Perez; cour-tesy Orchid Digest)

II 2. Brassavola no-dosa. Central Amer-ica (Alberto Perez;courtesy Orchid Di-gest)

II 3. OncidiumForbesii. Brazil(Harry Blossfeld;courtesy Orchid Di-gest)

II 4. Odontoglos-sum grande. Guate-mala (L. F. Haw-kinson; courtesyOrchid Digest)

II. 5. Miltonia vex-illaria. Colombia(O. O. Uhle; cour-tesy Orchid Digest)

II 6. Odontoglos-sum citrosmum.Mexico (CourtesyOrchid Digest)


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Ill Dendrobium Farmeri. India, Burma (Courtesy Orchid Digest)


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IV 4. Vanda coernltNorth India, Burn(O. O. Uhle; courteOrchid Digest)

IV 6. Dendrobium superbui Philippine Islands (A. B. Wlonghby; courtesy Orchid Digea

IV i. Cycnoches chlorochilon. Colombia (L. F. Ha'kinson; courtesy Orchid Digest)

IV 2. Lycastc brevispatbsyn. Candida. Central Amt

ica (A. B. Willoughbcourtesy Orchid Digest)

IV 3. Phalaenopsis stuartiana. Philippine Islands (RDavis)

IV 5. Coelogync Huettncriana.Burma (Alex D. Hawkes; courtesyOrchid Digest)


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V Vanda Sanderiana. Found only on Mindanao, Philippine Islands (Harold Johnson)


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VI 2. Double-deck orchidbench construction

VI 3. Wardian case usedorchid seed culture (FBams)

VI 1. An amateur's orchidhouse wi th g rave l f loordouble-deck wall benchstepped center bench

Wardian case for seedling

at rear


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VII 1. Slat shading (for description see page 39) (I.. F. Hawkinson; courtesy Orchid Digest)

1. Side-view slat shading (J. J. Wilson; courtesy Orchid Digest)

/II 3. Sketch of heat-ng plant (for descrip-ion see pages 37-8) LeeBrooks and J. J.Vilson)

4'X 1 1/8' LATH SPACED /'APART

WINGNUT

PlPfFLAUGE


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VIII The chicken ladder (Jeanne F. Brown) Any orchidist who has used an ordinary ladder for the purpose of replacing broken glass ohis greenhouse roof will welcome this 'chicken ladder.' The ladder rests across 2 glazing bai

(2) on horizontal strips (3) and is securely hooked over the ridge of the house (4). It may tpushed easily along the ridge when change of position is required. The steps of the ladder ( =are nailed to the redwood slab (6). The ventilator (7) is shown closed, and at (7a) is showopen under the ladder.

SHOWING HOW LADDER. RESTS ON 2 GLAZING BARS

(I) CHICKEN LADDER.

(7) VENTILATOR

PERSPECTIVE VIEW

OF CHICKEN LADDER.

(+) I** 2." RIOGE lV6"STRIP NAILED TO THE Z"2"OR 2** " (J) HORIZONTALSTRIP

NAILED ON II" OR iCCENTERS

l" x |4" SLA8 OF RIGID REDWOOD OR.OREGON PINE. (IF SLAZINS BARS BETWEENGLASS ARE MORE OR LESS THAN IZ*

SLAB WIDTH CAN BE MORE OR LESSACCORDINGLY.)

(6)

(3) 2T-2- OR 2>4"HORIZONTAL STRIP TOREST ON Z BARS AT EAVIAT CENTER, 5UPPOCT, ANAT RIDGE.

CROSS SECTION OFCHICKEN LADDER


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IX i. Odontonia Cardinalis, F.C.C.R.H.S. (Miltonia Lyceana F.C.C. x OdontoglossmnPurple Queen) (L. F. Hawkinson; courtesy Orchid Digest)

IX 2. Cymbidium Swallow Perfection (C. Alexander! Westonbirt var, x C. Pauwclsiivar. Comte de Hemptinnc) (Alex D. Hawkcs)


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X i. Cypripediiim Loin's Crampron

X 2. Cypripedium Cheddington (C.Wilson; courtesy Orchid Digest)

XI Potting Cattleyas (O. O. Meek; coitesy Orchid Digest) 1. Plant in need of repotting. Notice troots breaking from front leadideal tiito repot. 2. The plant is taken from the pot, aithe decayed material removed. The bacbulbs, which have no roots, may be cfrom the plant and started in gravel, whthe dormant eye may break and produa new plant.3. Well-potted plant with old bulbs clcto edge of pot, fore-bulb leaving room f new growth. Rhizome lies flat across p(ting medium.4. Incorrectly potted plant growing uward from potting medium and over ed ;of pot.


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XII 3. Cattley;Mossiae x Laeliocattleya Rabeian;(Jack'Wood)

XII 2. Seedlings (Jack Wood)

XII 4. Potinara RubyStuart Low,1934 (Charles O. Dunne; courtesyOrchid Digest)

XII 1. From flask seedlings tiblooming plant (Jack Wood)


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XIII From seed to embryo (M. A. Bunow; courtesy Orchid Digest) 1. Seed as from pod, showing fertile and infertile seed2. Seed 8 days after planting, showing beginning tubercles but no enlargement3. Seed 8 days after planting, showing enlargement but no tubercles

4. Seed at 10 days5. Seed at 11 days6. Seed at 12 days, tubercles showing at side7. Seed at 14 days, showing embryo breaking through capsule and flattened areafrom which first leaf will appear8. Seed at 16 days. Embryo free from capsule9. Typical embryo at 18 days, free from capsule


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XIV Brassocattleya H. G. Alexander (Cattleya citrina x Brassavola Digbyana) (Robert Johnso


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XV Brassocattleya Ilartland (L. F. Hawkmson; courtesy Orchid Digest)


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XVI 1. Laeliocattleya Elissa (Harold Johnson)XVI 2. Laeliocattleya Dulzura (Ruth M. Todd)


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SUITABLE HOUSING FOR ORCHIDS 37 case of emergency, and many an amateur has set the alarm forthe middle of the night to refill the stove against the cold. A typeof gas floor furnace, well vented and with the flame not directlyopen to the house, has been found satisfactory for the small green-house. Humidity must be maintained to offset dryness. Open gasheaters are a menace in the greenhouse, for if the flame is acci-dentally put out the fumes will quickly kill the plants. Electricheaters are too drying and too concentrated for plants near byand do not provide enough warmth for plants some distanceaway.

More elaborate systems are required for a completely satisfac-

tory solution of the heating problem. For areas where the tem-perature does not fall below zero, hot-water systems operated bythermostatically controlled gas are very satisfactory. Where severewinters prevail, hot-water or steam systems with coal or oil burnerswill be required. There are many types from which to choose, butonly one can be examined here in any detail. The simple gravitysystem has been found very efficient for small greenhouses (nine

by twelve feet to twelve by fifteen feet). The best pipe for this orany system is the one and a half or two-inch hot-dipped galvan-ized, rust-resistant type. Black pipe is a good conductor of heatbut is more susceptible to rust from the constant damp. In thesketch (Plate vn) the gas enters through a valve (1) and goesto the solenoid valve (2) (controlled by the thermostat [11]).From there it goes to the copper coil side-arm heater (coils shouldbe at least % inch), which is controlled by a pilot light. Waterenters the heater through the shut-off valve (7), which is closedafter the pipes are filled. A valve (6) is used to drain the system.The water passes through the coils and rises as it is heated to thehighest point (A). As the water heats, it expands, forcing someup into the expansion tank (9), which is open to the air at 10.Gravity carries the water to B, a drop of one-half in three inchesbeing allowed. From B the water falls to the pipe (D-D), which

is level with the ground, causing equal amounts of water to flowto both points. Water then flows from D down both sides of thehouse and back to F under the same drop as it did from A to B.


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38 From F there is another drop back to the heater and the processis repeated. A water outlet (8), outside the shut-off valve, is pro-vided for watering the house.

The 'closed' system is similar to the 'open' system outlined

above, but has a reduction valve from the city system and shouldhave a 'bleeder' so that the maximum water pressure in the pipedoes not exceed 28 pounds pressure per square inch. The disad-vantage of this layout is that heat may be lost by backing up intothe city system.

The side-arm heater system with two-inch pipe is only suitedfor a small house in a mild climate. For the larger house in a

mild climate it may be operated by a boiler or Arcola type of heater. Where temperatures drop below zero the pipe should befour inches, and heat should be supplied by an oil or coal boiler.The gravity system is probably not practical for the larger house.In such circumstances a circulating pump can be used to forcethe water through the pipe. The pump must be kept in goodcondition, for, if it should freeze, water will not circulate and theboiler may explode. The chimney should be taller than the roof and designed to keep injurious fumes from the house. Many ama-teurs use the shed housing their heater as a potting shed. It isconveniently placed for this purpose and will be warm in winter.

These plans are not for the 'ideal' greenhouse, if there is anysuch thing. The ideal, of course, would be three greenhouses. Thefirst would be for the cool-

Documents

How to Grow Beautiful Orchids