How to Build a Greenhouse Six Parts:Choosing a LocationChoosing a StructureChoosing Covering MaterialsConstructing the

FrameControlling TemperatureAdditional Greenhouse Planning

A greenhouse is a structure that produces a microclimate ideal for plant growth. It

can be used to start plants or house them throughout their life. Building a

greenhouse is a large project to tackle; however, it can be done on a budget or by

professional builders.

Part 1 of 6: Choosing a Location

1.

1

Choose a south facing area. The main element required for a greenhouse is good

consistent sunlight.

All structures should be to the north of the greenhouse.

One of the main greenhouse structures is a lean-to. Choosing a south wall of a

building is a good option.

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2.

2 Give preferences to locations that have morning sun over afternoon

sun.Although all-day sun is the best option, opening up the area to morning light will

increase the growth of the plants.

If there are trees or bushes near the greenhouse location, ensure they do not give a

shadow until late afternoon.

3.

3 Pay attention to winter versus summer sun. If the area to the east is open and

sunny, it will get more sun November through February. [1]

Winter sun has a lower angle, so trees, houses and other structures are more likely

to pose a problem.

Do not choose a location near evergreen trees. Deciduous trees lose their leaves

and will not shade the location in the winter, when the greenhouse requires more

sun.

4.

4 Choose a location that has access to electricity. Most greenhouses require some

heat and ventilation to keep the temperature optimal.

If you build a lean-to, you may be able to extend power from the house.

A separate building may require hiring an electrician.

5.

5 Pick a well-drained area. You will need to syphon away excess rainwater.

If your location is uneven, you may need to fill in the area to encourage drainage.

You may be able to use cisterns to catch rainwater falling from the eaves of your

greenhouse. Any conservation of water and electricity will help keep greenhouse

costs low.

Part 2 of 6: Choosing a Structure

1.

1 Measure your location. Whether you build the greenhouse from scratch or build it

with a kit, you should choose the size carefully.

The larger the greenhouse, the more money it will cost to build and heat.

The most popular greenhouse size is 8 by 6 feet (2.4 by 1.8 m). [2]

2.

2 Choose a greenhouse kit, if you have little experience building or few people

to help you erect the greenhouse.

You can get a pop-up or polycarbonate greenhouse from home improvement stores

and Amazon for as little as $150.

Larger, sturdier models range from $500 to $5,000 depending upon size.

Look at websites like Costco.com, Home Depot, or Greenhouses.com.

3.

3 Make a lean-to. If you have chosen an area against a building, you may as well

construct a simple lean-structure that uses the remaining wall as support.

If you have a brick structure, the heat from the building can help you keep a steady,

warm temperature.

This is a fairly easy structure to make yourself. You can support it with rebar,

wooden beams and fewer supports that an offset building. [3]

4.

4 Build a Quonset frame. This is a domed ceiling that can be made with steel

supports or PVC tubing.

The domed shape means there is less head and storage space that rectangular

models.

This shape can be built with little cost; however, the less expensive the material, the

less sturdy it is likely to be.

5.

5 Pick a rigid frame. With this design, you will need a foundation and a frame. Unless

you are a designer, you will want to buy a plan for a greenhouse or employ someone

to build it.

A rigid frame, post and rafter or A-frame greenhouse will need a foundation and a

sturdy frame.

You will need the help of friends or employees to help you build a large framed

greenhouse.

Part 3 of 6: Choosing Covering Materials

1.

1 Use UV stabilized polyethylene. The light transmission is similar to glass, although

it is light and inexpensive.

Plastic film has to be replaced every few years.

It must be washed occasionally.

It will not hold heat as well as glass, but is adequate for lean-tos, Quonsets and

small stand-alone framed greenhouses.

2.

2 Use hard, double-walled plastic.

Polycarbonate can be curved slightly around the frame and it has an energy savings

of up to 30 percent, because it is double-walled.

80 percent of light filters through.

3.

3 Buy fiberglass. If you are building a framed greenhouse, you can save money by

choosing fiberglass over glass.

Choose clear fiberglass.

It will need a new coat of resin every 10 to 15 years.

Invest in higher-grade fiberglass. Light transmission is greatly reduced on low-grade

fiberglass.

4.

4 Choose glass. This is the most attractive material, if you are building a greenhouse

that will accentuate your house or garden.

Glass is very fragile and is expensive to replace.

You must build a framed greenhouse with a foundation.

Tempered glass is preferable because it is stronger than regular glass.

If you are going to the expense of installing a glass greenhouse, you should consider

bids from construction companies to ensure the foundation and frame can handle the

weight.

Part 4 of 6: Constructing the Frame

1.

1 Use strings along the ground to measure where you want the supports to be

set. Pound stakes in the ground

2.

2 Reinforce with rebar. If you are building a lean-to or Quonset, you can reinforce

your frame with rebar and PVC.

Pound rebar into the ground every 4 feet (1.2 m). Leave 48 inches (121.9 cm)

protruding from the ground.[4]

Once the rebar is set, you can loop 20-foot sections of PVC to create your frame.

Stretch your plastic film over the frame and attach it to beams at the bottom.

3.

3 Pour gravel on the ground in an even layer, after your supports are driven into

the ground. Small, loose gravel allows for extra drainage in a greenhouse

environment.

Hire builders to pour concrete, if you need a foundation. They will need to bring in

concrete forms and pour the floor of your greenhouse before it can be framed.

4. 4

Treat any wood you use before using it.

Untreated wood can degrade in as little as 3 years. [5]

Choose your wood treatment carefully. Some wood treatments require that the food

is no longer listed as organic, because of the use of chemicals.

Consider a treatment like Erdalith, which has limited leaching properties.

Use metal supports in place of wood supports whenever possible.

5.

5 Seal the covering to the frame as closely as you can. You may be able to simply

bolt film to wood.

The more expensive the covering, such as glass, fiberglass, or double walled plastic,

the more time you should take to seal it to the foundation and frame.

Research the best procedure for the covering of your choice.

Part 5 of 6: Controlling Temperature

1.

1 Place fans in the corners of the greenhouse. Set up fans so that they are

diagonal.

They should run almost constantly during the winter months, to ensure the entire

greenhouse is benefiting from the heater.

2.

2 Install vents in the ceiling of your greenhouse. They can also be located near the

top of the supports.

Some ventilation of carbon dioxide is essential.

The vents should be adjustable. You will need to open them wider in the summer

months.

3.

3 Consider installing an electric heater. Solar heat may only account for 25 percent

of the heat in your greenhouse, so a backup heater is essential.

You can also use a wood or oil-based heater, but it must be vented to the outside to

ensure good air quality.

You should check with your town or council to see what heating options are available

in your area.

4.

4 Install a forced-air system, if you are using a glass-frame greenhouse. If you

can afford to outfit your greenhouse with its own temperature control system, then

you can set it up to grow almost anything.

Employ an electrician and a contractor to install your system.

It may need regular maintenance to ensure it can handle ventilation and heating in

the winter.

5.

5 Install thermometers or thermostats. You should install several thermometers in

case 1 breaks.

Place them at different levels of the greenhouse so that you can observe the

temperature in your greenhouse at all times.

You can buy a thermometer that measures the temperature inside your house and

inside your greenhouse, so that you can watch it closely during the winter months.

Part 6 of 6: Additional Greenhouse Planning

1.

1 Study planting conditions for the plants you want to grow. The more sensitive

the plant is to changes in heat, the less likely you will be able to grow other plants in

the same section.

A cool house is a greenhouse designed to keep plants from freezing. It is ideal for

temporary greenhouses.

A hot house is a greenhouse designed to keep plants in tropical temperatures.

You will need to choose what the temperature will be and keep it steady. It is not

possible to create different zones in an open greenhouse.

2.

2 Ensure you have a steady water supply. Ideally it should be supplied by hose

water and cisterns.

3. 3

Construct raised beds inside your greenhouse. Slatted tables can be used in the

meantime, since they will allow water to drain through the table and into the gravel.

If possible, construct the beds to the primary gardeners height to limit ergonomic

problems.

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Things You'll Need

Greenhouse kit

Measuring tape

Wood beams

Gravel

Glass

Fiberglass

Double-walled plastic

Fiberglass

PVC

Rebar

Power tools

String

Stakes

Erdalith wood treatment

Fans

Thermometers

Electric, gas or wood heater

Vents

Cisterns

Water

Beds

Potting tables

Sources and Citations

1. http://www.wvu.edu/~agexten/hortcult/greenhou/building.htm

2. http://home.howstuffworks.com/lawn-garden/professional-landscaping/alternative-

methods/greenhouse6.htm

3. http://home.howstuffworks.com/lawn-garden/professional-landscaping/alternative-

methods/greenhouse4.htm

4. http://www.laspilitas.com/garden/howto/greenhouse.html

5. http://www2.ca.uky.edu/agc/pubs/aen/aen6/aen6.htm

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Categories: Landscaping and Outdoor Building

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