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STYLE. ARCHITECTURE. GASTRONOMY. DESIGN
houseby
House of Billiam
Editorial
Harriet FrancisEditor
Addie ChinnContributing Editor
Max ReynerContributing Editor
Freddie JanssenContributing Editor
Chloe RahallStylist
Ian SenPhotographic Journalist
Erika SymondsPhotographer
Simeon BirdArt Director
Publishers
William RoweCEO & Founder
Jo JacksonManaging Director
Kirsty DareCommercial Director
Neil LazarooArt Director
Sales
Richard Robinson (London)[email protected]
Grace Davies (London)[email protected]
Bridie Woodward (New York)[email protected]
Nate Tower (New York)[email protected]
William Buckley (New York)[email protected]
Nardisse Ben Mebarek (Paris)[email protected]
The Breakthrough IssueHOUSE is the sister project of House Of Billiam, a British company designing bespoke streetwear using the best of British tailoring and fabrics. “House” is the non-bespoke side, created for those who want durability and style without the extautionate price that comes in hand. The quarterly House paper is designed to give you an insight into House culture, what we’re into and what we’re discovering. Quite honestly, it’s a tasteful way to get our designs out there whilst informing you on London’s undisclosed information covering art & design, gastronomy, music and various other cultural content. We hope that from reading this paper you’ll see more of your city, impressing women with your insider knowledge on the finest restaurants whilst looking dapper in that new House shirt you’ll be wearing.Our first issue covers the topics focused on photography, gastronomy and New York. As House stemmed from its sister street-wear brand ‘House of Billiam’ we thought it was important to centre the pilot issue around the city that pioneered hip-hop and street-wear culture; giving you an insight into down town New York during the early cult days of the 1980’s.
Our best,
houseHarriet FrancisEditor In Chief
MUSIC
UNKNOWN MORTAL ORCHESTRAThe more we got to know Ruban Nielson over the past year, the more compelling he be-came; an outspoken, opinionated frontman, and, even rarer in the indie rock realm, a truly badass guitar player as well.Expect scuffed vocals and inventive melodies and a rhythmic vocabulary that draws equally and naturally from psych rock, hard funk, and soul. It’s the work of an assured craftsman with a preferred set of sonic parameters, and shows off the band’s development in a lucid, loose fashion.
FEBRUARY PLAYLIST
MUSIC
Toro Y Moi – Say That
Justin Timberlake – Suit & Tie featuring JAY Z
Unknown Mortal Orchestra – So Good at Being in Trouble
Ducktails – Under Cover
Solar Year – Magic Idea
Autre Ne Veut – Play by Play
Ghost Poet – Survive It
Amateur Best – Get Down
The Knife – Full Of Fire
Parquet Courts – Borrowed Time
Farewell J.R – Night Wolves
Short Stories – On the Way
Only Real – Blood Carpet
Veronica Falls – If You Still Want Me
Everything Everything – The House Is Dust
What we’ve been listening to in the House of Billiam studio
Condsider this the Pilot of one of our regular monthly playlists (catch on-line between issues) Featured this month we have American musician and producer Toro Y Moi, the much-debated comeback track from Justin Tim-berlake, a new release from everyone’s favourite The Knife and our album
of the month Unknown Mortal Orchestra.
PROFILE
FACE TO FACEISRAEL AND PALESTINE PHOTOGRAPHER & ARTISTJR
In 2012 the Palestine and Israeli Face2Face project began; photographer & TED prize winner JR joined forces with his friend Marco to organise the largest illegal photography exhibition ever created.
JR is the name of a photographer and artist whose identity is unconfirmed due to his bold work being challenging and, as professional and talented as he is, illegal. Born in France, he calls himself a ‘photograffeur’ which exemplifies his work; pasting large black and white photographic images in heavily public locations, similar to the act of graffiti. JR’s work often challanges widely held preconceptions, as well as the manipulation of the media. For JR’s latest project, he and Marco (friend) pasted large, monumental photographs of Palestines and Israeli’s next to eachother in several cities across Isreal and Palestine. The pair travelled to the Middle East in 2011 to try and figure out a way for Palestines and Israeli’s to be united, harminously. They travelled through the Palestinian and Israeli cities without speaking much. Simply looking at ‘this world’ in amazement. A holy place for Judaism, Christianity and Islam. A tiny area where you can see mountains, sea, deserts and lakes, loathing, hope, and despair all embedded together. After travelling they came to the conclusion that “the people look the same; they speak almost the same language, like twin brothers raised in different families. A religious covered woman has her twin sister on the other side. A farmer, a taxi driver, a teacher, has his twin brother in front of him. And he is endlessly fighting with him.” It’s obvious, but Palestinians and Israeli’s don’t see it in that way, so JR and Marco decided to put them face to face, the intention being that on first inspection, the public would not realise that the two people are from two opposing cul-tures, which is the point. The Face2Face project consists of portraits of Palestinians and Israeli’s who are doing the same job, for instance a taxi driver or a nurse, and seeing them face to face, in huge formats, in unavoidable places, on both Israe-li and Palestinian sides. JR explains his essential aim for the project is “We want, at last, for everyone to laugh and to think by seeing the portrait of the other next to his own portrait, he will start to consider the collision between the two.” JR continues to portray his work in precarious, urban spaces across the world, working on various projects, one where by the public, you, can send him an image of your choosing, for him to maximise and send back to you in a print ready for you to boldly paste in your own choice of location (one print is subjective to groups of no less than four). Check out his work at www.jr-art.net.
PROFILE
FEED
LISTEN CAREFULLY
Created by Jonas Breme at the University of Applied Science in Potsdam, Listen Carefully is an interactive design project that addresses an issue that Jonas believes is serious: that listening to music has switched from being an active to a passive activity. Frustrated by the fact that music has become for many the backdrop to their lifestyles, Breme designed a pair of headphones that puts music firmly in the foreground.
His custom ‘sensitive’ ear phones force users to focus purely on what they are listening to by turning the music off if the user moves. Equipped with a built in acceleormeter, a digital potentiometer and an Arduino Montor, any movements picked up by the headphones causes the playback volume to drop, forcing the users to sit still relax and enjoy. While the headphones may be the wrong choice for listening to dance music, the project is an interesting concept which ties into the trend of Digital Downtime and helps us question our current forms of consumption.
Moving into Spring/Summer 2013, east London store LN-CC have revealed a fresh store fit fea-turing two completely new areas. Replacing the original octagonal wooden constructs, the main "Secular Space" now features futuristic mirrored shelving and soft lighting to display their foot-wear and leather goods, while the private in-store bar "Chameleon" now has geometric wood panelling and dimmed lighting to juxtapose the ambience of the shopping environment. Brands available from LN-CC include Balenciaga, Lan-vin, Givenchy and niche designers like Myriam Schaefer.
LNCC STORE REVOLUTION
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THE WORLD’S FIRST 3D PRINTED HOUSE
With all the hype currently surrounding 3D printing and its seemingly endless capabilities, the race has started to build the world’s first 3D printed house. London architecture company Softkill Design joined that race the other day by announcing plans for a plastic dwelling that could be built off-site in just three weeks, claiming it could then be assembled in just a single day. “It will hopefully be the first actual 3D printed house on site,” said Gilles Retsin of Softkill Design. “We are hoping to have the first prototype out in the summer.”
Measuring in at 8 metres wide and four metres long, the single storey “Protohouse 2.0” will be printed in a factory and then transported by van to be “snapped together” on site. “You don’t need any bolting, screwing, or welding on site,” says Retsin. “Imagine a Velcro or button-like connection. The pieces are extremely light, and they just kind of click together so you don’t need any other material.”
LEICA X HERMES DESIGN
This impeccably designed camera is the offspring of the long awaited col-laboration between Hermes and Leica. It’s entirely hand made, even down to the case, packaging, and its own Hermes camera bag. With only 100 in production, this will be a much sought after collectors item.
HACKNEY STUDIO
UPDATE: WHAT’S BEEN HAPPENING IN THE HOUSE STUDIO
Agi, one of the designers for Agi&Sam, dropped in to sample some of the new HOUSE collection and place a cheeky order before stock goes on sale (top left & right). We make our first AW13 suit using Scotland based JC Rennie&Co wool suppliers (centre), who are one of Britians highest qual-ity wool manufacturers. Since we set out on the relaunch we’ve been all about sourcing traditional heritage fabrics and have been working closely with a lot of the tweed and woolen mills that still exist in Scotland, Yorkshire - the traditional roots of the industry. Upon visiting we’ve come across a range of quality traditional fabrics such as the Melton and the tweeds; we’re now working with Harris Tweed on one of our styles. Our aim is to start collecting such traditional fabrics and design them for a more contemporary fit and styling. Catch a sneak preview of our Scottish collection and our photo-documented journey across the English countryside and Scottish highlands in the next House issue.
PREPERATIONS FOR THE AW13 COLLECTION
HACKNEY STUDIO
Manufacture and Industry is a blog run buy two guys from up North, they travel the British Isles documenting the craftmanship and history of products made in Britain, and we were delighted that they’d decided to give us a visit. More on this in our next issue as we post the intervew and pictures, for now check out their blog and get to know what fine establishments this country has to offer.
Studio Visit:Manufacture & Industry
Sneak Preview of fabrics used for the new collection. (Below and above) Liberty London lining, (to the right) Colour chart for our prestigious lambs nappa leather, which will be used for the new biker jackets.
Camino Kings Cross
With its refreshing pan con tomate, heady but-ter-drenched garlic prawns and plentiful portions of unctuouscured ham all proving their worth, this proves itself as one of Londons finest Tapas spots.
Grill On The Market Smithfield
3 Varnishers Yard, The Regent Quarter, Kings Cross
Nestled along side the grand Victorian halls of histor-ic Smithfield Meat Market, GOM definitely lives up to it’s historic surroundings, this joint offers London’s most sensational meats.
Meat Liquor Soho
We feel the Meat Liquor pioneerd the now on trend burger restaurants popping up around Lon-don, having been to the majority, we still rate Meat Liquor as the best. (Well worth the queue).
Bistroteque Bethnal Green
74 Welbeck St London W1G 0BA
A fine dining experience set in an industrial ware-house, the atmosphere is unbeatable for an uncli-che good dinner date. Delectable French menu with a small, well selected, cocktail list.
23 Wadeson St, Tower Hamlets, E2 92-3 W Smithfield London EC1A 9JX
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OUR FAVOURITE LONDON RESTAURANTS
74 Welbeck St London W1G 0BA
23 Wadeson St, Tower Hamlets, E2 9
Pitt Cue Soho The Globe Colombia Road
If the fact that they have a meat dish called ‘The Thunderdome’ doesn’t convince you this place is worth visiting then the throngs of people queuing outside every night, certainly should.
1 Newburgh St, London W1F 7RB
Quiet and unassuming, it wouldn’t be hard to miss this little Bulgarian pub eatery. Don’t though, be-cause missing it’s £6 for a delicious pizza and beer deal would be tragic.
Stingray Globe Cafe, Shoreditch, London E2 7RL
Buttermilk fried chicken and pine salt at The Ten Bells
THE TEN BELLS
Nothing could trump this pick in Ferbruary’s food selection. Upstairs at The Ten Bells is a British restaurant above the historic pub in Spittalfields. A joint formed from the legendary three who started The Clove Club and The Young Turks, what was meant to be a three month pop up received so much attention it’s now perma-nent. Enjoy delicious, fresh, seasonal British food with a twist. The iconic, strange but incredible small plates are not to be missed.
84 Commercial St London E1 6LY
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LOOK BOOK
Sometimes a nice glass of whiskey is all you need. Be it to fight off an illness, an antidote to a break up, to warm your insides when treking the Alps or to simply relax and enjoy; make your whiskey Monkey Shoulder whis-key. Our choice of bottle here at the House studio. It’s delicious. We feel Not much more needs to be said here but ‘cheers’.
Monkey Shoulder Whiskey
LOOK BOOK
houseby
house of billiam
AUTUMN/WINTER 13 LOOK BOOK
LOOK BOOK
LOOK BOOK
oliver wearshouse chet varsityhouse oscar trousershouse dean tshirtshoes: stylists own
LOOK BOOK
oliver wears:house dominic white shirthouse blackwatch trousershouse black watch waistcoatshoes stylists own
LOOK BOOK
oliver wears:house dominic white shirthouse blackwatch trousershouse black watch waistcoat
LOOK BOOK
LOOK BOOK
oliver wears:house dominic white shirthouse blackwatch trousershouse black watch waistcoatshoes stylists own
oliver wears:house chad white tshirthouse rupert trouserhouse chuck varsityhouse oscar blazershoes stylists own
LOOK BOOK
oliver wears:house dominic white shirthouse blackwatch trousershouse chuck varsityshoes stylists own
LOOK BOOK
oliver wears:house dominic white shirthouse rupert trouserhouse thomas knitshoes stylists own
Autumn/Winter 2013 Campaign
PhotographerErika Symonds
HairLeah Isadora
Make-upLeah Isadora
StylistHarriet Francis
Art DirectorHarriet Francis
Post Production EditorSimeon Marcus Bird
VenueDoodle Bar Battersea
17/02/13
LOOK BOOK
GASTRONOMY
Magnus Nilsson’s Arctic Cuisine
Based in Northern Sweden, restaurant Faviken Magasi-net is set on 24,000 acres of pristine farmland. Using sea-sonal produce sourced on the restaurants acre’s, Nilsson has fostered a rustic experience that he refers to as rektun or “real food”. As the grounds are covered in snow for six months a year, Nilsson relies on pickling, fermenting, curing and other old-fashioned preservation techniques through winter.
Faviken Magasinet caters for an exclusive 12 people per night, making it one of Swedens most sought after dining spots, so we were the least surprised on hearing it report-edly has a two- to three month waiting list. In this spread, photographer Howard Sooley portrays an array of imag-es which inhabit the niche craft and design behind this gastronomic icon.
Submitted by Harriet Francis
GASTRONOMY
SARTORIAL
STYLE ICONS
RICHARD AVEDON
Richard Avedon, the highly acclaimed New York photogra-pher who learned his artistic talents through the infamous art director Alexey Brodovitch, is our leading icon for sar-
torial style. It holds no surprise that Richard Avedon would trump our list when his life was dedicated to creating the
worlds finest of aesthetic images that lured the public eye.
SARTORIAL
SARTORIAL
EDWARD FOX
Impeccably dressed Edward Fox dresses in the most superb suits tailored to fit on Savile Row, whilst occassionaly opting for the relaxed look in his infamous worn courdroys, a look we’re currently accus-tomed to here at the the House studio. Famously known for his large acting parts in classic British plays, it is just as well that he holds no tollerance for stylists and insists on dressing himself, a provocation which all sane directors happily tolerate.
STEVE MCQUEEN
SARTORIAL
Steve Mcqueen, throughout his successful life in the public eye, thouroughly accomplished the relaxed
sartorial look. A wardrobe of biker jackets and tai-lored trousers, loose fitting blazers and a dapper iconic
haircut, Steve Mcqueen has played a thorough part to House clothing inspiration throughout it’s develop-
ment.
SARTORIAL
GIANNI AGNELLI
Althoough Giovanni “Gianni” Agnelli was a highly suc-cessful businessman, fulfilling the titles of Italian industri-alist and president of Fiat, we at House and the majority of
Italy feel the title ‘King of Italy’ is a far more fitting image for the man. At the time of being admired for his knowl-
edge in business, he was equally admired for his dress sense. During the 1960’s -1980’s, Gianni Agnelli inspired
style across high society, mastering the style of sprezzatu-ra - making the difficult look easy. His trademarks include wearing a watch over his shirt (saves time) and leaving his tye slightly askew; this man cares for every detail, yet pulls
it off with a charming sense of non-chalance.
SARTORIAL
SARTORIAL
JEAN-PAUL BELMONDO
Jean-Paul Belmondo acquired many accolade’s for his style via the potent combination of an exemplory choice of
clothes and a sense carelessnes. His style facilitated his char-acters for New Wave cinema, exceptionally played out in his
role for Godards’s film Breathless. The infamous smirk and cigarette merely aided his ‘just threw it on’ style.
SARTORIALSIDNEY POITIER
A serious man with a serious style, Sidney Poitier is an os-car winning American actor and a Civil Rights activist. The
honourable man was impeccably dressed throughout his vital part in the times of the Civil Rights movement, photos of the period show him on marches in premium slim black
suits, and we think that’s a hell of a way to get your voice heard. Poitier reminds us that styling is a powerful tool in
helping to convey poignant messages.
NYC’S NEW NEIGHBOURHOOD
ART & DESIGN
Ground breaking real estate companies are about to process plans to construct an entire new neighbourhood, from scratch, in New York City. It will be one of the most interesting construction projects that American history has seen; the city will acquire sixteen new skyscrapers adding over 12 million square feet of office, residential and retail space to Man-hattan’s West Side Yard.
Mayor Michael Bloomberg plans for the construction to move the econo-my forward via accelorating employability rates and helping young prof-fessionals gain their place on the property ladder. Bloomberg stated in March 2013 “we’re moving forward to make the far west side’s economic potential a reality.” More on the graphic design innovation of this project to continue in the next issue.
CULTURE
THE LEGENDS OF HIP HOP
At a time when hip-hop was relatively unknown to those residing below New York’s 125th street, French photographer Sophie Bramley was there to document what we initially missed out on. As part of the cult in the - then underground music move-ment, Sophie Bramley befriended the leaders that pioneered the American hip-hop craze today. It was the early 1980’s when Bramley started photographing the behind scenes and intimate photos of the cult movement. Her collections consist of the fresh-faced leaders The Beastie Boys, Fab Five Freddy and Afrika Bambaataa. The photos from decades past are now having their long over-due exposure, readying for the pub-lic eye in Paris’ 12MAIL Gallery, 20th March. Her insider images show groups of guys spinning on their heads, close-ups of the leaders themselves and pictures of the crowds of girls swooning over them whilst the break-dancers paid no attention except for what was happening between themselves and the dance floor. Bramley’s preference of un-derground clubs at the time were “The Roxy… I spent so many nights there! And the Bronx River Centre, when there were private parties hosted by the popular of the lot.” It wasn’t only the loyal friends, fans and general youth of the various neighbourhoods surrounding NY’s 125th Street who came to the cult nights. Among theme were Keith -
The Beastie Boys, Fab Five Freddy and Afrika Bambaataa
CULTURE
CULTURE
lyrics “Fab 5 Freddy told me everybody’s fly…” From then on Freddy affiliated himself with celebrity friends and art world titans, including Jean-Michel, Basquiat and Keith Haring. Fab soon had his vision to take on the big screen, pioneering the world’s first ever seen hip-hop music feature film, a film still popularised today, recently recognised by Rolling Stone magazine as one of the top 20 music feature films, ranking 7th in the list. Nostalgic of her days in New York, Sophie recalls the cities past and the change she faces now… “There were bums and bag ladies who filled the streets, the dirt, the street food stalls and the everything else mixed incredibly well with the bourgeois and luxuri-ous Uptown. There we celebrations everywhere as we lived in pre-AIDS utopia.” Bramley talks of friends she hung out with there, hanging out with the likes of Robert Mapplethorpe, designer Meripol and Kenny Sharf “etc”. Sophie explains that since many of the art-ists died of AIDS, New York has since been cleaned up with a hell of a lot of money, and as much as she still likes to go, she feels as though she is part of a “super clean Disney Land with stores such as Gucci, Prada, Chanel & Co.... Tramps were evacuated off the middle class territory and have now located to New Jersey instead”. Bramley lived her youth through this exciting, then cult hip-hop, pioneering scene, so it’s interesting to here what she thinks of hip hop music today “When I was at MTV and I produced ‘YO!’ the collection of 80’s rap I loved grew not only in all states of the U.S, but it also grew into and pioneered the majority of Eu-ropean and Japanese rap, so I am very proud of those years… but then there was gangsta rap, and in my opinion, everything how already been said or done. So I continue to listen to my junk loop, but now and then an occasional novelty proves me wrong. But I’m not at all nostalgic, I love the new and contemporary, as though I could shape it, I just think they we need to stay innovative instead of tiring what was once elec-trifying.” Sophie Bramleys collection will be shown at Paris’ 12 MAIL Gallery toward the end of March, so if you’re heading to France, be sure not to miss this pres-tigious collection that captures the behind the scenes truth of a hip-hop revolution.
CULTURE
Haring, Kenny Scharf and Andy Warhol all wanting to be a part of this working class, groundbreaking movement. Bramley shot with a Nikon F Pentax 6X7 and “the unsinkable”, which she always carried around in her pocket but has forgotten the brand. She recalls looking at legendary music photographers work, including Martha Cooper and Henry Chalfant and thinking “But they are so much better photographed, we see the artists continually at their best”. However Sophie later reviews that her photos do have a positive difference, in the fact that they are intimate as they’re the only ones shot behind the scenes, candid. Perhaps it is down to her French culture in a way that the French are very much attached to the intimate, Sophie had stated that she missed French cinema when in the U.S as “we see things more intimately in Europe, here in the U.S, people don’t want to see the truth, they want to aspire to an icon, which is essentially a 1D glossy object.” It’s not all negative though “at the time I loved the show, it was spectacular and new to me.” It is interesting then that we see these two distinctive aesthetics connected in her photography, not at all the gloss, but from her candid behind the scenes images you can really feel the excitement of the spectacular. Decades later, Sophie admits that she remains very close to “Freddy”, and occasionally see’s the others when she can, “Freddy is always informing me of what they’re up to, so I still feel as though they’re as much a part of my life.” Fab Five Freddy has received many accolades from the music industry for being “the top man” to bring hip-hop culture worldwide and mainstream. Born Fred Brathwaite, Fab 5 Freddy began his journey as a young visual artist, executing exceptional graffiti throughout New York City. The 1980’s saw Fab 5 Freddy accomplish one of the all time classics of subway graffiti today; as a homage to Andy Warhol, he graffiti’d a car that covered the main stretch of the subway with Warhols iconic Campbell’s soup cans. A couple of years later, Freddy began to ex-hibit his paintings on canvas in major galleries across Europe and America. Bramley recalls Freddy as the “liaison” between the hip-hop scene in down-town New York, moving amongst the art, film and music scenes that were all influenced by this newly devel-oping hip-hop scene. It wasn’t until Debbie Harry starred him in her ground breaking, early 80’s music video “Rapture”, in which she famously wrote the
