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We are happy to present to you the first issue of Hourglass.
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diversitybeauty
unique different
beauty
different
EDITORS LETTER
Rebekah Harris & Lucy Hill
We are excited to present to you the first addition of Hourglass; our brand new student magazine. This publication is for fashion lovers that want to see more diversity within the industry.Hourglass magazine aims to change the next generation of fashion creatives and the sterotypical view of beauty.The magazine will keep you up to date on seasonal trends and other fashion related news. All editioral shoots showcase ‘real people’from all walks of life. I hope you enjoy reading Hourglass as much as we’ve enjoyed creating it. We like to call it a fashion student’s bible, so please follow our religion.
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hourglassmag
ContentsPage 1 Meet the team page 4 Contributors pagepage 6 material girl editorialpage 12 interview with caryn franklinpage 14 by royal appointment editorialpage 20 hourglass’ favourite london locationspage 21 what your facebook profile picture says about you?page 22 internship issues page 24 bird of prey editorialpage 30 different tracks editorialpage 34 interview with velvet d’amour
First Issue/ Spring/Summer 2012
page 37 how to dress For your shapepage 40 bohemian beauty Editorialpage 44 pretty in pastel editorialpage 50 hourglass hottest trends: gyspy girl page 51 hourglass hottest trends: candy colourspage 52 trendsetters page 54 do we have an obsession with vintage?page 56 photoshop phaNtompage 58 blood and sweat editoral page 62 hourglass hair trends: pretty plaits page 64 hourglass make up made easy: luscious lipspage 66 fiesty fingertips: print perfect
meet the team
Rebekah Harris Co editor and photographer
“I enjoy photography because every photograph is different, you have a chance tocapture surrealism. All of myimagery is taken from what inspires me; such as films and music.”
Lucy hill co editor and stylist
“I’ve always been passionate about fashion and putting original looks together. Thinking up concepts for photo shoots then sourcing and planning the accessories and clothing really excites me.”
hourglass 1
hourglassco editors lucy hill
rebekah harris
features editor rebecca bonich
photographyrebekah harris
stylist lucy hill
hair & make uplily-victoria clarke
rosie jordan
modelsrebecca bonichdanitta buddan
joe burnshelen hill
william morgancatherine nichloas
penny robertsoncourtney o’sulivan shade
leigh travers hazel zaffarese
Advertisments abigail denton
leah whitty
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hourglass 4
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Check us out @
Material girl
introducing: Catherine nicholas age: 21dress size: 14height: 5’8
photographer: rebekah harrisstylist: lucy hill
Top:
H&M, Sleep Mask: Stylist’s ow
n
Jacket: Debe
nham
s, D
ress
: Do
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rkin
s, S
hoes
: Ne
w Lo
ok,
Sock
s: P
rima
rk,
Clut
ch:
Tops
hop
Dres
s: Primark, Shoes: New Look, Soc
ks:
Prim
ark,
Apr
on:
Styl
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s ow
n
Skirt: H&M, Blouse: H&M, Shoes: Office, Socks: Primark, Sunglasses: Primark, Hat: Stylist’s own
interview with...Caryn Franklin
Caryn Franklin All Walks Beyond The Catwalk Interview In 2009 at London Fashion Week Caryn Franklin, Debra Bourne, and Erin O’Connor showcased the All Walks Beyond The Catwalk Campaign.The project recognises the influence the fashion industry has on women and aims to create a shift in attitude by communicating a positive message to society by showing that any size, shape, colour and age are equally individual and beautiful aiming to influence long-term change within the fashion industry. Together they believe that the use of size ‘0’ models on fashion catwalks, magazines and advertising campaigns, project an unrealistic view of the female form. Since its launch All Walks have collaborated with top designers such as Vivienne Westwood, Giles Deacon, Stella McCartney and photographers Kayt Jones and Rankin to name just a few. With the help of these professionals they have produced a variety of campaigns. We were lucky enough to talk to Caryn Franklin, former Co Editor of i-D magazine and Co Founder of All Walks Beyond The Catwalk.
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What initial difficulties did you come up against when setting up All Walks? The fact is it takes a lot of money to make something work successfully, we found out that we could get hold of a grant from the London Development Agency.
When you are working with top designers and top photographers, you need money to put them into a decent studio and to print out photographs and to make a launch at London Fashion Week, which is what we did. You just can’t do it on thin air. Everybody worked very hard and took no fee but it still cost us £20,000 to make the campaign work. So accessing that money through a grant is what made us think, great, we can go ahead. You can have all the passion in the world, people can donate their services, but you still need money to pay for other resources or services. For example, when you need a courier or travel expenses, you can’t always rely on the fact that it is for a charitable cause, you have to fight to make something happen with no money.
PHOTOGRAPHER CHRIS FLOYD
Caryn Franklin
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Have you had any negative response since starting up the campaign? None. Nothing whatsoever. We’ve just had excitement and encouragement all the way.Now obviously you can’t make a campaign on just encouragement alone, the best response of all would be sponsorship we have received and we have to spend quite a bit of our time trying to make that happen. One of the best areas of encouragement has been going backwards and forwards to parliament and on Thursday 19th April we will be in some ways co hosting, well collaborating with Jo Swinson MP to create The Body Confidence Awards. There nominee’s like Mark Fast and Caitlin Moran with her book ‘How To Be A Woman’ and lots of other initiatives that have been noticed for doing something that is very positive, will be nominated and recognized. Here at Hourglass we feel that larger women have been appearing more in fashion campaigns, but feel that they are singled out as being ‘bigger’ and made more of a spectacle of rather than being accepted as ‘normal’. What is your opinion on this? I definitely agreed with you on this. That’s why we are really just at the beginning, the tip of the iceberg if you like, when it comes to campaigning for diversity. The fashion industry treats larger women as a novelty, they appear to say ‘look here we are we’ve done Vogue Curvy’ or ‘look we’ve got some larger girls in their underwear’ and its not it’s a much bigger issue. Until designers start to make larger sample sizes for photographers to shoot larger professional models for the magazines, we’ve got no where to go. So I fully agree with you, it shouldn’t just be the odd novelty spectacle. Apart from events that you have already mentioned, do you have anything else coming up? Yes, in June we will be launching ‘Diversity Now’ which is a national student competition that encourages young people to create imagery, films, designs or writing in celebration of diverse body and beauty ideals. The competition will be running in association with i-D magazine and everything will be uploaded on Arts Thread. It’s a year long competition that will launch in June but we wont announce the winners until June 2013 at Graduate Fashion Week.
Hourglass wish Caryn and the All Walks team every success with the Body Confidence Awards and we hope to able to report on their progress in the fight for diversity.
PHOTOGRAPHER CHRIS FLOYD
By Royal Appointment
INTRODUCING PENNY ROBERTSON & LEIGH TRAVERS MODEL 1: PENNY ROBERTSONAGE: 21DRESS SIZE: 10HEIGHT: 5’4
MODEL 2: LEIGH TRAVERSAGE: 21DRESS SIZE: 10HEIGHT: 5’7
PHOTOGRAPHY: REBEKAH HARRIS STYLIST: LUCY HILLHAIR AND MAKE-UP : LILY-VICTORIA CLarke
Both dress
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H&M,
Gol
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H&M,
Sil
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Long
Cha
in:
Wall
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Silv
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ross: Miss Selfridge,
Plaited Ch
ain: Dorothy Perki
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Silv
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angl
es:
Prim
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Pea
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ace:
Pri
mark
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angl
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Prim
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New
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own
, Li
on Necklace: H&M, Gold
Link Neckl
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Ring
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and Pink Belt: Miss
Selfridge.
hourglass’ favourite LONDON locations
This weeks location...Camden town has a great vibrant atmosphere, if you’re looking for live music, vintage finds or simply just a bite to eat you are sure to find it all in this trendy London District. The daily market offers great bargains on clothing, hand made jewellery and other chic items. To those that have a quirky fashion style, Camden is the place to be. The area attracts a tourist population due to the bizarre scenery which includes sculptures emerging out of stores along the street. Even if you’re penniless, Camden is the ideal place for window shopping and checking out the street style of some of London’s finest.
When you’re tired of browsing the stalls and boutiques the canal offers some swanky restaurants and lively pubs. Dining isn’t a problem in Camden as the market offers cuisines from all over the world, so why not try something different.
At night Camden comes alive; it is the essential place in London to catch the hottest up and coming bands. KOKO and The Electric Ballroom are both reputed music venues and host weekly club nights.
Next time you’re in London and you’ve got a bit of spare time, why not catch the tube to one of London’s most alternative destinations, we’re sure you won’t be dissapointed.
save money on trains by
buying frommegatrain.com
camden town
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This weeks location...camden town
what your facebook profile picture says about you?
Hourglass investigates what a picture can say about your identity Social Networking is now a must have. Everybody is constantly on their phone checking and updating their Twitter, Facebook or Tumblr. These platforms now allow our generation to talk, stalk and follow whomever we want and in some cases even get noticed by people in their desired industries as potential employees.
Our online accounts are a reflection of ourselves; using them to express opinions, events and to communicate with others.
By looking at the imagery people use to represent themselves on these sites, it is interesting to see how much pictures can say about an individual – or how they want to be perceived.
I don’t mean the obvious – ‘oh that person is on a boat so they enjoy sailing’ but more to do with body image and beauty. By de-tagging imagery we think is unflattering and editing photographs on Photoshop as well as deliberate poses to accentuate certain assets, the images we upload are used as a reflection of who we are – or who we want to be.
People that aren’t necessarily too body conscious might select a profile picture where they look their skinniest or hide their own personal body hang-ups. Nearly everyone wants to look their best, but ongoing patterns like this portray a deeper issue.
Here at Hourglass we have compiled some Facebook Profile pictures that we have gathered from the office, as well as our friends and families. It is interesting to see that the majority of profile pictures are of that user on their own and in both gender cases there is most definitely a bit of posing going on.
Profile Pictures are used as a virtual handshake when meeting someone; and first impressions are important because let’s face it, the first thing a person will look at when trying to add you is your profile picture - whether it is to see if you’re hot, or who their mate is dating, or even to add a new friend, that important image gives you a instant identification.
By the way you are dressed in the photograph or where you are or what you are doing, somebody can instantly make judgment of you. Nobody wants to admit they are posing in the photograph, or mention that you may have made your friend take the photograph three times because you didn’t like the first one.
There isn’t any shame in wanting to look good in a photograph, but its interesting how people’s opinions change regarding what makes a good Profile Picture and how the added pressure from magazines that are filled with celebrities who have been edited and warped has an influence on such photos. No wonder society today is so body conscious and image obsessed.
Surely you’d think our photos would show the truth about whom we are, no editing involved. So why do we feel the need to de-tag images because we feel we look too short or are caught sporting a double chin or mid blink. It’s not like we can be airbrushed or de-tagged in real life, so why do we do it? These online platforms should be a network to allow staying in touch with distant friends, and for the majority of us are not portfolios for our budding modeling careers.
Words By Rebekah Harris
hourglass 21
Yes, internships are a valuable addition for any student wanting to get into an industry of their dreams and be successful within it, but when should the line be drawn?
As the recession still swamps the UK industries, internships have become more valuable than ever. The cut in jobs in all areas has resulted in a shocking rise in internships which has been overshadowed, enabling companies to get away with essentially having able staff work for them for free. When looking at the ratio between interns and paid staff in many offices today, interns usually come out as being the majority –especially within the fashion and journalism industries where there is a lot of competition for jobs. These days, internships are crucial when it comes to deciding whether someone is job worthy or not. Having just a degree doesn’t seem to cut it anymore. Industries want to see that applicants will be able to jump in to a position easily without much costly training. However, many can’t afford to work ‘for free’ thus a divide is created between who interns and who doesn’t. The rich can intern as they are able to manage without an income for a while, whereas people with a smaller income/poorer background may find it very difficult. According to the PPA and the PTC work experience guidelines, work experience can only last up to a month, unpaid. After this it is classed as an internship and the intern should be paid. However in offices all over the country this rule is broken and to
many interns it is unknown. When browsing on internship websites there are very little placements that include an income. Many claim they will cover travel expenses yet when reading the small print you discover that this usually only means the minimum. For example in central London companies will only fund travel within zones 1 and 2 and a small lunch allowance. For anyone living outside of London (and the majority that don’t live in zones 1 and 2 of central London) would have to pay to get there. Yet what are the rights of an intern and how can they stand their ground? Any student lucky enough to bag a good internship will take it willingly and will do anything they are told to – whether it be making cups of tea or taking up an important role within the office. After all, work experience on a CV means more chance of grabbing that perfect job they’ve been dreaming about whilst working for free alongside paid colleagues who are doing similar jobs. A slight catch 22 situation, how can an intern who is grateful for being able to gain work experience at a company stand up for their rights with the threat of losing their work experience placement altogether?For example, a student who was recently on a documentary on BBC One described his time at a newspaper which soon came to an end when he stood up for his rights. ‘I was lucky enough to gain an internship at a popular newspaper and was over the moon when they said they’d publish a piece of my work. At first I was grateful and couldn’t believe my luck, but as the weeks past I began to get irritated.
internship issues
hourglass 22
Words Rebecca Bonich
I was expected to write articles and meet deadlines – like all the other journalists in the office but unlike them, I wasn’t paid a penny. When I brought this issue up with the editor he was reluctant to put me on a payroll so I gave it in.’ Stories like this circulate throughout universities and although the experience for students in an office is good, when people are being neglected of pay for work that is worthy of an income it doesn’t seem justifiable. Unlike the UK, in Wales the internship scheme is much better. The intern site ‘Go Wales Work Placements’ guarantees a minimum of 240 per week for ten weeks to any intern who finds a placement through their site. Meaning interns are able to afford to live whilst on their placements. The UK has no system like this, and so it is left entirely up to the companies to choose whether to pay their interns or not.Although this exploitation is going against many internship laws, businesses and websites are still ignorant to people’s rights and needs. Graduates are desperate to get their foot in the door within industries and due to the recession it’s difficult to do this, especially if you have no work experience. However, Managing Directors and Editors across the country claim that if they notice an intern and see that he or she work hard and are enthusiastic and dedicated to their career they will do their best to find them a job, or recommend them to other businesses. There may be hope yet…Nevertheless, it is easy for an interns enthusiasm to run dry if they aren’t getting paid, and aren’t doing any jobs that would benefit them (making cups of tea, tidying the stockroom etc) of course, there is the well known phrase ‘everybody starts at the bottom’ but then surely employers would have a bit of sympathy for interns if they’ve all been there?As graduates compete for jobs, they become more vulnerable when it comes to internships – there currently isn’t much available so interns will take what they can in the hope
that adding to their CV will soon make them employable and finally result in them gaining a monthly income.Last year 40,000 students graduated who are still looking for jobs, yet how can they be employed when the laws of interning aren’t put in place properly? Of course managing directors are going to choose not to pay interns or workers if they have the choice, so how can this be overcome? The only way things can be changed is with the help of the government and the businesses involved. There are many skilled and talented people out there who are ready for employment yet are overshadowed due to the recession. Although interning is useful and an interesting insight into the office, for many it is an ongoing thing that usually leads to nowhere. 30 years ago work experience and placements were unheard of, yet now it seems that they are taking over actual employment rates. For instance, in New Look’s Press office, the ratio of interns to people who worked in the office was 9:7 - more interns than actual employees. Obviously everybody begins at the bottom, but many interns seem to have progressed from that point yet still treated like they aren’t capable of much. The truth is, many businesses wouldn’t function as well without their interns running around working hard in all eagerness to please. Maybe employers should take a step back and try to remember not to take their interns for granted.
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bird of prey
introducing: rebecca bonichage: 21dress size: 12height: 5’6
photographer: rebekah harrisstylist: lucy hill
Studded Belt: H&M, Wings and Feathers: Stylist’s own, Dress made from Stylist’s own material
differenttracks
model 1: william morgan age:21 dress size: s height: 5’8 model 2: courtney o’sullivan shade age:20 dress size:10 height: 5’7
model 1: william morgan age:21 dress size: s height: 5’8 model 2: courtney o’sullivan shade age:20 dress size:10 height: 5’7
model 3: rebecca bonich age:21 dress size: 12 height: 5’6
model 4: joe burns age:21 dress size: M height: 5’5
interview with...
Velvet D’Amour
hourglass 34
Velvet D’amour is passionate about both modeling and photography.She’s modeled for high-end designers such as John Galliano and Jean Paul Gaultier to name but a few, her appearance is often seen as controversial within the Fashion world due to her voluptuous figure. Recently Velvet has launched her own magazine using a variety of different models, we were lucky enough to catch up with Velvet and hear her views and opinions on the subject of diverse women and their appearances within the fashion industry as well as her personal experiences.
What do you consider to be the beauty ideal?
For me the beauty ideal is diversity because women come in all different shapes and sizes. It’s not if you’re fat or if you’re thin, 19 or 90, black or white, it’s to encompass a global kind of beauty.
What was the inspiration for your magazine Vol 2 Up?
It’s really driven on changing notions of beauty to make it more diverse, my work tends to be quite sexy and the plus size world hasn’t always been open to that.
I’ve worked in Paris for 19 years so the editorial images that you see in French and Italian Vogue aren’t really carried over into the typical plus size magazines.Part of my drive was being able to do this kind of work in my photography; maintaining a super editorial flavour and using models who normally aren’t allowed in fashion. So it was having the creative freedom as far as my photography goes, to use it as a vehicle, it’s also opened doors for other photographers and artists as well.
Really, I thrive to create a magazine that only uses plus models, in contrast main stream magazines only have smaller models.
Depending on the age shape and size that appears in a magazine often reflects its audience. For example, if you have a magazine that only has older people in it, its readers will be older.Women are more diverse than that, more global, I have friends that are much older and much younger, that are fat that are thin, that are differently ambled. I don’t think any one magazine on the market currently shows that kind of diversity.
What kind of response have you had since launching the magazine?
I’ve had an amazing response that I’ve been really blown away by, I expected a little more controversy as I did choose a sexy theme, the next one will be a bit more tame as the theme is femininity.
An overwhelming amount of women have said how incredibly empowered they have felt by the imagery and how they find the photography to be a piece of art that has blown me away, I’m really lucky.
How did people react to you when you first in the public eye?
I was in the John Galliano show; it was a really interesting experience in my life because John Galliano’s show involved a lot of diverse people. The show showcased small people, younger people, and larger people. I was obviously the fat person, there were different types of people involved. It was interesting
photographer maya guez
because the fashion industry were very critical against John saying it was more of a freak show than a fashion show. I just thought ‘Wow how amazing’; how far the fashion world has come if we show a diverse group of people then they perceive it as a freak show, but that is the world. When a freak show is more like 19 year old 6ft tall white girls, if your looking at the global realm of things this would be considered slightly more freakish. I believe the essence of humanity is diversity.When I did the John Paul Gautier show he chose to single me out. This was for the 3 year anniversary. He had already used a bigger model back in the 80s so when I went to the casting, it was really to be casted as a 30 year retrospective. When we ended up talking he decided to single me out and put me in the other show, which made it more of a spectacle and more about me, that was dramatically controversial; it was a lot of fun.
I knew there would be people that would be hypocritical, some people would say that I was promoting obesity and I just thought that there were women that were literally dying on the runway. I felt that in general the excuse of health and the perception of poor health is that people that are over weight aren’t allowed in any media. But you can open up a page of a magazine and see skinny celebrities such as Lindsay Lohan, Paris Hilton and Nicole Richie. In these cases these are girls that have crap health but because they are thin, it is an issue that is generally ignored.
Do you think magazines in particular have put pressure upon women to look a certain way?
As an ideal, when you look at a fashion magazine then yes, but I think that this has never worked to make women thinner as a society. On the contary it has worked on the opposite where women have become obese because much like myself have dieted or used diet drugs.
In order to reach the ideal that is becoming less and less reachable, not only are the women becoming thinner but they are photo-shopped to have no pours what so ever. So I don’t mind having an idealisation of beauty because I think culture has always had one, you can’t get away from that. I think in this day and age we need to not just think about physical health, the assumption that someone thinner is healthier than somebody who is fat. But there is nowhere for you to go where they say how healthier you are before you shoot a picture. The priority stands whether the clothes look good on the model.
hourglass 35
check out Velvet’s magazine
at volup2.com
What can we expect to see in the next issue of Vol Up 2?
Each issue will have a theme and the first issue is ‘Ecstasy’ - because I know my work is driven towards sexy imagery that would be easy. I like really broad themes; the second will have other photographers that have come forward to contribute which is really great. I like giving myself a lot of freedom and having something quite global. The next issue will be ‘Femininity’ and the issue after that will be ‘Zest’, people can interrupt the flavour, as they like. I don’t like dictating anything specific.
What other projects do you know coming up at the moment?
I’m doing a lot of modeling at the moment including the ‘Art Loves People’ exhibition in Hamburg with other diverse people. I have recently been performing for Le Bel in Miami, which was really fun. And I’ve been liaising with people in American television, but my main dedication is the magazine, because this is where my passion lies.
Interveiw conducted & written by Lucy Hill & Rebekah Harris
hourglass 36
I think women in a sense are very unforgiving of themselves, where as men pick up ‘Hunters Weekly’ and don’t say ‘OMG he has a beer gut he can’t be on the front of that magazine’. They don’t care, they don’t think about it. They are talking about guns or sports. Women have more of a preoccupation with their physical beauty. In terms of health we need to talk about mental health. Mental health starts with accepting yourself then if you don’t accept yourself then the likeliness that you will go to the gym is a heck of alot less.
Do you feel the fashion industry is empowering younger women to look a certain way? It is becoming apparent that eating disorders are on the rise, what’s your opinion on this?
It’s not really the fashion industry as such, it is more what they read in the magazines that they can get their hands on. It’s not as if they get given a ticket to a Dior fashion show, but if they’re at the dentist they can easily pick up a fashion magazine and flick through it and instantly be open to imagery. Magazines have a heck of a lot of power.
Do you think the fashion industry has become more accepting of diversity?
Magazines depend on their advertising therefore as a publication have to be conscious of their content. There is a lot less potential for risk because advertisers may not want to appear in a magazine that features certain types of models. I think with that it is also very limiting and the amount of risk people have took in the past is very restrained because the dependence we have on advertising today.
The average person is bored with what they are constantly fed so they are likely to make their own magazine. Those people are forced to look at the fact that there are fat people; time is changing with people like Beth Ditto, and the Karl Lagerfeld Dirty Martini ad campaign. There is a little more exposure for fat people and I think that’s because the population is getting fatter and fatter. You know you can only have this ideal long enough that people are gonna rebel and say I want to see someone who looks somewhat like me.
how to dress for your shape
This issue we are catering for people with pear shaped figures. This is everything you need to know about making the most of your figure; making you feel more confident and beautiful this S/S.
The key to dressing to any shape is flaunting your best bits and covering those self-conscious areas. Women with a Pear shaped body need to accentuate the top half of thier body. Drawing eyes away from hips up to neck and shoulder areas, this can be achieved by accessorizing the right way. Wearing a cute scarf or statement necklaces draw attention to the upper body, this will then distract attention from the bottom half.
Blacks and dark colours on the bottom half are a pear shape’s best friend, this will slim down hips and emphasise those sleek legs that most pear shapes are blessed with. Don’t be afraid to wear colours as this will make anyone stand out in the crowd and for this S/S Pastel colours are a MUST! When wearing colour make sure the bottom half garment is darker than the top half- whether it is an A-line skirt, jeans or a flattering pair of slacks, bright solid colours are your best bet.
Bring detail to the top half with fun prints; bold colours and embellishment from this season’s hottest trends are a perfect distraction. Don’t shy away from wearing tops that are quirky and bold but try to stay away from tops that cut off at the hips. Instead try a tailored shirt with a 50s style A-line skirt.
hourglass 37
Pear shaped bodies
bohemianbeauty
introducing: Helen hillage: 17 dress size: 12height: 5’7
photography & styling: lucy hill
Trou
sers: Topsho
p, Shirt: Vintage,
Sun
glas
ses:
Pri
mark
.
Head Scarf: Primark
Skir
t: Primark, Belt Vintage, Shir
t: A
SOS.
Pretty in Pastel
introducing: hazel zaffareseage: 21dress size: 8height: 6’
photographer: rebekah harrisstylist: lucy hillhair & make-up: rosie jordan
Top:
Primark, Skirt: Miss Selfridg
e, S
hoes
: Ne
w Lo
ok,
Neck
lace
: Ne
w Lo
ok,
Ring
: Pr
imar
k.
Play
suit: Topshop, Bow: Stylists o
wn.
Nude Shirt: George at ASDA, Necklace: New Look, Trousers: Primark, Shoes: New Look, Socks: Primark.
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hourglass hottest trends
Gypsy Girl
In contrast to the crisp whites and soft shade trends, the boho look is a mish mash of prints and colours.
Loose tailoring, floaty fabrics and over accessorizing make up the key elements of this trend. This relaxed style is fantastic for summer days and festivals.
Make use of forgotten scarves by using them as fun head bands, detachable collars are also perfect for accessorizing an old shirt and are a great addition to this trend.
Collar Necklace: PrimarkSunglasses: Primark
Brow
n Ma
xi S
kirt
: Pr
imar
k
Blac
k an
d Br
own
Maxi
Tro
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s: P
rima
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Cream Shirt: Vintage Knitted Jacket: Topshop
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hourglass hottest trendsCandy Colours
Pastel colours are a must have for your 2012 Summer wardrobe. These candy hues have dominated this season’s catwalk, with most brands mixing their signature styles with the sorbet shades in contrast to last years bold block colours.
Pastels are fantastic for transforming an otherwise more masculine suit or jacket, into a feminine garment and layering these gentle shades is a must to add impact as most of the soft chalky colours compliment each other well. Selecting key interchangeable pieces will provide a variety of different outfits and will save money.
Mint is a key colour this Summer, the trend crosses over into the pastels and is a great alternative colour for an evening dress.
Louis Vuitton in particular embraced the trend, creating a pastel fairy- tale fashion show that captured its audience and ignited our love for the sweet colours.
Play
suit
: To
psho
pShirt: George at ASDA
Louis Vuitton S/S 2012Shoes: NewlookSocks: Primark
trend setters
Name: Faith Gaiger Profession: Peter Symonds CollegeJacket: Charity shopDress: TopshopBoots: Ebay
Name: Poppy WalleProfession: Student at the University of LeedsJumper: TopshopScarf: Urban Outffiters Shoes & Necklace: Topshop
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What are wearing today?
Name: Edelin HoeProfession: Student TeacherDress: KoreaShoes: China
Name: Nicole TrergoveProfession: Peter Symonds CollegeDenim shirt: TopshopJeans: River IslandSunglasses: H&MShoes: Clarkes
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winchester
do we have an OBsESSION WITH VINTAGE?Looking into my wardrobe I can never imagine the few original trends of the noughties ever being classed as ‘vintage’ or ‘retro’ yet I guess the same goes for the Dynasty-esque shoulder pads and Madonna inspired ‘underwear as outerwear’ that took over the Eighties. Once the trend had had its day, nobody wanted or expected to see shoulder pads make a return, ever. Yet here they are, with thanks to circulating trends and more importantly; the vintage revival.
Yes, today’s trends may seem original and new, however Britain is currently in a state of vintage euphoria – embracing in old trends and rekindling relationships with old pieces of clothing. The growth of vintage shops across the UK as well as online stores has expanded massively…adding a sudden chic to second hand clothing. And not only clothing…but furnishings, holidays, cafes and even cooking. It seems everyone has jumped on to the vintage-trend bandwagon as though we have stepped back a few decades. Don’t get me wrong I love all things vintage, but why do we have such a fascination with what’s been and gone already?
In the Sixties the Modernist trend overtook all other trends; clothing, hair, make-up and even cars and buildings were all styled with the modern futuristic vision. The Sixties fascination with the future was a liberation for young people; new fashion trends and a whole new culture for young people – steering away from the long skirts and cardigans and introducing PVC dresses and Go-Go boots. However, today we seem to be embracing more of the old, rather than the new. Is this because we have propelled so far forward that we instead are looking backwards?
Focusing on clothing in particular, vintage has become an infamous trend that enables people to be original…yet stay on trend at the same time. London’s Carnaby Street and Brick Lane – popular spots for all trendsetters are thriving with shoppers looking for special vintage buys, whilst even high street shops are introducing ‘vintage inspired clothing’ and original vintage collections to entice customers. Urban Outfitters ‘Renewal’ range which uses vintage fabrics for pretty tea dresses and skirts is a fine example, as well as ASOS’ Marketplace website which enables customers to buy and sell vintage clothing.
Yet what is it that people like about vintage clothing? And why has it become so popular? It seems there maybe more to it than you think.
The obvious reason would be individuality, everyone knows that walking into a room and spotting someone else with the same dress on is never fun. I remember wincing at the thought when my uncle described me as a ‘Topshop Queen’ (don’t get me wrong, I love Topshop but it doesn’t mean I want to wear it from top to
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toe.) The knowing that an item of clothing is now one of a kind makes it that bit more special than a dress picked up off the high street, and if it fits and looks good it feels as though it was meant to be.
Our fashion conscience also has a lot to do with this vintage fling. We are becoming evermore globally aware and acting upon it too. The recycling of old clothing and jewellery means less wastage and more energy saved. As well as the added character and uniqueness of clothing, there is also the thought of saving money, as well as the added quality which with vintage you usually get with a more modest price tag.
The quality of clothing is another issue that has persuaded shoppers to choose vintage over high street. The low standard and durability from chain stores has lead us all looking for quality over fast fashion – clothing that is ‘worth the money’ rather than something that will end up in a charity shop worn and tattered two months down the line. Similarly, you can find original items that are just as fashionable but the quality ten times better – you know this as the item of clothing has lasted decades and still looks good!
In relation to furniture, it follows the same points as is made about clothing. The recession has helped slightly, meaning more and more people are looking to second hand shops rather than new furnishings to fill their homes. Boot sales, markets, and even second hand and charity shops
have seen a rise in purchases due to the fact that most second hand furniture of a similar price to new is usually far better in quality and character. Shops such as TK Maxx prove that people are looking for quality and designer at much lower prices, and do not mind if the product is a bit worn as long as it’ll last longer than it would take to put it up.
In some cases in can also be seen as a hobby; thanks to the recession Portobello Road market (among many second hand markets) is now the fashionable place to be on a Saturday, selling gems that would fit right in on a Downton Abbey set.
What may have been a historical interest for some has now turned into a sort of culture for Britain. The ‘vintage’ scene is one that celebrates the old with regards to the new. The new trends are celebrating what has been and gone. From this little affaire d’amour we are able to use are resources to deal with the recession. Is Vintage Britain’s heads up to resourceful fashion? And if so, I’ll think twice before throwing out last season’s boots.
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Words Rebecca Bonich
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Words Rebecca Bonich
photoshop phantom
Here at Hourglass we believe that unrealistic and altered images within the media, especially within fashion campaigns have warped our perception of the human form. This generation has become a culture that is obsessed with perfection due to over editing of photographs on Photoshop.
We decided to demonstrate the extent that Photo Shop offers by showing the public examples of photoshopped imagery. Here you can see a image taken from the Internet of a model before and after she was manipulated.
When showing the end result the majority preferred the original image of the girl and thought the edited version looked fake and unnatural. This proves that women in our society feel these photographs aren’t a good representation of our forms.
These images provide women with false hope by presenting distorted imagery and passing it off in the media as true to life. Providing women with unrealistic goals that ultimately is setting them up to fail. Is it fair to say imagery we see on a daily basis makes us more body conscious because we are trying to compete with these ‘fake images’.
Photo Shop gives us the opportunity to airbrush cellulite, stretch marks and other blemishes to make skin appear smooth. Beauty advertisements are feeding us imagery of women with perfect skin which isn’t only enhanced by lighting but has then been reworked in the editing stage. Other common alterations include extending of the models legs, arms and neck. A tool called puppet warp allows editors to warp the figure to nip and tuck the waist and other areas of the body.
Hopefully this shocking imagery will help in the fight to make women more comfortable in their own skin, not strive for a unreachable perfection and that we need to be weary of imagery presented before us.
Although here at Hourglass we use Photoshop to enhance our images, we definitely do not go to the extent of-- changing the overall appearance of our models as they are beautiful just the way they are.
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Before After
Here are some testimonials that share individuals’ views on Photo Shopped imagery.
Sophie Mitchell – ‘I think that a lot of images in the media, especially fashion adverting appear fake, the images make me feel like I’m not good enough and inadequate’.
Georgie Frary – ‘I think that images in magazines and advertising are extremely misleading and provide an unrealistic version of reality resulting in very poor self esteem. I certainly feel pressure to look a particular way to fit in with what is portrayed as the norm’.
Jean- Pascal Beecroft –‘Most of the time I don’t even realise that images have been Photoshopped, I think it raises men’s expectations of how women should look. I also believe that men feel this pressure as well, to have the perfect abs and bulging muscles as published in magazines such as Men’s Health and GQ’.
Lucy Arnold – ‘I think in today’s self-conscious and body image obsessed environment its quite bad that people don’t realise images have been changed. The fact is it puts false pressure on people to look a certain way’.
blood and sweatintroducing: danitta buddanage: 21dress size:8height: 5’9
photography & styling: rebekah harris
Crop Top: Forever 21, Shorts: Forever 21, Socks: Stylist’s own, Boots: Primark.
Hourglass gives you all you need to know about this S/S hottest plaits
hourglass’ hair trends
For an ultra girly look this summer plaits are a must. Great for a neat office look or a sophisticated evening ‘do’. The romantic style is great for creating a fashionable look for less, with different variations for short and long hair.
Bun and French Plait
What you will need:Comb/Hair BrushNetted Doughnut ring2 x Hair bandsBoddy Pins in your hair colourHair Spray
Method:
-Brush hair thoroughly, then tip your head upside-down and brush again.-With your head still upside-down take three strands of hair from the base and plait the hair upwards towards your crown, incorporating other strands to create a French plait look.-Secure the plait with a bobby pin so it doesn’t unravel, then brush the remaining hair into a high ponytail.-Thread the doughnut ring onto the ponytail.-With the ring on, take the other hair band in your hand, spread the hair of your ponytail around the doughnut ring. Letting the tail fall from the centre, using your fingers, help spread the hair around the doughnut evenly, the secure with hair band.-Tuck the hair that is sticking out under the doughnut and secure with bobby pins.-Secure the whole look with hair spray for a neat finish.
Pretty Plaits
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Princess Plait
What you will need:Comb/Hair Brush2 x Hair BandBobby Pins in your hair colourHair Spray
Method:
-Brush hair thoroughly, divide hair into two equal sections. Secure the side you will not be braiding with a hair band to keep it out the way.-Begin by taking three strand of hair from the front of the hair line and plait down, whilst incorporating the rest of the hair in that section bit by bit. Move these three sections of hair under each other whilst braiding to create a plait that sits on top of the hair. Plait right down to the end the hair and secure temporarily with a hair band. -Complete this same process for the other section of hair.-Once both sections are braided, lift the right plait so it sits across the back on the head. Remove the hair band and secure the whole plait carefully with bobby pins.-Lift the left plait so it sits across the back of the head, directly under the right plait. Remove the hair band and tuck the end of the plait under the right plait and secure the whole plait with bobby pins.-Once the left plait is secured, the end of the right plait can also be tucked under the left plait, this will create a neater finish.-Secure the whole look with hair spray.
Valentino’s Spring/Summer 2012 Campaign features the braided hair trend.
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hourglASS make up made easy
Luscious Lips
We recommend Sleek’s products, with
affordable prices
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Deep crimson and dark purple lips can transform an ordinary look into a seductive and alternative one. Using light colours to highlight the eye area is a great contrast to the bold lips.
What you will need:
-Foundation that matches your skin colour.-Powder-Pink Blusher-Mascara-Black liquid eyeliner-White pencil eyeliner-Dark Purple lipstick
Method:
-Apply foundation to the skin evenly, coating the lips as well.-Using the liquid eyeliner, follow the shape of your eyelid and then add a thin coat of mascara to the top lashes.-Brush the apple of the cheeks with pink blusher, then lightly cover skin with the power.-Apply the lipstick carefully to the lips to finish the look.
Inspired by the makeup looks of Gucci and Rochas 2012 collections.
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fiesty fingertips Print PerfectFor an alternative look for tired nails try our newspaper look; a cheap and easy way to jazz up your fingertips.
What you will need:
-Light coloured nail varnish
-Clear nail varnish
-Vodka in a ramekin
-Newspaper text cut up into small squares
Method:
-Start by painting your nails in the light coloured nail varnish.
-Wait a few minutes for the nail varnish to dry slightly but not completely.
-Dip a nail into the vodka, then quickly place the newspaper print, print facing down, onto the nail and rub gently so that it covers the entire nail.
-Carefully unpeel to reveal the newspaper text that has transferred onto the nail.
-Repeat this process on all your nails.
-Finish with a coat of clear nail varnish to cement the look.
start by applying clear varnish to keep that look for longer
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