homeowner’s manual...The new Homeowner’s Manual is your guide to your new home. It tells you what you need to know, from routine upkeep to dealing with emergencies. The CHBA is

homeowner’s manual


Well you’ve worked hard and long, searched far and wide, and that day has finally come… You’ve found that perfect home! Now you ask yourself: “How do I keep it perfect?”

At CMHC we feel that it’s only natural that there be an operator’s manual for the biggest, most important, most expensive purchase of your life… Your Home!! This is why CMHC provides products to better maintain your home from day one and in the years to come.

This Homeowner’s Manual is just the beginning. CMHC also provides such products as:

How to Lock out Crime: Protecting Your Home Against BurglaryThis manual promotes a proactive, community based approach to safety. It walks you through home security from A to Z. An excellent source for advice on how to make your home and neighbourhood more secure.Order # 61124 - $9.95.

Home Care: A Guide to Repair and MaintenanceA complete well-illustrated guide to operating your home from housekeeping tips to putting together a basic tool kit, from replacing a light switch to painting and controlling condensation. Ideal for anyone moving into their first home. Order # 61019 - $6.95

FlexHousing: Homes that Adapt to Life’s ChangesFlexHousing involves designing and building living spaces that are adaptable, accessible, affordable and convertible. This magazine is packed with information about Flex features inside and outside the home. Order # 61844 - $9.95

CMHC also has a wide variety of other publications to help you with your new home. All of which can be found in the Before You Renovate catalogue (order # 61001-FREE). These publications have detailed illustrations, helpful planning guides, and provide countless useful tips on the maintenance and care of your new home. CMHC believes in maintaining the quality and care of the home, and wants to be there with you every step of the way for yours.

Please visit the About your House Factsheet series on our website for additional information on maintaining your home. www.cmhc.ca

Call to order:1-800-668-2642

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www.cmhc.ca

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CONGRATULATIONS ON THE PURCHASE OF YOUR NEW HOME!!

CMHC—Home to CanadiansCanada Mortgage and Housing Corporation (CMHC) has been Canada’s national housing agency for more than 60 years.

Together with other housing stakeholders, we help ensure that the Canadian housing system remains one of the bestin the world. We are committed to helping Canadians accessa wide choice of quality, environmentally sustainable and affordable homes – homes that will continue to create vibrant and healthy communities and cities across the country.

For more information, visit our website at www.cmhc.ca

You can also reach us by phone at 1-800-668-2642 or by fax at 1-800-245-9274.

Outside Canada call 613-748-2003 or fax to 613-748-2016.

Canada Mortgage and Housing Corporation supports the Government of Canada policy on access to information for people with disabilities. If you wish to obtain this publication in alternative formats, call 1-800-668-2642.

CMHC offers a wide range of housing-related information. For details, call 1 800 668-2642 or visit our website at www.cmhc.ca

Cette publication est aussi disponible en français sous le titre : Manuel du propriétaire-occupant 62096

National Library of Canada cataloguing in publication data

Main entry under title :Homeowners’s manualIssued also in French under title : Manuel du propriétaire-occupant.ISBN 0-660-18815-5Cat. no. NH15-386/2003E1. Dwellings – Maintenance and repair – Amateurs manual.I. Canada Mortgage and Housing Corporation.

TH4817.3H65 2003 643’.7 C2003-980159-4

Reprinted: 2005, 2006, 2008

The information contained in this publication represents current research results available to CMHC and has been reviewed by a wide spectrum of experts in the housing industry. This publication is not, however, intended to replace appropriate professional resources. Readers are advised to evaluate the information, materials and techniques cautiously for themselves and to consult appropriate professional resources to determine whether the information, materials and techniques are suitable given their specific circumstances, including but not limited to unit, project and site. The drawings and texts are intended as general practical guidance only and may not be applicable to the reader’s specific circumstances. CMHC assumes no responsibility for any consequences arising from the reader’s use of the information, materials and techniques described herein or from the reader’s reliance thereon.

© 1999 Canada Mortgage and Housing Corporation. All rights reserved. No portion of this book may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, mechanical, electronic, photocopying, recording or otherwise without the prior written permission of Canada Mortgage and Housing Corporation. Without limiting the generality of the foregoing no portion of this book may be translated from English into any other language without the prior written permission of the Canada Mortgage and Housing Corporation.

Printed in Canada

Produced by CMHC

Acknowledgements

This manual owes its existence and quality to many people. At the Canadian Home Builders’Association, Ross Monsour, Don Johnston and Michael Gough supported its creation andassisted CMHC in putting together a National Advisory Committee. The National AdvisoryCommittee members brought intimate knowledge of new homeowners and builders andextensive knowledge of the issues that arise in the operation and maintenance of a house. Itsmembers were:

Lynn Woodcroft, Ontario NHWBruno Nantel, NHWP of APCHQJerry Kondi, NHWP Manitoba Inc.Glen Silliphant, NHWP of SaskatchewanDennis Little, Alberta NHWPPat Mulcahy, Atlantic HWPRosalie Todd, Consumers AssociationNorm Lecuyer, Canadian Association of Home InspectorsNeil Ziola, Sure--Lok Homes Ltd.Charlie Spillane, Ontario Home Builders’ AssociationRichard Lind, Edwards Lind Enterprises Ltd.Frank Szadkowski, NRCan

Prepared for CMHC by Marbek Resource Consultants.

Endorsement

“Your new car comes with an operator’s manual, and the Canadian Home Builders’Association (CHBA) believes your new home should come with an operator’s manual too.

The new Homeowner’s Manual is your guide to your new home. It tells you what you need toknow, from routine upkeep to dealing with emergencies.

The CHBA is proud to have been a part of the team that developed the new Homeowner’sManual. We are committed to building the best and ensuring that you have peace of mind andenjoy your new home.”

–Canadian Home Builders’ Association

module1.

1Original -- January 2000

1 Table of ContentsTable of Contents

1a Introduction

This Manual: What It’s About and How to Use It 5

Guide to Common ProblemsTable of Contents 8

1b Part One

The Whole House — An Overview 13

The Environment in Your House 17

Controlling Moisture 17

Maintaining Air Quality in Your Home 20

Ensuring Energy-efficient Operation 23

A Safe and Secure Home 26

The First Year 30

Warranty Reminder and Maintenance Calendar 33

1c Part Two

SITE 39

Grading and Drainage 41

Landscaping and Vegetation 43

Driveways, Walkways and Paved Patios 46

FOUNDATION AND BASEMENT 49

Foundation Wall 50

Basement or Crawl Space Floor 52

Sump System 53

Teleposts 55

Table of Contents

CMHC 19992Original -- January 2000

ROOF, OUTSIDE WALLS, OTHER 57EXTERIOR FEATURES

Roof 58

Exterior Finish: Wood, Siding and Wood Trim 62

Exterior Finish: Fiberboard, Vinyl or Metal Siding 64

Exterior Finish: Masonry 66

Exterior Finish: Stucco 68

Eavestroughs 69

Caulking 71

Stairs, Porches and Decks 73

Garage or Carport 75

DOORS AND WINDOWS 79

Doors 81

Windows 84

INTERIOR FINISHES 87

Hardwood Floors 89

Resilient Flooring 91

Stone or Ceramic Tile 93

Carpeting 94

Drywall (Wallboard) 96

Countertops and Cabinets 99

HEATING, VENTILATION AND AIR CONDITIONING 101

Heating: Gas Furnace 103

Heating: Oil Furnace 107

Heating: Electric Furnace 111

Heating: Propane Furnace 114

Table of Contents


Integrated Heating and Hot Water System 117

Electric Baseboard Heating 120

Wood Fireplace or Heating Stove 121

Gas Fireplace or Heating Stove 124

Heating and Cooling System: Heat Pump 126

Cooling System: Central Air Conditioning 129

Distribution System: Forced Air Duct System 132

Thermostat 134

Ventilation System: Exhaust Fans 136

Ventilation System: Heat Recovery Ventilator 139

PLUMBING AND HOT WATER 143

Shut-off Valves 146

Hot Water Tank 148

Faucets 151

Drains and Traps 153

Bathroom Sinks, Tubs and Shower Enclosures 157

Toilets 159

Outside Faucet (Hose Bib) 162

Well Water Supply System 164

Septic System or Holding Tank 166

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 169

System Overview 169

Important Safety Tips 170

Operation and Maintenance 171

Table of Contents


Introduction


2 THIS MANUAL: WHAT IT’S ABOUT AND HOW TO USE IT

2a The Purpose of This Manual

This manual is a tool to help you take good care of your new house.Your new house is one of the biggest and most important purchasesyou’ll ever make. You and your builder have gone to a lot of trouble tomake sure the house is one you can be proud of and live in comfortablyfor many years to come. Now, you need to follow through by learningabout the proper operation and upkeep of a range of building systemsand structures. Of course, you have a home warranty plan, and that givesyou some security in case of trouble; but there are a hundred ways ahouseholder can prevent trouble from ever arising, or solve problems theminute they become apparent. To do that, if you’re like most people, youneed some of the focused information and advice that is contained here.Introduction

This Manual Will:

S help you to understand the workings of your house — its keysystems and components, how they work and how they fit together;

S tell you how to maintain those systems and components at a basiclevel;

S offer troubleshooting advice on how to resolve common problems;and

S share some tips on how to run your house in a healthy, efficient andenvironmentally friendly way. This Manual

This Manual Will Not:

S describe in detail how your house is constructed;

S replace the operations and maintenance manuals provided by themanufacturers of specific equipment; or

S serve as a complete home repair guide or substitute for publicationsdealing with specific topics (healthy homes, energy efficiency, etc.).

2b Finding Your Way Through The Manual

Refer first of all to the Table of Contents, which lists every topic coveredin the manual. Then, glance at the table called, Guide to CommonProblems, page 8: here, you’ll find a brief explanation of some of the

This Manual


most common problems that homeowners face. Page references on thistable show you where to go in the manual for more information.

The manual is organized as follows:

PART 1 (five sections) introduces key information and concepts that arecommon to all homes. The Whole House — An Overview shows how atypical house is put together. The Environment in Your House will helpyou to understand and control factors that affect humidity, air quality andenergy use. A Safe and Secure House introduces issues that can affect thewell-being of your house and the people living in it. The First Yearcharts common changes during the initial period of adjustment of thenew house. Finally, the Warranty Reminder and Maintenance Calendarwill help you stay on top of warranty reporting and basic upkeep.

PART 2 (eight sections) contains information on eight differentstructural or functional parts of the house, with information on thesystems, components and materials found in your house: note thatinformation applying to your situation has been selected; that which doesnot apply has been left out. In this way, the manual has been customizedto your house. All sheets are structured the same way, beginning withgeneral background (Description or Overview), followed by guidance onOperation and Maintenance, as well as Troubleshooting advice andAdditional Tips. Get to know your way around Part 2 of the manual: flipthrough the pages and browse a little so that when you need help, youcan zero right in on the relevant section. A series of “icons” highlightspecial kinds of information.

2c Cross-referencing

We have cross--referenced this manual throughout to guide you in yoursearch for information. Keep an eye out for italicized words in the text,for example:

“Maintain easy access to all plumbing Shut-off Valves, page 146.”

This is a reference directing you to the information on Shut-Off Valves inPart 2, page 146. Turn to that section if you need more help.

Special information icons

Caution

Health tip

Note of general interest

Money-saving tip

Security tip

Whom to call

Environmental tip

Introduction

7Revision 1 -- March 2000

2d Whom to Contact?

Sometimes, this manual — having introduced and explained a system orproblem — suggests that you call your builder or seek other expertassistance. Well, which is it? The builder or somebody else?

The First Year: Within one year of buying a new house, you shouldlook to your builder as the logical first point of contact for problems ofworkmanship or materials. Remember, minor problems are common inthe settling-in period. The best approach is simply to keep track ofproblems and notify the builder and your warranty plan before the end ofthe first year. On the other hand, if a significant problem or emergencycomes up in the first year, contact your builder right away. (Of course,the builder is not responsible for damage caused by misuse or accident,or for problems with appliances or materials that another firm installed.)

The Second Year: Under some new home warranty plans, the builderwarrants against certain problems for two years from date of possession.Because the warranties vary so much between the houses and plans, it ishard to generalize.

Five to Ten Years: New home warranty plans usually offer a five-,seven--, or ten--year warranty for significant structural problems. In theunlikely event of such a problem, contact the plan directly.

No Warranty: If the problem you are dealing with is not underwarranty, or if the warranty has expired, contact a building contractor orspecialized expert.

2e Caution!

Home maintenance and repair work can be dangerous. Before goingahead on your own, weigh the risks to your house, yourself and yourfamily. If you are not clear about the problem and how to fix it, if youare unfamiliar with the tools or uncertain of the skills needed, by allmeans hire an expert. Even if you don’t do the work yourself, thismanual will help you understand and manage the work of a contractor. Ifyou do choose to proceed on your own, pay attention to the safety adviceoffered in this manual and wear appropriate footwear and protective gear.Always consult the manufacturer’s instructions before undertakingmaintenance or repair work on equipment.

Guide to Common Problems


3 GUIDE TO COMMON PROBLEMS

Got a particular problem in your house? Scan this alphabetical listing forhints on how to deal with it and where to find more information in thepages that follow.Guide to Common Problems

TOPIC Where to look in this manual?

Cold roomsIf certain rooms in the house are too cold (or too hot), theheat distribution system may need to be rebalanced.

If the floor or the surface of an exterior wall is cold ordrafty, the problem may lie with the air sealing orinsulation rather than the heating system. Contact yourbuilder or a contractor for advice.

S Forced Air Duct System, page 132.

S Electric Baseboard Heating, page 120.

CondensationIf moisture forms on windows, mirrors, basement pipes orother hard surfaces, there is probably too much humidity inthe air inside your house. A number of things can causehigh humidity.

S The Environment in Your House, page 17.

S Roofs, page 58.

S Exhaust Fans, page 136.

S Heat Recovery Ventilator, page 139.

Cracks — foundation, basement floor slabHairline cracks are generally not a problem, unless water isleaking in through them. However, large cracks or bulgesneed to be looked at.

S The First Year, page 30.

S Foundation Walls, page 50.

S Basement or Crawl Space Floor, page 52.

Cracks or gaps — exterior claddingMinor gaps in the siding may be temporary (occurring only incold weather) and may not be a problem if the sidingcontinues to shed water. For reassurance, contact your builder.Similarly, hairline cracks in stucco or in the mortar betweenbricks are common and not generally a cause for concern.Larger cracks, or cracks causing leaks, deserve attention.


S Exterior Finish, page 57.

Cracks or gaps — in drywall, or between walls andcabinets, vanities, bathtub enclosuresMinor cracks or gaps and nail pops in drywall are common andcan be easily repaired. Large cracks or gaps may signify moreserious structural problems.


S Caulking , page 71.

S Drywall (Wallboard) , page 96.

Introduction


Where to look in this manual?TOPIC

Doors or windows jamming, rubbing or refusing to closeChanges in humidity can affect wooden doors. Settlement,which is potentially serious, can cause doors or windows to be“out of square.”


S Doors, page 81.

S Windows , page 84.

S At the end of this table, see also the note on “MajorStructural Defects.”

Drafts — around doors or windowsThe hardware for closing doors or windows in a new housemay need adjustment or, after a while, the weather-strippingmay need replacing. Gaps too large to be weather-strippedmay point to a structural defect.

S General Information, page 79.

S Doors, page 81.

S Windows , page 84.

Dry airIf there is a central ventilation system, it may be operating toooften or at too high a speed.Air that is too dry can irritate the respiratory system (e.g., noseand sinuses), and can cause wood to crack.


Electrical circuit not functioning (no power to lights orappliances)A circuit breaker at the electrical panel or a ground fault circuitinterrupter may have tripped due to a faulty appliance, anoverloaded circuit, a power surge, or faulty wiring.


High heating and cooling costsNew houses are energy-efficient, so it should be easy to keepheating and cooling costs down.If not, there are many steps a homeowner can take to cutdown on the energy used.




S Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning, page 101.

Leaks — basementMany things can cause a basement to leak. To preventstructural and other damage, address the problem quickly.

S Grading and Drainage , page 41.

S Foundation , page 50.

S In this table, see also “Condensation” and “Leaks —plumbing.”




Leaks — plumbingPlumbing leaks can be virtually undetectable, or they can belarge enough to cause serious damage in a short period.Turn off the water at various shut-off valves until you can solvetheproblem. Keep in mind that what looks like a plumbing leakmay be leakage from around the edge of a bathtub or showeror condensation on pipes in the walls.


S Shut-Off Valves, page 146.

S Faucets, page 151.

S Bathroom Sinks, Tubs and Shower Enclosures , page157.

S Toilets, page 159.

S In this table, see also “Condensation.”

Leaks — roof and ceilingsMany things can cause a roof to leak, including damage toroofing materials or flashing, deterioration of caulking, orice dams.

S Roofing, page 58.



Leaks — walls and ceilingsLeaks from damaged siding can cause wet areas to appear onwalls, but there are other possible sources. Diagnosing theproblem is difficult because the wet area may be quite distantfrom the actual source of water.

S Exterior Finish, page 57.


S In this table, see also “Condensation,” “Leaks —plumbing,” “Leaks — roof” and “Leaks — windows.”

Main beam — sagging or bowingAs clay soils expand and contract with changes in weather, thebasement floor may rise and fall slightly. In areas with suchsoils, the posts supporting the beam are made to adjust. Inother cases, however, sagging beams and floors may indicatea major structural defect.

S Teleposts , page 55.

S At the end of this table, see also the note on “MajorStructural Defects.”

MoldsMolds in the house can affect the health of the occupants. Thekey to controlling mold is to prevent dampness.


S In this table, see also “Condensation” and “Leaks.”

No heatSome heating systems shut down automatically if there is anymalfunction (e.g., the exhaust system fails). Also, mostsystems depend on electricity and will not work if the power isinterrupted for any reason. Finally, the thermostat may bebroken.

S Heating System, page 101.

S Thermostat, page 134.


S In this table, see also “Cold rooms.”

Introduction



No hot waterAn interruption in the flow of power or fuel to your hot watertank can affect the availability of hot water. A low setting on thetank’s thermostat or the temporary heavy use of hot watercould mean that the tank has been unable to keep up with thedemand.

S Hot Water Tank, page 148.

Odours — combustion or fuel smellsIf, by accident, combustion gases are being drawn into thehouse (backdrafting), you may notice a burning smell. Youmay also see smoke or feel excessive heat at the air intakeof fuel-burning appliances.

Unburnt natural gas has a characteristic chemical smell. Ifyou notice such a smell, you may have a gas leak.

Backdrafting and natural gas leaks are potentiallydangerous, and you should take no chances. If yoususpect a gas leak, open windows and doors, leave thehouse quickly and call your utility or furnace servicecompany, or your municipality, from a neighbour’sphone.


S A Safe and Secure Home, page 26.

S Heating System, page 103.

Odours — decayIf the smell is coming from the forced air duct system,something may be rotting in a duct.


Odours — sewer likeThe trap for the basement drain or an unused fixture (e.g.,laundry tub may be dry, allowing sewer gas to enter thehouse. This is easily corrected).

S Drains and Traps, page 153.

Odours — stale or damp and mustyInadequate air exchange between the inside and outside of thehouse, or poor circulation of air within the house, will cause airto stagnate and smell stale. If poor circulation is limited toone part of the house, there may be localized condensationand mold growth in the ducts.






Roof damageA severe wind storm can tear shingles loose, even from a newroof. Over the years, roofing material will age and deteriorate.

S Roofing, page 58.

S In this table, see also “Leaks — roof.”




Smoke from combustion appliance S In this table, see “Odours — combustion or fuel smells.”

Squeaky floorsNo wood-frame house is completely squeak-free. However,loud squeaking can often be corrected.


Wood floors — gaps or ripplingMinor changes in humidity can cause small expansions andcontractions as floorboards shrink or swell.


S Hardwood Floors, page 89.

S In this table, see also “Condensation” and “Dry Air.”

3a Major Structural Defects

If you believe you are dealing with a major structural defect, turn toPart 3 for information on the home warranty plan. Such defects areuncommon in new houses, but when they occur they are usuallywarranted for a period of from five to seven years, depending on yourparticular plan. Major structural defects include failures in anyload-bearing elements of the house, or any faults that significantly affectthe use of your home. A sagging ceiling or floor may alert you to astructural defect, as may doors and windows that are permanently “out ofsquare” (i.e., they do not fit properly in their frames) and major cracks infoundations or drywall.

Part One


4 THE WHOLE HOUSE — AN OVERVIEW

Your house is a system of connected parts that fit together to make astrong structure and a comfortable living space. The basic structure of ahouse is made up of the foundation and frame. The envelope is thehouse’s shell, which separates the indoor space from the outside. Thefinishes and services are those final touches that make your housefunctional, comfortable and attractive.The Whole House

The description that follows best fits a typical wood-frame (orsteel-frame) house. In some innovative new hybrid housing, thestructure, insulation, water and vapour protection, and sometimes eventhe finishes, are integrated into a single system. Part One

4a The Foundations

The foundations of a typical house consist of footings and the foundationwall, usually made of concrete. To protect the foundations from frostdamage, they are set in below the frost line. (The excavation for thefoundation makes room for a basement or crawl space.) Columns, restingon their own footings on the basement floor, support the main beam ofthe house.

An alternative to the typical foundation system is called “slab-on-grade.”In this type of construction, the house is set on a concrete slab at groundlevel, and there is no basement.

See Foundations and Basements, page 49, for more information andmaintenance tips for the foundations.

4b The Frame

The frame is the skeleton of the house and, like the human skeleton, itsupports the body. Following is a description of the typical elements:

S The main beam runs the length of the basement from foundationwall to foundation wall and helps support the floor above. The beam,which is made of steel or wood, is set across two or more posts.

S The floor joists are lengths of lumber laid parallel to each other, andrunning from the top of the foundation walls to the beam.

S The subfloor, made of sheets of plywood or other wood panelmaterial, is nailed to the top of the floor joists.

S The studs are vertical lengths of lumber that frame the walls.

The Whole House


S Trusses are triangular frames that usually span the outside walls toframe the roof.

Floor joists and subfloor

Subfloor

Joist

Together, the foundations and the main beam bear the load of the house.Outside walls are built over the foundation wall, inside load-bearingwalls over the beam. The basic floor and wall structure is repeated oneach ascending floor of the house. The framing is usually strengthenedeither by wood sheathing fastened to the outside, or by diagonal bracing.

As the frame is generally completely enclosed by other materials (seeThe Envelope below), it does not usually require any maintenance.Therefore, it is not discussed in Part 2 of this manual.

4c The Envelope

Materials fastened to or held by the framing compose the envelopewhich, with the framing, make up the walls and roof. Windows anddoors also form part of the envelope.

The components of a typical wall might be as follows:

S The exterior finish may be made of siding, stucco, brick or someother cladding.

S Depending on the type of cladding, there may be an airspace justbehind the exterior finish, to prevent wind from driving rain rightinto the house.

S A sheathing of wood or foam insulation panels may be attached tothe framing. Water-resistant paper (known variously as the airbarrier, wind barrier or building wrap) typically covers the sheathingand helps to shed any water that penetrates the exterior finish. It alsoprotects the insulation.

S Insulation is packed between the wall studs of the frame. Asmentioned in the previous paragraph, insulating panels may also beattached to the surface of the framing.

S A vapour retarder prevents moisture from inside the house frommoving into the walls, thereby protecting the insulation and structure

Part One


from moisture damage. The retarder is usually a plastic sheetingapplied to the inside surface of the framing, just behind the drywallor other interior finish; or can be applied as a coating on the drywall.The sheeting may also serve as the air barrier.

In your new house, a lot of work has gone into making the envelope“tight,” which means keeping out the wind, rain and snow and keepingin the heat. As air most commonly leaks at joints between differentmaterials and around window or door openings, caulking andweather-stripping are critical to ensuring a tight envelope.See Exterior Finishes, page 57 and Doors and Windows, page 79 formore information and maintenance tips for the envelope.

4d Interior Finishes

The interior finishes are those attractive, durable surfaces that allowmembers of the household to live and work in the new house. SeeInterior Finishes, page 87.

4e Services

The basic services in your house are: Heating and Ventilation(page 101), Plumbing (page 143), Electricity (page 169) and telephones.In addition, some houses have other services, such as CentralAir-conditioning (page 129), central vacuum, a security system andcable. The framing of the house usually hides the service ducts, pipesand wires.

CMHC 199916NIL

Cross-section of a wood-frame house

Sheathing Air barrierStuds

Insulation

Roof truss

Weeping tile todrain water awayfrom foundation

Damp proofingon foundationwallFoundation

footings

Foundationwall

Ground level

Exterior finish(brick)


5 THE ENVIRONMENT IN YOUR HOUSE

By understanding the various factors that affect the indoor environment,you can make sure that your house: The Environment in Your House

S is comfortable to live in;

S is healthy;

S is economical to heat and cool; and

S stands up well over time.

Three main factors affect the indoor environment: humidity, air qualityand temperature. They in turn are controlled by occupant lifestyle andthe rate of air exchange (that is, how often stale air in the house iscompletely replaced by fresh air from the outside). Wind, sun and rainalso affect the movement of moisture, air and heat between the insideand outside. This remains true even in new houses, although they arebuilt to allow for careful control of the relationship between the indoorsand the outdoors.

The following three sections describe what you can do in your house:

S to control moisture;

S to maintain good air quality; and

S to ensure energy-efficient operation.

5a Controlling Moisture

Air carries moisture in the form of water vapour. Water vapour moveswith the air, and it can also move slowly through many kinds ofmaterials (e.g., wood, cloth or drywall). As warm, humid air cools, itsability to hold moisture decreases. The result is “condensation,” that is,water droplets or ice crystals forming on cool surfaces or in cool spaces(e.g., on windows, or in attics and basements).

Too much condensation in the house is bad. Over time, dampness willdamage building materials and finishes, such as insulation, wood andpaint. The deterioration of these materials and finishes can give rise, inturn, to a greater release of gases from the materials (off-gassing), whichis a potential health hazard. Dampness can also trigger the growth ofmolds, another source of ill health.

It is important, therefore:

S to watch for signs of humidity;

S to reduce and control humidity;

S to maintain good ventilation and air circulation; and

The Environment in Your House


Humidity balance

Removal Source

VentilationExhaust fans

Furnace operationNatural air change

ShowersPlantsCooking

Seasonal storageDrying firewood

PeopleWet basement

Construction moisture

S to clean up dampness whenever it occurs.

Watch for Signs of High Humidity

If you notice any condensation or mold in the house, you probably needto reduce humidity levels.

Condensation: Water or frost on the inside surface of windows is a suresign of too much humidity in the air (unless it occurs on exceptionallycold days only, and disappears rapidly as the temperature rises). In thebathroom, humidity is likely to condense on the toilet tank, mirrors andwalls. In the basement, condensation can occur on walls, floor and pipes.

Mold: Mold commonly thrives on window sills, on the indoor surfacesof exterior walls, and on the grouting between the ceramic tiles in thebathroom. Look in the basement too. Mold grows well in damp, darkcorners.

Use a hygrometer — available at any hardware or building supply store— to measure humidity levels. A properly calibrated hygrometer willgive you a feel for how humidity varies from room to room over thecourse of a day and over the length of the heating season. The tableshows recommended levels of relative humidity inside the house for arange of outdoor winter temperatures.

Seepage and leaks: Water pooling against the foundation wall can seepinto even well built basements or crawl spaces. Leaks in other parts ofthe house will also add to the moisture load.

Reduce and Control Humidity

When faced with high humidity, the first line of defence is to attack thesource of moisture. Here are some key suggestions:

S If you have a clothes dryer, vent it properly to the outside. Do nothang wet clothes in the basement.

S Use the bathroom Exhaust Fan (page 136) to remove humiditycaused by showering or bathing.

Recommendedmaximum indoorrelative humidity

at indoortemperatureof 21_C (70_F)

Recommended levels of humidity

-29_C(-20_F) 20%-24_C (-10_F) 25%-18_C (0_F) 30%-12_C (10_F) 35%-7_C (20_F) 40%

Outside AirTemperature

Exhaust at moisture sources

Bathroom exhaust

Range hood

Dryer vent


S When cooking, keep lids on boiling pots and run the kitchen ExhaustFan (page 136).

S Securely cover any containers of standing water, including sumppits.

S Do not store wet materials, such as firewood, inside your house.

S Use humidifiers only when necessary (in particular, when relativehumidity is less than 30 per cent).

S If summertime condensation tends to occur in your basement; keepthe windows closed on hot, humid days.

S If your basement is prone to dampness, consider installing aself-defrosting dehumidifier. Run a drainage line directly from thecondensate (water) tray to the floor drain, or else remember to emptythe tray regularly. The tray should also be cleaned periodically.

S Maintain proper site Grading and Drainage (page 41) and keep theEavestroughs (page 69) in good repair, so that water does not poolaround the foundations and seep into the basement.

S Quickly repair leaks in the Roof and Walls (page 58) and in thePlumbing system (page 143).

Maintain Good Ventilation and Air Circulation

Because your new house is solid, with few gaps and cracks, humidindoor air does not readily “escape.” Therefore, you need to ventilateactively, especially in the first two years after construction. Properventilation depends largely on the appropriate use of Exhaust Fans(page 136). If your house has a Heat Recovery Ventilator (page139),learn how to use it. In spring, summer and fall, opening windows anddoors can improve ventilation: however, open windows are not aseffective as exhaust fans or a heat recovery ventilator. Also, rememberthat no kind of ventilation will do much to reduce indoor humidity whenthe outside humidity is high.

In addition to ventilating, you have to keep air circulating through thehouse. If you have a forced air heating system, consider setting the

Some sources of indoor pollution

Sources of Moisture inthe House

Construction moisture: In thefirst year to two years afterconstruction, building materialssuch as wood and concrete dryout and release large quantitiesof moisture to the air.

Occupant-produced moisture:Many household activities addmoisture to the household air —for example, watering plants,drying wet clothes or firewoodindoors, showering, using ahumidifier and stove-topcooking. Breathing addsmoisture too!

Outdoor humidity:Condensation in basementstends to be highest duringhumid weather in the late springand early summer, whenbasement walls and the floorstill retain some of theircold-season coolness. Aswarm, humid air enters thebasement from outside,condensation occurs on coolsurfaces. Building materialsmay also absorb moistureduring seasonal periods of highhumidity: for example, moisturemay be absorbed in summerand released in the fall.



blower fan to operate continuously at low speed (Heating System andThermostat, page 134). If signs of high humidity appear in one part ofthe house, make sure the warm air grilles are not blocked (see the ForcedAir Duct System, page 132). Open interior and closet doors and, ifnecessary, draw back the curtains and move furniture to improve theflow of air into every corner of the house.

5b Maintaining Air Quality in Your Home

We spend a great deal of time in our houses, and the quality of indoor airis important to our health. To ensure good air quality, you must:

S reduce sources of pollution;

S prevent backdrafting;

S prevent mold growth; and

S maintain good ventilation and air circulation.

Reduce Sources of Pollution

Begin to address pollution through lifestyle choices — for example, bybanning cigarette smoking in the house. Also, choose and use chemicalsfor cleaning or maintenance with care. Here are some tips:

S Avoid aerosol products, such as hair sprays, in the house.

S Avoid using chemical pesticides in and around the house.

S Choose environmentally friendly alternatives to common householdchemicals (see box).

S Choose products that bear the logo of Canada’s nationalEnvironmental Choice Program: many of these pollute less than thechemicals in common use.

S If you have to use a strong-smelling or toxic household chemical,follow directions carefully, and ensure good ventilation.

S Carefully seal all cans and bottles that contain strong chemicals —for example, heavy-duty cleaners and paint solvents — that are notbeing used, and keep them in a well ventilated place. Ideally, youshould store them outside the house, in a safe, well ventilated anddry area that cannot be reached by children. Some chemicals shouldnot be allowed to freeze: keep these in a heated storage area.

Items that are commonly found in a household, such as personal care andcosmetic products, hobby supplies and pets can affect the air quality ofyour house.

Finishes and furnishings also affect air quality, with different materialsemitting gases at different rates — for example, wood emits fewerchemicals than particleboard, and natural-fibre rugs less than synthetic

Examples of AlternativeHousehold Products

S Ant and roach traps that useborax mixed with a foodattractant.

S Insecticidal soaps, versuschemical sprays, to controlinsects on house plants.

S Potpourri, made of dried flowersand spices, instead of chemicalair fresheners.

S Common household commodities— for example, baking soda, milddetergent and vinegar — forsome household cleaning tasks.

S Cleaners, paints and otherhousehold products that do notcontain strong solvents.


ones. Given the wide range of materials available to meet any givenneed, it pays to look for low-emission products. Before bringing new ordry-cleaned rugs, bedding or fabric into the house, air them thoroughlyin the outdoors.

Environmental Choice Program Logo

Prevent Backdrafting

When exhaust fans or machinery (e.g., a clothes dryer, central vacuum)draw air out of the house more quickly than intake sources can replenishit, they create a kind of vacuum. To compensate, the house may literallysuck air down the chimney or backwards through the exhaust systems ofcombustion appliances (furnaces, fireplaces, wood or gas heating stoves,etc.). If backdrafting occurs during combustion, the house may draw intoxic combustion products along with the outside air.

Backdrafting is not common, especially in new homes; however, becauseit is dangerous to health, you should know what to do to minimize therisks, and be able to recognize the signs of backdrafting.

The following basic maintenance will minimize the risk of backdrafting:

S Make sure that nothing blocks the air intakes into your house. Labelthe metal hoods that cover the intakes to make them clearly visible,so they will not be covered by accident (General Information,page 101).

S When servicing your Heating System (page 101), make sure that thecontractor inspects the exhaust system, flue and “fail-safe” controls.

S Periodically clean the chimney of a Wood Fireplace or Stove(page 121).

The following signs suggest that backdrafting may be occurring:

S unusual odours from combustion appliances;

S occupants complaining of frequent headaches or nausea; and

S evidence of soot, scorching or melted fittings near air intakes on thefurnace or other combustion appliance.



Carbon monoxide, which is produced in badly tuned or malfunctioningcombustion appliances, is dangerous when combined with backdrafting.A carbon monoxide detector would warn you of this danger.

If you have a backdrafting problem, contact your builder or a heating andventilation contractor. Until the problem is corrected, try to avoidconditions that lead to backdrafting. For example, avoid running toomany exhaust fans at the same time, and do not use the fireplace if thereis backdrafting down the chimney.

Intake hood and duct

Prevent Mold Growth

Molds (also called mildew or fungi) are tiny organisms that live bybreaking down and digesting organic matter. Molds and theirmicroscopic airborne spores can be harmful. Thus, though molds play anessential role in the cycle of life on earth, they do not belong in thehouse. Molds grow only on wet or damp materials, and they grow best indark, humid places. They usually appear as a dark “stain” or a fuzzypatch on the wall or ceiling. Often, a musty smell accompanies theappearance of mold.

The key to controlling mold is dryness; so to prevent mold growth, youhave to control humidity and water penetration. At the same time, youmust ensure good ventilation and air circulation. Advice on these mattersis given under the heading Controlling Moisture. Here are a few moretips:

S Use a cloth or sponge to wipe condensation off windows and othersurfaces as it occurs.

S Keep furniture, curtains and clothing away from cold walls anddamp areas.

S In finishing or renovating the basement, consider using a sheet orwood flooring that will not hold moisture or cause condensationagainst the subfloor.

S Avoid “feeding” molds: keep surfaces dirt- and dust-free.


S Use pure liquid chlorine bleach to clean away mold growth. Beforebeginning, make sure there is good ventilation and put on rubbergloves. Apply the liquid and let it stand on the moldy patch for 10 to15 minutes. Then, rinse well with a mixture made of one part bleachto two parts water with some dishwashing liquid added to removegrime and oil. Let the area dry.

Clear vinegar is an environmentally friendly alternative to liquidbleach. Wash the moldy patch vigorously and rinse severaltimes.

Maintain Good Ventilation and Circulation

Ventilation not only minimizes humidity; it also removes unhealthygases. Good ventilation is always important, but especially during thefirst year of your house’s life, when many building products andfinishing materials (e.g., particleboard, carpeting, paints, new draperiesand furniture) emit chemicals into the air (off-gassing).

Intake Hood and Duct

Never block a fresh air intake or a duct that extends through the wallof your house to the outside. Keep all intakes and outlets clear ofsnow in winter.

Regularly change the filters in your furnace’s air-handling system(Heating System: Furnace, page 101) and, if you have one, in yourHeat Recovery Ventilator (page 139).

5c Ensuring Energy-efficient Operation

The energy efficiency of any house — even one that is well built and hasan efficient heating system — depends on the occupants. Part 2 of thismanual offers many energy-conserving tips: these will save you moneyon your heating bills; often, they will also extend the life of materialsand systems. This section presents some key principles, cross-referencedto more details in Part 2:

S Maintain your Caulking (page 71) and weather-stripping (GeneralInformation, page 79).

S Follow recommended procedures for servicing your Heating System(page 101) and cleaning or replacing air filters.

S If you have a Forced Air Duct System (page 132), efficient heatingand cooling depends on a properly balanced system. Refer to the factsheet for instructions. Also, keep return air grilles and warm airvents clean and free of obstructions.

S If you have a Heat Recovery Ventilator (page 139), maintain it well.



S Turn your Thermostat (page 134) down at night and whenever youneed less heat. A set-back (programmable) thermostat will do thisautomatically. However, setting the temperature back is notrecommended if the house is excessively humid, because coolingsurfaces may cause condensation. To reduce that risk, keep the HeatRecovery Ventilator (page 139) or the furnace fan (Heating Systems,page 101) operating constantly at low speed.

S Reduce the setting of your Hot Water Tank (page 148).

S Install water-conserving Faucets (page 151) and shower heads thatwill reduce water consumption, including hot water.

S To reduce the need for air conditioning, plant deciduous trees on thesouth side of the house (Landscaping and Vegetation, page 43) andkeep windows and window coverings closed in the heat of thesummer day (General Information, page 101).

S When buying a major new appliance (i.e., fridge, stove, freezer,dishwasher, clothes washer, clothes dryer), check the EnerGuiderating on the sticker pasted to the appliance. This rating indicates themonthly energy consumption in kilowatt-hours for the particularmodel. Natural Resources Canada also publishes an EnerGuideDirectory, rating all models currently on the market.

25NIL

For More Information

Buying and Using Energy-Efficient Appliances. Natural ResourcesCanada, M91-10/1-1995E.

Clean-Up Procedures for Mold in Houses. CMHC, 1993, 32 pages,#6753E.

EcoBuyer Catalogue. Environmental Choice Program. Fax: TerraChoiceEnvironmental Services, (613) 247-2228.

EnerGuide Directory of Household Appliances. Natural ResourcesCanada, M27-103-1997.

How to Improve the Quality of Air in Your Home. CMHC Consumers’Series, 1989, 18 pages, #6177B.

Investigating, Diagnosing and Treating your Damp Basement. CMHC,1992, 122 pages, #6541E.

Moisture and Air: Problems and Remedies. CMHC Householder ’s Guide,1989, 29 pages, NHA 5968.

R-2000: Ventilation and Indoor Air Quality. Natural Resources Canada,M92-81-3-1994.

The Clean Air Guide: How to Identify and Correct Indoor Air Problems inYour Home. CMHC, 1993, 32 pages, # 6695E.

If members of your household are environmentally sensitive, getin touch with the Allergy and Environmental Health Associationto learn how to limit their exposure in the home. The Associationhas branches in several provinces, including British Columbia,Ontario, New Brunswick and Nova Scotia.

A Safe and Secure Home


6 A SAFE AND SECURE HOME

Feeling secure in your house depends largely on what you do to prevent,prepare for and respond to emergencies. Security means foreseeinghazards before they turn into real problems. It also means knowing whatto do — and being equipped to act — when an emergency arises. Readthis section for advice on how to deal with fire, flood, gas leaks or theft.Specifically, this section shows what you can do:A Safe and Secure Home

S to prevent serious emergencies;S to prepare for emergencies; andS to respond to emergencies in a way that limits risk to life, health and

property.

First Steps

1. Keep a list of emergency numbers by the phone and make sure thateveryone in the house knows how to reach firefighters, an ambulanceand the police. Also list telephone numbers for:S household members at work or school;S some close neighbours;S municipal emergency services;S your gas utility;S your security company; andS your insurance company.

2. As a minimum, keep a fully charged multi-purpose dry chemical fireextinguisher (marked with the symbols A, B and C) in the kitchen.Service or replace it as required.

3. If small children live in the house or visit it regularly, do some basicchild-proofing: lock chemicals and medicines away; cover electricaloutlets; and block stairs and pools away from children. Keep a wellstocked first aid kit in the house.

4. Make sure that all household members know where to find:S the main electrical switch (General Information, page 169);S the main water shut-off; andS the shut-offs to various fixtures (Shut-Off Valves, page 146).Tag all system shut-offs, so that they are easily found in anemergency.

5. Leave a spare key with a trusted neighbour or in a securecombination lock box.

6. To help you deal with insurance claims, inventory all valuables inyour home, recording the serial and model numbers of portableappliances. Then lodge the inventory in a safe place outside thehouse.

How to Lock Out Crime: ProtectingYour Home Against Burglary.CMHC, 1996, 36 pages, #6923E.

Home Care (Fire Safety,pp. 81-86). CMHC, 1985,116 pages, #5624E.

Cleaning Up Your House after aFlood. CMHC, 1994, 39 pages,#6789E.



6a Reducing the Risk . . .

Keep smoke alarms in working order. Testas per manufacturer ’s instructions.

Use only electrical appliances approved bythe Canadian Standards Association or theUnderwriters Laboratories of Canada.

Keep appliances and electrical cords ingood condition.

Get to know your neighbours! Join a“Neighbourhood Watch” program.

Secure all windows and doors before goingout. If you need to leave a key outside, donot hide it around the house: leave it with atrusted neighbour.

Keep the garage door closed and locked, notonly to protect valuables in the garage, butalso to prevent a would-be burglar fromfinding and using a ladder or other tools tobreak into the house.

Consider installing a backflow preventer(backwater valve) to reduce the risk of floodingfrom surges in the sewer system. Consult yourmunicipality on whether this is recommendedfor your area.

Maintain proper site Grading and Drainage(page 41). If you have a Sump System(page 53), keep it in good working order..

Keep chimneys clean and in good condition.

Do not use higher-wattage bulbs than areapproved for the fixture.

Avoid storing flammable liquids in or aroundthe house and do not store flammablematerials near combustion appliances.

Prevent grease from building up around thestove.

When renovating, maintain requiredclearances around combustion appliances(e.g., do not install wall-to-wall carpetingright up to the fireplace).

Do not install locks on doors to children’sbedrooms and, unless they can be easilyreleased from the inside, on doors to anyother occupied rooms.

. . . Fire

. . . Flood

Do not leave the house unheated during aprolonged winter absence. Frozen water canburst pipes and tanks. Turn the heat downbut not off. As an extra precaution, you candrain the plumbing system: seek advice onhow to do this.

If you vacate the house for an extendedperiod at any time of year, turn off thewater supply to the washing machine to

eliminate the risk of flooding if the hoseconnection should break.

For extra security, turn off the water atthe main interior Shut-off Valve(page 146): but if you do this, be sure aswell to turn off the Hot Water Tank(page 148).

. . . Theft

If your house uses natural gas, considerinstalling a gas detector, available at

When leaving home for a while, try to makethe house look occupied. Stop deliveries, aska neighbour to collect the mail and arrangefor someone to shovel the driveway or mowthe grass. Leave on an outdoor light and ahallway light inside. Consider installing timersfor the lighting system.

Burglars can hide in vegetation, so keepdoors and windows clear of shrubbery.

Consider installing a burglar alarm. Considerputting metal bars or some other windowguard on basement windows. Position the

bars on the inside of the window andmake sure that, while discouraging entry,they do not prevent ready exit.

On request, your local police may inspectyour home for security, and advise youon alarm systems.

If you are alone in the house, identifycallers before opening the door. Lookthrough the window or peephole, if yourdoor has one, or install a chain guard sothat you can safely open the door a littleto see who is there.

. . . Gas Leakhardware stores. This device will sound analarm in case of a gas leak.

. . .Carbon Monoxide (CO)

The incomplete combustion of fuel canproduce CO, which is toxic. To ensure properintake of air for safe combustion, check thatnothing blocks the air supply, draft hoods,

Where required by law, a CO detector willhave been installed by the builder.Otherwise, if you have combustionappliances that create a risk, you mayinstall a detector.

exhaust ducts or flues of any combustionappliance. Keep furnace panels and grillesin place when the appliance is operating.

A Safe and Secure Home


6b Preparing for . . .

Make sure that everyone in the houseknows what to do in case of fire:

Identify escape routes, make sure that alloccupants are able to use them, and ensurethat the routes are kept clear.

Identify a place outside where householdmembers can gather after escaping thehouse.

Review these basic fire procedures with allhousehold members:

Use an electrical engraving pen to mark yoursocial insurance number on valuable portableitems in your house. Your insurance agent orthe local police department may loan outthese pens, or they can be purchased at ahardware store.

Your police department may also provide“Operation Identification” decals which,when placed on doors and windows, willdiscourage burglars.

Find out if your area has ever been floodedand how high the waters rose. If possible,keep valuables above the high-water mark.

Store household chemicals in a high placeso that, in case of flood, wide-spreadcontamination will be avoided.

S Shout “FIRE” and get out of the housequickly.

S If there is smoke, cover nose and mouthwith a cloth; then get down close to thefloor on hands and knees (smoke rises).

S Before opening a closed door, feel it. If itis hot, do not open it. Find another wayout or open a window slightly and callfor help.

Place a multi-purpose fire extinguisher(one rated for A-, B- and C-type fires) inthe kitchen. Consider installing others inthe basement and master bedroom. Showeveryone in the household how theextinguishers work. Service or replace fireextinguishers as required (service andexpiry dates are usually marked on theextinguisher).

. . . Fire

. . . Flood

If a flood is pending and time permits, movevaluables to the highest spot in the house.If it is not possible to move heavy appliancesand furniture, raise them off the floor byplacing them on concrete or wooded blocks.

Before evacuating the house, turn off thegas, electricity and water.

Leave a note specifying where you canbe reached in the mailbox.

. . . Theft

Natural gas is odourless, but a characteristicodour is added to the fuel to alert you in caseof a leak. If you are not familiar with the smell

In addition to a written inventory of valuablesin your house, ask your insurance companyif photographs or a video are recommendedto record jewelry, art or other unique items.

. . . Gas Leakof gas, your gas utility may be able to sendyou a “scratch and sniff” card.


6c Responding to . . .

Don’t panic. Shout “FIRE” to alert everyone,then get out of the house as quickly aspossible. Do not dress or retrieve anybelongings. Close doors behind you as youleave. Stay close to children and the elderly.Make sure that no-one re-enters the house.

In case of smoke, cover nose and mouthwith a cloth. Smoke rises, so get down onhands and knees and stay close to the floor.Feel any door before you open it and, if it ishot, leave it closed. Try to find another wayout or open a window slightly and call forhelp.

Do not enter the house if you see that a dooror window has been forced or broken.

Live-powered equipment in a floodedhouse can cause electric shocks. Donot step into a flooded area if electricoutlets (plug-ins) are submerged or ifit is possible that electric applianceswere left on (e.g., sump pump, electricfurnace, electric heater, dehumidifier).If the electric circuit board is

Once out of the house, call the fire departmentfrom a neighbour ’s phone.

In the event of a chimney or stove fire, closethe fireplace or stove doors and vents,evacuate the house and call the firedepartment.

For an oil fire (for example, in a fry pan),do not use water! Turn off the stove andcover the pan or close the oven door.Pour baking soda on the fire or use amulti-purpose or B-type fireextinguisher. Do not move a burning pan.

For an electrical fire, unplug the applianceif possible. Then use a multi-purpose fireextinguisher or throw baking soda on theflames. Do not use water: you may get anelectric shock.

When using a fire extinguisher, aim at thebase of the fire, not into the flames.

If clothes catch fire, do not run. Roll in arug, coat or blanket to smother the flames.

. . . Fire

. . . Flood

accessible from a dry place, turn off the mainelectrical switch (General Information,page 169).

If a major plumbing leak caused theflood, turn off the water at the fixtureshut-off or the main water shut-offvalve (Shut-Off Valves, page 146).

During a flood, the basement and itscontents can soak up a great deal ofwater. Unless the basement dries outquickly, that water may damage thebuilding and, through the growth ofbacteria and mold, affect the health ofoccupants. Your municipality or insurancecompany can direct you to a buildingcleaning and restoration company.

. . . Theft

If you smell gas, and if you have a gas stove,gas fireplace or any other gas appliances,check that the gas is turned off.

If you cannot shut off the tanks or appliances,or if these are not apparently the source ofthe smell, open some windows and doorsand leave the house immediately. Call yourgas utility or emergency municipal numberfrom a nearby phone.

Do not turn any electrical switches orcause any sparks or flames.

. . . Gas Leak

If there are gas tanks sitting outside thehouse, turn off the gas supply at the shut-offs(located where the supply line to the houseleaves the tank).

If your gas comes from a municipal supplyline, the shut-off valve is located outside thehouse, on the gas supply line where it entersthe gas meter. Use a wrench to turn theshut-off valve to the “off” position. Do notre-enter the house to get a wrench.(Remember to re light pilot lights once thegas is turned back on.)

A strong gas odour in your yard,street or a nearby excavation couldmean a damaged gas pipe or main.Keep out of the area and call yourgas utility immediately.

If escaping gas is burning, do not tryto put out the flame. Call the fire de-partment.

Some people are extremely sensi-tive to gas in even the smallestquantities. If you find yourself feelingconstantly unwell while at home,consider having the gas checked forleakage.

Call the police from a nearby phone.

The First Year


7 THE FIRST YEAR

With good maintenance, you can expect many years of problem-freeperformance from your house. You should be aware, however, that thefirst year is always a period of adjustment for a new house. During thistime, a whole range of minor changes — the most common ones arelisted below — occur in most houses. Read on to find what you and yourbuilder can do to help the house settle in. A word of advice: rather thancalling your builder whenever a minor problem arises, simply keep trackof problems over the first year. Then, toward the end of the one-yearwarranty period, notify your builder and your home warranty plan inwriting of everything that has happened. The First Year

This manual will give you a good sense of what is a minor defect orwhat may be a sign of a problem that can get worse over time. Reportsigns of potentially big problems early.

7a Site and Landscaping

Minor ground settlement: As the soil settles around the new house,you may notice slight depressions next to the foundation walls. Thesedepressions should be filled with earth so that rain and meltwater willcontinue to drain away from the foundations (Grading and Drainage,page 41). Your builder may repair significant settlement under the sodduring the first year.

Incomplete landscaping: Landscaping work must be timed according toweather and ground conditions, so the builder may not have finishedlandscaping by your move-in date (Landscaping and Vegetation,page 43).

Death of established trees or other vegetation: Grading or servicing ofthe building lot during construction often disrupts the water table ordamages tree roots. Thus, the warranty does not cover vegetation thatwas on the site before construction, and the homeowner is usuallyresponsible for removing trees and shrubs that do not survive.

Settlement of asphalt driveways: New asphalt will likely show someminor settlement, flaking off of stones, and tire marks. Assuming yourdriveway has been adequately cared for (Driveways and Walkways,page 46), other more significant problems may be covered by warranty.


7b Foundations and Basements

Cracks in the concrete foundation walls, basement floor and garagefloor: In the first few months, concrete goes through a “curing” anddrying process, and contraction and expansion may cause minor cracks.Minor soil settlement under the foundations can also cause a littlecracking. Small cracks (less than the thickness of a quarter) are not astructural concern, and you can seal them. However, if larger cracks orleaks occur, contact your builder. You should seal a concrete garage floorafter the first year to protect it against salt, oil and fuel leaks(Foundation Walls and Basement or Crawl Space Floor, page 52;Garages and Carports, page 75).

White “dust” on basement walls: As concrete dries, the salts used inmaking it leech out, leave a residue on the surface. This is normal duringthe first year, and the white “dust” can usually be removed with waterand a brush. If, however, new patches of salt residue continue to appearover the longer term, it may mean that water is seeping through theconcrete. This is serious, as water can damage the building and itscontents and promote mold growth: you should address the problem.Water pooling around the foundations is a common cause of seepage(Grading and Drainage, page 41; Eavestroughs, page 69).

7c Exterior Walls and Roof

Hairline cracks in mortar, stucco or brick joints: Temperatureextremes and slight settlement can cause fine cracks to appear in mortaror stucco: such cracks are not usually a cause for concern. Bring largercracks to the attention of your builder (Exterior Finishes, page 57).

Slight gaps in siding: Temperature changes and wood shrinkage cancause small gaps to appear in wooden siding. As long as the sidingcontinues to shed water, such gaps are not usually a problem. However,contact your builder if you see any large gaps or buckling of the siding(Exterior Finish: Siding, page 57).

7d Inside the House

Imperfectly fitting door in its frame:Wood shrinks during thedrying-out period and also responds to changes in temperature andhumidity. If doors continue to fit badly at the end of the first year, informyour builder. The wood in the door may be warped, or the house mayhave settled (Doors, page 81).

Visible seams in resilient subfloor: Few subfloors are perfectlyseamless; however, prominent ridges are not acceptable. The builder may

The First Year


repair ridges, as well as nail pops and depressions, at the end of the firstyear.

Wrinkled or buckled carpet: Ridges in the subfloor may cause thecarpet to wrinkle; or the carpet may simply need to be restretched orresecured. Notify your builder.

Floor squeaks: The wood-frame structure of the house containsmoisture. As the house is lived in, and especially during the first twowinter heating seasons, the wood dries out and shrinks and shiftsslightly: the result is squeaking. A totally squeak-free wood-frame houseis a virtual impossibility; however, excessive squeaking can be fixed.Ask your builder.

Nail pops or hairline cracks in the drywall: The normal drying outand shrinking of lumber, or minor settlement of the house, may pushdrywall nails or screws out of the wood and cause hairline cracks andother minor defects in the drywall. Truss uplift (a bowing of the rooftruss chord) can also cause cracks where the drywall joins at walls andceilings on the upper floor. A slight bowing is common, and it may beimpossible to prevent it completely.

The builder may not be responsible for a small number of isolated nailpops, but will usually repair damaged areas of drywall at the end of thefirst year. The homeowner usually takes responsibility for repainting orrefinishing the walls. As the drywall will probably need minor repairsafter the initial period, new homeowners should wait at least two yearsbefore redecorating (Drywall, page 96).

Minor cracks in woodwork joints; minor gaps between walls andcabinets, vanities, countertops or bathtubs; and minor gaps in woodflooring: Again, the natural movement of lumber as it dries and shrinkscauses all kinds of small gaps and cracks. Gaps in flooring may occur ona seasonal basis, appearing in dry winter weather and disappearing insummer (Hardwood Floors, page 89). Where cracks or gaps open uparound bathtubs or other areas prone to wetness, remove and replace thecaulking immediately (Caulking, page 71; Bathroom Sinks, Tubs andShower Enclosures, page 157). The builder will normally repair severecracks or separations at the end of the first year.

Higher levels of condensation: Many construction materials containmoisture and, as they dry out during the first year, they contribute torelatively high indoor humidity. It is important to control indoorhumidity (The Environment in Your House, Controlling Moisture,page 17).

Unbalanced heating and cooling: After living for a while in the newhouse, you may realize that some rooms are too hot and others too cool.It is usually possible to rebalance the distribution of heat (or cool air, ifyou have air conditioning) to suit your needs and preferences. If youhave a forced air heating system see Forced Air Duct System, page 132.


8 WARRANTY REMINDER AND MAINTENANCE CALENDAR

8a Homeowner Warranty Reporting Responsibilities

As the owner of a new house, you can embark on home ownership withconfidence; house construction methods now produce superior, reliableproducts. However, as with all products, things can and do go wrongoccasionally. To guard against this eventuality, product and componentmanufacturers, and the trades people who install them, providewarranties. These differ from one to another manufacturer as to theextent of what they cover. Familiarize yourself with the content of thesewarranties because you may inadvertantly make them invalid by notfollowing the instructions properly.

Similarly, the whole house might also be covered by a warranty. Yourbuilder makes that choice and would normally discuss with you whatcoverage is included in the purchase agreement.

In both the product and the whole house cases, there are a few things youmust do to make sure the warranty will cover you as intended. The table“Homeowner Warranty Reporting Responsibilities” offers a few usefulreminders.

Another useful tool is the Seasonal Maintenance Calendar (see nextpage). The information in Part 2 of this manual addresses housemaintenance in a comprehensive way. However, some maintenance isespecially important. Use the calendar to remind yourself of keymaintenance activities throughout the year. Remember that noteverything in the calendar is necessarily relevant to your house. Forexample, if you have electric baseboard heating, instructions related tothe furnace do not apply.

If the manufacturer has provided instructions with equipment ormaterials, read them before starting in on maintenance or repairs.

Warranty and Maintenance

CMHC 199934Revision 1 -- March 2000

Time Homeowner Responsibility

Date of Possession(Closing Day)

Conduct a careful pre-delivery inspection of your house, with your builder ’s representative. On the standard formthat your builder supplies, write down anything that is unsatisfactory. Once the form has been filled and signed,the builder will copy and will respond with a plan of action.

If you later discover a problem that existed before you took possession, but that you did not list on the form,report it in writing to your builder.

Before the end ofYear 1

Most builders and their trades cover a good range of defects in work or materials that are likely to showup within the first year. Notify your builder in writing before the end of the first year.

Suggestion: Keep track of minor problems and file a single report close to the year end.Warranty and Maintenance

Before the end ofYear 2

As well as the first year coverage, your builder may also provide two-year coverage for a small number ofproblems (e.g., water seepage or leaks or problems affecting the electrical, plumbing and heating systems).You must report the problem in writing to the builder before the end of the second year.

Within 5, 7 or 10years

Warranty plans cover major structural defects (i.e., faults in materials or workmanship that cause failure of aload--bearing part of the structure or that seriously affect your use of the house) for five, seven, or, in cases, tenyears. If major problems arise, notify your builder immediately.


8b Seasonal Maintenance Calendar

NotesMaintenance Activity Page

January / February

Clean or replace furnace filter. Heating System, page 103Warranty and Maintenance

Check/clean heat recovery ventilator; wash or replacefilter.

Heat Recovery Ventilator,page 139

y

Ensure that air intakes, exhausts and meters are clearof snow.

Heating System; ExhaustFans, page 136; HeatRecovery Ventilator,page 139

Clean humidifier Heating System, page 101

Clean range hood filter Exhaust Fans, page 136

Check basement floor drain Drain and Traps, page 153

March / April

Clean or replace furnace filter Heating System, page 101

Check/clean heat recovery ventilator; wash or replacefilter.



Check sump pump Sump System, page 53

Check gutters and downspouts and clean if needed Eavestroughs , page 69

Inspect air conditioning; service as needed (usuallyevery two or three years)

Central Air-conditioning ,page 129

Inspect basement or crawl space for signs ofseepage/leakage.

Foundation Walls, page 50,Basement or Crawl SpaceFloor, page 52

Ensure that ground slopes away from foundation wall. Grading and Drainage ,page 41

May / June

Open outside hose connection. Outside Faucet, page 151

Clean windows, screens and hardware; install screens Windows , page 84

Check that air intake and exhausts are clear of debris,nests, etc.

General Information;Exhaust Fans, page 136


Undertake spring landscape maintenance; fertilizeyoung trees.

Landscaping andVegetation , page 43




July / August

Air out damp basements on dry days or usedehumidifier

The Environment in yourHouse, page 17

For central air conditioning, clean filter in air handlingunit.

Central Air-conditioning ,page 129

Check exterior finishes Exterior Finish, page 57

Check exterior wood for deterioration General Information,page 57

Check caulking and weatherstripping, includingaround entry door from garage and house

Caulking , page 71 GeneralInformation, page 79.

Check basement floor drain trap; replenish if needed Plumbing , page 153

Have furnace/heating system serviced (every two yearsfor an electric furnace)

Heating System, page 101

September / October

Check fireplace and chimney; service or clean ifneeded

Heating System, page 101


Clean leaves out of eavestroughs Eavestroughs , page 69

Check roofing and flashing for signs of wear ordamage

Roofing, page 58

Close outside hose connection Outside Faucets, page 151

Close windows, skylights Windows , page 84

Winterize landscaping Landscaping andVegetation , page 43

November / December

Clean or replace furnace filter Heating System, page 101

Check or clean heat recovery ventilator; wash orreplace filter



Check exhaust fans Exhaust Fans, page 136


8c Annual Maintenance Calendar


Annually

Dust or vacuum electric base boards Electric Base BoardHeating, page 120

Vacuum ducts behind warm air and return air grilles Forced Air Duct System,page 132

Test plumbing shut-off valves to ensure they areworking

Shut-off valves, page 146

Test pressure relief valve on hot water tank; drainsome water from tank

Hot Water Tank, page 148

Do safety checks; smoke alarm, fire escape routes,fire extinguisher, door and window locks

A Safe and Secure Home,page 26

Check and, if needed, oil door hinges Doors, page 81

Lubricate garage door motor, chain, etc. Garage or Carport, page 75

Check attic for signs of moisture Roofing, page 58

Check septic system; clean if needed (usually aboutevery three years)

Septic System or HoldingTank, page 166

Other (fill in)

Every 2 to 5 years

Resurface asphalt driveway Driveways, Walkways andPaved Patios, page 46

Check the chimney cap and the caulking betweenthe cap and the chimney

Roofing, page 58

Recaulk as necessary Caulking , page 71

Refinish wood surfaces, including window frames anddoors

Exterior Finish: Siding,page 57 GeneralInformation, page 79

Have ducts cleaned if needed (5 years) Forced Air Duct System,page 132

Other (fill in)



Part Two — Site


9 GENERAL INFORMATION

9a Overview

The “site” refers to land that you own and on which your house stands.Key elements of the site are as follows:Part Two — SiteGeneral Information

S Boundaries: Before construction of the house began, your lot wassurveyed and “pins” (usually metal bars in the ground) were drivenin at all corners of the property. Later, after the foundations werebuilt, the surveyor recorded the position of the house relative to thelot lines and prepared a lot survey plan or surveyor’s certificate. Acopy of this should have been included with the legal documents youreceived when you took possession of your house. 1.

S Utility Services: Traditionally, overhead service lines for electricity(hydro), phone and cable television run from a utility pole to eachhouse; however, in new housing subdivisions, these lines are ofteninstalled underground (General Information, page 169). Unless youhave a well, buried municipal water pipes deliver water, and a buriedpipe also removes sewage. There is a municipally operated watershut-off at the property line (General Information; Shut-off Valves,page 146). Buried pipes may also deliver gas to your property.

S Easement: On some lots, public utilities have “easements” whichmeans that the utility has a legal — but limited — right to use yourproperty for service pipes or wires. For example, there may be a

General Information


distribution line for electricity on your property; or there may be aneasement for its future installation.

S Site Grading and Drainage: Your site has been graded (sloped) sothat rainwater and snowmelt flow away from the house and thedriveway or parking areas, rather than pooling and seeping in aroundthem (Grading and Drainage, page 41).

S Landscaping and Vegetation: Grass and other plants, trees andshrubs may have been planted on your site to give it a pleasingappearance, to maintain soil quality, and to provide other benefits(Landscaping and Vegetation, page 43).

S Driveways and Walkways: These are important site features thatwill benefit from basic care and maintenance (Driveways andWalkways, page 46).

9b Care and Maintenance

If you plan to install fences, hedges or markers of any kind along the siteboundary, make sure you keep within your own property lines, as shownon your lot survey plan. Do not rely on survey pins, as they may havebeen dislodged or buried during construction, or moved duringlandscaping. Also, do not assume that physical features, such as swales(depressions in the ground) or utility poles, mark the boundaries. If youare uncertain where the lot lines run, call on a qualified land surveyor.

Call before you dig! If you are planning work with mechanicaldigging equipment — anything from tree planting or installing afence to building a deck or addition to your house — check withthe local utilities first to make sure there are no undergroundlines in the path of excavation. Most utilities will mark thelocation of their services at no expense to you.

Builder’s orHomeowner ’s Notes

Type/location of survey pins

Location of gas lines

Other

Part Two — Site


10 GRADING AND DRAINAGE

10a Description

Your site has been graded so that the land slopes slightly away from yourhouse and driveway. This prevents rainwater and snowmelt from poolingagainst the foundation or driveway; instead, water drains down tomunicipal storm sewers or ditches, or to parts of the lot where it can seepharmlessly into the soil. Grading and Drainage

Grading to drain water away from house

Where the ground had to be built up higher than the basement windowlevel to ensure proper drainage, window wells may have been installed.These wells usually drain to weeping tile (perforated drainage pipes) laidout around the bottom of the foundation.

Swales and catch basins are dug on some sites to control storm floodingand snowmelt. A swale is a shallow valley cut into a slope and used todivert water from around a building. A catch basin is a shallowdepression with a sewer grate used to drain rainwater into the municipalsewage system. For steeply sloping sites, terracing— which meansbreaking a slope into a series of “steps” — supports the slope andminimizes erosion.

Your house may be fitted with gutters and downspouts to direct run-offfrom the house away from the foundation (Eavestroughs, page 69).


Though your builder originally piled soil up beside the foundation tocreate a correctly sloped grade, settling may have resulted in some low

Grading and Drainage


areas. Shovelling earth into depressions near the foundation will stopwater from pooling and seeping in around the foundation. You can “topup” the earth in this way anywhere that soil has settled.

Grading, downspout and splash block to protect foundation

Downspout

Splash block

Well-drainedbackfill

Less porous claycap

10% slopefor 2 m (6.5 ft)

If you have basement window wells, drainage swales or catch basins onyour property, keep them free of anything that might interfere withdrainage, including leaves or snow and ice build-up.

When landscaping, make sure that water continues to flow in the samedirection, away from the house. Also, no matter what changes you maketo your own site, remember that you are prohibited under law fromblocking the natural flow of water between your land and that of yourneighbours, or causing water to be diverted onto their land.

Do not build the soil up any higher than 200 mm (8 in.) below the top ofthe exposed foundation wall (Foundation Walls, page 50). Never coverexterior cladding (e.g., siding, stucco or brick) with soil.


Part Two — Site


11 LANDSCAPING AND VEGETATION

11a Description

Landscaping — including the planting of lawns and shrubbery — iswhat turns a raw construction site into a pleasant and habitable property.Landscaping depends on weather and the seasons, and the builder maynot have had the necessary time and conditions to finish all the outsidework before you moved in. If not, talk to your builder to make sure thatlandscaping will be completed as soon as conditions permit. Landscaping and

Vegetation


Lawn

To encourage a lush lawn, fertilize the grass as soon as your builder saysthat it can be walked on without damage. After that, regular fertilizing inspring and fall will help maintain the grass. Purchase lawn fertilizer atany garden centre.

In the first few weeks after sodding or seeding, water the grass every dayor two. Once the grass is established, water once or twice a week duringdry periods, throughout the summer growing season. Water generously,wetting the soil to a depth of at least 120 mm (5 in.). Water against thehouse as little as possible. See Additional Tips for ways to conservewater.

Once the lawn is established, cut it weekly — but no shorter than 25 mm(2 in.) — with a sharpened lawn mower. In spring, when the lawn iswater-logged, stay off the grass. Rake the lawn well in fall.

Trees

Surround every newly planted tree or shrub with a “pit” — a shallowdepression of soil about 1 m (3 ft.) wide at the base of the tree— andpreserve it for the first two years of a tree’s life: this pit ensures that theroots get enough water during that critical period. Keep tree pits free ofweeds and work the top 100 mm (4 in.) of soil periodically to allow airand water to get to the tree roots. Never raise the soil above the base ofthe trunk. In the spring and summer of the tree’s first year or two, waterthe tree pit thoroughly once a week; twice a week during hot, dry spells.

Fertilize trees at least once a year, either in early spring or late fall, forthe first three to five years. Periodically check young trees for disease

Burnt grass: Light wateringencourages the growth of shallowroots and produces grass that isprone to “burning” in dry spells.Longer watering once or twice aweek is better than short dailywatering.

Winter kill: Grass and shrubs sufferif the snow above them is packeddown (e.g., for a skating rink) oraggressively cleared away. Roadsalt draining from the driveway canalso kill grass and plants.

Troubleshooting

Additional Tips

The right plants in the right placescreate a healthy, attractivelandscape and reduce the level ofwork and chemicals needed tokeep it green. Things to consider inchoosing plants for your siteinclude: sun, wind, rain, traffic andhow big the plant will grow. Seekexpert advice from your gardencentre or a landscaping company.

Many pesticides andherbicides are poisonousand harmful to children, pets,birds and wild animals.Chemical fertilizers inrainwater run-off canoverload streams and lakeswith nutrients that disrupt thenatural balance.

S Go to a gardening centre, libraryor local environmental group tolearn about alternativeapproaches.

S Choose a lawn care orlandscaping company that hasan ecologically friendly approach.

S Dig up dandelions, or use a weedstick.

Landscaping and Vegetation


and insect infestation and treat them, if necessary. A garden centre canprovide advice and materials. Prune deciduous trees in late winter orearly spring before budding starts.

Newly planted shrub showing pit

Saucer

Rootball thatis balled andburlapped

Topsoil mixtureMulch

Landscaping next to the house

Keep the earth of raised beds at least 200 mm (8 in.) below the top of thefoundation wall. To minimize root damage, interference with drainageand soil settlement, plant trees at least 3 m (10 ft.) from the house andshrubs at least 0.3 m (1 ft.) away.

Planting for solar benefitand windbreak

Full foliage of deciduous treesprotects against summer sun

Leafless deciduous trees in winterlet winter sun through

Wind deflection

Deadair space

Evergreen shrubs

Evergreentrees

Additional Tips(cont’d)

S Instead of chemicals, use compost,manure and other “natural”fertilizers. These release nutrientsslowly, reducing run-off problems.

Some chemical lawn fertilizerscontain herbicides.

Reduce water consumption foryour lawn and garden asfollows:

S Water only when there is notenough rain. Water on windlessdays and in the evening or at night:this is easier on the plants thanwatering in the heat of the day, andit reduces water lost to evaporation.Instead of sprinkling water high inthe air, use drip irrigation (through aperforated hose on the ground) or asprinkler that delivers large dropletsin a fairly flat pattern.

S Pile grass clippings or wood chipsaround plants to keep the soil wet.

S Choose plants that are suited to thenatural level of rainfall in yourregion.

S Collect water for your garden in rainbarrels.

On the south side of the house,plant deciduous trees — thosethat lose their leaves in the fall.These trees will give shade inthe summer; and in winter,when the leaves have fallen,they will let in the sun to warmthe house. Shade makes ahouse more comfortable insummer and can reduce thecost of air conditioning by asmuch as 30 per cent a year!Evergreen shrubs along thenorth side of your house helpto reduce heating costs bybreaking the winter wind.

Part Two — Site



If there are pet droppings on thelawn, pick them up, place them in aplastic bag and put them in thegarbage. If left on your grass, theywill cause an unpleasant smell andwill eventually disintegrate and jointhe run-off into storm sewers, whichwere not designed to handle faeces,or directly into natural streams.

Any special features

Tree or shrub species


Driveways, Walkways and Paved Patios


12 DRIVEWAYS, WALKWAYS AND PAVED PATIOS

12a Description

Driveways, walkways and patios may be made of:

S asphalt Driveways, Walkways and Paved Patios

S preformed concrete slabs

S concrete paving stones (brick paving)

S gravel

Some brick paving patterns and other hard-surface treatments

Running bondcobblestone

Fish-scalecobblestone

Stacked bondbrick pavers

Running bondbrick pavers

Herringbone brickpavers

Basketweavebrick pavers

Flagstone River stone River rock


Minor indentations or uneven areas are to be expected on an asphaltdrive, as is a little bit of settling under car tires, and dents from sharpobjects (especially in hot weather). To minimize damage, remember thatyour driveway was designed for cars and light trucks. Do not park heavyvehicles on it.

Cracking and heaving: Winterfreezing can cause patios,walkways and driveways to crackand lift. This is probably beyondbuilder’s control and, with the returnof warm weather, frost-heavedpaving stones and other materialsoften settle back into place. Theproblem may be caused by toomuch water soaking into thedriveway or walkway, and thenfreezing. Check that water is notrunning into the area throughimproper drainage or roof run-off.

Settling of concrete pavingstones: Concrete paving stones liein a bed of sand or crushed stone.Lift out any pavers that have settledand raise the level underneath themwith coarse sand, available at abuilding supply centre.

Troubleshooting

Part Two — Site


Wash away spilled gasoline and solvents immediately, as they willquickly dissolve asphalt. From time to time during the winter, removethe slush that falls off cars, as the salt in it can harm the drivewaysurface. Avoid chemical de-icers for the same reason.

Prolong the life of an asphalt driveway by filling cracks; and every twoto five years, apply a driveway surface finish. Fillers and roller-appliedfinishes are available at hardware stores; however, the job can also becontracted out.

Acrylic sealers are less toxic and last longer than cheapersolvent-based sealers.When shovelling snow from driveways and walkways, do notpile it up against the house’s air intakes and exhaust outlets(General Information, page 101).

Identify driveway, walkway or patio material


Driveways, Walkways and Paved Patios


Part Two — Foundation and Basement



13a Overview

Your house rests on a foundation. The elements that make up thatfoundation vary, depending on local building conditions and the type andsize of house. General InformationPart Two — Foundation and Basement2.Your house, like most in Canada, may be supported by a perimeterfoundation, with the Foundation Wall (page 50) enclosing a basement orcrawl space. Almost always, these walls stand on a “footing,” which is awide, continuous base that runs under the perimeter of the house.Concrete or block piers may support decks, porches and any insulatedspaces that do not have a basement or crawl space below.The basement may be a full-height space created by excavation of thefoundation. The builder may have “finished” your basement as part ofyour agreement of purchase and sale. Finishing means that, in order tomake the excavated space habitable, the builder applies Interior Finishes(page 87) to the floor and walls, and perhaps adds other features, such aspartition walls. If your builder did not finish the basement, it can easilybe done at a later time.A crawl space is a partial-height space, usually containing ducts andpipes and, in some cases, a furnace. A crawl space tends to be found inhouses where a basement is not needed, or where the foundationexcavation was not deep enough to allow for a full basement. Access tothe crawl space may be directly from the house, or from the outside,through the foundation wall.Inside the basement or crawl space are steel, lumber or concrete posts(columns) that support the main beams of the house. These posts, whichsit on their own footings, are important structural elements: be carefulnot to alter them during renovations.If you live in a region that tends to have clay soils, you may have tooccasionally adjust the Teleposts (page 55) that support the main beamsto keep the beam level.If you have poor soil conditions or a high water table in your region,a Sump System (page 53) will be installed in your basement or crawlspace.Your house may have “slab-on-grade” construction. Instead of having abasement, a slab-on-grade house stands on a concrete slab, which restson a layer of undisturbed or compacted earth topped with crushed stoneat ground level (grade). A Floor Finish (page 87) is installed on top of,and hides, the slab. There are no maintenance issues for homeowners.However, noticeable changes to the floor (e.g., buckling or sinking)could indicate settlement problems. Contact your builder.

Foundation Wall


14 FOUNDATION WALL

14a Description

The foundation wall is the perimeter wall that encloses your basement. Itsupports the weight of the house and holds back the earth outside it. Thefoundation wall of your house consists of poured concrete, concreteblock or pressure-treated wood (PTW).

Cut-away of concrete and PTW foundation walls

Siding

FootingDrain tile

CementpargingDampproofing

Protectiveboard

Preserved plywood

FootingDrain tile

SidingDampproofing

Preserved woodfoundation wall withinsulationbetween studs

If your foundation wall consists of poured concrete or concrete block,it rests on a concrete footing. The footing, which spreads the full weightof the house out over the ground, rests on firm soil or gravel below thefrost line, or on bed-rock.

Your foundation rests on a gravel bed, rather than on footings if youhave a pressure--treated wood (PTW) foundation wall.

Your foundation wall is insulated to reduce heat loss, to make thebasement more comfortable and to reduce the risk of condensation oninside walls. The insulation may be attached to the outside or the insideof the wall. Foundation Wall

In order to prevent water from seeping into the basement and damagingthe foundations, the builder commonly protects the perimeter of thehouse as follows:

S Weeping tile is laid out along the footing all around the house, andusually connects to the storm water system. Weeping tile (also

Cracks in the foundation wall:Normal shrinkage in the concrete,and the stress of temperaturedifferences between the inside andoutside and between buried andexposed parts of the foundation,cause a certain amount of minorcracking, especially in the first yearor two. If these cracks are small anddry, don’t worry. However, if you seeany bulges in the foundation, or ifthe cracks are larger than 3 mm (1/8in.) or appear to be getting wider,you should have them investigated.There are various possible causes.Contact your builder or a structuralengineer for assessment and repair.

Cobweb cracks or peeling in theparging coat: Water, if it penetratesthe foundation’s parging coat, canfreeze and damage the concretefinish. Repair the parging coat byremoving damaged and looseparging and patching the surface.Proper Grading and Drainage(page 41) will help prevent this kindof damage.

Foundation wall exposed belowthe parging: The soil has settledtoo much around the foundation.Add enough earth to cover up to thefinish.

Seepage and leaks through thefoundation wall: There are manypossible causes:

S Poor grading may be causingwater to pool against the house(Grading and Drainage, page 41).

S Run-off water from the roof maybe discharging at the foundation(Eavestroughs , page 69).

S The foundation drainage systemmay be blocked, in which caseyou will need to dig it out. Call aprofessional to inspect andadvise.

S If the water table is high, you mayneed a Sump System, page 53.

Troubleshooting



Drainage system to protect foundation

Downspout

Splash block

Well-drainedbackfill

Less porous cap

10% slopefor 2 m (6.5 ft)

known as drain tile) is simply plastic tubing pierced with holes.Water seeps into the tube through the holes and is carried away tothe storm sewers, or at least away from the house.

S A porous “backfill” material, such as gravel, is used to fill theexcavation hole around the foundation. Because this material isporous, water drains easily through it to the weeping tile.

S On top of the backfill, slower draining earth slopes away from thehouse (Grading and Drainage, page 41). This surface sheds mostrainwater away from the house, rather than allowing it to beabsorbed into the ground beside the foundation.

S Below grade (ground level), damp-proofing or a plastic drainagelayer is placed over the foundation wall to keep water from soakinginto the concrete. The part of the foundation that is visible aboveground level is usually parged (i.e., coated with water-resistantcement finish). This finish, which has a stucco-like appearance,protects the foundation wall. To allow for some settlement of eartharound the foundations, the finish usually continues a few inchesbelow ground level.


To prevent damage to the foundation wall and leakage into the basement,you must maintain proper drainage and grading (i.e., keep the earthsloping away from the house). Also, when landscaping, keep the soil atleast 200 mm (8 in.) from the top of the foundation wall: this reduces therisk of water damage to the siding, insulation and framing of the wall.

As water moves through concrete, salts are leeched out and appear on thesurface as a white “dust.” This is normal during the first year or so of thehouse’s life, when the concrete is drying out. Use water and a stiff brushto remove the white deposit. However, if new deposits go on formingafter the first year, or if they tend to concentrate in one area, moisturemay be affecting the foundation wall. Contact your builder or seek otherexpert advice.

Summertime condensation onbasement walls or other coldsurfaces: Because the eartharound the foundation warms upmore slowly than the air,condensation is likely to occur onrelatively cool surfaces duringwarm humid weather.Condensation can cause a lot ofdamage and contribute to thegrowth of mold. Try to reducehumidity in the house (TheEnvironment in Your House,page 17).

TroubleshootingCont’d.

Basement or Crawl Space Floor


15 BASEMENT OR CRAWL SPACE FLOOR

15a Description

Floor Type

S Your basement floor may consist of a concrete slab that was pouredon a prepared base, usually of crushed stone or gravel, with a vapourretarder (a heavy plastic sheet) directly under the slab. Often,plumbing drainage lines (General Information, page 143) are buriedin the slab. If there is a Floor Finish (page 87), such as hardwood orresilient flooring, it may be fixed to a wooden subfloor on top of theslab.Basement or Crawl Space Floor

S Your basement floor may consist of a pressure-treated wooden frame(floor joists), with wood panel sheathing on top. The joists rest onblocks over a drainage layer of crushed stone. A Floor Finish(page 87) may be fixed to this subfloor.

S A moisture barrier (a heavy plastic sheet) covers the ground if youhave a crawl space, keeping moisture from entering the house anddamaging the wooden structure. A protective covering of sand,gravel, concrete or other material lies on top of this sheet.

Drainage

S Water drained by the weeping tile (Foundation Wall, page 50) flowsto the municipal storm sewer.

S Your basement floor may have a Sump System, page 53. This lowersthe level of the water table and keeps water out of the basement.


Do not expect a perfectly smooth concrete floor slab. Some roughness inthe texture and some hairline cracks are normal.During the first year, the concrete is “curing” (i.e., drying out). Wait acouple of years, if you can, to paint the basement floor. If you must paintduring the first year, use a primer with a concrete conditioningcompound that lets the curing continue.When storing goods in the basement — especially absorbent materials,such as paper, wood, clothes and upholstered furniture— raise them offthe floor and keep them away from the walls. By doing so you arepromoting a good flow of air and preventing the growth of mold. Also,in case of flood, you may have reduced damage. When you enter thecrawl space under your house, be careful not to damage the plasticmoisture barrier.

Cracks in the concrete: Small,dry cracks are common inconcrete floor slabs, especially inthe first year or two. Don’t worry.Normal shrinkage in the concreteaccounts for these minor flaws.However, cracks that are 3 mm(1/8 in.) or more, or that are visiblygetting larger, may result fromsettlement. Call on your builder ora structural engineer forassessment and repair.

Sagging or softness inpressure-treated wooden floors:Moisture may be damaging thesubfloor, and you should look forthe source (Foundation Wall,page 50). Contact your builder orseek professional advice.

Troubleshooting



16 SUMP SYSTEM

16a Description

Your house has a sump system, which removes storm and ground waterfrom the earth around the foundation, thus preventing floods in thebasement or crawl space. The sump system consists of: a pit; a drainagesystem that directs water into the pit; a pump, if required (some pitsdrain by gravity); and a discharge pipe. The sump pit, where water fromthe surrounding soil and rock collects, is usually lined with concrete orplastic and is sunk below the level of the basement floor. The pit’stight-fitting cover prevents accidents and keeps out soil gases. Sump System

Sump system

Electric supply to pump

Sump pit cover

Sump pit

Sump pumpWater in

Discharge out

The sump pump has a float (sometimes two), which rises with the waterlevel in the pit; when the float reaches a set height, it triggers anelectrically powered pump. The water then pumps out of the pit throughthe discharge pipe. Check what kind of sump pump you have:

S a submersible type, located inside the sump pit;

S a pedestal type, with the pump motor above the pit, and the pumpsuction head at its bottom.

Sump water is released through the discharge pipe to the storm watersewer, directly to the outside, or to a dry well.

16b Operation and Maintenance

Check the sump pump every few months to make sure it is in workingorder. In particular, check it after a heavy rain and before going away foran extended period. To test the sump pump, remove the pit cover andadd a few gallons of water. The pump should start. Also, check that thepipes leading from the pump to the discharge are not bent, crimped or

Additional Tips

If your sump runs a lot at sometimes of year, or if you simplycannot afford to have it breakdown, keep a spare pump on hand.They are not expensive. Install thesecond pump with its float sethigher than that of the first pump:the back-up will take overautomatically if the first pump fails.

The pump is powered by electricity,and power failure will put it out ofcommission. Consider purchasinga battery-powered back-up pump.

Flooding: Assuming that the pump isworking, ice may have blocked thedischarge pipe. Turn off the pumpand disconnect the discharge pipe atthe pump. Set up a temporarysystem of pipes to move water fromthe pump to the basement floor drainor directly to the outside. Then restartthe pump. Have the pipe serviced toprevent it from freezing again.

Debris in the pit: The lining of thesump pit may be cracked ordeteriorating. Address this problemimmediately, before debris clogs thepump.

Troubleshooting

Sump System


cracked.When finished your inspection, put the cover back on and resealit tightly.

Inspect, clean and oil the pump once a year, following the directions inthe manufacturer’s manual. The float that controls the on-off switchingof the pump may occasionally need to be adjusted or replaced: with thehelp of the manual, this is easy to do. Make sure the float is untangledand free of debris.

Your sump pump may drain to an unburied outside hose that attaches tothe discharge pipe at the foundation wall. This hose, if it freezes, maycrack and damage the pump, and it should be disconnected before winter.Put a splash pad (a concrete paver will do) under the outlet to protect thesoil and foundations (Foundation Wall, page 50) from water that maydrain from the pipe before the hose is reconnected in spring.

Never leave the sump pit uncovered and make sure that childrencannot open the cover.

Type/location of sump pump




17 TELEPOSTS

17a Description

Teleposts are adjustable steel columns that stand in the basement orcrawl space of your house and support the main beam. Teleposts have athreaded screw that permits changing the height of the top plate (wherethe main beam sits). Because teleposts are adjustable, they can be set tokeep the main beam level, even when the soil or structure is shiftingslightly. This is particularly important for your house, which is in aregion of clay soils. These soils tend to swell and shrink as the moisturecontent changes. When soils swell, the floor may lift and the telepostspush up the main beam: such movement puts stress on the wholestructure. Teleposts

Adjustable telepost

89 mm min. (3-1/2 in.)

Adjustmentscrew

Securedbearing-plate

Column


Check every two to four months to see whether the beam has lifted orsettled at the teleposts. A thick string or cord stretched tight beside thebeam will show any bowing or sagging. If you have to adjust theteleposts, do it slowly to give the structure time to adapt: turn the screwsno more than 1/4 turn a day. Do not over-raise the post. To get morepower when tightening, slide a strong metal or plastic tube, 45 to 60 mm(18 to 24 in.) long, over the handle of the pipe wrench.

A gap at the joint of wall andceiling on the top floor: Suchgaps generally result from trussuplift, not foundation settlement(Drywall, page 96). Do not try toclose such gaps by tightening theteleposts.

Troubleshooting

Additional Tips

If renovating the basement, do notreplace teleposts withnon-adjustable posts or cover upthe adjustment mechanism. Whenbuilding partition walls in thebasement, remember that the claysoils in your region will causeperiodic lifting and falling of theslab. Get expert advice on how toaccommodate that up and downmovement by framing walls short ofthe floor, and attaching andsupporting them from the top.

Teleposts


Adjusting the telepost to compensate for swelling clay

Beam

String

Teleposts

Improperlyframed wall

Adjust telepost tomaintain level

Note to the builder: This applies only to regions where clay soils mayrequire owners to adjust teleposts.


Part Two — Roof, Outside Walls, and Other Exterior Features



18a Overview

The roof and outside walls give your house structure and protect yourhome from rain, snow, wind and sun. They also secure the house againstintruders. General Information3.

A variety of cladding materials can be used to form the Exterior Finishon the outside walls. The most common materials are siding (wood,metal, vinyl or fibreboard), masonry (brick or stone) and stucco. Wood isoften used for trim and other exterior detailing, such as railings andcolumns. Caulking at joints and along openings on the roof and in theoutside walls makes the structure weather tight. Eavestroughs at the edgeof your roof guide the water from the roof away from the foundations.Other exterior elements are Stairs, Porches and Decks and Garages andCarports.

Though the homeowner has to maintain only the exterior finishes andinterior finishes of the outside walls, some understanding of what liesbetween these finishes is useful. See The Whole House, An Overview(page 13) for a description of a typical wall system. Doors, windows andother openings (e.g., holes made for ventilation hoods and utility pipes)are also part of the outside walls (Doors and Windows, page 79). Part Two —

Roof, Outside Walls, and Other Exterior Features

18b Maintenance

The exterior of your house was designed and built to be attractive anddurable with as little maintenance as possible. However, you cannotafford to neglect this part of the house if you want to avoid problems andsave money. Get into the habit of following a basic maintenance regime,and once or twice a year check over the exterior of the house, keeping aspecially close watch on potential trouble spots.

Keep the caulking in good repair and act quickly if there are signs thatmoisture is getting in through the roof or walls. In addition to actualleaks, signs of water penetration include a marked deterioration, stainingor warping of materials.

Never cover the exterior wall finish with soil and avoid building newstructures (e.g., a deck or porch) directly up against the finish, especiallyif there is any risk of water penetration or snow build-up.

Roof and walls shed water

Roof


19 ROOF

19a Description

There are two basic types of roofs: ventilated roofs and insulated roofs.

Ventilated roof: This kind of roof has an open space between theinsulation (on top of the upper floor’s ceiling) and the roof peak. Ventsplaced low on the rooftop or in the soffits allow air to flow into the openroof space, then to pass out through vents at the roof-top ridge or in thegables (the triangular-shaped section of wall at either end of the roof).This ventilation helps to keep the attic relatively cool in summer; inwinter, it reduces moisture build-up in the attic and prevents icedamming on top of the roof. This roof ventilation is completely separatefrom the ventilation of the house itself. Roof

Roof ventilation

Min. 25 mm (1 in.) air space

Insulationbaffle

Extra insulationreduces heat loss

Different types of attic vents

Soffit vents

Gabble end vent

Ridge vent

Roof vent

Troubleshooting

Leaking roof: Many things cancause a roof to leak. Consult yourbuilder or a roofing expert forassistance in identifying andrepairing roof leaks. Commoncauses of trouble are:

S Ice damming: This occurs whensnow melts on the roof. If the waterrun-off freezes at the edge of theroof, ice may gradually build upthere to form a “dam.” If enoughwater pools behind that dam, itmay eventually seep under theroofing material. If the roof leaks,you must remove the ice, butcarefully, so as not to damage theroofing. In a new house, icedamming is likely to occur onlywhen rain falls on a heavyaccumulation of snow, but can alsooccur under other sets ofconditions. If ice damming occursunder other conditions, it mayindicate roof ventilation orinsulation problems, or major airleakage between the house andthe attic. If air flows freely betweenthe insulation and the underside ofthe roof sheathing, ice dammingmay be alleviated but notprevented. For help in locating airleaks and fixing them, see theadvice given under Leakagecaused by condensation. If theproblem persists, contact yourbuilder or a roofing contractor.

S Damage to roofing: A severestorm can damage a roof. See thesection on Care and Maintenance.

S Damage to flashing: Flashingaround the chimney is particularlyvulnerable. Patch tears or gapstemporarily with plastic roof cementor, even better, with polyurethanecaulking, which lasts longer. Evenwith repairs, however, the flashingwill deteriorate over time and willeventually need replacing: that is ajob best left to a professionalroofer.



Water leakage caused by ice dams

Trapped water

Ice dam

Ice

Snow

Thin ice slabunder snow

Melt snow runningdown undersideof sheathing

DETAIL

Snow

Icicles

Insulated roof, either flat or cathedral: An insulated roof is often usedwhere the wooden roof beams (joists) are exposed on the inside.Insulated roofs are often found, for example, over balconies and decks.

The most commonly used roof coverings (roofing materials) are: asphaltshingles, wood shingles, rigid roof tiles, metal or gravel.

On flat or low-pitched areas of the roof, the roof covering may beasphalt sheet or rubberized sheet.

Roof coverings normally last many years without needing to be repairedor replaced. Slight colour variations occur during the manufacture ofroofing materials, and this may not be within the builder’s control;however, such variations are hardly noticeable — and they become lessso with time — and do not affect roof performance.

Additional waterproof materials are built into the roof at especiallyvulnerable points:

Flashing: usually made of sheet metal, with a factory— applied colour— lines the junctions (valleys) where two roof sections meet or where adormer window interrupts the lines of the roof. Flashing is also used tocover seams where certain elements penetrate the roof, such as atticvents, chimneys, plumbing vent pipes (General Information, page 143),bathroom exhaust ducts (Exhaust Fans, page 136) and skylights.

S The eaves are part of the roof that project beyond the walls of thehouse, and they are especially vulnerable to snow and ice build-ups.


Leakage caused by condensation:If the roof is sound but water isseeping through the ceiling, theproblem may be condensation in theattic. Frost on the underside of theroof is a sign that condensation isoccurring. Condensation occurswhen warm, moist air from inside thehouse moves through the ceiling intothe cool attic space. Condensationmay cause a build-up of ice duringlong periods of sub-zero weather;then during thaws, the ice in the atticmelts and leaks into the house.

As a general response, andespecially if there are other signs ofexcess humidity in the house, try toreduce humidity (The Environment inYour House, page 17). Morespecifically, if indoor air is leakinginto the attic, you must find the leaksand seal them.

Before consulting your builder or aroofing expert, check the followingpossibilities:

S An attic access hatch, if dislodged,will allow warm air into the attic.Check periodically that the foamweatherstripping around the atticaccess hatch is still resilient. Do notpaint over the foam and, wheneveryou use the hatch, make sure that itcloses tightly behind you and that itsits over the foam with no gaps(General Information, page 79).

S Check the ducts from bathroomExhaust Fans (page 136). If thesepass through the attic, they shouldbe insulated and firmly fitted at thepoint of exit. Make sure that theexhaust louvres (flaps) open whenthe fan is on, and close when it isoff. Remove ice or anything elsethat is blocking the ducts. Also,make sure that there is no othersource (e.g., plumbing vents,chimneys) of warm, moist airleaking into the attic.

In the first winter afterconstruction, the large amountof moisture in new materialsmakes for a relatively high riskof condensation in the attic.

Roof


Roof flashing locations

Valley

Valley

Chimney

Ridge

Hip

Eave protectionWall--roof

intersection

Eaves protection — which takes the form of asphalt-impregnatedpaper, rubber sheeting or some other water-resistant material — isusually applied under the roofing material at these overhangingedges, and it helps to prevent ice dams from forming.

S The metal or concrete cap at the top of the chimney sheds snow andrain.

The underside of the eaves is called the soffit; the front edge is called thefascia. Your soffits and fascia can be made of wood or metal (aluminiumor steel).


Be careful. Working on a roof is dangerous. Make sure your ladder is ingood repair and position it solidly so that it extends 1 m (3 ft.) above theroof edge. Wear footwear that grips well. Do not go on the roof when itis wet, snowy, or icy, or when strong winds are blowing.

After a heavy windstorm, check for loose, broken or missing roofshingles. Wind-related damage is not the builder’s responsibility, butyour homeowner insurance policy may cover it. Before going up on theroof, scan it with binoculars to see if further investigation is necessary. Ifrepairs are needed, do them right away to prevent damage to the house.Unless you have experience in repairing roofing, call a roofer.

After a period of snow and severe winds, check the attic to see if anysnow has blown in through the vents. If so, remove it.

When working in the attic, avoid damaging the ceiling belowyou. Keep your feet on the framing (the joists or trusses) or layboards on the insulation to distribute your weight.

After an unusually heavy build-up of snow, you can lessen the risk ofstructural or water damage by shovelling snow off the roof. Do notshovel right down to the roofing material: leave a few inches of snow.

Additional Tips

Do not walk on asphalt roofs on hotdays. Heat softens the shingles, andyou may easily damage theprotective surface.

When installing antennae or otherequipment on the roof, make surethat neither the installation process,nor the method used to attach theequipment, damages the roof.



Over time, roofing material will wear out. Because of the ultravioletradiation from the sun, a south-facing roof usually weathers morequickly. Keep an eye out for signs of deterioration. For asphalt shingles,such signs include: mineral granules eroding from shingles andcollecting in the gutters; curling at the edges of the shingles; and crackedor punctured shingles. Depending on the particular shingles, they have alife of between 15 and 30 years.

Every five years, check the chimney cap and the caulking between thecap and the chimney for signs of significant deterioration or damage.Replace the cap and the caulking, if needed.

Information on warranties for roofing materials


Wood Siding and Wood Trim


20 EXTERIOR FINISH: WOOD SIDING AND WOOD TRIM

20a Description

Siding on the exterior of a house can be made of wood or cedar shinglesor shakes.Wood Siding and Wood Trim

The wood trim on the exterior of a house can include railings, columnsor exterior doors.


To clean wood siding, lightly scrub any obviously dirty areas first, usinga long-handled brush and a mild, non-abrasive detergent. Then hose thesiding gently. Do not use a high-pressure stream, as this may force waterthrough the siding.

If you have the matching paint on hand, you can easily do minortouch-ups to wood siding or trim, or the builder may do this for you atthe end of the first warranty period. Be warned, however: colours fadewith time, and a perfect match between old and new paint or siding israrely possible, even if the colours come from the same batch. If you buynew paint or siding, it is bound to be slightly different in colour than theoriginal lot. Builders will generally not repaint the whole house or largeareas in order to match colours perfectly.

Standard painted wood siding will last about five years before needing anew coat, depending on the colour and quality of the paint, as well asdegree of exposure to rain and sun. A wood siding that isfactory--painted should keep its finish for at least ten years. Plan torepaint the siding whenever the paint begins to discolour and flake off.You may have to restain or reseal unpainted siding relatively morefrequently.

Choose a dry day for painting, when temperatures of over 10_C(50_F) are expected for at least 10 hours. Do not paint in thedirect sun. Clean surfaces before painting them to get rid of dirtand flakes of old paint. If painting raw sanded wood, begin witha primer coat. Consult a paint supplier on the correct materials.

Cedar has a natural preservative in it but, nevertheless, staining willprolong its life. If left unfinished, cedar siding, shingles and shakes willweather to a grey colour.

When landscaping, keep the soil at least 200 mm (8 in.) below the loweredge of the siding to prevent water from damaging the siding, insulationand framing of the wall above the foundation.

Troubleshooting

Damaged or deformed siding:Remove and replace a damagedpiece of siding or trim. Consult ahome repair manual for guidance, orcall your builder or a contractor forassistance.

Cracks, discolouration or othersigns of premature deteriorationin siding: Leaks in the siding cancause premature deterioration.Check the Caulking (page 71) and,if necessary, replace it. Also, checkthe siding for cracks — caulkingthem as you go — and look for othersigns of deterioration. Watersplashing up on the siding can alsocause deterioration. Make sure thatno water is pooling against thefoundation (Grading and Drainage,page 41; Eavestroughs , page 69).Often, you can reduce splashing bychoosing an appropriate groundsurface material (e.g., grass orrounded stones) or by installingeavestroughs or deflectors thatdirect roof water away from the sideof the house.

If the cause of the problem is stillunclear, or if the repairs within yourscope have not corrected thesituation, then contact your builderor a building contractor. Never letwater-related problems go, asmoisture can cause a lot of damage.

Visible cracks in caulking: As theCaulking (page 71) ages, you mustreplace it.

“Knots” in the wood showingthrough the finish: Resin seepingout of knotholes will discolour paint.Apply a purpose-made sealer,available at hardware stores, toprevent future resin staining atknotholes, then repaint.



Additional information on siding: brand, colour, warranty, etc.


Keep the ground surface belowthe siding

Foundationwall

Siding

Finished grade

200 mm(8 in.)mininumfor woodsiding

Slope gradeawayfrom house


Mildew on cedar siding, shinglesand shakes: Think aboutlandscaping or other changes thatwould remove conditions (e.g.,shade, dampness) that support thegrowth of mold. To remove mold,apply a solution of one part chlorinebleach to three parts water, with asoft brush. Wear rubber gloves, adust mask and safety goggles, andcover nearby plants with plastic. Donot rinse away the solution. Repeatthe treatment annually as apreventative, if mildew problems areanticipated.

Fibreboard, Vinyl or Metal Siding


21 EXTERIOR FINISH: FIBREBOARD, VINYL OR METAL SIDING

21a Description

The siding on your outside walls is either fibreboard, vinyl, or metal(aluminium or steel).


To clean siding, lightly scrub any obviously dirty areas first, using along-handled brush and a mild, non-abrasive detergent. Then hose thesiding gently. Do not use a high-pressure stream, as this may force waterthrough the siding. Fibreboard, Vinyl or Metal Siding

Your fibreboard, vinyl, or metal siding should not need re-finishing,though you can repaint fibreboard and metal if you want. You cannotpaint vinyl siding.

If you have the matching paint on hand, you can easily do minortouch-ups to fibreboard or metal siding, or the builder may do this foryou at the end of the first warranty period. Be warned, however: coloursfade with time, and a perfect match between old and new paint or sidingis rarely possible, even if the colours come from the same batch. If youbuy new paint or siding, it is bound to be slightly different in colour thanthe original lot. Builders will generally not repaint the whole house orlarge areas in order to match colours perfectly.

Choose a dry day for painting, when temperatures of over 10_C(50_F) are expected for at least 10 hours. Do not paint in thedirect sun. Clean surfaces before painting them to get rid of dirtand flakes of old paint. If painting a surface that has not beenpainted before (e.g., metal siding), begin with a primer coat.Consult a paint supplier on the correct materials.

When landscaping, keep the soil at least 200 mm (8 in.) below the loweredge of the siding to prevent water from damaging the siding, insulationand framing of the wall above the foundation.

Troubleshooting

Visible cracks in caulking: As theCaulking (page 71) ages, you mustreplace it.

Gaps in the siding, or buckling ofmetal or vinyl siding: Correctlyinstalled, siding should be able toaccommodate the expansion andcontraction associated withchanging temperatures (even inextreme conditions) withoutdeforming, gaping or buckling. Ifdeformities occur, it may besettlement of the structure that iscausing the trouble. Caulking(page 71) may seal the gapswithout having to replace the siding.Consult your builder or a contractor.

Cracks, discolouration, swellingor other signs of prematuredeterioration in fiberboard siding:Leaks in the siding or watersplashing against it can causepremature deterioration. Check theCaulking (page 71) and, ifnecessary, replace it. Also, checkthe siding for cracks caulking themas you go and look for other signsof deterioration. Make sure that nowater is pooling against thefoundation (Grading and Drainage,page 41; Eavestroughs, page 69).Often, you can reduce splashing bychoosing an appropriate groundsurface material (e.g., grass orrounded stones), or by installingeavestroughs or deflectors thatdirect roof water away from the sideof the house.

If the cause of the problem is stillunclear, or if the repairs within yourscope have not corrected thesituation, then contact your builderor a building contractor. Never letwater-related problems go, asmoisture can cause a lot ofdamage.



Additional information on siding: brand, colour, warranty, etc.


Keep the ground surface belowthe siding

Foundationwall

Siding

Finished grade

200 mm(8 in.)mininumfor woodsiding

Slope gradeawayfrom house


Damaged siding: Remove andreplace a damaged piece of siding.Consult a home repair manual forguidance, or call your builder or acontractor for assistance.

Masonry


22 EXTERIOR FINISH: MASONRY

22a Description

A masonry finish (or veneer) is made up of masonry units — such asbricks and stones (natural or synthetic) — with cement mortar holdingthem together. Metal connectors embedded in the mortar and fastened tothe sheathing or wall studs “tie” the finish to the structure of the house(The Whole House, An Overview, page 13). Brick and stone finishesshould last the lifetime of the house. Masonry

Clay brick is made of clay fired at a high temperature. The surfacetexture and colour are created or applied during manufacture. Thissurface protects the brick and should not be damaged.

Composite or cultured stone and concrete brick are cement products. Thedecorative surface serves no protective function.

Masonry wall showing air spaces and weepholes

Weepholes spacednot more than 800mm(32 in.) apart

Flashingmaterial

25 mm (1 in.)air space

Deteriorating mortar: Don’t worryabout hairline cracks, but largercracks or loose mortar may meanthat it is time to repoint. This processinvolves cleaning out loose mortar toa depth of at least 12 mm (1/2 in.),and filling the space with newcement mortar. If the problem occurswithin the warranty period, contactyour builder. After that, consult ahome repair manual for do-it-yourselfinformation, or call on a professionalcontractor.

White “dust” on masonry:Efflorescence — the formation ofwhite deposits on masonry — occurswhen soluble salts dissolve in thewet mortar, then migrate to thesurface as the mortar dries. This iscommon on new masonry surfaces.The deposit is not harmful andusually disappears in a while throughnormal weathering; or you canremove it, if you like, with water orlight scrubbing. If efflorescencepersists in a particular spot, however,it could indicate a problem: forexample, water leaking throughcracked mortar joints; moisturemigrating from the inside of thehouse; or a damaged gutter or poorlypositioned downspout(Eavestroughs , page 69). Investigatethe source of the problem andcorrect it.

Flaking and crumbling bricks: Ifwidespread crumbling is occurring,the bricks may belong to an inferiorbatch. Consult your builder. If theproblem is localized, however, watermay be entering the bricks, thenfreezing and expanding. Replace thedamaged bricks, but before doing so,seek out the source of the water andstop it. Possible sources of waterare: roof run-off; a leakingEavestrough (page 69); or water thatis splashing up against the house.Make sure that

Troubleshooting




Generally, masonry needs little maintenance, although heavy orcontinuous exposure to water and ice will damage it (Roofing, page 58and Eavestroughs, page 69). Mortar usually lasts around 25 years— lessin some exposed areas— before the outer layer has to be chiselled outand replaced; a process called “re-pointing.”

If you have to clean the brick, avoid damaging the surface. You cancontract a professional brick cleaner, or try any one of the followingtechniques (starting with the first and least damaging):

S Flush the surface with a spray of water from the garden hose.

S Gently scrub the surface with water and a soft brush.

S Use a brick-cleaning solution, available at hardware stores. Followthe manufacturer’s instructions.

Commercial brick-cleaning solutions can be toxic, corrosive andflammable. Wear rubber gloves and safety goggles and takeother appropriate precautions.

Do not paint brick. Moisture trapped by the paint can damagethe brick; and the wall will look shabby as the paint deteriorates.Removing the paint may damage the brick.

Water that gets into the air space behind the masonry is allowed to drainthrough small holes (weepholes) set in the base of the wall and abovewindows and doors. Never fill up or cover these holes. Similarly, do notblock the vent holes at the top of the masonry wall.

When landscaping, keep the soil at least 200 mm (8 in.) below the loweredge of the masonry to prevent water from damaging the finish,insulation and framing of the wall above the foundation.

Builder’s orHomeowner’s Notes


water is not pooling against thefoundation (Grading and Drainage,page 41). Often, you can reducesplashing by choosing an appropriateground surface material (e.g., grass orrounded stones) or by installingeavestroughs or deflectors that directroof water away from the side of thehouse.

Stucco


23 EXTERIOR FINISH: STUCCO

23a Description

Stucco is a siding material made from Portland cement, sand, lime andwater. Stucco is divided into panels with the joints between themallowing enough play in the surface to prevent the stucco from crackingduring normal settlement or shrinkage in the building frame. The stuccoon your home was applied either:

S in three coats over a mesh of metal (called a lath) nailed to the frameof the house; orStucco

S on a fibreglass reinforcing textile laid over rigid insulation andsecured to the frame of the house.


Stucco is a durable material that should last at least 25 years. Naturalshrinkage often causes hairline cracks to appear in newly completedstucco — particularly in trowel-finished stucco. Leave these initialcracks alone for two years, until shrinkage has finished; then fill andcover the cracks, and apply a brush coat of compatibly pigmentedcement. Repainting can also improve the appearance of stucco.

Maintain the Caulking (page 71) in good condition around all pipes andintake and exhaust hoods.

When landscaping, keep the soil at least 200 mm (8 in.) below the loweredge of the stucco to prevent water from damaging the siding, insulationand framing of the wall above the foundation.


Cracks and loose areas of stucco:Chances are by the time you notice anarea of disintegrating or detachingstucco, a larger area will be alreadyaffected. To sense the extent of theproblem, tap the wall around thedamaged area with a hard object andlisten for a hollow sound. Break awayall loose stucco and—before replacingit—find and address the source of theproblem.

If settlement or structural shifting hascaused the stucco to crack andloosen, consult your builder or acontractor.

Water getting into the wall may be theculprit. Water damages woodstructures and, as it freezes in winter,weakens the bond between stuccoand the wall. Make sure the stucco isnot exposed to roof run-off. Also makesure that water is not pooling againstthe foundation or splashing up ontothe stucco (Eavestroughs , page 69;Grading and Drainage, page 41).Often, you can reduce splashing bychoosing an appropriate groundsurface material (e.g., grass orrounded stones) or by installingeavestroughs or deflectors that directroof water away from the side of thehouse.

Troubleshooting



24 EAVESTROUGHS

24a Description

Eavestroughs consist of gutters (plastic or metal troughs that collectwater run-off at the edge of the roof) and downspouts (vertical drainsthat carry water from the gutters to the ground). Eavestroughs divert rainand snowmelt away from the foundations or from other areas wherewater could cause problems. Eavestroughs

Downspouts sometimes drain onto splash pads — usually concretepaving stones — which direct rainwater away from the foundation.Splash pads also control soil erosion at the mouth of the downspouts:erosion leads to pooling around the Foundation Wall (page 50), andultimately to foundation damage and overloading of the foundationdrainage system. Sometimes, downspouts connect to the storm drainagesystem or extend at the bottom to deliver rainwater to a distance of about1 m (40 in.) from the foundation wall.

Downspout to splash pad

Downspout

Splash block

Less porouscap

Well--drainedbackfill


At least once a year, clear away leaves and other debris from yourgutters. If there are trees near the house, this clear-out is best done in theautumn, after the leaves fall. Wear heavy gloves when clearing yourgutters and use a trowel to lift the matted leaves. Start at the end of thegutter nearest the downspout.

Overflowing eavestroughs:Overflow has several possiblecauses:

S Ice may have blocked the gutter ordownspout. Roof snow that meltswhen exposed to the sun has atendency to freeze at the eaves,forming icicles that can blockgutters or downspouts. Pouring hotwater into the blocked gutter ordownspout usually fixes theproblem.

S If debris has blocked thedownspout, you may be able toclear it with a strong jet of water.Insert a hose in the bottom of thedownspout, stuffing rags all aroundso that the full force of the water isdirected up the pipe. If theobstruction does not clear, you mayhave to work a plumber’s snakethrough the top section or take thedownspout apart at the elbows toclean it by hand.

S If the eavestroughs are notblocked, but they commonlyoverflow in heavy rains, the troughmay not slope enough. Consultyour builder or a contractor.

Dripping along the fascia: If waterdrips between the fascia (the frontedge of the eaves) and theeavestrough, you may need to havedrip edge flashing installed under theshingles along the eaves.

Troubleshooting

Eavestroughs


If you use a ladder when cleaning gutters, make sure it is ingood repair and position it solidly before you begin to climb.

In winter, gutters and downspouts often cease to work as they fill withice. That winter build-up can damage eavestroughs. Check them everyspring for leaks or for sections that are low (where water will pool), oronly loosely attached to the roof. Use a hose to flush out theeavestroughs, starting at the upper end (away from the downspout),clearing away winter debris and at the same time checking for leaks andpooling. Hosing will also show if all the downspouts and theirextensions are working right: this is important because, if the extensionsdetach or leak, water will soak into the ground right at the foundation.Make sure that the splash pads are intact and in the right position.

It is not hard to clean, repair and replace eavestroughs, butworking on a ladder can be dangerous. Think about calling anexperienced contractor.


Additional Tips

To collect rainwater for lawnand garden watering, put arain barrel underneath thedownspout. Make sure thatan overflow pipe directsexcess water from the barrelaway from the house. Do notuse roof run-off from anasphalt roof to watervegetables or other edibleplants.



25 CAULKING

25a Description

There are various kinds of flexible sealing compounds, called“caulking,” with each variety intended for a different purpose andmaterial. Weatherproof exterior caulking seals all openings in theexterior of the house (e.g., wherever pipes, hose connections and ventspenetrate the walls) and makes the outside of your house weather tight.Caulking also seals seams (e.g., at corners where siding comes together,and around doors and windows). Most caulking comes in a tube and isapplied with a caulking gun. Caulking

Concave caulking joint

Use a foam backingrope where joints aremore than 6 mm (1/4 in.) A good caulking job

Another kind of caulking is “acoustic” caulking. It is used to seal gaps inthe air and vapour barriers in outside walls and ceilings (e.g., aroundelectrical outlets, lights, fans and fixtures). (See The Whole House, AnOverview, page 13, for an explanation of these terms.) Acoustic caulkingcannot be seen, as it is hidden inside the walls.

Caulking gun and tube

Troubleshooting

Water leaks in at windows ordoors: The exterior caulking mayhave failed. However, the problemmay also be caused by damage tothe roof or to the flashingimmediately over the window ordoor (Roofing, page 58).

Additional Tips

If you intend to paint the caulking,be sure to buy a paintable type.Before applying new caulking, youmay have to remove damagedcaulking. When caulking is used tofill a large gap (6 mm or 1/4 in. ormore), you may find back-upmaterial wedged into the cavity tohelp make the seal and hold thecaulking in place. Do not remove ordislodge this material.

Before you begin to caulk, read andfollow the specific directions on thetube. Here are some generalinstructions:

S Place the tube in the caulking gunand pull the trigger to bring theplunger forward against the tube.

S Cut the nozzle of the tube at aslight angle (around 20_) and at apoint where the flow of caulkingwill be large enough to cover bothsides of the crack. Use a nail topierce the inner seal inside thetube.

S To force the caulk into the crackand fill it completely, push thecaulking gun along at right anglesto the crack or joint.

Caulking


Other kinds of caulking are used to fill cracks between drywall andwoodwork and to seal joints around taps, bathtubs and plumbing fixtures(General Information, page 87).


Your house has been sealed with good quality caulking, which shouldlast many years. However, some cracks will probably occur as the newhouse goes through the normal “settling in” process (The First Year,page 30). Check the caulking once a year and replace any that isdamaged.

Caulking is readily available at any hardware store, and is easy for ahandy homeowner to apply. Especially for exterior caulking work, buyhigh quality caulking compound. Before beginning work, make sure thatall surfaces to be touched by caulking are clean and dry. Caulk onlywhen the weather is dry and the temperature is above 7_C (45_F).

When sealing seams and openings in siding, be careful not to fill in thedrainage holes along the bottom edge. When caulking masonry walls,treat the weepholes over windows and doors and at the bottom of thewall in the same careful way.

Caulk

Caulk

Siding

Caulk

CaulkBrick

Between window and doorframes and the exterior finish At corners and other joints

in siding

At joints between siding andmasonry At the underside of eaves

where wall and eave meet

Caulking locations

Additional TipsCont’d.

S Squeeze the trigger gently andcontrol the speed at which youmove the nozzle so that the caulkruns slightly ahead of the gun andrises slightly behind it. The caulkshould adhere to both sides of thecrack, with enough overlap to allowfor some shrinkage or movement.

S When finishing a line, push thenozzle into the caulking and twistas you remove it.

S Most types of caulking can begently smoothed out, while stillfresh, with a wetted sponge.

S Allow the caulking to set properlybefore painting or exposing it towater.

Different types of caulkingvary in the amount of gasreleased. Select alow-odour caulkappropriate for theintended application.Ventilate the work areawell. When workingindoors, keep children outof the area for severalhours.



26 STAIRS, PORCHES AND DECKS

26a Description

Most houses have stairs and landings (the platform at the top of thestairs) at the entrances. Some houses also have one or more decks orcovered porches. Stairs, Porches and Decks

S Concrete stairs and a landing may have been built at the entrance (orentrances) to your house. These are either freestanding on theground, without foundations, or they are supported on a foundationwall linked to the house foundation.

S The uninsulated area under the stairs and landing may be set up as acold storage room and fitted with floor and door. Such rooms usuallyvent directly to the outside.

S Your house may have the following wooden structures made ofcedar, pressure-treated lumber (with a typically greenish hue) orpainted wood.

S wood stairs and a landing at the entrance (or entrances) to your house;S a wooden deck;S wooden railings, columns or porch roof.

S The floor surfaces (decking) of your landings, porch and deck maybe made of a durable recycled plastic product that needs norefinishing.

Wood landing on deck on concrete piers

Decking 2 x 4 or 2 x 6

Concrete pier

BeamJoist

Cracks between concrete stairs orlandings and the housefoundation: Cracks in this locationindicate different rates of settlement.Small cracks (less than 3 mm or1/8 in. wide) are common andnothing to worry about, as long aswater is not gathering in them andrunning into the foundation. Sealthese cracks periodically with anexterior grade of caulking, availablefrom any hardware store, makingsure that it is compatible with theparticular kind of concrete. Ifsettlement has finished, you can useconcrete grout and epoxy to fill thecrack more permanently. If cracksare large or growing, contact yourbuilder or a contractor.

Loose or crumbling concrete: Achemical is usually added toconcrete to prevent winter freezeand thaw from “spawling” thesurface. Consult your builder ifspawling occurs, or contract anexpert to refinish the concrete, usinga purpose-formulated concrete mix.

Gaps between wood structuresand the house: Winter frost heavingor the settling of ground around thehouse can cause gaps. Slope theground around and under the stairs,porches and decks so that surfacewater drains away from the house(Grading and Drainage, page 41).Similarly, if regrading, do not allowwater to run toward the housefoundation. Raise a woodenstructure that has settled by insertingshims or blocks and securing themin place where the structure rests onthe foundation posts. If settlement ofa porch has caused a gap to openbetween the porch roof and thehouse, consult an expert who willcheck that the structure is properlyattached, and the roof junctions areintact.

Troubleshooting

Stairs, Porches and Decks



Maintain the grade (Grading and Drainage, page 41) to direct run-offaway from the area under decks and porches. Wet ground expands andcontracts with winter freeze and thaw, and this would cause decks andporches without full foundations to shift.

The concrete used in stairs, landings and porches generally needs littlemaintenance. Concrete may be sealed with a purpose-made sealer,available at any hardware store. However, painting concrete is notrecommended, as most paints wear off quickly. Paint can also seal inmoisture and will bubble after prolonged exposure to weather.

Pressure-treated wood is not meant to be finished and, at the very least,should not be painted in the first couple of years. Cedar does not need tobe painted; if left unfinished for several years, it will weather to a softgrey. Painted, stained or sealed wood that is exposed to high wear (e.g.,decking) will need to be refinished every one to three years to maintainits appearance. To protect wood in less high-wear locations, refinish itevery five to ten years, depending on the level of exposure. Keep woodsurfaces free of snow to prolong their life and finish. Before applyingnew paint or Caulking (page 71), scrape off any loose, bubbled paint andold caulking.

For additional information on maintaining exterior wood, see ExteriorFinish: Wood Siding and Wood Trim, page 62.


Damaged or deteriorated wood:Water, either from splashes or a roofleak, may have caused the damage.Check for water leaks when it israining or the snow is melting, andstop them. Then, let the wood dry outcompletely before repainting orrefinishing it.




27 GARAGE OR CARPORT

27a Description

A garage is a fully enclosed parking and storage space that usuallyattaches to, but is insulated from, the house. A carport is an open, roofedstructure, either freestanding or attached to the house, and built out overa section of driveway. Garage or Carport

Most garages and carports have wood-frame construction, while theExterior Finish is often the same as that used on the house. Where thegarage attaches to the house is a layer of drywall board which providessome protection to the house in the event of a fire in the garage.

A concrete slab on the ground forms the floor of the garage. The type ofconcrete used, and the floor’s surface texture, help it to resist damagefrom water and freezing. The floor may have saw cuts or control joints,

Types of garage doors

OVERHEAD SWING DOOR

OVERHEAD SECTIONAL DOOR

Track anchored tostructural members

Brack anchored tostructural members

Beam designed for span

Door in one section

Garage floor

Sloped apron

Each section hinged

Garage floor

Sloped apron

Cracks in the concrete floor: Thesmall cracks caused by shrinkagemay be impossible to prevent. Patchthe cracks with caulking specified forthis purpose, then apply a sealingcompound to prevent water andchemicals from flowing into them.Check that the floor drains towardthe garage door or to a central drain.Report any significant cracking,particularly if coupled with drainagedisruption, to your builder.

Garage door motor runs but doordoes not move: Check that thedrive chain is engaged with the door.

Garage door does not stop inclosed position, reopens afterclosing: Check that there are noobstructions under the door (e.g.,winter ice accumulation) and that thebottom edge of the door is normal. Ifthe problem persists, follow thesesteps in sequence:

S Pull the hand-release cord todisengage the drive chain from thedoor and close the door manually.

S Activate the door mechanism.Although disengaged, the motorwill run the full length of the chain,as if it were actually closing thedoor.

S Re-engage the chain.

Too long or too short a delaybetween the opening and closingof the garage door: The timer canusually be adjusted. Check themanufacturer ’s instructions, but if themethod is unclear, contact thebuilder or a local door supplier.

Garage fumes in the house: Checkthat the door between the garageand house is closing properly andthat the weatherstripping is in goodcondition. It is important that thewalls and ceilings between thegarage and house are fully airtight: ifyou suspect leakage, contact yourbuilder or a contractor.

Troubleshooting

Garage or Carport


which you can caulk to prevent water entry. These help minimize therisk of cracking as the concrete goes through normal shrinkage.

The garage door is made of wood, plywood, fibreboard or sheet metal. Itruns on a pair of steel guide tracks with rollers.

S Your garage door may have a motorized opener suspended on aframe from the ceiling of the garage. The drive chain is themechanism that links the motor to the door and causes the door toopen and close. It is possible, by pulling the hand-release, todisengage the drive chain. If anything interferes with the door as it isclosing, it will automatically reopen.

You can activate the motor that opens and closes the garage doorboth from a switch on the inside wall of the garage and from abattery-operated remote control device (usually kept in the car sothat the door can be opened from outside the garage). Your remotecontrol device has been coded to open only your door, thuspreventing someone with a similar device from entering. A timerdelay allows enough time for the car to enter or leave before the doorcloses again. A time delay light may also come on for severalminutes when the door opens.

The door between the garage and the house is fire-protected, and it hasan automatic device to ensure that the door closes fully behind you.These features, along with good weatherstripping (General Information,page 79), help to prevent the spread of odours, dangerous gases and firefrom the garage to the house.


Keep the door between the garage and the house closed to stopcar exhaust from filtering into the living quarters and to maintaina fire barrier. Check the weatherstripping annually (GeneralInformation, page 79) and make sure that the door continues toseal well. Also, look to see if the automatic closer is operatingproperly.

You may want to seal the concrete floor for enhanced protection anddurability; however, allow the concrete to cure for at least one month,and preferably longer, before you do so. You can find high-quality,water- and chemical-resistant sealants at any hardware or paint store.Where you have caulked the saw-cuts in the floor slab, repair or replacethe Caulking (page 71) at least every 10 years, or when it is damaged;but make sure you use the right kind of caulking.

Check the manufacturer’s manual for instructions on how to maintain thegarage door. Generally speaking, the motor, chains, rollers and other

Do not run the car inside thegarage. Even with the garagedoor open, there is a risk oftoxic fumes if the wind isblowing the wrong way. Let thecar warm up outside thegarage, therefore, and keepthe garage door open for amoment after bringing thecar in.

To minimize the risk of fire, donot store flammable materialsin the garage.

Keep your garage closed duringbelow-freezing weather. Although thegarage foundations arefrost-protected, an open doorincreases the risk of heavingfoundations during long periods ofextreme cold.

Because a garage tends tobuffer the house, insulating thegarage walls can reduce thecost of heating your house inwinter.

If you need open access to thegarage for a period of time, open thedoor, then use the hand-release todisengage the drive chain from themotorized opener.

While away from the house fora period of time, as a securitymeasure, disengage the cordof the closed garage door.

Additional Tips



moving parts of the garage door and door opener should be lubricated atleast once a year.

For information on repainting your garage or carport, see ExteriorFinish. Repaint any exposed wood. Also, remove rust on exposed steelparts and paint areas that are prone to rust.


Garage or Carport


Part Two — Doors and Windows



28a Overview

Exterior doors and windows serve a range of purposes: they permit safeaccess; they allow in the light and fresh air; and they keep water anddrafts out and the heat in. The frames of exterior doors and windows arebuilt into the wall, where they join to air and vapour barriers (The WholeHouse, An Overview, page 13), and connect to the inside and outsidefinishes. Part Two — Doors and Windows4.NO TAG

Different types of weatherstripping

Tubular Strip

Fabric,cotton--filled

Hollow core

Hollow tube onattachment strip

Polyester orpolypropylenepile

Spring-loadedor self-adjusting

Spring-metalstrip

Vinyl stripadhesive

Expanded rubber,closed cell

Weatherstripping is a manufactured product that comes in a variety ofmaterials (e.g. vinyl, rubber, neoprene) and in long strips that can be cutto measure. Its purpose is to help make an airtight seal between theframe and the window and door openings. Of course, weatherstrippingcannot compensate for warped windows or doors, but it does tend topreserve a good seal in the face of minor shifting or shrinkage. Examplesof different types of weatherstripping used in different locations include:

S pressure seals, used for hinged doors and windows;

S magnetic seals, used on steel doors;

Drafts or noticeable outdoorsound penetration throughclosed doors or windows: Draftsor noticeable noise (e.g., trafficwhich makes a distinctivewhisper-like sound) may meanthere are gaps around doors andwindows. Check theweatherstripping and Caulking(page 71) for signs of wear andreplace them, if necessary. Anuneven gap between the frame andthe door or the window sashsuggests that the building hassettled. A certain amount ofsettlement is normal; however, gapsthat are larger than 5 mm (3/16 in.)point to excessive settlement —either that, or the door or windowwas not properly installed. In eithercase, contact your builder.

During the first year, thedrying out process maycause minor problems withthe fit of doors, and thesemay correct themselves (TheFirst Year, page 30). If theproblem remains toward theend of the first year, contactyour builder.

Troubleshooting

General Information


S sliding contact seals, used for sliding windows and patio doors;

S sweep-style seals or threshold weatherstripping, used along doorbottoms; and

S foam strip weatherstripping, used for the attic access hatch.

28b Maintenance Tips

Where doors and windows or their frames are made of wood, regularcleaning will prevent the development of wood-eating mold. Repaint thewood when the existing paint blisters or cracks (normally required everythree to five years). General Information

Once a year, apply petroleum jelly to rubber, vinyl or neopreneweatherstripping to keep it flexible. Replace weatherstripping when itbecomes brittle and cracks easily, or has lost its flexibility.

Example of installed weatherstripping

Inner weatherstripping(air barrier)

Outer weatherstripping(weather barrier)




29 DOORS

29a Description

Your entry (exterior) doors may be made of:Doors

S a foam core covered by a veneer of wood or steel;

S solid wood.

Leading out to your back yard or deck, you may have:

S sliding (patio) doors;

S hinged terrace (French) doors.

Patio and terrace doors normally come with a screen door.

Inside doors are usually “hollow core,” with a plywood or fibreboardveneer. If you have an attached garage, between it and the house there isa fire-rated door equipped with an automatic closer: this door is made ofsteel over a foam core or wood veneer over a solid wood core.

Hollow core and foam core doors

Hollowcore

Solidcore

Panelwood

Foamcore

Door “hardware” refers to hinges (which attach to the frame), doorhandles and locks. There are also various kinds of rubber-tipped“bumpers” that screw on to the baseboard behind the door or on the wallat handle-level. These prevent the door handle from damaging the wallwhen someone opens the door abruptly.

For garage doors, see Garage and Carport (page 75). Cabinetdoors are covered in Countertops and Cabinets (page 99).

Troubleshooting

Door hinge is squeaky: Squeeze adrop of household oil on to the top ofeach hinge, and swing the doorseveral times to work the oil into thehinge. If the squeaking continues, liftthe pin from the hinges and applymore oil. When finished, wipe anyspills or excess oil off the outside ofthe hinge.

Handle or lock is squeaky: Lubricatethe handle where it turns against thedoor’s fixed plate. Lubricate the lock atthe latch. Powdered graphite is thebest lubricant, but it can be messy,and a light machine oil will also work.Wipe off excess lubricant.

Drafty exterior door: Possible causesand solutions are described in GeneralInformation (page 79). Sometimes,you can correct a gap between a doorand its frame by inserting a thin sliverof wood (a shim) behind one of thehinge plates.

Door rubs or sticks: There are manypossible causes:

S Loose hinges: Tighten the hingescrews on the door and frame.

S Swollen or warped door: Awooden door will swell slightly inconditions of high humidity. Trylightly sanding the edges of the doorand the frame where they rubtogether. Look for a shiny spot onthe door: that is where it is sticking. Ifyou plane the bottom edge of thedoor to make it fit, you should paintthe raw edge or otherwise seal it.

S Frame shifted out of square:Structural settlement can shift a doorframe, causing the door to rub orstick at some points, and creatinggaps at others. Sand or plane thewooden or fibreboard edges wherethey are rubbing. (Refer to AdditionalTips for guidance on removing thedoor from the frame.) Alternatively,try shimming one of the hinges. Ifgaps are greater than 5 mm (3/16in.), do not try planing or shimming.Instead, contact your builder or adoors and windows expert.

Doors



In preparing for winter, remove the screen doors from the patio doors.First, open the screen a bit, then lift the screen up into the top track, freethe door from the bottom track and pull it out. If you have troublegetting the screen clear of the bottom track, try squeezing the sides of thescreen door in as you lift.

Some screen doors have screws or a guide that you must removebefore pulling the door out of the track.

The original finish on outside door handles and locks will wear withnormal use. For a natural weathered look, remove the remaining finishwith a mild scouring powder; to restore the handles to a look-like-newshine, polish and lacquer them. Polish other indoor hardware with a softcloth.

Door hardware

Deadbolt

Strike

Latch

Every few years, refinish exterior wood doors to prevent warping.Simply scrape off the loose paint and repaint (Exterior Finish: WoodSiding and Wood Trim, page 57). Whenever sanding or planing exposesraw wood, you should protect it by resealing or painting. Painting alsoreduces a door’s tendency to absorb moisture and swell. Repaintscratches on steel doors to prevent rust.


Door drags across carpet: Trytightening the screws that attach thehinges to the door and frame. If thehinges are well secured, remove thedoor (see Additional Tips) and sand orplane its bottom edge.

Minor problems with the fit of thedoor during the first year maycorrect themselves. If theproblem remains toward the endof the first year, contact yourbuilder.

Outside steel door is bowing: In verycold weather, the outside face of thedoor may shrink, causing a slightbowing. Don’t worry. As long as thedoor is weather-tight and opens andcloses properly, it is doing its job. If thelatch or lock will not engage, you mayhave to adjust the hinge or lock plate.Consult a home repair guide.

Bathroom or bedroom door isaccidentally locked: Some bathroomand main bedroom doors have privacylocks, and these are usually activatedby pushing and twisting either thewhole handle or a little knob in thecentre. To unlock the door from theoutside, push a thin wire or nail into thesmall hole in the handle. If the lock hasa slot rather than a hole in the handle,it may have come equipped with a pinto unlock it. A coin or small screwdriverwill also work.

Learn how to unlock the doorfrom the outside before anemergency arises.

Key won’t turn in lock: In coldweather, moisture may freeze in a lock,effectively jamming it. Try acommercial lock de-icer (available inhardware stores). Alternatively, use aflame or hot water to heat the key, theninsert it in the lock and turn it gently asfar as possible; repeat until a full turn ispossible. (If you are using hot water,make sure the key is dry before youinsert it in the lock.) If the lock is notfrozen, the cylinder in the lock mayhave shifted, or the locking mechanismmay be damaged. Consult a homerepair guide or call a locksmith.



Oiling hinges and locks

Conditions causing bowing of steel door

Coldexterior

Warm exterior

Outsidefacecontracts

Door

Inward bow

Inside face expands


Additional Tips

When removing a door, begin bytaking out the pin in the bottomhinge. The pin can be dislodgedusing a thin screwdriver andhammer. Once the pins from boththe bottom and top hinges areremoved, lift the door off thehinges. When reinstalling the door,replace the top pin first.

If the hinge screw will not catch, itis likely that the wood has beenstripped. Put some whitecarpenter ’s glue in the hole andinsert wooden matchsticks(remove the head) or toothpicks.Wait for this to set beforeattempting to re-install the screw.

Especially if you are alonein the house, identify callersbefore letting them in. Lookthrough the window orpeephole, if your door hasone, or install a chain guardthat will allow you to openthe door partially (A Safeand Secure Home,page 26).

Windows


30 WINDOWS

30a Description

Though windows come in many shapes and sizes, they all have certainthings in common. For example, all windows have frames with sidejambs, a bottom sill and a top. The casing (or trim) covers the edge ofthe frame where it meets the wall. The sashes are that part of the windowthat holds the pane or panes of glass in place. To open a window youmove the sashes, either by sliding them or turning them on hinges. Fixedwindows are those that do not open. Windows

Parts of a window

StopSash

Casing

Glazing

Window hardware— the exact type depending on the particular window— includes an opening mechanism, with a range of positions betweenopen and closed, and a locking mechanism to secure the window.

Most window panes are made of glass, except for specialty windows(e.g., skylights), which are sometimes made of acrylic. Safety glass isnow standard in doors and skylights and is occasionally used in largerwindow units. Laminated safety glass (two or more layers of glass with aplastic film between them) cracks but does not shatter. Tempered safetyglass fragments into relatively harmless rectangular pieces.

The energy efficiency of windows has improved dramatically in recentyears. Double-glazed units (two layers of factory-sealed glass) are nowstandard in windows and exterior doors. Air or a dense gas, such asargon, is sealed between the layers to reduce the flow of heat. Various

Drafty windows: On cold days,even an efficient, well sealedwindow may feel drafty (GeneralInformation, page 79). This draftyfeeling is caused by convection:cold air from the surface of the glassliterally falls off it. The builder hastried to offset the effects of cold airconvection by locating heat sourcesin your house as near as possible tothe windows. Curtains and blindsover the window can also help, asthey slow the flow of air. However, ifthere is condensation on thewindows, let the air circulate freely.

Condensation on windows,mildew and wood damage:Condensation on window panes isusually a sign that steps should betaken to control humidity in thehouse (The Environment in YourHouse, page 17). Where there is alot of condensation, water dripsdown the glass to the frame, whereit creates the ideal conditions formold growth. Immediately wipe upwater that collects on window sills.

Condensation or dirt between thelayers: A crack in a double-glazedwindow or the failure of a sealaround the edges allows moistureor dirt to enter. When that happens,an argon-filled window loses someof its ability to keep heat in;however, the loss may not besignificant enough to justify windowreplacement.

Broken window: If you are unableto replace a cracked windowimmediately, stick duct tape over thecrack to prevent it from spreading. Ifa window breaks entirely, put onheavy gloves to remove the loosepieces of glass, starting at the top.Then, staple or tape plastic over theopening. If it is windy or cold out,tack a sheet of heavy cardboard orplywood over the plastic. You willhave to order a new sealed glazingunit from a manufacturer or buildingsupplier.

Troubleshooting



special coatings are now applied to high-performance windows,primarily to help keep winter heat in. The sash material and the sealbetween the sash and the glass also affect the energy performance of awindow. Wood, vinyl and fibreglass, for example, are all goodinsulators. A good window in the right place can actually result in a netgain of heat, because solar gain during the day more than offsets the heatlost at night. However, even thermally efficient windows allow moreheat to escape than does a well insulated wall: at night or other timeswhen there is no solar gain, a window cools a room.


When windows are opened in winter, ice can form and prevent themfrom closing properly. Keep windows locked in winter, and when theyare closed for long periods. This practice keeps the window square andwarp-free, and reduces winter drafts.

Removing screens in winter prolongs their life and allows more light andwarmth to enter the house. Shake the screens to clean them, or use abrush or hose. If the mesh on your screens has a black finish, do not rubthe colour off with abrasive cleaning. (The black colour helps make thescreen seem more transparent.)

Some skylights open or have a small ventilation flap. If the hardware ishard to reach, a special pole is usually provided. Close the skylight orflap when rain is expected, and with the approach of winter.

Once a year, clean the dust, debris and insects off sliders, hardware andother operating parts between the opening unit and the outside frame.

To fight mold and mildew, clean the inside wood finishes on windowsregularly and wipe up any condensation that collects at the bottom edgeof the glass. See Troubleshooting, if you see that condensation isforming.

Paint or finish on wooden windows protects the wood from water andsun damage. Repaint or refinish as soon as the surface begins to crack orbubble.

Paint can make windows jam. Do not paint weatherstripping; donot paint windows when they are shut; and do not paint surfacesthat slide over each other when the window is being opened andclosed.

Additional Tips

Window screens are notsecure enough to bear muchweight against them. Neverallow a child to lean againstthe screen of an openwindow.

Use windows, windowshades and vegetation tokeep your house cool insummer (Landscaping andVegetation, page 43; GeneralInformation, page 101).

You can open windows to bringfresh air into the house; but, forconsistent and balanced ventilationand air circulation, you are better offusing mechanical ventilationproperly (The Environment in YourHouse, page 17).

Windows


Common types of windows

Fixed (non-operating) Casement Awning

Tilt and turn Single or double hung Horizontal slider

Information on type of windows (double-glazed, triple-glazed, Low-E, etc.)

Information on warranties


Part Two — Interior Finishes



31a Overview

“Interior finishes” are the finished surfaces of the floors, walls andceilings of your house. The flooring in a new house is usually acombination of two or more materials chosen from among the following:hardwood flooring; carpeting; resilient flooring (e.g., cushion flooring);and stone or ceramic tile. Part Two — Interior FinishesGeneral Information5.

Most walls in a new house are finished with Drywall (page 96) whichmay be painted or wallpapered. Ceilings are usually finished in drywallas well, perhaps with a textured finish trowelled or sprayed on. Otherwall finishes include vinyl products, and wood, plywood or fibreboardpanelling. In kitchens and bathrooms, stone or ceramic tiles are common.

Interior finishes include other elements, such as Countertops andCabinets (page 99) and their associated hardware (e.g., handles), withthe hardware being typically plated and lacquered with a decorativefinish.

Caulking is an important complement to many of the interior finishes inyour house. Latex caulking fills all the cracks between drywall andwoodwork at doors, windows and baseboards throughout the house.Waterproof caulking (e.g., silicone) seals the joints around taps, bathtubsand plumbing fixtures, where water can be expected to sit.

See Caulking (page 71) for general information on caulking; andSinks, Bathtubs and Shower Enclosures (page 157) forinformation on plumbing fixture finishes and caulking.


To protect your floors from denting, scratching and tearing, put glides orrests under furniture and appliances. Do not drag or drop heavy objectson the floor. Narrow high-heeled shoes can also damage your floors.

The wear and tear on your flooring will be highest where the traffic isheaviest; however, efforts to keep these areas clean will prolong the lifeof flooring. Area rugs and loose runners are also recommended, withnon-slip underpads beneath them. Use plastic or metal edge strips toprotect the juncture of different types of flooring (e.g., where carpetingmeets hardwood).

Hardwood, tile and smooth, resilient floorings can be slippery,especially when wet or snowy. Be careful when wearing houseslippers or smooth-soled shoes.

The builder may have left somesurplus finishing materials (e.g.,paint, wallpaper or tiles) in thehouse, and you can use these forfuture repairs. Be aware, however,that there is usually some fading ordiscolouration of materials in ahouse over time. Even with theoriginal materials, you may not geta perfect match. If you have to buynew materials for a repair, perfectmatching is even less likely, as dyelots tend to change with each batchof materials that a manufacturermakes.

Properly label any materialsleft over after repairs orrenovation, and seal them toavoid off-gassing.

Additional Tips

General Information


For information on squeaky floors, see The First Year (page 30).

Be careful how you attach pictures, shelving and other objects to walls.Most kinds of sticky tape pull off some paint with them when removed.Picture hangers are best, as you can easily fill the small hole they leavebehind. However, do not drive nails through the Drywall (page 96) orother interior finishes on the exterior (outside) walls: you mayinadvertently puncture the vapour barrier and allow moisture from insidethe house to penetrate the structure.

Clean hardware with a soft cloth. Over time the finish on the hardwarewill begin to wear. This will not harm the hardware, but if you want it tolook new, polish it with a metal polish and relacquer (Doors, page 81).

Steel railings and other metal surfaces will rust if they are scratched andchipped: repaint them immediately.




32 HARDWOOD FLOORS

32a Description

The hardwood floors may be made of: Hardwood Floors

S solid wood strips (planks);

S parquet (strips of wood arranged in a checkerboard pattern on smallplywood panels or a mesh backing); or

S laminated panels (several layers of wood, glued together).

A finish protects the floor from dirt, scratches and moisture. Floors maybe finished with a “no-wax” surface, usually polyurethane or with apenetrating sealer (oil).

Before being finished, hardwood floors are sometimes stained to addcolour.


Hardwood is a durable flooring material, which, if cared for properly,can last a lifetime. Regularly sweep or vacuum dirt and grit from thefloor, then clean it with a damp mop. Use a mild detergent, if necessary,but avoid harsh detergents or large quantities of water, as these mayharm the finish or wood. Never leave water standing on your woodfloors. (Standing water is especially likely to go unnoticed underfixtures, appliances or any other areas where condensation, dripping orleaking may occur.) Constant dampness will eventually discolour thefloor.

If your wood floor is finished with a penetrating sealer, you should waxthe floor at least once a year. Use a purpose-made “spirit” wax, eitherliquid or paste. Apply the wax, allow it to dry, then buff with an electricpolisher (available from an equipment rental outlet). Make sure the roomis well ventilated when you apply dry wax, which usually contains toxicsolvents. Alternatively, use a “self-polishing” liquid wax, onespecifically made for use on hardwood floors. Surface-finishedhardwood floors do not need waxing, though a cleaner speciallyformulated for the finish will restore the shine.

Refinishing typically involves sanding the whole floor to removeblemishes, followed by the application of two to three coats ofpolyurethane or an equivalent finish. Depending on the care taken toprotect your floors from wear and tear, the finish will last anywhere fromfive to twenty years. You can usually refinish hardwood several timesbefore you have to replace it.

Slight roughness of floorsurface: This is not uncommon fora floor finished with a penetratingsealer: one or two applications ofwax should smooth it out.

Chipped polyurethane finish:Spot refinish small areas where thepolyurethane is chipped. If the flooris discoloured, rub it gently withfine-grade steel wool or sandpaperbefore applying the polyurethane.

Water stain on a floor finishedwith penetrating sealer: Toremove a light-coloured water stain,rub gently with No. 2 steel wool untilthe stain disappears, then applywax.

Grey discolouration along joints:Water has been seeping in at thejoints. Identify and remove thesource of water, or at least preventit from reaching the floorboards.

Excessively large cracksbetween some floorboards:Concentrated heat in an area (e.g.,from a heat vent) can dry theflooring and cause it to contract. Ifthe heat is coming from below theflooring, insulate the floor over theheat source. However, be careful indoing so to maintain properventilation for combustionequipment.

Troubleshooting

Hardwood Floors


Wood floors may tend to shrink somewhat in the months afterconstruction, as the wood adjusts to conditions in the house. Seasonalchanges will also affect wood, and its natural water content will varywith the humidity in the house. The following occurrences are normal:

S minor gaps between the boards in dry conditions;

S the swelling of boards in conditions of high humidity and a slightlycorrugated appearance when the floor is viewed in the direction of alight source; and

S cracking or popping sounds from parquet flooring, as it expands andcontracts.

Although your floor will adjust easily to seasonal changes in humidity,long periods of high humidity (The Environment in Your House,page 17), or too much direct exposure to water, can buckle or stain thefloor.


Type of hardwood flooring (maple, cherry, oak, etc.) Details of stainand finish.

Additional Tips

To restore the appearance of adulled or lightly scratched floor,“screening” — which involves usingan attachment on the floor polisherto scuff the floor surface lightly — isan alternative to completerefinishing. Screening the floorevery few years may reduce theneed for full refinishing, with theresult that the floor lasts longer.Alternatively, roughen the floorsurface with steel wool and apply afresh coat of finish (though thisdoes not work if wax has ever beenapplied to the floor).



33 RESILIENT FLOORING

33a Description

“Resilient flooring” describes manufactured sheet or tile flooring,usually with a pattern printed on the surface. Resilient flooring may be:

S cushion (sheet) flooring (a flexible sheet comprising a thin layer ofvinyl over a spongy backing);

S vinyl composition tile (thick, rigid tile);

S linoleum sheet or tile (a product made from linseed oil and fillers);or

S rubber sheet or tile.


Follow this basic cleaning routine for resilient flooring:

S Remove loose dirt frequently (daily or at least weekly) with abroom, mop or vacuum. Resilient Flooring

S For full washing, sponge-mop using lukewarm water and a milddetergent or, for high-gloss flooring, a floor-cleaning solution.

S Between full washings, wipe soiled areas with a damp cloth, mop orsponge.

S Clean up spills quickly. If a spill dries, wipe it with a damp cloth,mop or sponge. Use a mild (e.g., dishwashing) detergent or, ifnecessary, a floor-cleaning solution.

S To remove difficult stains, use a damp cloth and gentle scouringpowder, or a mixture of one part bleach to ten parts water. Rinse thearea well after cleaning.

S To restore a dull finish, use a clean sponge-mop to apply a liquidfloor finish formulated for your flooring type.

S You can use an electric floor polisher (available from equipmentrental outlets) to buff flooring after cleaning or applying a liquidfinish.

Do not buff high-gloss floors or use scouring powder or anyother abrasives.

Avoid using too much water when cleaning, as this can seep below theflooring and loosen the adhesive or cause the subfloor to buckle. Also

Troubleshooting

Curled tile: Cover the tile with anold cloth or a double thickness ofaluminium foil, then heat it carefullywith a warm iron: this restoresflexibility to the tile and softens theold adhesive. Lift the corner of thetile gently to avoid tearing. Scrapeoff the old adhesive from the tile’sunderside and apply a thin coat offlooring adhesive, available athardware stores. Press the tilefirmly back into place and use arolling pin to firm it down. Then,while the glue sets, weight the tilewith at least 10 kg (20 lbs.); try alarge book or a board with bricks ora pail of water on it.

Minor scratches: Rub the scratchlengthwise with the rim of a largecoin or rub in a small amount ofpaste wax. If the scratch is stillvisible, lay a double thickness ofaluminium foil over the scratch andheat carefully with a warm iron.

Tears or holes: Repair minordamage quickly to prevent theproblem from getting worse. Forvinyl flooring, wipe the area clean,then use a vinyl floor seam sealerto glue the surface material backtogether. For other types of flooring,use a utility knife to scrapeshavings from a spare piece offlooring, then mix the scrapings witha small quantity of clear nail polish.Put masking tape around thedamaged area and fill the tear orhole with the “putty” you made fromshavings. Lay foil on top of the tear,then press with a warm iron to meltthe shavings. Wait for an hour ormore, remove the tape, and buff therepaired surface lightly with No. 00steel wool.

Resilient Flooring


avoid harsh cleaners, which can discolour and age the material. Do notuse abrasive materials such as steel wool.

Some denting by furniture and appliances is normal. However, use glidesor furniture rests to minimize the damage. Do not use rubber protectorson vinyl flooring, as rubber can stain vinyl.

Repairing a curled tile



“Blisters”: Heat or water seepingin under the flooring can cause it toblister. Before you repair thedamage, make sure you haveremoved the cause. Use a utilityknife to slit the blister lengthwise,extending the cut about 10 mm(3/8 in.) beyond the blister at eachend. Cut along the line of thepattern, if possible, to make the slitless noticeable. Lay down a pieceof aluminium foil, then use a warmiron to soften the flooring around thecut. Insert a putty knife loaded withflooring adhesive into the cut andsmear adhesive on the underside ofthe blistered area. Press the blisterflat, wipe up the excess adhesiveand weight the area down (seeCurled tile) until the adhesive hasset.

Extensive damage: You will haveto replace the whole tile or sectionof flooring. This is not hard. Consulta do-it-yourself renovation manual.



34 STONE OR CERAMIC TILE

34a Description

Entranceways are often floored with stone or ceramic tile, and ceramictile is common in bathrooms. Tiles may also appear in other rooms, suchas the kitchen, family room and sunroom. Tile may be made of:

S quarry tile (an unglazed ceramic tile);

S glazed ceramic tile;

S slate tile; or

S marble tile.

Grout fills the joints between tiles. Flexible caulking seals the junctionsbetween walls, floors and fixtures.


Clean your tiles with mild soap and water, but avoid using too muchwater.

Do not drop heavy objects that might crack the tiles.

A purpose-made tile sealer is used to seal quarry, slate or marble tiles.Reseal the tile periodically, usually every two to five years or as directedon the package of sealer, which is available from tile suppliers orhardware stores. Stone or Ceramic Tile

Remove and replace caulking periodically. Choose flexible, non-toxiccaulking that is compatible with the adjacent materials and will curewithin a few hours (Caulking, page 71; Bathroom Sinks, Tubs andShower Enclosures, page 157).


Damaged tiles: Usually, the builderwill replace tiles that crack within thefirst year because of settlement orshrinkage in the frame; however, thebuilder does not take responsibilityfor breakage due to other causes.Variations in manufacturer dye lotsmean that, in making repairs, it is notalways possible to get a perfectmatch with the original tiles. yourbuilder will not replace whole floorsto avoid a slight mismatch.

Deteriorating grout: Hairline cracksat joints in the tiling are common andare not a problem. However, if thegrout between the tiles chips andfalls out, it should be patched orreplaced, especially where the flooris frequently exposed to water (e.g.,in entranceways and bathrooms).Remove the old grout to a minimumdepth of 2 mm (1/8 in.) and replacewith new matching grout. Usecaulking instead of grout betweentiles and fixtures (e.g., toilets) orwhere tiles meet the wall: caulking isflexible and seals between differentmaterials.

Troubleshooting

Additional Tips

Apply grout sealer (available fromtile suppliers or hardware stores) togrouted joints: it protects them fromstaining.

Grout, tile adhesives andsealers contain chemicalsthat may be risky for peoplewith allergies orenvironmental sensitivities.When shopping formaterials, look for healthalerts on packaging andventilate the work area well(The Environment in YourHouse, page 17).

Carpeting


35 CARPETING

35a Description

The wall-to-wall carpeting in your new house is made of either durablesynthetic yarn, usually nylon, polyester or olefin, or wool fibre.

In making a carpet, the manufacturer stitches the yarn in loops. If theloops are cut, the product is called a “cut pile carpet.” Some carpetsfeature a mix of loop and cut. Carpeting


If you want your carpets to look good and last long, you need to care forthem. Unless they are cleaned thoroughly from time to time, carpets tendto accumulate dust, dust mites, molds, bacteria and other materials,which can affect the health of people living in your household (TheEnvironment in Your House, page 17).

Regardless of the fibre and pile type, there is one basic cleaning routinefor carpets, as follows:

S Clean up spills immediately to prevent spots and staining.

S Remove dirt and lint frequently from areas of heavy traffic.

S Vacuum weekly to remove embedded dirt.

S Have the carpet professionally cleaned every year or two to improveits appearance and to extend its life.

The swinging of doors and the repetitive movement of furniture (e.g.,rockers) can wear out a carpet. Sand or plane the bottom of any Door(page 81) that is rubbing against a carpet.

Spills and stains: To remove spills,first blot up the stain with a papertowel or clean cloth. (If a thicksubstance has been spilled, gentlyscoop up as much as possible witha knife or spatula.) Avoid rubbing.Next apply a cleaner. Soda water ora detergent solution are good atremoving stains left by water-solublesubstances (e.g., juice, coffee, tea,blood and ketchup), or you can usea general purpose foam orpowdered carpet cleaner, availableat supermarkets. You may need acommercial spot-removing solution,available from carpet-cleaningstores, to deal with oily spills. If anystains remain after treatment, call acarpet cleaner for advice.

Black streaking occasionallyoccurs on light carpets. This iscaused by carbon, but thesources of carbon have notbeen well-defined. Thisstreaking cannot be removed.

Odours from the carpet: Todeodorize a carpet, sprinkle itliberally with baking soda, leave thepowder on for at least half an hourand then vacuum.

Troubleshooting




Additional Tips

For some makes of vacuumcleaner, there are micro-linedfilter bags available. Thesebags trap very fine particlesand reduce the amount ofdust in the air duringvacuuming.

Carpet-cleaning chemicalsand soil repellent treatmentscan affect air quality, andsteam cleaning can foster thegrowth of molds, if the carpetis slow to dry. If your carpet-cleaning company uses aconventional process, makesure the house is wellventilated during the work.Some carpet-cleaningcompanies offer alternativeapproaches that eliminate theuse of soap, detergent andfragrance.

Drywall (Wallboard)


36 DRYWALL (WALLBOARD)

36a Description

Drywall (or wallboard) is made of a calcium-based mineral calledgypsum, which is sandwiched between two layers of paper. Drywallcomes in panels that are nailed or screwed to wall studs and ceilingjoists. Drywall compound fills the joints between panels and is sanded toa smooth finish. The surface is then painted or covered in another way.


Drywall is an inexpensive and versatile material. While moisture or ablow from a sharp or heavy object can injure drywall, it is easy to repairand refinish. Use spackling or drywall compound, available at hardwareor paint stores, to patch small cracks or holes in drywall. Drywall (Wallboard)

For the first year or two after construction, the wood framing in the wallsof your house will be drying out (The First Year, page 30). During thistime, normal shrinkage and minor warping in the wood causes some ofthe nails or screws holding the drywall to “pop”. These nails or screwsshow up as raised plugs of drywall, or as localized cracking. Such popsand cracks are common, especially at bay windows, in cathedral ceilings,and around stairway openings. The builder can reduce the incidence ofpops by using dry wood, but even the highest quality materials andconstruction practices cannot completely eliminate the phenomenon. It iseasy to repair nail pops, as follows:

S Drive a new drywall nail or screw through the drywall into the studat a distance of 50 mm (2 in.) above or below the popped nail.

S Carefully scrape away loose material around the popped nail andhammer it back into the stud.

Guidance on repairing damaged drywall

Removeloosedrywall

Fill hole withpatchingcompound

Carefullysand afterpatch hasdried

Minor cracks and “bumps” in thedrywall: See Care and Maintenance.

Gaps or cracks in drywall wherewalls meet the top floor ceiling:Seasonal changes in the amount ofmoisture in the wood andtemperature differences between theceiling and attic cause truss uplifts(i.e., the bowing of roof trusses), andthis in turn causes gaps in thedrywall. Keep humid air from thehouse out of the attic (Roofing,page 58). In attaching drywall, yourbuilder has minimized the risk ofdamage from truss uplift; but sincelittle can be done to prevent minorchanges in the shape of roof trusses,small cracks are likely to appear. Fillthese cracks and gaps with drywallcompound, available at hardwarestores. If the problem is severe (thegap greater than 2 mm or 1/16 in.),contact your builder.

Leaks or water staining on theinside surface of the wall: Watermay be penetrating the roof or siding.Check Roofing (page 58) fordamage. Make sure that no ice damshave formed and that the

Troubleshooting

Roof truss uplift

Top chordbecomes coldand moist(expands)

Bottom chordstays warm anddry (does notexpand) and isforced up frominterior partitions



S Smooth the area with sandpaper and apply drywall compound(available at hardware stores) in three coats over the old and newnails.

S Allow each coat to dry thoroughly before applying the next. Sand toan even finish.

In painting over patched areas, some sign of the patch is likely toremain. Even if the same paint lot is used, perfect blending ishard to achieve. It is best, therefore, to leave drywall pops aloneuntil the house has completely finished drying out (two to threeyears), then repair them before repainting or redecorating.

Hang pictures with special picture hanger nails and hooks, available athardware or framing stores. Place small self-adhesive pads, availablefrom hardware stores, at the back of metal-framed pictures to preventthem from damaging the wall finish. Refer to the illustration forguidance on fastening heavier items to drywall.

Using molly screws or toggle bolts to hang heavy objects

Molly screws have two parts. To install,first make a small hole in the drywalland drive the casing in even with thewall surface.

Tighten the screw to spread the casingin the back. Remove the screw and putit through the item you are hanging,then into casing. Tighten the screw.

To use toggle bolts, drill a hole in thedrywall large enough for the foldedtoggle to go through.

Remove toggle. Put bolt throughtowel bar or whatever you are hang-ing. Replace toggle. Push togglethrough the wall and tighten with ascrewdriver.

Remember, there is a vapour barrier behind the drywall onexterior walls and above the ceiling of the top floor: avoid usinglong nails or screws that would puncture it (The Whole House,An Overview, page 13). If you do puncture the vapour barrier,caulk around the nail or screw (General Information, page 87).


Eavestroughs (page 69) are intactand working. Examine the ExteriorFinish (page 57), and caulk anyvisible cracks. Check the caulkingitself for signs of deterioration andreplace it, if necessary (Caulking,page 71). Consider also whetherhumidity from the house ispenetrating the wall or attic (Roofing,page 58; The Environment in YourHouse, page 17). If you cannotidentify the source of the water, or ifthe repairs within your scope havenot corrected the problem, contactyour builder or a building contractor. Itis important to repair water-relatedproblems immediately, as moisturewill damage and reduce theeffectiveness of insulation and causemildew and wood rot.

Additional Tips

For larger holes in the drywall, applya thin coat of drywall compound, thencriss-cross the area with drywalltape. Coat the tape with compoundand allow it to dry for 24 hours. Applyanother layer of compound, ifneeded. Sand with fine-grainsandpaper, taking care not todamage the surrounding drywall.

Decorative medallions around ceilingfixtures and ceiling mouldings areoften made of moulded plaster. If theplaster chips or cracks, use a plastercompound to repair it.

“Lite” drywall compounds,though more expensive, aremuch easier for thenon-specialist to apply and tosand to a smooth finish.

Choose paints marked with theEcoLogo (The Environment inYour House, page 17), or onesthat your dealer assures youdo not release harmful gases.

Drywall (Wallboard)


Indicate your policy on repair of drywall “pops” and cracks




37 COUNTERTOPS AND CABINETS

37a Description

The finishes for your kitchen and bathroom countertops may be plasticlaminate, solid plastic, tile or stone.

The finishes for your kitchen and bathroom cabinets may be plasticlaminate, high-gloss polyester or wood (solid, particleboard or plywood).


The builder used durable materials for your countertops and cabinets.With proper care, as suggested below, they should continue to look goodfor many years. Countertops and Cabinets

S Do not put hot pots or pans from the stove directly on to the counter.

S Do not use the countertop as a cutting board.

S Wipe up all spills immediately.

S Wipe up excess water, especially around seams, sinks and atcountertop edges, where water can get behind or underneath thefinish and damage it.

S Make sure that dishes and so on are dry before you return them tothe cabinet.

S Clean laminate and wooden doors, cabinet interiors and countertopswith a damp soft cloth and, if necessary, a mild detergent (e.g.,dishwashing liquid). Dry with a soft, dry cloth.

S Using a soft, dry cloth, clean high-gloss polyester doors with anammonia-free window cleaner or a vinegar and water solution.

S For stubborn stains, use a household cleaner and rinse thoroughlywith clean water.

S Do not use abrasive cleaners or steel wool.

S After cleaning naturally finished wood, apply a light coat ofhigh-quality liquid or paste furniture wax. Avoid self-polishingwaxes.

S After cleaning, polish countertops with lemon oil to give them agloss.

S If a hinge is loose, tighten it promptly using the right screwdriver,before the damage gets any worse. (Refer to Troubleshooting for tipson adjusting a door on its hinge.)

Scratches: Use a putty stick to fillsmall scratches on cabinet doors.Colour-matched putty sticks areavailable from paint stores orpossibly from the manufacturer of thecabinet. You can sand solid plasticcountertops if they are verydamaged.

Cabinet door out of alignment:There are two sets of positioningscrews on the hinges on mostcabinet doors. They can be movedrelative to each other to adjust theprecise position of the door: one setadjusts the door from side to side,the other from top to bottom. Playwith these screws to see howloosening one and tightening theother affect the way the door hangs.When you are satisfied with thedoor’s position, tighten — but do notover-tighten — both sets of screws.

Cracks and gaps: Normalsettlement of the house may causethe filler between the cabinets orcountertops and the wall or floor toloosen during the first year or so afterconstruction. Re-seal with a siliconecaulking. Do this immediately forgaps that appear between sinks andthe surrounding countertops (Sinks,Tubs and Shower Enclosures,page 157).

Troubleshooting

Additional Tips

If banging doors annoy you, placerubber self-adhering bumpers at thetop, middle and bottom of cabinetdoors — the part that makescontact with the door frame. Thesebumpers are available at hardwarestores.

Countertops and Cabinets


Indicate the finishes for you kitchen and bathroom’s countertops andcabinets:


Part Two — Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning



38a System Overview

The comfort and health of your household depend on the systems thatheat your house in winter and ventilate it through the year. To regulateindoor temperatures in the summer, your house may also have amechanical cooling system. Part Two — Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning6.

The Heating System or systems in your house convert one or moresources of energy (such as gas, oil, electricity, wood or solar) into heat.One or more Thermostats (page 132) control the amount of heatdelivered or — in the case of central air conditioning — the amount ofcool air. If a furnace heats your house, it distributes heat through aForced Air Duct System (page 130). The cool air generated by a CentralAir Conditioning unit is also distributed through this duct system.GeneralInformation

“Ventilation” describes the process of getting rid of stale or humid airand replacing it with fresh air. Since today’s houses are constructed to beenergy-efficient, air does not leak as freely in and out through cracks andgaps as it tends to in older homes. The creation of good ventilation innew houses, therefore, requires an active approach: at a minimum, airmust be mechanically exhausted from the kitchen and bathrooms. Thismay be accomplished with direct-vent Exhaust Fans (page 134) in theselocations and/or with a central (principal) exhaust system, with a HeatRecovery Ventilator now being the common ventilation device.

One or more fresh-air intakes—these are ducts running from the outsideof the house through an exterior wall to the inside—make up the air thatthe ventilation system exhausts from the house. A hood, often labeled“INTAKE,” covers the duct opening at the outside wall.

Intake hood and duct

Noisy heating system ducts orpipes: The expansion of metal asit heats up, or contraction as itcools, can cause snapping,banging or cracking sounds in theducts. Expansion and contractionare normal and will not affect theperformance of the system.However, a heating and ventilationcontractor may be able to reduceor eliminate the noise.

Stale smelling air: An increase inthe number of occupants or level ofactivity in the household can affectair quality which, in turn, affectsoccupant health. Give seriousattention to signs of inadequateventilation. Use the ventilationsystem deliberately to exhauststale air and bring in fresh air: forexample, combat odours orhumidity in kitchen and bathroomsby turning on the principal exhaustsystem (the switch is usuallycentrally located and should bemarked “Ventilation Fan”) and/orthe Exhaust Fans (page 134). Ifyour house is equipped with a HeatRecovery Ventilator find out how touse it. The Environment in YourHouse (page 17) provides moreinformation on stale air, its causesand cures.

Opening windows may bringin fresh air, but is notrecommended as the mainform of ventilation.

High levels of condensation: Air,if it is too humid, will condense oncold surfaces in the house (suchas windows, mirrors and hardfinishes). If condensation is visiblein such areas, chances are that itis also occurring where you maynot see it, but where it can do evenmore damage (as in the attic orinside the walls). Condensationcan lead to problems and shouldnot be ignored.

Troubleshooting

General Information


In addition to fresh-air intakes for ventilation, one or more intakes maysupply combustion air to your heating appliances. These ducts rundirectly from an outside wall into the combustion unit, or at least near it.


Never block a fresh-air intake or any duct that runs through thewall of your house to the outside. In winter, keep these ductsclear of snow.

Your heating system will only generate heat when the temperaturesetting on the thermostat is higher than the temperature of your house.When you raise the setting, allow for the time it will take for the room towarm up. Do not over-set the temperature: this wastes energy and cancause discomfort. The same applies to your cooling system.


Excess moisture: Many householdactivities — showering, cooking,air-drying laundry and evenbreathing — add moisture to the airin the house. Leaks or seepage intoparts of the house such as thebasement or crawl space alsocontribute to excess moisture.Removing humidity involves muchthe same process as improving airquality. Also take steps to controlsources of humidity. TheEnvironment in Your House(page 17) identifies the causes,signs and risks of humidity andoutlines additional steps forcontrolling it.

If your stove has arecirculating exhaust fan(page 134), this will notremove moisture.


Additional Tips

The sun will affect the heatingand cooling balance of yourhouse. Landscaping andVegetation (page 43)provides guidance on how touse window awnings andvegetation to screen outsummer sun, while letting inwinter sun. To minimize theheating load in summer, closewindows and windowcoverings (blinds andcurtains) during the heat ofthe day and open themduring the night and earlymorning.



39 HEATING: GAS FURNACE

39a Description

Your furnace is both the heat source and distribution centre for yourheating system. The natural gas that fuels the furnace is piped to thehouse from an underground network of gas supply pipes. The gas supplypipe connects to equipment that is owned and operated by the gas utilityand mounted on the exterior wall of your house. This equipmentincludes a shut-off valve, a regulator to reduce the pressure to levels safeenough for household use, and a meter to measure gas consumption.Inside the house, the gas supply pipe connects to the furnace andpossibly to other gas appliances. Gas Furnace

Your furnace has four key components:

S Combustion chamber: Here the natural gas, lit by electric ignitionor a pilot light, burns to create heat.

S Heat exchanger: A series of metal plates or tubes transfer heat fromthe combustion chamber to the household air supply.

S Blower or circulating fan: The fan circulates heated air through thehouse’s duct system (Forced Air Duct System, page 130), which iswhy the system is called a “forced air” heating system. Furnacesmay be supplied with a three speed fan for ventilation (low speed),heating (medium speed) and air conditioning (high speed).

S Filter: The filter screens dust from the air that moves through thefurnace. Your furnace has one of the following:

S a standard disposable filter mounted in a paper sleeve;S a standard reusable filter, typically made from spun fibreglass ormetal, possibly with rods for rigidity; or

S an electrostatic air filter, which electrically charges dust particlespassing through the furnace, then removes them by static electricattraction.

The duct that provides combustion air to the furnace usually enters thehouse at the top of the basement wall and hangs down inside the wall.Your furnace is designed so that gases created during combustion nevermix with the household air. They are vented directly to the outside,either by a fan (an “induced draft fan”) that blows them through a duct atthe side of the house, or through a chimney. A safety device shuts thefurnace down if a powered venting system fails. In high efficiencyfurnaces, which have relatively cool exhaust, the water vapour in thecombustion gases condenses and usually runs into a floor drain or ispumped to a laundry tub.

No heat: If there is no sign ofactivity from the furnace (e.g.,vibration or combustion noise or airflow from the warm air grille) withinfive minutes of setting thethermostat at a higher temperature,take the following steps:

S Ensure that the Thermostatcontrol (page 132) is not set to“OFF” or “AIR CONDITIONING.”

S Check that the emergency on/offswitch has not been accidentallyturned off.

S At the main electrical panel(General Information, page 167),check that the breaker labelled“FURNACE” or “HEATING” is setcorrectly. Switch the breaker to“OFF,” then back to “ON.”

S If a pilot light ignites the gas in thecombustion chamber, check that itis on.

S If there is still no activity, call yourfuel supplier or a furnace servicecompany.

Furnace runs for a short time,then stops, but no air comes fromthe warm air grilles: If your furnacehas a belt-driven fan (i.e., a rubberbelt on the fan motor drives the fan),remove the lower panel on thefurnace to check whether the belthas broken or come off the wheel. Ifthe belt is not the problem, or if it isdamaged but you cannot fix it,contact your gas utility or furnaceservice company.

Remember to turn off thepower to your furnace at theemergency switch or at theelectrical panel (GeneralInformation, page 167) beforeopening the access panel.

Noisy furnace: If your furnace hasa belt-driven fan, a loose or slippingbelt may make a high-pitchedsquealing noise. See the aboveTroubleshooting tip for instructions.

Troubleshooting

Gas Furnace


Gas furnace with induced draft fan

Vent connector

Induced draft fan(no draft hood)

Filter

Cold air return

Warm air to house

Circulating fan

Gas burner

An emergency on-off switch for the furnace is usually located on thebasement ceiling or wall near the stairs. This looks like a light switch butshould be labelled “FURNACE.”

A built-in humidifier, which adds moisture to air passing throughthe furnace, may have been added to your heating system.


It takes a few minutes for the fan to come on after you turn up the settingon a Thermostat (page 132). Do not set the thermostat higher than thetemperature you want: this will not result in faster heating.

To avoid blocking the flow of air around the furnace and to prevent fires,do not store anything — especially flammable or toxic householdchemicals— against or around the furnace. An uncluttered area aroundthe furnace also makes access for maintenance and repair easy.

A dirty filter reduces the efficiency of your heating system. Check thefurnace filter at least every two months during the heating season andchange or clean it as necessary. Remove the old filter, which may befound either in a slot on the furnace or behind a removable access panel.If the furnace is fitted with a disposable filter, replace it with a new filterof the same size, available from a hardware store. If the filter is reusable,vacuum the dirty side, using the vacuum’s hand attachment; some filterscan then be washed in soapy water and rinsed. If you have an

No heat from a particular grille:Check that the grille and the ductdamper are open (Forced Air DuctSystem, page 130). If that is not theproblem, a section of the duct maybe blocked or disconnected.Contact your builder or a heatingcontractor.

Unbalanced amount of heat tovarious rooms: See theTroubleshooting section of ForcedAir Duct System, page 130.

Bad odours from the grilles:Something may be rotting in a duct(Forced Air Duct System,page 130).

If you smell gas, first check tosee if any of your gasappliances have beenaccidentally turned on. If thisis not the source of the gas,open the windows and doorsto ventilate the house andleave the premisesimmediately. Do not turn onany electrical lights orappliances, or generate anysparks or flames. Call yourgas utility from a neighbour’shouse. (See A Safe andSecure Home, page 26, forinformation on reducing therisk of gas leaks andresponding to them.)

Headaches, dizziness, sleepinessor nausea: Odourless combustiongases, if they enter the house’s airsupply, may cause these symptoms.If gas is suspected, open windows,shut off the furnace and call yourgas utility or furnace servicecompany. Seek immediate medicalattention for any symptomsassociated with combustion gases.




electrostatic air filter, consult the manufacturer’s instructions aboutregular cleaning.

Turn off the power to the furnace at the emergency on/off switchor at the electrical panel (General Information, page 167), beforeopening the furnace access panel.

If you have a standard filter, consider replacing it with apremium (pleated) filter as this type of filter will do a better jobof maintaining indoor air quality. Though the premium filter isnot reusable, it may last as much as a year. Before buying such afilter, however, check with your furnace company to make surethis type is compatible with your furnace.

Have the furnace professionally serviced every one or two years,preferably before the heating season begins. Your utility will probablyhave a service program or can recommend a reliable furnace servicecompany. Servicing usually includes checking the safety controls, thevent duct or chimney venting fan, the fresh-air intake, the heatexchanger, the fan motor, the filter and the supply line.

If your furnace has a built-in humidifier, it should be cleaned at leasttwice during the heating season, as specified in the manufacturer’sinstructions. Cleaning keeps the humidifier functioning well, andreduces the risk of mold growth. Turn off and drain the humidifier forthe summer.

Avoid setting the humidity level too high. You can use ahygrometer— a device that measures air humidity — todetermine when to turn on the humidifier. (See The Environmentin Your House, page 17.)


Your furnace has a _________ speed circulating fan.


Heating with Gas. Natural Resources Canada, Home Heatingand Cooling Series #3.

Additional Tips

Install a carbon monoxide(CO) detector close to thefurnace and another in thebedroom area: these willdetect combustion gases thatare not being properlyexhausted, and signal thedanger at an early stage.

You can use the furnace fan to helpcool your house! On hot days, closethe windows and window shadesand turn the fan setting to “ON” atthe Thermostat (page 132) or on thefurnace; the fan will circulate coolbasement air through the house.Make sure the heat switch is set to“OFF”or “COOL.” On cool, drynights, leave the furnace fan off andcool the house by openingwindows. This will allow therelatively low temperatures of thesurrounding earth to cool thebasement again. Do not do this inhumid weather, however, as it canlead to basement condensation andmold.

Save energy while away onvacation! Turn your heatdown to 10_C (50_F).

Oil Furnace


40 HEATING: OIL FURNACE

40a Description

Your oil furnace is both the heat source and distribution centre for yourheating system. A tanker truck supplies oil to a large storage tank,usually located in the basement. A copper fuel line, usually buried in thebasement floor, runs from the oil tank to the furnace. A gauge on the topof the tank tells you how much oil is in the tank. Oil Furnace

Your furnace has four key components:

S Combustion chamber: Here the oil burns to create heat. A burnerlocated on the side of the furnace near the floor ignites the heatingoil in the chamber.

S Heat exchange: A series of metal plates or tubes transfer heat fromthe combustion chamber to the household air supply.



S a standard disposable filter, mounted in a paper sleeve;S a standard reusable filter, typically made from spun fibreglass ormetal, possibly with metal rods for rigidity; or


The duct that provides combustion air to the furnace usually enters thehouse at the top of the basement wall and hangs down inside the wall.Your furnace is designed so that the gases created during combustionnever mix with household air. Some new oil furnaces vent combustiongases directly out the side wall of the house. A safety device shuts thefurnace down if the venting system fails.

An emergency on-off switch for the furnace is usually located on thebasement ceiling or wall near the stairs. This switch looks like a lightswitch but should be labelled “FURNACE.”

A built-in humidifier, which adds moisture to air as it passesthrough the furnace, may have been added to your heating system.

No heat: If there is no sign of activityfrom the furnace (e.g., vibration orcombustion noise or air flow from thewarm air grille) within five minutes ofsetting the thermostat at a highertemperature, take the following steps:

S Ensure that the Thermostat control(page 132) is not set to “OFF” or“AIR CONDITIONING.”





Furnace runs for a short time, thenstops, but no air comes from thewarm air grilles: If your furnace hasa belt-driven fan (i.e., a rubber beltdrives the fan motor), remove thelower panel on the furnace to checkwhether the belt has broken or comeoff the wheel. If the belt is not theproblem, or if it is damaged but youcannot fix it, contact your furnaceservice company.

Remember to turn off thepower to your furnace at theemergency switch or electricalpanel (General Information,page 167) before opening theaccess panel.

No heat from a particular grille:Check that the grille and the ductdamper are open (Forced Air DuctSystem, page 130). If that is not theproblem, a section of the duct maybe blocked or disconnected. Contactyour builder or a heating contractor.

Troubleshooting



Oil furnace

Heat exchanger

Insulatedflue pipe(no barometricdamper)

Air filters

Motors

Combustion chamber High-static burner

Warm air

Fan control

Casing

Cool air

Fan



To avoid blocking the flow of air around the furnace and to prevent fires,do not store anything—especially flammable or toxic householdchemicals—against or around the furnace. An uncluttered area aroundthe furnace also makes access for maintenance and repair easy.

A dirty filter reduces the efficiency of your heating system. Check thefurnace filter at least every two months during the heating season andchange or clean it as necessary. Remove the old filter, which may befound either in a slot on the furnace or behind a removable access panel.If the furnace is fitted with a disposable filter, replace it with a new filterof the same size, available from a hardware store. If the filter is reusable,vacuum the dirty side, using the vacuum’s hand attachment; some filterscan then be washed in soapy water and rinsed. If you have anelectrostatic air filter, consult the manufacturer’s instructions on regularcleaning.

Turn off the power to the furnace at the emergency on/off switchor at the electrical panel (General Information, page 167) beforeopening the furnace access panel.

Noisy furnace: If your furnace has abelt-driven fan, a loose or slippingbelt may make a high-pitchedsquealing noise. See theTroubleshooting tips for instructions.

Bad odours from the grilles: If afuel-like smell is emanating from thegrille, combustion gases may beentering your house air supply.Occupants may notice headaches,dizziness, sleepiness or nausea. Callyour fuel supplier or furnace servicecompany without delay and seekimmediate medical attention for anysymptoms associated withcombustion gases. If the smell ismore “earthy,” something may berotting in a duct (Forced Air DuctSystem, page 130).

Unbalanced amount of heat tovarious rooms: See theTroubleshooting section of theForced Air Duct System onpage 130.


Additional Tips

When the tank is only partly full,moisture can condense on theexposed sides of the tank andcause them to rust. To reduce therisk of rusting, top up the oil inyour tank at the end of theheating season.

Install a carbon monoxide(CO) detector close to thefurnace and another in thebedroom area: these willdetect combustion gasesthat are not being properlyexhausted, and signal thedanger at an early stage.

Oil Furnace




If your furnace has a built-in humidifier, it should be cleaned at leasttwice during the heating season, as specified in the manufacturer’smanual. Cleaning keeps the humidifier functioning well and reduces therisk of mold growth. Turn off and drain the humidifier for the summer.

Avoid setting the humidity level too high. You can use ahygrometer—a device that measures air humidity—to determinewhen to turn on the humidifier. (See The Environment in YourHouse, page 17.)




Heating with Oil. Natural Resources Canada, Home Heating andCooling Series #4.


You can use the furnace fan to helpcool your house! On hot days, closethe windows and window shades,and turn the fan setting to “ON” atthe Thermostat (page 132) or onthe furnace; the fan will circulatecool basement air through thehouse. Make sure the heat switch isset to “OFF”or “COOL.” On cool, drynights, leave the furnace fan off andcool the house by openingwindows. This will allow therelatively low temperatures of thesurrounding earth to cool thebasement again.

Do not do this in humid weather,however, as it can lead to basementcondensation and mold.




41 HEATING: ELECTRIC FURNACE

41a Description

Your furnace, which is powered by the household electrical supply, isboth the heat source and distribution centre for your heating system.Because electric heat consumes more power than all other uses, yourhouse has a relatively large electrical service, usually 200 amps. You caninterrupt power to the furnace at the main electrical panel (GeneralInformation, page 167). Electric Furnace

Your electric furnace has three key components:

S Heating elements: The elements heat air in the furnace.

S Blower or circulating fan: A fan circulates heated air through thehouse’s duct system (Forced Air Duct System, page 130), which iswhy the system is called a “forced air” heating system. Furnacesmay be supplied with a three speed fan for ventilation (low speed),heating (medium speed) and air conditioning (high speed).


S a standard disposable filter, mounted in a paper sleeve; orS a standard reusable filter, typically made from spun fibreglass ormetal, possibly with metal rods embedded for rigidity.

Electric furnace

Air filter

Coldair return

Electric heatingelements

Air filtercontrol box

Circulatingfan

Motor

Warmair supply

No heat: If there is no activity fromthe furnace or air flow from thewarm air grille within five minutes ofsetting the thermostat at a highertemperature, take the followingsteps:


S Check the breaker labelled“FURNACE” or “HEATING” at themain electrical panel (GeneralInformation, page 167). Switchthe breaker to “OFF,” then back to“ON.”

Furnace runs for short time, thenstops, but no air comes from thewarm air grille: If your furnace hasa belt-driven fan (i.e., a rubber beltdrives the fan motor), remove thelower panel on the furnace to checkwhether the belt has broken orcome off the wheel. If the belt isdamaged but you cannot fix it, or ifit appears the belt is not theproblem, contact a furnace servicecompany.

Noisy furnace: If your furnace hasa belt-driven fan, a loose or slippingbelt may make a high-pitchedsquealing noise. See the previousTroubleshooting tip for instructions.

No heat from a particular grille:Check that the grille and the ductdamper are open (Forced Air DuctSystem, page 130). If that is not theproblem, a section of the duct maybe blocked or broken. Contact yourbuilder or a heating contractor.

Unbalanced amount of heat tovarious rooms: Refer to theTroubleshooting section of theForced Air Duct System, page 130.

Bad odours from grilles:Something may be rotting in a duct(Forced Air Duct System,page 130).

Troubleshooting

Electric Furnace


S An electrostatic air filter, which electrically charges dust particlespassing through the furnace, then removes them by static electricattraction.

Your furnace may have a built-in humidifier which adds moisture toair as it passes through the furnace.



A dirty filter reduces the efficiency of your heating system. Check thefurnace filter at least every two months during the heating season andchange or clean it as necessary. Remove the old filter, which may befound either in a slot on the furnace or behind a removable access panel.If the furnace is fitted with a disposable filter, replace it with a new filterof the same size, available from a hardware store. If the filter is reusable,vacuum the dirty side, using the vacuum’s hand attachment; some filterscan then be washed in soapy water and rinsed. If you have anelectrostatic air filter, consult the manufacturer’s instructions on regularcleaning.

If you have a standard filter, consider replacing it with apremium (pleated) filter, as this type of filter will do a better jobof maintaining indoor air quality. Though the premium filter isnot reusable, it may last as much as a year. Before buying such afilter, however, check with your furnace company to make surethis type is compatible with your furnace.

Have the furnace professionally serviced every one or two years,preferably before the heating season begins. Your utility will probablyhave a service program or can recommend a reliable furnace servicecompany. Servicing usually includes checking the elements, the fanmotor and belt, the safety controls and the filter.

If your furnace has a built-in humidifier, it should be cleaned annually,as directed in the manufacturer’s manual. Cleaning keeps the humidifierfunctioning well and reduces risk of mold growth. Turn off and drain thehumidifier for the summer.


Additional Tips

You can use the furnace fan tohelp cool your house! On hotdays, close the windows andwindow shades and turn the fansetting to “ON” at the Thermostat(page 132) or on the furnace, andthe fan will circulate coolbasement air through the house.Make sure the heat switch is set to“OFF” or “COOL.” On cool, drynights, leave the furnace fan offand cool the house by openingwindows. This will allow therelatively low temperatures of thesurrounding earth to cool thebasement again. Do not do this inhumid weather, however, as it canlead to basement condensationand mold.





Heating with Electricity. Natural Resources Canada, Home Heating andCooling Series #2.



Propane Furnace


42 HEATING: PROPANE FURNACE

42a Description

Your propane furnace is both the heat source and distribution centre foryour heating system. A tanker truck supplies propane to a storage tank,located outside the house. A gauge on the tank indicates the fuel level.Propane is piped to the house through a hose, which may be buried if thetank is located away from the house. The hose has a shut-off, usuallylocated just inside the house or near the connection with the furnace.

Your furnace has four key components: Propane Furnace

S Combustion chamber: Here the propane burns to create heat. Thepropane is lit by electric ignition or a pilot light.

S Heat exchanger: A series of metal plates or tubes transfer the heatfrom the combustion chamber to the household air supply.





The duct that provides combustion air to the furnace usually enters thehouse at the top of the basement wall and hangs down inside the wall.Your furnace is designed so that gases created during combustion nevermix with household air. They are vented directly to the outside, either bya fan that blows them through a duct at the side of the house, or througha chimney. A safety device shuts the furnace down if a powered ventingsystem fails. In high efficiency furnaces, which have relatively coolexhaust, the water vapour in the combustion gases condenses, andusually runs into a floor drain or is pumped to a laundry tub.

An emergency on-off switch for the furnace is usually located on thebasement ceiling or wall near the stairs. This looks like a light switch butshould be labelled “FURNACE.”

No heat: If there is no sign ofactivity from the furnace (e.g.,vibration or combustion noise, or airflow from the warm air grille) withinfive minutes of setting thethermostat at a higher temperature,take the following steps:






Furnace runs for short time, thenstops, but no air comes from thewarm air grille: If your furnace hasa belt-driven fan (i.e., a rubber beltdrives the fan motor), remove thelower panel on the furnace to checkwhether the belt has broken orcome off the wheel. If the belt doesnot appear to be the problem, or if itis damaged but you cannot fix it,contact your gas utility or furnaceservice company.

Remember to turn off thepower to your furnace at theemergency switch orelectrical panel (GeneralInformation, page 167) beforeopening the access panel.

Noisy furnace: If your furnace hasa belt-driven fan, a loose or slippingbelt may make a high-pitchedsquealing noise. See the aboveTroubleshooting tips for instructions.

Troubleshooting



Propane furnace

Vent connector

Induced draft fan(no draft hood)

Filter

Cold air return

Warm air to house

Circulating fan

Gas burner

A built-in humidifier, which adds moisture to air passing throughthe furnace, may have been added to your heating system.



To avoid blocking the flow of air around the furnace and to prevent fires,do not store anything — especially flammable or toxic householdchemicals— against or around the furnace. An uncluttered area aroundthe furnace also makes access for maintenance and repair easy.

Check the fuel level periodically during the heating season to ensure thatyou do not run out.

A dirty filter reduces the efficiency of your heating system. Check thefurnace filter at least every two months during the heating season, andchange or clean it as necessary. Remove the old filter, which may befound either in a slot on the furnace or behind a removable access panel.If the furnace is fitted with a disposable filter, replace it with a new filterof the same size, available from a hardware store. If the filter is reusable,vacuum the dirty side, using the vacuum’s hand attachment; some filterscan then be washed in soapy water and rinsed. If you have anelectrostatic air filter, consult the manufacturer’s instructions on regularcleaning.

No heat from a particular grille:Check that the grille and the ductdamper are open (Forced Air DuctSystem, page 130). If that is not theproblem, a section of the duct maybe blocked or disconnected. Contactyour builder or a heating contractor.

Unbalanced amount of heat tovarious rooms: See theTroubleshooting section of theForced Air Duct System, page 130.

Bad odours from the grilles:Something may be rotting in a duct(Forced Air Duct System, page 130).

A fuel smell may indicate apropane leak. Check yourother propane appliances first.If they are not the source ofthe leak, turn the propane offat the shut-off, open thewindows and doors and leavethe premises. Call your fuelsupplier or furnace servicecompany from a neighbour’shouse. (See A Safe andSecure Home, page 26, forinformation on reducing therisk of gas leaks, andresponding to them.)

Headaches, dizziness, sleepinessor nausea: Odourless combustiongases, if they enter the house’s airsupply, may cause these symptoms.If gas is suspected, open windows,shut off the furnace and call your gasutility or furnace service companywithout delay. Seek immediatemedical attention for any symptomsassociated with combustion gases.


Propane Furnace


Turn off the power to the furnace at the emergency on/off switchor at the electrical panel (General Information, page 167) beforeopening the furnace access panel.



If your furnace has a built-in humidifier, the mechanism should becleaned annually, as directed in the manufacturer’s manual. Cleaningkeeps the humidifier functioning well and reduces risk of mold growth.Turn off and drain the humidifier for the summer.

Avoid setting the humidity level too high. You can use ahygrometer—a device that measures air humidity—to determinewhen to turn on the humidifier. (See The Environment in YourHouse, page 17.)



Additional Tips

If the hose from the tank to thefurnace is buried, take care whengardening or digging nearby.

Install a carbon monoxide(CO) detector close to thefurnace, and another in thebedroom area: these willdetect combustion gases thatare not being properlyexhausted and signal thedanger at an early stage.

You can use the furnace fan to helpcool your house! On hot days, closethe windows and window shadesand turn the fan setting to “ON” atthe Thermostat (page 132) or on thefurnace, and the fan will circulatecool basement air through thehouse. Make sure the heat switch isset to “OFF” or “COOL.” On cool,dry nights, leave the furnace fan offand cool the house by openingwindows. This will allow therelatively low temperatures of thesurrounding earth to cool thebasement again. Do not do this inhumid weather, however, as it canlead to basement condensation andmold.




43 INTEGRATED HEATING AND HOT WATER SYSTEM

43a Description

Your system combines heating with a high-efficiency hot water tank.Like any standard hot water tank, this one provides hot water fordomestic uses, such as showering, bathing and washing. In addition, aseries of heat exchange loops run from the hot water tank into the heatexchange chamber of an air-handling unit (which looks like a furnacecabinet but has no combustion chamber). Here, heat transfers from thehot water to air that flows through the chamber. This integrated systemmay be more energy-efficient (using less fuel) than a separate furnace.

See Hot Water Tank, page 146, for additional information on thiscomponent of your integrated heating system.

Your hot water tank may be heated by electricity, gas or oil.

Two important components of your air-handling system are:

S Circulating (blower) fan: The fan delivers heated air to the housethrough a network of ducts, which is why this method of heatdelivery is called “forced air” heating (Forced Air Duct System,page 130). Furnaces may be supplied with a three speed fan forventilation (low speed), heating (medium speed) and air conditioning(high speed).Integrated Heating and Hot Water System

S Filter: The filter screens dust from the air that moves through theair-handling unit. Your air-handling unit has one of the following:

Schematic of an integrated system

Fan

Hot water tank

Pump

No heat: If there is no activity withinfive minutes of setting the thermostatat a higher temperature, take thefollowing steps:

S At the main electrical panel(General Information, page 167),check that the breakers labelled“HEATING” and “HOT WATERTANK” are set. Switch the breakerto “OFF,” then back to “ON.”

S If the blower fan is belt-driven (i.e.,a rubber belt drives the fan motor),remove the access panel on theair-handling unit to check whetherthe belt has broken or come off thewheel. If the belt is damaged butyou cannot fix it, or if it appears thebelt is not the problem, contactyour utility or service company.

S Refer to the Hot Water Tank(page 146) for additional tips.

No heat from a particular grille:Check that the grille and the ductdamper are open (Forced Air DuctSystem, page 130). If that is not theproblem, a section of duct may beblocked or broken. Contact yourbuilder or a heating contractor.

Inadequate heat: If you use a highvolume of hot water in a short periodof time, the water in the tank may notbe hot enough for adequate spaceheating. If so, try to reschedule yourhot water demands (e.g., space outshowers and hot water laundryloads).

Unbalanced amount of heat tovarious rooms: See theTroubleshooting section of ForcedAir Duct System on, page 130.

Noisy air-handling unit: If your unithas a belt-driven blower fan, a looseor slipping belt may make ahigh-pitched squealing noise. Seethe first Troubleshooting tip forinstructions.


Troubleshooting

Integrated Heating and Hot Water System




Your system may also have a built-in humidifier, which addsmoisture to air passing through the air-handling unit.




If you have a standard filter, consider replacing it with apremium (pleated) filter, as this type of filter will do a better jobof maintaining indoor air quality. Though the premium filter isnot reusable, it may last as much as a year. Before buying such afilter, however, check with your furnace company to make surethis type is compatible with your furnace.

Have your heating system — that is, your hot water tank plusair-handling system — professionally serviced every two years,preferably before the heating season begins. Your fuel supplier canprobably arrange for servicing or recommend a reliable service company.

If your system has a built-in humidifier, it should be cleaned annually asdirected in the manufacturer’s manual. Cleaning keeps the humidifierfunctioning well and reduces the risk of mold growth.


Additional Tips

Unless your hot water tank iselectric, consider installing acarbon monoxide (CO)detector close to the tank.This will detect combustiongases that are not beingproperly exhausted and signaldanger at an early stage.

You can use the furnace fan to helpcool your house! On hot days, closethe windows and window shadesand turn the fan setting to “ON” atthe Thermostat (page 132) or on thefurnace, and the fan will circulatecool basement air through thehouse.

If you smell gas, first check tosee if any of your gasappliances have beenaccidentally turned on. If this isnot the source of the gas, openthe windows and doors toventilate the house and leavethe premises immediately. Donot turn on any electrical lightsor appliances or generate anysparks or flames. Call your gasutility from a neighbour’s house.(See A Safe and Secure Home,page 26, for information onreducing the risk of gas leaksand responding to them.)

Headaches, dizziness, sleepinessor nausea: Odourless combustiongases, if they enter the house’s airsupply, may cause these symptoms. Ifgas is suspected, open windows, shutoff the furnace and call your utility orfurnace service company immediately.Seek immediate medical attention forany symptoms associated withcombustion gases.





Make sure the heat switch is set to“OFF” or “COOL.” On cool, drynights, leave the furnace fan off andcool the house by openingwindows. This will allow therelatively low temperatures of thesurrounding earth to cool thebasement again. Do not do this inhumid weather, however, as it canlead to basement condensationand mold.




Electric Baseboard Heating


44 ELECTRIC BASEBOARD HEATING

44a Description

Electric baseboard heaters in rooms throughout the house provide heat.The temperature is controlled: Electric Baseboard Heating

S by a dial on each individual heater; or

S at a thermostat on a wall inside each room.

Electric baseboard heater


Baseboard heaters require very little maintenance. To ensure good airflow, use a brush or vacuum to clean dust from the fins once in the fall,and occasionally during the heating season.

To get maximum heat from your baseboards, do not block the heat flowwith furniture or window coverings. Baseboard heaters are equippedwith a control to prevent overheating; this will shut the heater off if theair flow is restricted.


Heating with Electricity. Natural Resources Canada, Home Heatingand Cooling Series #2.

Additional Tips

With electric baseboard heating,there is a lag time between turningon the unit, and producing thedesired heat. Do not set thethermostat higher than the desiredtemperature: this only wastesenergy and causes discomfort.

In many areas electricity is a “highend” and relatively expensive formof energy for heating. Use it wisely.Turn heat down in unused roomsand reduce temperature settingsat night, and when the house isunoccupied. At the same timethough, keep an eye out forcondensation in cooler areas ofthe house. (See The Environmentin Your House, page 17, for furtherinformation.) Where a house hasmore than one heat source, relyprimarily on the cheaper form.



45 WOOD FIREPLACE OR HEATING STOVE

45a Description

A fireplace set in a “zero-clearance” unit (one that is built into a wall orhas framing built around it) lets you enjoy the beauty of a real, visiblefire. Until recently, fireplaces provided little heat to the house and, insome cases, actually drew warm air up the chimney and caused a netheat loss. However, your fireplace includes features to improve burningefficiency and to ensure that more of the fire-generated heat is deliveredto the house. Wood Fireplace or Heating Stove

A wood stove, which was traditionally used for heating, differs from afireplace in that it is a free-standing unit set on a non-flammable hearthat a safe distance from the walls. Because wood stoves are exposed onall sides, they transfer heat very effectively to the surrounding space.Moreover, the new generation of wood stoves is both cleaner burningand more efficient than previous generations.

The chimney is double-walled, insulated metal pipe that runs from thelevel of the fire to the roof. Stoves have an exposed section of flue pipeconnecting the firebox and the chimney. On the outside of the house, themetal chimney may be left bare or it may be clad in an Exterior Finish(page 57), often the same as that used on the house. While the fire isburning, the chimney produces a draft that exhausts smoke upward andto the outside. Some fireplaces are equipped with ducts to distribute theheat to other parts of the house.

Wood stove

Viewing glass is blackened:Clean off any tar deposits on glassusing a specialized cleaneravailable from fireplace suppliers.These deposits result fromincomplete combustion and, if theyoccur often, you should correct thesource of the problem. Make surethat you use dry wood and that youlet enough air into the fire. Followthe manufacturer’s instructions onadjusting the amount of aircirculating through the fire. Also, insetting and stoking the fire, do notplace the wood too close to thedoors.

Smoke backs into the room:Smoke backs up when the draft inthe chimney is inadequate.Manipulate the air control toincrease air flow. If necessary, openthe fireplace or stove door and addnewspaper to get a fast hot flame. Ifthis does not help, the problem maylie with an imbalance in theventilation system. For example, iftoo much household air is beingremoved by exhaust fans or fromthe clothes dryer and not enoughair is returning through the warm airgrilles or from other sources,replacement air may be drawndown through the chimney: this ispotentially dangerous. To addressthe immediate problem of a smokyroom, open inside doors to roomsaround the fireplace or stove, opena nearby window or one in thebasement, turn off exhaust fans orother sources of exhaust and makesure that warm air grilles in the areaare not blocked. If the problempersists, stop using the fireplace orstove and contact your builder or aspecialist.

One room too hot, the rest of thehouse too cold: A smaller, coolerfire may be sufficient; adjusting theflow of air to the fire will raise orlower its temperature. If your house

Troubleshooting

Wood Fireplace or Heating Stove



Although efficient fireplaces and wood stoves have relatively low airrequirements, there must be a supply of outside air to support the fire,and combustion gases must be released to the outside. Consult themanufacturer’s instructions on using the flue damper and othermechanisms to control the flow of fresh air to the fire. In general, plentyof air is needed to start and establish a good fire and draft, but, once thefire is going, the amount of air can be reduced.

Many modern fireplaces are designed with grilles at the bottom and topto allow room air to circulate around the firebox; thus, heat is picked upand delivered back to the room without risk of the air mixing withcombustion gases. Fireplaces designed in this way may have separatecontrols to allow for different levels of heat exchange: consult themanufacturer’s instructions.

To set a fire, put six to ten sheets of separately crumpled newspaper onthe grate or at the bottom of the firebox. Place ten to fifteen pieces ofdry, finely split kindling over the newspaper, thinnest pieces first andwith the next pieces placed at right angles across these so that air andflames can pass through the stacked wood. Finally, place one or twosmall pieces of firewood on top of the kindling. Once the flames havepartly consumed the kindling, lay more firewood across the burningwood. Wood loaded compactly with logs parallel to each other will burn

Airflow through wood fireplace

Tight-fitting doors

Air-inlet inside firebox and shieldedfrom ashes

Fresh air duct insulatedand fire proofed

Air flow damperOutsidecombustion air

Screened hood

Flue damper

Insulated flue

Starting a new fire

has a forced air system, set the househeating and ventilation system to“FAN” only, or turn it to low speedbetween heating cycles: this will helpcirculate heat from the fire around thehouse. It might also be that thefireplace is radiating heat too directly tothe thermostat. If so, try to screen thethermostat from the fireplace orconsider moving it.




more slowly and for longer. Always use dry wood and allow sufficientair for a good flame. Do not let the fire smoulder (i.e., to burn slowly, atlow heat and without a flame). Never use your fireplace to burn garbage.

Keep flammable materials away from the fireplace and putnothing directly under, beside or behind a wood stove.

For more efficient heating, keep the doors of the fireplace or stove closedduring operation. If the doors are left open, place a properly fitted firescreen over the opening.

To get as much radiant heat as possible in the house, keep the glassdoors of the fireplace clean. A fireplace dealer can recommend a goodcleaner.

If you have a wood stove with a catalytic combustion, brush it clean orvacuum it two or three times during the heating season. Clean it morethoroughly or replace it every one to three years, depending on howmuch the stove is used. Read the manufacturer’s instructions.

Creosote, an oily black substance released during incompletecombustion of burning wood, can build up inside the chimney and createa fire hazard.While little, if any, creosote is produced in a well runmodern fireplace or stove, it is still advisable that the chimney beprofessionally cleaned once a year, preferably before the heating season.You can clean the chimney yourself with a brush-and-rod kit from afireplace supplier, but be prepared for a messy job.

Inspect your fireplace at least once a year, replacing door gaskets andother seals as required. If you notice any other problems, hire a qualifiedchimney sweep to do a thorough inspection.

Specifics on key features of fireplace or stove

Information on ducting of fireplace to adjacent rooms or basement,as relevant



A Guide to Residential Wood Heating. Natural Resources Canada andCMHC, Home Heating and Cooling Series #35.

All About Wood Fireplaces. Natural Resources Canada, Home Heatingand Cooling Series #6.

Additional Tips

A carbon monoxide (CO)detector is recommendedwith a wood-burningappliance.

For easy and safe fires, use dryfirewood and kindling. Protectfirewood from rain and snow andstore it in a criss-cross pattern to letair circulate. Softwoods, such ascedar or pine, make good kindling.Many species of trees produce agood fire: however, hardwoods suchas birch burn especially well andare easy to split into good-sizedlogs.

Do not store more than a few piecesof firewood inside the house. Wetfirewood contains a surprisingamount of water, and this cancontribute to excessive humidity inthe house. The moisture in firewoodcan also foster mold growth, whichcan, in turn, cause health problemsfor occupants.

Use a thermometer, available from awood stove supplier, to measure thetemperature of the fire in a woodstove: this will help you decidewhen to adjust the air flow.

Gas Fireplace or Heating Stove


46 GAS FIREPLACE OR HEATING STOVE

46a Description

By spreading a gas flame through a stack of artificial logs, gas fireplacesand stoves give the appearance of a wood fire. Thus, they let you enjoythe beauty of a real, visible fire, at the same time providing heat with allthe convenience and clean operation of a gas appliance.

A gas fireplace is either built into a wall or framed and finished, while astove is free-standing. Both are now designed to maximize thecirculation of heat into the room. Some gas stoves and fireplaces evenhave ducts to distribute heat to other parts of the house.

Combustion gases from the fire are exhausted through a chimney to theroof, or through a duct to an outside wall. A supply of outside air forcombustion is typically provided directly to the unit.


The gas fireplace or stove is turned on either by a pilot light or byelectric ignition, with a switch at the unit or on a nearby wall. Gas Fireplace or

Heating Stove

Gas fireplace

Insulated casing

Warm air to house

Ceramic glass

Circulating fan Circulating air

Pre-heatedcombustion air

Flue gas

Horizontal ventinstallation

Fresh outside air

House sidewall

One room too hot, the rest of thehouse too cold: A lower heat settingon the stove or fireplace may besufficient. If your house has a forcedair system, set the house heatingand ventilation system to “FAN” only,or turn it to low speed betweenheating cycles: this will help circulateheat from the fire around the house.It might also be that the fireplace isradiating heat directly toward theThermostat (page 132). If so, tryscreening the thermostat from theheat or consider moving it.

Troubleshooting

Additional Tips

A carbon monoxide (CO)detector is recommendedwith a gas appliance.

If your stove is ignited by apilot light, turn the pilot offduring the summer months.



A gas fireplace or stove requires little maintenance. Have it checked atthe same time as the heating and ventilation system is serviced. If yourfireplace or stove is ducted to an outside wall, keep the duct openingclear; especially in winter, do not let snow pile up.

Specifics on key features of fireplace or stove

Information on ducting of fireplace to adjacent rooms or basement,as relevant



Heating with Gas. Natural Resources Canada, Home Heatingand Cooling Series #3.

Heat Pump


47 HEATING AND COOLING SYSTEM: HEAT PUMP

47a Description

A heat pump is a central heating and cooling device that operates muchlike a refrigerator or air conditioner in that it extracts heat from one placeand transfers it to another. Since the direction of the transfer can bereversed, the heat pump can be used both to heat the house in winter andto cool it in summer. Heat Pump

Your heating system may consist of:

S A heat pump and furnace: The system delivers warm air from bothsources to the air-handling unit in the furnace cabinet.

S A heat pump and some supplementary electric resistanceheaters:Warm air from both sources is delivered to an air-handlingunit, which contains a blower fan and filter, then into the Forced AirDuct System (page 130).

Most heat pumps are “air source,” so called because, in winter, the pumpdraws heat from the outside air. The heat pump consists of two heatexchanger coils, one inside the house and the other outside, a liquidcalled a refrigerant, an expansion device, a compressor and a reversingvalve. On its way to the evaporator coil (the evaporator), the liquidrefrigerant passes through the expansion device, where pressure is

Air source heat pump, heating cycle

Low-pressure,low-temperaturevapour

High-pressurehigh-temperaturevapour

Inside coil

Reversing valve

Compressor

Outdoorcoil

Expansion device

Low-pressure,low-temperatureliquid

High-pressure,high-temperatureliquid

Warminsideair

Refrigerant releasesheat to air and returnsto a liquid state

Refrigerantabsorbs heatfrom air andboils to vapour

No air comes from the warm airgrilles: If the system has a belt-drivenblower fan (i.e., a rubber belt drivesthe fan motor), check whether the belthas broken or come off the wheel. Ifthe belt is damaged and you cannotfix it, or if it appears the belt is not theproblem, contact your gas utility orfurnace company.

Remember to turn off the powerto the air-handling unit beforeopening the access panel tothe fan.

Noisy furnace: If your furnace has abelt-driven fan, a loose or slipping fanbelt may make a high-pitchedsquealing noise. See the previoustroubleshooting tip for instructions.

No heat from a particular grille:Check that the grille and the ductdamper are open (Forced Air DuctSystem, page 130). If that is not theproblem, a section of duct may beblocked or disconnected. Contactyour builder or a heating contractor.

Unbalanced amount of heat tovarious rooms: See theTroubleshooting section of Forced AirDuct System in page 130.


Troubleshooting

Additional Tips

As the heat pump extracts heat fromoutside air in winter, you shouldmaximize exposure to sunlight inorder to heat up the air around theoutside unit (compressor andoutside coil). Try to landscape somekind of windbreak for the unit, butwithout shading it from winter sun.



released. Arriving at the coil as a low-pressure liquid/gas mixture, therefrigerant absorbs heat from its surroundings, becoming alow-temperature gas. On its way back to the condensing coil(condenser), compression of the refrigerant causes it to heat up. Therefrigerant gives up its heat at the coil and condenses back to a liquid.The reversing valve controls the direction of flow of the refrigerant.

In winter, moisture in the outside air can build up as ice on the coil, thusreducing the efficiency of the system. Therefore, the heat pump has adefrost mode that reverses the system for short periods of time, sendinginside heat to the outside coils to remove ice build-up.



Remember that air source heat pumps become less effective in very coldweather: in such conditions, you may depend more heavily on yoursupplementary heating system.



Keeping the coils clean maintains good heat exchange capacity andprolongs the life of system parts. Periodically vacuum or brush theoutside coil, then carefully wash them, using a garden hose. Do the samewith the inside coil, if you can reach it by opening the panel at theair-handling unit; if this coil is inaccessible, have it professionallycleaned during servicing.

Have the heat pump professionally serviced once a year, preferably atsome time between the end of the cooling season and the beginning ofthe heating season. Servicing includes: cleaning the fan, lubricating the

Heat Pump


motor, checking the fan speed, checking that fan belts are intact andtight, and verifying coolant levels.



Heating and Cooling with a Heat Pump. Natural Resources Canada,Home Heating and Cooling Series #1.



48 COOLING SYSTEM: CENTRAL AIR CONDITIONING

48a Description

Your central air conditioning system removes heat from air thatcirculates through the house via the same Forced Air Duct System(page 130) as that used to heat the house in winter. Usually, the sameThermostat (page 132) is used to set the temperature in both summer andwinter. Central Air Conditioning

The inside coil of the air conditioning system is in the furnace’sair-handling unit, which is usually located at the top of the furnace. Arefrigerant (coolant) circulates through the coil, and absorbs heat fromthe air that is passing through the unit; the air-handling unit then deliverscooled air to your house.

Central air conditioning on a forced air system

Remote condensersection (high side)

Condensercoil

Condensercooling air

Refrigerantpiping(insulated)

Heat plant

Blower

Return air

Filter

Furnace heatexchanger

Condensercoil

Condensatedrain

Evaporator (lowside) section

Conditioned airto room

Not enough cool air: The volumeof air flowmay be low. Check thatthe furnace filter is clean and that allducts and grilles are open (ForcedAir Duct System, page 130). Icebuild-up on the inside coil can alsoreduce the system’s efficiency. Tomelt the ice from the coil, empty thedrip tray, then turn the Thermostat(page 132) to “OFF.” The ice willmelt, filling the drip tray. Empty thetray, and re-set the thermostat forcooling. If this does not solve theproblem, contact a licenced airconditioning technician who willverify the refrigerant level and re-fillif necessary.

Water leaking from the unit: Pourwater into the drip tray to verify thatthe line to the drain is open. It isimportant that the tray drainproperly. If you cannot solve theproblem, contact a licenced airconditioning technician.

Unbalanced amount of cool air tovarious parts of the house:Modifications can be made toensure balanced distribution of coolair. See the Troubleshooting sectionof the Forced Air Duct System onpage 130.

Water leaking along therefrigerant line between theair-handling unit and the outsideunit: Condensation may result fromgaps in the refrigerant lineinsulation. Repair with pipeinsulation, which is available athardware stores.

Troubleshooting

Central Air Conditioning


The absorbed heat transforms the refrigerant from liquid to gas, which isthen pumped from the inside coil through an insulated hose to an outsideunit (usually a square or round metal box with a fan situated at the sideor back of the house.) A compressor in the outside unit compresses thegas back to a liquid, thereby releasing heat. This heat is discharged —with the help of a fan— through an outdoor coil (condenser) to theoutside air. The liquid refrigerant then returns to the inside coil, whereonce again it is available to remove heat from the house air. As the aircools at the inside coil, moisture condenses on the coil, collects in a panat the bottom of the coil, and drains off.


Resist the temptation to set the thermostat lower than the desiredtemperature: this will not result in faster cooling, but it will waste energyand possibly over-tax the air conditioner. (See Additional Tips for otherenergy-saving advice.)

Do not cover the outside air conditioning unit or let anything —including landscaping or other objects — interfere with the flow of airaround it.

Periodically vacuum or brush the outdoor coil, then carefully wash it. Dothe same with the inside coil, if you can reach it by opening the furnacepanel at the air-handling unit; if the coil is not accessible, have itprofessionally cleaned during servicing. Dirty coils reduce the efficiencyof the system, and dirty indoor coils encourage the growth of unhealthymolds.

Have the air conditioner professionally cleaned and serviced every yearor two, preferably before the cooling season. Servicing should includechecking— and, if necessary, adjusting — the refrigerant levels, pump,fan and controls.

The refrigerant in air conditioners is HCFC-22, which is not asdamaging to the ozone layer as CFCs, but it does cause someozone depletion. Therefore, only a licenced tradesman, one whowill comply with government regulations for handling HCFCs,should service these units. At the end of the cooling season, turnthe air conditioner off at the electrical panel (GeneralInformation, page 167). To minimize possible damage to thecompressor, reset the breaker to the “ON” position a few daysbefore using the air conditioner again.

The outside coil will shed heat moreeffectively if it is located in a shadedand breezy area. Landscaping canprovide shade; however, do notcover the condenser. Allow airmovement around the unit.

Central air conditioning uses alot of energy. Use it wisely.Keep windows and blindsclosed during the day. Avoidusing stoves and otherappliances that add heat to thehouse. On cool, dry nights,turn the air conditioner off andopen windows instead. Controlhumidity and reduce the needfor air conditioning by usingbathroom and kitchen ExhaustFans (page 134) whenshowering or cooking. SeeLandscaping and Vegetation(page 43) for tips on usinglandscaping that will keep yourhome cool.

Clean up any spills from thedrip tray immediately, toprevent mold from forming.

Additional Tips




Air Conditioning Your Home. Natural Resources Canada, HomeHeating and Cooling Series #7.


Forced Air Duct System


49 DISTRIBUTION SYSTEM: FORCED AIR DUCT SYSTEM

49a Description

From the air-handling unit of the furnace, the blower fan blows heatedair into a duct system that delivers the heat to the whole house. In anunfinished basement, hot air ducts can be seen running along the ceiling.These ducts deliver warm air to rooms in the house through one or more“grilles” (louvred or perforated covers, also called “registers”), usuallylocated in the floor below windows. If you have Central AirConditioning or a Heat Recovery Ventilator the same duct systemdelivers cool or ventilation air to your house.

In addition to hot air ducts, another set of ducts returns air from thehouse to the furnace, with intake grilles located on an interior wall ineach room. Inside finished walls and floors, there is often a system ofdesignated channels that are used as return air ducts: such “ducts” maybe simply the enclosed space between adjacent wall studs or floor joists.In an unfinished basement, where there is no drywall to enclose theframing, a section of return air duct running toward the furnace issometimes created simply by covering the space between two ceilingjoists with sheet metal. Forced Air Duct System

Forced air heating system showing supply and return air grilles

Return

Furnace

Supply

If you do not have a forced air heating system, you still have a HeatRecovery Ventilator with its own system of ducts to deliver fresh air andremove stale air. The basic features and maintenance requirements of thisductwork are similar to those described here.

Bad odours from the grilles: Afuel-like odour can signal a safetyor health problem, (HeatingSystems, page 101). An odour ofdecay may mean that something isrotting in a duct. If the source of theproblem is not visible within arm’sreach of the grille, have the ductsprofessionally inspected.

Unbalanced amount of heat tovarious rooms: If some rooms arehotter or colder than you would like,try adjusting the grilles (seeOperation and Maintenance). If thisis not effective, try adjusting theduct dampers as follows:

S For dampers located behind thegrille, remove the grille and reachinto the duct. You should feel around metal disk that can beturned by hand to increase ordecrease the air flow.

S Dampers located on exposedducts along the basement ceilingare fully open when the handlepoints towards the duct and arefully closed when the handlepoints across the duct. Adjustthese dampers gradually. Start byensuring that the dampers forducts that serve cool rooms areopen. If this is not sufficient towarm the cool rooms, slightlyclose the damper to the warmestroom. This adjustment will redirectheat from the warmest part of thehouse: try it out for a day beforeadjusting other dampers. Makesure that not too many ducts areeither partially or fully closed, asthis will make the whole systeminefficient.

If your ducts are not labelledto show what rooms theyserve, see Additional Tips forguidance on figuring out theconnections.

Troubleshooting




Do not block grilles with furniture or clothing. Grilles can usually beadjusted by hand to control the amount of air delivered to the room. If aroom is too cool or too warm, try opening or closing the grille.

Dampers built into each hot air duct allow adjustments to the quantity ofwarm (or, in the summer, cool) air delivered to different parts of thehouse. Use the dampers to make long-term changes— for example, ifthe amount of cool air needed in summer differs from the amount ofwarm air needed in winter. The dampers are located in one of two places:inside the duct, just behind the grille in each room, or along the exposedsection of duct in the basement. See Troubleshooting for guidance onusing these dampers.

Occasionally remove both the warm air and return air grilles,and vacuum as much of the ducts as you can reach. This willremove most of the dust and dirt that gets into the duct system.If your house is especially dusty, or if members of yourhousehold are sensitive to dust and other allergens, considerhaving the ducts professionally cleaned every five years or so.

Balancing a damper in the supply duct

Damper

Balancingdamperlever

Warm airsupply duct

If the joints in the exposedducts in your basement areunsealed and are leaking air,seal them with a low-odourwater-based duct sealant. Ducttape can also be used, but isnot as long lasting. Sealing thejoints will reduce the amount ofheat lost on its way to thehouse. Before sealing, tightenthe screws holding the ductstogether at the joint.


Additional Tips

If ducts with basement dampers arenot labelled to show what roomsthey serve, you can figure out theconnections — labelling them asyou go — as follows:

S Determine the part of the housethe duct runs to by checking whereit rises through the basementceiling.

S Tap the duct at the damper with ametal object while someone elsegoes to the part of the houseserved by the duct, and listens ateach hot air grille in turn.

S To confirm your findings, close thedamper while the fan is runningand have the other person checkthat there is little or no air flow atthe identified grille.

To test the balance between airbeing delivered through the hot airduct and air being removed throughthe return air duct, try the followingtechnique. Twist a wire coat hangerinto a rectangular shape and tapethe open end of a regular-sized(66 cm x 91 cm or 26 in. x 36 in.)plastic garbage bag around the wire.Gently deflate the bag and place itsmouth over the warm air grille. Timehow long it takes the bag to fill withair. Now place the inflated bag overthe return air grille and time howlong it takes to deflate. The twotimes should be roughly equal.

Thermostat


50 THERMOSTAT

50a Description

The thermostat is located on a wall surface, and it should be positionedto protect it from contact with heat sources such as direct sunlight, or hotair ducts and hot water pipes behind the wall. Thermostat

Your house may:

S have one thermostat, centrally located, which controls heat for thewhole house.

S be subdivided into two or more heating/cooling zones; a separatethermostat controls each zone.

S have individual thermostats in each room, or on each heater,controlling the heat from electric baseboard heaters.

The thermostat lets you control the heating in your house so as toregulate temperatures. If you have central air conditioning, thethermostat lets you control cooling as well. At a minimum, yourthermostat:

S shows the existing household temperature;

S shows the desired temperature that you have chosen (the settemperature);

S lets you adjust the set temperature; and

S if you have a forced air system, allows you to control the blower fan(Heating Systems, page 101.) In some cases, the fan switch is locatedon the furnace itself.

Your thermostat may be programmable. This type of thermostat —sometimes referred to as a “setback” thermostat — lets you establish aprogram of different set temperatures throughout the day in accordancewith changing needs for heating or cooling.

Some thermostats have additional features. See the manufacturer’smanual for information.

50b Operation

Do not set the thermostat higher for heating or lower for cooling than thetemperature you want. For most types of heating systems, the desiredtemperature will not be reached any sooner, and energy may be wasted.

A fireplace or heating stove makesone room too hot, the rest of thehouse too cold: If the thermostat islocated in the same area of thehouse as the fireplace or heatingstove, it may be subject to locallyhigh temperatures. This means thatthe thermostat will not trigger, eventhough other areas of the housecool. (See Wood Fireplace orHeating Stove, page 119.GasFireplace or Heating Stove,page 122.)

Lost program on a setbackthermostat: A battery back-up in thethermostat maintains the setprogram in the event of power failure.If the program is lost, check thebatteries.

Troubleshooting



A programmable thermostat

Keep sources of heat or cooling (e.g., a portable heater, floor lamp,television or fan) away from the thermostat, as these appliances willinfluence the thermostat’s reading of the house temperature.

On some forced air systems, you can set the fan to “ON” at thethermostat (or at the furnace), so that it operates even when the heatingor cooling sources are off. Some systems have an automatic two-speedfan that operates continuously at low speed when the furnace is notheating and moves to higher speed when the heat comes on. Ongoingcirculation tends to distribute air more evenly for greater comfort.However, you may find that the fan is too noisy to operate constantly orthat it makes some rooms drafty at some times of day.

If you have a setback thermostat, consult the manual forinstructions on how to program it. Setback thermostats can beprogrammed to lower the house temperature automatically atnight and during school or working hours, when no one is home;similarly, they can be programmed to raise the temperature justbefore household members rise in the morning and return homein the evening. As a general rule, every 1_C reduction intemperature, either overnight or during the working day, reducesyour heating bill by two per cent. Remember, however, thatsetting the temperature too low can cause condensation, whichcan in turn encourage mold growth (see The Environment inYour House (page 17) including Ensuring Energy-efficientOperation (page 23.)


Exhaust Fans


51 VENTILATION SYSTEM: EXHAUST FANS

51a Description

Humidity and odours are most likely to occur in the kitchen orbathrooms. Therefore, in all new homes, regulations require some meansof directly exhausting air from these rooms. This requirement may bemet by a central (principal) exhaust system, a Heat Recovery Ventilatorsystem, exhaust fans in the kitchen and bathrooms, or by somecombination of these. Exhaust Fans

A central exhaust system is composed of exhaust ducts leading from thekitchen, bathrooms and possibly from other areas of the house. A singleexhaust fan, usually with a centrally located switch, draws air from theserooms and into the ducts. When the fan is switched on, the blower fan(Heating Systems, page 101) is also activated, and it circulates airthrough the house via the Forced Air Duct System (page 130).

Ventilation requirements may be met by the central (principal) exhaustsystem.

Exhaust fans may also remove air to the outside through their owndedicated duct. These fans are usually located in the kitchen or one ormore bathrooms.

The ventilation requirements may be met by a combination of a HeatRecovery Ventilator and one or more supplementary exhaust fans in thekitchen or one or more bathrooms.

The kitchen fan is usually located inside the stove “hood” above thestove, and it is often called the “stove hood fan” or “range hood fan.”Less commonly, the stove may have its own built-in fan, which draws air

Stove hood fan

Noisy fan: Install a high-quality fanand ensure proper vibration isolation.

Fan does not appear to be clearingmoisture from the room:Remember that in most cases, thefan will not immediately clear themoisture from the room. To testwhether the fan is working, turn it onand see if it draws up a puff of smokeor flutters a piece of tissue paperheld against it. (You can test theexhaust duct of a central ventilationsystem in the same way.) If the fan isdrawing air, the problem is either thatthe fan is not powerful enough, or theoutside damper or duct cover hasseized shut. While the fan isoperating, check for steam or airmovement where the air exhausts tooutside the house. If no air seems tobe coming out, operate the fan forseveral minutes to thaw any ice thatmight be preventing the damper orcover from working properly; or, ifyou can easily reach the ductopening, try freeing the damper orcover by hand. If these measures donot work, discharge the humidity byopening a nearby window for aminute and call a heating andventilation contractor.

Water drips out of the fan: Themoisture in the air is condensingaround or inside the duct. First,check that the fan housing is wellsealed to the ceiling. If necessary,use caulking or contractor tape toreinforce the seal. If the seal issound, there may be insufficientinsulation or slope on the duct.Contact your builder or a heating andventilation specialist.

Leaks, water stains or other signsof condensation in the walls orattic: If the duct leading from theexhaust fan to the outside isdisconnected anywhere along its

Troubleshooting



down. The switch for the stove hood fan is usually located on the frontedge of the hood. The fan draws air from the stove into a duct leadingdirectly to the outside. This fan will remove odours, heat and excessmoisture created during cooking or boiling water. A metal mesh screenon the underside of the hood protects the fan from grease.

The fan in your stove hood may be recirculating, rather than venting tooutside. This fan draws air up from the stove and passes it through acharcoal filter that is meant to remove smoke and odours. However, asthe filtered air recirculates back into the kitchen, the fan does not removeheat or excess humidity.

The bathroom exhaust fan is located either on the ceiling or high up onan outside wall, and a grille or shallow box covers it. The switch for thefan is usually either the same as the light switch, or located beside it.The bathroom fan exhausts air through the outside wall or roof via aninsulated duct.

Your bathroom fan may be fitted with a timer so that it can be left on fora set time as needed.

Your bathroom may be equipped with a humidistat — a humiditysensor — which automatically triggers the fan to come on when thehumidity reaches a set point.

Shallow metal hoods cap the exhaust ducts where they exit the house. Atthe point of exit, a damper (just inside the duct) or a cover (flap orlouvres over the mouth of the duct) opens when the fan is operating andcloses when it is not. In this way, heat loss from the house is preventedwhen the fan is off.

Exhaust duct hood


Use your fan or fans whenever activities in the kitchen or bathrooms arecreating humidity or odours, or whenever the air smells stale. (See TheEnvironment in Your House, page 17, to learn more about the need tocontrol humidity in the house.)

length, moist exhaust air will dumpinto the walls or attic at thebreakpoint. If there is a break in theduct, you will see little or no steam orair movement at the exterior metalcap. In this case, call your builder ora heating and ventilation contractorto repair the duct. However,remember that there are manypossible sources of condensationand leakage in the walls and attic ofa house. (See the Guide to CommonProblems, “Condensation” and“Leaks,” on page 8.)

The fan does not turn on: Checkthat the breaker at the electricalpanel is set (General Information,page 167). If the breaker is set, itmay be that the fan has burned out.Call an electrician for servicing orreplacement.


Exhaust Fans


In winter, occasionally check the outside duct openings to ensure that thedamper or cover has not frozen shut. (See Troubleshooting for guidance).

Stove hood fan

The metal screen under the stove hood is easily removed. Take it outperiodically and clean it in soapy water. Oil build-up will clog the screenover time, reducing the effectiveness of the fan and creating a potentialfire hazard.

If your stove hood has a recirculating, rather than an exhaust, fan,replace the charcoal filter at least once a year, and more frequently if thestove is heavily used.

Bathroom fans

If the bathroom fan is controlled by the same switch as the light, it willusually operate whenever the bathroom is in use. However, if youcontrol the bathroom fan from a separate switch, be sure to turn it onwhenever excess humidity is being created, particularly during hotshowers or baths.

Periodically brush the fan cover or wash off accumulated dust. Once ayear, in winter, check for drafts entering through the fan duct. Simplywet the back of your hand and hold it up to the fan: if you feel a draft, itis time to act; see the Troubleshooting section.




52 VENTILATION SYSTEM: HEAT RECOVERY VENTILATOR

52a Description

Modern houses are made airtight to reduce heating costs. However,without a regular exchange of air between indoors and outdoors, airquality and humidity problems can develop. The heat recovery ventilator(HRV) is an energy-efficient ventilation device that exhausts stale,humid air from the house and replaces it with fresh outside air. Itrecovers heat from outgoing air and transfers it to incoming air.

The HRV is mounted in a metal box, usually near the furnace. The HRVhas four components: Heat Recovery Ventilator

S Heat exchange core: here the heat is transferred from the outgoingto the incoming air.

S Fans: circulate the air through the HRV.

S Filters: clean the air before it enters the core.

S Defrost mechanism and drain: remove condensation and icebuild-up from the core.

The HRV’s insulated exhaust and intake ducts penetrate the outside wallof the house, with the outside intake being placed at least one metre fromany exhaust openings, to prevent stale air from being drawn back in.

S Your HRV fully meets the ventilation requirements for your house.

Components of an HRV

Controls

Casing Filter

Filter

Insulated duct

Circulationfan

Heatexchange

core

Circulationfan

Condensateto rain

Trap filledwith water

Fresh airto house

Stale airfromhouse

Screen

Hood

Screen

Exhaustair

outlet

OUTDOORSINTERIOROF THEHOME

HRV is not operating: Rememberthat some HRVs are very quiet. Ifyou are not sure that yours isoperating, hold a tissue up to one ofthe exhaust grilles to check for airflow. If the HRV is not operating,check first that it is plugged in andturned on at the control panel. Nextcheck that the breaker is set at the“ON” position at the electrical panel(General Information, page 167). Ifthe breaker trips again after beingreset, it may have short-circuited.Call an electrician.

HRV is on but there is little airflow: Try the following steps, inorder:

S Check the speed control settingon the central control panel.

S Make sure that nothing is blockingintake and exhaust openings onthe outside wall, or the grilles onduct openings inside the house.

S Check that the filters are clean.

S Check that the heat exchangecore is not frozen.

If none of these measures hascorrected the problem, there maybe a disconnected duct. If you areunsure of how to address thisproblem, call a service contractor.

Frozen heat exchange core: Turnoff the HRV at the control panel,open up the HRV unit and let itdefrost. If the system has anautomatic defrost, the mechanismmay need adjustment. Call aservice contractor.

Air is stale or too humid: Set theHRV to the highest speed andcheck for proper air flow at theintake and exhaust. Check also fora frozen heat exchange core. If adehumidistat controls your HRV,check the manual to determine howto set it to come on at a lower

Troubleshooting

Heat Recovery Ventilator


S In addition to the HRV, there are supplemental Exhaust Fans (page134) located in the kitchen and one or more bathrooms.

Your HRV removes stale air via:

S the return air ducts of your Forced Air Duct System; or

S a set of ducts used only for the HRV, usually leading from thekitchen and bathrooms.

Your HRV draws in fresh air and delivers it:

S to the return air duct of the furnace and, thereafter, throughout thehouse via the existing hot air ducts of your Forced Air Duct System;or

S to the living spaces via a set of ducts used only for the HRV.

The main switch for the HRV is usually centrally located, often at apanel near the Thermostat (page 132): it should be labelled“VENTILATION FAN.” There may be additional HRV controls in thekitchen, bathrooms or at other locations. (See Operation andMaintenance.)

HRV integrated with forced air delivery system of furnace

Bathroom exhaustfan intended forintermittent use

Kitchen exhaustfan intended forintermittent use

Normalheatingducts

Manual orautomatic controlfor HRV inter-lockedto furnace fan

Supply fan

Principalexhaust fan

Heat recoveryventilator

Additional Tips

To save energy and money,operate your HRV at the lowestspeed required to ensure goodindoor air quality.

To prevent over-ventilation in thesummer, turn the dehumidistatto “OFF” or to the highestsetting.

Check to see whether eachroom connected via ductwork tothe HRV system is receiving theright amount of fresh air. Twist awire coat hanger into arectangular shape, and tape theopen end of a regular-sized(66 cm x 91 cm or 26 in. x36 in.) plastic trash bag aroundthe wire. Gently deflate the bagand place its mouth over thegrille of the duct that delivers airto the room. Time how long thebag takes to fill with air. Underaverage conditions, an air flowof five litres per second isrecommended for most rooms:at this rate of flow, it should takeabout 13 seconds to inflate thebag. Master bedrooms shouldhave an air flow of ten litres persecond: at this rate of flow, thebag should take about eightseconds to fill. If the bag takesmuch longer to fill, you should

humidity level. If you suspect aproblem with the dehumidistat itself,call a service contractor.

Air is too dry in the winter: Dry aircan cause cracked wood, drysinuses, frequent colds and otherrespiratory problems. Adjust thedehumidistat, set the unit at the lowerspeed or operate the HRVintermittently, rather thancontinuously.





Use your HRV! Properly operated, it is a reliable and cost-effective wayto ensure good indoor air quality year round.

Run the HRV at a high speed during the first year after construction ofyour house, while the house is drying out and products used inconstruction are “off-gassing” (releasing volatile compounds). Similarly,turn the ventilator on high after major renovations or the installation ofnew synthetic carpeting or furnishings.

At other times, the HRV’s rate of air exchange should be set to suithousehold size and lifestyle. High-speed operation is recommendedwhen: the number of occupants is high (e.g., during a party); the kitchenor bathrooms are occupied; tobacco, strong-smelling cleaners, paints orsolvents are being used; or the air quality is noticeably poor. Low-speedoperation is recommended at other times. If the number of occupants istypically small, or the house is vacant for extended periods during theday, the HRV can operate intermittently and even be turned off duringthe summer, if the windows are frequently open; but remember, yourHRV will provide better overall air quality control than you would getusing the windows for ventilation.

S The HRV controls are completely manual: you choose when to runthe ventilator and at what speed.

S A timer in your bathroom(s) lets you turn the HRV on for a set timeto ensure good ventilation of humid air during showers or baths.

S At the control panel, you can set your HRV to operate at either high-or low-speed at pre-set times when household members are likely tobe doing things (e.g., cooking, showering) that release humidity,odours or pollutants into the house.

S Your HRV includes a dehumidistat, which will trigger the HRVwhen a given humidity level is reached. You can adjust thedehumidistat setpoint; and lowering the setting in cold weather willreduce condensation problems. If you have a humidifier, make surethat its humidistat is set at least 15 per cent lower than the HRVdehumidistat.

Every two or three months, clean the filters if they are washable, orreplace them. Before removing the filters, turn off the power to the HRVat the control panel. To clean the filters, vacuum them first, then washthem in soapy water. At the same time, vacuum or brush any accessiblesurfaces around the filter and check that both intake and exhaustopenings at the outside wall are functional and that they are not blockedor covered. Replace washable filters every few years. Some HRVs have awarning light at the control panel, or on the HRV itself, which comes onwhen the filter or other components need cleaning or service.


consider increasing the air flow.(See the information on adjustinggrilles and duct dampers in ForcedAir Duct System, page 130.)

Do not connect a clothes dryer tothe HRV system.

In doing outside renovations orlandscaping, remember to keep theoutside air hoods clear ofobstruction.

Heat Recovery Ventilator


Clean the heat exchange core twice a year, as recommended by themanufacturer. If there is a condensate (drip) pan in the HRV, clean it aswell and pour a litre of water into the drain to check that it isfree-running. Also, clean the grilles at duct openings and any accessiblesections of the ducts themselves.

Information on the operation and maintenance of the HRVductwork and grilles is given in Forced Air Duct System,page 130. If your HRV kitchen exhaust grille has a grease filter,clean it regularly.

Have a heating and ventilation specialist service the HRV every year, atthe same time that the furnace is serviced. Servicing should include anair balance test, as well as checking the ductwork and operation of theHRV (including fan motors, filters, defrost system, condensate drain andcontrols). In a well-balanced system, as much air should be entering asexiting.



Operating and Maintaining Your Heat Recovery Ventilator. NaturalResources Canada, Home Heating and Cooling Series #8.

Part Two — Plumbing and Hot Water



53a System Overview

The plumbing system in your house consists of: Part Two — Plumbing and Hot Water

S plumbing fixtures (toilets, sinks, bathtubs, etc.);

S the water supply system (which brings fresh water to each fixture);and

S the drainage system (which removes wastewater and sewage fromthe plumbing fixtures). General Information7.

The water supply comes into your house from a Well (page 162) locatedon your property or from amunicipal water main, usually buried underthe public roadway. A water meter, located outside where the water lineenters the house, records the quantity of water used by the household.Electronic metering is now common, and municipal staff can read themeter without visiting the property.

Your house may also have a cistern (tank)— not connected to theplumbing system — where rainwater collects for non-potable uses, suchas watering your garden.

Shut-off Valves (page 144) are built into your water supply system atvarious points for use during emergencies (e.g., leaks) or duringplumbing repairs.

The drainage system collects wastewater from all your plumbingfixtures. In case of flood, water also flows into a drain in the basementfloor (Drains and Traps, page 151). Wastewater from your householddischarges to a Septic System (page 164) or to a municipal sewage line.If you have a pump in your basement, it drains wastewater from anyplumbing fixture that stands lower than your house’s drainage exits. Thispump may be automatic or may be turned on at a wall switch, as needed.

Your drainage system has a number of clean-out plugs: these are shortsections of pipe with removable caps that provide access to the system toclear out blockages. Clean-out plugs are usually found in the basementon the street side of the house or, for houses in the country, on the wallwhere the main drainage line goes through to the Septic System. There isalso a clean-out plug on the main sewage line leaving the house.

Venting equalizes the air pressure in the system and prevents water frombeing siphoned out of the traps (Drains and Traps, page 151) and toilets.Each fixture vents to one of the vent stacks going through the roof.

The discharge from storm water and weeping tile (Foundations,page 50 ) is not part of your wastewater system, and may drain to a

Noisy pipes: A loose pipe in thesystem may vibrate noisily whenyou turn the water off. Check to seewhether you should tighten orreplace the clamps or hangers thathold the pipe in place. A slow leakassociated with worn washers canalso make noise when you turn thewater on (Faucets, page 149). Aloud banging known as waterhammering results from the suddenclosing of a mechanicalquick-acting valve on an appliance(for example, a washing machine).Speak to your builder or consult ahome repair book or a plumberabout installing a water-hammerarrester. Correct all these problemsquickly to avoid damage toplumbing connections and valves.

Frozen pipes: If the supply pipesfreeze, soak rags in hot water andwrap them around sections ofexposed pipe, or use a hairdryer.Start with sections of pipe closest tothe faucet. Leave the faucets openduring thawing to allow steam andmeltwater to escape. For hiddenpipes, use a space heater set at asafe distance from the wall. If thedrain pipe has frozen, pour hotwater down the drain. If this fails,apply low heat along the pipes, aswith the supply pipes.

While a frozen pipe isthawing, steam can build upand burst the pipe. Thawpipes slowly or leave the jobto a professional plumber.

A small leak: As a temporarysolution, wrap plastic or duct tapetightly around the leaking section ofpipe. If you suspect a hidden leak,go and look at the meter, which mayhave a window with a dial showingconsumption. If you have a leak, theneedle on that dial will be moving,even if no plumbing fixtures arebeing used. Call a plumber to findand fix the leak.

Troubleshooting

General Information


specially designed pit on your property or the municipal storm watersewer.

Generally, you are responsible for the water and sewage lines onthe property.

Plumbing system

Bath

Lavatory

Kitchensink

Watersupply

Waterheater

Watercloset

Laundryservice


Put no sanitary products, other than toilet paper, down the toilet. Preventlarge particles of food, hair or other solids from going down the drain.Never pour grease, fat or petroleum products down the sink: these willaccumulate over time and block the drains.

Make sure that you can easily reach plumbing Shut-off Valves (page 144)and drain clean-out plugs. In particular, if you plan to finish thebasement, make sure that you build access panels — at least 30 cm x30 cm (12 in. x 12 in.) — for the shut-off valves and clean-out plugs.Also, keep a pathway open to the meter at all times of year.

Never leave your house completely unheated during sub-zero weather. Ifthe house freezes, your pipes, hot water tank and toilets may burst,causing a flood. Similarly, leave at least a little heat on in any room with

A burst pipe: As a temporarysolution, wrap a piece of neoprenerubber around the cracked section ofpipe and secure it with severalclosely spaced, screw-tightenedhose clamps. Call a plumber toreplace the pipe section.


Additional Tips

In an emergency, knowing whereto find your house’s Shut-offValves (page 144), especially themain shut-off, is important. Labelthe main shut-off valve and showeveryone in the household whereto find it and the other shut-offvalves.

If the water supply is going to beinterrupted for very long, turn offyour Hot Water Tank (page 146).Trying to heat a partially filledtank can damage it.

A back-flow preventer (backwatervalve) is a simple device that fitsinto the basement floor drain andprevents flooding from watersurges in lines outside thebuilding. Contact yourmunicipality to see if itrecommends a back-flowpreventer.



plumbing, even if the room is unused (A Safe and Secure Home,page 26).

Location of cistern.

Location of basement pump and switch and, if it is not automatic, how towork it.

Location of clean-out plug on main sewage line.



The average Canadianuses 390 litres of water aday at home, mostly forshowering and flushingtoilets. Wasting water iscostly — to themunicipality, to theenvironment and,ultimately, to you. Manymunicipalities billhomeowners for wateraccording to actual use.However, even if you arenot billed directly for waterconsumption, water supplyand wastewater treatmentconsume a large part ofyour municipal taxes. Fixleaks promptly, do not runtaps unnecessarily, andconsider installingwater-conserving fixturesand appliances (Faucets,page 149 and Toilets,page 157).

Shut-off Valves


54 SHUT-OFF VALVES

54a Description

Your plumbing system has a number of shut-off valves built into it atvarious points. In case of emergency, or during plumbing repairs, youcan turn off the water supply at these valves.Shut-off Valves

Your water supply system has the following shut-off valves:

S Municipal shut-off valve: This valve is generally found near theproperty line. Only the city can turn off the water at this valve.

S Main interior shut-off valve: This valve is on the main water lineand usually in the basement, where the line enters the house.

S Fixture valves: These are found behind toilets, under sinks and nearwashing machines (Drains and Traps, page 151). Most fixtures haveindividual shut-off valves so that they can be repaired withoutshutting off water to the whole house.

S Other valves: These include valves for the Hot Water Tank(page 146) and Outside Faucet (page 149) and for specialequipment.


To turn off the water at most shut-off valves, simply rotate the handle ortap. However, to operate a ball valve, pull up the handle until it isperpendicular to the pipe. Valves, if they are unused for long periods oftime, may tend to stiffen or seize up entirely. Once or twice a year, turnall the valves in your house off, then on again.

Handle for shut-off valve

On Off

Additional Tips

In an emergency, knowing thelocation of the house’s shut-offvalves, especially the main shut-off,can be important. Label the mainshut-off valve and show everyone inthe household where to find it.

Maintain free access to plumbingshut-off valves. For example, if youplan to finish your basement, buildaccess panels — at least 30 cm x30 cm (12 in. x 12 in.) — for allshut-off valves.

If you plan to be away from homefor a while, turn the water off at themain interior shut-off valve.

Fixture or equipment shut-offvalve not working: In anemergency (e.g., if the fixture isflooding) or for quick repairs, turn offwater to the whole house at themain interior shut-off valve. If themalfunctioning valve has seized,apply oil at the base of the tap.Otherwise, call a plumber.

Main interior shut-off valve notworking: In an emergency, if themain interior shut-off valve does notwork, contact your municipal orregional government to close themunicipal shut-off valve. Call aplumber to check the main interiorshut-off valve.

For water problems, theemergency phone numbermay be listed under municipalgovernment services.

Troubleshooting




Name and phone number of emergency water services or relevantdivision (for shutting off municipal water supply).

Hot Water Tank


55 HOT WATER TANK

55a Description

Your hot water tank can be heated by electricity, natural gas, propaneor oil.

The information on the natural gas hot water tank generallyapplies to the propane and oil tank as well. Hot Water Tank

Your hot water tank can be owned, rented or part of your house’s spaceheating system (Integrated Heating System, page 115).

Hot water tanks

Cold water inlet pipe

Hot water outlet pipe

Hot wateroutlet pipe

Cold watersupply valve

Cold watersupplyvalve

Secured withsheetmetal screws

PowercableUpperheatingelement/thermostat

Lowerheatingelement/thermostat

Access panel Insulation Burner Pilot

Electric Gas

Gascontrolvalve /thermostat

Drafthood

Flue

Baffle

Gas shutoff valve

DriplegDrain valve

Dip tube

Dischargetube

Anode rod(anti--

corrosion)

5 to 12 in.above

Tempera-ture

pressurerelief valve

Exhaustchimney (slopesup 1/4 per ft min)


To shut down an electrically heated hot water tank, turn the specifiedcircuit breaker to “OFF” at your electrical panel (Electrical System,page 167). If you have a natural gas tank, turn off the gas supply at thevalve on the gas supply line (this usually connects to the tank at the

A stain or water on the floor underthe pressure relief valve: Anyindication that the relief valve hasopened may mean that your tankoccasionally exceeds its pressure ortemperature rating. Call for serviceimmediately.

Flooding from the pressure reliefvalve: Shut off the power or fuel, aswell as the water supply, to the tank(Operation and Maintenance). Call forservice immediately.

A leak from the tank: The leak maycome from a loose connection or acrack or hole in the tank. If the tank isleaking badly, shut off the power orfuel supply to the tank (see Operationand Maintenance) and drain the tankfrom the valve at the bottom. Ifpossible, connect a hose to the valveand direct the water to a floor drain.Have any leak, no matter how small,fixed immediately.

Never leave a hot water tankon unless it is completely filled.

Never drain an electric tankwithout first cutting off thepower. Most new hot watertanks, no matter what kind theyare, use at least someelectricity. If a circuit breaker atthe electrical panel is specifiedfor the hot water tank(Electrical System, page 167),set it to “OFF” while the tank isdraining.

Lack of hot water: The power supplyto your tank may have beeninterrupted. Check for a trippedbreaker on your electrical panel(Electrical System, page 167). If youhave an electric tank, push the resetbutton on the top thermostat.However, if the power is cutting outrepeatedly, call for service. If youhave a gas tank, check the pilot light(instructions for relighting it aredisplayed on the tank).

Troubleshooting



temperature control dial). Also, you can turn off the water supply to yourtank (the shut-off valve is located at the top of the tank on the cold watersupply pipe).

Never turn off the water supply to the hot water tank withoutfirst shutting off the power or fuel supply. Heating a partiallyfilled tank could lead to an explosion.

You can control your hot water temperature. To change the temperaturesetting, you may need a flashlight and, for an electric tank, a screwdriver.

S In a gas-fired tank, a dial — usually at the bottom of the tank —controls the temperature setting.

S An electric tank usually has two elements, one on top and one at thebottom of the tank. Look for reset buttons and adjustabletemperature settings under cover plates at each element.

Never change the temperature setting on an electric tank withoutfirst cutting the power supply to the circuit (see above).

A pressure relief valve, usually found near the top of your tank, connectsto a rigid discharge tube hanging down the side. Normally, this valve isinactive; however, when the pressure or temperature in the tank exceedspecified ratings, the valve releases water or steam. Test the valveoccasionally by pressing the small lever. If the valve is in good workingorder, it will release a spray of water and, as you release the lever, willreset.

To limit the gradual build up of sludge at the bottom of the tank,periodically open the drain valve at the bottom of the tank and let thewater flow until it runs clear.

Your tank has an eight- to twelve-year life expectancy. Cloudy or reddishwater (and other problems listed under Troubleshooting) may mean thatit is time to replace the tank; however, there are ways to extend thetank’s life. At the first sign of trouble, try to slow down corrosion of thetank by replacing the anode— a long rod put in the tank to attractcorrosion-causing impurities. If your tank is heated by gas, have theheating mechanism checked at the time of your regular furnaceinspection.

Additional Tips

Keeping the watertemperature at 55_C (131_F)or lower will reduce the risk ofscalding, save on energy billsand be easier on your tank’slining. One place you needreally hot water is thedishwasher: however, if yourappliance heats its ownwater, the lower temperatureof the water entering it shouldbe acceptable. (Check themanufacturer’s literature.)

Save energy and moneywhile away on vacation. Turnoff your electric hot water tankat the electrical panel(Operation and Maintenance)or turn your gas tank to the“low” or “vacation” setting.Talk to your fuel supplier ortank manufacturer aboutother energy-saving ideasthat make sense for you.

Frequently running out of hotwater: Try rescheduling some ofyour hot water demands or installwater-conserving devices (Faucets,page 149 and Toilets, page 157).Alternatively, you can raise thetemperature setting on the tank, butthere are some disadvantages tothat (see Additional Tips).

Low flow from the hot water taps:There may be sludge blocking theline from the hot water tank (seeOperation and Maintenance).

Can’t solve a problem? If yourent your tank, call the fuelsupplier; if you own it, call aplumber or electrician.


Hot Water Tank



Location of tank. Fuel supplier name and phone number.

Your hot water tank is owned.

Your hot water tank is rented.

Your hot water tank is integrated to your house’s heating system.


Heating with Electricity. Natural Resources Canada, Home Heating andCooling Series #2.

Heating with Gas. Natural Resources Canada, Home Heating and CoolingSeries #3.



56 FAUCETS

56a Description

Though sink, bathtub and shower faucets come in a variety of shapes andsizes, there are only two basic types: stem faucets (with two handlescontrolling water flow and temperature, and washers to prevent leakingfrom moving parts); and single-lever faucets (only one handle).Single-lever faucets can be further divided into two types: ball faucets(featuring a brass ball with holes that the handle moves into positionover the cold or hot water delivery pipe); and cartridge faucets (wherethe moving parts controlling water flow and temperature are containedwithin a cartridge).Faucets

Stem faucet

Single lever faucet

Stem and single-lever faucets

Your sinks may be equipped with water-conserving faucets that reducewater consumption while maintaining a forceful spray. These faucetssave water, energy and money; however, they fill the sink a little moreslowly.

Your showerhead may be equipped with a low-flow device that reduceswater consumption while maintaining a forceful spray. There may be asmall lever on the side of the showerhead that you can use to reduce orshut off the water flow for a moment during a shower. Use the main

Loose faucet handles: Usually, youcan fix these by lifting the cap off thetap handle and tightening the screwthat attaches the handle to the stemassembly.

Dripping faucets: Generally, youcan fix a leaky stem faucet byreplacing worn washers or faucetseats. If water is leaking from thehandle, you should probably replacethe packing washer or O-ring nearthe top of the stem. Use apre-packaged repair kit to fixsingle-lever faucets, or install a newcartridge. Most home repair manualsoffer step-by-step guidance for suchsimple repairs. Alternatively, consultthe installation and repair manual forthe fixture in question. Always shutoff the water supply to the fixturebefore repairing it (Shut-Off Valves,page 144).

When you turn off the shower in acombination tub/shower, thewaterspout normally drips briefly asthe water drains out of the showerpipe.

Bathtub spout leaking duringshower use: The shower diverter onthe combined tub/shower spout isnot working properly. Buy areplacement part at a hardware orplumbing supply store.

Noisy faucets: Loose washers cancause noisy vibrations (GeneralInformation, page 141).

Poor water pressure: The problemmay be a clogged aerator screen.Before removing and cleaning it,close the drain plug to prevent partsfrom going down the drain. Thenunscrew the aerator cap at the endof the faucet spout or shower nozzle.Disassemble the cap and set theparts aside in order of removal.Clean the screen by soaking it invinegar and scrubbing it with an oldtoothbrush. Reassemble the parts,screw the cap into place by handand tighten 1/4 turn with pliers.

Troubleshooting

Faucets


controls, rather than this lever, to turn off the water at the end of ashower.

Your shower may be equipped with a pressure balance valve, whichkeeps the temperature constant even when another fixture (e.g., thetoilet) is drawing water.

Your Outside Faucet (Hose Bib) is described on page 160.


When turning water off at the faucet, do not force the handles or youmay damage the washers, causing the faucet to drip or leak. Turn thehandles just enough to stop the water flow.

Many fixtures have their own Shut-off Valve (page 144). For example,sinks usually have shut-off valves right underneath the basin. When youwant to repair fixtures, use these instead of the main shut-off valve,which will cut off water to the whole house.

Sink shut-off valves

Hot watershut-offvalve

Cold watershut-offvalve

ON

OFF

Aerator assembly

Faucetspout

Perforateddisc

Washer

Screen

Screwcap

Hardware, home renovatingand department stores alloffer a wide range ofeasy-to-installwater-conservingshowerheads. Look for theEcoLogo (The Environment inYour House, page 17) as aguarantee of the product’senvironmental value.

Use masking tape to cover anyparts of the chrome finish wherepliers will be used. Alternatively,wrap the jaws of the pliers with tape.

Additional Tips



57 DRAINS AND TRAPS

57a Description

Drains are pipes that remove wastewater. Some drains attach to fixtures,while others are set in the floor and drain low parts of the house. Forexample, there is a drain in the basement floor, usually in the utility areanear the hot water tank.Drains and Traps

Every drain has a trap (a U-shaped section of pipe not far below themouth of the drain). The shape of the trap is such that it forms areservoir of water to prevent sewer gases and bacteria from entering thehouse via the pipe. Every time the fixture is used (a sink emptied ortoilet flushed), new water replenishes the trap.


Put nothing down the drain (e.g., hair, large food particles, grease) thatthe fixture is not designed to handle. Follow this advice and you willavoid blocking the plumbing or overburdening the sewage treatmentsystem.

Periodically remove the drain plug (stopper) from the drains in yourfixtures and remove any debris that has collected on the plug or on thecross bars just inside the drain. For advice on how to remove pop-up andpush-button plugs, see the following page. If you have a shower, removeand clean the shower drain screen from time to time, along with thescreen from the basement floor drain. Use an old toothbrush to cleanplugs and screens.

Sink trap

Trap

A sewer smell in the basement:Water may have evaporated fromyour basement drain trap (seeOperation and Maintenance).Similarly, if you have a laundry tubor any other plumbing fixture thatyou do not use often, the trap maydry out. Briefly turn on the water andlet it drain through the fixture.

Valuables down the drain: If youplug the drain and stop the flow ofwater quickly enough, the item maynot be washed through the trap.Some traps have a clean-out cappositioned over a small hole at thebottom of the U. Put a bowl orbucket under the trap, then unscrewthe cap, using a wrench ifnecessary. If there is no clean-outcap, unscrew the coupling nuts ateither end of the U and remove thetrap itself.

A blocked drain: First, try manuallyremoving debris at or near the drainopening. Lift out the drain plug (forpush button and pop-up drain plugs,see the next page) and removeanything caught on the cross barsinside the drain. If this does notwork, try removing the blockagethrough the trap, or use a plunger(see instructions on following page).Once the drain is partly opened,very hot water (maximum 60_C or140_F) will often complete the job.

Drain clean-out cap

install remove

Troubleshooting

Drains and Traps


Because the basement floor drain is mostly unused, the water in the trapmay eventually evaporate. To prevent this:

S Your basement floor drain has a mechanical trap primer: this is asmall water line that runs under the floor between a water pipe(usually the pipe is attached to a nearby plumbing fixture) and thetrap. When you run water in the nearby fixture (e.g., a laundry tub),the primer lets enough water trickle into the drain to maintain thetrap.

S Every three to six months, pour a bucketful of water into thebasement floor drain trap.

Instructions for removing push button and pop-up drain plugs:

The push-button drain plugs that are common to many bathtubs are easyto remove. Simply push the button so that the drain is open, thenunscrew the drain plug counterclockwise. Pop-up plugs are also easy toremove. Below the sink, the pivot rod that moves the plug clips to avertical rod with holes in it (a clevis rod). Squeeze the clip and slide outthe pivot rod. If necessary, first loosen the nut at the back of the drainwith an adjustable wrench. Now lift out the stopper, clean it with a stiffbrush and reinstall it. At the same time, replace the O-ring on thestopper, if it is worn.

Push button drain plug

Push down to plug drain

Push button to open drain

Unscrew toclean drainand cross bar

Cross barinside drain

Corrosive agents are a last resort,as they can damage the pipes andany surface they splash on: usethem to open a blocked drain onlyafter you have tried everything else.Do not use caustic soda to open adrain: caustic soda can combinewith grease or food waste to form aninsoluble compound, a source offuture blockages.

If more than one drain in thehouse is sluggish, theblockage is probably in a maindrainage pipe. Call a plumber.




Removing pop-up drain plug

4. Lift out drain plug

1. Loosen nut

2.Squeezeclip

3. Slide backpivot rodPivot rod

Clevis

Instructions for removing a blockage through the trap:

If the trap has a clean-out cap at the bottom of the U, place a bucketunder the trap and unscrew the cap: if only a little water flows out, theblockage is above the trap; if water flows freely from the hole, theblockage is further down the pipe. Probe with the hook end of anopened-out wire coat hanger to free the blockage. Alternatively, removethe trap and use a drain auger or plumber’s snake to probe for theobstruction. Consult a home repair guide for step-by-step guidance.

Removing blockage through the trap

Coupling nuts

Unscrewclean-out cap

Drains and Traps


If you recently used chemical cleaners on the drain, remnants ofchemicals may remain. Wear rubber gloves to protect your handswhen plunging or probing for an obstruction.

Instructions for plunging a blocked drain:

If the fixture has an overflow (as in a bathtub or sink), block it tightlywith a wet rag. If the fixture is a double sink, close the second drain;and, if there is a dishwasher connected, use a C-clamp to sandwich thedrain pipe hose between two blocks of wood, thus closing it. Removethe drain plug and place the plunger over the drain opening. Fill the sinkor tub enough so that the base of the plunger cup is underwater. Plunge10 to 20 times in succession, pushing down smoothly and pulling upsharply but without breaking the plunger’s seal. On the last stroke,abruptly lift the plunger out of the water.

Sink plunging

Block overflow hole




58 BATHROOM SINKS, TUBS AND SHOWER ENCLOSURES

58a Description

The enclosures around the bathtub, shower and sink are designed toprotect the surroundings, including walls, from water damage. Caulking(a flexible filler) seals all seams and prevents water damage at thejunction of walls, floors, countertops and fixtures. Grout (a hard cementfiller) seals the joints between ceramic tiles. The shower is built toprevent water from running onto the bathroom floor; however, where acurtain rod is provided, install a curtain before using the shower.

Tub and shower area

Grouting between tiles Caulking at corners

Caulkingaroundfaucetsandfixtures

Caulkingat corners

See Drains and Traps (page 151) and Faucets (page 149) formore information on bathroom plumbing.


To protect the finishes on your bathroom fixtures:

S Use non-abrasive cleaners. Though bathroom finishes are designedto be attractive and easily cleaned, abrasive materials can scratchthem. Bathroom Sinks, Tubs and Shower Enclosures

A water leak under the bathroom:There are several possible causes:

S Water may be splashing on to thefloor outside the tub.

S There may be too muchcondensation on ceilings, wallsand around the base of the toilet.(To reduce condensation, see theTroubleshooting tip on mold.)

S The caulking may have failed atthe edge of the tub or whereplumbing fixtures penetrate thefloor or walls; or there may becracks and gaps in the tiles andgrout (Operation andMaintenance).

If none of the above is causing theproblem, you may have a plumbingleak. Call a plumber.

Molds in the bathroom: The warmdamp environment of the bathroomoffers a near perfect habitat formold, and they are especiallycommon above the tub and showerand around windows. As a firstprinciple, to get rid of mold youhave to get rid of excess humidity:

S Use the Exhaust Fan (page 134)during baths and showers.

S Wipe condensation from the tilesafter bathing and spread out wettowels for fast drying.

S Decontaminate with a solutionmade from one part chlorinebleach to two parts water and addjust enough dishwashing liquid toattack surface grime and oil. If thearea is very moldy, apply purechlorine bleach or a commercialmildew remover, keeping thesurface moist for at least15 minutes; then wash with thebleach-water-soap solution anddry rapidly to prevent new mildewgrowth.

Troubleshooting

Bathroom Sinks, Tubs and Shower Enclosures


S Avoid harsh chemicals. Certain chemicals (e.g., photo-developingsolutions and some drain cleaners) stain finishes.

S Use plastic rather than glass or metal containers in the bathroom.When dropped, glass containers can shatter. Metal utensils, oranything made out of hard, heavy materials, can chip ceramicsurfaces.

If you have a shower curtain, take it down from time to time andmachine-wash it.

Check periodically for cracks or gaps in the grouting and Caulking(page 71) around the tub and shower. Remove damaged caulking andreplace it with a high-quality, flexible, waterproof caulking that is suitedto bathroom use, will cure within a few hours and is non-toxic. Applycaulking to clean, dry surfaces. Caulk around the tub while it is filledwith water to ensure that the caulking fills all the gaps at the edge.

The following safety measures are recommended for thebathroom:

S Install tubmats and grab bars in bathrooms, especially those thatchildren or the elderly are likely to use.

S Store medicines, cleaners and other chemicals away from thereach of children.

S Lower the hot water temperature setting on the hot water tank toavoid the risk of scalding (Hot Water Tank, page 146).


Mineral build-up and soapresidue: Clean with a commercialglass cleaner.


Additional Tips

Especially if you haveallergies or environmentalsensitivities, avoid workingwith products containingstrong solvents — forexample, mildewremovers, and some typesof caulking and grout.



59 TOILETS

59a Description

The toilet consists of a seat with a bowl beneath it, and a water tank witha flushing mechanism inside. Large bolts capped with plastic secure thetoilet to the floor and to a wide flange (collar) over the waste pipe.Between the toilet and the pipe, a wax seal — which will normally lastmany years— keeps waste and odours from leaking. Toilets haveShut-Off Valves (page 144) on the water supply line, below or behind thewater tank.Toilets

The flushing mechanism in the tank works as follows: the flush handleon the toilet attaches to a pull chain or rod in the water-filled tank. Whenthe handle is pushed, the chain briefly opens a flap over an exit hole(outlet) at the bottom of the tank. The water swirls out of the tank andthrough the bowl, then flushes down through a water-filled trap into awastewater line. As the level of water in the tank drops, a float ball dropswith it, opening a valve (the ballcock) at the tanks’s water inlet: the tankbegins to fill again. The float ball rises with the inflowing water until theballcock returns to a position where it shuts off the tank’s water supply.If the tank overfills, excess water flows into the bowl through anoverflow pipe.

Typical two-piece toilet

Tank cover(remove carefully)

Shut-offvalve

Bolts holdingtoilet to floorand cover cap

Tank

Flush handle

Bolts for seatand cover

Bowl

Water dripping from the base ofthe tank: Condensation on the tankmay cause the tank to drip (seeOperation and Maintenance).Alternatively, a loose joint betweenthe tank and bowl—indicating thatthe washer has failed—might causethe tank to leak. Turn off the water atthe toilet’s shut-off valve and call aplumber.

Leakage around the base of thetoilet: The wax seal between thetoilet and the waste pipe may havefailed. Turn off the water at thetoilet’s shut-off valve and call aplumber.

Water continuously spilling intothe overflow tube: The ballcockmay be faulty or clogged. The floatmay also be set too high for thewater level; or, if the ballcock issitting too low in the water, it may beleaking. All these problems caneasily be remedied. Consult a homerepair guide.

Water running continuously intothe bowl: If the flap over the outlet isnot closing properly, debris on theoutlet “seat” may be preventing aproper seal. Turn off the water at theshut-off valve and flush the toilet toempty the tank. Then use a brush orsteel wool to clean the rim and innersurface of the outlet seat. If this doesnot solve the problem, see if thechain is too short to allow the flap toseat properly over the hole. Again,empty the tank. If a clamping screwor hook connects the chain to aguide arm, move it about 10 mm(3/8 in.)—or one hole—along theguide arm. If the chain is too long,shorten it by removing a few links.

Toilet not flushing fully (or handlemust be held down to flush): Thechain or wire that lifts the flap off theoutlet inside the tank may be too

Troubleshooting

Toilets


Your toilets may be a low-flush type, designed to conserve water. Do notinstall other water-saving devices (e.g., tank dams) in this type of toiletwithout consulting the manufacturer.

Toilet flush mechanism

Float ball arm

Float ball

Flush ball

Bowl

Tank

Inlet valve

Handle

Ballockassembly


The only things you should put down a toilet are human or pet waste andtoilet paper. Neither the toilet nor the sewage treatment system isdesigned to handle things like tampons, diapers and pet litter.

Clean the toilet bowl and exterior surfaces as necessary, using acommercial, non-abrasive, all-purpose cleaner, or baking soda and milddetergent.

The tank has an insulated liner. Nevertheless, condensation can form ifthe weather is warm and humidity high. If high levels of condensationare likely to damage the floor, put a drip pan under the tank. Rememberto drain and clean the pan often.

long. See the previousTroubleshooting tip for instructionson how to adjust the chain length.

Toilet is blocked: A plunger isoften the answer. If there is notenough water in the bowl to coverthe rim of the plunger, pour more in:do not flush the toilet to fill the bowl.Place the plunger over the toiletopening and pump up and downabout ten times, without breakingthe seal. Pull up abruptly on the lastpump. Repeat several times untilthe blockage clears. Consult ahome repair guide for other options,or call a plumber.

Toilet is loose at the floor:Remove the caps from the nuts atthe base of the toilet and tightenthem carefully. Do not over tightenor you risk splitting the bowl.

Toilet seat is loose: Threadedbolts and nuts attach the toilet seatand its cover to the toilet throughtwo holes behind the toilet bowl.Tighten the nuts by hand or with awrench. Do not over tighten or yourisk splitting the bowl.

Plunging a toilet

Plunger

Bowl Rim

Trap

Toilet opening





Often, if the tank is leakingsteadily into the toilet bowl,you can hear it; however,small leaks, which over timecan waste a lot of water, arehard to hear. Lift the lid of thetank from time to time andcheck that the toilet flushingmechanism is working well.Pour a few drops of foodcolouring into the toilet tank; ifthe water in the bowldiscolours in an hour or so,there is a leak.

The tank dam is a commonand easily installedwater-conserving device thatreduces the amount of waterper flush. These dams,available at hardware stores,are easy to install on mosttoilets; however, they are notrecommended for low-flushtoilets. Another type ofwater-conserving device,available through somemunicipalities, maintains tankvolume but reduces theamount of water wasted asthe tank refills: it can be usedwith low-flush toilets.

Additional Tips

Outside Faucet (Hose Bib)


60 OUTSIDE FAUCET (HOSE BIB)

60a Description

The outside faucet for your garden hose connection is located in thefoundation wall of your house, not far above ground level. You mayhave more than one outside faucet. Outside Faucet (Hose Bib)

Outside hose connection with indoor shut-off valve

Inside shut-off valve

Drain cap

Basementwall

Outsidefaucet


Frozen water can burst pipes. Before winter arrives, close down anddrain the outside hose connection and the hose itself.

Your “freeze-proof” outside faucet has a single shut-off located on anoutside wall; but the valve in the pipe is actually just inside the pointwhere the pipe enters the house, which is why it will not freeze. Firmlyclose the shut-off before winter freeze-up. Disconnect and drain the hoseand store it indoors.

In addition to the outside faucet, your hose connection has anothershut-off valve inside the house. Before winter, close the hose connectionas follows (in order):

S Shut off the inside valve.

S Disconnect and drain the hose.

S Open and drain the outside faucet.

S Unscrew by one full turn the small cap (the drain cap) located behindthe handle of the inside valve. Let any water left in the faucet drainout, then retighten the drain cap.

S Close the outside faucet.

Water from a leaking faucet or hosecan seep into the basement anddamage the foundation wall. Repairleaks immediately or, if a delay isunavoidable, turn off the inside valveuntil you can solve the problem.

Protect access to the hose faucet’sinside shut-off valves. Even if youfinish the basement, build accesspanels that are at least 30 cm x30 cm (12 in. x 12 in.) in size. Do notinsulate the water line that servesthe hose connection: this line goesfrom the basement through thefoundation wall to the outside; ifinsulated from the warm basementair, it could freeze and crack in coldweather.

If you use your hose to fill a pool,and if the water level in the pool ishigher than the faucet, install ananti-siphon device on the faucet: thiswill prevent pool water from backingup into your plumbing system.Remove the anti-siphon device inthe fall when you drain all outdoorpipes and hoses.

Additional Tips



After winter is over, open the hose connection as follows (in order):

S Check that the drain cap is tight and that the outside faucet is closed.

S Open the inside valve fully, then turn it back a half turn.

S Check that there is no leak between the inside valve and thebasement wall or outside the house. If you spot a leak, close theinside valve and check that you completed the previous stepscorrectly. If the leak persists, temporarily repair any damagedplumbing (Troubleshooting, General Information, page 141) and calla plumber.


Well Water Supply System


61 WELL WATER SUPPLY SYSTEM

61a Description

A well supplies water to your house. Water seeps naturally out of thesurrounding terrain and collects in the well, from which it is pumpedthrough buried pipes to the house. Your pump may be a submersiblepump in the well or a jet pump near the storage tank.

The water pipe from the well to the house may have a heating cable in itto prevent freezing or it may be buried deep enough to protect it fromfreezing. Well Water Supply System

A pressure (storage) tank stabilizes water flow and is the immediatesource of water whenever a fixture turns on in the house. In effect, thetank acts as a storage buffer between water in the well and water used bythe household. Usually located in the basement, the pressure tank ispartly filled with compressed air. The air pressure drops as the waterlevel goes down. When it drops to around 25 psi (175 kPa), the pumpturns on; well water flows into the tank until the pressure reaches 50 psi(350 kPa); then the pump shuts off. The result is less wear on the pump,as it is called into service only periodically to replenish a large quantityof water in the tank, rather than frequently and for short bursts everytime a tap is turned on in the house.

Your water system may be equipped with the following additional items:

S an ion-exchange water softener to remove high levels of magnesiumand calcium from the water;

Well water system with pressure tank

Electrical powerline to pump

Electricalcontrols

Water lineto tank

Submersiblepump

Jetpump

Floor drain

Valve todrain tank

Shut-off valve

Water supplyto house

Pressuregauge

Pressure(storage)tankCasing

WELL

OR

Insufficient water supply: Forthose dependent on wells, the watersupply may fluctuate with seasonalchanges in the water table.Compensate, if you can, bymanaging and reducing yourdemand for certain purposes (e.g.,lawn watering). An investment inwater-conserving fixtures (e.g.,showerheads and toilets) andappliances (e.g., clothes washersand dishwashers) may also help(Faucets, page 149 and Toilets,page 157). If capacity is an ongoingproblem, however, call on aplumber to do a well draw-down testand suggest solutions (e.g., anadditional or larger storage tank inthe house for peak use or lowsupply periods).

Poor water pressure: Open allShut-Off Valves (page 144) to theirfullest extent and, if necessary,adjust pressure settings on thepressure tank. If these measures donot solve the problem, check thepressure tank manual forinstructions. Leaks in the plumbingsystem (General Information,page 141) or obstruction in thepipes (Drains and Traps, page 151)may also cause a loss of pressure.

Dirty or discoloured water: Thewellmay be running low: stop usingthe water for a while or reduce yourdemand and see if water qualityimproves. Alternatively, if you havebeen away and are just beginningto use your plumbing again, thewater may contain a higher thannormal level of leached minerals. Ineither case, you will not see clearwater again until that which hasbeen standing in the well and thetank moves through the system. Ifthe problem continues, have thewater tested.

Pump not working: Consider therange of possible causes:

Troubleshooting



S a particle filter to strain out sediments;

S an oxidizing filter to remove iron or hydrogen sulfide;

S an activated carbon filter to remove potentially hazardous organicchemical compounds; or

S a chlorine feeder unit for disinfection.


When necessary, you can turn off the pump and the heating cables at thecircuit breaker in the electrical panel (Electrical System, page 167).

From time to time, inspect the pump and any filters or associated watertreatment equipment. Read the product manuals to learn about themaintenance and servicing needs of this equipment.

Have the water tested every year, or whenever it has an unusual odour, isdiscoloured or has visible particles in it. Many local health departmentstest water free of charge and advise on issues relating to potable water(e.g., the availability and value of special equipment to improve waterquality).

Location of well and well specifications (e.g., type, depth, casing).

Pump specifications (e.g., make and size) and, if it is a jet pump, location.

Location of switch for pump and heating cable.

Additional information on filters, water softeners, etc.


S An interruption in the electricitysupply. Make sure that the pumpis “ON” at the switch, then checkthe circuit breaker at the electricalpanel (Electrical System,page 167). If the source of theproblem is still unclear, look for apoor electrical connection orbroken line.

S A faulty pressure tank switch.Consult the manual.

S A frozen supply line. If you have aheating cable, check that it is“ON” at the switch and at theelectrical panel (Electrical System,page 167).

S A frozen pump. If you have asubmersible-type pump, it mayhave frozen. Remove it from thewell and thaw it out.

S A seized or burned out pump.Replace it.

A short on-off pump cycle: If thepump comes on every time you usea little water — for example, filling aglass from the tap — the water inthe storage tank may haveabsorbed the pressurized air. Thisis not a serious problem, nor is itdifficult to correct; nevertheless, youshould address it promptly to avoidwear and tear on the pump. Consultthe tank manufacturer’s instructionsor contact a well service contractor.


Additional Tips

An insulation jacket on the pressuretank reduces the risk of corrosionfrom condensation.

Once the risk of frost is past,you no longer need heatingcables in the outside supplypipe. Save energy in thesummer by switching thecable off at the circuit breakerin the electrical panel(Electrical System, page 167).

Septic System or Holding Tank


62 SEPTIC SYSTEM OR HOLDING TANK

62a Description

Your house is equipped with a private system for disposal and treatmentof wastewater from your plumbing fixtures. Septic System or Holding Tank

S A septic system is usually comprised of a buried septic tank (awatertight, two-compartment container) and septic field (also knownas a tile bed, leaching bed, drain field or soil absorption field). Thesewage drain pipe vents the tank to plumbing vents in the roof(General Information, page 141).

In the tank, bacteria begin to break down sewage, and the wastesseparate out into three parts: solid waste (sludge) on the bottom; lightwaste (scum) on the surface; and liquid waste between. The liquid drainsoff into the septic field on your property. (You can sometimes spot thelocation of the septic field, as the grass there tends to be exceptionallyhealthy and green.) The septic field consists of a buried network of pipespunctured with small holes. The liquid from the septic tank slowlydrains through these holes in the pipes and into the soil. Do not confusethe septic system’s “tile bed” with the weeping tiles buried around thehouse, which drain groundwater away from the foundations(Foundations and Basements, page 49).

Your house may not have a septic field. Instead, waste from yourplumbing system is stored in a holding tank.

Some of your basement plumbing fixtures may stand at a lower levelthan the drain to your septic system. The fixtures drain to an internalsanitary storage tank in your basement. A float in the storage tank, whenit reaches a certain level, activates the pump, which then dischargeswaste to the septic tank or main holding tank.

Septic tank

From houseTo septic field

Access hatch Access hatch

Inspection opening

Scum

Liquids

Sludge

Smell from the septic field: A badsmell is the first sign that yoursystem is not functioning well. Youmay also notice bright green spotson the lawn and soft, spongysections of ground. To investigate,buy a special tracer dye and flush itinto your septic system. Watch thearea of the septic tank and field: ifsigns of dye appear soonafterwards, it suggests that wastesare moving straight through thesystem without processing. Seekthe advice of an expert immediately.

Dark liquid coming up from thefield: If the field oozes when walkedon, there is a serious problem.Again, seek immediate service.

Troubleshooting

Additional Tips

Avoid overloading the septicsystem with heavy water use over ashort period. Stagger the highestwater-consuming activities (e.g.,washing clothes and bathing). Also,use low-flow toilets, showerheadsand other fixtures and appliances toreduce the risk of overloading(Toilets, page 157 and Faucets,page 149).

A normal septic field lasts 25 to30 years, but good managementcan prolong its life. Do not allowtrees, shrubs or plants with rootsdeeper than those of grass to growwithin 3 m (10 ft.) of the septicsystem. Maintain a consistentground level over the field. Preventerosion and the pooling of water,both of which adversely affect thefunctioning of the septic field. Donot drive over the septic tank andfield or put heavy loads on theground in that area.



Septic system

Leaching bed

AbsorptionHeaders

Septic tankManhole

Distribution box


Have the septic tank inspected annually and pumped out every two tofour years— more frequently, if you have a holding tank instead of aseptic field. Your local health department may recommend a qualifiedcontractor. Even if landscaping hides the site of the septic or holdingtank, make sure that the access hole (manhole) and inspection openingsare not blocked.

In some jurisdictions, the frequency of cleaning is set by law,regardless of the size of the system or household.

Chemicals can interfere with natural bacterial action in a septic system.Restrict the kind and volume of chemicals that go into your system,including those commonly found in cleaners and drain openers (e.g.,solvents, bleaches, disinfectants, acids and caustic solutions). As well,do not pour paint thinner, pesticides or photo-developing chemicals intoyour drains or toilets.

The only solids that should go into the septic system are body waste andtoilet tissue. Do not put anything else into the drain system (e.g., grease,coffee grounds, dental floss and sanitary napkins).

Commercial tank treatments can lead to clogged lines in theseptic field.

Septic System or Holding Tank



Location of tank.

Location of septic field.

Part Two — Electrical System



63a System Overview

The electrical supply is delivered to your house through either a buriedor an overhead cable. The voltage at the point of delivery is 120/240volts at 60 cycles per second. This supply powers the appliances, lights,exhaust fans, etc., in your house, as well as other electrical devicesplugged into the electrical receptacles (outlets) throughout the house.

A meter on the outside wall of your house measures your household’suse of electricity. Your meter may be: in the basement, in the garage,separate from the electrical panel, or on the panel.

The main electrical switch, which you can use to shut off the power tothe whole house, is usually found close to the meter. Part Two — Electrical System

The electrical panel is a large metal box containing the circuit breakers,which should be labelled to indicate which appliances or areas of thehouse they serve. 8.

An electrical circuit is a closed loop linking the power source to anelectrical “load” (e.g., a lighting fixture, electrical appliance or otherpiece of electrical equipment). Current flows through the circuit to andfrom the electrical panel. A “hot” wire carries current through aninsulated electrical cable to the load, and a neutral wire carries it backagain to the panel. A single circuit may connect quite a few small loads,such as lights and small appliances. Major appliances, such as fridges,stoves, dryers and air conditioners, have their own circuits.

Circuit breakers are current-sensitive switches or toggles mounted in theelectrical panel. When the circuit breaker is in the “OFF” position, thecircuit is interrupted, and no power flows to the appliances or receptacleson that circuit. The breaker “trips” (cuts off power) when too muchcurrent is drawn through the cable. This protects against overheating thecable in an electrical circuit and, ultimately, against fire. For example, ashort circuit can occur when the insulation around a “hot” wire wearsthin, and the wire comes into contact with another wire to create a powersurge. A hot wire coming into contact with water— which is anexcellent conductor— can also cause a “short.” Refer to theTroubleshooting section for guidance on restoring power to a circuitwhose breaker has tripped.

Electrical receptacles (outlets) have plug-ins for two three-prongedplugs. The two parallel prongs, one of which — the neutral prong —may be wider than the other, carry the electrical power. The third prong,a round one, connects to a ground wire, which protects against shortcircuits. The ground wire is “grounded” (connects) to the metal water

Power cuts out on a circuit:Follow these steps to determine thecause of the power cut and torestore the power to the circuit:

S Check the breakers at theelectrical panel. A tripped breakertoggle will have shifted position inrelation to others: it may be foundin a middle position, with a red dotor other mark visible on thebreaker; however, some breakerssimply switch to “OFF.”

If the problem relates to areceptacle with a ground faultcircuit interrupter, try pressingthe reset button beforechecking the breaker panel.

S Before resetting the breaker,ensure that the circuit is notoverloaded. If there werenumerous lighting fixtures orappliances in operation on thecircuit when the breaker tripped,or even just a few appliances withhigh power demand, turn someoff.

S To reset the breaker, move it first— if it is in the middle position —to “OFF,” then back in theopposite direction to the positionmarked “ON.” Wait a few secondsto see if it trips again.

S If the breaker trips again, there islikely a short circuit. First, checkall electrical cords for frayed wiresor loose connections anddisconnect any appliance whereyou spot a problem. If the breakertrips again, the problem isprobably in the house wiringrather than in an appliance. Callan electrician.

Troubleshooting

General Information


supply pipe next to the water shut-off valve or to ground rods in theearth outside the house. General Information

Ground fault circuit interrupters are special electrical receptaclesinstalled in bathrooms, garages and outside the house, where thepresence of water involves a particularly high risk of shock. Thesereceptacles shut the power off immediately whenever there is a leakageof current. All bathroom receptacles may be governed by a single resetbutton in one of the bathrooms. Each outside receptacle usually has itsown reset button.

63b Important Safety Tips

Though you can generally rely on the electrical system in yourhouse, you should be aware of a few potential dangers.

S If there is any water around, be careful of any source of electricity. Ifyou are standing in water or in contact with it, or if the wiring is wet,you must not touch the main switch or any part of the electricalsystem nor operate an electric appliance. Before opening the door ofyour electrical panel, make sure your hands are dry, as well as thefloor beneath your feet.

S Do not repeatedly reset a breaker that trips. If you cannot find andcorrect the cause of the short circuit (see Troubleshooting), call anelectrician immediately.

S If you have an overhead electrical supply cable, be careful whenworking outside the house not to touch it.

S If you have a buried electrical supply cable, contact your electricutility company, as well as other utility companies (gas, cable,telephone) before digging.

S When using an extension cord, unroll the whole thing. Leavingwiring tightly rolled can cause overheating and even fire.

S Do not pull plugs from receptacles by the wire. Grip the plug itself.

S Protect small children by covering any unused receptacles withintheir reach with purpose-made covers (available at any hardwarestore). Keep appliances and lamp cords out of the way of infants andremove cords that might trip someone.

For greater safety and certainty, make sure that any electrical applianceyou buy is approved (and labelled) by the Canadian StandardsAssociation (CSA) or Underwriters Laboratories of Canada (ULC).

Foreign-made appliances andequipment may be designed foreither a 240- or a 120-volt system,and they must be set to 120 voltsbefore they are used in Canada.(Before purchasing an applianceabroad, make sure that it can beused at 120 volts.)

Compact fluorescent bulbscan be screwed into regularlight bulb sockets. Theydeliver the same amount oflight as regular(incandescent) bulbs but useabout one-fifth the energy.Use compact fluorescentbulbs in any fixture that takesa 60W or greaterincandescent bulb, and thatis used an average of threeor more hours a day. Whilethey are more expensive tobuy, these bulbs more thanpay for themselves throughthe energy they conserveover their long lifetime.

Additional Tips

Part Two — Electrical System


63c Operation and Maintenance

A switch on the wall at the entrance to a room usually controls theoverhead light fixture. If there is no overhead fixture, the switch controlsthe upper receptacle on one of the outlets along the wall. The switch willactivate any floor or table lamp plugged into that receptacle, as long asthe lamp is switched “ON.”

Hinged covers protect outside receptacles from rain. Keep this coverclosed when the receptacle is not in use.

Periodically test your ground fault circuit interrupters. Press the “TEST”button while a fixture is on. If the power to the fixture shuts off, theinterrupter is working. Then press the “RESET” button to restore powerto the receptacle.

Before replacing a light bulb, make sure the fixture is turned off. Neverexceed the watt maximums indicated on the sticker on the fixture.

If a bulb has broken and you have to unscrew it by holding themetal base, turn off the power to the circuit first. Set the breakerto “OFF” at the electrical panel.

To change a fluorescent tube, gently rotate the old tube until it releases.Insert the new tube by sliding the prongs at either end into the slots.Rotate the tube about a quarter turn to fix it in place.

Make sure that household members all know the location of—and howto use—the main electrical switch and the breakers in the electricalpanel. In the event of flooding or any situation that makes electricitydangerous, turn the power off at the main switch. But do this only if youare able to stand in a dry place while touching the panel. (See ImportantSafety Tips.)


General Information




Well you’ve worked hard and long, searched far and wide, and that day has finally come… You’ve found that perfect home! Now you ask yourself: “How do I keep it perfect?”

At CMHC we feel that it’s only natural that there be an operator’s manual for the biggest, most important, most expensive purchase of your life… Your Home!! This is why CMHC provides products to better maintain your home from day one and in the years to come.

This Homeowner’s Manual is just the beginning. CMHC also provides such products as:

How to Lock out Crime: Protecting Your Home Against BurglaryThis manual promotes a proactive, community based approach to safety. It walks you through home security from A to Z. An excellent source for advice on how to make your home and neighbourhood more secure.Order # 61124 - $9.95.

Home Care: A Guide to Repair and MaintenanceA complete well-illustrated guide to operating your home from housekeeping tips to putting together a basic tool kit, from replacing a light switch to painting and controlling condensation. Ideal for anyone moving into their first home. Order # 61019 - $6.95

FlexHousing: Homes that Adapt to Life’s ChangesFlexHousing involves designing and building living spaces that are adaptable, accessible, affordable and convertible. This magazine is packed with information about Flex features inside and outside the home. Order # 61844 - $9.95

CMHC also has a wide variety of other publications to help you with your new home. All of which can be found in the Before You Renovate catalogue (order # 61001-FREE). These publications have detailed illustrations, helpful planning guides, and provide countless useful tips on the maintenance and care of your new home. CMHC believes in maintaining the quality and care of the home, and wants to be there with you every step of the way for yours.

Please visit the About your House Factsheet series on our website for additional information on maintaining your home. www.cmhc.ca

Call to order:1-800-668-2642

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CONGRATULATIONS ON THE PURCHASE OF YOUR NEW HOME!!

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homeowner’s manual...The new Homeowner’s Manual is your guide to your new home. It tells you what you need to know, from routine upkeep to dealing with emergencies. The CHBA is