Homemade 3 in 1 Multipurpose Workbench: Table Saw, Router … · 2020. 7. 8. · Homemade 3 in 1 Multipurpose Workbench: Table Saw, Router Table and Inverted Jigsaw (Free Plans)

instructables

Homemade 3 in 1 Multipurpose Workbench: Table Saw, Router Table andInverted Jigsaw (Free Plans)

by Creativity Hero

In this Instructable I’m going to show you how I built my 3 in 1 multipurpose workbench.

I’m going to show you how I turned my router into a router table, my circular saw into a table saw and my jigsawinto an inverted jigsaw. Also, I’m going to show you how I collect the dust from these tools. And at last I’ll showyou how I connected and wired everything.

On my website you can find free plans with all the details included.

There you can also find some accessories that I plan to make in some of my next videos like: Table Saw Fence,Crosscut Sled, Miter Gauge, Featherboard and Push Stick. I’ll upload free plans for the accessories when I buildthem.

I dedicated almost a month in designing and building this multipurpose workbench that will ease my futureprojects. So, let’s get started!

Here are the materials I used:

2 sheets of plywood 122 x 244 cm, 21 mm thick (your local hardware store)Full overlay cabinet hinges http://amzn.to/2wWw1lPT-nuts http://amzn.to/2fqvbCSPocket hole screws http://amzn.to/2wYIfp7Caster wheels http://amzn.to/2xLcYdyWood glue http://amzn.to/2fshgMwPaint http://amzn.to/2yHdBmhWalnut wood stain http://amzn.to/2wXruea

Types of tools I used:

Jigsaw http://amzn.to/2xH1Lu9

Homemade 3 in 1 Multipurpose Workbench: Table Saw, Router Table and Inverted Jigsaw (Free Plans): Page 1

Circular saw http://amzn.to/2fRs8nDRouter http://amzn.to/2xAOiChCordless drill http://amzn.to/2frP8MDRandom orbit sander http://amzn.to/2fqHQJ3Pocket hole jig http://amzn.to/2wXsq2390 degree angle clamps http://amzn.to/2sJHkacWire strippers http://amzn.to/2wrmZtbForstner bits http://amzn.to/2wXcg91Rasp http://amzn.to/2xH2fQL

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8TY40BP7poU

Step 1: Measuring and Cutting.

For this project I used 2 sheets of plywood, 122 x 244 cm, 21 mm thick. First I marked all dimensions. I used awooden strip as a fence and clamped it down. Also, I placed the sheets onto 2 tables to prevent the wood fromsplintering.

I cut all the pieces that I need for this project: the top, the bottom, the sides, the inner panels, the doors and theframe.


Step 2: Assembling the Workbench.

I’ll start with the bottom, and I’ll attach the sides to it.

To make the sides perpendicular with the bottom I’musing corner clamps. On the bottom of the table I’mmarking the points where I’ll drive the screws in, andthen I’m drilling some pilot holes in there.

After I made the pilot holes, I decided that it is muchbetter to strengthen the joints with a wood glue, andthen to drive the screws in. I’m using 5 cm longscrews with 4 mm diameter. I repeated this processwith the other two panels which are parallel with thefirst one.

Now I’ll attach the shelves. To do this, I’ll make

pocket holes with a pocket hole jig on each shelf.This is the most appropriate way to give the table acleaner look.

I spent some time measuring and clamping themdown with corner clamps, and then I drove the screwsin. For these joints I’m using 4 cm long screws.

I can move on to attaching the other two panels whichare perpendicular with the other panels that arealready attached to the bottom of the workbench. Onemore thing I need to do is to attach the last shelf withpocket hole screws as well.


Step 3: Turning the Router Into a Router Table.

The first tool that I’m going to attach is the router. Imeasured the size of the opening, found its center,and drew a square on the panel that I need to cut witha jigsaw.

Making the Opening.

Then I drilled out four holes, one in each corner topass the jigsaw blade through. These holes will bestarting points for the jigsaw. While cutting you shouldtry to stay as close to the line as possible.

I’ve cut the opening and used a rasp to remove all theextra wood that I couldn’t cut with the jigsaw.

Next, I need to make a rabbet for the insert that willhold the router from below. I’m drawing the perimeterof the square that I need to cut. To follow the line ofthe perimeter I clamped down a few pieces of scrapwood.

I’m using a straight 12 mm bit to route this sectionout, but I set the depth of the cut on 5 mm, so I needto pass twice on the same surface to get the 10 mmdepth.

Creating the Inserts.

Now I need to make the inserts for the tools. Therabbet that I previously made can fit 10 mm thickinsert. The problem is that I don’t have 10 mm thickplywood, so I need to find a way to solve this issue.

The only reasonable solution was to turn the 21 mmplywood board into 10 mm board with a router. So, Idid it. I removed 11 mm off of the plywood. Although I

was all covered in dust, I finally got 10 mm boardwhich was one of the most important parts of theproject.

The easiest way to get 10 mm thick plywood is, ofcourse, to buy it, but I wasn’t able to do that, so thissolution wasn’t bad at all.

Before cutting the inserts, I sanded the board down tomake it nice and smooth. Then I cut the insert for therouter and used a sandpaper to make round edges.

Attaching the Router onto the Insert.

Next, I removed the base of the router and I used it asa template to mark the mounting holes.

Then I drilled the holes out. First I used a countersinkbit to drill out the holes just enough to get the screwheads to sink below the surface of the wood. That’sbecause I need the insert to be flush with the surfaceof the table. For the router, I made holes with a 4 mmbit, and for the insert I made 6 mm holes. Also, I useda 35 mm Forstner bit to drill out the center so that Ican easily move the router bit up and down.

The last 4 holes I drilled with an 8 mm bit into thecorners of the rabbet. I installed the T-nuts below thesurface, so that I can secure the insert in place. I’mgoing to use a clamp which will pull the T-nut insidethe wood.

And that’s it. I’ll attach the router onto the insert, andthen I’ll attach the insert onto the table.



Step 4: Turning the Circular Saw Into a Table Saw.

Now, I can move on to the second tool, and that’s thecircular saw. Here, I need to pay much more attentionto the squaring. The saw has to be squared up withthe front edge of the workbench, so I need tomeasure twice before cutting.

Making the Opening.

Then again, I drilled 4 holes for the jigsaw blade topass through and made an opening as big as thecircular saw. The rasp corrected all the imperfections.

Then I made a rabbet with the router, and this time Iset the depth of the cut on 10 mm, so that I canremove the extra wood all at once.

Fortunately, now I have 10 mm thick plywood for thisinsert. So, I cut the insert to size, and rounded theedges with a sandpaper.

Mounting the Circular Saw onto the Insert.

To attach the circular saw to the insert I’m going toutilize the existing holes, two in the front, and two inthe back of the saw. You may have to drill new holesin your saw base if you can’t use the existing ones.

I marked the places where I need to drill holes in theinsert.

After that, I drilled all the holes I needed. I’m going touse bolts with 4 and 5 mm diameter, two of each, andalso I’m going to use 4 bolts with 6 mm diameter toattach the insert to the table.

I installed the T-nuts with an F-clamp, one in eachcorner of the opening.

Making Cuts on the Insert.

Now, I’ll place the circular saw below the top and atthis point I need to make 2 cuts, one at a 90 degreeangle, and another at a 45 degree angle. Beforemaking the cut I have the blade guard clamped out ofthe way so that I can see what I’m doing.

So, I’ve turned the circular saw into a table saw.


Step 5: Turning the Jigsaw Into Inverted Jigsaw.

Next, I can focus on the third tool, and that’s thejigsaw.

Making the Opening.

The process is pretty much the same here. In eachcorner I drilled 4 holes and slowly passed the jigsawthrough, following the lines. Again, all theimperfections are corrected with the rasp.

Then, I clamped down 4 pieces of scrap wood, andthey will act as a guide for the router. I routed thesection out with a 12 mm bit.

Attaching the Jigsaw onto the Insert.

After that, I need to attach the jigsaw to the insert.

And to do that I need to drill new holes in my sawbase. I drilled two holes in the front, and two holes inthe back of the jigsaw. To do this I’m using 5 mmmetal drill bit.

Now that I have 4 new holes on the jigsaw, I canmake the appropriate holes on the insert, and on theopening, and to install the T-nuts. Also, I made a 15mm hole with a Forstner bit for the jigsaw blade.

I can now attach the jigsaw onto the insert, secure theinsert onto the workbench and put the blade in place,to check the squaring. You may have a differentjigsaw, so you may need to use a different method toattach it to the workbench.


Step 6: Making Holes for the Caster Wheels.

After I drew some lines, I can mark the points for the screws and drill 4 holes on each corner. I’m using casterwheels with brakes, because this way I can easily move the workbench, and I can secure it in place while I’mworking.


Step 7: Attaching the Top to the Table.

To attach the top to the table I’m making pocket holes on each side for which I’m going to use 32 mm screws.

Then I’m applying a decent amount of wood glue and I’m driving pocket hole screws in each hole.

Step 8: Making a Frame Below the Top.

I apply wood glue on the first stripe, clamp it down and drive screws from the inside. For the rest 3 stripes I drivescrews from below.


Step 9: Preparing the Doors.

Now it is time to work on the doors. I’m marking the points where I’ll place the hinges, and I’m making holes using35 mm Forstner bit. I’m marking the points for the screws, and then I drill the holes.


Step 10: Painting the Workbench.

Before painting, I’m sanding the entire workbench,first with 120, and then with 220 grit sandpaper, andwipe the dust off.

I decided to finish it with a combination of stain andpaint, so I stained the top, the inserts and the doorswith walnut stain, and I painted everything else withwhite paint. What I most like about the stain is that it

emphasizes the edges of the plywood wonderfully.

When it comes to the paint, first I applied one coat ofoil-based primer, left it to dry out, and then sanded itwith 120 grit sandpaper. After that, I applied one coatof white oil-based paint, and left it to dry for at least24 hours before doing anything else.


Step 11: Mounting the Caster Wheels.

I mount the caster wheels on the bottom with 8 mm bolts, and secured them well.

You can see that the bottom isn’t painted, instead I applied transparent finish, because it dries so fast, so I didn’thave to wait another 24 hours for more paint to dry out.


Step 12: Electrical Work.

Now, I can move on to the fun part of this project: Theelectrical work.

So I’ll put 3 switches in front of the workbench whichwill control the three power outlets for each tool,according to the circuit schematic. I’m using 3 core1.5mm cable and I start by cutting it to size andstripping off the wires inside.

I connected the hot and the neutral lines, in my casethe brown and the blue wires, to the switch in a waythat they are connected to each other when theswitch is pressed, and disconnected when the switchis not pressed. I attached the switch boxes to theworkbench using screws, inserted the other end ofthe cables through the holes where my junction boxwill be located and assembled the switches.

On the other side, in the router compartment, Imarked the position where the junction box will beplaced and attached it to the side panel using twoscrews.

In similar way, I connected the three power outletswith the cables appropriately, attached them in eachcompartment and assembled them.

What’s left is to connect the main power to thejunction box. I did that by using 3 m long cable onwhich I attached a power plug and then brought thecable to the junction box. At the end I connected allthe wires together in the junction box according to thecircuit schematic.


Step 13: Dust Collection.

I’ve previously made squares with holes in the middle that will fit all the hoses needed for this workbench. Iscrewed one square above and one below the shelf, and this way I’ll connect the hoses from the tools and thehose from the vacuum cleaner.


Step 14: Attaching the Doors.

I’m using full overlay hinges. Also I made door knobs out of plywood which I mounted with screws. I kind of like theexposed look of the screws.

Mounting the doors on the workbench is easy, you just have to follow one simple rule. I like the mechanism of thehinges, they are easy to install and adjustable, which is pretty good for people who are using them for the firsttime.

Step 15: Putting the Tools in Place and Testing Them.

At the circular saw, instead 4, I put 6 screws to attachthe insert to the top. This is because the surface ofthe insert warped for some reason, which I couldn’tfix, and I thought 2 more screws in the middle willsolve this problem. And I was right.

At this point I’m done with my workbench. I’m verysatisfied with how it turned out. I really like itsappearance and functionality, so I think it was worthevery second I’ve spent on its design and building.

If you have any questions, suggestions and ideasleave them in the comments section below. Also, if

you like this video share it with your friends andsubscribe to my YouTube channel.

YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/CreativityHero

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please help me! I want to get these drawings, I think this is great,

Please tell me how to get the drawings.

Thanks so much for a great presentation.

I am just about to make one but also incorporating a compound mitre saw.


Absolutely beautiful! Thanks for sharing. I made one a similar one few months ago but it is not verygood and so I need to make a new one next year. Like to follow your design!

Great job, congratulations!

Thank you! :)

Great work.

If you cut the tool base first, then use it as a guide (four scraps of wood approach) to cut the rabbitthen cut out the opening for the tool, you may find it quicker and simpler. If you look for RouterTable Inserts, you will find information on this approach. They will provide instructions for settingthe depth of cut for your insert by setting your bit depth equal to the thickness of the insert materialused.

Another thought. Why not simply construct three insert plates of the same dimensions and oneopening? Then, switch out each tool as needed? One tool remains in place and the other two usethe base as a support shelf that slides into supports under the cabinet. One switch, one dustcollection, three tools.

With the skills demonstrated here, I would suspect you could do this 'easily. ;)

Again, most impressive build.

Thank you very much for the suggestions! Well, before I made the design, I thought about makingone opening for all the inserts, but I plan to use these 3 tools frequently, so it would be much easierfor me to use them this way. One opening for 3 tools would mean that I'll need to change the toolsall the time, which is time-consuming.

"need to change the tools all the time, which is time-consuming."

Certainly a consideration.I built a bench that contains a RAS, Mitre Saw and Router - 10 ft long, solid as a rock.

Over the many years, now, I have found the approach 'not all it is cracked up to be.'

My suggestion was directed ate hose considering a similar build as it would be foolish to suggestyou re-build your admirable effort.

Of course, I have a 10" Table Saw, 14" Band Saw, two other Mitre Saws and two small (portable)'table' saws as well as a jig/sabre saw.

One trick to using the sabre saw 'upside down' is to clamp it in a vise using some compressiblematerial on each side to conform to the odd shape of the jig/saber saw - works in a pinch!

Thank you very much for all the information, I really appreciate it!


I need this in my life! Thanks so much for the detailed instructions/tutorial.

Thanks! I'm glad you like it! :)

Great job!

Your project turned out fantastic. One question in your youtube video (approx. 35 seconds in), whatmodeling software do you use?

Thank you in advance

Thanks you very much! I use Solidworks. :)

GENIUS!!...

Thanks! :)

I loved the instructions and pictures. Nice project and excellent documentation!

I plan to build something similar. Your project gave me few ideas. Thanks for sharing your work.

Thank you so much! I'm glad you like it! :)

Wow! This is a REALLY well done tutorial! This is a project I've been thinking about for a while andnow I have this great instructable to follow. Thanks!

Thanks a lot! :)

Blade Guard(s)?

I'll buy one very soon. I know how dangerous working without blade guard could be. Thank you forreminding me. :)

Sorry for the pretty noobish question but... How did you make the cuts for the saw blade? I see oneis at 90° and the other at 45°, but how did physically make them? Maybe the 90° is easy, sinceyou just have to try and follow the screws, but the 45° is a bit trickier for me


You can see how I did that in the video. Before I made these cuts I put the saw below the table andsecured it on the insert with bolts. Then it was very easy to make the cuts. I just needed to makeadjustments below the table.

You are extremely gifted & talented! I am very impressed W/ all of your details and designconcepts. Well done! Thank you for sharing your talents W/ us. ;>)

Thank you very much! I'm happy to hear that! :)

excellent . Thanks for sharing such detailed video and as a bonus, free plans as well.

Thank you so much! :)

thanks for a beautiful instructable . i dont know when i am going to do it, but even if i do it , i want tothank you in advance .....

You're welcome! I'm glad you like it! :)

Very cool. I need one of these in my shop. It would greatly simplify things.

Thank you very much. That was my purpose of building it - to simplify things. I'm very excited touse it in my future projects! :)

this is an excellent project-just out of interest from an electrical point of view can i ask why youused the switches to break the negative side rather than the positive side to the sockets ?

please be careful using this, I'm reminded of the joke about the wood shop teacher who neededtwo hands to say he had been doing this for 5 years.

I really like this project (and combination workbenches like this in general). It was written anddocummented really well.

One thing I noticed is that there is no riving knife attached to the saw. Not sure if that saw modeldoesn't feature one but using the saw without one greatly increases the risk of kickback andaccidents. I think that is something you should look into.

Have a great time!

Thank you for your suggestion. My saw doesn't have a riving knife, but I'll definitely buy one. Now Ineed to make some accessories for this workbench, and once I'm done, I'll buy everything I needto reduce the risk of accidents and kickbacks. I'm glad you like this project! :)


Awesome I look forward to see what addons you come up with for your bench!

Very nice Instructable. Nice work!

Thank you so much! :)


Documents

Homemade 3 in 1 Multipurpose Workbench: Table Saw, Router … · 2020. 7. 8. · Homemade 3 in 1 Multipurpose Workbench: Table Saw, Router Table and Inverted Jigsaw (Free Plans)