Home-Mode Self Boilers

One way to avoid the expense of installing a com-mercial self-bailer is to rig your own, using standardpipe and pipe fittings. For a simple bailer, bore a holethrough the bottom at the point of the bilge that's lowestwhen the boat is underway. Over the hole mount astandard pipe floor flange in bedding compound on theinner side of the bilge planking. A standard pipe plugscrewed in finger tight will prevent a reverse flow ofwater into the hull when the boat is not under way(Fis. 166).

Through the bottom hole, thread a standard pipestreet ell with the open end pointing aft. Suction createdby the boat when it's moving at speeds above 5 mphwill draw out bilge water. If the bottom planking is nottoo thick, this ell can be screwed directly into the insidepipe flange. With this rig, it's important to rememberto replace the pipe plug when the boat is stopped.

You can make a more sophisticated bailJiby elimi-nating the inside pipe plug and substituting a verticalpipe nipple that will rise 4'to 6" above the static waterline (Fig. 166, bottom). Then, return this gooseneckvia two pipe elbows and nipples, so the open end isaboul Vq" above the lowest part of the bilge when theboat is under way.

To prevent reverse siphon action while the boat isdocked or anchored, drill a r/16,, bleeder hole in theupper side of the horizontal nipple at the highest pointin the gooseneck. This will permit water to drain to theoutside water level.

When selecting the length for the vertical nipple abovethe pipe flange, be sure to consider your boai's water-line when a full load is aboard, because the nippleshould reach 4" to 61' above the waterline at maximumdraft.

Because of the bleeder hole and the extra height ofthis rig, you'll need a speed of at least 10 mph to ireatethe siphoning action, The action is completely auto-matic, however, and you can locate the rig in any con-venient spot as long as the intake reaches into the lowestpart of the bilge.

Select piping in accordance with your location, andthe size of your boat. Galvanized pipe is suitable forfresh water; copper pipe should be used in salt water.l-Jse Vz" pipe for boats in the 16, to 20, range, and3/+" at larger for cruisers.

Home-Mqde Jomb Cleot

Although most deck hardware is out of the do-it-yourself category, John F. Dillon shows how a simplejamb cleat can be cut from a suitable chunk of teak.

Fig. 167 shows the cleat laid out on a block of scrapteak. The size of the cleat will depend on what youneed, of course, but the angle of rise is important, andshould be no more than 15 degrees. Cut out the cleatwith a saber saw. Round off all edges with a wood rasp,sand smooth, and drill for the mounting bolts as shownin Fig. 168. Be sure to countersink for the bolt heads.

WATER LEVEL

t4j' aleeoen xoue

WATER LEVEL

Li'to34'.ABOVEBILGE

STANDAEID STREET ELTHREADED INTOBOTTOM PLANKING

WATER LEVEL

BOTTOM

STANDARD STREET ELTHREADED INTOBOTTOM PLANKING

Fis. 165

Fis. 167

Fig. t68