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~ ~I No. 139 Jbn< "39
HOME CLOTHES CLUBFirst Year
-d-I-I CLUB CLOTHING
1{oll taulL Extension Service in Agriculture uucl Home Ec.ollomie-s. J. C. Taylor, director. Montana State 'Oollege andUnitel} States Departll1e-nt of Agriculture, Coopel'ating. }..ct's
of Congress May 8 and ,June 30, 1914
4-H CLOTHING CLUB REQUIREMENTS
Home Clothes Club-First Year
Construction
Hand towelTea towel aI' pot holderDarn a pair of stockingsKitchen apron or a shnple cotton
dress
Other Pllases
Personal appearanceCOTrect shoes and hose
,Cure of clothingClothing judgingRecol'd keellillg
School Clothes Clu'b-Second Year
Construction
School dress of washable materialSlip and one other undel'garmelltHemmed patch(Pajamas-may be mad'e if desired)
Other Phases
Material selectionDesign anc} calm'Pattel'l1s al1d alterationsClothing account keepingClothing judgingDemons'tration teamsRecord keeping
Special Occasion Clothes Club-Third Year
Oonstruction
Afternoon 01' informal party dressTwo appropriate undergarmentsOne' accessory
Other Phases
Selection of access'oriesPressingDressing for the oce-asionCIDthing accountsClothing judgingDemonstration teamsRccon} li:ecping
Wardrobe Club-Fourth Year
Construction
EnseulJblc of at least foul' articlesfor street, school, travel, sports,or social wear
Other Phases
Olothing inventoryPersonality studyPlan wardrobe for yenrOlothing accountsBuying'l'ailol"ing and finishing methodsClothing judgingDemonstration teamsRecorll keeping'
HOME CLOTHES CLUBFIRST YEAR 4-H CLUB CLOTHING
By Myrtle G. Euren, Assistant State 4-H Club Leader'"
Membership
Anyone ten years of age or over who is interestcd in carrying the wodeto completion, may become 'a member of the Homc Clothcs Glub.
Purpose
The Home Clothes Club is planned f01' the purpose of helping girls:1. To appreciate the value of being well dres-sed.2. To understand that simplicity, modesty, comfort, suitability, and neat
ness are essentials of attmctive clothing.3. To gain a WOl'king knowledge of simple hancl and nlachine sewing,
and the propel' use of sewing equipment.4. Practice good habits of -eleanliness.5. To properly cllre for their eJ(}thing.G. To recognize high quality garments through practie-e in clothing judg
ing.7. '1'0 be good citizens and sound leaders-.
Requirements of Home Clothes Club
Stucly, discuss, or demons-tratc the following:1. Personal appearance.2. Correct shoes and hose.3. Cars of clothing.4. iSelection of materials, designs, and color.Judge each group of articles as thcy arceompletec1, using score cards.1\i'akc the follOWing.1. A hand towel.2. A tea towel or P(}t hoMer.3. Darn a pair (}f st(}ekinge.4. Kitchen apron, or a simplc cotton dI'ess.Attend club meetings l:egulal'ly, and participate in club activities.Keep a record and write a st(}ry, and submit them to the C(}uuty
Exte11sion Agent, through the local leader, at the complcti(}ll of the project.
*Approved- by Joseplline Pollock, Extension Ciotllil1g Specialist.The Handbook for Montaua 4-H Clothing Club girls, which is supplied to evel'Y
('lotJllng club leader and first ~'e(lr clothing club mcmber, ('outaius detailed inforwation on clothing construction, :l.lld should be referred to frequently.
4 MONTANA EXTENSION SERVICE
Sewing Equipment
A elub mcmber must supply herself with the l'ight equipment befol'eshe can ,begin the work,
She will need the following:1. A box in which to keel) sewing materials and .equipment,2. Peneil.3. Package of needles, sl1arps Or Crewel 5-10.4. A thimble that fits.5. Sharp adssol'S,6. Tape measure.7. White thread-nos. 50 and 70.
Sewing Suggestions
1. liave llands and nails clean.2. Weal' clean gamlCnts, so they will not soil your work3. Sit ercet anel have a gooel light (coming over left shoulder i{ pos
sible).4. Study your tape line so that you will kllow the marks that stand
fOl' % inch, V:J incl!, and 1 inch.5. In threading a needle, always break or cut the threacl fl'om the spool.
Do not eut witll teeth.6. Usc a short thread.7. Leul'1l to follow directions.8. Cut material accurately. If material does llot foW evenly, J.l'U1I from
opposite eOl'ners until material is stl·aight.
The Sewing Machine
Learn how to use the sewing machine before you try to sew.familial' with the diff'erent parts, and try stitching on paper,machine unthreaded, be-fore you begin stitching 011 materials.
A few things you should know about the sewing machine:
Becomewith the
Parts Below the Ta.ble1. Treadle.2. Connecting rod.3. Large wheel.
Parts Above the Table1. liead-part above table containing stitcll mechanism.2. Arm-curved pal't of heall containing the meellaniSlll for cIdving the
needle and handling uppel' threacl.3. Balance wheel-the wheel at the right of the head-driven by the belt.4. Bobbin windel'-mechanism for winding bobbins.5. Stitch regulator-the parts which control the length of the s,titch.6. Upper tellsion-mealls for COllt!'olIing the delivery of the upper thread
fl'om spool.
FIRST YEAR CLUB OLOTHING 5
7. 1"ower tension-the spring or the shuttle or ,bobbin case which controlsthe delivery of thread from the bobbin.
8, Needlc bar-the vertical bar to which the needle is attached andwhich carries the upper thread down through the fabric at each stitch,
9, Presser bar-the vertical bur to which the pressel' foot is attaehed.10, Feed dog-the toothed part which projects upwarcl through slats,
carrying the fabric from the operator at each stitch.11. Shuttle-the container in which the ,bobbin is placed.12. Bobbin-the metal spool on which thread is' wound to furnish the
lower thread supply.
Things to Practice
1. Learn to tread (}venly. (This can be prncticed before threading ma·chine. If an electrical machine is used learn to control the motion).
2. Leal'n to wiucl bobbin.3. Learn to thread macllinc.4. PI'actice stitching on papcr (without threucl). Draw lines with a
ruler and stitch on the line.
Some Points to Be Careful About
1. Both threads must be on top ,before beginlling to stitch.2. Do llot pull or push material when stitching.3. To turn corners squal'ely, have needle clown in doth, raise pl'esser foot
ancl turn the work, put presser foot down and continue.
The Well Dressed Girl
The girl who is really well dressed must:1. 'Wear clothing that is simple and clean, suitable for the occasion, be-
coming to her type,comfortable, alld within her means.2. Be clean about her person.3, Be well groomed.4. I-Iave goocl posture.5. Have a happy, pleasant personality, whiilh i~ a result of good health
and attitude.
Personal Cleanliness
Nothing will acld more to the ilhanll and attractiveness of a girl than ac,lean body. Baths slwuld be taken frequentls--once a clay if possible. Ifthis is not possible, lIot less than twice a week.
All clothing must ,be clean aud fresh. Change undergarments oftenE.'llough s'o that there is no perspiration 01' body odor from them. Any outergal'ment which shows mUI'ks of perspiration should be washeel or eleaneclbefOl'c weal'ing again. Your clothing should frequently be hUllgon the lineto air, Ohange your stockings daily-it lengthens the life of the stocking'S,-and makes you more comfortable. If your feet perspire, be sure yOll changeyour stockiugs often, and wash them as s'oon as you take them off, asperspiration rots tho fiber.
MONTANA EXTENSION SERVICE
Careinl Grooming
Good grooming includes the care of the skin, hail', nails, 1U1(] teeth.
IN WHAT CONDITION IS YOUR SKIN~ A good, dear, healthy skinis not only 'I skin deep. >J It is a result of the fool] you eat, the sleep youget, the watex you drink, exercise and fxesh air you get, and the caxe yougive your skin.
Keep your skin clean. Wash it with mild soap and warm water. Thenrinse it with co1<] water, because tlie warm water opens the pores, and theco1<1 water closes them. If ·cosmetics of any kind have been usee], co~d
Cl'eam should ,be l'ubbed in, wOl'lcing upward. Then remove the cream with n.cloth.
Pimples al'e usually duo eithox t.o lack of cleanliness 01' to the eatingof too many sweets. Watch your diet ani! see if you are eating too muchrich food as candy, cake, alHl pastI'y. Also, be sure that your eliminationsare regular.
Sufficient sleep is necessary to a goo(1 skin. Ten and eleven hourswith a goO(] supply of fresh air for a growing boy 01' girl are necessaryfO!' a clear, llealthy complexion.
The inside of the bo(]y must be wasllecl as well as the outside. By (lrinking several glass·es of watex a clay, you will aiel in eliminating waste materialsfrom the body.
Sleep with your windows open, and get sallie active exercise in the fresha \1' each day. Outdoor activities stimulate circulation, an(] help to makethe skin rosy and elear.
IS YOUR HAIR SOFT AND GLOSSyq Oily, lifeless looking hair is.cCl·tainly not becoming to anyone. Too many people expect the hair to takecare of itself, and consequently neglect bl'ings about a poor condition. Yourgeneral health also affects the hair-lack of sleep, internal clis'Ordel's, worry,etc" will make the hair very ullattI'active. A few genel'al rules are:
1. Bl',ush hail' each night with a stiff bl'us,h to stimulate circulation an<1l' emove dil't ant] c1ust.
2. Wash hair every week or two, or as often as it ·becomes dirty.3. If tIle mild soap 'used is cut into small pieces and put into a pan
with llOt water 'Rud cooke(1 until c1issolvcd it is much easier to use asa sllampoo.
4. Hair shoul(1 be dllsed several times, the last rinse being eol(], to stim·ulate circulation and close the pores.
5. Keep combs' and brushes clean.6. Frequcnt and regular massages give life to the hair.
ARE YOUR NAILS AND HANDS WELL KEPTg You will want beauti·ful IHlllds, especially WhCll you beeomq older. And to have pretty hancls youmust begin taking care of them now. Housework an(1 dishwashing clo no tkeel) you from having well·kept halHIs. III drying the hancls push the cuticlehack with a towel. A little hand lption applied after dxyillg keeps the handsmoist and smooth.
FIRST YBAlt UIrUB CLOTHING 7
1. Do not cut your nails-filc thcm.2. Pile to 'It roulHletl shape.3. Scrub nails well with It brush.4. Clean them often.G. Do not eut the cuticle.G. Use a buffer or the palm of the hand to polish the nails.7. If you hnYQ hungl1nils, 01' brittl<l nails, use vaseline· 01' olive oil on
them at lligllt.S. Do not bite your nuils-it spoils the shape of your. fingers, ruins
your nails, and is very unsightly. If you get hltO the habit, it willbe hard for you to stop.
DO:8S YOUR Slv[lTJE SHOW 'l'EE'rII IN GOOD CONDITION~ Teethkept healthy by enrly care may insur<l for you good looks, good health,efficiency, comfort and suving of mOlloy.
If th<l teeth are llOt ill conc1ition to grinc1 the food thorougllly beforo itpusses into tho stOlllllch, tho stomaeh will 'bocome overworked.
If the teeth are dirty, the £00(1 will rub off somc of the lUrt and eanyit to the 110dr. Dccayed teeth ma,}' cause hoadaches, absoesscs, boils, nerYousness, ncuralgia, rheumatislll, etc.. So start now to l_cep your teeth ingooe1 conc1ition.
Usc a smull toothbrush. Rinse it in clean water after you use it, aJlU
lllacc it whero the uil' anel sunshine reach it. If the bristles begin to COllO
out, get a now one, for the 100so bristles Illay get UJ1l1er gU1llS ll.1lcl causepain.
No mntter what kina of teeth yon haye, you ('tUI improve thcm by-1. Daily brushing.2. Going to tho dentist OileD or twice a year to check on con(lition of
your mouth.3. Eating bone·onihling roods' (thosc containing the minel'al, calcium).
Posture
Postul'e means the cUl'l'iage of the botly in st:mlling, walJdng, sitting, IUlII
lying.A girl may be at.tractively l1rossel1, llUt unless SIlO cturies ]lersc]f well
she will never he consiaorec1 well drossed. Posture affeds our health andefficiency; it showS' our mental attituele, and tho state of our health; ]leop!ejunge our ability and cnergy by 0111' posturo.
A person should St-nll(] as tall as 11ossible, with heal] up, chin in, shoul«lel'ssquared evcll1J', ehest out, alldolllcn in, knces straight, arms hanging nntural.ly,und feet 110inte~1 straight aheuel, not toeing out. Learn to stand on two feet.Y(m make a bettel' impress·ioll on tllc people a'bout you, and you kcep thcorgans of tllO body in ('orrcd position. "Walk with an easy, graceful swing.Do llOt stride, trip nlong, shuffle, amhlc, or the mally' other ungl'llceful waysof gctting arou1lCl. Learn to walk with case . unit graeo. You mUHt cxerc.iilclllHl thiuk gooel posture'.
Since ouc-third of your tilllO is spent in hed youI' slc(~]1il1g posturo hliB
great influence all your posture during the uny. Huge pillows Fi·houltl not
:MON'l'ANA EX'rENRll)?\ SEHYlOl~
lIe usC\d, ullll t:hc I)(HI must lie firm lyith lin sag"gillg ill the mitltllt'. Sleep.iug Oll the had, and using III) pillows is n gontl slt'eping positioll.
Poor 1l0sttll'C 1;(1l'OWS all the intl!rllal organs \lnt of their nutnral position,:lntl they t'all lIOt possihly dn tht'irwol'k !ll'O[l('l'!y.
Think Rigli t
To hayo :I stl'ong el(~:m milltl ~'ou lllllst hllY(' a strollg <o]t'un ,holl.\·. Thebody is the house we liyc in, thl!l't!fon', \\'\1 must t:d,e t',are to I,,'ep thatllOllS(' ell'all aJlll sanil:try, thinking (·,h~an. happy thoughts, A ('\1(1\'l'flll, 1'1(~asant
nttiltllle is the ht'st (Illillity you ('1m lIOSSCSS, antI til(' tlIll' ,,"hil'!l lIl:t1ws ~'()u
attradiYLJ to oth\'1' pl'ople.
Hand Towel
JA'nrn to se]ed Y0ll!' own lIIatt·rials. i\ratl.'ri:ds shouhl Ill' nhS(lr\ll'llt, t'asilyIttundct'ed, nud soft.
Points to Emillmadze
1. Selectioll nf suitll1l1(~ IIIlllt'rinl fOl' u hunl! t01\'('!.2, Neat, iUC<lUllpil'llOlIS IlIl1lll hemming.~, ]i]v('n, \\'oll turnl'll hom wil:h stri[lPs nn,l ('hl'Io],S (if tllI'l'(' :11'1' :IllY)
~1'Cllly ll1atcheil.,f, Bulls of hellls ~hould he fillishi'll with o1'l'l'hanl1 stitch.
Material
'l'hl'oo·fourths ynrd of an a!Jsol'1.H'U(; qualit~· of mutorial whid. l:lunilC'l'seasily. SuggesttHl matedals: hut'1, or ('rash (pr"rl'l'ahl)" Ill' lint'n 01' partlinon, as this has hetter nllSOrlJl'lIt anti lanlltll'l'ing lpmlit.ies) (11' linl'n tOll'l'liug.
Making
1. Stmightoll 1'1111s h~' ,Ir:l\\'ing a thl'I':It] ant] trimming UlIl'n'n l'Ulls hythis cll'nwn thrp;lll,
2, 'l'Ul'll NIges 1/1 iJll'h aw] h:lstl'.:1, 'l'UL'It a I\(' Ill, in 11l'OlHlJ't.ion to tll(! sizer Ill' 111,,\ to\\'"l, nnll haste.4, Hem with plain or lHIJIl!ry 1ll'Inllling sUh'h,(It is sugg('stl'tl tliat. wh('l1 tht· lllw('ls al'l! (~\lllIl'!I'h'll, tht' ('lull IlIl'mht'rs
jnilgn tll(!1ll ac,(:ol'lling to tho ~1'OI'l' 1';1\"] (Ill l'agl' in lI\'<lI'\, t'o illlPI'lI\'I' thequality IIC work in tho lInxt mtil'1l! to hi' lII:11lt').
Tea Towel
If fluur s:td"\ al'O uscll, 11(\ 8nl'l' tlll'y :11',\ lI'o!l I'li!al\hell. To Illt~rll'lI: SlIaktowd ill warm lWI'o8elHi 8lHlI'SIIl!S. Huh until ('0]01' disrqlpl':ll'S. Bllil in suds,:Lull I'Xl'0SIl to the SUlI /'01' sl'\'('ral lIa~'s, Jj' tlil'n' is :Illy tr:lt'l' \II' t·t<llll' Idt,a hl<':Ll'h may lie 'Ust~l1.
Points to Emphasize
1. Straight, eYllll lltiteliillg' (:lIl,iu8t Jl~ngtli 01' sl itl'h so that it Jl'oks 1\'(·11),2. StHeh 1m 1'I'I'y ('llgl.' of IW11I.
FIRST YEAR CLUB OLOTHING
:M:aterialA bleRChed flour sack about 1 yare1 square, 01' linen tea toweling.
:M:aking1. Stmighten edges by drawing threads, anel trim uneven edges ,by this
thread.2. Turn edges' lh inch and crea8e.3. Turn an even ~ inch hem. Baste.4. Stitch straight on very inside of folded hem.5. Finish ends securely by stitching back one inch and tying threads.6. Do not hem selvages.7. If all sides must be hemmed, tum corners squarely, and mul{e them
uniform.
Pot Holder
Pot holders are a kitchen necessity. Many people do not have enoughpot hoMers conveniently placed and S'O use tea towelS' instead for lifting hotpans. 'Ehis is a poor practice.
Pot holders should be heavy enough and large enough to be useful, butnot stiff. They slwu!d be laundered often so that they arc fl'csh and clean.They should be of colors which harmonize with the kitchen, and which add a-bright cheel'ful spot to the room. Square or round holders lllay be 'made, butthey should always be very plain.Points to Emphasize
1. ,soft, but dumble and attractive materialS'.2. Heavy enougll to be u.scful, but not stiff.3. Even, straight, machine stitching.4. Neat loop, seeUl'ely fnstene<l.
Matel'ialGingham, percale, muslin, 01' some other easily lmmdcred lllp.terial nUlY
lJ (\ used for outside of holder.Ollting flannel 01' pieces oJ: all old eotton blanket 01' towel may be used
for padl1ing.'rape, l'ings, 01' IJicces from old supporters may 'bc used £01' hanging the
holder. The metal rings l1ro Ila11Cly in hanging up the holder ,but should not be]Jut through a wringer.
A piecc> of material 7x13 inches makes a convenient sized holder, Apiece of palllling Gx12 inchcs may he used. About 4 inches of tn-pe isneelleel for l1 1001).
Making1. Lay padding on outs:de material al1lI baste thl'ough the ccnter.2. Turn % inch on the silles and cndS of outside material.8. Fole1 across lllaking a six inch square.4. Bastc around edges uncI ba,ste with long ujagonal stitches in center.5, Stitch euges an machine inserting tape (if used) in one cornel' befol'e
stitching.
10 MONTANA EXTENSION SERVICE
G. The tape shoud be folded with the two edges "just meating, forming atriangle at top. ,Stitch across top to llOld loop in position.
7. If ring is used, attach firmly with over and oval' stitch, 01' buttonhole stitch.
8. Stitch holc1er cUagonally, or in pattol'l1 desirecl, to holc1 pacMing iII
place.
Points1.
Making
1.2.
Darning
Tho diamolHl' shaped darn is recommendad, because the strain of thedarn does not come on anyone thraacl of tha hose. Get into tha habit ofc1arhing ho~es when they fhst appear, and are small and easy to cIarll.
t'o Be EmphasizedDarning cotton of l'igllt weigh.t and color for stoeking.
2. Re:nforceemnt of worn mea arouncl hole.3. Smooth, close, even weaving.4. Stoelting and dam must not be
stl·otched.5. Da1'll must he amooth and flat.
Material
A pail' of stoekhlgs with holesc(wsed ,by actual weal'; darnel'; needlejust heavy onough to calTY the thread;(laming cottOll that matches stockings,'both in color and weight.
'rum stocking l'igllt sicle ant.Place darner inside and smoothstocking ovm' it.
3. Trim off ragged edges with scissors.4, Put iri basting stitch 'with colored threacl in form of a diamond shape
as a guide line £01' yoU!' work. (See Handbook £01' Montalla ClothingClub' Girls).
Apron
Every club girl helps at home and will nee<l all apron. Sillce it isassumed that girls taking first y'ear clothing have not sewed to any extent,it is s'l1ggeste(1 that a very simpl13 type of apron be made.
Points, to Bmphaslze1. Selection of attractive materials that will launder well.2. Ii' bias is used as a finis11, have it stitched on evenly and stmight.:3. Pockets placed so that lengthwise thread of pocket coineides, with
lengthwise tlll'eall of apron; poclwts stiklled ;back at top, witl\ tl,jangnlar stitching.
Jt'ms'r YEAR CLUB OLOTHING 11
4. Straps attached in a secure and ncat manuel'.5. All threads tied.6. S~raigllt machine stitching, Witll length of stitch adjusted properly.
Ma,teria,l
A cotton matel'ial of good laundering qualities, such as ligllt figUl'eclpercale, muslin, gingham, pl'irits; or other similar matel'ials is suitable.Materials should' be plain, 01' of small is,mple design, in light becoming colors.Do not select dark shades for your apron. The old idea of selecting colorsthat do "not show the soil" is not in accord with good habits of cleanlinessand neatness, and also, dark COlOl'S are not cheerful and attractive. Thoamount of material required depends upon the width of material uBed ancldesign of the apron. To estimate the amount when 36 indl material is used,measure the finished length of the apron from cllest to lower edge of dres's.To this acM (j to 7 inches fOl' hcms, straightening of nUl,terial, and shrhl1mge.
Pattern
Usc any simple pattcnl which clocs not have straps ]lulling on tho nockor sUcling off the shouldcrs, ana is comfor~alJlc when stooping.
Making
Apron Pocket
<\1,
I II I
\ '\ J
\', " , /
......... _-~
1. Folcl matorial ca1'e-fully so thnt tho ccnter folcl is cx:wtly on a thrC':tcl.2, 'rest pattern fOl' size and altor accordingly.3. Lay all pieces of pattern on materi.nl, and pin before cutting,4. Mark perforations anci notches with chalk or thre3.cl,5. Out-following lines of pattern.6, Baste all ,seams first.7. The outer edges may' be finished with a narrow (1;~ to 1,4 incli) hClll;
they may be faced ai' boundwith bias tape. If bias isused, it must harmonize withthe material.Stitch poelmt around edge totop; turn and stitch a scantlft ineh toward center; turnand stitch ,diagonally about 1ineh joining the other stit(\h-ing.Straps may be macle of rnateriHl lilw the apron, or of cotton tape, depending UpOll thellcsign of the apron. Ii; is well~o fold the straps into the hemof the aproll and baste. 'l'llCllstitch straps in with tIle hem,Fasten them secUl'ely nucl noatIy.
9.
8.
12 MONTANA EXTENSION SERVlGE
Cotton Dress
This dresH should ,be very simple, 'made for home wear, or perhaps forschool.
Material and designs should be selected aeeording to the type of theone who is to weal' the ·dress.
'rhe short plump girl looks bes,t in plain materials, 01' materials with nar-row stripes or smaH designs. She should avoid plaids ancI large figuredmaterials, as they appear to increase her ,size; also avoid circular designs.
Select becoming colors. Try vl1riouscblors ncxt to your f'ace, and decielewhich oncs make yrou look your bcst. Good colors ara the one& that makcyour skin more clear, and intensify the color of your hair and eycs.
Points to' Emphasize
1. Selectiollof attractive alleI sel'viceable ,vashable material suitablo fora sim.ple sloeveless dress.
2. Design of dross becoming to the one fm' whom it is' made.3. Well constructed seams anel neat finishes.4. French or flat open seams lilay be used, deponding upon the type of
material used, and the design of the dress.5. The hem is nearly always put ll,l by hand. Tul'll edge % inch. Stitch
by machinc, then turn hem width cleshed and heUl by hal1(1.
Material
Select a. washable matel'ial such as Iigllt figmed pel'cale, gingham, cottonbroadcloth, Inelianhel1.(l, or other similur t.YlICS, that fire suit.ahle to you incolor and elesign, ani! that will Iaundel' woll.
PatteI'll
A silnplo elesign, suitable for a cotton ell-ess, without set-in sleeves. Stuelyyour own figll1'c, amI deciele what design of ell'ess is most becoming to you.If you are tall aneI thin, a,void a straight line dross'. The sllort plump girlwill want a c1J'ess that gives the feeling of height alld slenderness. Fullnessmay bc ac1elod by mea.ns of pleats, but tIle plump ghlshould avoid gathers,Neck lines aro important. Broael, s'quare, ana rounel necks can be wom hypeop~o who have long, thin faces. V neck lines allcl oval oncs m'c 1Il0st
. hecoming to the square or rounel f'a·ce, 'Gil'ls who arc neithor tall ancl thin, orshol't and plump, (10 not have as difficult a problem in .solec,tiIlg a pattrl'll,Try always to selec.t a pattcl'n which will emphasizlJ your good points.
Making1. Fold tIle material enrefully so tllat the fol<1 is on a thread of the
material.2. 'l'est the pattern l)y pinning the pm·ts togethor anfI slipping it 011,
Alter if necessary.3. Lay all pattern pieces all the material and pin before doing illlY cut·
ting.4. Mark llotches' and perfomtions with chalk or thread.5. Cnt with long, even stroke.
FIRS'l' YEAR. CLUB CLOTHING 13
6. Mark the centcr front and center back lines with basting thread.1. Baste the shoulder seams, easing the back on to the front. Then
baste the underarm seams.8. Try the elress on and" take up" 01' "let out" seams as needed.9. French 01' flat open seam 1U3.y be used, Have no "whiskel's" and
have seams same width throughout. (See Handbook for MontanaClothing Club Girls).
10. 'rhe hem is nearly always put in by hand. (See" Points to Emphasize,' ')
In taking hem lengths, stand straight with feet flat on the flo01'. Letsomeono measure with a yard stick 01' other stick tho distance you wish thedress from the floor. Place pins horizontally at this place, and tum thel1Clffi on this line, Cut a marker of cardboard the desired width of hom(preferably at least 3 inches) anel uso a gauge in turning 110m. Hem lengthsmust bo taken from tho floor up, to give a straight hem line, since shouldersmight not be even, or one hip might be l:U'ger than the other. Make 14 inehturn. Baste down and stitch on machine. Tul'll desired depth of 110m, bastennel hane] hem.
Shoes and Hose for the Well Dressed Girl
The selection of becoming and appropriate s·hoes ane] stockings are asmuch a part of a girl's 4-H club program as the making of an attractivedress. They lllust correspond to her generill costume.
StockingsThe type of stockblg worn should 'be in ]lllrmony with the costullle.
Serviceable garments, such as a girl should weal' to school, require lisle,cotton or heavy silk stockingI' of suitable weight.
For her dress-up gal'ments, a gooel gl'llde of silk hOse is suitable, Somcgirls have the idea that very sheer hose Ilrc so much "fun" to weal', butthe illOl'C appropriate hose al'e cotton, lisle, and heavy silk and l·ayon. Ifthey are selected carefully, they are bettor looking than the very sheervariety, Girls who weal' heavy win tor coats and thin, s·leezy stockings ona cold winter e~ay do not show good j.udgment,
Stockings should harmonize in color .as nearly as possible with the gal'ments with which they arc worn, and also with the shoes.
Tho size of stockings should be selected carefully. They should be long(mough to permit freedom of the toes-but not so long that they wrinlde inthe shoe. If holes appellr quickly in the toe of a stocking, it may be ::tnindication that the stocking is too short. Short stockings sometimes causebunions and crooked toes, and should never be worn.
Stockings should be well cared for, 01' they becollle an expensive itemof clothing.
1, Menel thin allll worn places as soon liS they appCllr.2. Sew up l'U1111crs immcdi.ately.3. Wash new st.ocldngs 'befol'e they are worn.4. Wash stockings cvery time thcy me worn.
MON'rANA EXTENSION SERVICE
5. Keep inside of shoos and SUppoI'tcr fnstenel's smooth.6. In lJUtting on stockings be careful that you do not cause rUllS in thelll.7, After waslling stockings, see if they need 1l1cndhIg. If stockings are
ready for woar, roll them Ull ncatly anc} p,ut away.
Putting Your Bel'lt Foot ForwardDo you walle or do you hobble~ YOUI' fcet are tho foundatioll of youI'
bolly and c}eserve the 'best treatment you can give them. Do you swingalong gmcefully, toes straight ahead, or do you tUl'll youI' toes out alId walkon the insido of y'OlI1' feet to avoid c}iscomfort1 Standing 01' walking withtoes turned out is unnatural, very harmitll to tho feet and legs, and giycsone an nwlnvm'd appearance.
COl1sbuetion of foot. The foot has 26 bones, connected by ligaments,and operatcc} by many muscles anc} nerves'.
There are four aI'chos in the foot-1. The long arch at inside of foot from heel to too.2. Front arcll, exteuding across ,ball of foot.3. A1'Ch at outsiela of foot from heel to base of small toe.4. Arch across midclla of foot under the instep.Through missuso of the foot, lack of exercise of the leg muscles, weal'ing
of badly elesigned or ill-fitting shoes', the arches may bcgin to sag and thobones slip out of place.
Distress is boune} to follow. Pains causecl by the feet muy exteucl tovarious pads of the body, and cause headaches, backaches, continued fatigue,poor ci.rculation, indigestion, bad nerves, rheumatism, etc,
1. Strong, healthy arches 2. Flat foot-weak archcs
What is your footprint like1Sincc flattened m'ches cause so llluch foot trouhle, each person shou1cl
tako an imprhlt of his foot. To do this, use large pi.ece of blottel', 01'
absorbcnt paper. Dip tIle foot in watcr uncI place on tho blottcr. Bcfol'c itc1r:es, (haw arouucl the impI'int with a pencil. If it looks more liko Illustration 2, you lllust do something to correct the flattencd condition of the
FIRS'!' YEAR CLUD CLOTHING 15
long arch. If it is like Illustration 1, with a deep indentation, you areassured that the al'ches are in gooc1 condition.
Wllat Kind of Shoes. Do You Wear?
For correct developmellt of the root:1. Shoes should be designed so that the inlier edge of sole is straight.
,Vheu the inner edge curves, it cl'owds the toes.2, Weal' a sole which is flat or slightly l'01111ded up in the middle, to
hold the al'ch ·up. A sole which rounds down under the ball of thefoot and bends up at the side-a concave solc-pel'mits the frontarch to chop.
3. Shoes shouici follow the natural line of the foot.4. Shoes should uot be too flexible or too thin-solecl If we coulcl wall,
only on soft:, springy earth as the Indian clid, shod ill soft moccasins,we should have no arch troubles. But walking 011 ha.rd pavements, as1Il0st of us do, we must cushion our feet against the g·hock of eachstep. That is why a moderately heavy sole is preferable to a liglJtsole.
5. Shoes should be long enough anc1 wic1e enough for the toes to liestraight and slightly separated. They should bc roomy over the toes,auc1 fit snugly al'oUlH1 the heel and instep.
6, Shoes Sll0111c1 have a substantial heel, that can properly cany theweight-high heels are responsible for poor posture, sore feet, achingbacks ancl touchy tempel'S. Consider what woulci happen to a postIt foot square and six feet high, if it wera I'aised two uncI a halfincllOs from the ground at one side. High heels cause the musclesat the back of the leg to grow short from lack of use. Then whenone attcmpts to wear s·ensible shoes, 01' tennis s11Oes, there is a
tremendous strain at the heel cord. Did you evel' know that highheels enlal'ged the calf of the leg~ Every girl aspires to have
slender, shapely legs. Moclerate, sonsible lleels will help her havethem.
7. Keep heels ill good repah-. RUlI down heels indicate slovenliness.
How Can You Help Correct Foot Difficnlties?
1. Weal' shoes that fonow the lines of the foot.2. Weal' gohoes of material that is comfortablo on your feet.3. Walk with your toes straight ahead. It will strengthen ll1uscles
allci arches.4. If feet are badly strained 01' weakenel1, rest, massage, anc1 propel'
cxel'cise will help. A physieian should be consultecl.5. Take simple exereises:
a. Walk on tip-toes.b. Walk" toeing in. ,.,c. Grasp with toes.~barefoot (grasp a pencil or marble with toes',
und take as many steps as possible without dropping it).d. Rising on toes (feet parallel, rise on ball of foot, twisting heels
inward and tryillg to grasl) the floor with the toes).
16 MON'l'ANA EXTENSION SERVICE
Care of the Clothing
One of the aims of every club ghl is "to be well dressee1," with as littleexpenditme of money as possible. She Ciln not look well :unless she keepsher clothing in good condition. A few clothes well cared for are better thanIII any poorly kept.
The one thing we cau all be, whether rich or poor, is to be clean und neat.If we would learn to make good use of dress ancl coat hangers, shoe trees,soap and water, a brush, a few simple cleaning fluids', amI an iron, we wouldJook better, feel. 'better, and save financially.
What call you do to keep your clothes in better eonclition9Here are a few "<lo's" every girl should follow, uutil they become a
ltabit-1. Hang coats and dresses on hangers when they fire not being W01'n,2. Put hats away in box 01' drawer.3. Use shoe trees in shoes,4, B.rllsh clothing "with ,,' the nap, to re1110ve the dust,5. Weur freshly washed hose each day.6. Wash hose as soon as you take them off, as the perspiration rots the
fibers.7. Sew up runs in hose immediately.8. Dam stockings as soon as a hole 01' thin phlce appears.9. Wash silk underwear carefUlly.
10. Remove stains from ·clothing as soon as' they appeal'.H, Ail' clothing frequently.12. Keep hooks and eyes, snaps and buttons, sewed on.13. Keep coats that are not in ,use in moth-proof bags.14. Weal' rubbe1's and overshoes when neces'sary, to protect your health,
as well as saving the appearance and life of your shoes.Check up on YOUl'seli, and if you a1'e neglecting some of the "do's" sec
that they become a part of your dub lJrogl'affi.
Laundering
Cottons and Linens
1. Use only pure soap ancl enough fOl" a lasting, bubbly suds.2. Soak fabric in cool water.3. Wash in warm suds (for eolore<l materials-cl0 not soak, and usc
almost cool temperatUl'eS').4. Do not rub 01' twist fabrics-squeeze suels repeatedly through the
fabric.5. Ril1se thoroughly, twice warm auel once cool.6. Dry qUickly. If garments are delicate, roll in clean towel tightly.
WoolWool is not easy to laundel' because the fiber of wool is covered with
tiny, horny scales. These overlap, and the overlapping eclges a1'e looselyattach eel and give a lJille cone effect to the surface of the nber. Hot water
FIRST YEAR CLUB CLOTHING 17
friction is then applied, by' rubbing 01'
This makes the fiber shl'ink, and givescauses these s'cales to expand. IfwringiIlg, the fibel's mat together.the wool material a harsh effect.
1. Use lukewal'll1 water for both washing and rinsing.2. Use a good mild soap.a. Do not soak, but squeeze in two lukewarm suds, keeping article under
water.4. Rinse thoroughly in two or lIlore lukewarm l·inses.5. Squeeze out water. Roll between towels until loose moisture is
a'bsol·bed.G. Shape article and dry away from dhect sun or extreme coM 01' heat.
SilkSilk is treatecl in much the same way as wool.1. Do not rub, wring, or pin on tIle line to dry.2. Use lukewarm water and a solution of mild soap.3. '\Vmp garment in Turkish towel.
Pressing
Wl,jnkled clothes llave 110 place in tIle well d1'esscel girl's wardrobe.Learn to press your own clothes, aud to do it l'ight. All fabrics cannot bopl'essed in the s'amc manner.
WoolCover with a thick dump cloth and pl'ess until cloth is dry. Hang gal"
ment up immc(liately to thoroughly dry. "Shine" is eausee1 by wcal'ing offthe nap. A tablespoon of ammonia adde(1 to tepid water is good for spongingshiny material before pressing. Nap may belJrushed up with a stiff brush,01' It piece of vel'y fine sandpaper may be used.
SilkDo not use too hot an iron. Press on wrong s1de of matel'ial.
Ootton and LinenBe ·careful not to usc too hot un iron, so that nJatel'ial wiIl scorch.
Material must be (1ampened enough so tllllt it will pI'ess smooth.
Judging
Every girl shoule1 make every article the very best of which she is capable.It is interesting and worthwhile to s'core yOUl' completecl articles aecol'llillgto the following SCOl'e cm'd, and to compare mid (liscuss Y(}Ul' results.
18 MONTANA EXTENSION SERVICE
Neatness
Beauty of line and color
1. General Appearance-IiiCleanliness
PERFEC'l' SOORE:-1--;-A----;-;B I 0 D]'I:-__:· :_.....;;.._',_~--l
II
III. :::;:~t~:~;e~sOIO·~.=~~··..·····_·· , ! ..
Originality'inelividuality of design III
HI. S~~:e:.:::Yu::e]us:
o·..· ·· ..· · ·· ..l ··· ·..··!····..· ..
SUitwbility to design am] purpose I IDurability I
ILaundering or cleaning qualities
IV. WOl'kmanship-20Outting
Choice of seams, hems, and finishes II
V. R:::::~':c:~o:a:::hl::q::s~~~··· ·_· I..· · ·m·I· mm m
Suggestion: After ea,eh article is completed, set aside a fow minutes andjudge these artioles. Yem will enjoy it, and it will make your wol'1e ofbetter quality.
There arc several methods of judging, but club members must first becomefamiliar with the points on which articles -are judged before they cnn makeaccurate elecisiollS. Therefore, the above score card should be used.
How to ,Proceed WitJl the Judging
1. 'Oompletoel articles shoulc] be laid on a table.2. Number them A·B·O-D, etc.3. Ea'cll club member s,houle] have a copy of the a:bove score card and
a pencil.4. Leader s1l0ule] explain the points given on the score card.5. Begin judging. Members should dce]uct from tho perfect score what·
ever they feel should be dec1.uctod, keeping the deductions in proportion throughout. That is, one girl may take off 5 on I 'MaterialUsed" on No. A' I While another girl may take off 10, even though her
PIRST YEAR CLUB OLOTHING 19
opinion of the al,ticle would lJe no less tlJun that of the one whodeducted only 5. It is the relative value that counts.
6, Total up the scores and discuss the placings of tho various articles.Why you placed B aobove A, etc.
When club members have llad experience in judging the various articles,according to the above score cord, they are thon ready to make pla.eingsaccording to comparative mting cards. CL'hese will be furnished by theCounty Ext('nsion Agent or Stute Club Office).
ExhibitsWhy Exhibit?
To fi11(1 out how yom work compares with that of other club members j
to help you improve your work; to show the people of your community antlstnte what you have accomplished.
Remember, when you are exhibiting, that only a few can win. Thc valuein exhibiting is in the compl.U'isons.
'When you exhibit at a community, county, 01' state event:1. All articles must be clean nnc1 well laundered before you can expect
a juc1ge to consider them.2. All articles must be labeled, with name and address typewritton or
neatly pl'intecl, on a piece (2 in. x 1 in.) of stiff cloth (paper cambricis good) !Ulcl sewed secUl'ely to the article.
3. Place the label at the bacle ill center of neckline (on glLrments).Unifo1'mity in p'acing In:bels will save time at exhibits.
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l ,(Simplicity is not plainness, st~lpidity, or pOV81'ty, b~lt isthe f01lnclation of all that is bealltif~£l. J!
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DOZlt.4AH CH'U.,UCll PRHIT
