Historic Scotland, Summer 2014

THE MAGAZINE FOR HISTORIC SCOTLAND MEMBERS SUMMER 2014

32GREAT EVENTSINSIDE

NORTHERN NEXUS

Exploring Orkney’s military past

THE LATEST COMPETITIONS

AND NEWS

The First World War remembered

YOUR SUMMER STARTS HERE

GO EXPLORE!THE A TO Z VISITORS’ GUIDE

From battling knights to brilliant days out

Call +44 (0)20 7408 0214 (ext. 214 & 216) and quote ‘HISTORIC SCOTLAND’ for special joining discounts, visit www.rosl.org.uk or email [email protected]

HOW TO JOIN

A DIFFERENT KIND OF MEMBERS CLUBThe Royal Over-Seas League is a unique, not-for-profi t, private membership organisation. For over 100 years we have encouraged international friendship and understanding through arts, social, music and humanitarian programmes. With membership benefi ts including accommodation and dining at our historic clubhouses in Edinburgh and London, and reciprocal arrangements with over 80 clubs around the world, we offer our members a home away from home.

Edinburgh ClubhouseOver-Seas House100 Princes Street

Edinburgh EH2 3AB

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London SW1A 1LR

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WWW.HISTORIC-SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 1

The summer we’ve all been looking forward to is finally here, and with so many big events going on this season I hope you’ll find plenty of inspiration

in this latest edition of Historic Scotland magazine.While Glasgow gears up for the Commonwealth Games, it’s

the perfect opportunity for us to look back at how Scotland’s sporting heritage has been played out in bricks and mortar.

As we commemorate the centenary of the start of the First World War this year, historian Allan Carswell reflects on how many buildings on the home front were pressed into active service by the conflict. The war’s legacy is still very much in evidence in Orkney, where the British Grand Fleet made its base at Scapa Flow. In this issue, Indira Mann charts an island-hopping course through Orcadian seafaring history, encountering a few Neolithic treasures and Norse kings en route.

Elsewhere, in a bid to channel something of those ancient mariners, Fiona McKinlay takes the helm of the passenger ferry to Lochleven Castle for the day.

Back on dry land we have a bumper A to Z of great activities and attractions, plus all the usual news and updates, including details of Stirling’s Big Weekend and an award for some fascinating archaeological discoveries on Orkney.

With so many historic attractions on your doorstep, all that’s left to say is: on your marks, get set, go!

Welcome to

Contributors

HISTORICSCOTLAND

INDIRA MANNShip to shore (P.42)A former archaeologist and interpretive planner, Indira is a journalist with a lifelong love of Scotland’s castles and wild places.

ALLAN CARSWELLBattle station Scotland (P.34)

Since 2005, Allan has worked as a freelance curator and museum

consultant specialising in British military history.

FIONA McKINLAYMy day as a boatman (P.28)Fiona is a writer and photographer based in Central Scotland. Her work has appeared in many titles, including The Herald and Metro.

5 big things to see and do this issueEnjoy a journey through time at Celebration of the Centuries P.49

Take a trip to Torphichen Preceptory P.14

Watch Bannockburn come to life at Stirling’s Big Weekend P.4

Set sail for an island castle P.28

Catch Fragments of Gold at Glasgow Cathedral P.53

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CLAIRE BOWIE Membership & CRM Manager

Glasgow Cathedral

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LOOK INSIDE

Headquarters Historic Scotland

Longmore House, Salisbury Place Edinburgh EH9 1SH

www.historic-scotland.gov.uk

Membership enquiries 0131 668 8999

[email protected]

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Membership & CRM Manager Claire Bowie

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Editor Jack Kibble-White

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Deputy Editor Fiona McKinlay

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Design Matthew Ball, Alistair McGown

Sub-editor Sian Campbell, Sam Bartlett

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[email protected]

Think Woodside House,

20-23 Woodside Place Glasgow G3 7QF 0141 582 1280

Photography

All images provided by Historic Scotland unless otherwise stated. For access to

images of Scotland and our properties, call 0131 668 8647/8785, email hs.images@

scotland.gsi.gov.uk, or visit www.historicscotlandimages.gov.uk

Historic Scotland is an Agency within the Scottish Government and is directly responsible to Scottish Ministers for

safeguarding the nation’s historic environment and promoting its understanding and enjoyment.

Historic Scotland is published four times a year, and is printed on UPM Finesse, which

is made from pulp sourced from sustainable materials.

The views expressed in the magazine do not necessarily reflect those of Historic

Scotland. All information is correct at the time of going to press.

© Historic Scotland. All rights reserved. Reproduction in part or in whole is

prohibited without prior agreement of the Membership and CRM Manager and

Historic Scotland.

Cover: Caerlaverock Castle

HISTORIC SCOTLAND SUMMER 2014

34 | Seaforth Highlanders28 | On the water at Loch Leven

THE MAGAZINE FOR HISTORIC SCOTLAND MEMBERS SUMMER 2014

32GREATEVENTSINSIDE

SUM

MER 2014

WW

W.H

ISTORIC�SCOTLAND.GOV.U

K/MEM

BERH

ISTORIC SCOTLAND

NORTHERN NEXUS

Exploring Orkney’s military past

THE LATEST COMPETITIONS

AND NEWS

The First World War remembered

YOUR SUMMER STARTS HERE

GO EXPLORE!THE A TO Z VISITORS’ GUIDE

From battling knights to brilliant days out

00_HS_SUM14_COVERspine.indd 1 28/05/2014 14:34


Lochleven Castle P28

Skara Brae P42

Greenknowe Tower P20

St Rule’s Tower P18

Kilchurn Castle P17

Arlington Baths Club P25

Edinburgh Castle P18

17 THE A to Z OF HISTORIC SCOTLANDFeaturing the wonderful attractions found at our properties

24 GOING FOR GOLDWith Glasgow hosting the Commonwealth Games this year, Scotland’s sporting buildings are put on a winners’ podium

28 MY DAY AS A BOATMANFiona McKinlay charts

a course over Loch Leven as skipper of the popular passenger ferry to the castle

34 BATTLE STATION SCOTLANDAllan Carswell reveals that things were not all quiet on the home front during the First World War

42 SHIP TO SHOREFrom Scapa Flow to Skara Brae, Indira Mann explores Orkney’s rich seafaring past

48EVENTSWith summer here, we bring you the best days out and attractions from right across Scotland

REGULARS

FEATURES

PLACES TO VISITTHIS SUMMER

4 THE SCRIPTCatch up with news and what’s on, including Bannockburn Live

47 MEMBERSHIP48 EVENTS56 GUESS THE YEAR

42 | The Earl’s Palace

24 | Going for golf at St Andrews

19 | The Moray Firth

21 | Meet Renaissance Man

4 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

The journey of Glasgow Cathedral’s construction materials

Poaching: its lure and lore through the ages

Great prizes to be won in our photography competition

Improve your conservation skills at summer schoolPEOPLE, PLACES, RESEARCH, COMPETITIONS, AND MORE…

INCLUDINGS C R I P TT H E

BY the time you receive this issue of Historic Scotland, final preparations will be under way for a weekend of spectacular events in Stirling.

Kicking off the action in fine tune on Friday evening is a celebration of Scottish culture and heritage. Hundreds of pipers, drummers, Highland dancers and clan members, from Scotland and across

the world, will gather for Pipefest which starts with a parade from Stirling Castle Esplanade through the city.

Bannockburn Live will commemorate the 700th anniversary of the battle. Hundreds of re-enactors from Scotland and across Europe will bring the battle to life with three electrifying performances each day.

And there’s a packed programme of cultural events, with Scottish singer and songwriter Dougie MacLean and Gaelic singer Julie Fowlis just two of the stars confirmed.

The Armed Forces Day National Event on Saturday 28 June will include flypasts by historic and modern aircraft, combat displays, marching

STIRLING’S BIG WEEKENDbands, military vehicles and much more.

There will also be a huge parade of serving personnel, cadets and veterans from Stirling Castle Esplanade to the events arena in the ancient royal parkland.

TO FIND OUT MORE www.pipefest.com www.bannockburnlive.com www.stirlingarmedforcesday.co.uk

EVENTS Experience one of the most exciting weekends to take place in the Year of Homecoming 2014

Bannockburn Live will take place on 28 and 29 June


Enjoy afternoon tea at Edinburgh Castle

SCOTTISH Food & Drink Fortnight takes place every September and is the annual celebration of Scotland’s fantastic produce. To celebrate, on 14 September Historic Scotland is running a special four-course Homecoming Wine and Dine event at Edinburgh Castle. On the menu will be delights such as braised Scottish lamb shank and Highland venison loin, not to mention specially chosen wines to accompany each course.

In addition, throughout September, Edinburgh Castle will play host to afternoon teas, offering up such delicacies as traditional Scottish macaroons and homemade scones with locally sourced clotted cream.

Meanwhile, the castle’s Redcoat Café and Jacobite Room have unveiled eye-catching new décor, including a display of quotes from Redcoat soldiers from with strong

links to the castle.The account of James

Anton, Quartermaster-Sergeant, 42nd Royal

Highlanders, who was based at the castle in 1813, is illuminating, revealing that he ‘breakfasted about nine in the morning, on bread and milk; dined about two in the afternoon, on potatoes and a couple of salt herrings, boiled in the pot with the potatoes: a bottle of small-beer (commonly called swipes) and a slice of bread served for supper’.

TO FIND OUT MORE Scottish Food & Drink Fortnight runs from 6 to 21 September. For more information on the wine and dine and afternoon tea events at Edinburgh Castle, see page 55

FEAST FOR 14 DAYSEVENT Annual celebration of Scottish produce

HISTORIC Scotland has launched a brand new blog, The Chain Mail. Regularly updated, it’s a visitors’ guide to the sights and sounds of Historic Scotland. It covers events, behind-the-scenes and the experience of going out and visiting our amazing locations.www.historic-scotland.gov.uk/blog

RESOURCE

YOU’VE GOT CHAIN MAIL

August sees the final event in the Fragments series take place at Glasgow Cathedral. The Fragments project is a Year of Creative Scotland arts and music project for the Scottish Borders with its origins in the discovery of a rare and precious fragment of a medieval manuscript.

Led by Historic Scotland, in partnership with the Heart of Hawick Heritage Hub and with funding from Creative Scotland and Historic Scotland, the project has been taking inspiration from the words and music contained within the fragment.

Central to the project has been a series of events held at the great Border abbeys featuring new music created by renowned composers Michael Nyman and Grayston Ives.

The series comes to a close at Fragments of Gold at Glasgow Cathedral on Saturday 30 August and will feature a final composition from the internationally renowned artist Goldie.

For more, see page 53

THE FINAL FRAGMENTEVENT

Fragments of Red at Melrose Abbey

6 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

THE SCRIPT

THE CATHEDRAL’S SPECIAL MATERIALS

WOULD you like to increase your knowledge of traditional buildings? Historic Scotland’s Technical Conservation Summer School runs from 23 to 27 June at Forth Valley College Stirling Campus, and offers the opportunity to improve your skills by

obtaining specialist conservation training from leading experts. This week-long course provides a solid introduction to traditional building materials and their repair and maintenance through a combination of lectures, field trips and hands-

on sessions. By the end of the week you will have insight into how to approach working with traditional buildings and their component materials.

FIND OUT MORE Discounted member tickets available by logging into www.historic-scotland.gov.uk/member

CONSERVATION SUMMER SCHOOLEVENT Improve your conservation skills on this week-long course

WHERE GLASGOW CATHEDRAL CAME FROMARCHITECTURE

With Glasgow Cathedral scheduled to play an important role in commemorating the 100th anniversary of the start of World War One, this magnificent 13th-century building is set to step into the spotlight once again. Historic Scotland’s Adrian Cox explains where some of the materials used in the construction of the cathedral originally came from.

WINDOW GLASS (Munich)

Stone The cathedral is built from a type of carboniferous sandstone, locally known as ‘blond’ sandstone. This would have been quarried in the neighbourhood, or possibly in Lanarkshire. The dark colouration is due to a layer of pollutants from the city’s industrial past.

Wood for the roof The original timbers may have come from the Loch Lomond area. In the late 13th century, the church arranged to fell and prepare timber in woodland around Luss. When the nave and choir roofs were restored to their present condition in the early 20th century, as much of the original oak as possible was reused.

Window glass There are well over 100 windows in the cathedral, in a variety of shapes and sizes. Much of the stained glass in the cathedral’s windows today was installed from the 1930s to the 1960s, replacing an earlier series of windows manufactured in the 1860s in Munich, Germany.

Old bell A large bronze bell, the gift of Gavin Dunbar, Archbishop of Glasgow (1524-47) but recast in the 18th century, stands in the north-west corner of the nave, near the demolished tower in which it hung. An inscription says it was made in the Netherlands and ‘placed with great solemnity in the tower of the Cathedral’.

WOOD FORTHE ROOF(Luss)

BELL(Netherlands)

Glasgow CathedralSTONE

(Lanarkshire)

Summer school’s in


THE SCRIPT

POACHING has a long and colourful history. During the Middle

Ages it was widely practised by impoverished peasants, seeking to augment a scanty diet – and at considerable personal risk. If you were caught, one punishment was the amputation of a hand. This barbaric penalty was later replaced with a fine – although the poacher’s dog would lose a paw.

Despite the hazards, poaching was seen as a necessary evil by ordinary folk, in a spirit akin to Robin Hood’s adventures. Peasants usually did not have the weapons, the skills or the free time to hunt – so they devised alternative ways to bring meat to their tables.

One simple technology was a snare – usually a loop of twine or wire staked to the ground. The unfortunate animal would inadvertently step into the loop, which would tighten around its leg when it attempted to move off, tethering it until the poacher returned.

One of the most ingenious methods I have heard of was employed for bagging partridge. This made use of a dog with a lantern tied to its neck. The dog was

Historic Scotland’s Natural Heritage Advisor, Bob Tevendale, on the history of illegal hunting for game and fish

Risks and rewardssent into a field of stubble, where it would range quietly until it found some birds, then stand stiffly and point to where they lay. The light dazzled or frightened the birds, so it was not difficult to clap the net over them.

In the 1700s, as urban populations grew, subsistence poaching became a more specialised activity. Gangs of organised poachers often engaged in fierce battles with gamekeepers, and mantraps and spring guns were hidden in the underbrush to catch intruders.

This situation was the backdrop to the infamous Cumnock poaching riot of 1833. Poachers operating around the Ayrshire town of Cumnock sent much of their catch to Glasgow, but sold some of it from a local pub – much appreciated by the townsfolk.

When three members of the gang were apprehended by police and interred in Cumnock, the local populace rioted. The ‘mob’ forced its way into the room where the poachers were being held, and in the ensuing mêlée the gamekeeper’s gun went off, killing one of the constables guarding the men. Two of the rioters were jailed as a result, while the gamekeeper faced a criminal trial but was acquitted. Before long, the poachers freed during this escapade had resumed their illegal trade.

Poachers use a cleek and torch to hunt salmon

VIEW FROM OUTDOORS

YOUNG MONARCHS

THE CONNECTION

Alexander IIwas born in Haddington,

East Lothian, and took the throne at the age of 16

in 1214

David IIbecame King of Scots at only five years old when his father, Robert Bruce,

died on 7 June 1329

James I was just 11 and captive in England when his father

died in 1406

SUPE

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8 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

THE SCRIPT

WIN FOR ORCADIAN YOUNGSTERS’ JOINED-UP THINKINGTeenagers from Orkney have been named the Sunday Mail Young Scot Awards Heritage Heroes 2014. The Connect Project, which won the award, is a group of young people who help preserve Scotland’s most valuable history, the memories, dialect and lives of its older generation.

WIN a copy of Carlton Books’ First World War Remembered by Gary Sheffield. The book captures the wide sweep of the conflict, describing the development of the fighting from 1914-18, and spotlighting some of the obscure but important actions as well as the major battles and the soldiers who fought them. For your chance to win a copy, answer the following question:

PRIZE QUESTIONWhat was the real name of Germany’s infamous pilot, The Red Baron?

Post your answer and details to First World War Remembered Competition, Think Scotland, 20-23 Woodside Place, Glasgow G3 7QF, or email [email protected] (with ‘First World War Remembered Competition’ in the subject line). The closing date for entries is 18 July.

FIRST WORLD WAR BOOK

SPRING COMPETITION ANSWER AND WINNERBIRLIN BOOKSThe ship that carried Shackleton to his 1908 expedition of the Antarctic was called Nimrod. Congratulations to Sheila Cullander, Bexhill-on-Sea

WIN

Connect Project members

SUN

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A POCKET FULL OF HISTORYAPP

The launch of Historic Scotland’s new app brings essential information to your fingertips

HISTORIC Scotland has recently launched its mobile app, available on iPhones and Android smart phones. It’s your essential download for inspiration on great days out at Historic Scotland attractions and events.

You can find out which Historic Scotland locations are near you now,

search for properties by theme (looking for the best sites for peace and quiet? The app has some suggestions!), and even peruse possible itineraries. It’s also a great way to keep up to date with Historic Scotland news.

Download the new app at your relevant app store, search for ‘Historic Scotland’.

Terms and conditions: Holidays are subject to availability and can change without prior notice. All details correct at time of going to press. Prices shown are per person and based on two sharing the lowest grade stateroom. Prices quoted are including £1,000 per person discount, but excluding additional 5% discount. Gratuities are not included. Complimentary wine, beer and soft drinks served with lunch and dinner are not applicable to hotel stays. Some cruises also operate in the reverse direction. All

bookings must be made by the 30 June 2014. A Chinese visa is required for Imperial Jewels of China. This can be arranged through Viking at an approximate cost of £109 per person. This price is subject to change. ABTA V924X, ATOL 3124. Single supplements apply.

2015 NOW ON SALE AWARD-WINNING VIKING RIVER CRUISES FROM ONLY £1,145PP

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VRC_HS_210x279mm_April2014_v2.indd 1 28/04/2014 14:23


THE SCRIPT

REMEMBER… FOR reasons beyond our control we sometimes have to take a last-minute decision to close one of our properties for the day. For the latest status go to www.historic-scotland.gov.uk/hsclosure or search Twitter using the hash tag #hsclosure

ABDIE Curling Club House is a small stone-built curling house on the edge of Lindores Loch in Fife.

It was constructed in 1871 for the Abdie Curling Club, and although its roof was originally thatched with reeds from the loch, the hut is now roofed with corrugated iron.

The simple interior remains much as it was when first built, with a small fireplace, shelves for storing the curling stones, a table and benches.

This remarkable B-listed building is a reminder of the popularity of curling in the 19th century and is just one of many amazing locations, featured in Scotland’s Sporting Buildings, a new Historic Scotland book.

CURL UP WITH OUR NEW BOOK

scotland’s sporting buildings | 29

28 | bowling and skittles

Every county town was provided with a public

bowling-green for the diversion of the inhabitants

in the summer evenings. All classes were repre-

sented among the players, and it was usual for

persons of different ranks to take part in the same

game. A bowling-green usually formed part of the

policy or pleasure grounds of country houses. At

these private bowling-greens ladies also shared

in the amusement, thus rendering it greatly

more attractive.

Thomas Somerville, Minister of Jedburgh,

about 18141

It is impossible to trace a single origin for the

ancient sport of bowling, but the modern game of

flat green bowls, as played throughout the world,

is shaped by its development in Scotland from

the sixteenth to the nineteenth centuries. Like its

winter cousin, curling, bowls has a long tradition

of widespread participation across social classes

and gender. Numerous variants existed before

the nineteenth century, including ‘lang bowlis’ or

bulleting (distance road-bowling towards a defined

target), pennystanes (flat, round stones thrown at

a target on the ground), rowbowllis (rolled bowls),

allay bowlis (alley bowls on a surface of clay, sand

or grass towards a feather marker), and kyles (skit-

tles).2 The earliest reference to any form of the

sport in Scotland is thought to be in April 1497 when

James iV played ‘lang bowlis’ at St Andrews.3

An Act of Edinburgh Town Council in 1581 banned

the playing of ‘bowling in yairdis’ on the sabbath.4

James Vi created a bowling green in the ruins of

Dunfermline Abbey in about 1596. Henry Adamson

referred to his friend James Gall’s ‘alley bowles’ in

his poem The Muses Threnodie of 1620.5 Glazing

estimates for Dunfermline Palace in 1654 refer

to the dismantling of ‘the wark callit the kylspell’,

probably an indoor skittles alley created for Anne of

Denmark.6 Royal enthusiasm for bowling certainly

had an impact on the widespread adoption of the

game by the nobility and gentry throughout the

seventeenth century. Almost no towerhouse or

prestigious townhouse was complete without its

Burntisland Bowling CluB,

123 Kinghorn road, Burntisland, 1893

Listed Category B

Mr D. Ferguson designed the Burntisland Bowling Club

Pavilion for the Burntisland Recreation Company. It

was opened on 2 August 1893 and cost £300. Initially

the pavilion also serviced the three tennis courts that

lay to the north. The bowling green itself had been

opened in July 1892.

Bowling and Skittles

FIND OUT MORE For more on Scotland’s sporting heritage and details on how to order Scotland’s Sporting Buildings, see page24

PUBLICATION

Buildings title highlights sporting venues

IN THIS YEAR

1898

l The Culloden Viaduct opens, creating a direct route between Inverness and Aviemore.

l Specialising in shortbread, Joseph Walker opens his bakery.

l Colonel James Ogston acquires Kildrummy Castle and begins restoration work.

l At the height of the whisky boom, the Dallasmoredistillery is built. It would be renamed Dallas Dhu in 1899.

The new Historic Scotland book features fantastic sporting venues

ALAM

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Abdie Curling Hut

Scotland’sSporting Buildings

12 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

THE SCRIPT

OUR popular photography competition is back for another year, giving you the chance to show off more of your incredible shots of Historic Scotland properties and their surroundings. Whether you like to fill the boot with L lenses before an outing, or just have a camera phone and a good eye, we want to see what you can do! We welcome entries from our younger members too.

HOW TO ENTERPlease ensure each entry is labelled with your name, address, telephone number, membership number and email, and the name of the property where the photograph was taken. You must be 8 or over to enter and all entries by under-16s should be marked accordingly.

To enter email your photographs to hs.photos@

thinkpublishing.co.uk, or send digital images on CD to Historic Scotland Photography Competition, Think Scotland, 20-23 Woodside Place, Glasgow G3 7QF.

The closing date for entries is 17 October 2014. Images will be judged by a panel made up of the Historic Scotland membership and photographic teams, and the editor and publisher of Historic Scotland magazine.

SNAP TO IT!PHOTOGRAPHY Announcing the 2014 Historic Scotland photo competition

WIN AN IPAD MINIEach category winner will receive a year’s renewal membership to Historic Scotland. The overall winner will also receive an iPad mini.

Some of the photographs taken by entrants to the competition may feature in a future Historic Scotland calendar.

The winners and runners-ups will be announced in the spring 2015 issue of Historic Scotland.

CATEGORIES■ JUNIOR Photographs taken in and around Historic Scotland properties by children under the age of 16.■ PROPERTIES Shots of, or showing individual features of, castles, cathedrals, chapels, barracks, mills or any other properties under Historic Scotland’s care.■ WILDLIFE Snaps of the natural world in and around our properties.

FIVE TIPS TO HELP YOU TAKE THE PERFECT SHOT

GO WIDE

1 Shoot wide angle and take a few steps back to let your

landmark be elegantly framed by its surroundings. This will add context to your snap.

TAKE A RAIN CHECK

2 The sky might not be your main focus, but it can

change everything. A blue sky will brighten up any scene, and the sun can be your free fancy lighting set-up if you

catch it in the right spot. Stormy skies can look spectacular – just make sure you’re ready to run for cover.

MIRROR IMAGE

3 Look for reflections in lochs, windows or even

puddles – these can give you great, creative shots with a surreal and dreamy feel.

KNOW YOUR SUBJECT

4 Soaking up knowledge

about the property you are visiting and hoping to memorably photograph can give a spark of unique inspiration that no amount of technical know-how can produce.

RIGHT TIME, RIGHT PLACE

5 They say the best camera is the one you have with

you. Who knows when you might see a pair of squirrels in medieval dress jousting on ducks’ backs – so be prepared, even if you’re only wielding a well-worn camera phone.

Inchcolm Abbey (Whitney Dooley) and Stirling Castle (Fraser Hetherington) from last year’s competition


THE archaeological dig at the Links of Noltland on the coast of Orkney was named Rescue Dig of the Year at the Current Archaeology Awards in London.

The site has shed new light on life in prehistoric Orkney and comprises more than 20 buildings comparable to Skara Brae.

Archaeologists had to work in the face of rapid coastal and wind erosion that threatened to destroy the site’s secrets.

The dune system that has protected the site for millennia is depleting and in 2005 the Neolithic and Bronze Age settlement was

ORKNEY DIGS IN FOR THE WIN AWARD Noltland named Rescue Dig of the Year

revealed. In response, Historic Scotland launched a campaign of conservation works and rescue excavations tackled by EASE Archaeology.

Discoveries have included the ‘Orkney Venus’ as well as three other figurines, grooved ware pottery and numerous decorative and domestic objects.

RULES 1. An entrant can submit a maximum of three photographs. 2. Entries must be taken in or near Historic Scotland locations. 3. All images must be submitted as digital files. 4. Digital images should be high resolution and submitted by email or on CD. Each image should not exceed 6MB in size. 5. Images may be enhanced only to remove spots or scratches. 6. All entries are sent at the photographer’s risk and Historic Scotland cannot accept liability for damage or loss. Entries will not be returned to entrants. All photos must be legally obtained, with permission if appropriate. 7. Entrants must be the sole

author and owner of copyright for all images entered. 8. Copyright in all images submitted for this competition remains with the respective entrants. Where an image is used in the magazine or Historic Scotland calendar, the photographer will be credited. However, in consideration of entering the competition, each entrant grants Historic Scotland a licence to feature competition images on the website or in the publication or promotional material connected to Historic Scotland. 9. The competition is not open to employees of Historic Scotland or Think. 10. Winners will be notified by 10 April 2015. 11. Historic Scotland reserves the right to cancel this competition or alter any of the rules, if necessary.

12. If the winner is unable to be contacted after reasonable attempts, Historic Scotland reserves the right to either offer the prize to a runner up or to reoffer the prize in any future competition. 13. These rules are governed by the laws of Scotland. 14. The decision of the judges is final. 15. The first prize includes an iPad mini. The prize is subject to availability. If, for any reason, it becomes unavailable we reserve the right to supply a suitable alternative prize of similar value. 16. Entrants must be a Historic Scotland member or, in the Junior category, their parent/guardian must be a Historic Scotland member. 17. Historic Scotland photos submitted for the competition may be featured in Historic Scotland’s calendars.

Alan Cowper’s picture of Aberdour

Castle was a runner-up in 2011

Archaeologists at work on the Links of Noltland site

Holding a find from the dig

Alan Cowper’s picture of Aberdour

Castle was a runner-up in 2011


TIMELINE BEFORE 1153

David I grants Torphichen to the Hospitallers, who he invited to Scotland in 1132

1298

William Wallace, Guardian of Scotland, stays here prior to the Battle of Falkirk

1312

The Hospitallers are given property seized from the Knights Templar, allowing them to expand throughout the country

BELL TOWERConstructed in the 1400s, this was part of the church’s expansion as its lands grew

CLOISTER Part of the site’s 15th-century expansion - only the foundations remain

CUNINGARThe Scots term for a warren, the Hospitallers farmed rabbits on this rise, a very lucrative business in the medieval era

ALAM

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NAVEConverted into the local parish church during the Reformation in the 16th century, it was later destroyed to make way for a new kirk

SANCTUARY STONEThis stone marks the centre of an ‘area of sanctuary’, which had a diameter of some two miles. The stone is thought to pre-date the preceptory, suggesting the area was an ancient place of religious importance


LYING in the gently undulating countryside of West Lothian, Torphichen Preceptory was one of medieval Scotland’s great centres of power.

First built in the 1140s, the preceptory was constructed around an early medieval church.

Until the 1560s it was the home of the Scottish branch of the Knights Hospitaller of the Order of St John of Jerusalem.

Sir William Wallace, Guardian of Scotland, briefly took up residence at the preceptory, following victory at the Battle of Stirling Bridge.

The Hospitallers had fled, having supported the English.

The order returned during Robert the Bruce’s reign and they continued to work, pray and administer their Scottish estates from there until 1564, when the Hospitallers disbanded in Scotland.

The last preceptor, Sir James Sandilands, gave up the property to Mary, Queen of Scots, who sold it back to him and made him Lord Torphichen.

The site then became a parish kirk, with the church rebuilt on the demolished nave.

TORPHICHEN PRECEPTORYScottish HQ of a holy order formed in 11th-century Jerusalem

Torphichen Preceptory

is in West Lothian, off the B792 from

the A706

EXPLORE

TORPHICHENPRECEPTORY

EDINBURGH

1513

James IV demands Scotland’s Hospitallers be independent of the order’s English section

1564

The order is disbanded in Scotland. Sir James Sandilands, the last preceptor, is made Lord Torphichen

1756

The nave and domestic buildings are destroyed, making way for a new kirk to be built on the site

1947

The central tower is reroofed and the site passes into the care of Historic Scotland

THE SCRIPT

The preceptory’s remaining fabric

includes its 15th-century

bell tower

SPOTLIGHT ON

FARM The area was not just one of religious significance, and the farm was essential for the survival of the site, allowing it to provide for itself


A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z O F H I S T O R I C S C O T L A N D

THE

WITH SUMMER NOW HERE, WE TAKE YOU THE LENGTH AND BREADTH OF THE COUNTRY ON AN ALPHABETICAL TOUR OF

ATTRACTIONS, ACTIVITIES, ANIMALS AND ARCHITECTURE

A

Z


Kilchurn Castle

ABBOT’S HOUSEA Famous for its association

with a certain Declaration, Arbroath Abbey was founded in 1178 by King William I, ‘the Lion’. It fell into ruin after the Reformation in 1560 but the Abbot’s House on the property is one of the most complete such residences in Britain.

BANG!B The One o’Clock Gun is

famously fired daily (except on Sundays, Good Friday and Christmas Day) at 1pm from Edinburgh Castle. This tradition originated as a signal for ships two miles away in the Firth of Forth. Be ready for it, or that boom will give you the fright of your life!

CLIMB THE TOWERC St Rule’s Tower, standing

tall beside the ruins of St Andrews’ medieval cathedral, offers incredible views of the town, the shore and beyond. The cathedral itself was the largest ever built in Scotland, but now lies largely in ruin.

The One o’Clock Gun, Edinburgh Castle

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St Andrews


DOLPHIN SPOTTINGD There may be plenty of

scenery on offer at Fort George, north-east of Inverness, but why not enjoy a bit of local wildlife too? Bottlenose dolphins are often spotted in the Moray Firth, and the ramparts of Fort George are a great place from which to catch a glimpse.

FOR KING AND COUNTRYF A five-sided artillery fort

with bastions projecting from each corner, Fort Charlotte was built in 1665 to protect the Sound of Bressay in Shetland from the Dutch, but was taken by them and burned in 1673. The fort was rebuilt in 1781 and was named after George III’s queen.

S U M M E R S I G H T S

GARGOYLES

There are ornate gargoyles and other stone carvings aplenty at Melrose

Abbey. One depicting a pig playing the bagpipes is a particular highlight.

G

HENGEH A roughly circular or

oval-shaped flat area enclosed by a boundary earthwork, is called a ‘henge’. Perhaps the most famous example is Stonehenge. The third largest stone circle in the UK, the Ring of Brodgar and its associated henge stands proud within the Heart of Neolithic Orkney UNESCO World Heritage Site.

ISLAND CASTLEI The isle of Arran,

which is located 14 miles off the Ayrshire coast and is accessible by ferry from Ardrossan, boasts an impressive selection of Historic Scotland properties. The grandest of all is Lochranza Castle – a 13th-century hall house with a 16th-century tower conversion.

It had two entrances – a ‘tradesman’s entrance’ at ground level and a ‘front door’ at a higher level, which was probably reached by ladder for protection.

St Andrews Lochranza Castle

Ring of Brodgar

Charlotte of Mecklenburg

E Kilchurn Castle’s setting

on a rocky peninsula of Loch Awe is not the only thing that’s striking. In the mid-18th century the castle was struck by lightning, and fell into ruin after significant storm damage. A turret tower was knocked over and still lies in the courtyard in which it fell.

The fascinating ruin was initially constructed in the 15th century, but saw many additions throughout its life. For around a century

ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGEand a half, it was a base for Clan Campbell. During this time, the four fine angle-turrets on the top of the tower house were added.

Kilchurn Castle was later converted into a garrison stronghold, with the old tower house made into accommodation for two hundred men. A barracks built along the north side of the courtyard remains largely intact, and is considered the oldest surviving purpose-built barracks on the British mainland.


common feature of Scotland’s historic landscape. One theory on this popular design is that it offers extra protection to the building entrance from would-be attackers.

MOATM Few castles look as

majestic or magical in their moats than Caerlaverock. The distinctively triangular medieval stronghold sits close to the border with England and, as such, was a common victim of conflict.

PREHISTORIC LIVINGP Well preserved by the

sand that covered it for thousands of years, the prehistoric village at Skara Brae paints a vivid picture of Neolithic life. With stone furniture set in single-room houses made of tightly fitting stone slabs, multiple houses were linked by covered passages. Many artefacts were found, none of them weapons, suggesting a peaceful life for settlers here.

JUPITERJ The walled garden at

Edzell Castle contains carved panels depicting the Seven Cardinal Virtues, the Seven Liberal Arts and the Seven Planetary Deities –including Jupiter.

KEEPER OF THE LIGHTK The Kinnaird Head

Lighthouse was originally a fine 16th-century castle, converted in 1787 to incorporate the first lighthouse built by the Commissioners of the Northern Lighthouses. Mr James Park, Ship Master, was appointed the first ‘Keeper of the light’ at one shilling per night.

L-PLANL Properties built in the

shape of an L (as seen from above), such as Greenknowe Tower in the Scottish Borders, are a

OIL

Oil paintings from the National

Galleries of Scotland are among the

masterpieces on display

at the magnificent

Duff House

mansion.

0

Edzell Castle’s walled garden

Jarlshof in Shetland

Greenknowe Tower


N The remarkable Viking Age settlement at Jarlshof in

Shetland was discovered after a 19th-century storm tore away cliffs, revealing remains not only from that era, but from many others. Excavation unearthed various buildings and relics that reveal an impressive picture of the Norse settlers’ lives. Thousands of years of island

history are told at the Jarlshof site, with remains of Neolithic, Bronze Age and Iron Age settlements painting a picture of pre-Viking times. Wander the site with an audio tour for maximum fulfilment.

The name Jarlshof actually originates from Walter Scott’s 1821 novel, The Pirate, and pre-dates the discovery of the Norse settlement at the site.

NORSE SETTLEMENT

QUACK!Q Ducks,

swans and an array of other feathered friends can be seen (and heard) at Linlithgow Loch – the watery neighbour of Linlithgow Palace. The birthplace of Mary Queen of Scots was a popular calling point for 15th and 16th-century royals travelling between Edinburgh Castle and Stirling Castle.

After James VI’s coronation as James I of England, the royal residences moved to London and various properties in Scotland were suddenly used a lot less frequently than before. It fell into ruin after a fire in 1746.

The Palace provides a spectacular backdrop to the annual jousting event on Linlithgow Palace Peel.

RENAISSANCE MENR A royal stronghold from

at least the early 1100s, Stirling Castle owes its current form to the work of three Stewart kings, James IV, James V and James VI, during the Renaissance era. The elaborately carved stone walls of the Royal Palace, and its re-created colourful interior décor, were typical of this time.

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H I S T O R Y

THOUSAND-YEAR LEGEND

T More than one thousand years ago, some believe

the ancient rulers of Galloway made their home on Threave Island, but no evidence of their fortress remains. The tower that now stands in its place was built after 1369 for Sir Archibald Douglas, better known as Archibald ‘the Grim’.

UNICORNU Few impressions of the

majestic creature, popular in Celtic mythology and featured on the Kingdom of Scotland’s coat of arms, stand as tall and proud as the one atop the Preston Market Cross.

VIOLENT HISTORYV In the 16th century, a

nobleman attempting to regain control of Crossraguel Abbey used some questionable negotiation tactics to do so: capturing the commendator, binding and roasting him over a fire until he signed the deeds.

WINTERFELLW If castles were celebrities,

Doune Castle would be on our A list. Playing the role of Camelot in Monty Python and the Holy Grail back in the 1970s, Doune also starred in the pilot episode of Game of Thrones, as Winterfell. It has recently been used as a location for new big-budget sci-fi drama Outlander.

EXCAVATIONX Visitors are welcome at

the award-winning archaeological excavation at Links of Noltland in Orkney. Historic Scotland is actively involved in excavations at many of our sites.

ZERO!Z As a member, you pay

nothing for admission to a Historic Scotland property. Don’t forget, you can take advantage of special offers and discounts. In addition, new members can enjoy half-price entry to English Heritage, CADW: Heritage in Wales and Manx National Heritage attractions; renewal and life members can enjoy them all for free!

STORNOWAY OF LIFES The preserved Blackhouse

in Arnol is a fascinating relic of traditional island life. Unlike most modern houses, a blackhouse would typically provide shelter for livestock as well as people. Constructed from stone with a thatched roof and a peat fire in the centre of the living room, Hebridean blackhouses like this one were still used as homes as recently as the 1960s.

Without a chimney, the thatched roof of a blackhouse would become thick with smoke. One advantage of this, though, was that it killed bugs.

A whitehouse – the name given to the new houses built in the early 20th century to replace blackhouses due to changes in housing regulations – can also be seen across the road.

A feature predominantly

found in Scottish

castles (such as Balvenie), a

yett is a wrought iron gate or grille

used to protect doorways

from attack.

YETT

Y

Restored Blackhouse on Lewis

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NEW SCOTTISH BOOKS

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O U R H E R I T A G E

GOING FOR GOLD

5 OF SCOTLAND’S STUNNING SPORTING STRUCTURES

1›The R & A clubhouse is not only special because of its proud position in golfing history, but also for

the influence its architectural design and facilities have had on clubhouses around the world.

A century and a half of alterations by numerous architects

give plenty of scope for inspiration. In 1866 the Perthshire architect John Laurie Fogo extended the main clubroom, the Big Room, adding a large bay window and flanking cast-iron verandas (since removed) looking over the first tee and 18th green - a feature that has often been replicated elsewhere.

ROYAL AND ANCIENT GOLF CLUB, ST ANDREWSBuilt 1853 Listed category A


2›The pool at the Arlington Baths is the oldest surviving private indoor pool in

Britain. The Glasgow Swimming Bath Company was established in 1870 to construct the baths for

£1,700, and a swimming club was formed to lease the baths at 5 per cent of the capital cost per annum.

The architect was John Burnet Senior, the father of John James Burnet, who later designed the baths at Drumsheugh in Edinburgh.

A novel feature of the Arlington Baths, recorded in the Dundee Advertiser, was that ’by means of the boiler, the large swimming bath will be heated in winter, so that swimming can be practised at any time of the year’.

ARLINGTON BATHS CLUB, GLASGOWBuilt 1871 Listed category A

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GALA FAIRYDEAN FOOTBALL CLUB STAND, GALASHIELSBuilt 1963-64 Listed category A

3›Gala Fairydean moved to its current ground at Nether Road in 1962, taking

over the site from the Galashiels Rovers Rugby Club. It was another two years before the club managed to raise the necessary £25,000 for a 620-seat replacement stand.

The designer of this sculptural structure was the Yorkshire architect Peter Womersley, who for most of his career lived in Gattonside near Melrose. Ove Arup & Partners provided engineering expertise.

In the year that Scotland plays host to the Commonwealth Games for the third time, Historic Scotland

has unveiled the findings of Scotland’s Sporting Buildings, a study and celebration of the extraordinary range and outstanding quality of architecture on our sporting skyline.

A BRIEF HISTORYMany of Scotland’s oldest and most traditional sports can be traced to more popular and anarchic game-playing. Early versions of golf, shinty and football were typically played in kirkyards, streets and on public commons in the 15th to 18th centuries. Curling was particularly popular with farmers, masons and others whose work was disrupted by hard frost and freezing temperatures.

In the 19th century sporting societies proliferated and town populations swelled, prompting clubs to find spaces, acquire properties or build facilities.

Some of the country’s most iconic sporting buildings were designed in the 20th century for larger sporting events. Edinburgh’s Royal Commonwealth Pool was initially built for the 1970 Commonwealth Games, but was always intended ultimately for public use.


5›Scotland’s earliest surviving work of sporting architecture and the oldest tennis

court still in use anywhere in the world. The master of works records for James V’s remodelling of the palace identify the master mason John Brownhill in connection with the tennis court project.

The high walls of the court were never roofed, but it had a ‘toofall’, ‘penthouse’ or ‘pentice’ – a lean-to roofed viewing gallery along two sides of the interior. The accounts detail the construction of hazards, which possibly include the four openings (‘lunes’) in the back wall.

4›Three members of the Speculative Society (an Edinburgh public speaking and literary

society dating from 1764) – Edward Horsman, David Mure and James Moncrieff – founded Grange Cricket Club in 1832 on rough pasture belonging to Sir Thomas Dick Lauder at Grange House on the south side of Edinburgh.

By 1871 the club began the lease on its current ground off Raeburn Place and constructed a small brick pavilion.

Edinburgh’s Dean of Guild Court approved designs for a new pavilion by Cunningham, Blyth & Westland on 22 September 1892. Its estimated cost is recorded as £1,400.

GRANGE CRICKET CLUB PAVILION, EDINBURGHBuilt c.1892-95 Listed category A

The bridge carries the Kelvin Way across the River Kelvin within the area of Kelvingrove Park

James V had a tennis court added

O U R H E R I T A G E

MAD

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KOR

TEN

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ROYAL TENNIS COURT, FALKLAND PALACEBuilt 1539-41 Listed category A

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curling and horse-racing. It is the first ever architectural guide to sporting buildings and tells the history of sports through the structures that were built for them.

Scotland’s Sporting Buildings costs £11.99. Members can receive a 20 per cent discount and free P&P through Booksource (0845 370 0067, [email protected]), quoting HISTORIC 20.

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Scotland’sSporting Buildings

The roofed viewing gallery overlooks the open-air court

Grange’s pavilion was built in the late 19th century

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9amIt’s almost time to head off, and I am scrabbling around the flat, filling an extra bag with miscellaneous items I somehow think I might need. Wellies? Gloves? Spare shoes? A full change of clothes? How likely is it that I will fall overboard? And if that happens, do I really want my iPhone with me? I know, I’ll put it in one of those zip-lock food bags; that’ll protect it until the divers come to rescue it from the bottom of the loch. What, you don’t think they’d do that? But… but… it’s my iPhone!9.30AM Packed and ready, I meet the photographer and we hit the road. He

MY DAY AS A

BOATMAN

has brought a change of shoes too, and seems genuinely interested in my innovative iPhone protection system. Maybe I’m not completely crazy.10.30AM We arrive in Kinross, and drive through the quiet backstreets to Lochleven Castle’s ticket office. Simon Lennox, the Monument Manager, is busy booking in a queue of passengers for the morning’s journeys. He has saved us a spot on the 11.15 service, and hands me a ticket. Although there’s a bit of a breeze, the forecast is looking good after a dreary weekend.11.10AM Ray Twyford, a Historic Scotland steward and one of Lochleven Castle’s boatmen, arrives back at the jetty and starts to load his next lot of

B E H I N D T H E S C E N E S

It’s a life on the waves for FIONA McKINLAY as she joins the stewards who ferry passengers from Kinross across the water to Lochleven Castle

PHOTOS BY EUAN ROBERTSON

passengers. The property has three boats (although the third is usually saved for emergencies) that can each take 12 visitors. The cargo for my first trip is three families with children aged between one and eight. Ray gives the full safety briefing and ensures the boat is evenly balanced before we set off.

‘Don’t try and touch the water,’ he announces. ‘I can tell you it’s cold and it’s wet.’

During the journey he begins my tuition: ‘Because the boat has a large cuddy (sheltered area), if the weather’s bad, everyone squeezes into it. Then it goes along like a submarine. This means it’s nose down. And this means it’s very difficult to stop and very difficult to steer.

The water comes over the top and I end up drenched. You ask people to move back to balance the boat, but as soon as they start getting wet, they crowd forward. Generally, my job’s about making sure we get across the loch safely and everyone enjoys themselves.’11.15AM The 10-minute trip takes a dog-leg route to avoid a shallow part of the loch. I take the steering wheel and follow Ray’s instructions, aiming for landmarks in the distance until reaching the appropriate point to turn inward. ‘If you can drive a car, you can drive a boat,’ he says. But I can’t drive a car…

He tells me: ‘I’m the only member of the crew who is a commercially certified skipper. I did that myself because I’ve got my own yacht and my own boat, so I’d done quite a lot of boaty-type stuff before.’11.25AM We reach the island safely and Ray moors the boat. It looks like Fiona models a ‘deployed’ lifejacket (left) before learning how to ‘drive’ a boat

A trip to the island takes just 10 minutes

Lochleven Castle: small but with plenty to explore


If you can drive a car, you can drive a boat… but I can’t drive a car

quite a physical task. It’s probably beyond my abilities, but I resolve to enquire later.11.30AM The castle is small, but there are many nooks and crannies to explore. It’s hard to imagine from what’s left what it was like for Mary, Queen of Scots when she was imprisoned initially, in the Glassin Tower, but an illustration on an information sign shows how it would have looked fully furnished.

The Main Hall, says Simon, was where Mary Queen of Scots and John Knox debated the place of women in society and religion. It’s fascinating to imagine them discussing issues so long ago that are still pertinent today.NOON I look out from the hall back towards the mainland and see Ray’s boat approaching. He comes up to the castle and shows me one of his favourite spots before we set sail again.

‘We do maintenance on the island a couple of times a week, and come out before any of the visitors are here. It’s great because you do all the things like picking up goose poo and cleaning the loos, but then you can find 10 minutes to sit here in the sunshine, and the peace and tranquillity, with your flask of coffee.’

The winds have picked up a little, but fortunately we avoid a complete soaking on the journey back.12.30PM Simon gives me a tour of the ‘office’ and I try on a couple of lifejackets, including one that has been deployed. Puffy is an understatement.

Simon talks me through the team: ‘There are five of us altogether, and three of us working on any given day. Each day everyone does at least one shift in the shop, and one shift on the island or the boat. We need to keep the castle tidy as well – it’s not just about blasting people back and forth.’

He also goes over some of the technical specifications of the fleet. All three are Chevertons, with diesel engines and space for 12 passengers. They run at up to 6 knots – equivalent to around 7 miles per hour – and the same models are sometimes used by the navy for training.

We head out on a boat without passengers, for Simon to give me a more The Cheverton boats have space for 12 passengers

Ray is a certified skipper and knowledgeable guide

Moored with a ‘round turn and two

half hitches’



detailed lesson. It’s great fun, far better than a happy land-dweller could have imagined. I joke about just sailing off into the distance, but we head back for lunch instead.2PM Ray’s afternoon shift begins. Having worked on the boats this morning, he will be in the ticket office all afternoon. This gives us a chance to chat, away from the noise of the boat engine.

‘I really enjoy driving the boat and chatting to the customers. Normally if they ask about the castle, I can give them the full history from 1300 and they get the story of Mary, Queen of Scots. If I get the timing right, I get to “and they chopped her head off” just at the right time for tying the ropes on.’2.45PM It may only be the second week of the season, but the sun has brought visitors flocking today. Combined with a French school trip and Tuesday being the day the grass cutters come, the boats have been packed all day. An hour and a half before the final scheduled outward journey will set sail, Ray books in a family for the last four spots. ‘On busy days, we can be sold out by 11am. That’s one of the downsides. Sometimes you have to disappoint people.’3PM I join Ray’s colleague Rob Symons on what will be my last sailing of the day. A line of visitors has formed on the island, waiting to be ferried home.

I ask Rob if I could pose for some shots later that look like I’m mooring the boat. He laughs. ‘Why fake it?!’

Once the passengers are safely dispatched, we do a quick loop and Rob shows me how to park. I tie up the boat on the jetty poorly, and he fixes it with ‘a round turn and two half hitches’. My days as a Girl Guide were clearly wasted.

4PM I return to the ticket office to see how Ray’s afternoon has been progressing. Visitors have been in, buying postcards, a toy sword and guidebooks. I ask him what their most popular product is. ‘When we get groups of kids in, they’ll just dive on the armour there.’

A few people pop in hoping to visit the castle. Ray offers his apologies and advises them to come back tomorrow. He and his colleagues love to help and hate to disappoint. They are passionate about what they do, and their enthusiasm is infectious. ‘I think it’s one of the best jobs in the world. I get to play with boats and blether to people,’ he says. 4.30PM With Simon and Rob ferrying the last visitors back from the island, and Ray cashing up, it’s time for me to go. As if on cue, a beautiful, bright rainbow appears, protruding from Lochleven Castle island – a stunning view to end a wonderful day.

A BRIEF GUIDE TO THE BOAT DASHBOARD

Ray: ‘You have the throttle there in your right hand – that basically controls your speed – and you’ve got your steering wheel going left and right. As you move the throttle, you’ll see the rev

counter move: that tells you what speed the engine’s doing. Alongside that you have an oil pressure gauge, which tells you that your engine is pumping sufficient oil so that it’s not going to seize

up. There is also a temperature gauge. These boats are water cooled, so they take in loch water and pass it through the engine and exhaust system. If you go flat out on one of

the boats, it lifts up slightly and doesn’t pick up enough water. The other one is the voltmeter and that’s just telling you that you’re putting enough charge in the battery.’

I think it’s one of the best jobs in the world. I get to play with boatsand blether to people

Rainbow over Loch Leven


EMAIL: [email protected]

VOUCHER MISSING?

SCOTLA NDBATTLE STATION

A CENTURY AFTER THE OUTBREAK OF THE FIRST WORLD WAR, ALLAN CARSWELL UNCOVERS THE HISTORIC SCOTLAND PROPERTIES INVOLVED IN THE CONFLICT

Seaforth Highlanders snatch some respite


H I S T O R Y

STIRLING CASTLE

FORT GEORGE

EDINBURGH CASTLE

DUMBARTON CASTLE

INCHCOLM ABBEY

BLACKNESS CASTLE

TRINITY HOUSE

FEATURING

As thousands of Scots joined the army, and as the Royal Navy’s Grand Fleet sailed from its Scottish bases,

the First World War took hold of many of Scotland’s most famous buildings. Given the country’s turbulent past, it was no coincidence that many of these had been in military use for centuries and their brief occupation between 1914 and 1918 was therefore just another layer to an already crowded history – one that was quickly covered over and largely forgotten.

That summer of 1914 had been a particularly busy time for the staff of the regimental depot of the Argyll and Sutherland Highlanders at Stirling Castle. Besides the usual comings and goings of recruits, the regiment’s permanent home had seen the appointment of a new regimental Royal Colonel-in-Chief – Princess Louise, the Duchess of Argyll, and Queen Victoria’s fourth daughter. In July, the officers of the depot were in attendance when her nephew, King George V, and Queen Mary visited Stirling Castle as part of a tour of Scotland. Meanwhile, events in Europe, which had begun at the end of June as a small cloud on the

SCOTLA NDGE

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ANS


horizon, were accelerating into a full-blown crisis.

On 30 July, the depot was put on standby for a possible mobilisation of the army. All leave was cancelled and the stores at the castle, containing the weapons and clothing needed to kit out more than a thousand reservists, were checked and prepared.

However, the depot had other obligations that could not be broken. The date of 4 August 1914 may now be remembered for Great Britain declaring war on Germany, but it was also the day of the castle’s annual garden party. In the laconic words of the depot’s official record of service, ‘As the last guest was leaving, the order to mobilise the 3rd (Reserve) Battalion and the Depot was received… Britain declared war on Germany at midnight August 4/5th’. The world would never be the same again.

The order to mobilise had also been received at Edinburgh Castle and Fort George where the 1st Battalion Cameron Highlanders and the 2nd Battalion Argyll and Sutherland Highlanders, respectively, were stationed. In under a week, both battalions had been brought up to their wartime strength of just over a thousand men and had left for France. Soon, both garrisons, together with depots of all the Scottish regiments,

A recent survey has revealed wartime remains across Scotland and helped encourage a drive to record new sites, explains Senior Designations Officer Kevin Munro.

In 2013, Historic Scotland and the Royal Commission on the Ancient and Historical Monuments of Scotland (RCAHMS) commissioned Dr Gordon Barclay to carry out an audit of these remains.

The project brought to light almost 1,000 sites, ranging from coast artillery batteries, air stations and drill halls to hospitals and prisoner-of-war camps. A report on the project, ‘The Built Heritage of the First World War in Scotland’, is available to download from the National Monuments Record of Scotland,

Canmore database.The project was a

great success as a first step in identifying, recording and protecting wartime remains within Scotland. However, plans and records for many sites have been lost, while others have not yet had their wartime role identified. Local knowledge can help uncover information about known and

unknown sites – from new surveys through to analysis of personal diaries, letters and photographs to reveal fresh details of the history of these locations. To that end, Historic Scotland, RCAHMS, Archaeology Scotland and ALGAO Scotland are collaborating with the Council for British Archaeology (CBA) on the Home

Front Legacy 1914-18, a UK-wide volunteer project to record new sites and enhance the information available on places that played a role in the Great War.

The project, launched in March by Dan Snow, President of the CBA, will run throughout the First World War centenary. It is an opportunity for local groups and others to learn more about their wartime heritage, and to share information with a much wider audience. The results will also become part of the Canmore database, and the local authority Historic Environment Records.

View the Canmore database at www.rcahms.gov.uk/firstworldwar

For details on the Home Front Legacy project, visit www.homefrontlegacy.org.uk

ADVANCING THE HOME FRONT

Ness Battery, Orkney (middle) and North Sutor (above)

North Berwick pillbox

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H I S T O R Y

older sites, such as Dumbarton Castle, being brought back into use, at least temporarily, and to the establishment of many provisional camps and training schools across the country.

The second wartime priority led to a massive increase in coastal fortifications. A spate of German naval attacks in 1914 had exposed the vulnerability of the east coast, forcing

were swamped by recruits responding to Field Marshal Kitchener’s initial appeal for 100,000 new troops.

Meanwhile, Scotland’s territorial units had also mobilised and many would soon be on their way to the front, while the rest moved to their war stations to guard Scotland’s coasts, especially around the naval bases at Rosyth, Cromarty and Scapa Flow.

STRATEGIC ROLE

A s the first flood of volunteers began to slow down, the military reassessed Scotland’s strategic

situation. Three things were critical: the flow of manpower to the front had to be kept up, requiring more accommodation and training facilities; Scotland’s naval bases had to be better defended in the face of new threats, the deadliest of which was the submarine; and output from Scotland’s munitions industry had to be maintained and increased.

The first of these priorities led to a quick turnover of newly formed units coming and going from Scotland’s main garrisons. It also meant the arrival of the first overseas troops, men from Newfoundland who arrived at Fort George and Edinburgh Castle in the winter of 1914-15. The pressure for barrack accommodation also led to

Dumbarton Castle

Inchcolm Island

Men in training at Fort Charlotte in Lerwick,

Shetland


WAR AND PEACEMILESTONES ALONG THE TIMELINE OF THE FIRST WORLD WAR

19 FEBRUARY 1915The 1st Battalion of the Royal Newfoundland Regiment moves from Fort George to Edinburgh Castle to carry out guard duties

4 AUGUST 1914 Great Britain declares war on Germany on the same day as Stirling Castle holds its annual garden party

24 DECEMBER 1914Springburn Hospital opens in the north of Glasgow It has 400 beds, an operating theatre and x-ray room as well as recreation areas, sitting rooms and bedrooms

22 MAY 1915Members of the 7th Battalion of the Royal Scots are among those killed in a train crash at Quintinshill near Gretna

191430 DECEMBER 1915The Royal Navy cruiser HMS Natal explodes in the Cromarty Firth with the loss of around 400 lives

1915

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Bell tower of Cambuskenneth Abbey

The former Cunard liner Campania was converted into an aircraft carrier in 1915. She sank in the Firth of Forth after a collision in 1918


the navy to shift forces south from Scapa Flow in Orkney to the Forth. The peace of Inchcolm Island was shattered as artillery batteries and searchlight positions were constructed. Even the buildings of the old monastery were occupied as living accommodation for some of the hundreds of soldiers who arrived to man the defences. As the war wore on, the importance of the Forth as a naval base increased. A special research station was established nearby at Hawkcraig to develop ways of detecting enemy submarines through the use of listening devices, or ‘hydrophones’, and defences on Inchcolm were also heavily strengthened in 1916.

Other locations along the Forth were adapted to naval or military use. The pre-war ammunition depot at Blackness Castle was taken over by the navy for a period in 1916 before becoming an army driving school in 1919.

Many fishing vessels operating from the Forth were also pressed into service as tenders, minesweepers or armed trawlers. Local merchant ships were essential to the war effort, moving supplies and materials, with many lost to German submarines. A remarkable record of this aspect of the war can be seen in the collections at Trinity House in Leith and in the building’s memorial stained glass window.

APRIL 1916The Mons Shell Factory at the Atlas Works of the North British Locomotive Company, Glasgow, is dedicated to producing war materials

5 JUNE 1916The HMS Hampshire sinks off Marwick Head after striking a German mine. Field Marshal Earl Kitchener, the Minister of War, is one of the 600 fatalities

9 JULY 1917The HMS Vanguard is destroyed while anchored at Scapa Flow when the cordite in one of the magazines explodes by accident

4 MARCH 1918The Prince of Wales and Sir W Macewen visit wounded soldiers during a visit to Clydeside

In addition to manning the coastal fortifications, a significant number of troops were required to protect the naval bases from possible invasion and these were based around the firths of Forth, Tay and Cromarty. By 1918, the Commander-in-Chief of the army in Scotland, Lieutenant General Sir John Spencer Ewart, described the Forth, with justification, as ‘the greatest and strongest naval base in the world’.

The naval battles in the North Sea also brought in a steady stream of German prisoners, many of whom were held at Fort George and Edinburgh Castle. At the latter, the prisoners joined many

German civilians interned at the castle awaiting repatriation or long-term confinement, occupying the same vaults as French and American sailors a hundred years earlier.

By 1916 another of Edinburgh Castle’s former roles, that of state prison, had been reactivated. The enforcement of new working conditions, intended to increase munitions production, had led to strikes and political unrest, especially in the Glasgow area. A nervous government reacted, encouraging the military authorities to detain trade union leaders and known activists. At least two of these, John Maclean and David

1916 19182 APRIL 1916Unable to reach the Rosyth naval base due to the defences, Kapitan Alois Bocker and two Zeppelins bomb Edinburgh and Leith instead

1917

Blackness Castle: used by the navy in 1916

21 NOVEMBER 1918 The German fleet surrenders to Admiral Beatty in the Forth

15 MAY 1918A German U-boat U90 fires off the Island of Hirta, St Kilda. It struck the naval signal station on the island

Sir Spencer Ewart described the Forth as ‘thegreatest and strongest naval base in the world’


Kirkwood, spent time in the deepest cells in the castle in a none-too-subtle attempt at intimidation.

PUTTING THE PAST BEHIND US

A fter 1918, the physical evidence of much of this activity quickly began to disappear. There is no

particular mystery to this – it happens at the end of all wars. There was, however, a sense of urgency in the need to obliterate any trace of the military’s presence from many sites referred to here. Scotland’s past was now to have no interface with the grim realities of modern war. It was to be neat and distinct, remote from the upheavals and traumas of the previous four years.

One by one, Inchcolm, Dumbarton and Blackness were heavily restored in the 1920s, becoming ‘ancient monuments’ – stripped back and stripped out. Of course, future generations have gained

much through this process, but perhaps something was lost along the way – a sense of their evolution, perhaps some outward sign of their untidy humanity.

At Edinburgh Castle, the process of ‘demilitarisation’ took a slightly different turn with the proposal in 1917 to create a national museum and a memorial to the war. However, this was never going to be about howitzers and trenches, like the new Imperial War Museum in London. Instead, the entire castle was to become a national shrine to Scotland’s past. In the end, this never happened, but the creators of the war memorial and its accompanying museum succeeded in subsuming the sacrifices of the war within an older military tradition, one of tartan, gold and scarlet, rather than khaki and battleship grey.

The 100th anniversary of the war has afforded the opportunity to revisit the recent history of these locations. As well as providing a better understanding of their wartime role, it has underlined their continuing relevance to Scotland’s story.

Evidence of the First World War and the men and women who played a part in it can be found across Scotland, and this is the subject of Scotland’s First World War, a new book published by Historic Scotland. Illustrated with previously forgotten and unpublished wartime plans, beautiful new photography and contemporary photographs and quotes, the book is one of the first to focus on Scotland’s built heritage of the war as a whole, from coast and air defences to hospitals and

prisoner-of-war camps.

Scotland’s First World War explores the places where a hundred years ago men and women joined and took part in the war effort. It examines where they trained, where they stood up for their rights, and where they defended their country against the enemy. It also looks at how major industries grew up to supply the front lines, where men recovered from their wounds before returning to the front and where some of them were finally laid to rest.

CHRONICLING SCOTS AT WAR

Scotland’sFirst World War

ABOVE National War Memorial for Scotland at Edinburgh Castle LEFT US troops march through Perth in 1918

Scotland’s First World War is available from all good booksellers for £11.99. However, members can get a 20 per cent discount and free postage and packaging by ordering through Booksource. Phone 0845 370 0067 or email [email protected], quoting the code HISTORIC 20. AL

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New Victoria by Heritage

ShipTO

shoreINDIRA MANN explores Orkney’s strategic maritime setting and the

rich, diverse and turbulent history that helped create it

Skara Brae

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Indira took the ferry from

Aberdeen to the Orkney Mainland

TOUR NOTES

As I stepped on to dry land I experienced a sense of relief, and anticipation, which seafarers of old might have felt at journey’s end. The big boat that brought me from Aberdeen to Kirkwall on Orkney’s Mainland had bucked and rolled in the swells created by a brisk southwesterly. It is one of many ships, over thousands of years, to have reached safe anchorage here. So how much has Orkney’s maritime setting shaped its past? I was about to find out.

Orkney, and Scapa Flow in particular, will be in many people’s minds this year as we commemorate the dark days of the First World War. The islands and their population were transformed when Britain’s Grand Fleet assembled its war machinery in and around this enormous natural harbour.

A nexus between the North Atlantic and the North Sea, it has, since at least Viking times, provided access to vital maritime routes from a secure shelter.

O U T & A B O U T O R K N E Y

INDIRA MANNis a former

archaeologist and interpretive planner

turned journalist with a lifelong love of

Scotland's castles and wild places.

Indira is currently working for a

research partnership based in Edinburgh

Scapa FlowThe visitor centre documents the

centuries of travel, trade and conflict

on this stretch of water

Hackness Martello Tower Built between 1813

and 1815 to provide defence

against privateers

The Bishop's and Earl's

PalacesThe palaces

highlight Orkney’s diverse history

Broch of Gurness

The village at Gurness is the

best preserved of all broch villages

Skara Brae Uncovered by a storm in 1850,

Skara Brae presents a picture of life five

thousand years ago


SCAPA FLOW VISITOR CENTRE & MUSEUM

I headed first on another ferry to the island of Hoy. The landscape here is dotted with concrete pill boxes, gun

emplacements and Nissen huts, many of these have survived since the Second World War. Some structures lie empty, while others have been put to new uses – including the First World War fuel pumping station at Lyness, which now houses the Scapa Flow Visitor Centre & Museum.

A muster point for artefacts and archival material, it includes salvaged items from the scuttled German First World War fleet. While peace talks rumbled on into 1919, Rear Admiral Von Reuter grew nervous about the fate of his warships, which were corralled there. On 21 June 1919, he ordered his men to open the seacocks and let the water pour in. One by one, 52 German warships sank to the seabed.

An ambitious salvage operation in the 1920s and 1930s recovered all but seven ships. Today, the wrecks of the three battleships, three light cruisers and a fast minelayer provide a unique underwater experience. Divers are, of course, encouraged to dive responsibly


Historic Scotland has documented finds at Scapa Flow

Heading over Scapa Flow

ABOVE Kirkwall HarbourLEFT Hackness Martello Tower BELOW Indira at the top of the tower

DIG IN! SCAPA FLOW 2013 MARINE ARCHAEOLOGY SURVEY PROJECT

In 2013, Historic Scotland commissioned an archaeological survey of underwater sites within Scapa Flow and around the Churchill Barriers. The archaeologists were to focus on 28 known sites, which

had not been recorded in detail.

The survey was to identify and assess the condition of sites of First and Second World War wrecks, salvages, and Second World War boom defences.

The Scapa Flow 2013 Marine

Archaeology Survey Project is now complete, and the results have been uploaded to www.scapaflowwrecks.com. There is a host of new information on, for example, the blockships, which were sunk by the Admiralty to keep

German shipping out of Scapa Flow. There are also images of HMS Roedean, a converted minesweeper that hit a mine at Hoxa Head in 1915, and the Clestrain Hurdles installed during the First World War.

and leave these wartime relics undisturbed given their status as scheduled monuments of national importance.

HACKNESS MARTELLO TOWER

A secure harbour is only as good as its defences, so First World War navy personnel were

drafted in to operate booms – long cables stretched between ships – and anti-submarine nets that would deter

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BISHOP’S PALACE AND EARL’S PALACE

T he Orkney islands were once at the heart of trading routes linking Norway and Denmark

to Scotland and Ireland. For centuries, Kirkwall was the capital of the Norse earldom known as the Nordreyjar, or Northern Isles. It was the perfect harbour for the Vikings, who favoured a shallow bay for their longships, and by the 11th century it had become a bustling, prosperous jarl’s (earl’s) residence with its own church and a marketplace facing the open sea.

Next to the beautiful St Magnus Cathedral in Kirkwall stand the Bishop’s Palace and Earl’s Palace. These neighbouring buildings were adapted over centuries to meet the needs of their inhabitants. The original palace is thought to have been built in the 12th century for William of Old, the bishop who would take charge of St Magnus Cathedral, also under construction at that time. It was extended in 1540.

I was intrigued by the Nordic flavour to place names and dialect, which cohabit easily with Scots turns of phrase. The suffix “quoy” in a street name is one throwback, apparently Old Norse for cattle pen. Despite centuries of Scottish rule, strong links between Scandinavia and Orkney endure. Norway’s Constitution Day in June is celebrated on the islands, and several Norwegian composers and musicians will cross the water for this year’s St Magnus Festival.

ORKNEY THROUGH THE

YEARS

c.3100-2500 BCSkara Brae built

c.3100-2900 BCStones of Stenness

erected

c.2600 BCRing of Brodgar built

c.600-100 BCBrochs built

c.AD 800Vikings begin to arrive

1263Battle of Largs, King

Haakon dies

1468King Christian I of Denmark pledges

Orkney to James III

1850Storm reveals

remains of Skara Brae

1919Scuttling of German

WW1 fleet in Scapa Flow

1940WW2 under way,

building of Churchill Barriers begins

enemy vessels from entering Scapa Flow. Some were billeted at Hackness Martello Tower, at the south-eastern tip of Hoy, which was my next port of call.

Begun in 1813, it was built to provide military muscle for convoys of merchant shipping against France (the Napoleonic Wars had two years to run) and the American Fenian Brotherhood, who were fighting for America’s independence. These threats never materialised, but the defences are still impressive.

On my way to the tower’s rooftop, I noticed graffiti up the stairwell. Closer inspection revealed the names of the boom operators and signallers stationed here during the two world wars. The reality of conflict, and the people caught up in it, came into sharp focus.

Later that day, I drove to Scapa Bay where HMS Royal Oak lies beneath the water – a buoy marking its location. The sinking of the battleship by a German U-boat in 1939, with the loss of 834 lives, exposed gaps in the Royal Navy’s strategy. The Admiralty rued the day it had dismantled First World War defences, and set about building barriers to block access to the Flow. The Churchill Barriers, named after the wartime leader, were created from 10-tonne concrete blocks.

The Earl's Palace


1

HACKNESS MARTELLO TOWER

is located on the island of Hoy, accessible by ferry

from the mainland2

SCAPA FLOW VISITOR CENTRE & MUSEUM

in Lyness is also located on the island of Hoy. This

is not run by Historic Scotland and is normally

open from April to October3

BISHOP’S PALACE AND EARL’S PALACE

are in Kirkwall, a short distance from the ferry

port and 3 miles from the airport

4

BROCH OF GURNESS is a 16-mile drive

north-west from Kirkwall5 .

SKARA BRAEis 17 miles west of

Kirkwall

2

EXPLORE

SHUT

TERS

TOCK

The Northern Isles may have passed to Scotland, but their distance from Edinburgh meant the earls of Orkney held a firm grip on power. The Earl's Palace was created in the early 1600s by Earl Patrick, whose father Earl Robert was gifted Orkney by his half-sister Mary Queen of Scots.. The upper levels are a wonderful vantage point, with views across the Peedie Sea to the north-west – where the Viking longships once came and went – and Scapa Flow to the south.

I admired many of the building's ornate features, but it was impossible to ignore the gun loops. This may have been a comfortable home, but it was also a defensive structure where Earl Patrick’s 50-strong bodyguard was housed. Perhaps his flagrant use of “slave” labour earned him enemies – at his trial it was claimed that he put the inhabitants through 'all sorts of servile and painful labour, without either meat, drink or hire' – but when his son launched the doomed Kirkwall Rebellion of 1614 many Orcadians fell in behind him.

BROCH OF GURNESS

T he weather gods were kind on the day I visited two of Orkney’s prehistoric jewels. I drove

north-west from Kirkwall to the Broch of Gurness, a remarkable surviving

example of an Iron Age settlement overlooking Eynhallow Sound with what can only be described as a stronghold at its core. Yet is this a correct assessment?

Archaeological analysis alludes to Orkney being a centre of power and influence in north-west Europe. Fragments of a Roman amphora have been found at Gurness, and that points to trade and transport. By sea, naturally. The truth is that we will never know for certain, so it was wonderful to stand in that ancient landscape discussing our own theories about brochs and the people who lived in them.

SKARA BRAE

M y final destination was the Bay of Skaill and the Neolithic village of Skara Brae. One

might be forgiven for thinking that these Neolithic people put down roots five thousand years ago on the shores of the Atlantic to make full use of its bounty. But an interactive display in the visitor centre graphically showed how the ocean has eaten into a farming landscape with its freshwater lochs. Even before storms exposed the site to antiquarian eyes, some of the buildings had been washed away by coastal erosion. Today, Historic Scotland must perform a balancing act of allowing access for thousands of visitors while keeping the elements at bay to ensure the survival of this incomparable monument.

Tide and time wait for no man and, far too soon, I was seated on an aeroplane bound for Edinburgh. The islands were laid out like a map and I realised that I had only dipped a toe into their extraordinary past. As for the future, Orkney’s seas are poised to yield treasure of a different kind, in the form of renewable energy. The Northern Isles may have yet another role to play in Europe's fortunes.

TOP AND ABOVE Skara BraeBELOW Broch of Gurness

1

3

45


2A personal copy of

Historic Scotland magazine posted out four times a year

direct to your door.

3Half-price entry into

500 heritage attractions in England, Wales and on the

Isle of Man.

FIVE REASONS TO BECOME A MEMBER

5Discounts on Historic Scotland

products and dining events.

4A chance to take part in

member activities – including tours, lectures and lunches.

I f you enjoy your Historic Scotland membership, now’s the time to tell your friends

and family. They can enjoy great days out all year round, and our Member Get Member scheme means they’ll save 20% on their membership fee when they join. Paying by direct debit is great value

too, and with 20% off the annual cost a concession membership is only £2.43 a month.

MEMBER GET MEMBER SCHEMEThere are two ways to take advantage of the Member Get Member scheme:l Ask your friend or family

member to call 0131 668 8999. Tell them to quote your membership number and mention the Member Get Member offer. We can then process their discounted-rate membership over the phone. l Go to any staffed Historic Scotland attraction with your

friend or family member and show your membership card. Your friend can sign up at the discounted rate. Terms and conditions apply. For new annual membership only. Not available for renewals or life membership. See www.historic-scotland.gov.uk/member for details.

SPECIAL OFFER

RECOMMEND US TO YOUR FRIENDS AND FAMILY

1Free entry to more than 70 of

Scotland’s top heritage attractions.


FOR FULL DETAILS Pick up your events guide at any of our properties or visit

www.historic-scotland.gov.uk/events

DAYTIME EVENTS ARE FREE TO MEMBERS,UNLESS OTHERWISE STATED

LOTS OF EXCITING THINGS TO DO RIGHT ACROSS SCOTLAND

EVENTSJUNE-SEPTEMBER

Toilets Restaurant / café Gift shop Reasonable wheelchair access Dogs not permitted Parking

SUMMER SPECIALS

As this massive year for the nation rolls on, Historic Scotland’s main summer contributions to Homecoming Scotland bring

together heraldry and horsemanship with two stunning events that capture our history in vivid and entertaining ways.

FIND OUT MORE You can keep up to date with our Homecoming activity at www.historic-scotland.gov.uk/homecoming


SPECTACULAR JOUSTINGLINLITHGOW PALACE

Sat 5-Sun 6 July,12.30pm-4.30pm0131 668 8885, www.historic-scotland.gov.uk/jousting

Our daring knights return to the magnificent setting of Linlithgow Palace Peel to stage an unforgettable display of horsemanship and skill. Hear the thunder of hooves and the crack of lances splintering as our knights battle it out in the arena. Enjoy a full programme of supporting activities with shows and presentations in the Palace and on the Peel. Wander through the bustling camps and see the exciting foot combat and living history displays.

CELEBRATION OF THE CENTURIESFORT GEORGE

Sat 9-Sun 10 August,11am-5pm0131 668 8885, www.historic-scotland.gov.uk/celebration

Set in one of the finest military fortifications in Europe the 2014 Celebration of the Centuries event will cover more than 2,000 years of Scottish history. This flagship event of Historic Scotland’s calendar presents visitors with a colourful, vibrant and immersive experience, including an aerial display and more than 250 performers. As part of Homecoming Scotland 2014 the event will have special emphasis on marking the 100th anniversary of the outbreak of the First World War.


ABOVE Watch the thrills and spills of knightly combat at Linlithgow Palace

Celebration of the Centuries at Fort George will have a special focus on the First World War

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HS276 Historic Scotland 279x210.indd 1 5/20/14 12:58 PM


JUNE

OLIVIA IRVINE - COMING HOMEDUFF HOUSE

Daily until Sun 27 July11am-5pm

In this year of Homecoming Scotland, Olivia Irvine’s exhibition will look at the theme of Coming Home. Her paintings are heavily influenced by rooms, gardens, holidays – places the artist has visited or in which she has lived.

RING OF BRODGAR WALK RING OF BRODGAR

Daily in June, July and August, every Thu in September, 1pm01856 841 [email protected]

An easy walk around the Ring of Brodgar exploring the archaeology and natural environment. Discover wildlife and the significant role the area plays in the Heart of Neolithic Orkney World Heritage Site.

ARTHUR’S AMBLEHOLYROOD PARK

Mon 2, 16 and 30 June, Mon 14 and 28 July, Mon 4 August, [email protected] or 0131 652 8150

Join a gentle guided walk around Hunter’s Bog and St Margaret’s Loch to learn more about Arthur’s Seat’s past. Find out about the people who lived and worked here, and the wildlife that makes the park so special. Booking essential.

DÜRER’S FAME DUFF HOUSE

Daily until Sun 13 July, 11am-5pm

Explore the work of celebrated 16th-century German artist Albrecht Dürer. The exhibition at Duff House, with the National Galleries of Scotland, includes many of Dürer’s famous prints.

STANDING STONES OF STENNESS WALKSTANDING STONES OF STENNESS

Every Mon, Wed and Fri in June, July and August, every Wed in September, 10am01856 841 [email protected]

Join an easy guided tour of our oldest stone circle and explore the fascinating links with the nearby Neolithic village of Barnhouse. Discover the significant role the area plays in the Heart of Neolithic Orkney World Heritage Site.

ARTHUR’S SECRETSHOLYROOD PARK

Every Tue in June and July, Mon 11 August, 1pm-3pm

[email protected] or 0131 652 8150

Join a moderate guided walk to learn more about Arthur’s Seat’s turbulent past, created by fire and ice. Find out about the people who lived and worked here from 7,000 years ago to the present day, and more about the rare wildlife that lives in the park. Booking essential. THE THREE ESTATES COSTUME EXHIBITIONSTIRLING CASTLE

Daily from Sat 7 June-Sun 28 September, 9.30am-6pm0131 668 8885 or [email protected]

Admire the detail and mastery in the costumes created for last year’s performances of A Satire of the Three Estates. Gain an insight into Sir David Lyndsay’s epic political drama and the project that brought it back to life.

ARTHUR’S ADVENTUREHOLYROOD PARK

Mon 9 and 23 June, Mon 7, 21 July, [email protected] or 0131 652 8150

Join us for a challenging guided walk to learn about the past of Arthur’s Seat. Find out who used the park in ancient times right up to today. This is a strenuous walk and will involve steep inclines and rough terrain. Booking essential.

Costumes take centre stage in the Satire of the Three Estates exhibition, Stirling Castle

Dürer’s Fame at Duff House until 13 July

Join a ranger-led walk to learn more about Holyrood Park’s fascinating history and wildlife


NAT

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RIES

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LAN

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THE ORIGINAL SHOP IN ENGLAND

Since 1887 F.W. Tyson have specialised inCOUNTRY and MOUNTAIN footwear for theconnoisseur. Today the same ideas of high

quality and first class service are observed asthey were 127 years ago. All footwear is fitted

by our experienced staff, who willrecommend the shoes or boots you require from

the information you supply at the time ofpurchase. With the demise of the British shoe

industry we searched for a number of years fora range of country shoes that could match thestandards we require for fit, comfort and wear.

HAND CRAFTED SHOES IN TOPQUALITY LEATHERS. ILLUSTRATED

BROCHURE AVAILABLE UPON REQUEST

Market Place, Ambleside, Cumbria LA22 9BUTel: 015394 33329

Email: [email protected]

BARRACUDAA GORE-TEX linedand GUARANTEED WATERPROOFshoe in brown orblack leather. Deep tread soles andMEPHISTO air bag shock absorber in theheel for instant comfort. Sizes 5½ -13½,including ½ sizes. £159.95

RAINBOWThe MEPHISTO shoewe have sold forover 30 years.Black or brown calf uppers, with shockabsorbing mid-sole, cushioned heelseat, padded tongue and ankles add upto extreme comfort. Available in sizerange 5-12½, including ½ sizes. £149.95

NIROLighter than a shoe,stronger than a sandal. Soft suede and mesh uppers, with twovelcro straps to adjust for width and length,and cushioned foot beds provide for extremecomfort, with a superb shock absorber inthe heel. Size range 3-8 including ½ sizes.Available in navy blue, black or white. £89.95

ALLIGATORA sandal made for exceptional comfortdue to the cushioned insole and theMEPHISTO shock absorbing soleand heel unit.Availablesizes 40 - 47,in brown.£89.95

LAGOONAWith the three adjustable velcro straps,this sandal gives extreme comfort. Theshock absorber in the heel, reduces theimpact of walking on the joints,back and legs. Available inblack or white,in size range 36 - 42.£79.95

MENS LADIES

WANDACushioned mid-soles andthe MEPHISTO AIRBAGshock absorber forthe heel for extremecomfort. Available in black, navy,brown and burgundy leather with blacktrim. Available in size range 3-9including ½ sizes. £125.00

For more styles online, visit www.fwtyson.co.uk

tysons_NT_SCOTLANDadvert_Layout 1 09/04/2014 11:31 Page 1

THE ORIGINAL SHOP IN ENGLAND

Since 1887 F.W. Tyson have specialised inCOUNTRY and MOUNTAIN footwear for theconnoisseur. Today the same ideas of high

quality and first class service are observed asthey were 127 years ago. All footwear is fitted

by our experienced staff, who willrecommend the shoes or boots you require from

the information you supply at the time ofpurchase. With the demise of the British shoe

industry we searched for a number of years fora range of country shoes that could match thestandards we require for fit, comfort and wear.

HAND CRAFTED SHOES IN TOPQUALITY LEATHERS. ILLUSTRATED

BROCHURE AVAILABLE UPON REQUEST

Market Place, Ambleside, Cumbria LA22 9BUTel: 015394 33329

Email: [email protected]

BARRACUDAA GORE-TEX linedand GUARANTEED WATERPROOFshoe in brown orblack leather. Deep tread soles andMEPHISTO air bag shock absorber in theheel for instant comfort. Sizes 5½ -13½,including ½ sizes. £159.95

RAINBOWThe MEPHISTO shoewe have sold forover 30 years.Black or brown calf uppers, with shockabsorbing mid-sole, cushioned heelseat, padded tongue and ankles add upto extreme comfort. Available in sizerange 5-12½, including ½ sizes. £149.95

NIROLighter than a shoe,stronger than a sandal. Soft suede and mesh uppers, with twovelcro straps to adjust for width and length,and cushioned foot beds provide for extremecomfort, with a superb shock absorber inthe heel. Size range 3-8 including ½ sizes.Available in navy blue, black or white. £89.95

ALLIGATORA sandal made for exceptional comfortdue to the cushioned insole and theMEPHISTO shock absorbing soleand heel unit.Availablesizes 40 - 47,in brown.£89.95

LAGOONAWith the three adjustable velcro straps,this sandal gives extreme comfort. Theshock absorber in the heel, reduces theimpact of walking on the joints,back and legs. Available inblack or white,in size range 36 - 42.£79.95

MENS LADIES

WANDACushioned mid-soles andthe MEPHISTO AIRBAGshock absorber forthe heel for extremecomfort. Available in black, navy,brown and burgundy leather with blacktrim. Available in size range 3-9including ½ sizes. £125.00

For more styles online, visit www.fwtyson.co.uk

tysons_NT_SCOTLANDadvert_Layout 1 09/04/2014 11:31 Page 1

Brochure on request

FW Tyson_HS_Summer_14.indd 1 19/05/2014 10:24

The Jewellery, Watch and Clock repair company

MARTINS OF GLASGOW

REPAIR OF QUALITY WATCHESOmega, Longines, Tag Heuer, Carti er, Jaeger, I.W.C., etc.Also Seiko, Rotary, Avia and all other popular makes

REPAIR & RESTORATION OF VINTAGE & ANTIQUE TIMEPIECESPre-war wristwatches & all types of fob watches, Fusees, repeaters, automatons, etc

REPAIR & RESTORATION OF QUALITY CLOCKS, BAROGRAPHS & ALL TYPES OF BAROMETERSGrandfather, grandmother, Regulators, Bracket and other wall & mantle clocks

REPAIR, RESTORATION & REMODELLING OF JEWELLERYChain soldering, ring resizing, replacement of missing stones, pearl & bead restringing

REPAIR & RESTORATION OF ALL MANNER OF SILVER & PLATEEngraving service. Inscripti ons on trophies or rings to family or clan seal engraving.

1158 MARYHILL ROAD, MARYHILL, GLASGOW G20 9TATel: +44 (0)141 946 6333marti n@marti nsjewellers.co.uk www.marti nsjewellers.co.uk

We are pleased to off er the following services:

The British Watch andClock Makers Guild

Martins_HS_Spring13.indd 1 11/02/2013 17:28

Available exclusively from

18 St John Street Perth (01738) [email protected]

Send for our complimentary brochure.

The Mark ofHeritage andCraftsmanshipCairncross has served the people ofPerth since 1869, and it is with pridethat we present the unique Perth kiltpin, beautifully crafted in silver.

The pin, featuring a flowing, Celtic inspireddesign to reflect the meandering River Tay,is topped by Perth’s emblem - the doubleheaded imperial eagle.

Cairncross have been granted permission bythe Edinburgh Assay Office to revive the townmark, which was used by Perth silversmithsin the 18th century and is now stamped onthe reverse of these superb kilt pins.


BANNOCKBURN TO BOTHWELLBOTHWELL CASTLE

Sun 15 June, 12pm-4pm

The day after the Battle of Bannockburn Edward Bruce arrived at Bothwell Castle to force the English commander Humphrey de Bohun, Earl of Hereford to surrender. Witness the outcome of this intense stand-off.

WILDFLOWER WANDERRING OF BRODGAR

Sun 15 June, Sun 13 and 27 July, 2.30pm01856 841 [email protected]

This easy guided walk around Brodgar’s beautiful wildflower meadow will explore how it is being cared for and managed.

THE RISE OF THE STEWARTSDUNDONALD CASTLE

Sun 22 June, 12pm-4pm01563 851489

In the late 13th century Dundonald Castle lay in ruins but out of the ashes rose the Stewart family. Hear about their influential role, experience daily medieval life and witness exciting combat displays.

WITHIN THESE WALLS HOLYROOD PARK

Sun 22 June, 27 July and 24 August, [email protected] or 0131 652 8150

Built in the 1540s by James V of Scotland, the five miles of boundary wall has its own story to tell. Find out more about this fabulous location. Booking essential.

SCOTTISH CHAMBER ORCHESTRADUNBLANE CATHEDRAL

Fri 27 June, 8pm

Tickets range from £5 to £18, adult Historic Scotland members £15 Tickets from Albert Halls Box Office 01786 473544

The Scottish Chamber Orchestra presents an evening of joyous classical works, led by conductor Richard Egarr.

OPEN DAYKINNEIL HOUSE

Sat 28 June, Sun 31 August, 12pm- 3pm

Kinneil House opens its doors for some special tours.

JULY

GEORGE’S MARVELLOUS MEDICINE BY ROALD DAHLDUFF HOUSE

Fri 11 July, doors 5.45pm for 6.30pm start

Adults £12, concessions £10, children £8, family £35, 10% member discountTickets from Duff House or at www.illyria.uk.com

It’s the first day of half-term and George’s grandma is coming to stay. She is horrible, so George creates a special concoction to give to her – with hilarious results. Illyria returns with another Roald Dahl classic full of (literally) larger-than-life characters. Suitable for all ages 5+.

MACBETHELGIN CATHEDRAL

Thu 17 July, doors 6.45pm for 7.30pm startAdults £14, concessions £12, children £10, family £42, 10% member discountTickets from Elgin Cathedral or www.illyria.uk.com

A brave military hero, a devoted subject to his king, Macbeth is


FRAGMENTS OF GOLDGLASGOW CATHEDRAL

Sat 30 August, 7pmAdults £15, concessions £13, children £10, 10% member discount0131 668 8885 or [email protected]

Join us for the world premiere of new music by internationally renowned artist Goldie, taking place in the magnificent surroundings of Glasgow Cathedral. This highly ambitious event is the conclusion of the Fragments Project, a journey that began in the great Borders abbeys with new music and art, all inspired by the recent discovery of a remarkable and precious piece of a 12th-century book: the Hawick Missal Fragment.

Dunblane Cathedral plays host to the SCO

Bothwell Castle

www.euppublishing.com

NEW in Paperback from EUPA Military History of ScotlandEdited by Edward Spiers, Jeremy Crang and Matthew Strickland

An unparalleled insight into the evolution of the Scottish military tradition over more than two millennia

June 2014 • 922ppPb 978 0 7486 9449 5

£24.99

The Edinburgh FestivalsAngela Bartie

A history of the formative years of The Edinburgh Festivals as the world’s largest arts festival

May 2014 • 272ppPb 978 0 7486 9405 1 £19.99

Melfort Pier & HarbourAn ideal touring base for the historical sites for the Highlands and Islands.

Explore this picturesque area ,it has fjord-like sealochs and a diveristy of islands, linked by ferries. Visit Oban, Mull, Iona, Inveraray. Discover the birthplace of Scotland.

Melfort Pier & Harbour, has 12 self catering houses scatted along the shore of Loch Melfort. One of the most beautiful Sea Loch on the West Coast of Scotland, where the Highlands come down to the sea. Rent per night or per week.

We are open all year, 8 houses for the less mobile guests. Pets very welcome.

Call for more information 01852 200 333 or visit

www.mellowmelfort.com

MELFORT_HS_SUMMER 14.indd 1 28/05/2014 09:44


assured of a bright future – until he hears a prophecy that causes the unravelling of a great man, and incites a chain of treachery, murder and destruction. Illyria takes on the great Shakespeare tragedy with a gripping story and dazzling swordplay.

ABERDOUR 1300ABERDOUR CASTLE

Sat 19-Sun 20 July, 12pm-4pm

Immerse yourself in 14th-century life during the time of the Wars of Independence. Wander through the medieval encampment and feel the weight of authentic arms and armour.

MEDIEVAL MAYHEMCAERLAVEROCK CASTLE

Fri 25-Sun 27 July, 12pm-4pm

Experience medieval life as this family day out returns. Bring along your little lords and ladies to test their skills at hobby-horse jousting, foam sword fighting and teach them how to dress for battle.

KATY DOVE EXHIBITIONDUFF HOUSE

Sat 26 July-Sat 23 August, 11am-5pm

A new exhibition from Glasgow-based artist Katy Dove, part of GENERATION, a national programme of events featuring 100 international artists celebrating contemporary art in Scotland.

SCOTTISH CHAMBER ORCHESTRASTIRLING CASTLE

Wed 30 July, 8pmTickets range from £5 to £18, adult Historic Scotland members £15 Tickets from Albert Halls Box Office 01786 473544

The Scottish Chamber Orchestra returns for its annual summer concert with French conductor Alexandre Bloch. The orchestra will be joined by Scottish guitarist Sean Shibe.

AUGUST

SENSE AND SENSIBILITY BY JANE AUSTENDUFF HOUSE

Wed 6 August, 01261 818181STIRLING CASTLE

Thu 7 August, 01786 450000 doors 6.45pm for 7.30pm start Adults £14, concessions £12, children £10, families £42, 10% member discount. To receive your discount please purchase your tickets by telephoning the venue directly

Join Chapterhouse Theatre Company for an evening of Regency wonderment.

BAT WALKHOLYROOD PARK

Fri 29 August, 8pm-10pmAdults £5, concessions £4, children £3, 10% member [email protected] or 0131 652 8150

Join our rangers for a short talk followed by an easy-grade walk.Listen to and look for the bats in the park. Booking essential.

RENAISSANCE REVELRYLINLITHGOW PALACE

Sun 31 August, 12.30pm-4.30pm

A day of music, dance and drama. With presentations on life in a Renaissance palace.

SEPTEMBER

DIGGING UP THE PASTHOLYROOD PARK

Sat 6 September, [email protected] or


0131 652 8150

Find out more about archaeological artefacts found in Holyrood Park. Booking essential.

FIT FOR A QUEENDOUNE CASTLE

Sun 7 September, 12pm-4pm

Informative costuming, food, musketry and archery displays throughout the day.

CELTIC CRAGHOLYROOD PARK

Sun 21 September, 9am-12pm, [email protected] or 0131 652 8150

Join a ranger for a guided walk to delve into the park’s rich Celtic past. Booking essential.

ARCHAEOLOGY DAYHOLYROOD PARK

Sat 27 September, 11am-3pm, [email protected] or 0131 652 8150

Discover what life was like in the Iron Age. Booking essential.

The write stuff: Sense and Sensibility

SHUT

TERS

TOCK

Homecoming Scotland’s Food and Drink Fortnight at Edinburgh Castle

HOMECOMING AFTERNOON TEAEDINBURGH CASTLE

Throughout September, £22 members£25 non-members To book log into the members-only area of our website and follow link

www.historic-scotland.gov.uk/member

Enjoy mouth-watering afternoon tea inspired by the very best of Scottish produce, including delicious Highland venison and Loch Duart salmon sandwiches, cakes such as traditional Scottish macaroon and homemade Edinburgh Castle scones, and adram of whisky or glass of prosecco to toast the occasion!

HOMECOMING WINE AND DINEEDINBURGH CASTLE

Sun 14 September, 12.30pm for a 1pm start£58 members£65 non-members To book log into the members-only area of our website and follow linkwww.historic-scotland.gov.uk/member

Join us for our special Wine and Dine event created especially to mark the year of Homecoming Scotland 2014. A delicious menu of Scottish themed courses awaits with suitable wine matching each course.


LAST ISSUE’S GUESS THE YEAR COMPETITION Mary Queen of Scots abdicated in 1567. Congratulations to Grace Ellis from Edinburgh

HOW TO ENTERIf you can identify the year from the options below, visit www.historic-scotland.gov.uk/guesstheyear or post your answer, with your name, membership number and address, to Guess the Year, Historic Scotland magazine, Longmore House, Salisbury Place, Edinburgh EH9 1SH by Friday 18 July. See www.historic-scotland.gov.uk/member for terms and conditions.

WINNING PRIZEThe winning entry will receive a cheese and wine hamper from Scottish Hampers (www.scottishhampers.co.uk) containing a bottle of Bordeaux, Scottish cheese, crackers and flame-roasted coffee, among other treats. Please note: the competition is only open to members aged over 18.

THE PAINTINGAlbert Chevallier Tayler’s stirring portrait of Field-Marshal Douglas Haig, 1st Earl Haig was completed in 1920. Haig died eight years later and was buried in the north transept of Dryburgh Abbey (which is also the resting place of Sir Walter Scott). Tayler’s painting demonstrates the ‘square brush technique’, which involves laying the paint on the canvas straight from the palette using the square edge of the brush. The softened edges this creates produces a sense of atmosphere and light.

WHAT’S THE ANSWERIn which year did Douglas Haig begin his officer training at Sandhurst?A: 1884, B: 1887 or C: 1892

‘FIELD MARSHALL THE EARL HAIG’, BY ALBERT CHEVALLIER TAYLER (1862-1925), 1920, OIL ON CANVAS, PORTRAIT OF SIR DOUGLAS HAIG IN UNIFORM

ALAM

Y

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Documents

Historic Scotland, Summer 2014