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AbstractHerbasec® MPE Sebostat is a new product which has

been developed using two new manufacturingtechnologies; a Dual Phase High Tech Extraction Process(DPEP), unique to Cosmetochem International Ltd,followed by a powder technology which involves theloading of the plant actives on to a plant-derived powdersupport. The combined use of these two technologiesallows the production of an extract which contains bothpolar and non-polar actives, is 100% plant-derived,preservative-free and solvent–free. Herbasec® MPESebostat is composed of three different plant extractswhich have been especially chosen for their sebum-regulating properties and the efficacy is supported byindependent laboratory data. It is in a chemically stableform of a pale powder, allowing it to be incorporated notonly into pale creams and lotions, where highlyconcentrated liquid extracts can cause discolouration butalso into solid products. The powder technology can also

be used to produce an unlimited number of single ormultiple plant extracts.

IntroductionHerbasec® MPE Sebostat is a new product which has

been developed using two new manufacturingtechnologies; a Dual Phase High Tech Extraction Process(DPEP), unique to Cosmetochem International Ltd,followed by the loading of the plant actives on to a plant-derived powder support. The DPEP is used to produceboth liquid (Herbasol® MPE) and powder (Herbasec®

MPE) products which are called MPEs – multi-purposeextracts and include the products shown in Table 1.

Traditional extraction procedures favour either thepolar or non-polar actives. The DPEP is a cold procedurethat allows the extraction of almost all polar, semi-polarand polar actives. The MPEs are highly concentratedextracts, 100kg of the final product corresponding to500kg of fresh plant material. They also are supported by

Herbasec® MPE Sebostat – a multi-plant extract using a combinationof a novel dual-phase extractionand a new powder technology

Dr Jane Tiedtke & Dr Olaf Marks, Cosmetochem International Ltd.

Powder product Liquid product Major properties Suggested Cosmetic Applications

Herbasec® MPE Sebostat Herbasol® MPE Sebostat •Sebum regulating •Anti-acne products.

for hair25 and skin33* Products for greasy, blemished,

problem & adolescent skins

•Products for greasy hair

Herbasec® MPE Deo Herbasol® MPE Deo •Deodorant26* •Deodorant

•Foot care products

•Bath & shower

Herbasec® MPE Rooibos Herbasol® MPE Rooibos28 •Improves hair growth •Anti-acne products. Products for,

& condition27* blemished, problem & adolescent skins

•Anti-inflammatory •Hair care products

•Free radical scavenger

Table 1. Applications for MPE products

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the results from independent lab evaluations or aconsumer test panel, to substantiate claims (these aremarked with an * in the column on properties inTable.1).

Although liquid Herbasol® MPE’s can be used in awide range of applications there are some instanceswhere a dark coloured liquid extract is not suitable e.g.white or pale skin care creams/lotions and solid products.

Herbasec® dry powder extracts have therefore beendeveloped as the result of several requirements of thecosmetic industry that were not currently being met byliquid botanical extracts (Table 2.). Herbasec® drypowder extracts can be made both following our extractprocedure used for our standard Herbasol® products andalso following the DPEP which is used to produce theMPE products. This article will be limited to discussingHerbasec® MPE Sebostat as an example of thecombination of the DPEP and the dry powdertechnologies.

After the dual extraction, the completely evaporated,solvent-free polar and non-polar fractions are loaded onto a botanical carrier system. This botanical carriersystem is based on maltodextrin and to ensure that it isGMO-free a maltodextrin of potato origin was chosen.

The result is a range of pale-coloured powdersreflecting delicate colour and fragrance of original plant(Figure 1). The dry powders have betterchemical/colour stability with prevents the continuingpolymerization of polyphenols which often occurs inliquid extracts, resulting in a darkening of the colour overtime.

Herbasec® MPE SebostatHerbasec® MPE Sebostat is a highly concentrated, dry

powder extract containing a synergistic active complex ofWatercress, Horsetail and Nettle, ideally suited as a

botanical sebum-regulating active in both skin and haircare products. It is soluble in water with no resultingresidues.

Watercress History of Use :Watercress (Nasturtium officinale) has a long history of

medicinal use.Bruised leaves, leaf compresses8 and the juice from the

leaves have been used in traditional medicine to treat skinblemishes, spots35, boils, warts5,15, blotches10 and acne16.Watercress has also been used in ethnic medicine toincrease hair growth, as a hair tonic6 and to treat hairloss29.

Main components of Watercress The following substances are listed in the literature as

actives of the plant14,16,21,29:a. Essential oil : Up to 0.066%b. Glucosinolates: 2-phenylethylglucosinolate,

7- methylthioeptilglucosinolate,8-methylthioottilglucosinolate

c. Flavonoidsd. Mineral salts: iodine, iron, calcium, phosphorus

Customer requirements

• Low colour• High activity / wide range of actives• Solvent-free• Preservative-free• Chemically stable• 100% plant-derived formulation ingredients• Ingredients from renewable resources• GMO-free• Completely miscible with water with no residues• Easily incorporated in liquid & solid products

Table 2: Customer requirements not all met by liquid extracts

Figure 1. Herbasec® Dry Powder ExtractsClockwise from top: Herbasec®s Marigold/Calendula, MPE DEO,

Green Tea, Mimosa, Hibiscus. MPERooibos & in centre MPE Sebostat.

Figure 2. WatercressBotanical Family: Cruciferae

Other Common Names: Latin: Nasturtium officinale L.English: Watercress , French: Cresson de fontaine, German:

Brunnenkresse

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e. Miscellaneous:Sugars,carotenoids, triglycerides,vitamins ((B1, B2, C,E,PP), sulpho-nitrogenous oil,bitter substances.

Stinging NettleHistory of use:Nettles have been used in herbal medicine to treat

rheumatism and a wide range of skin diseases12. Legendhas it that Caesar’s troops introduced the Roman nettle(Urtica pilulifera) into Britain to flog themselves with themin order to keep themselves warm in the cold climate1- aprocess known as "urtication" 12 and which was also usedas a remedy for rheumatism. Nettle "washes" were alsotraditional remedies for insect bites, wounds and hairloss1.

Main components of Stinging NettleThe following substances are listed in the literature as

actives of the plant9,11,17,21,23,31:a. Essential oil: alcohols, esters, methylheptenone,

acetophenoneb. Proteins & amino acids c. Amines: 20-25%d. Carotenoids: ß-carotene, isoxanthine,

xanthophyll, xanthophyllepoxide, lycopene,violaxanthin

e. Vitamins: B2, C, K1, A, panthotenic, folic acidf. Phytosterols: ß-sitosterolsg. Miscellaneous: tannins, mucilage, waxes, sugars,

fatty acids, chlorophyll, formic and acetic acids,histamine, phytol, mineral salts

HorsetailHistory of use1,2,12,:Horsetail (Equisetum arvense) is a prehistoric botanical

relic and is similar to trees that grew on earth 270 millionyears ago in the Carboniferous period.

It is a common fossil in coal deposits and has beenused since the Romans as a vegetable, an animal feed andmedicine. Since the time of the Ancient Greeks it hasbeen used to treat wounds due to its astringent, healinganti-inflammatory and haemostatic properties.

Main components of HorsetailThe following substances are listed in the literature as

actives of the plant2,11,12,17,24 :a. Alkaloids: nicotine, palustrine and palustrinineb. Flavonoids: isoquercitrin, equicetrin, galuteoline,

quercetin, kaempferol, astragalin, kaempferol 3,7-diglucoside

c. Sterols: cholesterol, isofucosterol, campesterol andothers

d. Silicic acid: 5-8%e. Saponins: equisitonin up to 5%f. Triglycerides: oleic, stearic, linolic, linolenic acidsg. Phenol acids: caffeic, protocatechic, ρ-coumaric,

ferulic acidsh. Miscellaneous: dimethylsulphone, tannins,

thiaminase, malic, oxalic & aconitic acids, mineral salts (potassium).

Sebum Regulating Activity of Herbasec® MPESebostat: Independent Laboratory Results

Tests were carried out at two independentlaboratories25,33 to determine the efficacy of MPESebostat as a sebum-regulating active in both a rinse-offhaircare product (shampoo) and a leave-on skin careproduct (cream).

Application test in Shampoo25 (rinse-offproduct)

• Conclusion - the clinical tests showed a significantreduction of sebum with a use concentration of 5%MPE Sebostat in the final product .

Figure 3. Stinging NettleBotanical Family: Urticaceae

Other Common Names: Latin: Urtica dioica English: Nettle, French: Herbe d‘ortie,

German: Brennesselkraut

Figure 4. HorsetailBotanical Family: Equisetaceae

Other Common Names: Latin: Equisetum arvenseEnglish: Horsetail, French: Prêle,

German: Schachtelhalm

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• With 1% use concentration the detected decrease ofthe sebum on the hair was considered as notsignificant.

Application test in Skin (leave-on product)• Conclusion - A twice a day application of the

product containing 0.5% MPE Sebostat over 4weeks, induced an average decrease of 6.7% of theamount of the lipid film on the skin the test subjects.

• Consumer perception results :Over 50% (6 out of 11) of subjects found a slight toclear improvement in their skin aspect. Theseimprovements concerned:- Improved skin quality for 4 subjects- Improved skin texture/ more refined skin surface for

5 subjects- Decreased skin "shine" for 6 subjects.• Tolerance: no clinical sign of intolerance was found

by the investigator at the end of the study and nosubject reported any intolerance reaction.

Suggested Cosmetic applicationsTable 4 shows the individual properties from the

literature of the three component plants, Watercress,Stinging Nettle and Horsetail. A summary of selectedproperties are given in Table 3 illustrating why thesethree plants were chosen for a sebum regulating productfor both skin and hair.

Due to the unique characteristics of HERBASEC®

MPEs they are ideally suited for formulation into white orpale-coloured skin care creams and lotions ortransparent products where dark-coloured liquid extractspose a problem of discolouration. Their powder formalso allows the possibility of incorporation into solidproducts. In addition this novel extraction process offers

for the first time an extract containing the majority of theexisting plant actives.

These highly concentrated dry extracts allow easierproof of the declared ingredient in the final product.There is no country restriction world-wide.

Recommended level of use:• 0.5 - 1 % for leave on products • 2 - 5 % for rinse off products

References1. Ody, P. (2000) The Complete Guide Medicinal

Herbal, pub. Dorling Kindersley, 2nd edn.2. Duke, James A. (1985) Handbook of Medicinal

Herbs, pub. CRC Press Inc.3. Roberts, M. (1984) Margaret Robert’s Book of

Herbs. The medicinal & culinary use of herbs in South Africa, pub. Jonathan Ball Publisher.

4. Launert, E. (1981) Edible & Medicinal Plants,pub. Hamlyn.

5.http://www.hort.purdue.ed/newcrop/med-aro/factsheets/watercress.html

6. Philips, R, & Foy, N. (1990), Herbs. pub Pan Books Ltd, London

7. CRC Ethnobotany Desk Reference, Herbage Guide to Herbs: http://www.herbweb.com

8. Prihoda, A. (1989) Plantes et Sante, publ.Grund, Paris

9. Leung, A.Y. & Foster, S. (1996) Encyclopedia ofCommon Natural Ingredients used in Food and Cosmetics

10. Culpeper’s Colour Herbal (1983), ed D.Potterton, publ. Dover Publications

11. Wren, R.C. (1988) Potter’s New Encyclopedia ofBotanical Drugs & Preparations, pub. Daniel

Properties from literature Watercress Horsetail Nettle

Hair tonic, reduces hair loss, increases hair growth √ √ √Antidandruff x x √Sebostatic √ √ √Antiseptic, antibacterial √ √ √Anti-acne & good vs spots √ √ √Anti-inflammatory √ √ √Prevention of scar tissue x √ x

Astringent x √ √Stimulates wound healing & connective tissue/skin regeneration x √ x

Anti-wrinkle, skin smoothing, increases skin elasticity x √ √Circulatory stimulant x x √

Table 3. Properties of Watercress, Horsetail and Nettle Plants from the literature

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Co. Ltd.12. Polunin, M & Robbins,C. (1992) The Natural

Pharmacy: An illustrated guide to natural medicine. Pub. Collier books. Macmillan Pub.Co. N.Y.

13. Thompson, William A.R. (1978) Healing Plants – A Modern Herbal

14. Grieve, M. (1971) A Modern Herbal, vols. I &

II, publ. Dover Publications Inc.15. Pahlow: Das Grosse Buch der Heilpflanzen16. Secrets et vertus des plantes médicinales (1981)

Selection du Reader’s Digest, S.A., 2nd edn.17. Plants in Cosmetics, Volume I: Prepared by

the Committee of Experts on Cosmetic Products with the collaboration of Prof. Anton Robert, Dr Franco Patri & Prof. Vittorio Silano. , Council of

Properties Suggested cosmetic applications*Watercress•Antiseptic3, purifying29 • Anti-blemish, anti-acne products & • Anti-inflammatory4, anti-eczema29 products for problem skins• Skin lightening29

• Good for spots, blemishes3,5,8,10, acne16, boils , warts5,15

• Sebum regulator for skin and hair29 • Products for greasy skin & hair• Used in ethnic medicine to increase hair growth • Hair care products

& used as a hair tonic6 & to treat hair loss29

• Stimulating16, tonic8,29, diuretic8,10 • Bath, shower & massage productsStinging Nettle• Antidandruff 1,3,7,17 • Wide range of hair care products• Hair tonic2,4,14,17

• Stimulates hair growth14, good against hair loss13,14

• Improves & hair condition17 & texture3,7,8,14,16

• Sebostatic17

• Antibacterial (especially vs g+ves) 8,9, antiseptic2 • Anti-blemish, anti-acne products & • Anti-inflammatory8,9,19,13,23 products for problem skins• Used as infusion for skin complaints (eczema, • Shaving products

skin eruptions etc.)1,10,11,12,16,31 , anti-acne23, bruises14, burns12,14

• Sebostatic17

• Astringent1,2,8,9,10,11,14,16,17, haemostatic1,2,9,11,14,16,17,31

• Diuretic1,2,9,10,11,16 • Skin & body care products• Circulatory stimulant1,2,9,12 • Cleansers, fresheners, tonics• Astringent1,2,8,9,10,11,14,16,17, tonic1,2,10,11,14

• Dye (chlorophyll) 14,17

• Rejuvenates skin when used as a wash7

Horsetail• Astringent1,2,10,11,12,14,17 • Skin care products especially anti-ageing • Stimulates skin repair1,2,9,10,12,14. products & products for mature skin• Anti-swelling12,32, reduces puffiness of eyes 2,14,19 • Eye care products• Strengthening, regeneration of connective tissue9 • Skin cleansers & tonics• Increases skin elasticity & firmness17,24, anti-wrinkle23

• Diuretic1,2,8,9.10,13,14,23, stimulates tissue drainage17, • Skin firming productsanti-swelling2,14,19 • Products for "heavy" legs & cellulite

• Increases skin elasticity & firmness17,24 • Massage products• Anti-cellulite23,24 • Foot care products• Good for circulatory disorders (used in bath)13

• Sebostatic17 • Anti-acne products & products for • Antibacterial9, antifungal21 blemished, adolescent or problem skins• Good vs. acne and eczema10 • Shaving products• Astringent1,2,10,11,12,14,17, haemostatic1,2,9,10,1112,14,23,• Promotes wound healing & skin repair9,10,13,21

• Anti-inflammatory1,9,10,12,14; used for skin irritations14,20, sores9 & abcesses32

• Prevention of scar tissue23

• Promotes hair growth20 & prevents hair loss17 • Hair care products in general• Treatment of skin & nails10

• Remineralising agent17,23,24 • Nail & hand care products

Disclaimer: These suggestions are given in good faith but it is recommended that all appropriate tests are carried out by our customers in their formulations.

Table 4. Cosmetic related activities of the 3 component plants of Herbasec® MPE Sebostat from the literature

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Europe Publishing, 2001.18. Hoffman, D.L. Taken from medline Database

for the genus Equisetum .http://www.healthy.net/index/asp

19. Duke, James, Module 16 European Syllabus.http://lpc-linux.unil.ch/botanique/dr-duke/module16.htm

20. Duke, James, Module 17 Green Pharmacy.http://lpc-linux.unil.ch/botanique/dr-duke/module17.htm

21. Hoppe : Drogenkunde22. Bold, H.C. & La Clare John (1987). The Plant

Kingdom, 5th edn.23. Bruneton, J. (1993) Pharmacognosie :

Phytochimie Plantes Médicinales. p. Lavoisier, Paris.24. Martini, M-C, & Seiller, M: (1992) Actifs &

additives en cosmétologie25. 1998 Observation of the seboregulating effect

of two shampoos. Independent studied carried out for Cosmetochem International by Dermscan®

Laboratoire, France26. 1999. MPE Deo: Results of Consumer Panel

Test with 50 volunteers27. 1998. Study on human subjects of the efficacy

of an active designed to prevent hair loss plus placebo: videotrichogramme study. Conducted on

a lotion containing MPE Rooibos by Dermscan®

Laboratoire France for Cosmetochem Int.28. Tiedtke, J. & Marks, O. (2002) Rooibos- The

new "white tea" for hair and skin care. Euro Cosmetics, vol, 10, n° 6, p.16-19.

29. Plants in Cosmetics, Volume II: Prepared by the Committee of Experts on Cosmetic Products with the collaboration of Prof. Anton Robert, Dr Franco Patri & Prof. Vittorio Silano., Council ofEurope Publishing, 2001.

30. Duke, J, (1997) The Green Pharmacy pub. St Martin’s Press, N.Y. (by arrangement with Rodale Press)

31. Newall, Carol A. Anderson, Linda A. & Phillipson, J. David (1996) Herbal Medicines : A Guide for Health-care Professionals, pub. The Pharmaceutical press, London

32. Treben. Maria (1987) Health from God’s Garden – Herbal Remedies for Glowing Health and Well-being, pub. Thorsons Publishing Group,

33. (2000) Assessment of the activity of MPE Sebostat on sebum production after repeated applications on volunteers. Independent study carried out for Cosmetochem International by BIO-HC