A Q U I C K G U I D E F O R N A T U R A L S K I N C A R E

F O R M U L A T O R S

Hemp & CBD oil

2 Contents

3 Welcome

4 About the School of Natural Skincare

5 Hemp & CBD

5 What is Hemp?

5 What is CBD?

6 What are the benef its of CBD?

6 What is THC and marijuana?

6 What about hemp seed oil: what is it and does it contain cannabinoids?

6 I’m confused about the names!

7 What is the difference between Hemp seed oil and CBD oil?

8 What types of cosmetic product can CBD and hemp seed oil be used in?

8 What forms does CBD come in?

8 How is CBD produced?

8 What is the difference between full-spectrum CBD, broad-spectrum CBD, and CBD isolate?

9 Will I get high f rom using a CBD skincare product?

9 How do I mask the scent?

9 Is CBD oil/hemp seed oil legal in my country?

9 What should you look for in a quality CBD skincare product?

10 Benef its of hemp and CBD in skincare

10 Should I try hemp or CBD?

11 Healing Hemp Balm with CBD

12 CBD and hemp seed oil suppliers

13 Want to know more? Here’s your next step!

2

Contents

3

This guide will explain:

• The difference between hemp, CBD and cannabis.

• What hemp seed oil is, its benefits for skincare and how to use it.

• What CBD is, its benefits for skincare and how to use it.

• The difference between full-spectrum CBD, broad-spectrum CBD, and CBD isolate.

• How to check the quality of your CBD.

Plus we’ve included:

• A free formula for a Healing Hemp Balm with CBD

• A supplier list: Where to buy CBD for skincare.

Welcome!F R O M T H E

We know you’ll enjoy this guide!

If you’d like to take the next step do check out our accredited, online Diploma in Natural Skincare Formulation.

Enjoy!

Gail and Gareth xoxDirectors, School of Natural Skincare International

Thanks so much for downloading this f ree guide!

CBD has become one of the biggest trends in skincare but there is still a lot of confusion surrounding it.

4

About the School of Natural Skincare

We are the world’s premier natural

skincare formulation school, helping you

create high performance natural and

organic beauty products, for yourself

or to launch a successful business.

Led by Cosmetic Formulator, Gail Francombe

and Aromatherapist, Gareth Despres, the

school is dedicated to helping you ditch

harmful chemicals and synthetically laden

products and instead have the knowledge

and confidence to make your own beautiful,

effective natural skincare products.

The School’s team of expert tutors

include Cosmetic Chemists, Cosmetic

Formulators, Aromatherapists, Beauty

Business Professionals and Niche

Beauty Brand owners all passionate

about helping you create beautiful

products and thriving businesses.

Through accredited, multimedia online

classes the School has trained thousands

of students across every continent.

The School’s fabulous recipes and

enjoyable, creative classes have been

featured by the BBC and glossy magazines

like Green Parent, Spirit & Destiny and

Country Homes and Interiors Magazine.

Find more recipes or join a

training course with us here:

www.schoolofnaturalskincare.com

What is hemp?

Hemp is a plant (scientific name cannabis

sativa) with a number of different uses.

There are many strains of cannabis sativa,

but the one used industrially usually goes

by the name of hemp. You may have also

heard of so-called ‘medical cannabis’. The

difference between hemp and medical

cannabis is minimal - both varieties originate

from the same plant species, but one

produces a psychoactive compound, and

the other one doesn’t. Industrial cannabis,

or hemp, contains less than 0.3% of dry

weight of psychoactive molecules and is

thus legal in most countries of the world.

What is CBD?

Plants produce many different molecules

that have a wide variety of functions in the

plant’s physiology. An important group

of compounds, synthesized by cannabis

plant species, are cannabinoids. They

are a very diverse group of molecules;

so far 113 different cannabinoids have

been identified. One of the most well

known is CBD, or cannabidiol. CBD is

becoming more and more popular in

dietary supplements, cosmetics and

even over-the-counter drugs. CBD is a

cannabinoid, most abundantly present in

the hemp plant. It is found in hemp extracts

(which are also referred to as CBD oils).

5

CH3

CH3

OH

HO

CBD

C3HC3HFig A. The molecular structure of Cannabidiol (CBD)

Hemp & CBD

What are the benef its of CBD?

Until recently, all kinds of cannabis extract

were considered regulated drugs, so

not much research on CBD and other

cannabinoids is available. Some users

report CBD has beneficial effects on

the symptoms of epilepsy, anxiety,

depression and insomnia. Research on

the topical use of CBD point to its strong

anti-inflammatory properties, which can

be beneficial in many skin disorders

that are connected to inflammation:

acne, eczema, psoriasis, and similar.

What is THC and marijuana?

The term marijuana is used to describe

cannabis cultivars that contain

psychoactive cannabinoids, of which

THC (tetrahydrocannabinol) is the most

well-known. Marijuana as plant and its

extracts are still considered illegal in

most countries (with some exceptions).

What about hemp seed oil: what is it and does it contain cannabinoids?

With the increasing popularity of CBD-

rich hemp extracts, there has been some

confusion regarding hemp seed oil. Hemp

seed oil is a vegetable carrier oil that is

extracted (usually cold pressed) from the

seeds of the hemp plant. Seeds contain

no cannabinoids, so hemp seed oil is free

of CBD and THC. This means that while

it functions as a very strong emollient, it

will have none of the anti-inflammatory

properties that are attributed to CBD.

I’m confused about the names!

The terminology can change from one

supplier to another (which can make things

confusing), but here’s a brief explanation.

CBD oil is found in hemp extracts. You might

find CBD oil described as ‘hemp extract’

or it might be listed as ‘CBD’ or ‘CBD oil’.

Hemp seed oil is a carrier oil (described

above). It has different characteristics

from CBD oil/hemp extract.

Hemp oil is a term occasionally used for CBD

oil/hemp extract. It is not common, but you

should be aware that it refers to CBD oil/

hemp extract and NOT hemp seed oil.

Basically, what we normally buy as ‘CBD oil’ is CBD-rich hemp extract (full spectrum

or wide spectrum), diluted in a carrier

oil (hemp seed oil or other oils). Some

suppliers (Nordic Oil, for example) call

this ‘hemp oil’. Typically, when suppliers

use the term ‘hemp oil’, they list the CBD

percentage on the packaging, so it is clear

that this is not hemp seed carrier oil.

Some suppliers (from my research, very

rare ones), sell ‘CBD oil’ as a dilution of

CBD isolate (pure CBD molecule, isolated

from broad-spectrum hemp extract) in a

carrier oil (hemp seed oil or other oils).

The takeaway from this is to always

read the label carefully and ask your

supplier for clarification if it’s unclear!

6

W H A T I S T H ED I F F E R E N C E B E T W E E N

Hemp seed oiland CBD oil?

7

CANNABINOID CONTENT

Low

CANNABINOID CONTENT

High

SOURCED FROM

Entire plant, although rarely

the seeds

PRODUCTION METHOD

Extracted (using CO2, organic solvents

or ethanol); or oil maceration

SOURCED FROM

Seeds

HEMP SEED OIL CBD OIL

PRODUCTION METHOD

Pressing

USES

Nutritional and industrial uses

USES

Medicinal uses

What types of cosmetic product can CBD and hemp seed oil be used in?

Firstly, CBD is soluble in oil and insoluble

in water. This means that if you want to use

CBD in a cosmetic product, the formulation

must include an oil phase. Anhydrous balms/

salves as well as emulsions are all options.

Hemp seed oil can be used in the same

way as other carrier oils, but keep in

mind that due to its composition, which

includes polyunsaturated fatty acids,

hemp seed oil is considered unstable and

requires the addition of an antioxidant.

What forms does CBD come in?

Usually, when looking for CBD you

will find it dissolved in a carrier oil at

different percentages, typically up to

25% concentration. Another option is

hemp tincture (which will contain a high

quantity of CBD) - this is an alcoholic

extract. Tinctures can be added to water

or alcohol-based products (like mists and

toners). CBD isolate (pure CBD) comes in

the form of oil soluble white powder.

How is CBD produced?

While CBD can be produced synthetically in

a lab, we are focusing here on natural CBD.

Natural CBD is extracted from hemp plants.

There are a variety of extraction methods:

supercritical CO2 extraction, ethanol

extraction, oil maceration, or extraction

with other types of organic solvents.

When choosing a hemp extract, we

suggest you look for CO2 extracts

or ethanolic extracts, as they contain

no dangerous solvent residues.

What is the difference between full-spectrum CBD, broad-spectrum CBD, and CBD isolate?

These terms can sometimes be quite

confusing, especially when CBD suppliers

use them interchangeably. Full-spectrum

hemp extract contains a wide range

of cannabinoids - CBD along with

others, including CBN, CBG, CBC and

even THC (in trace amounts only).

Full-spectrum extract will also contain

other hemp components such as fatty

acids and flavonoids.This type of extract

is very commonly used, as cannabinoids

and flavonoids can work in synergy to

provide the most benefit for the user.

Broad-spectrum extract is very similar to full

spectrum, but it contains no THC (not even

trace amounts). This means that the extract

undergoes additional purifying process

where THC is completely removed. This

type of extract is useful for people who can’t

have any traces of THC in their system.

CBD isolate is purified CBD. It usually comes

in the form of white powder with a purity of

99% or more. The isolate is useful for people

who are experiencing sensitivities to other

cannabinoids and wish to use just CBD.

8

Will I get high f rom using a CBD skincare product?

No. Legal hemp extracts don’t contain

enough THC to cause any psychoactive

reactions. Most countries permit trace

amounts of THC (less than 0.3% of plant

dry weight) in hemp plants, and this

amount does not make a person high.

How do I mask the scent?

Hemp extracts can have very pungent

scent that can be perceived as unpleasant

when used in a skincare product. The more

purified the extract is, the less strong the

scent will be. If you find the natural odor of

the extract unpleasant, you can try adding

essential oils to your product, ideally oils

which will complement CBD properties.

Is CBD oil/hemp seed oil legal in my country?

Hemp seed oil does not contain any

cannabinoids and is thus legal in most

countries. When it comes to CBD, there

are different regulations. The EU currently

permits certain types of hemp extract to

be used in cosmetics, but each member

country is free to propose stricter legislation.

For this reason it is very important to

check what the current legislation on

the topic of CBD is in your country.

In the USA, the FDA now permits CBD as

a cosmetic ingredient, but each state can

adopt its own regulations covering CBD.

Since the legislation regarding CBD

is changing a lot at the moment and

is expected to change even more

in the next two to three years, it is

very important to check the current

legislation of your country (or state).

What should you look for in a quality CBD skincare product?

The quality of the hemp extract is

very important. The hemp plant is a

bioaccumulator, which means it draws

impurities, such as heavy metals and

pesticides, from the soil, and stores them.

If a plant that was growing on low quality

soil is then used to make CBD extract, the

extract can contain impurities from the soil.

This is why it is always useful to check the

Certificate of Analysis (CoA) of hemp extract

for pesticide, insecticide, fungicide and

heavy metal content, along with the basic

cannabinoid composition and content.

9

Hemp seed oil (a carrier oil) is able to penetrate deeply into the layers of skin

making the skin softer as it does so; it is very good at replenishing the skin, hydrating

it, softening it, toning it, smoothing out wrinkles, lifting tiredness, and reducing the

appearance of sagging and general signs of aging. It is rich in essential fatty acids

including omega 3 and 6, and GLA which helps skin to retain moisture, increase its ability

to absorb oxygen, increase barrier repair and alleviate itching or irritation (useful for

treating eczema and psoriasis). All of these properties make hemp seed oil a valuable

addition to skincare products aimed for sensitive, dry, damaged or chapped skin.

CBD, found in hemp extracts, functions as a powerful anti-inflammatory ingredient

in skincare. Its ability to reduce inflammation can play a crucial role in cosmetic

products for acne-prone, eczema-prone, damaged or sensitive skin.

A wonderful option is to combine beneficial fatty acids from hemp seed oil

and anti-inflammatory properties from CBD to create potent balms and creams

to help alleviate skin disorders such as psoriasis, eczema and acne.

Should I try hemp or CBD? In the end, the decision is up to you. CBD is definitely a trending ingredient that can be very

appealing to consumers, but with complex legislation around it, selling products with CBD

can be difficult in some countries. People who have experience with the topical use of CBD

usually report positive results, so it may be a beneficial addition to your skincare products.

10

Benefits of hemp and CBD in skincare

If you’d like to try out using CBD and hemp seed oil in a product, here is a formula

for a Healing Hemp Balm that uses both hemp seed oil and CBD extract.

This is a nice simple product to make that will get you up and running with hemp

seed oil and CBD/hemp extract. We teach our students to formulate a complete

range of natural and organic skincare products on our Diploma in Natural Skincare

Formulation, where we also offer a bonus lesson on formulating with hemp and CBD.

By enrolling on the course, you’ll learn the science, art and practice of natural skincare

formulation and you’ll be able to hone your skills with some more advanced example

formulations, including a selection from the bonus lesson that focus on hemp and CBD!

Phase Ingredients INCI w/w%

A Hemp seed oil Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil 39.9

A Soybean oil Glycine Soja Seed Oil 35

A Beeswax Cera Alba 5

A Carnauba wax Copernica Cerifera Cera 10

B Vitamin E Tocopherol 0.1

B CBD/Hemp extract 10% Cannabis Sativa Extract 10

Instructions:

1. Weigh the ingredients of phase A and melt them in a water bath.

2. Once melted, remove from heat and add in phase B ingredients, stir thoroughly.

3. Pour into a jar and let cool.

Healing hemp balm with CBD11

Hemp seed oil can be found in many cosmetic supply stores or specialty shops sold as an edible

oil. Hemp extracts/CBD oil can be found at various suppliers worldwide; we list a few here:

EuropePharmahemp (https://pharmahemp.store/)

Nordic Oils (https://nordicoil.com/)

Cibdol (https://www.cibdol.com/)

USAGreen Roads (https://www.greenroadsworld.com/)

CBD Distillery (https://www.thecbdistillery.com/)

NuLeaf Naturals (https://nuleafnaturals.com/)

AustraliaCharlotte’s Web Australia (https://cwcbdoil.com.au/)

Genesis Pure Botanicals (https://genesispurebotanicals.com.au/)

The Cannabis Company (https://cannabiscompany.com.au/)

AsiaHealthy Tokyo (https://healthytokyo.com/cbd-oil-japan/)

CBD and hemp seed oil suppliers12

CBD is growing in popularity the world over. From CBD tea to CBD capsules and CBD oil, the world of natural health has embraced this extract and now it is being incorporated into skincare.

The thing is CBD is relatively new, especially in skincare, so research is still ongoing and it is

hard to find accurate information and reliable recipes online or in books.

The key to using CBD in your skincare products is to learn the practice, art and science of

natural skincare formulation. This is exactly what we teach on our accredited, multimedia online

Diploma in Natural Skincare Formulation.

When you know how to formulate properly you can...

• Deliberately select ingredients (including CBD and Hemp if you wish) to suit a particular skin

type and treat specific skin conditions.

• Make a whole range of safe, stable and effective products for your target customer (or

yourself!).

• Design products in line with your values, for example organic or vegan.

• Troubleshoot effectively when things go wrong

• Discern whether information you find online is right or wrong.

• Become independent. You can rely on your own expertise, knowledge and skill to create

whatever you want to create!!

PLUS...You NEVER have to follow another recipe again...unless you want to of course!

To find out more about the course syllabus (and to enroll), click here

Disclaimer: This eBook is provided to you “as is”: we make no representation as to its accuracy, completeness, whether or not it is up-to-date, or that it will meet your requirements. Any recipes and formulas provided to you are for demonstration purposes only. We accept no responsibility or liability for your use of the eBook, which is entirely at your own risk.

Want to know more? Here’s your next step!13

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