Brackets are marked L (left) and R (right). Left is the driver’s side, right is the passenger side.If your block mounting pad has studs, these need to be removed before installation.

Using the three (3 each side) 7/16” fasteners supplied, install the left and right block portion of bracket assembly first. Torque to spec — approximately 40-45 ft. lbs. Since the fasteners are threaded thru the block, use a good quality thread sealant to prevent leaks.

Re-install the perch portions of the bracket assembly to the block portions using two (2) of the four (4) 1/2” bolts provided. Installation of your engine will be easier if these are left loose and torqued after the engine is in place. Note that on each side the 1/2” bolts go in the same direction and that the off-set is toward the firewall.

Install the engine onto the perch as normal using the remaining two (2) 1/2” thru bolts. All four 1/2” thru bolts should remain loose until after the tranny is installed on its mount in the correct location, the exhaust manifolds are installed, or headers are in position, and the correct level has been achieved. Thru bolts should then be torqued to approximately 75 ft. lb.

Factory exhaust manifolds work perfectly with this application, with no fabrication necessary.If you are using after-market headers the left hand side should be in place, but loose from the head, in order to torque the 1/2” thru bolts.

HEMI INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

1. LEFT, DRIVERS SIDE

3. LEFT, DRIVERS SIDE

2. RIGHT, PASSENGER’S SIDE

4. RIGHT, PASSENGER’S SIDE

Note: After-market headers: Additional clearance may be required on the left/driver’s side mounting perch of your k-member. This can be achieved by cutting off the upper rearward cor-ner of the perch (photo 5 & 6). This is done most easily before the engine is installed. Use the bracket as a guide for the amount of material to be removed— simply lay the left hand bracket assembly onto the k-member perch, and scribe a line on the exposed upper portion of the perch (photo 5).

This is not required in all header applications, but does aid in installation.

ATTENTION: POWER BRAKE CARS. Remember that original Hemi cars had smaller power brake boosters, and some models had re-located systems. This was done for valve cover to power brake booster clearance. If your booster is larger than 10” in diameter, you should plan for the possibility that it will hit the valve cover. Since firewalls and booster size vary from one model to the next, the best method for determining the size booster you will need is to remove the power brake booster before the engine is installed. After the engine is installed and level, try re-installing the booster. If it hits the valve cover, you’ll know exactly how much smaller the new booster has to be. (This is the “try, before you buy” method.)

DIPSTICKS: Most crate Hemi engines come with straight dipsticks. We advise that you bend the tube as necessary. The best way to accomplish this is to do it with the engine on the stand, the left hand mount in place, and the left hand exhaust installed, using a tubing bender. This is much easier than trying to do it with the engine installed in the compartment.

Original Hemi dipsticks may have to be slightly reworked to fit around the mount.

Another option is to use the flexible dipstick from Milodon or Lokar.

5. SCRIBING 6. FINISHED CUT

Since these are basically direct factory-style swaps, the best tech tip we can give you is to purchase a Factory Service Manual for the year and model of your vehicle. A good manual will be an invaluable tool in the success of your project.

• Small block and big block B,C and E-body cars for these years have the same K-member, so the Hemi kit will work equally well with both systems.

• Slant 6 models still require a K-member change to the V8 style.

• Original, factory Hemi exhaust manifolds work perfectly with this swap. Hemi headers, in the B & E-body, will work as well as they would with an original Hemi car (This mounting system won’t create any header fitting prob-lems, but it won’t solve any either.) We highly recommend the TTI Hemi header for the best fit and performance. In the C-body, the torsion bars are closer together and the engine offset is much more drastic than in the B or E-body — this may interfere with headers. We recommend factory manifolds for C-body swaps.

• Due to the reworked port location, aluminum heads MAY cause header fitting problems, although not necessarily in all cases. You may have to determine this on a trial and error basis.

• The oil pan that comes with Mopar Performance crate engines works fine — as do most pans that are specifically designed for B and E-bodies. B and E-body oil pans will not work in the C-body.

• Power brake boosters are smaller on original Hemi cars to allow for valve cover clearance: If your booster is larger than 10” in diameter you should plan on changing to a smaller booster.

• At this time, the kit does not work with oil pumps that have external lines that are routed toward the back or fire-wall.

• Hemi cranks are 8 bolt flange instead of 6. In most applications, if you are reusing your transmission, you must change your flex plate or flywheel.

• Due to the extra weight, a torsion bar change to the Hemi style is recommended.

• This kit works with both manual and power steering, 4 speed or automatic, and with A/C.

• Radiator compatibility should be considered. Choosing one with its outlet and inlet on the same side as the mating connections on the engine makes for a simpler and neater installation. We recommend using a B/RB model. For more efficient cooling we recommend a shroud and the Mopar Performance Viscous Fan package.

• Due to the difference in location of the coil and distributor between the A engine and the B/RB or Hemi engine models, in any A engine to B/RB or Hemi swap your wiring will have to be fabricated (lengthened). Now is a great time to change to the MP electronic ignition system, if you haven’t already done so.

• An MP high flow motor home thermostat is recommended. They come in 160º/180º and 195º styles.

• In most cases, drive shaft fabrication will be necessary if the rear axle assembly style and/or the transmission model are changed. For example; going from the 904 to the 727 transmission will require shortening the drive shaft as well as a different yoke or using a conversion U-joint.

TECH TIPS FOR 66-72 B, 70-74 E, 66-73 C-BODY HEMI SWAPS

Our Flexible Hemi/BRB Dipstick works with our Hemi Conversion Kit and all factory B/RB or original Hemi application.

All Hemi Conversions • All B/RBDakota 273/318/340 & 360.

Braided stainless steel construction. Come with hose, indicator and mount-ing bracket. May require heat wrap if touching headers.

AN EASY SOLUTION TO

A COMMON PROBLEM!

2025 N.E. 123rd St., Seattle WA 98125

Warranty

Warranty is limited to workmanship and materials of this product. We will repair or replace any defective part or component at no cost to the customer.

Customer assumes all risks and responsibilities connected with the use of this product. In

purchasing this product, the customer understands that Schumacher Creative Services cannot be held responsible for injury or physical damage due to improper installation or use.