Body | Natural perfumesModern perfumeThe majority of the compounds used in modern fragrances are

produced by a very small number of large companies. Synthetics

have almost entirely eclipsed natural ingredients and traditional

methods of perfumery have been replaced in the interests of

mass production. The use of artificial scent has its advantages for

the industry. Firstly, continuity between batches can be

guaranteed. Your second and third bottles of Chanel No. 5 are

likely to smell identical to your first as, unlike natural extracts,

artificial chemicals are less prone to variations in climate, harvest

failure and other environmental issues. Secondly, many traditional

components are ethically or economically unobtainable. For

instance ambergris (secreted by the sperm whale and washed to

shore) is prohibitively rare and expensive. Thirdly, artificial

ingredients are much cheaper – ensuring a high profit margin.

Unfortunately, current manufacturing methods come at a

cost. Some artificial musks have been shown to disrupt

endocrine function and contaminate breast milk. Diethyl

phthalate, commonly used as a vehicle for fragrance, has been

shown to build up in the body – the long-term effects of which

remain to be seen. Many fragrances also include benzyl acetate,

ethanol and acetone – substances which have been linked to

respiratory disorders and depression.

Natural perfumery has seen a renaissance over the last few

years as consumers look for safer products – as a result many

perfumers now favour a base of almond or jojoba oil, rather than

alcohol. Fabienne Christenson, president of natural perfume

company Possets, (possets.com) has seen an increased

demand for traditional elements such as patchouli. Once

shunned for its inexpensive and lingering nature, she notes that it

has “now come to be prized for its complexity and diversity.”

Natural versus synthetic?The definition of ‘synthetic’ ingredients is a hotly contested issue

in the world of perfume. The problem stems from the fact that

the term is used to describe different things. Literally, ‘synthetic’

means ‘not of natural origin’ or ‘composed artificially.’ It is

therefore correct to say that compounds produced through

chemical manufacture are synthetic. Confusingly, however, a

perfume can be both natural and synthetic. Botanically-derived

ingredients can be used to simulate otherwise unavailable

compounds, and in recent years this process has become

increasingly sophisticated. Manufacturers can synthesise scents

such as Egyptian, Siberian and red musk by combining

naturally-derived ingredients. So, whilst technically synthetic,

these blends allow consumers to enjoy the familiar scents of

civet and musk without chemicals or cruelty.

Improved extraction methods allow huge variety from a

single ingredient. “In the old days, distillation would guarantee

that an essential oil would have a dry scent to it – rose attar

would resemble dried petals – nowadays a more gentle

approach to gathering, such as CO2 extraction ensures a

truer, fresher aroma,” says Fabienne.

Beyond essential oilDespite a growing interest in ecologically-sound perfume, it has

yet to shake off its rather dowdy image. Natural scents available

on the high street are often uninspiring floral creations. Yet, with a

little digging and experimentation it’s possible to find sophisticated

scents which evoke safe old-school glamour.

A subtly-nuanced aroma is unlikely to

be composed only of essential oils –

which should not be used undiluted

on the skin unless directed by a

qualified aromatherapist. Natural does

not necessarily mean safe, for essential

oils can prove toxic if incorrectly used.

Unlike simple essential oil blends, perfume

is constructed according to aesthetic

considerations. So, although essential

oils may feature, they are likely to be

combined with other plant-

derived compounds, tinctures

and infusions.

Back to basicsIn ancient times, perfume was

created by steeping flowers to release

their aromas. Pliny the Elder described

mixing herbs with oils and water and

Classic combinationsChypre This is the name given to a scent with top notes of citrus and a baseaccord of oakmoss and amber. If you want to try making your own version, trymixing lemon and lavender oils with a drop of oakmoss absolute from Oils 4 Life(oils4life.co.uk). Dilute in a suitable carrier oil. Cologne Although this term now describes any essential oils diluted in alcohol, itwas originally the name of a scent created by Giovanni Farina in 1709. Althoughhis recipe remains a closely guarded secret, the blend is believed to containbergamot, lime, orange blossom and herbs. The emphasis on top notes makesthis a zingy, fresh fragrance. At home, experiment with fresh mint, lime andlavender steeped in distilled water. Alternatively, try combining a few drops ofneroli, organic bergamot and lavender in a carrier oil (all available from EssentialOils Online – call 01603 433 397 or visit essentialoilsonline.co.uk).Fougère or ‘fern’ in French, this refers to a warm, herbaceous combination basedon lavender, coumarin and oakmoss. To make your own, add lavender oil andfresh rosemary to a carrier oil. When the scent has developed, add a few drops ofcedar oil and dab sparingly on pulse points.Amber Although this is a note in its own right, the term is also used to describescents combining labdanum, musk, vanilla and flowers. To make your own,combine vanilla essential oil with musk-like angelica extract.

Lavenderand rose

petals canbe steepedin distilledwater andspritzed

onto linens

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