HAWAII REP 2010 - Birdquest

1 Birdquest: Hawaii 2010

HAWAII

12 – 25 APRIL 2010

TOUR REPORT LEADERS: MIKE WATSON Our seventh visit to the ‘world capital of endangered species’ recorded a modest total of 93 species but these included all 24 endemic to the ‘main’ islands (or 26 if the five forms of elepaio are split into three species), six of which are classified in Birdlife International’s ‘critically endangered’ category: Palila (the last of Hawaii’s grosbeak honeycreepers); Akohekohe (the spectacular largest surviving honeycreeper); Maui Parrotbill (ever-elusive and glimpsed by only two of us); Akikiki (a.k.a. Kauai Creeper); Akekee (a.k.a. Kauai Akepa) and Puaiohi, one of Hawaii’s two remaining solitaires. A further six ‘endangered’ endemics included: Hawaiian Duck; Newell’s Shearwater; Akiapolaau, with its unfeasible bill; Hawaii Creeper; Akepa (the only hole-nesting honeycreeper) and Maui Creeper. Another 10 ‘vulnerable’ and three ‘near-threatened’ species included: Black-footed and Laysan Albatrosses; Hawaiian Petrel; Hawaiian Goose, Hawk and Coot; the enigmatic Bristle-thighed Curlew (23!); Elepaio (of five different forms); Omao; Oahu and Kauai Amakihi; Anianiau and Iiwi. We also saw another four species represented by distinctive local forms: Common Moorhen; ‘Hawaiian’ Stilt; Black Noddy and Short-eared Owl. Another ornithological highlight of a memorable tour was some great seabirding: White and Red-tailed Tropicbirds, Brown and Red-footed Boobies; Great Frigatebirds; Spectacled (or Grey-backed) and Common Fairy Terns plus Brown Noddy. We also added another three species to the Birdquest Hawaii list, which now stands at a dizzy total of 139 – a vagrant Curlew Sandpiper, two adult Long-tailed Skuas and an unwanted introduction, Indian Peafowl. We tried our best not to look at the numerous introduced species but sadly most of them are unavoidable. Hawaii’s scenery certainly matches its avian splendours, whether it is the breathtaking volcanic landscape of the Big Island with its active lava flows, marooned patches of ancient native forest, perfect cinder cones, the erupting vent of Kilauea or the awesome caldera of Haleakala on Maui, Hawaii is blessed with some incredible natural wonders! Not to mention the palm trees gently swaying in the trade winds and the rolling Pacific breakers of Oahu’s North Shore or Kauai’s spectacular Waimea Canyon and Alakai Wilderness. Hawaii’s endemic bird family, the Hawaiian honeycreepers, is without a doubt the main reason why most birders make the long journey to the world’s most isolated archipelago. They represent one of the best examples of adaptive radiation, the process, whereby a successful colonizing species rapidly diverges into several new species as, with little or no competition, it fills previously empty ecological niches. Descending from a single North American cardueline finch species, the Hawaiian


Honeycreepers have evolved into a most unlikely and spectacular array of different species. Although there are now only 17 left of an original total of 51 (15 of these can be found on the ‘main’ islands), they alone make the effort required to reach Hawaii well worthwhile. Because many of the surviving honeycreepers are following the same pattern of range shrinkage, as did other species before they became extinct, time is definitely of the essence! First on our island-hopping schedule was Oahu, ‘the gathering place’ and easily the most populated island, which is now home to more than 905,000 Hawaiians. Consequently its avifauna has felt the pressure of man more than any other and there are probably now only two of its endemic native forest birds still extant: Oahu Elepaio and Oahu Amakihi. The former can usually be found in one of its last outposts, a quiet forested valley near the island’s capital, Honolulu, but as its population is now small it can take some digging out. After some searching of their chosen gully in the rain our efforts were rewarded by some good, prolonged views of four birds, a much better showing than usual by this, often frustrating, species. The background chorus of introduced species was rather distracting when listening for the harsh call of the elepaio and included the sweet songs of White-rumped Shamas, Red-billed Leiothrixes and Northern Cardinals along with the constant chattering of Japanese White-eyes. A little behind schedule we made our way east, away from the bustling freeways of Honolulu and towards the windward side of the island and a series of very scenic overlooks that produced our first seabirds: Laysan Albatross; Wedge-tailed Shearwaters; Red-footed Boobies; Great Frigatebird; hundreds of Sooty Terns at their breeding colony and 20 Brown Noddies. We also spotted a couple of the rare Hawaiian Monk Seal, hauled up on the tern island, albeit rather distant. Always a surprise for first time visitors to Hawaii is the abundance of Pacific Golden (or should that be ‘garden’?) Plovers - every lawn and public area of short grass seems to have one, which defends its tiny feeding territory throughout the winter! However, they make a pleasant diversion from the hundreds of introduced birds such as Common Mynas, Spotted and Zebra Doves and Red-crested Cardinals and many were coming into their smart gold-spangled breeding plumage. One of the most eagerly anticipated birds of the tour was the enigmatic Bristle-thighed Curlew, as ever very easy to find feeding amongst plantains in the rough of one of Oahu’s golf courses. We continued on, passing an ancient Chinese cemetery overlooking the shore before we reached the James Campbell NWR (National Wildlife Refuge), where the point blank views of the curlews were breathtaking, including birds perching on fence posts! These very special birds are only known to breed in Western Alaska and scatter to winter on islands all over the Pacific. On the shallow pools of the refuge itself we added a couple of Hawaii’s endemic waterbirds: Hawaiian Coot and Hawaiian Stilt as well as the very bright, endemic form of Common (or Laughing) Moorhen some ducks of mixed ancestry and our first Wandering Tattlers, creeping furtively around the weedy fringes. Just like last time round we also managed to find a Hawaiian lifer for David on day one of the tour – Curlew Sandpiper, a true Hawaiian rarity, which was beginning to show some red feathers of breeding plumage. We traversed the island back to Oahu’s south coast after a successful first day’s birding and enjoyed our first encounter with Hawaii’s excellent seafood. Next morning, just outside Honolulu, we found the island’s other remaining native landbird, the pretty, yellow Oahu Amakihi, (our first Hawaiian Honeycreeper!) in a wooded area high above the city, its presence advertised by its trilling song. Our vantage point commanded panoramic views of the city below and revealed the true shape of Diamond Head, the huge volcano crater that vies with the skyscrapers of Waikiki for dominance of the Honolulu skyline. Finally we joined the joggers and other folks enjoying the sunshine in Kapiolani Park, where pretty Common Fairy Terns were nesting precariously on the boughs of large fig trees there, a fitting end to some great birding on Oahu.


Our next stop was Hawaii, often known simply as the Big Island. It is aptly named, as at 10,000 sq km (and still growing) it is a larger landmass than all the other islands in the archipelago combined. It is also the youngest and has five volcanoes: Kohala; Mauna Kea (4205m and the highest mountain in the world if measured from its base on the floor of the ocean); Hualalai; Mauna Loa (Mauna Kea is actually a side vent of the Mauna Loa) and Kilauea (the latter three have erupted in historic times and in fact the last one is still going). The Big Island is also an EBA in its own right, no. #218, and BirdLife International report that it was originally home to five endemic genera, although sadly only one of them is still extant, Loxoides, represented by the Palila. Hawaii as a whole has lost a tremendous variety of endemic bird species. Every island had one to three species of flightless rails, there were two species of forest-dwelling ibises, another eight geese in addition to the Nene, a short-winged Wood Harrier, four Stilt-Owls and there were also at least five species of large raven-sized crows. Although BirdLife International sensibly take their time in classifying birds as extinct, in view of the general lack of rediscoveries they are perhaps rather optimistic in clinging on to the following lost species (date last seen in the wild in brackets): Kamao (1981), Oahu Creeper (1985); Olomao (1988); O’u (1989); Nukupu’u (1996) and the poor Po’o-uli (2004). Sadly there are now only six bird species still extant, which are endemic to the Big Island: Hawaiian Hawk; Hawaii Elepaio; Palila; Akiapolaau; Hawaiian Creeper and Akepa, although surely any island with six endemics has got to be worth a visit! Radiocarbon-dating points to mass human-era extinction, 800-2000 years ago, and since the arrival of man in the islands the devastated Hawaiian avifauna has been battered by almost every conceivable threat from hunting by early settlers (the Polynesians’ ceremonial cloaks contained the feathers of many thousands of individual birds!), forest clearance (less than 40% of land is now covered by native-dominated vegetation), introduced predators (rats, cats, dogs and mongooses – except for Kauai in the case of the latter), browsing animals (pigs, deer and goats), introduced plants (notably gorse, which prevents the recovery of the native forest), birds and arthropods (ants and wasps), diseases (viral pox and protozoan avian malaria carried by Culex mosquitoes) and of course disturbance by the increasing human population. Meanwhile back to the 2010 tour! We arrived to find the weather on the Big Island deteriorating to a cold and wet afternoon and between showers a quick visit to a municipal park in Hilo, the main city on the windward side of the Big Island, produced a few waterbirds including eight Hawaiian Geese, a Hawaiian Coot a Wandering Tattler and four Canada geese, which showed mixed characters, not fitting the bill for either of the two most likely candidates for natural vagrancy to Hawaii - minima (Cackling) and leucopareia (Aleutian). With limited time we headed north along the coast in the rain to Laupahoehoe Point, where we saw our first Black Noddies (of the distinctive orange-legged local form) skipping over the waves off the point itself and gathering on distant black volcanic cliffs, but little else. Gradually gaining height our vehicles ascended the recently improved Saddle Road next morning, the high pass between the two dominant volcanoes Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa, crossing vast lava flows and passing patches of stunted native Ohia forest. Over the rather indistinct watershed of the high lava field plateau on the leeward side of the island we headed to Pu’u La’au, the reserve set up to protect the unique Mamane-Naio forest habitat of the Palila. This is the last of the of the Big Island finch-like drepanids, although there is recent fossil evidence that it occurred on Kauai too (and maybe even Maui), going extinct there some time before 1750. This fantastic bird was found remarkably easily this time up here in the cool clear air and we were able to watch a pair at close range, the female feeding on the peapod-like fruit of a Mamane tree in its unique style, holding the fruit with one foot and opening it with its impressive grosbeak bill. Other new birds here were: Short-eared Owl, Hawaii Elepaio of the palest form, ‘Mauna Kea’ (bryani), and our second drepanid, Hawaii Amakihi, which was happily very common. We also spotted our first endemic butterfly, the minute Hawaiian Blue (Udara blackburni), which resembles the Green Hairstreak of home. Once on


our way again paused for a picnic lunch in a lava field below the gigantic Mauna Loa before continuing west. Much of the saddle area of the Big Island is covered by relatively new lava flows, however there are small patches of ancient native forest (kipukas) dominated by Ohia and Koa trees, that have been spared destruction by the rivers of fire. Following a well-worn trail, we crossed a dramatic ‘a’a’ lava flow (a lumpy form of lava created by a flow with a higher oxygen content), that resembled a giant coal bunker and headed out towards ‘the big kipuka’, which has been a reliable site for Akiapolaau in recent years. Hawaii Elepaio, of the ‘Volcano’ (ridgwayi) form proved to be quite plentiful here, as did Omao, the gaudy Iiwi and Apapane – David’s favourite and the true ‘voice of the Hawaiian forest’ and eventually we located our main target, an ‘Aki’, albeit a drab juvenile. At least we could watch it using its unique shorter lower mandible to chisel away at a tree. Now its closest relatives are all gone no other bird has a tool kit quite like this. Another unforgettable Hawaiian experience! Unfortunately the ‘Aki’ is getting harder to find and may be going the same way as its lost relatives. The kipuka was full of birds, including more new honeycreepers such as: Hawaii Creeper, for some; gaudy and very noisy scarlet Iiwis, one of the most spectacular honeycreepers and smart crimson Apapanes as well as plenty of the ‘volcano’ form of Hawaii Elepaio and Omao, one of a pair of surviving Hawaiian solitaires. As the afternoon progressed the weather became cooler and the mist thicker so we called it a day and made the long trek back across the lava field to the main road. Sadly our afternoon was spoilt when we discovered that our cars had been broken into, a reminder never to leave anything in a vehicle that you don’t mind having stolen. During the recession the job prospects of Hawaii’s youth are bleak and even if they can find work they cannot afford to buy property at today’s prices. Car crime is a more attractive option for some, targeting the rented cars of tourists, until the police apparently set up a sting and send them to the local ‘pen’ for a while. With low cloud and rain forecast for the windward side of the island we decided to make the long drive (by Hawaiian standards!) around the southern coast of the island to collect the last of the three forms of Hawaiian Elepaio: ‘Kona’ Elepaio (sandwichensis). Hawaii’s other endemic butterfly, the Kamehameha (named after the first King to unite, or rather conquer, Hawaii) was in the car park here and after a brief look at a showy elepaio in a forest otherwise bereft of native birds we returned to Hilo to complete some formalities at the police station. It was fortunate we had an extra day on the Big Island this year! In the evening we took a short drive along the coast to Kilauea’s East Rift Zone, where a lava flow was burning its way towards the sea. En route a Hawaiian Hawk flew across the road for car two only. We could watch the lava from a very safe distance and as darkness fell the true extent of the flow could be seen as the molten rock illuminated the hillside. Unfortunately it would be a couple of weeks before it reached the sea and created a more impressive spectacle. Hilo is also home to one of the best restaurants in Hawaii and we enjoyed plenty of fresh catch here! Situated on the east coast of Hawaii it is also the town most affected in the past by tsunamis, recently by the Chilean earthquake of 27 February this year. Fortunately this wave was rather minor and the technology now in place can give the residents of Hawaii advance warning of future larger waves. However, the 1960 Chilean tsunami created waves more than 11 metres high and left 61 people dead in Hilo and 282 seriously injured. At last the break in the weather we had been waiting for arrived and it was time for our visit to the famous Hakalau NWR, a large tract of native Ohia-Koa forest, home to all of the pieces still missing from our Big Island jigsaw. Descending the track into the sanctuary through an open-canopied forest full of dozens of Apapanes and Iiwis we quickly added another sought-after honeycreeper, the hole-nesting tangerine Akepa, which seems to be doing well here. Hawaii Amakihi was also common here and eventually the whole group caught up with Hawaii Creeper, one of which afforded some very nice views, whilst chipping away at the dead limb of an Ohia tree in nuthatch fashion. Omao was also very common here as was the tiny little Hawaiian Blue butterfly. Unfortunately we failed to find another ‘Aki’ here. They are apparently becoming harder to find in Hakalau of late, although David reminds me they have never been easy and are eminently missable on a single visit. To experience a


chorus of honeycreepers in a Hawaiian forest that lasts all morning and well into afternoon is a quite unique experience. This prolonged activity often comes as a surprise to birders used to rising at some unearthly hour well before dawn to get to forest birding sites elsewhere in the world, in time for a short burst of early morning action! There was still time in the afternoon for another crack at the ‘big kipuka’. Although we were again unsuccessful in our attempts to find a male ‘Aki’ we heard one of these birds briefly. Iiwis and Apapanes abounded again and another Hawaii Creeper afforded some wonderful views in the afternoon sunshine. We also caught a glimpse of a Giant Hawaiian Darner dragonfly, the largest species occurring in the USA. The majority of the southern tip of the Big Island is home to the impressive Volcanoes National Park and having seen all of the possible endemics we spent our final morning admiring the impressive volcanic features of the park, rather like on a geography class field trip. Of course it was impossible not to see some more birds and Apapanes were particularly common here. Their calls echoed around the sinkhole at the entrance of the amazing Thurston lava tube. It was difficult to imagine how the lava tube (a long horizontal tunnel) could have been made by a natural force and not some kind of precision mining machine! The next volcanic feature was the Kilauea Iki caldera, a huge dormant offshoot of its much larger neighbour, the Halema’uma’u crater of Kilauea, which has been erupting on and off since at least 1823 and recently its emissions have from time to time increased to a dangerous level. Kilauea can spew out up to 2000 tons of sulphur dioxide daily – it is not every day that you can gaze at the smoke plume of an active erupting volcano! It was quite ironic that we had travelled so far to look at volcanoes (amongst other things!) when a certain eruption in Iceland was causing havoc back home in Europe. We watched events unfold and as the situation worsened we wondered when we would be able to return and what we would return to! Although volcanic activity was lower than our last visit to Hawaii this also meant we were able to continue along the ‘Chain of Craters’ road to the south coast, seeing four Nenes and three Kalij Pheasants along the way, looking a little less out of place this time as they crossed the road and disappeared into the forest. After crossing the vast lava fields we reached the sea where the avian highlight was a small colony of Black Noddies, blending in perfectly against their black nesting cliffs. We were also able to watch their comings and goings, sweeping gracefully just above the waves that were crashing into arches at the foot of the cliffs below us. The flights to our next destination, the island of Maui, ‘the valley isle’, was uneventful except for the large numbers of uniformed military personnel waiting for various inter-island flights in Honolulu (there appeared to be some on all of our flights this time actually), a reminder that the USA is at war at the moment. We turned in for the night looking forward to the next day’s birding, which, as always would be one of the defining moments of the tour. Maui (1861 sq km) is another island rich in endemism and is home to two of the most sought-after remaining drepanids – Akohekohe, the largest surviving honeycreeper and Maui Parrotbill, an enigmatic bark-pecker with another highly adapted bill. Maui also has an impressive dormant (although only for a very short while indeed in geological terms) volcano, the 3055m Haleakala, which means ‘house of the sun’ and the windward side of the island still has some excellent native Ohia-Koa forest. We descended into the Waikamoi Preserve, in Haleakala National Park early next morning and worked our way down its narrow but very robust boardwalk towards a viewing platform overlooking some flowering Ohias and moss-covered Koas. Before we reached it we were immediately rewarded with a pair of Akohekohes, even before we had a good look at the much commoner species here! They were frequenting a large flowering Ohia tree and one even perched up on top of the tree for all to see for a while, through convenient ‘windows’ in the forest canopy, before they moved on down slope. Throughout the rest of the day we had many great views of Apapanes, Iiwis and the local form of Hawaii Amakihi, as well as the other honeycreeper, which is endemic to Maui – Alauahio or Maui Creeper. A couple of us also had the briefest of views of Maui Parrotbill but sadly they did not want to show for everyone like the Akohekohes. All too soon it was time to leave this magical place and wind our way back up to the


Hosmer Grove and then on to summit of Haleakala, in good time for a beautiful sunset over the sea of cloud below us. We could even see the distant observatory of Mauna Kea on the Big Island far to the east. The summit of Haleakala is home to an amazing endemic plant, Silversword, a sunflower relative, which produces an enormous 3m tall flowering spike in its last year of life, after about 25 years. It has been brought back from the brink of extinction in the national park thanks to a new fence, which keeps out hungry goats and there is a good number of these exquisite plants at the summit, although none of them were not in flower. We also enjoyed stupendous views over the multi-hued caldera to the east and a pair of much more authentic looking and suitably wary Nenes as well as some less wary Chukars. As the light faded we were treated to some nice views of a couple of Hawaiian Petrels returning to their burrows high on the mountain after a day spent far out to sea off Maui. Unfortunately a strong and rather cold wind was blowing around the caldera rim so we did not linger long before we headed off back down the mountain via at least one million hairpin bends. The fourth and final island of our Hawaiian odyssey was David’s home island, pretty Kauai, ‘the garden isle’. The main ornithological attraction of Kauai is the Alakai swamp, a wet montane 1000m+ plateau in the centre of the island, which is dissected by tributaries of the awe-inspiring Waimea Canyon, a gigantic chasm of Grand Canyon proportions. Much of Kauai’s interior consists of imposing escarpments and plunging waterfalls and it also shares a claim to being the wettest place on earth (equal with Cherrapungee in northeast India) at 11.5m of rain per year and that is a lot of rain! It is difficult to imagine another small island having such impressive features. After checking into our hotel we were keen to start our exploration of Kauai. On the north coast, Kilauea Lighthouse is Kauai’s most important seabird breeding site and on our arrival there we were greeted by the wonderful spectacle of a hillside covered by nesting Red-footed Boobies. Soon afterwards we notched up two species of tropicbird, both Red and White-tailed, as well as Laysan Albatross! There is a small colony of the latter at Kilauea Point and we counted at least 23 birds during our visit, some of which zoomed low overhead, a stunning spectacle! A small group of habituated Nenes were scattered around the headland and we could also hear the strange gurgling calls of Wedge-tailed Shearwaters from within their burrows all around us. Some of them were sitting in view, only a couple of metres away, where they looked completely different to the birds we had seen earlier shearing over the waves around the coast. A smart Brown Booby was perched on an offshore islet and up to three Great Frigatebirds marauded around the headland, looking for an easy meal. Three Humpback Whales drifted past offshore, their progress marked by their ‘burst car radiator’ blows. Unfortunately the weather was rather changeable today and a succession of heavy showers interrupted our birding at times. However, more than one of us sought refuge in the nice gift shop at Kilauea Point, some several times! In a nearby suburban area we found another small gathering of albatrosses, with several large fluffy chicks. Fortunately there is no rubbish the chicks can eat around here, unlike the desperately sad situation on Midway. The nearby taro fields of Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge (NWR) were also very birdy with more Nenes and our first Hawaiian Ducks of pure provenance. There were also good numbers of other waterbirds, including Hawaiian Coots, Pacific Golden Plovers and Hawaiian Stilts. The refuge is a working agricultural area with an agreement to farm in a way beneficial to wildlife, which certainly appears to be thriving here. We ended our first day on Kauai with a seawatch from Lihue in the hope of some Hawaiian Petrels. Aided by a strong onshore wind we tallied over 400 Wedge-tailed Shearwaters in just over an hour, all moving north along the coast. Sifting through them we spotted some other interesting seabirds, including a couple of Laysan Albatrosses, three Sooty Shearwaters, a Brown and 57 Red-footed Boobies, a couple of Great Frigatebirds but first prize went to the five Hawaiian Petrels that passed fairly close inshore, second went to a couple of Newell’s Shearwaters that bombed past towards the horizon and third to a Black-footed Albatross for CG and Angie only. Our Kauai pelagic followed next morning. We had a larger craft this year and planned to explore even further offshore in search of pterodromas. Unlike last time we were able to spot feeding flocks of birds at greater distances and speed over to them, resulting in some great encounters during the


course of the voyage. We came across two Hawaiian Petrels but happily also our main target bird, Newell’s Shearwater, of which we saw at least 20 amongst the rafts of Wedge-taileds. We had timed our tour this year a couple of weeks later than usual in the hope of catching up with this smart but sadly endangered seabird, which breeds in the remote and inaccessible highlands of Kauai. There were plenty of smiles on board today! Six Spectacled Terns were new today and other species seen on the pelagic included five Laysan Albatrosses, White-tailed and Red-tailed Tropicbirds, around 30 Brown Boobies, six Great Frigatebirds, around 10 Sooty Terns, 60 Brown and 200 Black Noddies. Back in Lihue an evening sea watch resulted in another procession of Wedge-tailed Shearwaters but only four Sooties and three distant Newell’s of note in addition this time. Kauai’s native forest bird survivors of the human-related onslaughts are now more vulnerable to natural disasters. For instance Hurricance Iniki is thought to have dealt the final blow to several species when it smashed into the ‘garden isle’ in 1992, clearing the forest canopy from exposed ridges there. As on the other islands, seeing most of the surviving drepanids requires a visit to lush higher-elevation forests where mosquitoes carrying the lethal avian malaria haven’t yet caused havoc. David knows his home patch, the Alakai Wilderness of Kauai, like no other guide, having spent many years in the field there, and he has an intimate knowledge of both the myriad trails that penetrate this almost inaccessible area as well as its elusive avian inhabitants. We set off on our foray into this magical cathedral of endemism with some degree of trepidation, knowing that some very tricky terrain lay ahead of us. For several hours we slipped, slid and cursed our way in and out of one of David’s study areas picking off the easy trio of Kauai’s endemic land birds along the way – the little lemon yellow Anianiau, Kauai Amakihi (with the largest bill of its kind) and the perky little Kauai Elepaio, the ‘garden isle’s’ representative of Hawaii’s closely related group of monarch flycatchers. However, it was the critically endangered remaining trio of endemic birds we were making such a big effort for today. One by one we caught up with them. First of all, Akekee, the fork-tailed Kauai Akepa, a siskin-like honeycreeper high in an Ohia tree. Next came Akikiki or Kauai Creeper, characteristically foraging on the trunks and main boughs of trees like a nuthatch in its search for small invertebrates. Finally we heard the beautiful song of the critically endangered Puaiohi, Kauai’s surviving solitaire and Hawaii’s rarest passerine. Remaining high in the canopy we eventually located it, sitting quietly on a branch. It was a big relief to see all six endemics in one hike for once thus sparing us a strenuous return to the Alakai. On the walk-in we crossed several streams where the fantastic dragonfly Giant Hawaiian Darner appeared to be quite common, patrolling back and forth, an impressive sight indeed. After we were done there was sill some time and a little energy left for us to enjoy some great views of Waimea Canyon, one of Hawaii’s best-kept secrets. It is actually one of the geological wonders of the world at 20km long and over 800m deep. Waimea means dirty water and every island has a place of the same name but Kauai’s is obviously by far the most well known. After another productive day we retired to our comfortable hotel and another great meal. Hawaii is an excellent place to try some Pacific seafood with superb fresh catch like Mahimahi (Dolphin fish or Dorado), Ono (which means delicious in Hawaiian) and Ahi (Yellow fin Tuna) all readily available. Again we tried plenty! Our last morning was a leisurely one with a sea watch for the diehards before breakfast that fizzled out with less than half the number of Wedgies passing but we still managed a couple of Laysan Albatrosses, four more Sooties, a Brown Booby amongst 20 or so Red-footeds and another couple of Great Frigatebirds. We then headed back to Kilauea Point for a happy farewell in bright sunshine this time. The Laysan Albatrosses, Red-tailed Tropicbirds and Great Frigatebirds in particular put on a wonderful show as did a breaching Humpback Whale, a truly fitting end to our action-packed visit to these fascinating islands. However, our eminent museum director, Norbert, was stunned by the lack of wildlife knowledge amongst the general public on Kauai. While photographing plants he was asked if he was observing hummingbirds (there are none on Hawaii!). Another person thought the Wedge-tailed Shearwaters sitting quietly at the entrances of their burrows at Kilauea Lighthouse must be the offspring of the Nenes! Finally a couple of hikers in the Alakai could not name a single one of


Kauai’s six endemic bird species. Instead the general population of the ‘garden isle’ appears to rejoice in its abundant feral domestic fowl and red dirt. One wonders what goes on at school here. Finally a special thanks to everyone who made this trip such a success, despite the disappointment of the car break-in and the perpetual volcanic ash worries that niggled away at us all the time. If you are thinking of visiting Hawaii please do not delay and catch one of the best bird shows on earth before the curtain falls for the last time.


SYSTEMATIC LIST Species which were heard but not seen are indicated by the symbol (H). Species which were not personally recorded by the leaders are indicated by the symbol (NL). Conservation threat categories and information are taken from the BirdLife International website: http://www.birdlife.org/datazone/index.html DIOMEDEIDAE Black-footed Albatross Diomedea nigripes (NL): One for CG and Angie only off Kauai on our first

Lihue sea watch. Considered ENDANGERED by BirdLife International, it has a decreasing population estimated at 120,000 individuals. Threats include by-catch by drift netting and particularly long-line fishing. It is listed as endangered owing to a projected future rapid population decline over the next three generations.

Laysan Albatross Diomedea immutabilis: One off Oahu was followed by many wonderful eye-level views off the north coast of Kauai at Kilauea Lighthouse, where we counted 23 and five at sea on our Kauai pelagic. There were also a couple of fluffy chicks among 10 birds in a residential area on Kauai and a total of four during our Lihue sea watches. After recovering from a low in the early 20th century when Japanese feather-hunters took a heavy toll it is considered NEAR THREATENED by BirdLife International as its population of 1.18 million individuals is precautionarily projected to undergo a moderately rapid decline.

PROCELLARIIDAE Wedge-tailed Shearwater Puffinus pacificus: Many superb views of this graceful tubenose, nowadays

the most common shearwater in the main Hawaiian Islands. Around 10 off Oahu were followed by some close studies of birds at their burrows at Kilauea Lighthouse, which included some dark morph birds. Our Lihue sea watches produced 424 and around 500 on successive evenings, with some birds visiting presumed burrows at Ninini Point, but our early morning effort there only resulted in around 200 in a much lighter wind. An estimated 500 were seen on our Kauai pelagic. On a worldwide scale the Wedge-tailed Shearwater is still quite numerous, with a total population of well over a million breeding pairs, though current numbers are considerably lower than former levels.

Sooty Shearwater Puffinus griseus: Our Lihue sea watches produced three, four and four respectively with another five seen on our Kauai pelagic. Considered NEAR THREATENED by BirdLife International with a decreasing population of 20 million individuals. Threats include by-catch by long line fishing as well as the harvesting of 250,000 young birds annually.

Newell’s Shearwater Puffinus newelli: We operated our tour two weeks later this year in the hope of seeing this smart little Hawaiian endemic shearwater and we were not disappointed. After two distant birds on our first sea watch off Lihue we enjoyed some excellent close encounters with around 20 on the pelagic. Another three the same evening off Lihue represented our best ever showing for this one. Considered ENDANGERED by BirdLife International with a decreasing population estimated at 33,000-38,600(!) individuals threats include: damage and modification to breeding habitat by hurricanes, invasive plants and introduced mammals as well as predation by the latter. Our previous autumn visits had coincided with the first flights of fledglings, some of which are confused by artificial lights and become grounded to be killed by domestic animals such as cats and dogs and in collisions with vehicles (apparently they cannot take off from level land). Around 1,500 fledglings are recovered annually – more than 30,000 in total since 1979. Brother Matthias Newell was a missionary to Hawaii between 1886 and 1924.

Hawaiian Petrel Pterodroma sandwichensis: Our first encounter with this Hawaiian endemic was with a couple of birds returning to their burrows at 10,000’ above sea level on the


summit of Haleakala on Maui. We had some good views of another four during our first Lihue sea watch on Kauai followed by two from our pelagic. Considered VULNERABLE by BirdLife International, this highland-nester suffers from predation by introduced predators, and its population (estimated at 9,000–16,600 birds) is steadily declining. Note that the Hawaiian Islands used to be home to a second species of Pterodroma, the Gracile Petrel P. jugabilis. Remains are known from the Big Island and Oahu, and on at least the latter some of their bones were found in an archaeological context, so the bird obviously survived into the Polynesian period. Bird of the trip for CG.

PHAETHONTIDAE White-tailed Tropicbird Phaeton lepturus: Great views of this elegant seabird, the most lightweight

member of its genus. The first were two very distant birds in the vast Kilauea caldera on the Big Island, followed by around 10 on both of our visits to Kilauea Lighthouse on Kauai and another eight on our Kauai pelagic.

Red-tailed Tropicbird Phaeton rubricauda: Another lovely tropicbird giving superb views. The first were two distant birds off the southeast coast of Oahu, followed by up to 30 that enchanted us on each of visits to Kilauea Wildlife Refuge, where birds engaged in their impressive aerial displays, including their crazy backwards flying. One was also seen on our Kauai pelagic.

SULIDAE Brown Booby Sula leucogaster: We had to wait until Kauai this time, where our first was one

perched on an offshore islet at Kilauea Lighthouse. We had another two during our Lihue sea watches but saw a good number of around 30 on our Kauai pelagic.

Red-footed Booby Sula sula: The most numerous booby in Hawaiian waters. Our first were about two off Oahu, followed by about 600 at Kilauea Lighthouse, Kauai where there is a large colony. Also off Kauai a further 100 were seen on our first seawatch, with 10 on our pelagic and another 30 on our last seawatch. Birds in Hawaii belong to the race rubripes. Note the absence of dark morph birds (found in the Galapagos) in Hawaii.

FREGATIDAE Great Frigatebird Fregata minor: A respectable total of 18 were seen on the tour: one off Oahu, up to

four at Kilauea Lighthouse on two visits (including the only adult male), four during our Lihue sea watches and six on the Kauai pelagic.

ARDEIDAE Western Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis: This cosmopolitan species was encountered on Oahu, The Big

Island and Kauai. Introduced to eat insects detrimental to dairy and beef cattle, 105 birds from Florida were released in 1959 at one site each on Kauai, Molokai and Maui, and at two sites each on Oahu and the Big Island. Additional numbers were released on Oahu over the following two years. Nowadays it is most numerous on Oahu and Kauai.

Black-crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax: About 10 birds were present at James Campbell Wildlife Refuge on Oahu, another two in Waikiki, four on the Big Island and three on Kauai. Currently this species is the only non-introduced heron breeding in Hawaii, but a large heron is known to have inhabited windward Oahu sometime between about 800,000 and 120,000 years ago.

ANATIDAE [Canada Goose (Greater C G) Branta canadensis/Cackling Goose Branta hutchinsii: Four 'white-

cheeked' geese showing mixed characters in Hilo did not fit the criteria for either of the two forms of Cackling Goose occurring regularly in Hawaii. They were not small enough for minima, lacked its stubby bill and dark breast but didn’t sport the white neckband of leucopareia either, leaving us scratching our heads. Dr Thomas Hutchins was an English


naturalist and surgeon who worked for the Hudson’s Bay Company as Chief Factor in Fort Albany from 1774 to 1782. His ‘Observations on Hudson’s Bay’ was published in about 1780.]

Hawaiian Goose (Nene) Branta sandvicensis: Perhaps the symbol of conservation efforts in the islands and nowadays Hawaii’s official ‘state bird’, this attractive species was once on the brink of extinction. Saved by a captive breeding programme, its numbers have now recovered considerably following re-introduction efforts. Nevertheless the long-term future is still uncertain, especially on those islands that have mongooses and where more captive-bred birds continually need to be released. In fact 2100 were released between 1960-1990 on the Big Island, where the population in 1990 was still only 339 birds. Our first sighting was on the Big Island, where there were four in Volcanoes National Park. Next came eight birds at Hilo on the Big Island and six at Haleakala on Maui but the largest number was encountered on Kauai with around 20 at Kilauea Lighthouse, 13 on the taro fields of Hanalei NWR and 12 at Lihue. Considered VULNERABLE by BirdLife International with a small, although increasing population of 250-999. Threats include predation by introduced mammals as well as loss and alteration of habitat and drought. An average of only 35% of the population breeds each year, probably limited by food availability, which affects female condition. Note that while nowadays the Nene is the only extant goose in the Hawaiian Islands, there used to be four endemic species of ‘flightless geese’ or ‘moa nalo’, in the genera Chelychelynechen (which had a bill reminiscent of the beak of a tortoise!), Thambetochen and Ptaiochen. Recent DNA comparisons indicate that the colonizing species that gave rise to these was a duck rather than a true goose, and that evolution of these birds began about 3.6 million years ago. In addition there were the Forest Nene Branta hylobadistes (of which individuals ranged from fully-flighted to almost completely flightless) and an as yet undescribed Giant Hawaiian Goose, which was huge and flightless. Sadly these amazing creatures all became extinct, probably soon after the arrival of the first Polynesians.

Mallard Anas platyrhynchos: About 20 Mallard type ducks at James Campbell NWR on Oahu were of mixed ancestry. Ten at Hilo on the Big Island were similarly dodgy-looking.

Hawaiian Duck (Koloa) Anas wyvilliana: Undoubtedly the most boring Hawaiian endemic! The ducks at James Campbell NWR on Oahu are apparently a hybrid mix of this and the previous species. On Kauai however this problem has not prevailed and the 15 or so birds we saw at Hanalei NWR there were ‘pure’ Koloas. Another three at Lihue were seen a couple of times en route to sea watching. Considered ENDANGERED by BirdLife International with a decreasing population estimated at 2,200 birds. The primary threat to this species is hybridisation with feral Mallards but wetland loss and habitat modification is also a problem.

Northern Pintail Anas acuta: Four, including three drakes, were at James Campbell NWR. This species is a regular winter visitor to Hawaii.

Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata: A drake at James Campbell NWR was the only one seen. ACCIPITRIDAE Hawaiian Hawk (‘Io) Buteo solitarius: One across the road on the way to the Kilauea’s East Rift Zone

was only seen by car two but everyone caught up with it at Hakalau Forest NWR where we had several sightings of two or three of these peculiar-looking buzzards, at times performing a roller coaster sky dance and including one dark morph bird. While nowadays considered to be a Big Island endemic, fossils seem to indicate a previous presence on some of the other islands. A 1982 survey estimated the population to be between 1400 and 2500 birds, and apparently it is holding its own. Some continued habitat degradation or destruction may have a negative effect on this species, though luckily the Hawaiian Hawk seems to be quite opportunistic and versatile in its feeding habits (so much so that it sadly readily took captive-bred Hawaiian Crows Corvus hawaiiensis, now extinct in the wild). Note that two other raptors used to inhabit the


islands, the small Wood Harrier Circus dossenus, with shorter wings and longer legs than harriers elsewhere (it probably fed on birds just like the stilt-owls did), and a sea eagle, which may have fed on the extinct flightless ibises and ‘moa nalo’ (geese). Both probably disappeared after arrival of the Polynesians. Considered NEAR THREATENED by BirdLife International with a small but stable population estimated at only 1,100 on the Big Island only (although vagrants have reached Maui, Oahu and Kauai). Threats include the effects of introduced ungulates on their forest environment as well as conversion of land used for pasture and sugar cane to eucalyptus plantations.

PHASIANIDAE Black Francolin Francolinus francolinus: One was seen from the vehicles on the leeward slope of

Mauna Kea. This native of Asia is one of three francolins introduced into the Hawaiian Islands as game birds in the late fifties. This is one of the birds that thrive in the archipelago’s sugarcane plantations, which in Hawaii are slowly disappearing due to the high cost of labour. Note that this habitat is also readily used in the species’ native range. The only other place in the Pacific Ocean where Black Francolin is found (or any francolin for that matter) is Guam in the Marianas, an island which sadly has lost all of its native birds due to the accidental introduction of the Brown Tree Snake Boiga irregularis (though the snake was apparently introduced in the 1950s, the use of DDT may have kept it at bay until this pesticide was outlawed in the 1970s, followed by an explosion of the snake population). Fear exists that sooner or later this perilous reptile will inadvertently end up not only on other islands in the Marianas but also in Hawaii, given the frequent air traffic between Guam and Honolulu. There have already been sightings on Saipan and other islands in the Marianas, although the snake is not believed to have become established there yet.

Erckel’s Francolin Francolinus erckelii: Regular sightings at higher elevations on the Big Island and one on Kauai. Of all the introduced birds this species has one of the most restricted native ranges, as it is normally only found in North Ethiopia, Eritrea, and the Red Sea province of Sudan (where it is becoming increasingly rare). Theodor Erckel was a German taxidermist who became a servant and helper to Rüppell in 1825 and later worked as his assistant at Frankfurt University institute. The institute’s director, Cretzschmar and Rüppell quarrelled to such an extent that Rüppell withdrew in 1844 and Erckel took over as curator of the collections. Rüppell described the francolin and named it after Erckel in recognition of his loyal service.

Chukar (C Partridge) Alectoris chukar: A couple of roadside birds on the Big Island and seven on Haleakala. Small numbers of this introduced (in 1923 and subsequently) partridge were observed high on the slopes of Mauna Kea on Big Island.

Kalij Pheasant Lophura leucomelanos: Three for Mike only in the 'big kipuka' and then three en route to Hakalau NWR and finally another three seen crossing the road in Volcanoes National Park on the Big Island (note the recent name change from L. leucomelana). It was first introduced here in 1962, when 67 individuals from Michigan and Texas game farms were intentionally released at the Puu Waawaa Ranch. Since then this handsome Asian species (here of the nominate, Himalayan race) has increased alarmingly and has spread deep into native habitats, and to make things worse humans transported more individuals to suitable habitat that had not yet been invaded. In Hawaii Volcanoes National Park it has largely displaced the Green Pheasant Phasianus versicolor (a good example of how one introduced species can suffer from the introduction of another). The Kalij Pheasant is considered an important contributing factor in the spread of invasive plants into native forests (though, along with several other Galliformes it is also known to disperse some native plants), and it is also a threat since it feeds on rare endemic land snails. The latter by far beat the Hawaiian Honeycreepers in their sheer diversity and adaptive radiation. There is one endemic family, the Amastridae, in addition to at least 55 endemic genera among the dozen naturally occurring families, which collectively


contain some 760 endemic species named so far, many of which are single-island endemics. Sadly about three quarters of these species have already been extirpated since humans first arrived in Hawaii. The reduction in native land snails is also thought to be a factor involved in the decline of the Poo-Uli Melamprosops phaeosoma, the most endangered drepanid, of which only two individuals are known to survive in remote mountain forests on Maui. Alas Hawaii has a very strong hunting lobby (sadly much bigger than the conservation movement), making eradication of introduced game birds an unlikely scenario (even in forest reserves, there is a daily limit of the number of gamebirds that can be shot!).

Red Junglefowl Gallus gallus: Whilst we only saw domestic fowl on Oahu and the Big Island those on Kauai looked purer. However, they can be seen running around like farmyard chickens, even at the car rental drop-off and may better be deemed simply domestic fowl? This is the only feral bird species resulting from a Polynesian introduction, now no longer found on the other large islands due to mongoose predation. Beware though, as the original ‘junglefowl’ have mixed with domestic hens to varying degrees, with the ‘purest’ birds now found in Kauai’s highlands. The biggest difference between ‘pure’ junglefowl and feral hens from more recent stock shows up in the downy young. These are streaked (like pheasants) in ‘pure’ junglefowl, unlike the yellow of farmyard chicks! Interestingly the native Hawaiian word for the junglefowl is ‘moa’, the same word as used by the Maoris in New Zealand for their now extinct huge flightless birds.

Common Pheasant (Ring-necked P) Phasianus colchicus: Small numbers of this introduced species were seen on all four islands. This species is much less forest-bound than Kalij Pheasant.

Common Peafowl Pavo cristatus: A couple of sightings near Lihue on Kauai of this, yet another unwelcome introduced, species.

Wild Turkey Meleagris gallopavo: Several sightings on the Big Island at Pu’u La’au and Hakalau. This species has the distinction of being the first bird introduced by non-Polynesians (not counting the domestic pigeon – see below), in the early 19th century. With the idea of adding to Hawaiian food sources, Captain Vancouver presented King Kamehameha I with turkeys from North America. The King liberated them on the Big Island and forbade hunting them for several years so that they could become established. The initial introduction has been augmented several times, so that today the population is a genetic amalgam of several subspecies.

California Quail Callipepla californica: Around 25 at Pu’u La’au and another couple en route to Hakalau on the Big Island. These small game birds were introduced some time before 1855.

RALLIDAE Common Moorhen (C Gallinule) Gallinula chloropus: Around 10 of the endemic and threatened

race sandvicensis were seen on the freshwater ponds at James Campbell NWR on Oahu, however, it was more commonly encountered on Kauai, where we saw around 20 in the taro fields at Hanalei NWR and another seven near Lihue. Formerly it also occurred on Maui, Molokai and the Big Island as well. Surveys in the 1950s and 1960s estimated no more than 57 individuals, but the spread of aquaculture in the 1970s and 1980s has helped to boost this species’ numbers again.

Hawaiian Coot Fulica alai: This Hawaiian endemic was plentiful at James Campbell NWR where we saw about 20, with another at Waiakea Pond, Hilo and around 100 at Hanalei NWR. Following large-scale destruction of wetlands throughout its range this aquatic species declined dramatically during the 20th century. Nowadays the population fluctuates between 2000 and 4000 birds, and it is considered VULNERABLE by BirdLife International. Threats include wetland loss and degradation by introduced plants as well as predation by introduced mammals.


CHARADRIIDAE Pacific Golden Plover Pluvialis fulva: Numerous on all visited islands, with a daily maximum of

around 40 on Oahu. We even saw them high on the ridges of the Alakai. Many were coming into their strikingly patterned breeding plumage.

RECURVIROSTRIDAE Hawaiian Stilt Himantopus knudseni: About 20 birds were at the James Campbell NWR and 20 at

Hanalei NWR. This endemic form (which is usually lumped in Black-necked Stilt H. mexicanus, the latter in turn often included in Black-winged Stilt H. himantopus) differs from mainland Black-necked Stilts (among other features) by having black feathering extending noticeably further down the neck. The Hawaiian Stilt has suffered the same fate as the archipelago’s other native freshwater birds due to habitat loss, however they were probably one of the few species to benefit from the arrival of the first Hawaiians. Ancient taro fields provided ample habitat, but today such wetlands are few and far between. Nowadays it is the rarest stilt next to New Zealand’s Black Stilt H. novaezeelandiae, numbering about 1800 birds (1990s). Its survival depends on protection from predators in its core nesting areas.

SCOLOPACIDAE Wandering Tattler Heteroscelus incanus: Five at James Campbell NWR and a very confiding bird at

Waiakea Pond, Hilo were the only sightings of this wintering shorebird and passage migrant.

Bristle-thighed Curlew Numenius tahitiensis: We enjoyed stunning views of one of at least 23 of these incredibly enigmatic curlews on Oahu. Feeding amongst plantains in the rough of a golf course fairway and in the dune slacks at James Campbell NWR they allowed close approach. This rare curlew’s breeding range is restricted to western Alaska and the entire population scatters over the Pacific to spend the winter on a multitude of islands. It can now be seen throughout the year on Oahu, where non-breeders over-summer. Considered VULNERABLE by BirdLife International, owing to its small and apparently declining population of c.7000 birds, largely as a result of predation on the wintering grounds, where perhaps more than 50% of adults are flightless during autumn moult. Many oceanic islands now have introduced predators (for example mongooses in the Hawaiian Islands).

Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres: A flock of 10 birds was seen at James Campbell NWR on Oahu, with a further three or four at Hilo on the Big Island and another 10 at Kilauea Lighthouse on Kauai.

Sanderling Calidris alba: Around 15 were on a shallow lagoon at James Campbell NWR on Oahu. Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea: A single bird, just starting to show a few red feathers of

breeding plumage at James Campbell NWR was a genuine Hawaiian rarity and a state lifer for David.

STERCORARIIDAE Pomarine Jaeger (P Skua) Stercorarius pomarinus: An adult flew north off Lihue on our first sea watch

from there. Long-tailed Jaeger (L-t Skua) Stercorarius longicaudus: Two adults that flew north on our second sea

watch from Lihue represented a new species for Birdquest in Hawaii. LARIIDAE Laughing Gull Larus atricilla: Two at James Campbell NWR, one an adult and another second

calendar year. Another two were seen at Port Ellen on Kauai. STERNIDAE Spectacled Tern Sterna lunata: Six of this Pacific speciality were seen from our Kauai pelagic trip.


Sooty Tern Sterna fuscata: Distant views of over 200 birds on Manana, an islet of Oahu with smaller numbers offshore along the coast, however we obtained much better views of around 10 on our Kauai pelagic.

Brown Noddy Anous stolidus: A total of 20 birds was observed along the east shore of Oahu. Black Noddy Anous minutus: One of the stars of the tour, the first of these graceful terns was a brief

sighting at Halona Blowhole on Oahu, followed by another 10 in the rain at Laupahoehoe Point on the Big Island. However, we enjoyed some superb views of around 20 birds at Holei Sea Arch in Volcanoes National Park on Oahu, where they appeared to be breeding. As a grand finale, around 60 were seen from our Kauai pelagic. One of seven forms worldwide, the local endemic subspecies melanogenys has bright orange legs and feet. It is unbelievable to think we missed this species last time!

Common Fairy Tern (White T) Gygis alba: After several in flight from our vehicles as we traversed the Waikiki commuter traffic we eventually enjoyed excellent views of this delicate little seabird at Kapiolani Park in Honolulu, brooding their chicks, balanced precariously on the swaying boughs of large trees. David tells us that this population was boosted by an introduction of a small number of birds some time ago. An Oahu survey in 2002 located almost 500 adult birds and at least 100 ‘nests’ with chicks. They can even be seen flying amongst Waikiki’s sky scraping apartment blocks and from the main street there past McDonalds!

COLUMBIDAE Rock Dove (Feral Pigeon) Columba livia: This largely urban species was seen on Oahu, the Big

Island and Kauai. The population in Honolulu is odd, as most birds are white with a red bill and legs. Domestic pigeons were first brought into Hawaii in 1796. Nowadays these pigeons are mostly associated with man, though some feral populations exist along cliffs and rocky areas.

Spotted Dove Streptopelia chinensis: A common bird on all four visited islands, mostly below 1200m, and on Kauai even found in small numbers in the Alakai Wilderness Area. It was introduced from Asia in the mid-1800s. Among the negative effects of the Spotted Dove on Hawaii’s native flora is its likely responsibility in the spread of the invasive Lantana camara, an aggressive hybrid created in England. Sadly this species has also been introduced into Fiji, which is home to several endemic doves and pigeons.

Zebra Dove Geopelia striata: Another introduced dove, especially prominent in open areas, and seen on all four visited islands. This one was first brought into Oahu from Asia in 1922, and is now abundant in all the main islands, probably ranking as the second most common bird in Hawaii.

PSITTACIDAE Rose-ringed Parakeet (Ring-necked P) Psittacula krameri: Ten in Honolulu were the only ones seen.

Introduced psittacids pose a serious threat to native ecosystems since they are notorious dispersers of invasive weeds. Alas serious action against them is often made difficult by the local animal rights lobby, as is the case with the Mitred Parakeets Aratinga mitrata on Maui.

STRIGIDAE Short-eared Owl Asio flammeus: Three in the vicinity of Pu’u La’au on the Big Island were followed

by one at Waimea Canyon on Kauai and another over the road on the way back to Lihue. As in the Galapagos (at least on those islands that don’t have any hawks) this owl has become a diurnal feeder in Hawaii. It is currently the only native owl in the islands, and has been assigned to the endemic subspecies sandvicensis, though it is morphologically scarcely distinct. This owl is lacking in Hawaiian fossil deposits and may only have been able to establish in the islands after Polynesian-induced ecological change. Note that the archipelago used to harbour the endemic genus of stilt-owls Grallistrix, which probably


died out in the big wave of extinctions following the arrival of the first people in the islands. Stilt-owls were diurnal bird-catchers.

ALAUDIDAE Eurasian Skylark Alauda arvensis: This bird, familiar to Europeans, was found to be numerous at

higher elevations of the Big Island, especially on the slopes of Mauna Kea. It was first brought to the islands from England in 1865, and again from New Zealand in 1870. This species seems to be faring a lot better in Hawaii than in much of its native range!

PYCNONOTIDAE Red-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus cafer: Ubiquitous on Oahu. This and the next species were

introduced here in the 1950s, and since then has rapidly spread through the island where it is now one of the most conspicuous birds. While earlier in the 20th century a number of songbirds were introduced deliberately to fill the void left by the disappearance of native birds at lower elevations, the bulbul populations must have spread from escaped and/or intentionally released cage birds at a time when the introduction of songbirds had already been outlawed. Not only does the Red-vented Bulbul have an impact on the native fauna and flora (e.g. by eating seeds of alien plants and spreading them through its droppings), but it has also become an agricultural pest. In addition to being a nuisance to growers of guavas, papayas and other fruits, it also eats orchid and other flower buds, and in 1989 alone the total cost of bulbul damage to orchids on Oahu was estimated to be US$300,000. Luckily bulbuls aren’t great dispersers over salt water, and, unlike other introduced birds such as the White-rumped Shama and the Japanese White-eye, they have so far been unable to colonize any other islands in the archipelago.

Red-whiskered Bulbul Pycnonotus jocosus: A handful of these introduced birds were seen on Oahu. This species is not as widespread as the previous one, though it is still slowly spreading. It first appeared in the wild on Oahu in 1965.

MONARCHIDAE Hawaii Elepaio Chasiempis sandwichensis: Most authorities still lump all elepaios into a single,

variable species. Since they represent rather distinctive forms and are currently the subject of taxonomic study with a view to splitting them, they are definitely worth considering separately. The only representatives of the monarch flycatchers on Hawaii, all elepaios evidently descended from a single common ancestor, which colonized the islands. On the Big Island three subspecies are found, of which we saw all: ‘Volcano’ Elepaio (ridgwayi) at Hakalau Forest and along the Pu’u O’o trail; ‘Mauna Kea’ Elepaio (bryani) in the drier Mamane forests where we saw the Palila at Pu’u La’au and the nominate ‘Kona’ Elepaio at Manuka Forest Reserve south of Kona). About ten years ago the population was estimated to be over 200,000 birds. The total lack of any elepaios on the Maui Nui islands is puzzling, although it may be that the enigmatic and now extinct drepanid genus of Maui Shovelbills (Vangulifer) pre-empted the same general ‘flycatcher’ niche there before the arrival of the colonizing elepaio ancestor. As a whole Elepaios are considered VULNERABLE by BirdLife International. Their overall population is estimated at 240,000 birds and is thought to be decreasing. Threats include: heavy browsing of habitat by feral ungulates and introduced grasses, which suppress regeneration and increase the risk of fire (bryani); malaria and avian pox, which has been recorded in 87% and 36% of birds on Oahu respectively and nest predation by rats (gayi) and hurricane damage to habitat (sclateri).

Oahu Elepaio Chasiempis gayi: We eventually enjoyed some great views of three birds of this sometimes-tricky species in a forested valley near Honolulu. This is an endangered species (or subspecies), with a small and declining population. About ten years ago a total population of only about 200 birds was estimated. This form (at least) is very clearly critically endangered.


Kauai Elepaio Chasiempis sclateri: Some very good views in the Alakai Wilderness Area on Kauai. Though the population was still estimated to be over 20,000 ten years ago, the Kauai Elepaio may be declining.

SYLVIIDAE Japanese Bush-Warbler Cettia diphone (H): Heard only in the Waikamoi Preserve on Maui and in the

Alakai Wilderness and we did not attempt to lure it out. This species was introduced into Oahu from Japan (presumably the race cantans) in 1929, and has from there spread to Molokai, Lanai, Maui, Kauai, and, most recently (according to David) somewhere on the Big Island. It was first noted on the other islands in 1979 and 1980 and it has since rapidly spread here. E.g. Waikamoi lies quite high on the slopes of Haleakalá, and we even heard Bush-Warblers on the periphery of the Alakai Wilderness Area, where they must at least partially compete with the native insectivores. In addition introduced insectivores are likely to have a negative effect on native insects that are essential as pollinators for native plants.

TURDIDAE White-rumped Shama Copsychus malabaricus: A very smart introduced bird of Asian origin, which

showed well on both Oahu and Kauai, the two islands to which it was recently confined. On Kauai we even heard several birds in the Alakai Wilderness Area, where sadly the introduced forest birds seem to be penetrating more and more (increasing the host reservoir for diseases such as avian malaria). Shamas were intentionally released in Kauai in 1931, and on Oahu in 1940, and nowadays they are widespread on both islands. In recent years this species also seems to have started colonizing Molokai (from which native songbirds are now mostly gone) and Maui, where the possibility of yet another alien bird spreading into the higher elevation forests could mean trouble for the extant endemics there. The species is named after the Malabar coastal area, the first part of India known to Europeans.

Omao (Hawaiian Thrush) Myadestes obscurus: A common sound in the higher-elevation forests on the Big Island, and we obtained good looks at several birds in both the Hakalau Forest NWR and along the Pu’u O’o trail. The Omao is the only extant thrush in the Hawaiian archipelago that still seems to have a sizeable population, (estimated at 170,000 birds). Considered VULNERABLE by BirdLife International owing to its small occupied range, although its population trend is presently unknown.

Puaiohi (Small Kauai Thrush) Myadestes palmeri: We had another magical encounter with this critically endangered species deep in the Alakai Wilderness Area. The Puaiohi was considered a rare bird as early as the beginning of the 20th century. The population was estimated at c20 individuals in 1976-1983, though recent estimates range between 100 and 200 individuals. A captive breeding programme and release of young birds into the Alakai Wilderness Area was initiated, but it remains to be seen what the population trend will be in the next decade. Prospects for long-term survival are bleak, considering the fate of the now extinct Kamao (or Large Kauai Thrush) M. myadestinus (last seen in 1981), Olomao M. lanaiensis (Maui, Lanai and Molokai) last seen on the latter in 1988), and Amaui M. woahensis (last seen on Oahu in the 19th century). Considered CRITCIALLY ENDANGERED by BirdLife International with a very small (albeit increasing owing to the release of captive-bred birds) population estimated at 200-500 and an extremely small range. Threats include: the destruction of forest under-storey by feral pigs; avian pox and malaria; predation by introduced mammals and habitat alteration by alien plants.

TIMALIIDAE Melodious Laughing-thrush (Hwamei) Garrulax canorus: A beautiful songster, commonly heard on

Kauai, where we saw a few birds. It is amazing how dominant the song of this species was in at least parts of the Alakai area, where it obviously must have an impact on the


native avifauna. The story goes that this, mainly Chinese species, was introduced when during the big Honolulu fire in the early 20th century many folks released their cage birds. Nowadays Hwameis are found on the five larger islands though it seems to be most common on Kauai (perhaps due to the absence of the leiothrix which disappeared from the island?). ‘Hwamei’ means ‘beautiful eyebrow’.

Red-billed Leiothrix (R-b Mesia) Leiothrix lutea: This gorgeous skulker was commonly heard in forested areas on Oahu, the Big Island and Maui, and small numbers showed well. Introduced from Asia in the early 20th century this species is now pretty common on most large islands. However, in spite of a rapid spread through Kauai and having become fairly common by the 1930s, the population on this island subsequently declined equally rapidly, and no leiothrixes have been seen on Kauai since 1974. The reason for this fortunate disappearance is unknown. Also on Oahu this species has shown some notable population fluctuations. It was a common sight here in the 1950s, but beginning in 1958 its numbers fell dramatically until almost none were spotted for the next two decades. However the population unfortunately rebounded in the mid-1980s and now this species is fairly common once more.

MIMIDAE Northern Mockingbird Mimus polyglottos: One on Oahu for Bill only then another couple on Kauai

en route to sea watching. This species was first introduced into Hawaii in 1928, and can now be found on all major islands in drier habitats. Compared to mainland North America the song repertoire in the archipelago is limited, perhaps since they have fewer species to mimic. A scary fact is that vagrants have turned up on several of the north-western Hawaiian islands, e.g. on Nihoa, home to the endemic Millerbird Acrocephalus familiaris and Nihoa Finch Telespiza ultima. The eventual establishment of introduced birds on the latter could bring about deleterious effects on the native birds.

STURNIDAE Common Myna Acridotheres tristis: Ubiquitous! Introduced in 1865 to prey upon armyworms

(caterpillars of the lepidopteron family Noctuidae) that were seriously damaging pasturelands, and now ubiquitous on all the large islands. Common Mynas recently colonized Midway Atoll, but plans for their eradication there are fortunately on the table.

ZOSTEROPIDAE Japanese White-eye Zosterops japonicus: Abundant on all major islands, and nowadays considered

to be the most numerous bird in the archipelago. First introduced into Oahu in 1929 and into the Big Island in 1937, it has quickly spread from there to the other major islands. As its principal food is nectar (in addition to arthropods and fleshy fruits), the Japanese White-eye is thought to compete more with native birds than other introduced birds do. In a study a couple of decades ago negative correlations were found between the presence of endemic Iiwi, Apapane and Elepaio and the presence of the white-eye. On the other hand a Harvard biologist found in 1983 that the native Hawaiian vine (Freycinetia arborea), once pollinated by several now-extinct bird species (all five endemic Hawaiian honey-eater species are now gone!), is now pollinated primarily by the numerous Japanese white-eyes. In turn, the exotic Passiflora mollissima vine (originally from the Andes), which forms a serious threat to native vegetation as it can choke out species such as Koa (Acacia Koa) saplings, and which in addition increases the risk of hurricane damage to the trees because of the vine’s weight, is now being pollinated by native honeycreepers (and it seems to benefit the Kauai Amakihi). The natural history of Hawaii, though changing, remains enthralling, and many ecosystems are currently in a state of chaos as opposed to stability. Note also that, while remote Hawaii was perhaps never colonized naturally by any white-eyes, the success of the


Japanese White-eye in the archipelago is not surprising in the light of the fact that many Pacific islands are inhabited by at least one species of white-eye.

EMBERIZIDAE Northern Cardinal Cardinalis cardinalis: Regularly seen or heard on all visited islands. This pretty

species was introduced to Hawaii in 1929, the same year as the white-eye. Red-crested Cardinal Paroaria coronata: We saw fair numbers of this South American species on

Oahu, Maui and Kauai. Another 1929 introduction, which can be found on all the main islands except for the Big Island.

Yellow-billed Cardinal Paroaria capitata: Six were seen on the Big Island, the island on which it is to be found. It is a native of South with a range extending from Brazil to Paraguay, Bolivia and northern Argentina.

Saffron Finch Sicalis flaveola: Several sightings around Hilo on the Big Island. Yet another species introduced (1960s) from South America, no longer doing well on Oahu, but spreading on the Big Island.

Western Meadowlark Sturnella neglecta: A few were seen in the Kauai lowlands, the only island this introduced bird (1931), is found on.

CARDUELIDAE House Finch Carpodacus mexicanus: This introduced species was seen on all the islands, and was

found to be particularly numerous on the Big Island and Kauai. Introduced from California at some time before 1870, this species is now well established on all the main islands. Though food competition with the endemic birds may be limited, House Finches do serve as a disease reservoir. Note that for some reason the Hawaiian population has a much higher percentage of orange- and yellow-tinged males (as opposed to red-tinged ones) than mainland populations have.

Yellow-fronted Canary Serinus mozambicus: Noted at Kapiolani Park, Waikiki on Oahu and at Hakalau NWR. It is a common native bird of sub-Saharan Africa.

DREPANIDIDAE Palila Loxioides bailleui: We enjoyed a fantastic encounter with a pair of these impressive finch-like

honeycreepers in the Mamane (Sophora chrysophylla) forests in the Pu’u La’au area on the slopes of Mauna Kea. Largely feeding on the Mamane seedpods and confined to one major stronghold, over the last century the Palila’s range has gradually contracted to the upper slopes of Mauna Kea. Considered CRITICALLY ENDANGERED by BirdLife International with a rapidly decreasing population estimated at 2,512(!) birds. This species has suffered extremely rapid declines since 2005, which projected to continue at a rate equivalent to 97% over three generations (14 years). Threats include the degradation of habitat by introduced ungulates, predation by introduced cats; competition for caterpillar food from introduced parasitic wasps and a recent drought may have reduced Mamane pod production. A large scale programme was started to save the Palila, consisting of studying the species, removing introduced mammals (after a successful lawsuit against the authorities by the Sierra Club), habitat restoration, controlling predator populations, implementing a captive breeding programme and translocation trials. Hopefully these considerable efforts will save this species, which would be a great turnaround in the sad fortunes of the drepanids, as currently only 17 out of 51 known species survive (the latter number includes those that probably became extinct after the arrival of the first Polynesians). First spotted sitting quietly in a mamane tree by Pete it achieved third place in the ‘bird of the trip’ poll but BE WARNED, TIME IS RAPIDLY RUNNING OUT FOR THE PALILA!

Maui Parrotbill Pseudonestor xanthophrys (NL): Carlos and Angie had glimpses of this mega from the Rose Gardner boardwalk in the Waikamoi Preserve, but unfortunately it quickly disappeared and was not seen again. Considered CRITICALLY ENDANGERED by BirdLife


International owing to habitat degradation by introduced ungulates within its extremely small range. Although most of its range is now fenced so it may be adequately protected from this threat it remains at risk from chance environmental events, such as hurricanes.

Hawaii Amakihi Hemignathus virens: Many great views, both on the Big Island (nominate race) and on Maui (wilsoni). It is one of the most numerous Hawaiian honeycreepers, with a seemingly stable population of over 800,000 birds. Both this and the Apapane seem to be holding on in Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, whereas the Iiwi has disappeared from the area, indicating the possibility of these species having developed at least some resistance to the avian malaria. The race wilsoni is now extirpated from low-lying Lanai and it is now rare on Molokai. This is one of only two members of its family to be classified as being of LEAST CONCERN by BirdLife International!

Oahu Amakihi Hemignathus chloris: About 10 were seen in the hills above Honolulu in the so called Watershed Forest Reserve, their presence often advertised by their trilling song. More than any other species this one shows clear signs of resistance development against the avian malaria, as it appears to be re-colonizing lower elevation areas from which it had disappeared originally. Considered VULNERABLE by BirdLife International with a stable population estimated at 20,000 - 60,000 birds.

Kauai Amakihi Hemignathus kauaiensis: We had some good views in the Alakai Wilderness Area. The population of this one seems to be stable as well (or even increasing), with over 15,000 birds estimated to inhabit the island, and there even seems to be a trend for this species to re-colonize some areas a little lower down, like around David Kuhn’s house, probably indicating the development of resistance against avian malaria. The reason why such resistance may be developing more in amakihi than in other honeycreepers is the presence of large populations (and thus a bigger genetic variation) combined with short generation cycles. Yet, owing to their ‘single-island populations’, BirdLife International considers both this and the next species VULNERABLE.

Anianiau (Lesser Amakihi) Hemignathus parvus: A bright little Kauai endemic seen on our hike in the Alakai Wilderness Area. This species seems to be holding its own, and the population has been estimated to be between 15,000 and 25,000 individuals. There has been no indication yet of the development of any resistance against avian malaria in this species, placing it at serious risk as Culex mosquitoes are apparently becoming more common in the Alakai Wilderness Area.

Akiapolaau Hemignathus munroi: A single (and no longer dependent?) juvenile was seen in a remote kipuka along the Pu’u O’o trail. A truly unique bird as nothing else on the planet has a bill like this! It prefers Koa forests and is now the only bird in the archipelago to exploit the woodpecker niche. However, it seems to be rare in spite of the lack of woodpecker-like competitors. This species is tragically vulnerable on all fronts. It has a small population (estimated at 1200 birds), occupies comparatively large home ranges, and has a low reproductive rate and a long dependency rate. Considered ENDANGERED by BirdLife International, owing to its very small and severely fragmented range (only 150km sq) in which it is continuing to decline. It is thought that the extirpation of its small subpopulations will continue. SEE IT WHILE YOU STILL CAN!

Akikiki (Kauai Creeper) Oreomystis bairdi: One of these CRITICALLY ENDANGERED birds was seen on our hike in the Alakai Wilderness. Sadly there is little hope of a long-term future for this enigmatic, nuthatch-like little bird, with its small and contracting range (only 90km sq!). Its population is estimated at 780-1840 birds and it seems to be suffering a continuous decline (by c.64% 1979-2000 in the Alakai Swamp). Even more worrying, is that nowadays it is found only in the eastern Alakai showing much the same pattern in its contracting range to other native birds before they became extinct (like Kamao and Kauai O’o).

Hawaii Creeper Oreomystis mana: We enjoyed some excellent views in both the 'big kipuka' and Hakalau NWR of this tiny bark-picking honeycreeper. Considered ENDANGERED by BirdLife International, it is another nuthatch-like bird with a small, contracting and


severely fragmented range, and seems to be suffering a continuous decline. Its decreasing population is estimated at 2500-10,000 birds, although with such a woolly estimate as this can we really be certain about its overall population trend? The Hakalau National Forest Wildlife Refuge was established to protect this and several other threatened honeycreepers.

Maui Creeper (M Alauahio) Paroreomyza montana: Plentiful in Waikamoi Preserve. The most numerous Maui endemic but still considered ENDANGERED by BirdLife International, with a decreasing population estimated to be 10,000-19,999 birds. Efforts to fence off forest areas from the destructive feral pigs are hoped to increase the amount of Ohia forest (the creeper loves those red flowers for their copious nectar) and to have positive effects on both this warbler-like species as well as the Akohekohe. Sadly the Oahu Creeper or Oahu Alauahio P. maculata has not been seen since 1985 and is now presumed to be extinct.

Akepa Loxops coccineus: Great looks at four birds in the Hakalau Forest NWR. The tangerine male is a particularly smart honeycreeper. The nominate race is endemic to the Big Island and occurs in three populations totalling about 14,000 birds. It has recently disappeared from two areas, and while core populations seem stable, the peripheral are apparently declining, hence its classification in the ENDANGERED category by BirdLife International. As it is the only ‘drep’ using holes for breeding it can be helped and recently artificial nest cavities as well as nest boxes were introduced. In 1999 and 2000 about 10% of these were used successfully, which is encouraging. Sadly the Maui subspecies ochracea is now thought to be extinct, and the Oahu race rufa was rare even in the 1800s, with the last possible sighting in 1976. Note that this and the next species have a finch-like bill of which upper and lower mandibles are slightly crossed at the tip to aid in prying open places where insects can hide.

Akekee (Kauai Akepa) Loxops caeruleirostris: We enjoyed some good views of a single calling male on our Alakai wilderness hike. A relative of the previous species (with which it used to be lumped!), this one has an even smaller population, estimated at 2,500-4,566(!) birds and a smaller range (160km sq). It is also considered ENDANGERED by BirdLife International, with threats including: the ever-encroaching avian malaria (on Kauai made worse by the lack of much suitable habitat at elevations higher than the Alakai), predation by introduced mammals (particularly rats) and alien wasps and ants, which greatly seem to reduce populations of native arthropods. Unlike the Akepa it does not use cavities and holes for breeding but builds a nest.

Iiwi Vestiaria coccinea: Probably the prettiest extant honeycreeper, this one still seemed abundant at Hakalau National Forest Wildlife Refuge on the Big Island. Good numbers were also found along the Pu’u O’o trail on the same island and in the Waikamoi Preserve on Maui. In the Alakai though we only saw a couple of birds. Now extinct on Lanai and with only relict populations on Oahu and Molokai this species is now largely confined to the Big Island, Maui and Kauai. Recent population estimates were c385,000 birds in the 1976-1983 period and over 350,000 individuals in the early 1990s, following recent declines in several populations (e.g. it seems to have disappeared from the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park). This species is highly susceptible to avian malaria and lower elevation populations may be sustained primarily by dispersal from higher elevation populations. Their future survival on Kauai seems far from certain and it has now been uplisted to VULNERABLE by BirdLife International.

Akohekohe (Crested Honeycreeper) Palmeria dolei: A spectacular show for everyone from the Rose Gardner boardwalk in Waikamoi Preserve on Maui of this one, the largest extant honeycreeper. Considered CRITICALLY ENDANGERED by BirdLife International for the same reasons as Maui Parrotbill. One of the few honeycreepers to be given an English name on account of the Hawaiian one’s likening of the bird’s crest to pubic hair, which offended Victorian sensibilities. First spotted by Carlos, our sharp-eyed boy from Brazil, it was voted no. #1 bird of the trip by Angie, Bill, Mike Pete and Richard.


Apapane Himatione sanguinea: The most numerous Hawaiian honeycreeper. We encountered this smart aficionado of Ohia flowers in large numbers on all islands except for Oahu (where we didn’t visit the highlands). The current population size is unknown but some degree of resistance against avian malaria is suspected. Interestingly the Apapane never diverged into different races on the various main islands, and the only different-looking race was the now-extinct one on far-away Laysan (freethi). The other honeycreeper to be considered of LEAST CONCERN and is not thought to be approaching the threshold for vulnerable status (<10,000 mature individuals with a continuing decline estimated to be >10% in ten years or three generations).

PASSERIDAE House Sparrow Passer domesticus: Numerous on all visited islands, especially near human

habitation. This human commensal was introduced from New Zealand (where in turn it had been brought in from England) in 1871.

ESTRILDIDAE Common Waxbill Estrilda astrild: About 30 were seen on Oahu. One of the more recent

introductions (date of introduction unknown), this African species was first identified in the field in the late seventies, and has since then spread rapidly throughout the island, now being abundant. Recently there have been reports from Kauai, Maui, Molokai and the Big Island, indicating that Common Waxbills are starting to spread to other islands, though it is not known whether they have become established there yet.

Nutmeg Mannikin (Scaly-breasted Munia) Lonchura punctulata: A rather dull-looking species regularly seen on the Big Island and Kauai, where Richard reported spectacular numbers on his meanderings through a residential area near Lihue. This Asian native was the first estrildid to be introduced into Hawaii (1865) and is now common on all of the main islands, where it is found from sea level to alpine scrub. It is also the only member of the family to penetrate native forest, as we noticed on the periphery of the Alakai Wilderness Area.

Chestnut Mannikin (C Munia, Black-headed M) Lonchura malacca: Ten on Oahu and around 100 on Kauai. This introduced species (from Southeast Asia) was first seen on Oahu in 1941, on Kauai in 1975, on the Big Island in 1976 (where still quite local), and has recently (natural spread or releases?) been reported from Maui and Lanai for the first time.

Java Sparrow Padda oryzivora: A few on Oahu and one on the Big Island – a poor showing by recent standards. A first, intentional introduction in the 19th century failed, but this species seems to have boomed subsequent to having been released again (illegally) in the late sixties. An endemic of the islands of Java and Bali (and possibly Madura) in Indonesia, this species has been given vulnerable status by BirdLife International, following a disastrous crash in numbers on its native grounds (an estimate of 2,500-10,000 remaining birds is given). Though widely introduced elsewhere, also several feral populations (in Indonesia at least) have declined as well, and the gregarious roosting behaviour makes it easy to trap them for the cage bird trade. So nowadays Hawaiian birds (which seem to benefit from numerous bird feeders) may make up a considerable portion of the total world population, and they may well already exceed Indonesian birds in numbers! The Honolulu area Christmas Bird Count alone turned up between about 1,121 and 2,515 Java Sparrows in the 1999-2002 period! Java Sparrows appear to be among those birds that are especially susceptible to the West Nile Virus, which some fear may soon reach the Hawaiian Islands.


MAMMALS Polynesian Rat Rattus exulans: A couple of rats on Kauai were surely of this species. Lesser Indian Mongoose Herpestes auropunctatus: This voracious introduced predator was only

encountered on the Big Island. Luckily a recent report from Kauai, until now the only mongoose-free larger island, has not been confirmed, and serious trapping efforts haven’t come up with anything. Introduced from Jamaica, to where it had been previously introduced, in 1883 to control rats in sugarcane plantations, this small carnivore has spread throughout many habitats and has caused havoc among ground-nesting birds.

Hawaiian Monk Seal Monachus schauinslandi: Two hauled out on the shore of Manana Island, where we saw the large Sooty Tern colony.

Humpback Whale Megaptera novaeangliae: A few, mainly distant blows on Oahu followed by some better views from Kilauea Lighthouse on Kauai and then a grand finale performance of a breaching individual on our last morning there. Its scientific name means ‘big-winged New Englander’.

Indo-Pacific Bottle-nosed Dolphin Tursiops aduncus: Four passed close inshore from Holei Sea Arch on the Big Island.

Rough-toothed Dolphin Steno bredanensis: A pod of six riding the bow of our vessel for a while from our Kauai pelagic was a nice bonus.

Mouflon Ovis orientalis: Six at Pu’u La’au on the Big Island. Domestic Goat Capra hircus: This most unwelcome introduction was noted on the Big Island. TURTLES Green Turtle Chelonia mydas: Singles noted from Halona Blow Hole on Oahu and Kilauea

Lighthouse on Kauai. Leatherback Turtle Dermochelys coriacea: A large individual was seen from our Kauai pelagic. HAWAIIAN ENDEMIC BUTTERFLIES Hawaiian Blue Udara blackburni: One at Pu’u La’au but it was abundant at Hakalau NWR, where

we estimated at least 300. Kamehameha Butterfly Vanessa tameamea: Singles in the ‘big kipuka’ on the Pu’u O’o trail (for Mike

only) and then everyone at Manuka State Park. HAWAIIAN ENDEMIC DRAGONFLIES Giant Hawaiian Darner Anax strenuus: One near the ‘big kipuka’ on the Pu’u O’o trail was followed

by a wonderful series of sightings in the Alakai on Kauai of around eight individuals patrolling up and down the mountain streams there.

BIRD OF THE TRIP (AS VOTED FOR BY THE GROUP): 1st Akohekohe 2nd Iiwi 3rd Palila 4th Akiapolaau 5th Bristle-thighed Curlew 6th Hawaiian Hawk 7th Puaiohi 8th Hawaiian Petrel 9th Newell’s Shearwater 10th Laysan Albatross

Highlights of Hawaii 2010, including once again some more breathtaking views of the enigmatic Bristle-thighed Curlew (all photos by Mike Watson unless stated).



Clockwise from top left: the distinctive Hawaiian Stilt; Pacific Golden Plovers in smart breeding dress are preparing to leave their Hawaiian wintering grounds in late April; Wandering Tattler is another fairly common wintering shorebird; Common Fairy Terns brood their chicks, whilst perching precariously in downtown Waikiki and bottom left: Black-crowned Night Heron is one of the very few natural colonists in Hawaii.


Wonders of the Big Island (clockwise from top left): an ancient Mamane tree; the gorgeous and critically endangered Palila; Hawaii Amakihi (Richard Clifford); ‘Mauna Kea’ Elepaio (Mike Watson); Apapane and adult and juvenile Hawaii Amakihis (both Richard Clifford).


Clockwise from top: the erupting Halema’uma’u crater of Kilauea, one of the world’s most active volcanos is still pumping vast quantities of steam into the atmosphere; a dark morph Hawaiian Hawk (now the only surviving endemic raptor on the islands) drifts over the native forest at Hakalau NWR in search of an easy meal; the endangered Hawaii Creeper also clings on here; the endemic orange-legged form of the smart Black Noddy breeds along the spectacular volcanic coastline of the Big Island and middle left: Holei Sea Arch.

Maui (clockwise from top left): the endemic Silversword; Angie enjoys a quiet moment on the summit of Haleakala (‘House of the Sun’); the critically endangered Akohekohe, probably Ha-waii’s most wanted honeycreeper; the (merely) endangered Maui Creeper; the gaudy and noisy I’iwi (Richard Clifford); Hawaiian Goose, in its ancestral home on Haleakala and middle left: eve-ning shadows fall over the vast caldera of Haleakala.


Clockwise from top left: Waimea Canyon on Kauai, is sometimes refrered to as the ‘Grand Canyon of the Pacific’ and is an awesome sight; Hawaiian Goose (or Nene); Wedge-tailed Shearwaters sit quietly at the entrances of their burrows at Kilauea Lighthouse (where some local visitors thought they must be the offspring of the Nenes!); Hawaiian Coot another endan-gered waterbird continues to thrive at Hanalei Taro Fields NWR and bottom left: the critically endangered Puaiohi, a wonderful songster, is a denizen of Kauai’s remote Alakai Wilderness.


The fantastic seabirds of Kauai (clockwise from top left): Great Frigatebirds patrol the coastline; White-tailed Trop-icbird; Red-footed Booby; Hawaiian Petrel; Wedge-tailed Shearwater; Laysan Albatross; the endangered Newell’s Shearwater and the super elegant Red-tailed Tropicbird.


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HAWAII REP 2010 - Birdquest