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“An Exploratory Study on Beverage Trends and Wine in a Global Perspective – Emerging Trends and Future Outlook” Haute cuisine
Citation preview
Haute cuisine 2010
Contents
Contents.....................................................................................................................................1
Declaration................................................................................................................................3
Acknowledgements...................................................................................................................4
Introduction..............................................................................................................................5
What is Haute Cuisine? ..........................................................................................................6
The Italian Connection............................................................................................................6
Catherine de Medici’s dual effect: Haute cuisine and Bourgeoisie cuisine........................7
La Varenne: The beginning of a new style of cooking..........................................................7
The Transition from Spices to Herbs.....................................................................................7
The Catholic Influence on Food and Wine............................................................................7
The Invention of the Restaurant.............................................................................................8
The Printing Press: The wide spread of Cookbooks.............................................................8
Antonin Careme: The King of Chefs and the Chef of Kings...............................................8
The Third Power: The Critics.................................................................................................9
Necessity of Food and Wine Pairing.....................................................................................10
Wines served at ‘The Dinner of the Three Emperors’........................................................10
Madère retour de l'Inde 1810...................................................................................................13
Xérès 1821...............................................................................................................................13
Châteaux d'Yquem 1847..........................................................................................................13
Chambertin 1846......................................................................................................................13
Châteaux Margaux 1847..........................................................................................................14
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Haute cuisine 2010
Château Latour 1847................................................................................................................14
Châteaux Lafite 1848...............................................................................................................14
Champagne Roederer frappe....................................................................................................14
Auguste Escoffier: The Modernization of Haute Cuisine...................................................16
The French Revolution effect................................................................................................16
The Parisian lifestyle..............................................................................................................16
Rise of the Automobiles: The growth of Food and Wine....................................................17
The power of ‘Gastronomic Literature’...............................................................................17
The Michelin Guide................................................................................................................17
Adaptation to Modernization................................................................................................18
Haute Cuisine Influence: Restaurants in New York...........................................................19
Conclusion...............................................................................................................................20
Menu........................................................................................................................................21
Bibliography...........................................................................................................................22
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Haute cuisine 2010
DECLARATION
I declare that this project is the result of my own individual effort and that conforms to the
university, departmental and course regulations regarding cheating and plagiarism. No
material contained within this Project has been used in any other submission, by the author,
for an academic reward.
Aaron Coutinho [C-1201]
15.03.10
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Haute cuisine 2010
Acknowledgements
As my adviser Mrs. Abba Joshi encouraged and supported me at every stage in my
assignment. At a very crucial juncture she read the manuscript and provided valuable insights
and suggestions. I benefited enormously from her advice, ideas, and encouragement.
I would like to thank Chef Gerard D’souza for his stylistic advice which was a gift during the
initial revision process. His comments did much to help clarify my ideas. His unerring eye for
detail and his insistence on clear language made this a much better assignment.
The highlight of this research was the time spent at the library. I would like to give special
thanks to the entire library staff Rupa Fernandez, Bhagwati Bhainsora, Gajanan Mankare and
Shaikh Ejaz, headed by Chef Gerard D’souza for making it such a pleasant experience. Rupa
Fernandez and Bhagwati Bhainsora, the librarians, were an amazing resource and guide.
They recommended me various books, for which I am extremely grateful.
I would also like to thank my roommates Deepu Jacob and Sidhart Sehgal for being so patient
with their technical help.
I would like to thank Nikita John and Michelle Vaz for their support.
It is not enough to merely acknowledge my colleagues, friends and family but for now a
thank you must suffice.
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Haute cuisine 2010
Introduction
A renowned gastronome Anthelme Brillat-Savarin once said, “Tell me what you eat and I’ll
tell you what you are.” The author can’t agree with him more on this statement. Every
locality has a culture of its own which calls for a diverse cuisine. Thus one is indeed, what
one eats! Culture and cuisine are so tightly woven into the fabric of society that society
cannot be imagined without them. The author through the following study has tried to
understand Haute cuisine by studying its culture in depth, as history demonstrates changes in
the way people cook, eat and enjoy food. To understand the reason why a particular cuisine
persists over time we must turn to the past and perform a genealogy of the present. French
cuisine is highly regarded and it has an international image of authority and esteem. And with
good food comes good wine too. The cuisine has not only been highly influential in affecting
all western cuisine, but has also affected food around the world in one way or another, with
its various sophisticated and refined techniques. France has often been described as the birth
place of gastronomy, but how did it take on this glory? Most definitely, France is a country of
moderate climates and amazing varieties of produce can be found in its many of regions, but
the high-quality abundance of fresh produce alone does not explain why France became one
of the world’s greatest gastronomies. Gastronomy needs its professionals, as well as its
enthusiastic beginners and customers who encourage the professionals to greater elegance
and refinement.
This crucial culinary journey begins with ancient French regime and it has changed the way
food is approached and prepared all over the world. How did haute cuisine evolve from ‘the
meals for kings,’ to being readily available in every nook and corner throughout France? The
evolution of haute cuisine and as a result the wide-spread of the consumption of wine has
been elaborated upon to better understand food and wine today. High end and extravagant
cooking goes hand in hand with quality wine. Anthropologist Sidney Mintz asserts that not
every society has an haute cuisine, but a society must have a cuisine to have an haute cuisine.
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What is Haute Cuisine?
The French translation of haute cuisine means “high cooking.” It is the elaborate preparation
and presentation of French cuisine in small and numerous courses. These rich courses are
often served along with wines at luxurious restaurants and hotels all around Europe. Haute
cuisine is also known as ‘Grande cuisine.’
The Italian Connection
Catherine de Medici’s arrival at the French court in 1533, due to her marriage to Henry, the
future king of France, was the turning point in the gastronomy of France. She brought her
chefs, pastry makers, and gardeners, the finest from Florence. Did she intentionally bring
about the changes in French cookery or was it just a big accident? For the forty years
following Henry II's death, France was filled with turbulence as Protestants and Catholics
fought the bitter French Wars of Religion. In 1564, as a part of her effort to knit together the
divided kingdom, Catherine embarked on an epic journey with her second son, Charles IX.
The tour of his kingdom lasted more than 2 years. The object of this grand voyage de France
was to secure the loyalty of the people by showing their monarch to them.
The queen’s motive in making this trip was political, not gastronomic, but probably showed
more people how the court dined than a lifetime of giving banquets could. The king had a
master chef in his entourage, Guillaume Verger, who was assisted by a staff of five cooks and
an unknown number of kitchen boys. As the court slowly circled France, people in the
regions it passed through saw how and what the court ate. Local cooks had temporary jobs in
the kitchens that were set up along the way; this gave them the opportunity to observe the
techniques used by court cooks. The court style of cooking was Italian, as Catherine had
brought along her Italian cooks from Florence.
However this is not the only Italian influence in France, there had been constant travelling
between artists from France and Italy and so was there regular travelling between, the French
empire and the Vatican City. Catherine de Medici’s contribution to the development and
refreshment of French dining was in the planning and execution of court festivals. Modern
scholars regard her as having been one of the most imaginative producers of court festivals.
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Catherine de Medici’s dual effect: Haute cuisine and Bourgeoisie cuisine
France had been heavily influenced by the works of Catherine de Medici and thus one could
see the moulding of two cuisines, one, haute cuisine which evolved out of large households
which could afford skilled labour, various equipments and expensive ingredients and the
other the bourgeoisie cuisine out of small households which was simple and with inexpensive
ingredients.
La Varenne: The beginning of a new style of cooking
La Varenne marked a change in French cookery from what was known in the Middle Ages,
to somewhat lighter dishes which were modestly presented. He published ‘Le Cuisinier
François’ a cookbook and he is called ‘the founder of French classical cooking.’ A bouillon
went on to become an indispensable part for all dishes, whether they were soups, entrees, or
entrements. He also gave a recipe for roux in which flour is cooked in pork fat which
replaced bread crumbs. This roux was used as a thickening agent to make sauces. This made
French cookery very flexible; it allowed cooks to manage with whatever materials that were
available. His motto in food was “santé, moderation, raffinement.” (Health, moderation,
refinement)1
The Transition from Spices to Herbs
The seventeenth century also saw a culinary revolution which geared up French cookery into
the modern era. Exotic spices such as saffron, cumin, cardamom, ginger were replaced by
local herbs such as parsley, tarragon, thyme, bay leaf, chervil. New vegetables such as
cauliflower, asparagus, peas, cucumber and artichoke were introduced.
The Catholic Influence on Food and Wine
Pork fat which was originally used to make roux was now being substituted with butter, as butter had now been allowed during lent. This saw the substitution of butter in almost everything. As far as wine is considered, history of wine is not complete without discussing its role in the church. Wine is sacred to the holy church; it symbolizes the blood of Christ. During the 16th and 17th century the Catholic Church had immense power and they supported and encouraged the art of Wine making, helping the wide spread of wine.
The Invention of the Restaurant
1 Wheaton, B. K. (1996). Savouring the Past: The French kitchen and table from 1300 to 1789. New York: Simon &Schuster Inc.
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The term restaurant first appeared in 1765, on the streets of Poulies in Paris, near the Louvre
Museum, where a certain Boulanger called Champ d’Oiseaux, served “Restaurants,” that is,
broths; a rich flavoured soup. Portions of sheep trotters in a white sauce were also served.
This earned the Boulanger a law suit with the caterers who used to sell cooked meats during
those times. However the Boulanger won the law suit and thus continued its business. Later
on the place itself were people came to eat was called a Restaurant. The first restaurant in the
form that became standard was the Grand Taverne de Londres (the "Great Tavern of
London"), founded in Paris in 1782 by a man named Antoine Beauvilliers, who is the
essential link in bringing haute cuisine of the court to the streets. Dinners sat at private with
individual tables, it became a place where people could come and have a confidential or
romantic conversation over a sip of wine and dine together, away from the hustle and bustle
of the city.
The Printing Press: the wide spread of Cookbooks
The printing press was brought into France in 1470, but it had no immediate effect on the art
of cookery. Why? Well who would have written those books anyways? Cooks were ill-
literate in those days, they used to learn their craft from other fellow cooks. During the 17th
century, however the publication of cookbooks increased considerably and various ideas and
cooking techniques emerged and were now being shared.
Antonin Careme: The King of Chefs and the Chef of Kings
Antonin Careme born in 1784 was known as “The king of chefs and the chef of kings.” He is
also considered as one of the first, internationally renowned celebrity chefs. Antonin Careme
wrote many books but above all the encyclopaedic L'Art de la Cuisine Française which
showcased new techniques and styles of cooking. The basis for his style of cooking came
from his sauces, which he named mother sauces. His four mother sauces were Béchamel
(based on milk and thickened by white roux), Espagnole (based on brown stock thickened
with a brown roux), Veloute (based on white stock thickened by a blonde roux) and
Allemande (based on Veloute sauce but thickened with egg yolk and heavy cream). Careme
had also declared war on the use of excessive spices and used herbs instead.
By no means did Antonin Careme invent all the dishes that he explained. What he did was
give names to these dishes, however minor the difference between it and the basic recipe. The
point for Careme was that each variant have a distinct name, and that it be his designations.
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Haute cuisine 2010
He was very concerned to be clear, in hopes that “young practitioners” would find them
easier to remember. He is also frequently credited with replacing the practice of service a la
Française (serving all dishes at once) with service a la Russe (serving each dish in the order
printed on the menu).
The Third Power: The Critics
The largely unsung hero of the modern working class and middle class table was food critic
Grimod de la Ryniere (1758-1837). Son of a farmer general, trained as a lawyer, he had
serious interest in food and deep cynicism regarding the motives of the powerful. He was
called to be the “father of the table”. He invented (1804) a clever system for judging quality
and legitimating all that was best to eat. He brought together tasting juries who gave or
denied their blessing to the various dishes provided by restaurants owners, caterers,
delicatessens, pastry cooks, confectioners, etc. The results of these meticulous experiments
were published in L’ almananch des gourmands. He recommended that meals be simplified.
He was an early advocate of serving in the Russian style, instead of the old French style. The
service of a full meal in separate courses became standard in the most elegant and expensive
contexts by the 1860’s. Simplicity made the method adaptable for modest households, too.
Grimod introduced a third power, that of the critic, who sought to guide both of them the
producers and the consumers and whose role would only become greater. “Quality” now
came from work or performance, rather than bloodlines.
Necessity of Food and Wine Pairing
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Food and wine pairing is the process of matching food with wine to enhance the dining
experience. The history of food and wine pairing has its origins back in time, when wine was
first used as a sanitizing agent to purify water. In former days local food was merely paired
with local food. The basic principle behind pairing food and wine is that different
components in the food and the wine will react differently with each other; therefore it is
necessary to find the appropriate combination, to make the meal an enjoyable experience.
The most basic component in wine and food pairing is the balancing of the weight of the food
and the wine
Wines served at ‘The Dinner of the Three Emperors’
In 1867 Duglere a chef trained by Antonin Careme served a famous meal which became to be
known as the ‘diner des trios empereus,’ for Tsar Alexander of Russia, his son Tsarevitch and
the king of Prussia William I.
MENU2
Potages
Impératrice
(a chicken stock thickened with tapioca and finished with egg-yolks and cream)
Fontanges
(a purée of fresh peas diluted with consommé with chiffonade of sorrel and sprigs of chervil)
Relevés
Soufflé à la Reine
(a chicken soufflé with truffles)
2Adolphe Dugléré. (2009, December 28). Retrieved March 10, 2010, From Wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Adolphe_Dugl%C3%A9r%C3%A9
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Filets de sole à la Vénitienne
(fillet of sole in a sauce of white wine, mounted with butter and finished with chopped
chervil)
Escalope de turbot au gratin
Selle de mouton purée
(saddle of mutton with a purée of broad beans bound with Breton sauce)
Entrées
Poulet à la Portugaise
(chicken roasted with a covering of a tomato sauce, stuffed with tomato flavoured rice)
Pâté chaud de cailles
(warm pâté of quail.)
Homard à la Parisienne
(lobster cooked in bouillon, with a mixture of mayonnaise and aspic and garnished with
sliced truffle)
Digérer
Sorbets au Champagne
Rôts
Canetons à la Rouennaise
Ortolans sur canapés
(Ortolans on toast)
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Haute cuisine 2010
Entremets
Aubergines à l’Espagnole
(aubergine shells filled with chopped aubergine, tomato and ham, gratinéed with gruyère
cheese.)
Asperges en branches
Cassolette Princesse
(A Cassolette with a border of duchesse potatoes and an asparagus filling in cream sauce)
Dessert
Bombe glacée
(an ice-cream dessert)
Fruit
VINS
Madère retour de l'Inde 1810
Xérès 1821
Châteaux d'Yquem 1847
Chambertin 1846
Châteaux Margaux 1847
Château Latour 1847
Châteaux Lafite 1848
Champagne Roederer frappé
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Haute cuisine 2010
Madère retour de l’Inde 1810
Madeira is a fortified Portuguese wine strictly made in the Madeira Islands. The wine used in
the menu was a 57 year old, which was returned to the islands after a long sea voyage to
Southeast Asia (Indies), where it was exposed to excessive heat and movement which
transformed the flavour of the wine. This process is the original procedure of making the
wine, as Madeira was a standard port for ships heading to the new world and East Indies.
Now days the estufagem aging process is followed which duplicates the effect of a long sea
voyage of the aging barrels through tropical climates. It is served at room temperature.
Xérès 1821
Xeris was the Arabic name for the city of Jerez. Today the names Jerez, Xérès, or Sherry are
synonymous with the wines from the region of Jerez de la Frontera. Sherry is a fortified wine
made from palomino grapes a white variety grown near the town Jerez, Spain. Brandy is
added to the wine to fortify it, but only after the fermentation is over. The sherry used in the
menu was a 46 year old wine. It is Served chilled.
Châteaux d'Yquem 1847 (20 yr old)
Chateau d’Yquem produces top quality sauterne wines from the southern part of Bordeaux. It
is classified as a premier cru superieur (superior first growth), the highest level in the
Bordeaux wine official classification of 1855 for red wines. Sauterne is a dessert wine known
for its complexity, sweetness and concentration. It has a relatively high acidity level which
helps to balance the sweetness. The grape varieties used are Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and
Cabernet Franc. It is a robust medium to full bodied red wine with aromas of cinnamon and
black currant. It also produces a white wine called Ygrec made from Semillon and Sauvignon
Blanc. It is an elegant dry white wine with apricot and lime-flower aromas.
Chambertin 1846 (21 year old)
It is a deep coloured full bodied red wine made with Pinot Noir as the main variety with
Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris as accessory grapes. Chambertin is called ‘The King
of Wines.’ It has a fruity flavour with perfumed aromas; it is a rich and intense wine and has
a long aging capability.
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Châteaux Margaux 1847 (20 year old)
It is a wine estate of Bordeaux. It produces the most delicate Margaux wine of the Medoc
region. Margaux premier cru classe is the only premier cru of the appellation of Margaux. It
also produces Margaux pavilion and Pavilion Blanc. Margaux wines contain 60-75%
Cabernet Sauvignon; the other grapes used are Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.
Elegance is key concept of Margaux, combined with delicious fruits when young. The subtle
tannins hold firm during long aging, leading, in the case of the greatest wines.
Château Latour 1847 (20 year old)
Chateau Latour is a French wine estate in the Bordeaux region of France. The chateau is one
of the four chateaux as the absolute top crus under the 1855 Bordeaux classification. The
wines produced are Pauillac premier cru classe and les Forts de Latour. The grape varieties
used for making a Pauillac are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, of Cabernet Franc and Petit
Verdot. 75% of Cabernet Sauvignon makes a Latour Pauillac par excellence- firm, big, age
able- that is considered. At the end of the 18th century Thomas Jefferson described the wine
as one of the best of Bordeaux. It is a full bodied red wine, with aromas of cedar and black
currant.
Châteaux Lafite (19 year old)
Chateaux Lafit is a wine estate in the same region as Chateau Latour. It is now owned my
Rothschild banking family of France since the 19th century. Chateau Lafite is also one of the
four chateaux as the absolute top crus. The wines produced by this region are Pauillac
premier cru classe and Moulin des Carruades. The Pauillac wine of this chateau uses 70 %
cabernet sauvignon.
Champagne Roederer frappé
It is a half frozen Louis Roederer champagne. Louis Roederer is a champagne producer in the
region of Remis, France. It produces a luxury champagne called Cristal which is
approximately an equal blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, it is also available as a rosé
wine, which contains more Pinot and by addition of a little red wine.
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Haute cuisine 2010
The selection of the wines for the dinner of the three emperors reflects the popularity of
international wines like Sherry and Madeira during the haute cuisine period. Prestigious and
famous wines from burgundy and specially Bordeaux are also prominent. Champagne had
been readily consumed by the high court during this era with their meals and during special
occasions.
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Haute cuisine 2010
Auguste Escoffier: The Modernization of Haute Cuisine
Born in 1847 Georges Auguste Escoffier modernized French Haute cuisine. His influence
began with the rise in hotels in Europe during the 80’s and 90’s. He created a system of
“parties” called the brigade de cuisine. This structured team system delegates responsibilities
to different individuals that specialize in certain tasks, thus the dish could be prepared in a
shorter time and served quickly.
Escoffier published Le Guide Culinaire which is still used as a reference work in form of a
cookbook as well as a textbook on cooking. Much of the techniques were based on that of
Antoine Careme. He added two egg based emulsions hollandaise and mayonnaise and a
tomato sauce to Careme’s mother sauces list. He had a simple saying on cooking, “La Bonne
cuisine Est celle ou les choses ont le gout de cequelles sont.”(Good cooking is that in which
things taste of what they are)3
The French Revolution effect
Although the French Revolution disrupted culinary and gastronomic institutions as it did the
rest of French society, more survived than was lost. The guilds were abolished; aristocratic
households, the centre of haute cuisine until this time, were severely disrupted in many cases
and destroyed in others. This meant that a chef could now produce and sell any culinary item
he wished. Many cooks who had been working in royal courts became jobless; this caused
some of them to go abroad, while others went to work for the restaurants.
The Parisian lifestyle
In Paris the outburst of gastronomy took place due to the lifestyle habits of the upper middle
class who had abundance of wealth to spend and could dictate their tastes to all the cooks.
Moreover, it was the capital of fashion, theatre and music. One ate well at the provinces too
but, straightforward, generous food, prepared with local products and rather easy on the
pocket.
Rise of the Automobiles: the growth of Food and Wine
3 Gillespie, C. (2001). European Gastronomy into the 21st Century. Oxford: Butterworth-Heinemann.
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Haute cuisine 2010
In the 20th century, the forties brought war, death and deprivation, while the mostly chaotic
fifties saw the start of rebuilding the national order. By the sixties, though, the invention and
boom of the automobile industry took place. By the mid-sixties the entire country was
passionately on the road and French drivers were already carving out the reputation that they
still proudly uphold today as the worst menaces on the entire European highway system.
However French drivers also have a pronounced tendency to get hungry, and if there is one
thing that a Frenchman or Frenchwomen enjoys more than driving at breakneck speed, it is
lunch at a snail’s pace and the same goes for dinner. Generally from large cities tourists took
wild pleasure in the change in scenery offered through local cuisines and wines consumed in
the landscapes of its origin. This trend turned out to be a boom for the regional wineries.
Soon there was hardly a village in France without a restaurant serving true French food
accompanied with regional wines.
The Power of ‘Gastronomic Literature’
Maybe in France more than nowhere else, the oral and written culture of fine eating and good
wine runs parallel to its subject historically and supports the latter’s development. It is said
that the French people of all classes like to talk about what they eat and drink, before during
and after. The famous, “and afterward, you talk about it” is a line attributed to many fine
eaters. Certainly cuisine cannot exist without food; nor can it survive without words. Cooking
turns the raw into cooked, and writing transforms the cooked into cultural.
The Michelin Guide
Throughout the 19th century, guides appeared in France: travel guides, guides for eating out,
for the gourmand, for the pleasure seekers, etc most of them gave information on the food
and lodging the tourist could hope to find in the Provence but left the gastronome unsatisfied.
Not until the automobile boom did the situation improve. Andre’ Michelin’s guide appeared
beginning in 1900: it included numerous addresses of hotels, restaurants and garages, but no
indication of the quality of the fare. However, the 1931 edition established a hierarchy going
from one to three stars. Culinary guides have helped to define modern haute cuisine.
Adaptation to Modernization
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Haute cuisine 2010
The 1960s were marked by the appearance of "nouvelle cuisine" as chefs rebelled from
Escoffier's "orthodoxy". Within 20 years, however, chefs began returning to the earlier style
of haute cuisine, although many of the new techniques remained.
Fernand Point is known to be the father of modern gastronomy, his contribution to French
cuisine is enormous. Point’s cuisine was a personal, freewheeling derivation of the grand old
Escoffier tradition, simplified and trimmed of the extravagance flamboyance common to the
big-city hotel restaurants. Point, trained a generation of chef's who would take his ideas to
new heights: Paul Bocuse, Jean and Pierre Troisgros, Alain Chapel, Francois Bise, Louis
Outhier, and Michel Guérard and Roger Vergé became the pioneers of the expansion of
Nouvelle Cuisine into the 1970's.The last generation of chefs who learned all the lessons
from masters like Joel Robuchon, Alain Ducasse, Eric Ripert, Paul Bocuse, the Troisgros
brothers etc have applied them with a more modern style and individual panache, and this has
resulted in restaurants around the world now serving in more casual surroundings the same
quality of haute cuisine that used to be served. Haute cuisine’s concepts have filtered down
into every kind of restaurant, from the commitment to freshness in every ingredient to the
stocking of wine lists that are designed to complement the chef’s food.
Haute Cuisine Influence: Restaurants in New York
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Haute cuisine 2010
Many restaurants all around the world have been influenced by French haute cuisine,
especially New York. In New York there are five, 3 Michelin starred restaurants and out of
which four are French influents. The chefs of these restaurants are also either French or
influenced by French cuisine.
Restaurant Daniel
Restaurant Daniel serves traditional French haute cuisine, with readily available ingredients
in America. It is a true French adaptation in New York. Daniel Boulud a French chef and
restaurateur run the restaurant.
Per Se
A restaurant owned by the famous Thomas Keller, who learned fundamental French cooking
in France. One can see the French influence in the cuisine served at Per Se. It features two
Prix Fixe menus. A style originated during the haute cuisine era.
Jean Georges
Jean Georges is a French chef from Alsace, after whom the restaurant is named. This also is a
French influenced restaurant in Manhattan.
Le Bernardin
Le Bernardin is also referred to as the Temple of Seafood. The famous chef Eric Ripert who
has his origins in France is the person behind the excellent cuisine being served.
Conclusion
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Haute cuisine 2010
And what is to be made of Careme and Escoffier today? What lessons do their career, their
work, and their personal qualities holds for one? They have more to tell than what one might
suppose on the culinary front. Even though banquets today no longer come even close to
what they thought was mandatory for a proper culinary spectacle, however by no means has
their techniques died out. On the contrary, it turns up today in all sorts of ways and often in
unexpected venues. Every cuisine may not necessarily adapt to the changes in trends and
human expectations, how Haute cuisine has adapted in the modern world. The theoretical
aura of Careme’s new cuisine, his emphasis on the principles of a culinary system fostered an
exceptionally strong identity for French cuisine. Like Careme and Escoffier, today chefs are
on the lookout for new implements and appliances, methods and techniques. Do not the
bouillon cubes that can be found in any supermarket today bespeak their shortcut of reducing
sauces?
If the definition of haute cuisine is rich, extravagant, overly elaborate food full of truffles and
caviar served on gold-rimmed plates along with the finest wines of France at astonishing
prices, then there are more than enough such places still thriving in Paris, New York and
Tokyo. But the heart of haute cuisine has always really been the excellence of product, the
care in cooking it, and the richly flavourful result that distinguishes it from food that is
merely tasty. And under that definition, haute cuisine has never been more popular.
“The only thing constant in life is change [thus one should learn to adapt accordingly]”-
François de la Rochefoucauld
Menu
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Haute cuisine 2010
Frog legs with garlic puree and parsley jus
The garlic puree used here is very mild as it is boiled several times; therefore it has a pleasant
taste. The wine paired with it is a Fordant Merlot Rose 2008. It has a raspberry mixed with
strawberry and a bit of watermelon flavour. It is a good summertime wine.
Mushrooms Olivier
The mushrooms are served in a creamy sauce. Therefore the wine pared with it should be a
dry white wine so that it will help to cleanse the palate. The wine paired for it is a
Savennieres wine, which is a Chenin Blanc variety wine from the Loire valley, Domaines
Des Baumard Savennieres 2005
Poached chicken with foie gras
It is a high flavoured dish with high fatty content too. Therefore it should be paired with a
flavourful wine, so that the food does not over power the wine. It is paired with a Bordeaux
Pomerol wine La Conseillante Pomerol 2005
Camembert
It is a white rind soft cheese; therefore full bodied champagne will be an ideal choice, as the
bubbles will help to wipe the palate clean. The champagne paired with the cheese is Alfred
Gratien Cuvee Pavadis Brut Champagne.
Bavarois cream with walnuts
It is a creamy dessert with a nutty flavour. The wine paired with it is a Taylor Fladgate
Vintage 1994, it is a port wine.
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Haute cuisine 2010
Bibliography
Lecture notes:
Joshi, A. (2010). Food and wine harmony. [Rules for perfect pairing, Saturday, 16th January, 2010].
Books :
Aambramson, J. (2007). Food Culture in France. London: Greenwood Press.
Chelminski, R. (2005). The Perfectionist: Life and death in haute cuisine. New York: Gotham Books.
Domine, A. (2001). Wine. Cologne: Konemann.
Ferguson, P. P. (2004). Accounting for Taste: The trimph of french cuisine. Chicago: The University of Chicago Press.
Foulkes, C. (2001). La Rousse: Encyclopedia of wine. kingston: Hamlyn.
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Wheaton, B. K. (1996). Savouring the Past: The french kitchen and table from 1300 to 1789. New York: Simon & Schuster inc.
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Websites:
Adolphe Dugléré. (2009, december 28). Retrieved march 10, 2010, from wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Adolphe_Dugl%C3%A9r%C3%A9
Alexandre Balthazar Laurent Grimod de La Reynière. (2010, februry 15). Retrieved february 20, 2010, from wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alexandre_Balthazar_Laurent_Grimod_de_La_Reyni%C3%A8re
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Brigade de cuisine. (2010, february 21). Retrieved february 22, 2010, from wikipedia: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brigade_de_cuisine
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Chambertin. (2010, february 12). Retrieved march 12, 2010, from wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chambertin
Château d'Yquem. (2010, february 22). Retrieved march 12, 2010, from wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ch%C3%A2teau_d%27Yquem
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Haute cuisine 2010
French cuisine. (2010, february 9). Retrieved february 22, 2010, from wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_cuisine#17th_Century_-_Early_18th_Century
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Henry II of France. (2010, february 15). Retrieved february 26, 2010, from wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Henry_II_of_France
Jean-Georges. (n.d.). Retrieved march 13, 2010, from jean-georges: http://www.jean-georges.com/
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Jerez-Xérès-Sherry y Manzanilla de Sanlúcar de Barrameda. (2007, december 14). Retrieved march 12, 2010, from wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jerez-X%C3%A9r%C3%A8s-Sherry_y_Manzanilla_de_Sanl%C3%BAcar_de_Barrameda
Joel Roubuchon. (n.d.). Retrieved march 13, 2010, from joel-roubuchon: http://www.joel-robuchon.com/
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Madeira wine. (2010, february 26). Retrieved march 12, 2010, from wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Madeira_wine
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Haute cuisine 2010
Margaux. (2010, march 1). Retrieved march 12, 2010, from wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Margaux
Mariani, J. (2009, august 12). Is Haute Cuisine Dead? Not by a Long Shot! Retrieved february 27, 2010, from fourseasons: http://magazine.fourseasons.com/articles/global/interest/restaurants_cuisine/is_haute_cuisine_dead_not_by_a_long_shot
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Pierre La Varenne. (2010, january 9). Retrieved february 24, 2010, from wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fran%C3%A7ois_Pierre_La_Varenne
Restaurant. (2010, january 9). Retrieved february 19, 2010, from wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Restaurant
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Sirio Maccioni. (2010, 24 january). Retrieved march 13, 2010, from wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sirio_Maccioni
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