Hairdressing Module 2- Stylist and Client

Ha Module 2 Stylist and client

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Stylist and clientIntroduction to Module 2In order to consult with and advise clients effectively, stylists require athorough knowledge of the science and structure of hair as well as ofcutting, colouring and perming methods. They also need to be able tolisten to and question clients and keep accurate records of consultationsand treatments.

Much of the information learners are required to learn is in written form,which can be challenging for them to both read and remember. Some ofthe information is delivered through verbal instructions and practicaltraining and again learners will need strategies to help them understandand remember what they are told in order to be able to apply it whenworking in the salon.

The emphasis in this module is on learners having the professionalknowledge to advise clients. It gives learners an opportunity to developthe skills and strategies needed to read and understand complicatedscientific information and to apply it to hypothetical real-life situations.The module includes:

■ listening to and asking questions of clients

■ using diagrams to help understand what is being read

■ making notes about information

■ following spoken instructions accurately

■ understanding the pH scale

■ developing knowledge about products

■ what to do when things don’t go according to plan.

The scenarios used in this module may not be familiar to all learners.However, the skills practised are transferable to many settings. Teachersshould support learners to apply skills taught to their own workenvironment and can encourage learners to bring their own experiencesto bear when taking part in discussions and group work.

Module 2 Stylist and clientHa

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Hairdressing – Module 2: Stylist and client

Theme Page reference NOS/NVQ Literacy Numeracy Key Skills

Client consultation Ha 2:1–2:2 Unit G7 SLlr/L1.1; SLlr/L1.3; SLc/L1.2; Rt/L1.4; Wt/L1.2; Wt/L1.4; Wt/L1.5

Hair structure and types Ha 2:3–2:4 Unit G7; Rt/E3.9Unit H7

Science and hair Ha 2:5–2:6 Unit G6; SLlr/L2.1; SLlr/L2.2; C1.3Unit G7; Wt/L1.2; Wt/L1.4; Unit H7; Wt/L1.5; Wt/L2.2;Unit H9; Wt/L2.4; Rw/L1.2Unit H10; Unit H11;Unit H12; Unit H13;Unit H14; Unit H15;Unit H18

Completing tests Ha 2:7–2:8 Unit G5; SLlr/L1.1; SLlr/L1.2; C1.1Unit H13; SLlr/L1.3; SLlr/L1.4; Unit H15 SLlr/L2.2; SLc/L1.1;

SLc/L1.2; SLc/L1.3; SLc/L1.4

The pH scale Ha 2:9–2:10 Unit H9 N2/E3.3; N2/L1.4; HD1/E3.1

Product knowledge Ha 2:11–2:12 Unit G6; Rt/L2.5; Rt/L2.6; Rt/L2.7; Unit G7 Wt/L1.5

Advising clients Ha 2:13–2:14 Unit G7 SLlr/L1.1; SLlr/L2.4; C2.1bSLc/L2.1; SLd/L2.4; SLd/L2.5

Client records Ha 2:15–2:16 Unit G5 SLlr/L1.1; SLc/L1.2; Rt/L1.4; Wt/L1.2; Wt/L1.4; Wt/L1.5; Wt/L1.6; Ww/L1.2

Sections and cutting Ha 2:17–2:18 Unit H6; MSS2/E3.1angles Unit H7

Solving problems Ha 2:19–2:20 Rt/L1.4; Rt/L1.5; Rw/L1.2 HD1/E2.1 C1.2; N1.1

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Skills checklistAdvising clients means listening to whatthey have to say about their hair, askingappropriate questions and coming upwith suitable suggestions for styles andtreatments.

To be able to advise clients on styles andtreatments, you need a lot of knowledgeabout the science of hair and hairproducts. This will involve findinginformation in books and on productlabels as well as listening to training.

The skills listed below cover the science ofhair and products and how to provide aknowledgeable service to your clients.You may also need to find out what to doif things do go wrong. Tick the skills youfeel confident about now. Complete theactivities in this module to help youimprove on the skills you have not ticked.Return to the list later to check any areaswhere you still need some practice.

Skills for stylist and client Now Later

Listening to clients and asking questions

Speaking to clients to offer suggestions

Completing forms and client records

Reading information that uses diagrams

Making notes to help remember information

Following spoken instructions

Understanding pH

Finding information in books and on the Internet

Understanding cutting angles

Finding information in a table

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Client consultation

Occupational settingThe consultation is often the first communicationthat a stylist has with a client. It is important tospend time getting to know the client’s hair andquestioning the client on his or her requirementsand expectations of the service. The stylist willalso need to complete a styling analysis – decidingwhat to do with the client’s hair so that the clientwill be satisfied with the service and the finalresult. Many salons have a consultation sheet thatis completed before anything is done to the hairin terms of cutting or styling. This theme focuseson specific consultation skills intended to gatherinformation, including observation, questioning,confirming and filling in consultation sheets.More detail about giving information andadvising clients can be found in ‘Advising clients’on pages 2:13–2:14. This theme has applicationsfor use with the Habia Learning Support pack forHairdressing: Level 2, unit G7 – ‘Advise andconsult with clients’.

Materials Workplace client consultation sheets, if applicable– hard copies and on overhead transparency(OHT)

Pictures, books or handouts that illustrate thingsto observe about a client during a consultation(see ‘Observe’ list on the focus page)

Source material:– Face shape cards (0:19)– Cutting consultation form (0:20), hard copies

and on OHT– Cutting consultation checklist (0:21), hard

copies and on OHT– Client cards (0:22)

Audio equipment

Learning outcomes1 To ask questions to find out relevant

information from clients (focus page, Tasks 1and 2)

2 To listen to a client’s requests and wishes (focuspage, Tasks 1 and 2)

3 To check and confirm information from theclient (focus page, Tasks 1 and 2)

4 To use organisational features to locateinformation (focus page, Task 1)

5 To fill in required consultation sheets orchecklists (focus page, Tasks 1 and 2)

Suggested teaching activitiesNote: it is assumed that learners already havesome knowledge or understanding of the items inthe Observe list on the focus page. However,teachers may want to provide further examplesand explanations from books, handouts or sectionG7 of the Habia materials or to demonstrate usinga model (e.g. hair growth patterns such aswidow’s peak, double crown, cow’s lick, etc.)

Introduction

■ Discuss the purpose of client consultations andwhy they are important.

■ Either demonstrate good practice for a clientconsultation or explain while someone elsecarries out a good demonstration. Make surethe four key areas (Observe, Question, Checkand Record) shown on the focus page arecovered. If possible, explain what is happeningat each stage.

■ Ask learners what they might look for whenobserving a client’s hair. Write their ideas onthe board/flipchart for later use.

Focus page

■ Explain to learners that they will be thinkingabout the processes or steps that you gothrough during a consultation, except forgiving advice to the client.

■ Read through the bullet points on observationand compare these with the list of learners’ideas. Did they think of any more? Did theyforget any? Go through the points and giveexamples of these. Use the Face shapes fromthe Source material if required.

■ Read the information on asking questions,including the tips. Give examples of closed andopen questions relating to hair condition.

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■ Ask learners for more examples of open andclosed questions relating to the other areas ofobservation listed. Write their ideas on theboard/flipchart.

■ If learners have problems with open questions,start with some key question words such as‘what?’, ‘why?’ and ‘how?’. Turn a closedquestion into an open one. For example, ‘Doyou use a heated brush?’ to ‘How do you dryyour hair?’ Practise asking questions in pairs.Explain how questioning techniques are alsouseful when chatting to a client during atreatment.

■ Explain that the type of question you ask willdepend on what information you are trying toget and whether you feel the client wants togive a lot of information or is relying on you.Point out that if a client is trying to give shortanswers even to open questions, it may bebecause they don’t want to give information orthey don’t really know the answers.

■ Some clients might hide information (forexample, if they have coloured their hair athome and don’t want to admit it). By watchingthe client closely and listening to what they sayand how they say it, learners will be able to‘read between the lines’ and pick up onimportant additional information. Ask learnersif they have any experience of this and giveexamples from your own experience that theycan look out for.

■ Explain that it is a good idea to double-checkclients’ answers by repeating the informationback to them or asking them questions aboutwhat they said to check you have understoodit.

■ Introduce phrases for checking and confirming,such as ‘So, you think that …?’ ‘Did you meanthat you …?’. Turn the learners’ list of openand closed questions into check and confirmquestions using these or similar phrases.

■ Explain the purpose of recording theinformation and the importance of beingfamiliar with the consultation sheet so you areclear about the information required and whereand how to record it on the sheet.

■ Explain that consultation sheets differ fromsalon to salon. Look at the large versions of theCutting consultation form and checklist fromthe Source material.

■ Go through the Cutting consultation checklistfirst, explaining that this is a quick way to notedown observations. Go through the technicalwords and give an example of how to fill it inon the OHT.

■ Ask learners to fill it in using the informationgiven in the first ‘Try this’ box. Check theiranswers.

■ Go through the Cutting consultation form,explaining any technical terms and pointingout the different methods used for filling ininformation.

■ Give an example on the overhead projector(OHP) of the sort of things you might writefrom the earlier demonstration.

■ Explain to learners that they are going to fill inthe ‘Client requirements’ section after listeningto a client. Play the audio clip for gist first.

■ ESOL learners may need to developunderstanding of vocabulary likely to be usedby clients and will need lots of listeningpractice.

■ Play the audio clip again and ask learners to fillin the information. Check their answers.

■ Ask learners to fill in the next two sections onface shape and hair type after observing apartner. Check their answers and ask if therewere any problems.

■ Look at copies of the workplace form and gothrough this as with the other forms. Displaythis form on the OHP and fill in theinformation from the original demonstration.

■ Learners may find it useful to have key wordsarising from this session on the board and tokeep a personal glossary.

Task 1 Observe, question and confirm information SLlr/L1.1SLlr/L1.3SLc/L1.2Rt/L1.4

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2:1–2:2 Client consultation

Curric. refs NOS/NVQ Key Skills

SLlr/L1.1 Unit G7SLlr/L1.3SLc/L1.2Rt/L1.4Wt/L1.2Wt/L1.4Wt/L1.5

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■ Explain that learners are to work in pairs, andthat the activity has three parts. Read throughthe instructions for each part.

■ ESOL learners may need help with technicalwords such as ‘layered’, ‘trim’ and ‘parting’.

■ Make sure the learners have the Cuttingconsultation checklist and form from theSource material for this task. Show them theforms and point out that the checklist is usedfor part 1 and the form for part 2. This helps togive them a visual reminder.

■ Point out the tips.

■ Explain the question and replies in part 2should be written in the speech-bubbles.

■ Emphasise that learners should swop roles andrepeat each part so that they all get a turn.

If the learner has difficulty■ Make sure learners understand the technical

words on the checklist. Go through these withthem.

■ Learners may require further support in theirobservations. If possible, provide them withhelpful illustrations, pictures or descriptions ofhair types.

■ Ask direct questions to lead them toconclusions about the hair, for example, ‘Doesit feel dry?’

■ Remind learners of the difference betweenopen and closed questions. Point out anyexamples left on the board from the focus pagediscussions.

■ Get learners to experiment first by askingquestions and seeing whether the answers areshort or include some explanation.

■ If necessary, give learners some key questionwords to help them ask more open questions(e.g. ‘what’, ‘why’ and ‘how’).

■ For the third part, encourage learners to repeatthe information they have written in the replyspeech-bubble using a key introductory phrase,such as ‘So you said that …’.

■ Support learners in transposing the writtenreply into a confirmation question using thephrases discussed during the focus pageactivities.

ExtensionLearners should ask their partners furtherquestions about the type of hair products he orshe uses and details of any ‘good’ and ‘bad’ pasthairstyles.

Task 2

Fill in the relevant sections of the Cuttingconsultation formSLlr/L1.1SLlr/L1.3SLc/L1.2Wt/L1.2Wt/L1.4Wt/L1.5

■ Make sure learners each have a copy of theCutting consultation form and the Client cardsfrom the Source material.

■ Read through the three bullet-points explainingthe role-play.

■ Read out an example of a Client card takenfrom the Source material. Explain that theperson playing the client has to read out theinformation exactly as it is on the card.

■ Point out the tip and explain that the stylistcan ask for information to be repeated, as thiswould be possible in real life.

■ Point out that both learners should take a turnat role-playing the stylist.

If the learner has difficulty■ Go through the information on the card with

the learners who will be reading it out, to makesure they can read it and understand what theyare saying.

■ Some ESOL learners may require help with thevocabulary.

■ Some dyslexic learners may be reluctant to role-play, especially if they are required to read toanother learner. Allow dyslexic learners to workwith a pair so that they have support inreading the information on the Client cards.

■ Make sure the learners filling in the form areclear which parts to fill in. Put an asterisk bythese sections to remind them.

■ Encourage learners to jot down keyinformation on a separate sheet of paper first,before filling in the form. They can thendouble-check it.

■ Filling in a form whilst another person iswaiting can be stressful to dyslexic learners.Encourage learners to develop a series ofphrases and tactics to help them to deal withthis pressure. This could be done inconjunction with other learners or throughrole-play.

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■ Encourage learners to ask the person readingout the information to repeat anything theymissed.

■ At the end, encourage learners to check theinformation together.

ExtensionAsk learners to design their own ‘user friendly’consultation sheet to remind them of what to aska client during a consultation.

Theme assessment■ Observe the learner conducting a consultation

with a client. Afterwards, discuss with thelearner:– the use s/he made of questions– how well s/he listened to the client– how the consultation card was completed.

■ Based on this discussion, learners can draw upa list of areas for improvement. This can beworked on and the learner observed on a futureoccasion.

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Cutting Consultation Form

Client’s name: Stylist:

CLIENT REQUIREMENTS

What are the client’s styling wishes?

Expectations of the haircut: Dry trim, re-style, neckline shape, sideburns

Face shape: oval round rectangular heart

triangular square diamond

Hair type/movement: curly wavy straight

Hair texture: Degree of fineness? Very coarse?

Abundance of hair: How much is there?

Natural growth patterns:

Hair condition: Porosity and elasticity

Client personality/dress/lifestyle:

Client limitations: Check whether the client will be able to maintain the style at home

Suggested style:

Cutting techniques to be used:

Client consultationThe consultation is the first communication that a stylist haswith a client. It is important to spend time finding outabout the client’s hair, requirements and expectations.

Focus

Tips

● Closed questions will resultin short answers such as ‘yes’or ‘no’.

● Open questions will result inexplanations or descriptions.

Observe

● hair condition● texture● scalp condition● face shape● hair growth patterns/

natural partings● hair length● present style (in case

the client wants tokeep it the same).

Record

● What information is required?● Where should it go?

Check

● Repeat.● Confirm.

Try this

Fill in the Cuttingconsultation checklistfrom the Sourcematerial for a round-faced client with adouble crown whohas short, dry, coarsehair.

Try this

Listen to the client.Make a note of howshe wants her haircut and styled.

Tip

Make sure you knowwhat the headings mean.

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You will need to befamiliar with yourconsultation form. Lookfor the use of:

● headings (telling youwhat information toput where)

● tick boxes● lines, spaces or large

boxes to write ininformation.

Question

● closed questions● open questions

Cutting consultation checklist

Condition Texture Scalp condition Face shape Hair growth Hair length patterns/natural and typepartings

Dry Fine Healthy Oval Cowlick Short

Normal Medium Dry/sensitive Round Double Just abovecrown shoulders

Oily Thick Cuts/ Rectangular Nape Just below abrasions irregular shoulders

Damaged Coarse Scalp Heart Widow’s Longproblems peak

Coloured Triangular Left side Curlyparting

Permed Square Right side Wavyparting

Diamond Fringe Straight

When did you lastwash your hair?

How do youdecide when towash your hair?

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Client consultation

Task 1

Work with a partner.

1 Observe your partner’s hair and face. Fill in the Cuttingconsultation checklist from the Source material.

Swop over and repeat the activity.

2 Ask your partner one closed question and one openquestion about the condition or style of his/her hair.

Write the questions and replies in the speech-bubblesbelow.


Task

SLlr/L1.1; SLlr/L1.3; SLc/L1.2; Rt/L1.4; Wt/L1.2; Wt/L1.4; Wt/L1.5Speak and listen to clients and record information.

3 Use your partner’s replies to repeat and confirm theinformation to him or her.


Task 2

Role-play part of a consultation with a partner. One personis the stylist and the other is the client. You will need theClient cards and a Cutting consultation form from theSource material.

● The client chooses a Client card and reads theinformation on it to the stylist.

● The stylist uses this information to fill in the ‘clientrequirements’ section of the Cutting consultation form.

● Swop roles and repeat the role-play with a differentClient card.

Tip

Check what sort ofinformation is requiredon the checklist.

Tip

Use the Cuttingconsultation form fromthe Source material tohelp you think ofquestions.

Tip

Check and confirm theinformation.

Remember!

● Closed questions ➡short answers.

● Open questions ➡more explanation ordescription.

Question 1 – closed Reply

Question 2 – open Reply


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PAGES 2:3–2:4

Hair structure and types

Occupational settingDiagrams are used extensively in hairdressingtraining. This theme suggests techniques forinterpreting and using diagrams, as well asremembering the information they contain. Itfocuses on specific diagrams, but the sametechniques could be applied to any diagram,including those on instructions for the use ofproducts and materials and on safety equipment.

Materials Text books and training materials that usediagrams in explanations about hair structure andhair types

Paper and felt-tip pens

OHT/drawing on a flipchart of a very simplediagram with only two or three labels (e.g. cross-section of a hair showing the cuticle, cortex andmedulla)

The structure of the skin from the Source material(0:23)

Learning outcomes1 To interpret and use diagrams to support

reading (focus page, Tasks 1 and 2)

Suggested teaching activitiesIntroduction

■ Working in pairs or small groups, get learnersto test the time taken to guess what somethingis, first of all from a verbal description andthen from a picture. Model the process bydescribing a mug of tea, using complicatedwords if possible (e.g. this is a receptacle usedfor beverages that are prepared using boilingH2O ...), and then showing a drawing of it.Give learners ideas such as a hairdryer, amirror, scissors, etc. Hopefully the guesses fromthe pictures will be quicker than the verbaldescriptions, to prove that diagrams, or picturesin this case, can help to give a reader a clearerpicture of what is being described in words.

■ Ask learners for their experiences of usingdiagrams in books, instruction leaflets, etc.acknowledging difficulties and successes.Discuss diagrams in the text books/trainingmaterials.

Focus page

■ Use the diagram on the page and go throughthe points.

■ References to diagrams in the text. Diagramsmay be on another page or in a different partof the book, or one in a sequence, so it isimportant that learners use the references tofind the correct one. Explain ‘Fig.’.

■ Titles. This is another check that the correctdiagram is being used.

■ Labels. These often contain words that areunfamiliar. – Technical vocabulary can be looked up in a

glossary. Check that learners understandhow to use a glossary – words are arrangedin alphabetical order – inserting the newmeaning into the sentence that the originalword or phrase came from to see that itmakes sense.

– Other words can be looked up in adictionary. Check that learners understandhow to look up standard words and phrasesin a dictionary: using the guide words at thetop of the page to locate a word; selectingthe correct meaning, if there is a choice, bytesting them out in the original sentence.

– Looking for further explanations in thesurrounding text. Check that learners knowhow to scan the text for a particular word aswell as how to use an index to findreferences to a particular word or subject.

– For some learners, following the lines fromthe diagram to the label is a problem,especially if it is a line diagram. Give learnersstrategies such as following the lines with afinger or pencil.

– Checking between text and diagram. Thediagram is usually there to support the text;both need to be understood together. Gothrough the suggested strategies.


■ Remembering information. – Dyslexic learners would benefit from having

a second copy of the diagram, withoutlabels, to label.

– Draw a simple diagram. Ask learners tostudy the diagram and then to envisage it intheir mind’s eye. Let them check the originaland then picture it again. Finally ask them todraw the diagram from memory and thencheck it against the original. If learners havedifficulty spelling the labels, offer strategiesfor remembering spellings.

– Go through the memory strategies coveredon the page. Ask learners to share theirexisting strategies for rememberinginformation.

– Relating the diagram to the real thing is animportant part of remembering. The diagramneeds to have meaning and relevance.

■ Complete the session by summing up theimportance of interpreting diagrams and howthey can be used for remembering informationas well as learning it.

Task 1

Use a diagram and text to answer some questionsRt/E3.9

■ Remind learners of the points on the focuspage – each of the questions reflects a pointfrom the focus page.

■ Briefly discuss the materials on the page. Whatare they about? Why do you need to know thisinformation?

■ Ensure learners understand what they have todo.

If the learner has difficulty■ Take a point at a time and talk the learner

through finding the required information.

■ Repeat the process with further diagrams fromtextbooks/resource materials used by thelearner, gradually adding a degree ofindependence.

ExtensionAsk learners to describe or draw the diagram frommemory.


Rt/E3.9 Unit G7Unit H7

Task 2

Use a diagram and some text to rememberinformation and tell somebody about what youhave readRt/E3.9

■ Learners work in pairs. Go through the textand diagram as a group to ensure that learnersunderstand the information and particularlysome of the technical language. Encouragelearners to look up definitions and to recordthese in their own words.

■ Remind learners of techniques for rememberinginformation.

■ Suggest learners make notes as they read/lookat the diagram. Cards or sticky notes can beused to record individual bits of information.

■ Ask learners to be constructive when they feedback to their partner or to the group. The ideais to convey the knowledge they have gained toanother person. Use the points on the focuspage as a checklist when considering whetherall the points about skin structure werecovered.

If the learner has difficulty■ The language in the text may be a barrier to

some learners. Ask them to highlight wordsthat they do not understood. Look these up.

■ Some learners may need support to pronouncewords. Hearing the pronunciation will supportmemory. Ask dyslexic learners to repeat eachword aloud to further aid pronunciation.

■ Suggest ways of remembering technicalvocabulary (e.g. mnemonics or association).

■ Use the diagram as a starting point. Asklearners to tell you what they know about eachpart. Write brief notes on sticky notes andplace on the diagram.

■ Support the learner to practise visualising andreproducing a sketch of the diagram. Emphasisethat their drawing/diagram does not need to be‘well drawn’ as long as it is accurate. As theydraw, ask the learner to talk about what theyare drawing and ask questions to reinforcelearning.

■ Allow learners to use the sticky notes to explainthe diagram to others.

ExtensionDiscuss with learners again what works for themand apply these strategies to other diagrams.

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2:3–2:4 Hair structure and types

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Theme assessmentAsk learners to investigate another area of hairscience, such as the structure of keratin andpolypeptide chains, and explain their findings toyou.


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2:3–2:4 Hair structure and types


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Hair structure and typesInformation is often presented with diagrams to help explainit. The diagrams help you picture what you are reading about.You can also use them to help you remember what you havebeen reading about.

Focus

As you are reading, check for any referencesto diagrams that show what is being talkedabout.

The hair shaft is composed of a dead, hornyprotein material called keratin. The activelygrowing and therefore living part of the hair issituated below the surface of the skin at the baseof a minute pit (about 4 mm deep and 0.4 mmwide) known as the hair follicle (see Fig. 6.1).Look over the diagram to check that you

recognise what it is about. The title willhelp you.

Check that you know what each labelmeans.

● Look up specialist words in the glossary.● Find the same word or phrase in the text

and read the text around it. ● You may have to find other references to

it in the book by using the index.

Keep checking between the textand the diagram until you are clearwhat it is about. You may need to:

● read the text several times● read it aloud● explain it to somebody else● ask somebody else to

explain it to you.

Check that you know which part of thediagram goes with which label. Follow thelines carefully – they can be confusing.

Other things to help youremember:

● Look at a label, cover it, saywhat it is and then checkwhether you are right.

● Draw the diagram yourself,then check you have got itright – use colours todistinguish different parts.

Point ofhair

Surfaceof skin

Area ofhardeningand formationof keratin

Living partof hair

Hair root

Fig. 6.1 Section of a hair follicle

Hair shaft(dead keratin)

It can help to make a ‘mental picture’ of the diagram.

Look at the diagram closely.Close your eyes and try to seethe diagram in your mind’s eye.

Check you are right.


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Hair structure and typesYou will need The structure of skindiagram and text from the Sourcematerial, and a dictionary and glossary.

Task 1

1 What is the number of the diagram?

2 What is the title of the diagram?

3 In the title, what does the word‘structure’ mean?

a a buildingb the way something is constructed

or organisedc an organisation

4 What colour is used to show thearrector pili muscle?

a pinkb dark redc grey

5 What are the layers of the skin called?

a the dermis and epidermisb sebaceous gland and sweat glandc follicle and papilla

Task 2

1 Use The structure of the skin pagefrom the Source material to find outmore about the things shown on thediagram.

Task

Rt/E3.9Use a diagram to help you understand and remember written information.

The skin has many functions, includingprotection and temperature regulation. Itis made up of several layers and manydifferent parts: blood vessels, nerves,sweat and oil glands, hair follicles, andmuscles (see fig. 7.4).

Hair

Follicle

Sebaceousgland

Arrectorpili muscle

Papilla

Bloodsupply

Dermis

Epidermis

Sweatgland

Pore

2 Use some of the techniques from the focus page tohelp you understand what you are reading.

3 Try to picture the diagram in your mind’s eye.

4 Explain to a friend what you know about the structureof the skin.


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PAGES 2:5–2:6

Science and hair

Occupational settingWhilst hairdressing is essentially a practical andartistic occupation, it is necessary to understandthe science behind the various treatments inorder to avoid making mistakes. This scienceincludes knowledge of the structure of hair andskin, as well as the reactions of certain chemicalsupon them. This theme relates the science to thepractical and offers suggestions about taking notesfrom both written and verbal sources and exploresways of remembering information. The learningin this theme relates to many of the practicalunits in the Occupational Standards and tomaterials in the Habia Learning Support Pack forHairdressing.

MaterialsAudio equipment

Learning outcomes1 To consider strategies for writing down and

organising information whilst reading (focuspage, Tasks 1 and 2)

2 To consider strategies for writing down andorganising information whilst listening (focuspage, Task 3)

3 To consider strategies for rememberinginformation (focus page, Task 4)


■ Ask learners to share ways in which theyremember things they hear and read. Discussany existing strategies used, for example somepeople may ‘see’ the words; others willremember the actual words spoken. Oftenlearners associate what they hear with other,sometimes unrelated, things (e.g. somethingelse that happened in the salon, what someonewas wearing).

■ Discuss any note-making/taking strategieslearners already use and any difficulties theyexperience.

■ Emphasise the importance of finding a way ofmaking notes that suits the individual, bothwhen writing information down and whenretrieving the information later. Most learners,especially those who are dyslexic, will needguidance on how to find a suitable format formaking notes.

Focus page

■ Discuss the scenario at the top of the focuspage. What knowledge does a hairdresser needbefore doing a perm? (e.g. knowledge of hairtypes/structure, how perms work, PPE required,consultation information, testing information,etc.). How is this knowledge accumulated?(Books, training materials, listening to training,watching qualified hairdressers) How can thisknowledge be remembered?

Note-taking

■ Ask learners to write down a text message to‘send’ to another learner as if on a mobilephone. Other learners read the message aloud.Discuss the different ways of representingwords used, for example, combinations ofsymbols, shortened words, letters and numbersto represent words, etc. Point out the strategiesshown on the focus page.

■ You may want to pay particular attention tothe strategies of leaving out unnecessary wordsand using dashes, as these require a goodunderstanding of sentence structure.

■ You may want to focus on the most appropriateoccasions for using numbers, letters or bulletpoints in lists. For example, numbers areparticularly appropriate if things have to bedone in a certain order. It is a good idea to startwriting notes using a numbered list if theperson starts to say things like ‘first you needto …’.

■ Explain the importance of giving all notes aclear heading for quick reference.

■ ESOL learners may prefer to make notes intheir own language.

Ha

■ Dyslexic learners frequently have problemswith taking and making notes and will need alot of practice, or alternative strategies (e.g.recording training sessions, visualisingtechniques, spidergrams for notes, etc.) in orderto do this effectively.

■ It is not always possible to make notes, forinstance, when listening to training in thesalon. It is important that learners developtheir own strategies for rememberinginformation. Ask learners to make notes on thefocus page of useful techniques. Thesestrategies might be useful.– Link the first letter of each thing you have to

remember with the first letter of a nonsensephrase that you make up for yourself (e.g.Never Eat Shredded Wheat for the points ofthe compass, North, East, South, West). Ifyou can make them rhyme that might helptoo. Give examples of this for vitalinformation that should be remembered inhairdressing or spend some time with thegroup making up some new mnemonics.

– Say what you need to remember out loud.Repeat it as often as you can at differenttime intervals.

– Highlight/underline information in thebook/training material you are reading. Usecolour to code the information.

– Put the information you need to rememberto music. Try singing it!

– Walk around as you try to remembersomething. Associate each fact with adifferent place on your walk.

– Visualise what you have to remember as astory.

– Link the information to other things that arerelevant to you – people and places.

– Use several strategies at the same time.

Task 1

Replace words with abbreviations, numbers andsymbolsWt/L1.2Wt/L1.4

■ Discuss with learners when it is appropriate towrite in note form.

■ Confirm that abbreviating words is one strategythey can use when taking notes in training orwork settings.

■ Encourage learners to use different methods toshorten the highlighted text. Point out theRemember! box.

■ Encourage learners to draft work before writingit up, so that they can check their work.

If the learner has difficulty■ Learners might think that there is a ‘right way’

to do this – stress that they should useabbreviations, symbols and numbers that theycan understand.

■ Make sure learners understand the moredifficult words in the text (e.g. ‘linkages’).

■ Read back the notes to learners and askquestions to check they understand the notesthey made.

■ ESOL learners and some dyslexic learners maystruggle with this task, as it requires somephonic skills (2 – to) and an understandingthat, for example, ‘p’ is an appropriateabbreviation for ‘perm’ here because thecontext is given in the title, whereas in anothercontext it could be confused with any otherword beginning with ‘p’. These learners willrequire structured support to complete thistask. ESOL learners may prefer to abbreviateusing their own language.

■ Be prepared to read the text to learners whilstthey follow.

■ As well as structured support, dyslexic learnerswill need extra time to finish this task.

ExtensionAsk learners to compile a list of abbreviations(with their meanings) that they need for work.Learners can test each other on these.

Task 2

Rewrite notes, leaving out unnecessary words andusing dashes to link ideasWt/L2.2


185

2:5–2:6 Science and hair


Wt/L1.2 Unit G6 C1.3Wt/L2.2 Unit G7Wt/L1.4 Unit H7Wt/L2.4 Unit H9Wt/L1.5 Unit H10SLlr/L2.1 Unit H11Rw/L1.2 Unit H12

Unit H13Unit H14Unit H15Unit H18


■ Explain to learners that leaving outunnecessary words and using dashes to linkideas are strategies they can use when takingnotes in training or work settings.

■ Explain to learners the importance of writingnotes that are suitable for purpose (so that theycan understand them when they refer to themat a later stage).

■ Encourage learners to write the notes in theway they can understand them – only takingout words that do not change the meaning ofthe text for them. Point out the tips.

■ Encourage learners to draft work before writingit up, in case they make errors of fact.

If the learner has difficulty■ Learners might think that there is a ‘right way’

to do this – stress that the object is to makenotes they can read for themselves.

■ Go through the tips and make sure learnersunderstand how to do the task. Go throughone example with them from the task.

■ Make sure learners understand the moredifficult words.

■ Encourage learners to work through the textmethodically, a sentence at a time.

■ Some learners may need support to read backtheir notes, especially if they were produced ina hurry.

■ Read back the notes to learners and askquestions to check they can understand thenotes they made.

ExtensionAsk learners to make notes in the same way forany material in their own induction pack.

Task 3

Listen and make notes of details from a trainingsessionSLlr/L2.1Wt/L2.4

■ Encourage learners to look at the notepad to becompleted before listening to the audio clip ofthe hairdresser.

■ Explain the importance of picking out thedetails when listening to a training session, asthese illustrate the main point.

■ Remind learners to listen carefully for keywords and about the use of emphasis.

11

■ Learners might like to think about/predict thesorts of things they might be listening for.

■ Play the audio clip through once for gist, thenagain for learners to listen for the key wordsthey have chosen.

■ Remind learners to write the list as key wordsrather than in sentences. They can listen to theaudio clip again to confirm this.

If the learner has difficulty■ Some learners will have difficulty with

listening, comprehending and writingsimultaneously. Assist them to separate thetasks.

■ Explain to learners that they are listening outfor key points – the headings will help themdecide what to listen out for.

■ Replay the audio clip as many times asnecessary or read the script out, emphasisingthe words in bold.

■ Encourage learners to listen for emphasis, asthe important information is often emphasised(stressed).

■ Remind learners to write down just the keywords as a list.

■ Ask learners questions about what they heard.

■ ESOL learners may need support to understandsome aspects of the language or technicallanguage.

■ Learners might prefer to work in groups to pickout the details.

Extension■ Play the audio clip again; this time learners

decide on their own title and headings.

■ Remind learners that in reality they would notbe able to listen more than once. Ask learnersto role-play asking questions to ask foradditional information or to clarifyunderstanding.

Task 4

Listen to and make notes of instructions from atraining sessionWt/L2.4SLlr/L2.2

■ Remind learners of strategies discussed on thefocus page.

■ Remind learners that it doesn’t matter whatmethod they use, as long as it means theyremember the information.

186


Ha

If the learner has difficulty■ Discuss strategies learners have used in the past

and the effectiveness of these strategies.

■ Ask learners about their learning preferences inorder to find the most appropriate strategy.

■ Suggest one method (e.g. mnemonics) andassist learners to construct one based on theirown preferences. Try different methods.

ExtensionAsk learners to work out ways of rememberingother important information, such as the namesof clients, as well as necessary scientificinformation.

Theme assessmentLearners can work in small groups. One learnerdescribes a process or a product to the otherlearners. Listeners have to make notes using thetechniques used for these tasks. Listeners thenreport back the information from their notes.


187


Science and hair Focus

Is her hair suitable for perming? How do perms

affect the hair? What are the dangers?

Sometimes it isn’t convenient to makenotes. How else can you remember things?

Find a way that suits you best.

How perms work1. Softening – perm lotion opens & swells

cuticle scales (H&S).2. Moulding – perm lotion gets into

cortex – (disulphide bonds broken by

hydrogen) put in perm rods.

3. fixing – neutralising gets rid of

hydrogen (oxidation). New disulphide

bonds in new shape.

I’m fed up with straighthair. I’d love it to be

curly. What do you thinkabout perming it?

Well, there are severalthings we need to thinkabout before we start.

Perming lotion can benasty stuff so it’s

important to gown theclient properly and tomake sure you know

everything you need toknow about the client

before you start.

Right, so that’s towel first, thenchemical gown, another towel anda plastic cape over it all. How can

I remember that?

● How do you do hair @ home?● Had p. b4? ● Any p/colour on hair?

?perms ● Any prob areas?● Skin sensitive p. lotion?● On any medication?● Size curl?

Making notes is a good way ofremembering information.

You need to write informationdown in a way that you canread later.

● Find the strategies that suityou best.

● Only write down things youneed to remember.

● Organise notes in theclearest way for you. Forexample, use columns forthings you must and mustnot do, or a spidergram tonote down all the importantaspects of a topic, a mindmap to link ideas.

● Read notes through tocheck they make sense andare accurate.


188


189

Science and hair

Task 1

Rewrite the passage below, replacing the highlighted wordswith abbreviations, numbers or symbols. Use a separatepiece of paper.

Task 2

Now re-write the notes you made in Task 1,cutting them down further by leaving outunnecessary words and using dashes to linkpoints.

Task 4

Make up a way that will help youremember the five things about aclient’s hair that you need to takeinto account before you perm it.

● Length ● Condition● Density ● Style● Texture

Task 3

Listen to the hairdresser telling you about the factors that can influence a perm.

Use the headings to make notes about what is said.

Task

Wt/L1.2; Wt/L1.4; Wt/L2.2; Wt/L2.4; SLlr/L2.1; SLlr/L2.2Practise different strategies for making notesand remembering information.

Remember!

● Use symbols in placeof words

● Use abbreviations● To make

abbreviations, usethe first few letters ofthe word.

Tips

● Leave out unnecessary words.● Use numbers and letters.● Make a list.● Read your notes to yourself to make

sure they make sense. Replace anywords that you need to.

● Use the punctuation to help you seewhere to link points.11

Things that can influence a perm

Look at hair:1.2.3.4.5.Ask:Find out:

CHEMICAL ACTION DURING PERMING

During perming the hair can be wound on to rods or curlerseither before or after it is treated with perm lotion. Great careshould be taken when winding the hair on to rods or curlers ashair is very fragile during perming and can be easily broken.This is because perming lotion breaks some of the disulphidebonds in the polypeptide chains of the hair structure, leaving itweak. In alkaline perms, about twenty per cent of the linkagesare broken.


190

PAGES 2:7–2:8

Completing tests

Occupational settingMany instructions at work are given verbally.Often this requires the listener to assimilate a lotof information and rely on memory. It isimportant that learners practise ways of pickingout and remembering the jobs they need to do orthe actions they need to follow, by listeningcarefully, particularly to imperatives, both positiveand negative, such as ‘let’ or ‘don’t take’. Manytrainees have difficulty with this and it is one ofthe most reported problems with new entrants toemployment. This theme presents strategies andtechniques for careful listening.

Materials Materials on testing from the Habia LearningSupport Pack for Hairdressing will be useful tosupport these tasks

Audio equipment

Learning outcomes1 To use strategies for picking out relevant details

(focus page)

2 To listen for key words to pick out what shouldand should not be done (Tasks 1 and 2)

3 To recognise key sequence words ininstructions (focus page, Task 3)

4 To know how to clarify and confirmunderstanding (focus page)


■ Introduce the theme by giving learners somemuddled instructions about something relevantor interesting to them. These muddledinstructions should include a lot of irrelevantinformation (e.g. ‘By the way, did you see Xlast night?’), instructions in the wrong order(e.g. last instruction to say ‘And before youstart any of this …’), detail mixed in withspecific instructions (e.g. ‘Even if there isnobody around to help you and you are in ahurry, you still need to do the test …’).

■ Ask each learner what s/he picked up from theinstructions. Elicit the facts that they weren’tready for the instructions, didn’t know whowas to do what, had no opportunity to askquestions, etc.

■ Ask learners about their experiences ofreceiving instructions at work. Do they findthem easy to follow? Are they sometimes givenout in a hurry? What are the problems? (e.g.not hearing properly because of backgroundnoise, not paying attention). What are goodinstructions? What can go wrong if they don’tunderstand or follow work instructions?

Focus page

■ Work though the set of instructions,identifying the words that identify eachinstruction (imperatives), asking learners tounderline each one.

■ Work through the tactics in the boxes. Applythem to the instructions on the page by asking,How many instructions are there? Help learners touse the instruction words (imperatives) toidentify each instruction. Point out that the useof ‘and’ could mean two or more instructionsper sentence.

■ Next, ask learners to work through theinstructions and identify what they should notdo. What are the key words that signal thistype of instruction?

■ Ask learners to look for sequence words thatshow the order in which the instructionsshould be carried out. Ask learners to circlethese words in the instructions. Discuss othersequence words and time phrases; write theseon the board/flipchart (e.g. ‘before’, ‘finally’(sequence words) and ‘this morning’, ‘at theend of the day’ (time phrases).)

■ Look at the examples of self-questioning basedon the instructions on the page. How will thishelp the listener establish exactly what to do?

■ Discuss what is meant by being an ‘activelistener’ and why this is important. You mayneed to introduce the term ‘body language’ anddemonstrate what this means. This is a usefulfocus for some role-play on active listening:

12

Ha

one person talks or asks questions, the othergives no feedback, either verbally or in bodylanguage. Note: some dyslexic learners may bereluctant to role-play.

■ Listen to the audio clip of the instructions onthe page and model asking relevant questionsto confirm and clarify understanding (e.g. Didyou say a mixture of hydrogen peroxide andammonium hydroxide? What did you say happens if the hair already contains metalliccompounds?). Model making brief notes of theinstructions in a way that helps learners toremember them. For example, using numbers,bullet points, mind maps, thinking through thetask, etc.

Task 1

Listen to a set of instructions and pick out thethings you must doSLlr/L1.2

■ Look at the tip on the page. Explain to learnersthat they are listening out for positiveinstructions (i.e. things you are being asked todo). Warn learners that the audio clip is quitelong and set the scene before playing it.

■ You may want to spend some time thinkingabout the different ways that this type ofinstruction can be given (e.g. ‘make sure’, ‘dothis’, ‘clear the …’, ‘you should/must …’, andso on). Confirm that instructions can beframed in a number of different ways and it isimportant to recognise these as instructions(i.e. telling you what to do).

■ Play the audio clip through once for gist.

■ Play the audio clip again. This time learnerslisten for the instruction words that signalwhat they must do. (Remind them of theexercise on the focus page where theyunderlined all of the key instruction words.)

13


SLlr/L1.1 Unit G5 C1.1SLlr/L1.2 Unit H13SLlr/L1.3 Unit H15SLlr/L1.4SLlr/L2.2SLc/L1.1SLc/L1.2SLc/L1.3SLc/L1.4

Learners should make a note of theseinstructions.

■ Replay the audio clip, so learners can make anote of their answers on the page.

If the learner has difficulty■ Learners may have difficulty in identifying the

actual instructions. Before playing the audioclip, give the learner the key action wordswritten on cards or sticky notes (mix, clean,apply, cover, ask).

■ Play the audio clip, pausing at each instructionword. Point this out to learners.

■ Play the audio clip as many times as requiredfor the learner to pick out four instructions andnote them down.

■ Remind learners that they are listening forthings that require action – what they must do(not what they must not do).

■ For learners who require more structure, putthe instructions on cards or in a list. Asklearners to tick the instructions as they hearthem.

■ ESOL learners might benefit from checking keyvocabulary such as ‘discomfort’ and ‘ignore’.Phrases such as ‘a couple of days’ may requireextra explanation.

■ Learners who find this task overwhelming maystart with the text in front of them andhighlight key words and phrases.

Extension■ Ask learners to prepare a similar script for other

learners to listen to, based on their ownexperience.

■ Listeners should make a note of any questionsthey might want to ask to clarify theinstructions.

Task 2

Listen to the same instructions and pick out thethings you must not doSLlr/L1.2

■ This task relies on learners having correctresponses to the previous task.

■ Replay the audio clip. Point out the tip –learners can use these key words to identify thethings that must not be done.

■ Replay the audio clip so that learners can listenagain and note down their answers.

13


191

2:7–2:8 Completing tests


If the learner has difficulty■ Learners may have difficulty identifying the

negative instructions. Point out the tip againand play the audio clip, pausing each time anegative instruction occurs.

■ ESOL learners may have difficulty with theterm ‘do not’, especially as this occurs incontracted form (don’t).

ExtensionPractise this skill in workplace situations, whereinstructions are given. Learners should practisemaking notes of instructions, perhaps in columnsof ‘dos’ and ‘don’ts’. Put the negative instructionsonto cards or in a list. Ask learners to tick whenthey hear the correct instruction.

Task 3

Listen to some instructions and number them inthe order they should be followedSLlr/L1.2

■ Explain to learners that they need to listen outfor the sequence words to help them decide onthe correct order.

■ Explain that they should write the numbers1–5 in front of the instructions. They shouldwrite in pencil in case they want to changetheir minds.

■ Explain that they will be able to listen to theaudio clip several times to check the order.

■ Play the audio clip through once for gist. Thisis a complex set of instructions and learnerswill benefit from getting a good overview ofwhat is happening. Allow them to discuss thisif needed.

■ Play the audio clip again, listening for thesequence words/phrases (learners might jotthese down).

■ Play the audio clip again for learners to numberthe instructions, then again to check the order.

■ Check that vocabulary such as ‘inflammation’is understood.

■ Dyslexic learners may need extra time tocomplete this task.

If the learner has difficulty■ This task requires good listening skills; some

learners may have difficulty retaining theinformation or following it all the waythrough. Read the script aloud sentence bysentence, pausing after each for learners to

13

identify the key words. Repeat this as manytimes as learners require. Learners may prefer tounderline/highlight the instruction wordsshown on the page first and listen for these(e.g. ‘ask’, ‘clean’, ‘mix up’). They can thenlisten again to connect the action word withthe key order word.

■ Some learners may have difficulty identifyingthe sequence words. Write these down for thelearner in the order they occur (first, next,when you’ve done that, when it’s dry, finally).Play the audio clip, pausing at each of thesewords.

ExtensionAsk learners to make up some instructions thatmust be done in a particular order for a task thatthey are familiar with and try them out on acolleague.

Theme assessmentAsk learners to give a set of instructions to apartner verbally, putting the instructions in orderand emphasising key words, including sequencewords and ‘do’ and ‘do not’ instructions. Thepartner makes notes from the instructions, andcan ask questions to confirm information orcheck understanding. Swop roles so that eachlearner gets a chance to listen to the instructions.

192

2:7–2:8 Completing tests


193

Completing testsYou need to listen to instructions carefully so that you canfollow them properly and do your job better.

Focus

Look at the speaker.Concentrate on what thespeaker is saying.

Listen for the keyinstruction words.

Keep a notepad to jot downwhat you have to do.

Repeat instructions inyour own words to checkyou have understoodproperly.

‘So you’re saying that …’

Ask questions to help youunderstand.

● ‘Can I just check that …?’● ‘Can you tell me what

you meant by …?’● ‘Please could you repeat

the part about …?’

Listen for:

● key words about what todo and what not to do.

● words that tell you aboutthe order in which to dothings, such as ‘first’,‘next’, ‘then’, ‘after’.

Excuse me, Sarah. I’d like to use your head to explain to Gemma about the tests we do on your

hair before we perm it. Is that OK with you?Perm lotions used on the hair may react with otherchemicals that’ve already been used – for example

in home-use products. If you think the hair has already been treated withother chemicals – for instance if it looks dull – ask

the client what products she uses at home and then do an incompatibility test so you’re sure that the

perm solution isn’t going to react with any chemicalsthat may already be on the hair, and

cause damage.Right, the test. First of all, always make sure you

protect your hands by wearing gloves. Next, place asmall cutting of the client’s hair in a mixture of

hydrogen peroxide and ammonium hydroxide.Watch out for any bubbling, heating or discoloration.If any of these things happen, it means that the hairalready contains metallic compounds and shouldn’t

be permed. Don’t tint it or bleach it either.

12What are theinstructions

about?

Is there any particular order I need

to do things in?

What have I gotto do first?

Is there anything that I should only do if something else happens?

What have Igot to do?

Is there anything I must

not do?

What questionscan I ask to make

it clearer?


194

Completing tests

Task 1

Listen to the trainer talking to a trainee. Make a note of fourthings that must be done when doing a skin test.

DO:

1

2

3

4

Task 2

Listen to the trainer again. This time, make a note of twothings that must not be done.

DO NOT:

1

2

Task

SLlr/L1.2Listen carefully to spoken instructions.

13

13

13

Task 3

Listen to the trainer again.

Number the instructions in the order in whichthey have to be followed.

Ask the client to keep an eye on the patch fora couple of days

Clean a small area of skin about 8 mm squarebehind the ear or in the fold of the arm.

Mix up a little of the tint that you are goingto use.

Cover the patch with collodion if the tintmanufacturer’s instructions say you can.

Apply a little of the tint mixture to the skin.

Tip Listen out for wordslike ‘always’, ‘makesure’ and ‘don’tforget’.

Tip Listen out for wordslike ‘don’t’, ‘mustn’t’and ‘never’.


195

PAGES 2:9–2:10

The pH scale

Occupational settingUnderstanding pH is an important aspect ofhairdressing but learners may find this daunting.Learners must understand the basic science andthe language that underpins the vocationalknowledge and they need to be able to interpretthe pH scale. The learning in this theme can beapplied to many aspects of hairdressingparticularly where products are used and applied.

Materials Bottle-shaped cut-outs to represent products withdifferent pH values shown as whole numbers anddecimals to one decimal place

Salon products

Litmus paper and colour code chart (ensurehealth and safety procedures are followed)

Learning outcomes1 Investigate the pH of products and the effect

on the hair cuticle (focus page, Tasks 1 and 2)

2 Compare and order whole numbers anddecimals to one decimal place (focus page, Task 1)

3 Interpret information (focus page, Task 1)


■ Show learners a range of products displayingpH values. Ask them to find the informationand if they know what it means. Put responseson the board/flipchart.

■ Check that learners understanding the terms‘acid’ and ‘alkali’.

■ Ask learners if they know of any instanceswhen using too strong a hair product hasadversely affected the result. Discuss theconsequences of using products that are tooharsh for the hair.

■ Point out that all hair products are acidic,alkaline or neutral. Hairdressers must avoidusing acids or alkalis that are too strong for thehair since both will cause damage (not just theacids).

■ Draw the pH scale (0–14) on the board/flipchart or project onto a white board. Explainthat products can be placed on this scale toshow how weak or strong an acid or alkali it is.All values below 7 are acids; all above 7 arealkalis. (Help learners to remember this bypointing out that acid is a small word and thenumbers less than 7 are small numbers. Alkaliis a larger word and the numbers above 7 arelarger numbers.)

■ Call out whole numbers between 0 and 14(except for 7) and ask learners to say whethereach pH value is acid or alkali.

■ Now call out the number 7. Learners shouldsay that it isn’t on either side of the scalebecause it is the halfway point. Confirm thatthis is correct and 7 means that a product isneither acid nor alkali; it is neutral. Defineneutral. Write ‘neutral’ above 7 on the scale.Pure water has a pH of 7.

■ Point out that the scale also tells you thestrength of the acid or alkali. Explain and usethe board/flipchart to demonstrate that thecloser acidic values are to 7 (neutral), theweaker they are. The further acids are from 7(i.e. nearer 1), the stronger they are. Similarly,the closer alkali values are to 7 (neutral), theweaker they are. The further from 7, thestronger they are.

■ Check learners’ understanding by askingquestions: Which pH would be more acidic – aproduct with a pH of 4 or a product with a pH of5? Which is more alkaline – a product with a pHof 12 or a product with a pH of 13?, etc. Thelanguage of comparison is important here.Check learners are confident with it.

■ Now ask which pH value would indicate theweakest acid. Expect the answer pH 6 becauseonly whole numbers have been usedpreviously. Explain that pH is often expressedas a decimal to one decimal place. To check


learners’ understanding of this, give pairs orgroups of learners examples on cards to sortinto order. Ask whether a pH of 6.1 would beweaker or stronger than a pH of 6.5. How abouta pH of 6.9?

■ Return to the labels/products shown earlier orhave some labelled bottle-shaped cut-outs torepresent products with different pH values,some with whole numbers, some with numbersto one decimal place. Ask learners to positionthem on the scale.

■ If learners appear to be struggling with theconcept of comparing and ordering decimals,offer additional support as necessary. Skills forLife numeracy materials (Entry 3 Units 2 and 4)may be useful.

■ Note: some products are described as ‘pHbalanced’. Discuss with learners what thismeans and make sure they are clear that thisrefers to the product being balanced to thenatural pH of hair (between 4.5 and 5.5). Itdoes not mean that the product is neutral pH.

Focus page

■ Read through the focus page together.

■ Look in detail at the effects (desirable and non-desirable) that different strength acids andalkalis have on hair.

■ Discuss why extra care should be taken whenapplying products with high and low pHvalues.

■ Ask which is better for the hair – a mild acid ora mild alkali. Ask why this might be. (Mild acidis better for the hair than a mild alkali becausehair is mildly acidic (pH 4.5–5.5).)

■ Ask if a strong acid is better or worse for thehair than a strong alkali. Point out that acidsand alkalis that are too strong for the hairshould both be avoided since they will bothcause damage.

Task 1

Interpret pH values in terms of their effect on hairN2/L1.4


N2/E3.3 Unit H9 N/AHD1/E3.1

■ Point out that the ingredients of hair productsvary to suit different hair conditions and toachieve different effects.

■ Remind learners that weak alkalis open thecuticle, allowing products to enter the cortex.Weak acids close the cuticle.

If the learner has difficulty■ Check learners’ understanding of the scale by

asking questions. If there is still some doubt,revisit the focus page and talk through thelearning points. Identify any areas where theremay be difficulty – this may relate to thelanguage, the numbers or to the organisationof the scale itself.

■ Support learners who are having difficulty withthe language to interpret words such as neutral,acid and alkali. Simple experiments usinglitmus paper and hair products will supportthis understanding. Encourage learners to keepa personal glossary.

■ Learners who are unable to interpret the scalemay require additional support with decimalsas described in the focus activities. Give plentyof practice of sorting decimals into order usingcards or sticky notes. Offer additional supportwhere needed.

■ Some learners will be confused by the fact thatthe lower (lesser or smaller) the pH value, themore acidic the product will be. This could becompared to a temperature gauge, where alower reading implies colder temperature.

■ Use the cards and an enlarged version of thescale to help learners sort items onto the pHscale.

■ Learners who find the amount of informationon the focus page too overwhelming may use asimplified version and build up theinformation using graphics as they increasetheir understanding.

ExtensionAsk learners to find a range of product labels andsort them into order by pH.

Task 2

Find the pH values of a range of products andinterpret their effect on hairN2/L1.4

196

2:9–2:10 The pH scale

Ha

■ You will need a variety of salon products totest, a supply of litmus paper and a litmuscolour chart to read off the pH value for eachtest.

■ Advise learners that some products show pH onthe label or on product data sheets. There isalso a simple test that can be performed onproducts to check the pH using litmus paper.On contact with acids, litmus paper changescolour through shades of yellow, orange andred, indicating the strength of acid present.Similarly, it changes through various shades ofblue to violet to indicate the strength of alkalipresent. Green indicates neutral.

■ Demonstrate how to carry out a test usinglitmus paper.

■ Before learners carry out any tests, ensure thatthey are aware of the health and safetyprocedures that must be adhered to.

■ Encourage learners to think about the effect ofthe product on the cuticle. Remind them thatweak alkalis open the cuticle, allowing productsto enter the cortex. Weak acids close thecuticle.

■ Complete the first row of the table withlearners, demonstrating on an OHT ifnecessary. Remind learners to write in theactual product name in the first column. Youmay want to provide learners with aphotocopied and enlarged version of the tableso that they have more room to write.

If the learner has difficulty■ As above, it is important to identify the source

of difficulty. It may relate to the language ofthe task, the numbers used on the pH scale orunderstanding the purpose of the activity.Make sure learners understand the reason forthe activity.

■ Learners who have visual difficulties may bechallenged by this task and will need supportto interpret the shades of colour.

ExtensionPredict and then test the pH value (acidity oralkalinity) of other products such as pre-chemicaland post-chemical conditioners.

Theme assessmentAsk learners to investigate the pH value of therange of shampoos, conditioners and chemicaltreatments used in their own salon.


197

2:9–2:10 The pH scale


198

The pH scaleHairdressing preparations are measured on the pH scale to showhow acidic or alkaline they are. This is important because hair reactsdifferently to acids and alkalis. Understanding the pH scale helpsyou to understand how different products affect hair and skin.

Very strongacids destroy

hair.Hair feels harsh

and stringy.

Weak acidsclose the cuticle.Hair feels smoothand looks shiny.

Weak alkalisopen the cuticle.

Products entercortex. Hair feels

rough.

Focus

● The pH scale starts at 0 and goes to 14.● All the numbers less than 7 are acids. All the numbers more than 7 are alkalis.● 7 is the halfway point between 0 and 14. It is neither acid nor alkali. It is neutral.● The further away the number is from neutral (pH 7), the stronger the acid or alkali.

Take extra carewith products that have

low pH numbers. Take extra carewith products withhigh pH numbers.

pH 3 and pH 5.5 are both less than 7.Therefore they are both acidic.

pH 3 is a stronger acid than pH 5.5.

So in its naturalstate, hair isslightly acidic.

0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14

Very strongalkalis

act as hairremover.

Hair becomes like jelly anddisintegrates.

pH 5.5

ConditionerMoisturising

pH 3 pH 5.5

pH 5.5–6.9Acid perms

Skin and hair in best condition has a

pH of 4.5–5.5.

pH 8–10Alkali permsand colours

Acids Neutral AlkalisVery strong acid Weak acid Weak alkali Very strong alkali


199

The pH scaleThe ingredients of hair products vary to suit different hairconditions and to achieve different effects.

Task 1

Tick (✓) the products that open the cuticle. Put a cross (✗) by the products that close the cuticle.

Task

N2/L1.4Investigate the pH of products and the effect on the hair cuticle.

Task 2

Investigate salon hair products. Find out:● the hair type or condition that the product

is recommended for● the pH value ● the effect on the cuticle.

Complete the table to show your findings.

Remember!

● Weak alkalis open the cuticle, allowingproducts to enter the cortex.

● Weak acids close the cuticle.

Product Hair type or condition it is pH value Effect onrecommended for the cuticle

Shampoo

Conditioner

Pre-perm shampoo

Acid perm

Alkaline perm

Neutralising product

Temporary colour

Permanent colour

1 2 3 4

Semi-permanent

colourpH 8

ANTI-OXYCONDITIONER

pH 3

AlmondSHAMPOO

pH 5

SOAPLESSclarifyingSHAMPOO

pH 7.1


200

PAGES 2:11–2:12

Product knowledge

Occupational settingAdvising clients relies on a good knowledge ofwhat is available, in order to match products andservices to clients’ requirements. Acquiring thisknowledge is an on-going process, as products arealways being updated.

This theme introduces a variety of ways in whichproduct knowledge can be updated and raisesawareness of methods of researching, noting andstoring information in order to enhance personalproduct knowledge. This relates particularly togaining information that can be passed on toclients. This theme has applications for use withthe Habia Learning Support Pack for Hairdressing:Unit G6 – ‘Promote additional products orservices to clients’ and Unit G7 – ‘Advise andconsult with clients’. It is also highly relevant tothe themes ‘Client consultation’ and ‘Advisingclients’ in this module, and ‘Dealing withenquiries’ in Module 1.

Materials Examples of the following from the workplace ortraining materials:– specialist magazines that give product updates

and other features – training books– service and product price lists– a range of product labels

Source material:– Hair by Rhia price list (0:06)– Hair care products price list (0:08)– KK’s Salon price list (0:14)– Contents page (0:24)– Product labels (0:25)

Internet access

Learning outcomes1 To understand and use different methods of

finding out information (focus page, Tasks 1–3)

2 To use format and structure to locateinformation (focus page, Tasks 1–3)

3 To use different reading strategies to findinformation quickly (focus page, Tasks 1–3)


■ Ask learners to think of ways of finding outabout a product. Give them specific things tothink about, such as price, how to use it, whatit does, how effective it is, what other productsthere are in the same range. Discuss as manyalternatives as possible.

■ Ask learners why it is important for them toknow what products are available. Write theirideas on the board/flipchart.

Focus page

■ Read the introduction as a link between theintroductory discussion and the focus page.

■ Go through the first six ideas on the focus pagein green boxes, starting with training materialsand working clockwise. These are all to do withreading information. Add extra information asfollows.– Training materials. Discuss ways of

organising information and handouts infolders, such as using dividers to arrangeinformation into topics. Learners mightthink of key topic areas. If they already haveorganised folders, get them to check howthese have been divided as a reminder andsuggest they add notes to these as they learnmore.

– Internet. Discuss Internet search engines.Ask learners to think of some key words thatthey could use to find specific productinformation or techniques. If possible,demonstrate this on a computer. Point outthat the information on websites varies andmay need double checking.

– Many product labels will include thecompany’s website address. Demonstrate tolearners how to type the website address intoan Internet browser in order to visit the site.Remind them of the importance of accuracy.If they do not get to the site they want,check that they have entered the websiteaddress correctly.

Ha

– Specialist magazines. Ask groups of learnersto each have a look at a different magazineand make a note of the main articles itcontains. Ask learners to find the featurespage, which tells them what is in themagazine. Discuss the layout of this pageand give learners practice in finding pagesfor given topics or articles.

– Product labels and instruction leaflets.Look at examples of product labels from theSource material and salon products.Compare the layout and the informationthey give. Point out the use of subheadings,especially where they are worded differentlybut mean the same thing, such as‘directions’ and ‘to use’. Note addresses,telephone numbers and website information,and explain that this tells you where you canget more information on the product.

– Specialist books. Show learners examples ofbooks used as training materials such as forNVQs. Explain the information given in thecontents page (chapter headings in the orderthey appear in the book together with thepage number on which the chapter starts). Ifthere is a glossary, explain what this is andlook at examples. Point out that this is inalphabetical order. Give learners some wordsto search for as practice. Explain what theindex is and where it can be found. Pointout that this is also in alphabetical order sothat you find things quickly and easily. Itshows on which pages a particular topicappears throughout the book. Give anexample of a topic that has two or threepage references with commas in betweenand ask learners to find the key words onthose pages. Point out where a topic includesa number of pages in succession. Ask learnersto find the page references for a particulartopic. For example, hair growth rate could befound by looking under ‘hair’ first and thenlooking under that topic heading for‘growth’ or by looking for ‘growth of hair’.Point out that it will also probably appearunder ‘growth’ in an earlier page of theindex. Discuss situations in which lookingfor a word in an index might be quickerthan looking for a chapter in the contents.

– Price lists. Give examples of price lists (oruse the three from the Source material). Lookat the way they are set out. Give learnerspractice in finding the prices of particularproducts or services. Ask learners about the

strategies they used to help them (forexample, using a ruler to line up theinformation).

■ Point out the tips for reading information andexplain to learners that in all the activities theyhave done so far they have been scanning forwords. Remind learners that the more theyknow about a product or service, the betterthey can inform the client.

■ Introduce the next four points in orange boxeson the page, explaining that these are thingsthey can listen for or observe at work.

■ Read through each section and ask learners toshare any note-taking strategies. Look at someabbreviations they might use for products,techniques and styles.

■ Point out the Tips for listening and observingand explain that any notes they make shouldbe filed safely for future reference. Note makingmay also serve as a memory aid and will helpto build their knowledge.

■ Discuss formal and informal ways of askingother people for comments (a formal waymight be a short questionnaire). Remindlearners that other people’s opinions are notnecessarily facts, however, so they should makesure they state these to clients as opinions. Thisapplies to their own opinions in trying outproducts too.

■ Discuss the question by the trainee on thefocus page. Go through the ten surroundingpoints again quickly, deciding on whether thetrainee is likely to find the information fromthese sources. Choose the most useful sources.

■ Explain that although learners will gainknowledge with experience, new products arealways on the market and all stylists need tokeep their product knowledge up to date.


201

2:11–2:12 Product knowledge


Rt/L2.5 Unit G6Rt/L2.6 Unit G7Rt/L2.7Wt/L1.5


Task 1

Use different formats to locate informationquicklyRt/L2.5Rt/L2.6Rt/L2.7

■ Make sure learners each have a copy of theContents page from the Source material.

■ Read through the three parts to the task,indicating which materials to use andreminding learners to write in the spaces onthe page.

■ Point out the key words shown in bold, whichshould help them to locate the information orrelevant section.

■ Remind learners briefly how to navigate thecontent and index pages.

If the learner has difficulty■ Remind learners how to scan for the key

word(s) and to look across for the page number,using a finger or straight edge if necessary.Check ESOL learners’ understanding of the keywords.

■ Go through the first question together slowlyby way of a demonstration.

■ Encourage learners to read (or listen to) thewhole question again once they have locatedthe key words.

■ The writing in an index can be quite small andlearners may require an enlarged version.

■ Ask direct questions about the information tocheck learners understand what they arereading, especially where the question syntaxdiffers from the written information in themagazines.

ExtensionAsk learners to find out and make a note of anyregular features contained in specialist hairmagazines at their workplaces. This will helpthem know what specific information they canget from the magazines in the future.

Task 2

Use a website to find informationRt/L2.5Rt/L2.6Rt/L2.7

■ Read through tips about searching on theInternet.

■ Check learners are clear about what productname they are looking for.

■ Remind learners to ask for help if they getstuck.

■ Explain that they can write their answers onthe page if there is room.

■ If there are not enough computers for learnersto work on either individually or in pairs, theycan work in groups or as a large group if this isthe only option. If it is more practical, half thegroup could do task 3 while the other half doestask 2 and then swop.

If the learner has difficulty■ Learners may need further support in each

stage of the navigation, especially if they lackcomputer skills or have problems copying thespelling of the product name.

■ If appropriate, demonstrate how to do a similarsearch first so learners can make notes on howto do it.

■ Learners may need guidance in selectinginformation that is useful to clients. Asklearners questions about the information forguidance.

ExtensionAsk learners to find information on otherproducts for specific hair types or problems thatare common to their own clientele.

Task 3

Find information at workRt/L2.5Rt/L2.6Rt/L2.7

■ Check that learners have a copy of the Productlabels from the Source material.

■ Point out the tip and remind learners to usethe subheadings on the labels to help themlocate the information.

■ Point out that the key words they are searchingfor are written in bold in the questions.

■ Remind learners that ‘to use’ means the sameas ‘directions’. This section gives informationon how to use the product.

■ Explain that they can write their answers onthe page if there is room. Otherwise theyshould write them on a separate piece of paper.

202


Ha

If the learner has difficulty■ Support learners in searching the labels one at

a time for the key words in bold. They canunderline or highlight the information whenthey find it.

■ Make sure they record the correct product titlefor questions 1 and 4.

■ For question 2, remind learners that theproduct labels they looked at earlier gave thecompany addresses, telephone numbers and/orwebsites for more information. They should belooking out for these things in the exampleproduct labels.

■ For question 3, suggest that learners write just‘yes’ or ‘no’ in answer to the question whenthey find the information.

■ Learners may need support in reading theinformation once they have located it,especially where the syntax used differs fromthat of the question. If necessary, reword thequestion to help them.

Extension■ Ask learners to note down and then try to learn

the directions for use for one or more of theproducts.

■ They can test each other on how much theycan remember. (This is practice of rememberinginformation to pass on to clients.)

Theme assessmentAsk learners to research information on a hairproduct that is sold in their salon, using the ideassuggested on the focus page as appropriate. Theyshould make notes to share with others coveringas many of the following points as possible:– the name of the product– what it is used for– the sizes it comes in– the cost to the client– the main ingredients– how effective it is– what clients who have tried it think of it– any other useful information.


203



204

Tips for reading information

● Use the layout to help you find the topic quickly.

● Scan the text for a key word or words.

Product knowledgeIn order to advise clients, you need a good knowledge ofwhat is available so that you can match products or servicesto the client’s needs and requirements. Here are some ideasabout where you might find out about products or services.

Focus

Tips for listening and observing

Keep a notebook handy to jotdown things as a reminder.

Where can I find out if this hot oiltreatment works?

Training materials willteach you aboutproducts and services.

Organise theinformation so that youcan find it quickly.

Specialist magazinesoften contain advertsand articles about newproducts on the market.Look at the featurespage to see what’s new.

Product labels andinstruction leafletsinclude directions anddetails of where to getmore information.

To find informationquickly in specialistbooks, check thecontents list or searchfor the topic in theindex.

Listen to and observeexperienced staff. Keep anote of useful tips.

Customer price andservice lists are usefulas a quick way offinding out the price ofa particular product ortime needed for aservice.

You can find all sorts ofinformation on the Internetusing a search engine. Type in akey word to narrow your search.

Try out productsyourself so that youcan pass on yourexperience to clients.Keep a note of whatyou’ve tried and whatyou did or did not like.

Other people’sexperiences are usefulto know. You could dosome market researchon clients, friends orcolleagues.

Master classdemonstrations showas well as tell you abouthow to use a product.Make notes to remindyou of what to do.


205

Product knowledge

Task 1

1 Use the Contents page from the Source material to answer these questions.

a On what page does the chapter on Salon reception start?

b What is chapter 11 about?

c On what page is the glossary?

2 Use the Index in your text book to answer these questions.

a On which pages will you find information about moisturisers?

b On which pages will you find out about the chemical properties of hair?

c On which page will you find information about head massage?

3 Find the following information in a hair magazine you have at work:

a the names of two hair care products

b what the two products are used for

product 1 used for

product 2 used for

c the website address for the company that makes or sells one of the products

Task 2

Use the Internet to find the website of one of the products you found for Task 1, part 3. Find out:

1 the main ingredients of the product

2 any other information about the product that might be useful for the client.

Task 3

Use information from the Product labels in the Source material to answer these questions.

1 Which product is designed to add moisture to hair?

2 What can you do to get more advice on the ‘Smoothshine’ product?

3 Can you use the mousse on dry hair?

4 Which product should you rinse off?

Task

Rt/L2.5; Rt/L2.6; Rt/L2.7Find product information from different sources.

Tip

Search for key words ornumbers on the page.

Internet search tips

● Type the product nameinto the search engine.

● Find the product name inthe list of web pages andclick on the site.

● Scan the page for theproduct name.

● Look for the keyinformation.

Tips

● Think about which sectionwill contain theinformation.

● Search for the key wordsin that section.


206

PAGES 2:13–2:14

Advising clients

Occupational settingGood communication skills are vital to ensurethat clients receive a full and comprehensiveexplanation of services and treatments. Thisincludes making sure the client understands andagrees to a service or treatment before it is carriedout. Giving advice requires confidence, especiallywith clients who know what they want. However,these clients may not be aware that what they askfor will not have the result they want or is simplynot possible. This theme gives strategies anduseful phrases for giving advice clearly, positivelyand precisely, taking into account clients’ needsand expectations. This theme relates closely to thetheme ‘Client consultation’ at the beginning ofthis module. It has applications for use with theHabia Learning Support Pack for Hairdressing: Level 2, unit G7 – ‘Advise and consult withclients’.

Materials Pictures of different hair styles from books andmagazines

Source material:– Information cards (0:26)– Advice cards (0:27)– Situation cards (0:28)

Audio equipment

Learning outcomes1 To listen to and identify client’s needs or

expectations (focus page, Task 2)

2 To give advice using clear and appropriatelanguage (focus page, Tasks 1–3)

3 To give accurate and precise information (focuspage, Tasks 1–3)

4 To support suggestions (focus page, Tasks 1 and 3)

5 To be positive, helpful and reassuring (focuspage, Tasks 1–3)


■ This theme concentrates mainly on advisingclients about hairstyles, but the checklist onthe focus page can also be applied to advisingclients on other services or treatments. Traineesshould only give advice when they have gainedthe necessary knowledge. The cards from theSource material provide the informationnecessary for the activities in this theme.

■ Ask learners if they have ever had a haircutthat they really didn’t like. Ask them todescribe it and how they reacted. Did thehairdresser try to copy a style they asked for,advise them about a style or a mixture of thetwo?

■ Give learners pictures of hairstyles frommagazines or books and ask them to pick astyle they like. Ask what they like about it andwhether they think it would suit them. Wouldit suit the person sitting next to them? If not,why not? Did they choose it for the style orbecause it really suits the model?

■ Explain that some clients can be quite definiteabout a particular style they want, but it mightnot be possible and they are unlikely to end uplooking like the picture or person they arehoping to copy.

■ Demonstrate good practice by advising avolunteer about how a style they chose couldbe adapted to suit him/her. Use pictures and/ora demonstration to support this.

■ Ask learners how the advice took the person’schosen style into consideration and whetherthe suggested changes were persuasive.

■ Explain that is important to listen to a client’swishes but also to be realistic about what canbe achieved. For example, you cannot make aclient look like a model just by a hairstyle, butyou can advise them on a style that brings outthe best in their own features. It is then up tothe client whether they accept the advice.

Ha

Focus page

■ Look at the situation with the client and stylist.Discuss learners’ experiences of this type ofsituation, either as a client themselves or as atrainee.

■ Discuss what might happen if the stylist wentahead with the style without advising theclient.

■ Read through the checklist and discuss anyexamples that came up in your earlierdemonstration.

■ Point out that listening carefully means pickingout what the client wants. Repeating theinformation back to the client is a useful wayto clarify or show that you have understood.

■ Discuss the meaning of precise and accurateinformation and avoiding jargon and why it isimportant that the client understands what yousay.

■ Explain the meaning of being sensitive. Giveexamples of insensitive comments such as‘Your face is too large for that style,’ or ‘It looksgood on her but it won’t on you.’ ESOLlearners will need plenty of practice with this.

■ Discuss some useful phrases for offeringsuggestions and alternatives, for example,‘Have you thought of ...?’, ‘What about if we …?’ Emphasise the importance of suggestingthings to the client rather than telling themwhat to do. This allows the client to make thechoice.

■ Give examples of positive and helpfulcomments, emphasising how this reassures theclient. For example, ‘If I layer it, it will give thestyle more softness and you’ll find it easier toblow dry yourself.’ Learners’ knowledge ofstyles may be limited at this point, but explainthat this comes with training and experience.ESOL learners will need a lot of practice in thelanguage used for suggestions and possibilities(e.g. ‘We could ...’) and hypothetical language(e.g. ‘If we … it would …’).

■ Explain how visual aids are better than justtrying to describe something in words inhelping clients to visualise the style ortreatment. It helps to support the advice andallows the client to picture the finished result.

■ Emphasise the importance of getting theclient’s agreement before going ahead with theservice or treatment. Ask learners to considerthe possible result of not doing this.

14 ■ Read the stylist’s reply to the client and discussthis in relation to the relevant Information andAdvice cards from the Source material.

■ Go through the checklist, applying it to thestylist’s advice.

■ Play the audio of another client’s requestthrough once for gist. Ask learners to listenagain and note down what the client asks for.

■ Give learners the relevant Information andAdvice cards for a low forehead and protrudingchin. Ask them to discuss how they think thestyle the client asked for in the audio clipmight be adapted to suit these features better.

■ As a whole group, devise a response thatadvises the client in an appropriate way, usingthe checklist as a guide.

■ Point out the Remember! box.

Task 1

Choose the most appropriate language foradvising a client SLlr/L2.4SLc/L2.1SLd/L2.5

■ Read through the instructions.

■ Remind learners of what positive languagemeans and suggest that they look out forexamples of this in the explanations.

■ Allow learners to work in pairs if they prefer.

If the learner has difficulty■ Question 1 Read the options aloud and ask

which is most difficult to understand. This willeliminate one choice because of the languageused – the client would not understand iteither.

■ Read the two that are left again and asklearners to find and underline any negativewords or descriptions – telling the client whatcan’t be done or that there is something wrongwith her hair, for example ‘can’t perm it’ and‘bad condition’. Eliminate this choice becauseit is not polite or positive.


SLlr/L1.1 Unit G7 C2.1bSLlr/L2.4SLc/L2.1SLd/L2.4SLd/L2.5


207

2:13–2:14 Advising clients


■ Read the remaining option and ask learners topick out positive words and descriptions in thescript (‘special’, ‘help the perm’, ‘softer andshinier’). Point out that this one is the bestoption because it is polite and positive and useslanguage the client can understand.

■ Question 2 Read the options aloud and asklearners to underline the vague words in each(e.g. ’stuff’, ‘sometime’). Support them to findthese words. Explain that these words do notgive the client precise information and soundlike the stylist is not really interested in helpingthe client, or doesn’t know what they aretalking about.

■ Read the remaining option when the othershave been eliminated and ask learners todiscuss how it helps the client.

ExtensionAsk learners to list positive things to say about apartner’s hairstyle and hair condition.

Task 2

Listen to and advise a client SLlr/L1.1SLlr/L2.4SLc/L2.1SLd/L2.4SLd/L2.5

■ Question 1 Encourage learners to read throughthe nine words before listening to the audioclip. Explain to learners that as they listen tothe audio clip they should circle the things theclient asks for. They can ask for the audio to berepeated, as they could ask the client to repeatthe information.

■ Play the audio clip through for gist and checkthat learners understand the spoken idiom.

■ Play the audio clip again, pausing if necessaryfor learners to think about what they haveheard.

■ Question 2 Read the instructions and checkthat learners understand the meaning of‘prominent nose’.

■ Make sure learners have the Information andAdvice cards and point out that they need tosearch for the ones that give information aboutstyles for people with a prominent nose.

■ Point out the tips and remind learners that aclient might be sensitive about this facialfeature, so they should be careful about whatthey say.

15

If the learner has difficulty■ Question 1 Check that ESOL learners

understand the key vocabulary.

■ Read the audio script aloud, pausing after eachsentence and asking learners direct questionsabout the information they heard.

■ Encourage learners to tick their choices inpencil first, in case they want to change theirmind. Suggest that they listen for the keyphrase ‘I thought …’, as this is how the clientintroduces her preferences.

■ Read the information again to allow learners tocheck their choices before circling them.

■ Question 2 Check that learners have thecorrect answers to question 1 first, as this willaffect their answer to this question.

■ Help learners to choose the relevantInformation and Advice cards and read theinformation on them, relating it to theinformation from the client circled in question 1.

■ Support learners to compare what the clientwants with the sort of style the cards suggestwould suit someone with a prominent nose.

■ Ask learners to practise explaining this to eachother as they would to a client. Remind themto be positive and to use phrases such as ‘Haveyou thought about ...’ and ‘How about if we…’.

■ Comment on the parts that they do really welland build on these, using the checklist on thefocus page as a guide.

ExtensionIn pairs, ask learners to choose a hairstyle in abook or magazine and explain it to a partnerwithout showing the picture. The partner shouldrepeat the information back and then find thepicture of the hairstyle described.

Task 3

Give clear, positive and helpful adviceSLlr/L2.4SLc/L2.1SLd/L2.4SLd/L2.5

■ Read through one of the Situation cards as anexample and ask learners to find the matchingInformation and Advice cards.

208


Ha

■ Read through the information and discuss howlearners would relate it to the situation, to givelearners a clear idea of what they are beingasked to do.

■ Point out the tips and encourage them to tryout their ideas on each other.

■ Make sure learners have the remainingSituation cards to choose from and theInformation and Advice cards.

■ Learners may choose their cards at random ormake a more informed choice after readingthem all.

If the learner has difficulty■ Read through the chosen card with the learners

and ask direct questions about the situation.Encourage learners to underline or highlightkey words or phrases as a reminder.

■ Support learners to find the relevantInformation and Advice cards. Read theinformation through with the learners,comparing it with the information on theSituation card.

■ Encourage learners to make a note of the keythings about the style that they could suggestto a client. Encourage them to demonstrate oneach other and comment on the parts they dowell.

■ Build on their ideas with reference to thechecklist on the focus page.

ExtensionAsk learners to find information on styles thatsuit different face shapes or other specific orirregular features not included in this theme.

Theme assessment■ Ask learners to compose a checklist of skills for

advising clients based on this theme.

■ Working in threes, ask learners to role-play aconsultation, one learner taking the role ofclient, one of stylist and the third as anobserver.

■ After the consultation the three learnerscomplete the checklist for the ‘stylist’ based onwhat each person feels about the way eachpoint was handled.

■ Swop roles so that each learner has taken eachrole.

■ After the exercise, learners may wish to producean action plan based on what they learnedabout their ability to advise clients.


209



210

Advising clientsClients often know what they want, but they might not beaware of the implications of what they are asking for. It isyour responsibility to advise clients so that they make aninformed choice.

Focus

Oh dear. That style won’t suit her

face shape.

Checklist for advising clients

● Listen carefully. Repeat information to check if necessary.● Give precise and accurate information. Avoid jargon. ● Be sensitive and polite. ● Suggest a compromise or offer a choice where possible.● Be positive and helpful!● Support your suggestions with pictures or a demonstration.● Seek an agreement from the client.

Here is the stylist’s response to the client.

Use the checklist above to check how well the stylistadvises the client.

Remember – the client has a high forehead.

You might find that sweeping it all back likethat looks harsh... we could soften the look

by lightening the fringe and it would stillemphasise your lovely cheekbones. How do

you feel about that?

Try this

Listen to the client and pick out her requirements.

The client has a low forehead and protruding chin.

How might you adapt the style to suit her better?

Remember!It is in the best interest of bothyou and the client to give clear,precise and accurate advice.

14

I want a stylelike this.


211

Advising clients

Task 1

A client wants a perm but her hair is badly out of condition.You know that a perm will be a disaster. You want to persuadethe client to wait until her hair is in better condition.

1 Tick the most appropriate explanation.

Task

SLlr/L1.1; SLlr/L2.4; SLc/L2.1; SLd/L2.4; SLd/L2.5Advise clients clearly, accurately and using appropriate language.

Tip

Choose the onethat is polite, clearand positive.

Tip

Choose the onethat gives preciseinformation.

Tips

● Use the Informationand Advice cards fromthe Source material tohelp you.

● Discuss the points onthe checklist.

● Remember to be clear,precise and positive.

● Support yoursuggestions.

2 Which of these statements gives further positive andhelpful advice to the client?

Tick your choice.

Task 2

1 Listen to this client’s requirements. Circle the thingsthat the client wants.

fringe wavy short

centre parting straight layers

side parting curly trim

2 Discuss with a partner how you might suggest alteringthe style for a client with a prominent nose.

Task 3

Work with a partner.

Choose a Situation card from the Source material anddecide how you would advise the client.

If you have a series ofspecial treatments first

your hair will bemoisturised enough to

help the perm looksofter and shinier.

There’s some stuff onthe market to help

your type of hair. Youcan have something

done here if you wantto wait a bit.

You’ll have to leave it acouple of weeks or so. I suggest you get it

conditioned meantime.

How about having a firsttreatment here today? We can then book the

perm for two weeks’ time.

It’ll be a while before I canperm it. Book a treatment

sometime and we’ll seehow we go. Okay?

I can’t perm it todaybecause it’s in such

bad condition. I’ll bookyou in for a course of

treatments.

Your hair has unevenporosity at the moment.

It’s likely to result inuneven absorption of

the perm withoutintense re-moisturising.

15


212

PAGES 2:15–2:16

Client records

Occupational settingKeeping proper client records is essential for goodsalon management and to ensure clients receive aservice appropriate for their individual needs. Therecords also give vital information should theclient complain or bring a legal case against thesalon. Different salons use different systems forrecording information. Some salons usehandwritten cards whereas others usecomputerised systems. The information requiredwill also alter from workplace to workplace. Thistheme introduces some standard informationusually required on client records and givespractice in filling in different cards by hand. Thisincludes asking for information, selecting therequired information, using workplaceconventions for recording technical information,where appropriate, and checking for accuracy.This theme has applications for use with theHabia Learning Support pack for Hairdressing: Level2, Unit G5 – ‘Give clients a positive impression ofyourself and your organisation’.

Materials Client record cards 1 and 2 from the Sourcematerial (0:29 and 0:30)

OHT version of Client record card completed withinformation for a client (real or imaginary)

Client record card 2 from the Source material(0:30) on OHT

Copies of workplace client record cards (blanksand completed) (or print-outs if computer systemsare used)

Learning outcomes1 To listen carefully for information and ask

questions to check for accuracy (focus page,Task 1)

2 To understand how to use the workplace clientcard storing system (focus page)

3 To use different formats to record information(focus page, Tasks 1 and 2)

4 To judge how much to write and use anappropriate method for recording information(focus page, Tasks 1 and 2)

5 To proofread work (focus page, Tasks 1 and 2)


■ Ask learners for ideas about why client recordsare important. Write these on theboard/flipchart and add anything they havemissed out, such the importance of records forlegal reasons.

■ Discuss each reason and ask learners toprioritise them.

■ Explain that if the information is not filled inregularly or it is not clear enough to read,mistakes might be made. Give a workplaceexample of this or use a known example of alegal case brought by a client against a salon.

Focus page

■ Read through and discuss the first five bulletpoints, making sure learners understand wordslike ‘accurate’ and ‘confidential’. Remindlearners how they would feel if their ownpersonal information was given to strangers.Explain about data protection and client rights.(‘Legal requirements in the salon’ in Module 1covers the Data Protection Act and relatedissues.)

■ Discuss the different filing systems mentioned– alphabetical order and numerical order.Explain how these work. Explain the workplacesystem to learners and, if possible, show themthis system, whether it is for handwritten cardsor on computer.

■ Discuss the advantages and disadvantages ofusing different systems. For example, cardsmight be put back in the wrong place. Pointout that with alphabetical order you might getthe wrong card if two clients have the samename. Give strategies for double-checking youhave the correct card.

Ha

Personal details■ Read through the information on the personal

details that might be included and explainwhat sort of client history details might beuseful to note down.

■ Relate the list of personal details to theexamples of client cards from the Sourcematerial and the workplace example, ifapplicable. Compare and contrast the headingsand general format and note what sort ofinformation is required in the differentversions.

■ Ask learners to turn the first four points intodirect questions they could ask the client to getthis information and practise asking them (e.g.‘Could I take your full name please?’).

■ Point out the tips and stress the importance ofgetting details correct, particularly telephonenumbers.

Service details■ Read through the bullet points on service

details and use workplace examples wherepossible.

■ Ask learners why this information needs to bekept up-to-date.

■ Talk through the tips and make sure learnersunderstand the meaning of ‘accurate’. Give anexample of a service that is not describedaccurately (such as a colour). Explain thepossible consequences if the next stylist tries tocolour the client’s hair without thisinformation.

■ Explain workplace conventions forabbreviations (e.g. vol). Learners could make alist of these for future reference, with the fullmeaning written by the side like a glossary.This will help them to both read and write theinformation on the cards.

■ Relate the list of service details to the Clientcards. As before, compare and contrast theheadings and general format and note whatsort of information is required in the differentversions. Also note any conventions forrecording information, such as tick boxes.

Try this■ Give learners the following spoken personal

details for a real or imaginary client: name,address, home and work telephone numbers(chunk these into three-digit sets), age.

■ Encourage learners to ask for clarification ofdetails, such as spellings of names or fornumbers to be repeated.

■ Get learners to fill in the information on Clientcard 1 from the Source material.

■ Show them just the relevant section of thefilled in OHT version for comparison.

■ Now give learners the following informationwritten down: date of first appointment, stylist,hair and scalp condition, any useful history.

■ Discuss this information and use the OHTversion to show where the information goesand how it might be written.

■ Give the following details about a client servicefor learners to complete the rest of the card:date of the appointment, service, productsused, price, any remarks required.

■ Use the OHT version to model an example ofhow learners might have filled in the card.

■ Use the blank OHT version of Client recordcard 2. Remind learners what sort ofinformation from the first example of a clientrecord card is not required here (ask learners topoint out the same or similar headings on thetwo).

■ Discuss where each piece of information wouldbe put in this version.

■ If appropriate, ask learners to fill in a workplaceclient record card with the same information.

■ Remind learners of the importance ofconfidentiality in dealing with and handlingany sort of client information.


213

2:15–2:16 Client records


SLlr/L1.1 Unit G5SLc/L1.2 Rt/L1.4Wt/L1.2Wt/L1.4Wt/L1.5Wt/L1.6Ww/L1.2


Task 1

Listen for and record information on a clientrecord cardSLlr/L1.1SLc/L1.2Wt/L1.2Wt/L1.4Wt/L1.5Wt/L1.6Ww/L1.2

■ Make sure learners have Client record card 2from the Source material.

■ Point out that the task involves filling ininformation on this card.

■ Read through the instructions for each part andmake sure learners understand what they arebeing asked to do and know which section towrite information into.

■ For part 1, check that learners are aware of howto use the headings on the ‘personal details’section of the card for their questions. Givesome example questions, such as ‘Could I haveyour name please?’

■ Talk learners through the tips as a reminder ofhow to record the information.

If the learner has difficulty■ Remind learners what personal details they

need to put on the card. Get them to jot thesedown so that they remember to ask for thisinformation from their partner.

■ Encourage them to use pencil so that they canamend anything they need to later.

■ Encourage them to ask one question at a time,in the order the information is set out on thecard.

■ Learners may find it difficult to listen and writedown information. Encourage the persongiving the details to give them slowly andclearly, pausing while the other person writesdown the information.

■ Check that learners are clear about where toput the information on the card.

■ Encourage learners to underline the key partsthey need to record, such as the date.

■ Support learners to phrase the information in aclear way and to check spellings and make sureany abbreviations are clear. They can refer tothe abbreviations list they made earlier.

■ Make sure learners check spellings andtelephone numbers with each other.

■ Dyslexic learners will need extra time tocomplete this task.

Extension■ Ask learners to swop cards with a partner and

compare how the information has beenrecorded. They should also check that they canread each other’s work.

■ Give learners a completed card (real or madeup) to find out about a specific service theclient had.

Task 2

Record and check information on a client recordcardWt/L1.2Wt/L1.4Wt/L1.5Wt/L1.6Ww/L1.2

■ Make sure learners have Client record card 1from the Source material.

■ Read through the instruction for part 1,explaining to learners that they are to use thesame information as for Task 1. Stress that thepoint of the activity is to practise puttinginformation in the correct places.

■ Read through part 2 so that learners are awarethat they need to comment on each other’swork. Remind them that it is important forother people to be able to read theinformation.

■ Stress the importance of being honest but fairand remind learners to pick out things that areclear as well as anything that isn’t. Make surelearners work with suitably compatiblepartners. This should not become too personal!

If the learner has difficulty■ Support them in identifying the same or

similar headings and copying the informationinto the correct places.

■ Support learners to check their work.

■ Learners may be reluctant to proofread andcomment on another person’s work. They mayneed more structure for this activity. Ask directquestions such as ‘Is the name of your roadspelt correctly?’

■ If necessary, learners can proofread the worktogether so that the person who has filled inthe card is also checking for errors in their ownwork.

214


Ha

ExtensionGive learners two or three more example servicesto record on the same record card. These shouldcover services that need quite a lot of informationto be recorded, to give learners practice inrecording things like different products, strengthsof colour, development time, etc.

Theme assessment■ Ask learners to use their own workplace system

to find a record card/information for a client.

■ Ask them to explain to other learners what theclient’s last service or treatment was (there isno need to name the client).

■ Provide a scenario about the client’s nextappointment and ask learners to fill in a newcard for the client with these service details.

■ The new card can be kept in the learners’portfolios but should not contain the client’spersonal details and should be clearly markedas a sample copy.


215



216

Client recordsIt is in everyone’s interest, including the clients’, to keep up-to-date information about the services and treatments clients have received.

Information on client records must be:● up-to-date ● complete● accurate ● confidential.● easy to read

Client records might be: ● handwritten cards filed in alphabetical or

numerical order● stored on a computer system.

The records should include some or all of the following information.

Focus

These details MUST beupdated after every service,treatment or test.

These detailsonly needupdating ifthere are anychanges.

Tip

You will need to ask the clientfor these details.

To check details you can:

● ask about spellings● repeat details to the client.

Client’s personal details

● name● date of birth or age ● address● telephone number● first appointment details, including history and

observations.

Service details

● date of service, treatmentor test

● any changes to hair/scalpcondition since last service

● type of service given● price● stylist● remarks about the service/

home care advice given ● recommendations for

future services

Try this

1 Your teacher will give you somepersonal details about a client.Record them on Client recordcard 1 from the Source material.

2 Use the given details to practisefilling in the service section ofthe record card.

Tips

● Check you have the correct record – youmay have two clients with the same name!

● Use headings as a guide.● Write clearly.● Keep information short and accurate.● Check it carefully. ● Put the card back in the correct place.

Fill in client record cards with clear andaccurate information.


217

Client records

Task 1

Work with a partner. You will need Client record card 2from the Source material.

1 Ask your partner for information to complete the‘personal details’ section.

2 Use the information below to fill in the section abouttests on the same record card.

3 Use the information below to complete the ‘servicedetails’ section.

Task 2

1 Use the same information to fill in the relevant sections ofClient record card 1 from the Source material.

2 Swop cards with your partner from Task 1 and checkeach other’s work.

3 Discuss these issues with your partner.

● Are the personal details correct and spelt correctly?● Is the information in the correct places?● Is the handwriting neat and easy to read?● Is the information written clearly? Is it easy to follow?

Task

SLlr/L1.1; SLc/L1.2; Wt/L1.2; Wt/L1.4; Wt/L1.5; Wt/L1.6; Ww/L1.2

Tip

Remember to checkthe information.

Tip

Be honest but fair.

The client had a skin test on 12th July 2005.The client’s skin reacted to the colouring product.It caused a rash.

Client had appointment 14th July 2005 – full-headhighlights using foils to avoid peroxide coming intocontact with skin.Barrier cream used on neck.Client’s scalp and neck checked before and aftertreatment.Client advised to buy henna wax conditioner anduse for next 3 to 4 washes.Service cost £70.00. Henna wax £8.50.

Tips ● Use the headings.● Keep information

short and accurate.● Write clearly.● Check information

carefully.


218

PAGES 2:17–2:18

Sections and cutting angles

Occupational settingHaircutting skills are acquired with a thoroughunderstanding of the shapes and effects that canbe created in hair using a range of techniques.Cutting involves making guide sections to assistmethodical and accurate progression through thecut. It also involves holding and cutting the hairat the correct angle for the effect the stylist wantsto achieve. This theme introduces positionallanguage associated with making guidelines, andlooks at three of the most common angles usedby stylists. The learning in this theme contributesto competence in the Habia Learning Support Packfor Hairdressing: Unit H6 – ‘Cut hair using basictechniques’.

Materials Head blocks

Strips of paper, pairs of strips joined to formhinged callipers

Set square or protractor

Learning outcomes1 To understand and use language related to

haircutting (focus page, Task 1)

2 To recognise 90° and 45° angles (focus page,Task 2)


■ Explain that a hairstyle is three-dimensionaland that there is more to cutting hair thansimply reducing its length. When cutting hair,we change the internal shape as well as theoutline and length.

■ Discuss that, in its most basic form, cuttinginvolves sectioning the hair to assistmethodical and accurate progression throughthe cut, and then holding and cutting hair atthe correct angle for the effect the stylist wantsto achieve.

■ Explain how the angle at which the hair is heldwill affect the weight distribution, balance anddegree of a graduated cut. It is important totake account of the contours of the head toachieve a balanced result.

Focus page

■ Look at the diagram showing three orientationsfor sectioning: vertical, horizontal anddiagonal. Ensure learners understand what ismeant by each of these terms. Ask forsuggestions for ways to remember eachorientation (e.g. a headband runs horizontallyacross the head from here to here; a verticalparting goes from the front of your forehead toyour vertebrae or vest, etc.).

■ Use a head block (or a volunteer) and point outthe various features of the head, asking learnersto name them. List the parts on a diagram onthe board/flipchart, including front hairline,crown, nape and occipital bone. Demonstratehow to find the occipital bone and how totrace its shape with a finger or a comb. Pointout its slightly diagonal orientation.

■ Explain and demonstrate how sections aretaken to control the hair and to produceguidelines for cutting it into the correct shape. – Start by making a parting from the front

hairline to the nape, pointing out that itruns vertically down the back of the head,dividing the hair into two sections.

– Demonstrate how to make a horizontalsection across the back of the head, justbelow the ears, providing a narrow mesh ofhair that can be cut to produce a guideline.

– Demonstrate how further horizontal sectionscan be taken and the guideline of the newlycut hair followed to produce hair of thesame length.

– Start again with a vertical parting to thenape and this time demonstrate how to takea diagonal section from the centre to justbelow the bottom of each ear. Repeat asbefore.

Ha

■ Working in pairs, ask learners to practisemaking vertical, horizontal and diagonalsections. Encourage them to use the correctterminology to describe what they are doing.

■ Now explain that different effects can beachieved by altering the angle at which hair isheld before cutting.

■ Establish that hair falling naturally to theshoulder is at 0°. Demonstrate how hair can belifted at 90° to the scalp before cutting. Pointout the angle between the natural line of thehead and its position at 90°. If using a block,take and cut further sections, pointing out the90° angles and emphasising that the anglemust be consistent in order for the finishedstyle to be balanced.

■ Ask for suggestions of other everyday placeslearners have seen 90° angles (e.g. shelves,corners of pages, etc.). Demonstrate the angleusing a set square and/or card callipers.

■ In pairs, get learners to practise holdingsections of hair at 90° to the scalp on differentparts of the head, whilst their partner measuresthe angle using card callipers (or a folded pieceof paper will suffice).

■ Demonstrate hair being held at 90° and fingersparallel to the scalp. Emphasise that anglesmust be consistent and the consequences ofthem not being so. Demonstrate what is meantby parallel. Point out to learners that otherangles will be used to create graduated haircuts.Point out that 45° is half of 90°. Get learners tofold their 90° template in half to make a 45°angle. Ask learners to practise holding sectionsof hair at 45° to the scalp, with their partnerchecking.

■ Ask learners to complete the first ‘Try this’activity on the focus page by drawing in a lineto show a section of hair held at 45° to thehead.


MSS2/E3.1 Unit H6 N/AUnit H7

Task 1

Recognise the orientation of section guidelines MSS2/E3.1

■ Remind learners of the three orientations forsectioning – vertical, horizontal and diagonal –and any strategies for remembering which iswhich.

■ Point out that in this task they will identifyvertical and horizontal guidelines.

If the learner has difficulty■ Check that learners understand the language

used, particularly ‘vertical’ and ‘horizontal’ andhow these apply to the head. Use strips ofpaper or card on a head to demonstrate thedifference. Help learners to find a strategy ormnemonic to help them remember which iswhich.

■ Take one guideline at a time and use strips ofpaper and a head block to experiment anddetermine the main direction of the guideline.

ExtensionGive learners verbal or written instructions forsectioning hair to follow on a block, inpreparation for different hair styles.

Task 2

Identify the angle that hair is heldMSS2/E3.1

■ Remind learners of the angles they have lookedat – 45° and 90°.

■ Remind them that the angle is taken againstthe natural line of the head.

If the learner has difficulty■ Assist the learner in holding sections of hair as

demonstrated in the photographs. Have tohand templates marked 45° and 90° for learnersto check the angle.

■ Demonstrate by altering the angle of the hairthat 45° is half of 90°.

■ Give plenty of practice.

■ Make a game of Pelmanism, using photos ofhair held at the two angles.

Extension■ Ask learners to experiment cutting hair held at

different angles. How is the effect different?

■ Investigate the impact on the style and finishof cutting at different angles.


219

2:17–2:18 Sections and cutting angles


Theme assessmentAsk learners to follow instructions on hair cuttingtechniques taken from a magazine or trainingmanual.

220

2:17–2:18 Sections and cutting angles


221

Sections and cutting anglesThere are many different techniques for achieving goodresults in cutting. The first step involves making sectionsto help you work methodically and accurately through thecut. The second step involves holding and cutting the hairat the correct angle for the effect you wish to achieve.

Focus

↕

↕

This section runs horizontally .

Horizontal sections can go across thenape, across the crown or round theback of the head from ear to ear.

This section runs vertically .

Vertical sections can go from the centrefront hair line to the centre back nape.Sometimes they are shorter.

This section runs diagonally .

Diagonal sections can go from leftto right or from right to left .

They are usually positioned tofollow the shape of the head.

↕

↕

↕

↕

↕↕

This section of hairhas been lifted 90°to the head.

90°

These sections ofhair have alsobeen lifted 90°to the head.

90°

This hair is held down closeto the head at a 0° angle.

45°

Try this

At what angle is this section of hair held?

Try this

Draw a line toshow a sectionof hair that hasbeen lifted 45°to the head.

Here, the horizontalguideline runs acrossthe head just above theears. The verticalguideline runs from thecrown to form a ‘T’.


222


Task 1

1 Which are vertical guidelines?

2 Which are horizontal guidelines?

Task 2

At what angle to the head is each section of hair held?

1 2 3

Task

MSS2/E3.1Recognise sections and angles.

a

b

c

a b c

d

e

f


223

PAGES 2:19–2:20

Solving problems

Occupational settingSometimes treatments don’t go exactly to plan.Help and advice can be sought from a seniormember of staff, but hairdressers also need todevelop skills and confidence in seeking out thecorrect remedial action for themselves. Mostsalons have charts that identify what may havegone wrong and appropriate remedial actions.The information is generally presented in tabularform. This theme develops the skills needed toextract information from this kind of table.

Materials Colouring and lightening problems chart fromthe Source material (0:31)

Perming problems chart from the Source material(0:32)

Learning outcome1 To use a problem-solving chart to identify the

cause of unsatisfactory results and remedialactions (focus page, Task 1)


Ask learners what they would do if a treatmentproduced unsatisfactory results. How would theyfind out how to put it right? If learners say theywould ask a senior member of staff for advice,confirm that this is a good option and is generallythe set procedure for salon juniors. Point out thatas they become more experienced, however, theywill also need to become more independent andwill require other strategies for finding out whatto do if a problem occurs.

Focus page

■ Look together at the problem-solving chart onthe focus page, which is also in the Sourcematerial.

■ Make sure learners are clear about the contentsof each column, as identified by the headings.Learners may not have come across the phrase‘remedial action’ – it can be interpreted as‘cure’, ‘solution’ or ‘putting it right’.

■ Explain any terms unknown to the group (e.g.‘Under processing’).

■ Using the example on the page, demonstratehow to use the table by searching for theproblem and tracking across to the possiblecauses. Explain that there is often more thanone possible cause; you must decide whichcause is most likely by a process of elimination.Point out that this is important information, asit helps to avoid making the same mistakeanother time.

■ Now track across to the remedial action.Explain that they should do all the things inthe list.

■ The main skills used are scanning for theproblem and then tracking carefully across tothe causes and to the remedial action.Encourage learners to track with their fingers orwith a straight edge such as a ruler or aninverted-L-shaped card.

■ Ask learners to find other examples of problem-solving charts from their salons and identifycommon features and differences.

Task 1

Find the possible cause and remedial action forproblems occurring during treatmentsHD1/E2.1Rw/L1.2Rt/L1.4Rt/L1.5


HD1/E2.1 N1.1Rw/L1.2 C1.2Rt/L1.4Rt/L1.5


■ Check that learners have copies of the twoproblem-solving charts (Colouring andlightening problems; Perming problems) fromthe Source material. Explain that these arecharts on the notice board in the salondispensary.

■ Remind learners of the headings and format ofthe information.

■ Explain that for each question they need tofind either the possible cause or the appropriateremedies.

If the learner has difficulty■ Talk through the scenarios in the speech-

bubbles one at a time to establish what ishappening. Ask direct questions to support thelearner. What is the problem here? Is it a permingproblem or a colouring problem?

■ Help learners to scan for the correct section inthe table by identifying key words (e.g.stained).

■ Having identified the correct section of thechart, learners may find it easier to isolate thatsection. This allows them to focus in on a smallamount of information, rather than experienceinformation overload.

■ Use a straight edge such as a ruler or piece ofcard to support tracking activities. This isparticularly relevant for dyslexic learners withpoor tracking skills who may otherwise losetheir place.

ExtensionUse the table in a different way to identify theconsequences of using poor or inappropriatetechniques.

Theme assessment■ Create a quiz for learners based on other

problem-solving charts.

■ Having the skills to look up faults themselveswill give learners confidence in work situations.

224

2:19–2:20 Solving problems


225

Colour and lightening problems

Problem Cause Remedial action

Uneven result ● Uneven application ● Spot tint lighter areas● Sections too large● Incorrect mixing

Under processing ● Product not left for sufficient time ● Re-apply bleach or colourto develop

● Hydrogen peroxide strength too low ● Pre-soften the hair next time● Uneven application● Resistant hair

Over processing ● Hydrogen peroxide strength too high ● Treat with restructurants and● Hair in poor condition before colour penetrating conditioning● Product left on hair too long treatments

Deterioration of ● Colour or bleach not rinsed from ● Treat with restructurants andhair condition the hair penetrating conditioning

● Overprocessing treatments

Scalp irritation ● Peroxide too strong ● Remove immediately with● Client allergic to tint cool water

Coverage not good ● Hair resistant to tint ● Pre-soften the hair in futureon white hair ● Tint underprocessed ● Re-apply product

● Uneven application ● Spot tint areas not covered

Hair breakage ● Over porous hair ● Remove immediately● Overprocessed ● Cut if possible● Overlapping of bleach product ● Use restructurant/deep-● Colour combed through too often conditioning penetrating● Incorrect selection of product – conditioner

product too strong● Hydrogen peroxide strength too high

Result too yellow ● Underprocessed ● Do elasticity and porosity test;● Base too dark if result is good, re-bleach● Incorrect selection of product ● Apply toner to subdue yellow

tones

Skin staining ● Too little colour product applied ● Re-shampoo or use stain● Too much colour product applied remover

at hairline● Colour product not removed

Seepage of ● Incorrect application of materials ● Spot colour areas of seepageproduct and products

● Too much product applied● Incorrect mixing of product

Solving problemsSometimes treatments don’t go exactly to plan. Salons oftenhave charts like the one below to help identify what may havegone wrong and what you can do to improve the situation.

Focus

Do you have any chartslike this in your salon?Information is listed in rows and columns .

Finding information

● Trace across therows and downthe columnsto find specificinformation.

● Carefully read theinformation wherethe row and columnmeet.

Tip

Use a finger ora ruler to helptrack acrossthe table.

Try this

Your client complains of scalp irritationafter you’ve applied a colour treatment.

1 What could be the cause?

2 What must you do?

☞

☞

☞

☞

The title tells you brieflyabout the informationon the chart.

The row and columnheadings tell youabout the type ofinformation containedon the chart, forexample:● problem – what has

happened● cause – why it went

wrong● remedial action –

what to do toimprove things.


226

Solving problems

Task 1

Use the Colouring and lightening problems chart and thePerming problems chart from the Source material to solvethese problems.

Task

HD1/E2.1; Rw/L1.2; Rt/L1.4; Rt/L1.5Use a chart to find information.

1My client’s skin is stained

with the tint I applied.What shall I do?

2There are band marks

showing on my client’s perm.What did I do wrong?

3My client’s perm is too

tight. How can I avoid thathappening again?

4My client’s white hair hasn’ttaken the colour very well. Can I make it any better?

227

Check it1 Which of these questions is likely to get you a longer, detailed answer?

A Your hair is greasy today isn’t it?

B Do you find that your hair gets greasy quickly?

C Do you use a shampoo for greasy hair?

D What is your weekly routine for washing your hair? SLc/L1.2

Use The Structure of the skin from the Source material (page 0:23)

to answer questions 2 and 3.

2 On the diagram, what colour is the blood supply shown as?

A red

B blue

C red and blue

D purple Rt/E3.9

3 Find the section of the text that these notes are about.

A The epidermis is the outer layer of skin. It has five

distinct layers within it.

B The skin is the outer covering of the body.

C The dermis is the inner layer of skin. It is the

thickest layer and lies under the epidermis.

D The part of the hair that shows above the skin or

scalp is known as the hair shaft. Rt/L2.2

4 What does the speaker tell you not to do when using hairspray?

A Hold the can upright.

B Hold the can 30 cm from the hair.

C Spray into the roots.

D Hold the can close to the hair. SLlr/L1.1

E. outer l. skinE. 5 layers in it

When using hairspray, make sure that you hold the canupright, about 30 cm from the hair. Don’t be temptedto hold it closer because it will wet the hair and loosen

the set. For a firm hold, spray into the roots.

Please note that copies of pages 0:23, 0:24 and 0:31 fromthe Source material are needed.

228

CLIENT RECORD CARD

Personal details To be kept updated

Name: Address:

Telephone numbers: Date first registered Age group:

Home

Work Stylist

Hair condition Scalp Skin type

Service details To be completed after every treatment, test or service

Date Stylist Treatment Remarks

5–15 16–30

31–50 50+

Milk and HoneySHAMPOO

pH 4.5

I am going to conduct a porositytest to determine the ability ofyour hair to absorb moisture.

Your hair looks rough.

I’m running my hands throughyour hair to see how quickly it

might take up the colour.

There’s no way we canuse colour on your hair.

5 What effect would the product in this pack have on

the cuticle of the hair?

A It would open the cuticle.

B It would close the cuticle.

C It would not change the cuticle.

D It would clean the cuticle. N2/E3.3

6 Look at the Contents page from the Source material (page 0:24). On which

page will you find information about perming and neutralising hair?

A 9

B 158

C 129

D 290 Rt/L1.4

7 A stylist is doing a porosity test on a client’s hair. Choose the

comment that is polite, clear and positive.

A B

C D

SLc/L2.3

8 When should the information in the ‘Service details’ section of

the Client record card below be updated?

A when you remember

B after every treatment, test or service

C when the client has a different stylist

D when the client first registers

Rt/L1.5

229

9 At what angle is the hair in this photograph being held?

A 0°

B 45°

C 90°

D 180° MSS2/E3.1

10 You will need the Colour and lightening problems chart from the

Source material (0:31). What should you do if the client’s scalp

becomes irritated while you are colouring it?

A Reapply colour.

B Pre-soften the hair in future.

C Spot tint areas not covered.

D Remove the colour immediately with cool water. HD1/E2.1


230

Audio

Client consultationPAGE 2:1

I’d like some of the weight taken out – y’know, soit’s layered – but I want to keep the length. Just trimthe ends up. I’d like it blow-dried under, in a sort ofsoft bob but with a centre parting.

Science and hairPAGE 2:6

Task 3There are some general points about perming youneed to take into account before you start. Beforeyou choose the strength of the perm lotion and thetechnique for applying it – the rods, curlers orformers and winding technique – you must lookcarefully at the client’s hair. There are five thingsthat you should notice. Look at its length, densityand texture as well as its condition and the stylethat it’s cut in.

You’ll need to ask the client about any previouschemical treatments as well as looking at the card.You never know whether the card is up to date orwhat the client has done at home since the lastappointment. If you start applying lotion to hairthat’s full of products, you’re on the way to disaster!You’ll also need to ask about the direction and sizeof the curl that the client’s expecting.

You’ll need to find out the temperature of thesalon. This is important because it influences the ratethat the perm lotion works; you’ll have to decidewhether you need added heat to help theprocessing.

Completing testsPAGE 2:7

Excuse me, Sarah. I’d like to use your head toexplain to Gemma about the tests we do on yourhair before we perm it. Is that OK with you?

Perm lotions used on the hair may react with otherchemicals that’ve already been used – for example inhome-use products.

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If you think the hair has already been treated withother chemicals – for instance if it looks dull – askthe client what products she uses at home and thendo an incompatibility test so you’re sure that theperm solution isn’t going to react with anychemicals that may already be on the hair, andcause damage.

Right, the test. First of all, always make sure youprotect your hands by wearing gloves. Next, place asmall cutting of the client’s hair in a mixture ofhydrogen peroxide and ammonium hydroxide.Watch out for any bubbling, heating ordiscoloration. If any of these things happen, it meansthat the hair already contains metallic compoundsand shouldn’t be permed. Don’t tint it or bleach iteither.

PAGE 2:8

Tasks 1–3We call this the skin test, but it can also be called apredisposition test or a patch test. Some people callit the Sabouraud–Rousseau test but that’s a bit of amouthful!

Anyway, whatever it’s called, we use it when a clientwants permanent colour. It has to be done at least24 to 48 hours before the colour so that there’s timefor any negative reactions to develop.

Right, Mrs Ross, are you ready?

First of all, mix up a little of the tint that you’regoing to use. Make sure you’ve mixed the correctamount and strength of hydrogen peroxide with it.

Next, clean a small area of skin – about 8 mmsquare. That’s about the width of your littlefingernail. Do it behind the ear or in the fold of thearm. Don’t do it in an obvious place. Use some spiriton some cotton wool to remove all the grease fromthe skin. Like this. OK?

When you’ve done that, apply a little of the tintmixture to the skin and let it dry.

When it’s dry, carefully cover the patch withcollodion. This protects it. But always remember tofollow the manufacturer’s instructions to the letter.Only use collodion if the manufacturer of the tintsays you can.

Finally, ask the client to keep an eye on the patch fora couple of days and tell them to phone if there’s

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any discomfort or irritation. Will you do that, MrsRoss? I’m not expecting anything dreadful of course,but just keep an eye on it.

When the client comes in for the colouringappointment you should check the patch forsoreness, swelling or inflammation. Never ignore theresults of a skin test. If there is a reaction and youcarry on anyway, it might lead to a bigger reactionsuch as dermatitis. If there’s no reaction, you cancarry on with the treatment as planned.

OK, Mrs Ross. We’ll see you on Saturday at 2o’clock. Don’t forget to let us know if you notice anychanges around the test. Did you have a coat withyou?

Advising clientsPAGE 2:13

I was thinking of having a short fringe this time. Ittends to flop over my face at the moment. I’d like itall quite a bit shorter, you know, probably about tothe end of my chin here. Maybe a bit of a curl?

PAGE 2:14

Task 2I’m going to a party so I’d like something a bitdifferent. I usually have a straight fringe, but Ithought I’d try a centre parting this time. My hair’sgone a bit wavy. I’m not sure if it suits me. I thoughtabout having it curly this time and perhaps in ashort style, you know, just over the ears. What d’youthink?

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AnswersTask 2You may have written something like this:

Task 3As long as you can read your notes back and all theinformation in them is correct, you have done agood job. You may have written something like this:

Look at hair:Ask:■ previous chemical treatments■ direction curl■ size curlFind outTemperature salon

PAGES 2:7–2:8

Completing tests

Task 1You could have chosen any of these:Mix up a little of the tint that you are going to use.Mix the correct amount and strength of hydrogenperoxide with it.Clean a small area of skin about 8mm square behindthe ear or in the fold of the arm.Use some spirit on some cotton wool to remove allthe grease from the skin.Apply a little of the tint mixture to the skin.Let the tint dry.Ask the client to keep an eye on the patch for acouple of days.Ask the client to phone up if there’s any discomfortor irritation.Check the patch for soreness, swelling orinflammation.

CHEMICAL ACTION DURING PERMINGDuring p, h can b wound on 2 rods/curlersb4/after treated with p lotion. Gt care should btaken winding the h on 2 rods or curlers as h is vfragile during p and easily broken. p lotion breakssome of the disulphide bonds in the polypeptidechains of the h structure, leaving it weak. Inalkaline p, c 20% of linkages broken.

PAGES 2:1–2:2

Client consultation

FocusThe client wants:Layers put in, length kept and ends trimmed.Blow dried into a soft bob with a centre parting.

Task 12 Here is an example of a closed question:

Is your hair dry?Here is an example of an open question:What other treatments have you had on your hairover the past few months?

PAGES 2:3–2:4

Hair structure and types

Task 11 7.42 The structure of the skin3 b the way something is constructed or organised4 b dark red5 a the dermis and epidermis

Task 2To be mediated by the teacher

PAGES 2:5–2:6

Science and hair

Task 1You may have written something like this:

CHEMICAL ACTION DURING PERMINGDuring p the h can b wound on 2 rods or curlerseither b4 or after it is treated with p lotion. Greatcare should b taken when winding the h on 2rods or curlers as h is very fragile during p andcan b easily broken. This is because p lotionbreaks some of the disulphide bonds in thepolypeptide chains of the h structure, leaving itweak. In alkaline p, about 20% of the linkagesare broken.

1. length

2. density

3. texture

4. condition

5. style


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Task 2Don’t do the test in an obvious place.Never ignore the results of a skin test.

Task 31 Mix up a little of the tint that you are going to

use.2 Clean a small area of skin about 8mm square

behind the ear or in the fold of the arm.3 Apply a little of the tint mixture to the skin.4 Cover the patch with collodion if the tint

manufacturer’s instructions say you can.5 Ask the client to keep an eye on the patch for a

couple of days.

PAGES 2:9–2:10

The pH scale

Task 11 Open2 Close3 Close4 Open


PAGES 2:11–2:12

Product knowledge

Task 11 a 30

b Relaxing hair c page 299

2 To be mediated by the teacher3 To be mediated by the teacher


Task 31 Moisture Mask2 Write to Naliman Products, PO Box 192, Ashby-

on-Lea, AY1 5TL or visit the websitewww.nalimanproducts.com

3 No4 Moisture Mask

PAGES 2:13–2:14

Advising clients

FocusThe client wants:short fringecut to about chin lengthsome curlYou might suggest a slightly longer style with curlsat the nape area and a fluffy fringe.

Task 11 If you have a series of special treatments first your

hair will be moisturised enough to help the permlook softer and shinier.

2 How about having a first treatment here today?We can then book the perm for two weeks’ time.

Task 21 The client wants:

centre partingcurlyshort

2 You might have advised the client to have one ormore of these:soft curls at the chin linehair brought forward at the foreheada full and loose fringe


PAGES 2:15–2:16

Client records



PAGES 2:17–2:18


Focus90°


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Task 11 Vertical: b, c and e2 Horizontal: a, d, and f

Task 21 90°2 90°3 45°

PAGES 2:19–2:20

Solving problems

FocusThe peroxide could be too strong, or the clientcould be allergic to the tint.You must remove the tint immediately using coolwater.

Task 11 Re-shampoo or use stain remover.2 You wound the rods too tightly.3 Next time make sure that you don’t over process

the perm and check that the rod size is not toosmall.

4 Re-apply the product or spot tint the areas thatare not covered.

Check it 1 D2 A3 A4 D5 B6 B7 C8 B9 C

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Documents

Hairdressing Module 2- Stylist and Client