Haircutting sYnc 1

Leaning Objectives: Identify reference points on the head form

and understand their role in haircutting. Define angles, elevations, and guidelines. List the factors involved in a successful client

consultation. Explain the use of the various tools of

haircutting. Name three things you can do to ensure good

posture and body position while cutting hair.

Anatomy of the Skull

Reference Points

Understanding the reference points will help ensure Balance within the design; they allow you to recreate the haircut again and again. They also allow you to know where and when to Change your technique to make up for Irregularities in the head shape.

Reference Points Parietal Ridge_.

The Widest area of the head, starting at the Temples ending at the bottom of the Crown ; it is found by placing a comb flat on the head at the sides.

Where the head starts to Curve Away from the comb is the parietal ridge. It is also referred to as the Crest.

Reference Points Occipital Bone

The bone that protrudes at the Base of the skull.

Found by Feeling the skull or placing a comb flat against the Hairline and observing where the comb Leaves the head.

Reference Points The Apex  The Highest Point on the

top of the head; it is located by placing a comb flat On Top of the head. It will rest on that highest point.

Reference Points Four Corners

Place 2 combs flat against the Side and Back, locating the back corner at the point where the two combs Meet . 

Make two Diagonal lines crossing the apex of the head, pointing directly to the Front and Back corners.

Areas of the HeadThese are determined by

the Reference Points . They are the top, Front, back, Sides , Nape, crown, and Fringe views.

Areas of the Head Top  Locate the Top by parting the hair

at the Parietal Ridge, continuing all the way around the head.

The hair in the top area “Lays” on the head, while hair everywhere else “Hangs” due to gravity.

Areas of the Head Front

Part from the apex to the Back of the ears.

The hair that falls in Front of the ear is considered to be the front.

Areas of the Head Back Locate it by parting from the Apex to

the back of the ear. The hair that falls Behind the ear is

considered to be the back.

Areas of the Head Sides 

Include all the hair from the back of the ear Forward_, and below the Parietal Ridge

Crown  This is the area between the Apex and the

back of the Parietal Ridge.

Areas of the Head Nape

This is the area at the back part of the Skull and below the Occipital Bone.

Locate it by taking a Horizontal parting across the back of the head at the Occipital Bone_.

Areas of the Head Fringe Also called the

Bang Section , it is a triangular section that begins at the apex and ends at the Two front corners.

Lines and Angles

Lines and Angles A _Line_ is a thin

continuous mark used as a Cutting Guide.

The space between lines or surfaces that intersect at a given point is an Angle.

Lines and Angles These are parallel

to the Horizon or Floor .

They Direct the Eye from one side to the other.

They build Weight in haircutting.

Horizontal Lines

Lines and Angles Vertical Lines These are Up and

Down rather than left and right.

They are Perpendicular to the floor.

These lines Reduce weight and create Length.

Vertical Lines

Lines and Angles Diagonal Lines  These lines are In

between horizontal and vertical.

They create Roundness in haircutting.

Diagonal Lines

Haircutting

Haircutting Elevation This represents the Angle or degree at

which a subsection of hair is held, or elevated, from the head when cutting.

It creates Graduation and Layers and is usually described in degrees.

The more you elevate the hair, the more Graduation you create.

Haircutting Sometimes the

term elevation is replaced with Projection or simply Lifting .

Haircutting Overdirection Overdirection occurs when hair is

directed Or Combed outside of Natural Fall.

Overdirecting will result in added length in the Opposite direction.

Used to compensate for Weak areas and add Length in a haircut.

Overdirection

Lines and Angles Cutting Line This is the Angle

at which the Fingers are held when cutting the line that creates the end shape.

Lines and Angles It’s also called: Finger Angle Cutting Angle Finger Position Cutting Position

Haircutting Guidelines  Also called a guide, this is the section of

hair that determines the Length the hair will be Cut.

It is located at either the Parimeter (outer line) or the Interior of the cut.

It is usually the First section cut

Haircutting Stationary Guides This guide does not

Move , All other sections are combed To this Guide and are cut at the same angle or Length.

A blunt cut is example of a Stationary Guide.

Haircutting Traveling Guides Also called a Movable Guide, this guide

Moves as the haircut progresses. When using this type of guide, you take

A Small Slice of the previously cut section and move it to the next Subsection where it becomes the New Guide.

The Client Consultation

The Client Consultation Important Steps  

Always greet your guest By Name. Never speak to you guest Through the

Mirror_, sit next to them at Eye Level. Ask Open-ended questions to find out

exactly what your client expects from the service and what she/he would like to Accomplish.

Look at Photos with your client to determine EXACTLY what she/he wants.

The Client Consultation Ask about Past haircuts and what she

did or didn’t like. Evaluate the hair’s Texture , Density and

Wave Pattern to ensure the end result your guest desires is possible.

Recommend Products needed to achieve the Desired Look .

Discuss the Maintenance involved with the haircut your guest chooses.

The Client Consultation The Face Shape Identifying your client’s face shape will ensure the

style chosen will be Flattering to your guest’s natural features.

There are Six basic face shapes. Oval Round Square Diamond Triangle and Inverted Triangle Oblong

Hair Analysis

Hair Analysis

The five most important factors of hair analysis are Diameter, Density, Elasticity , Porosity , and Wave Pattern.

Hair Analysis Hair Diameter Hair Diameter describes the Size of an

individual hair strand. It is described as Fine, medium, or Coarse. Hair Density Hair Density refers to the Number of hairs

per Square Inch. Measured as Sparse, Medium, or Thick.

Hair Analysis Fine Hair that is Thick Fine Hair that is Sparse

Hair Analysis Wave Pattern This is the amount of Movement in the

hair strand. Is the client’s hair Straight, wavy, Curly,

or Excessively curly?

Hair AnalysisCurly Texture Straight Texture

Haircutting Tools

Haircutting Tools Shears These are used to cut Straight or Blunt lines as

well as other Texturizing techniques. The terms Shears and Scissors may be used

interchangeably. Use cloth saturated with Shear Oil and wipe

the inside of the blades after Each Use. Lubricate the swivel joint by placing One Drop

of scissor oil at the joint and Opening and Closing the Shear repeatedly.

Haircutting Tools Never use A Towel to clean the blades of

your shears or Submerge them in Liquid. Always Palm the shears and razor This

keeps the points Closed and pointed Away from the client when combing.

Palming shears also Reduces Strain on your index finger and thumb while combing hair.

Never cut Past your Second Knuckle.

Haircutting Tools Texturizing Shears These are used to remove bulk from the hair;

they are sometimes referred to as texturizing shears, Blending shears, or Thinning shears.

When using texturizing shears always Elevate the hair in the original position it was Cut .

The more Teeth in the texturizing shear, the more hair will be Removed.

Haircutting Tools The Razor These are used when a Softer effect is

desired on the hair ends. They can be used for entire haircuts, to

Thin hair, and to Texturize areas and Remove Weight. They can be used with or without guards.

Razors should be used at A 45 degree angle to hair and NEVER Perpendicular.

Haircutting Tools When using a razor,

Short strokes will result in Less texture and Longer strokes will remove more Hair resulting in More texture.

When razor cutting, the cutting motion comes from the Wrist .

Make sure the hair being cut is Damp when using a razor

Haircutting Tools Clippers These are used for creating Short Tapers,

short haircuts, Fades , Flat Tops , or to shave hair off right to the scalp.

Clippers should be Cleaned and maintained after Every client.

Trimmers also called Edgers , these are a smaller version of clippers; they are mainly used to remove excess or unwanted hair at the Harline and around the Ears_.

Haircutting Tools Cutting Comb It can be from Six to Eight inches (15 to

20 cm) in length and has fine teeth on one end and Wider teeth on the other end.

The Fine Teeth apply more Tension to the hair when combed.

The Wide Teeth apply less Tension to the hair when combed.

Texturizing Techniques

Texturizing Techniques Texturizing with the Razor

Sculpting is achieved by pinching the Ends of the hair and razoring on the right and left side in a Downward direction.

Sculpting gives the Ends _ of the hair a Piecey or Shattered effect and removes blunt lines.

Effilating is achieved by Skimming the top layer of section of hair.

Texturizing Techniques Effilating removes weight and gives the

hair a Feathered effect. Framing is a technique used to add Volume

to a finished style. Razor Over Comb is used to soften weight

lines and add texture to the ends of Short haircuts.

Razor Rotation is used to create a Random textured effect on shorter hairstyles.

Texturizing Techniques Texturizing with the Shears

Point Cutting softens the ends of the hair. To point cut, turn your shears Vertically and

cut Triangles into the ends of the hair. Point cutting can be done on Wet or Dry hair. Notching is done by holding the hair 3 Inches

from the ends and cutting with the Tips of the shears in an Upward direction.

Texturizing Techniques In Freehand_ notching small

pieces of hair are randomly cut using the Tips of the shears.

Freehand notching works well on Curly Textured hair.

In Slithering or Slide Cutting point the tips of the shears in the direction the hair falls and move the movable blade of the shear, make sure not to Close the shears.

Men’s Haircutting

Men’s Haircutting Design We design women’s hairstyles with Softness and

Femininity in mind, however men’s haircuts ideally take on a more Masculine shape.

In men’s cutting we think of the headform as a Square_ shape rather than a Round shape as in women’s cutting.

Even styles that have a more Tousled finished look still require a Structured or Scuplted feel.

 

Men’s Haircutting The Consultation

In order to ensure our guest receives Exactly what he’s expecting from a haircut service we need perform a thorough Client Consultation.

Ask about how much Maintenance your client is will to commit to, to make sure his style looks great every day.

Ask how Frequently_ he is willing to visit the salon to keep his style looking kept.

Keep his Style in mind. Keep it Short and to the Point.

Men’s Cutting Techniques

Men’s Cutting Techniques Clippers

They cut hair by using two moving blades held in place by a metal plate with teeth. They are used for Short haircuts and Fades.

They come in different sizes and shapes and are used with or without Guards .

Used without a Guard to remove hair Completely or to clean up necklines and around the ears and to Blend hairlines from short to longer lengths using the Clipper Over Comb technique

Men’s Cutting Techniques Guards are attachments that fit over

the blade plate and vary in size from 1/8 inch to One inch.

These allow cutting hair Evenly to an Exact length.

In the Clipper over Comb Technique clippers move across the Comb_.

The Angle of the comb determines the amount of hair that is Removed.

Men’s Cutting Techniques Place the comb Teeth

First into the hairline, turn the comb so the teeth are angled slightly Away from the head.

Stand in Front of the section to be cut. The area being cut should be at Eye Level.

Men’s Cutting Techniques Blending Shears

These shears are used to Soften the ends of the hair to create a more Tapered look.

Can be used to Blend shorter lengths into Longer lengths.

Using the blending shears to Texturize will enable the haircut to grow out more Gracefully.

Blending shears are also useful to remove Bulk from very Coarse textured hair.

Congratulations!