Haircolor Business& Technical Tips

From bottles vs. brushes to glazing, foiling and grey coverage, here are real world tips for better color and better color business.

by Jackie Summers

Naomi KnightDavines Artistic Team Member

Christy BlakeHOB Salons Senior Color Director

David StankoRedken Haircolor Consultant

Patrick McIvorMatrix Artistic Director

Every pro knows there are two sides to salon haircolor. First there’s the art of color—the process of creating your stunning color designs and choosing the dazzling shades for those designs. It’s this artistry—probably awakened within you the very first time you gazed at a rainbow box of Crayolas or your mother’s lipstick collection—that fuels your passion for haircolor.

Then there is the craft of haircolor—the actual methodology required to express your vision and your passion for color. These are the mechanics of your work—application, timing, product selection. It’s about mastering your tools—your brushes, foils and formulas—so they serve your ultimate creative vision rather than defeat it. The craft of color requires practice, patience and experience—there are no shortcuts.

As you continue on your journey, here are 12 indispensable tips that will help you express your true colors.

on the right levelEvery successful color strategy, declares Redken Haircolor Consultant David Stanko, begins with an accurate assessment of your client’s natural level. If you’re off on that one, you launch a domino effect of color failure, including faulty grey coverage, translucency, brassy tones and undesired color results! It takes a long time to train your eye to figure out a client’s natural level, says David, so have patience. It helps to keep in mind that nearly all women think their color is lighter than it actually is. So when she tells you she’s a natural dark blonde (Level 6), figure she’s closer to Level 5 or even 4! Next, use your salon color line’s natural series as your benchmark. Base your level assessments on that scale. And finally, nail your own level squarely in your mind’s eye. Then use that as the starting point to determine if your client’s natural level is lighter or darker than yours, and work your way up or down the level scale from there!

brush it and wrap itSuccessful grey coverage depends on thorough saturation, and one great strategy is to customize your brush to the client’s hair density, says Davines Artistic Team Member Naomi Knight. So if hair is coarse, reach for a thick brush; if it’s fine, choose one with skinnier bristles. “Grey hair likes to pop out,” notes Naomi, “so be sure to cross check everything after your application. While processing,” she adds, “I like to cover the hairline with Saran Wrap since that’s often the most stubborn area.”

tried & true huehints

highlights: go beyond the bleach“People need to think beyond bleach when highlighting,” declares Naomi. “Keep in mind that highlighting is a technique, not a product.” So when Naomi highlights she never uses less than three highlight formulas. One could be a bleach, but then the other two are haircolor formulas. “Follow the hair growth,” advises Naomi, “and mix it up by applying some of the highlights right at the root and others a bit further away from the scalp.”

a mini liftLots of colorists recognize the value of breaking the base—it quickly lifts strands one half to one level and can be used for pre-lightening when applied roots to ends, to lift regrowth prior to highlight retouching and to soften the appearance of regrowth between highlight services. Matrix Artistic Director Patrick McIvor often reaches for a high lift blonde formula mixed with double 40-volume developer for this technique, which he prefers to call a mini lift. “I apply the formula quickly, as if my pants are on fire,” he laughs, “and leave it on for just two-to-five minutes!”

the HOB appAt HOB Salons in the UK (winners of numerous British Hairdressing Awards) Senior Color Director Christy Blake goes beyond the classic quadrant when applying single process color. The HOB application is comprised of radial sections across the top of the head, and neat horizontal sections on the sides, from crown to nape and from crown to front. “Precise, ½-centimeter (less than ¼-inch) sections are crucial,” says Christy, “and sections should be even finer for heavy grey coverage. You need a rich amount of color for even absorption,” she adds, “and be sure to keep accurate color records and client histories to prevent banding and ensure proper matching when retouching.”

the retouch revisitedSure you’ve done so many retouches that you could probably do the next one in your sleep. (And maybe you have from time to time!) But everybody can benefit from a review of the retouch technique says David.There is always something to learn. So all together now, let’s take it step by step:1. Divide the hair in quadrants.2. Outline the hairline first.3. Work in fine, ¼-inch partings and take

care not to retouch the existing color.4. Saturate every single hair thoroughly.5. Cross check your final work, moving

in the opposite direction in which you applied the color to make sure that all of the new growth is covered completely.

6. Process according to manufacturer’s instructions, rinse and shampoo.

when to hit the bottleSome color pros scorn bottles for application, but it’s important to keep an open mind and select the right tool for the job, says Patrick. For example, when retouching a double process blonde client, who might come in every 9 or 10 days, you need a precise, ribbon-like application and that’s much easier to accomplish with a bottle. Another scenario is when you’re applying color between foils. “With the bristles from a brush, you run the risk of grabbing the foils and pulling them open or away from the scalp,” says Patrick. “With its smooth, rounded tip, the bottle goes up and over the foil and won’t disturb it at all.” Finally, bottles are perfect when you feel the need for speed. “For example,” Patrick says, “when I’m removing color and want to lighten the hair fractionally, I prefer to work at the sink with my color remover in a bottle. The formula has to go on quickly and evenly and I lose too much time reaching for my brush.”

the four-week hairline retouchWhen foiling, HOB color pros use a hand and comb technique, which Christy believes is the best way to get the foil as close to the root as possible. So create the desired weave or slice with your tail comb, snug the foil up to the scalp with your hand instead of the comb, and then use your comb to fold the foil.

british balayage: the root stretchBrits are typically more reserved than us boisterous Americans—even their balayage is subtler than ours! “We call it a Root Stretch,” reveals Christy. “We divide the hair into four sections and work in one section at a time. We like our color to be seamless, so the contrast between the dark roots and light ends is typically just one or two levels apart. We might apply a deep cocoa brown to the roots and a cappuccino on the ends rather than bleach.” Root Stretch sections are about one centimeter or 1/3 to 1/2-inch. Position the foil—which is used to keep the sections separated—apply the root color, stretching it along the midshaft and then place the lighter shade on the ends in a v-shaped section. “Placement is dictated by the cut,” Christy adds. “If the hair is layered, for example, we’ll only place the lighter color through the longer lengths.”

soften stubborn greysPre-softening resistant grey areas like temples and hairlines is usually done with hydrogen peroxide. But Naomi prefers to perform her pre-softening with color, straight from the tube. “I use a shade that’s one level lighter and one level warmer than the rest of my color,” she explains, “and then I apply my primary formula right over it. The goal is to open the cuticle, which is accomplished by the ammonia in the color, plus you get the benefit of the extra pigment.”

brush rouletteCutters rely on an arsenal of tools—straight blades, texturizers, razors, etc.—to achieve various effects. Why not amass the same variety when it comes to your tint brushes? Naomi reveals that she custom-cuts her tint brushes into various shapes, and then mixes them up as she applies color and highlights. This way, she says, you texturize your color as you would texturize hair, and it’s a great way to diminish the appearance of hard brush lines.

fun with glazeMost creative energy goes into designing the base color and highlights, and the glaze is often secondary to the process. But for the sake of creativity and staking your claim as a well-rounded professional, Patrick recommends getting creative with your glaze. For example, say you’ve finished your highlight application and you’re reaching for your golden blonde glaze. Mix up the golden blonde and in another bowl, mix a light natural blonde. Apply the golden hue to the ends and the lighter color at the base for a bit more color depth. Or, mix the golden blonde and a light violet blonde, take random sections, twist and apply one of the glazes, alternating the two glaze hues throughout the head. “It will look like celebrity extensions,” promises Patrick, “and it requires no extra time or money!”

Richard and I are celebrating our 20th anniversary this year (we took over a bankrupt salon in 1992) and each of us has enjoyed 30 years in this industry. During that time, we have seen a massive sea change in the business, like many of you, no doubt. When I started my training in 1982, perming made up the overwhelming majority of technical (chemical service) income, and weekly shampoo and sets represented the bulk of the remainder. Things have changed dramatically in the last decades. (Although as an aside, it’s interesting now that most forward-thinking salons are cultivating the retro “standing appointment” again. “Same time every Friday afternoon for Mrs. Jones” means guaranteed cash in the drawer after all, and ensures that future column time in the appointment book is sold with minimum effort!)

Perhaps the biggest evolution has been the massive increase in color services over the last three decades. Nowadays, most salons can see as much as 30 to 40 percent of their revenue coming from color or technical services, and the growing trend for color

specialists in the UK seems to further support the customer shift. Specialty color salons and color lounges are no longer just the domain of urban areas such as central London. Their growing popularity is how canny salon owners are proving their expertise over the home-hair color sector in this tough economic climate.

For us at Richard Ward in London, it’s vital that hairdressing expertise is specialized in specific fields so we can maximize our sales and capitalize on all that experience. However, perhaps surprisingly, some salons still struggle to find a way to cash-in on the staggering statistics which suggest 80 percent of women now color their hair in some way. Here are six strategies that have served our color business well and could easily be embraced by salons everywhere.

credentialed coloristsI am a big believer in educating colorists to “degree” level and then charging premium prices for their optimum technical knowledge and expertise. This establishes our point of difference from run-of-the-mill salons. Most of our UK suppliers offer comprehensive color knowledge in lengthy training programs. While these programs are valuable, though, they require time off the salon floor and investment from both the salon owner and the stylist. With price-tiered technicians, therefore, we can entice clients with all budgets to utilize our services. Think about diffusion brands and how they capture all markets; doing so in our price offerings means we can create mass appeal.

consistent consultationsWhatever their level of experience, making sure each team member carries out a detailed and concise consultation is key – nothing should be overlooked. Face shape, skin tone, cool/warm assessment (seasonal color palette), hair texture, density, natural base and percentage of grey analysis are vital considerations, as are establishing the client’s home care regimen and investigating their previous color history to ensure diagnosis is spot-on. We all know coloring isn’t an exact science, and clients are very often “a work in progress.” So making sure their bespoke treatment plan has been carefully ascertained, documented and visually verified is crucial. One woman’s blonde is another’s caramel, after all! Such prescriptive and detailed service, and attention to detail before the service even commences, justifies a premium price point for charged services.

adding valueWhen it comes to offering incentives, my belief is that they must only be for established and already loyal clients only, thus avoiding the “deal chasers.” We never discount our color

services for new customers. If we do some sort of incentive, it’s more likely to be adding value rather than cutting prices. For instance, receive a bespoke color gloss to refresh your color at home (continuing our home-care, all-encompassing customer service ethos)

rules for keeping your color business in the black

by Hellen Ward, Managing Director, Richard Ward Hair and Metrospa, London

success formulas from london’s “royal wedding” salon

“Nowadays, most salons can see as much as 30 to

40 percent of their revenue coming from color or technical services.”

Staggering statistics suggest 80 percent of

women now color their hair in some way.

“We never discount our color services for new

customers. If we do some sort of incentive, it’s more likely to be adding value

rather than cutting prices.”

when you book a color treatment, or some such promotion, is proven to be more effective than reducing prices and decreasing perceived value. Also, it is far less damaging to any salon brand long-term. Good customers rarely mind missing out on such an offer, but from experience, cutting prices is a slippery slope to mediocrity and a damaging route which is almost impossible to recover from.

rebook religiouslyTraining the team to listen for signals in the consultation is vital, and never more than when it comes to color. Based on those signals, it’s possible to suggest new ideas for a next visit before the client leaves, and this is a great way to ensure the stylist has hooked the client’s interest.

Rebooking is vital, too. With cutting and styling it may be more subjective, but with couture color, roots and regrowth isn’t a good look. So making sure clients are scheduled is a great way of ensuring precious rebookings and dollars are secure for future weeks and months. I tell the team to think of it like leaving the dentist; one wouldn’t bat an eyelid over being told authoritatively “I need to see you in six weeks” rather than the cold-selling and contrived “would you like to book your next appointment?” Our salon target occupancy rate is 70 percent booked, so stylists are taught the importance of providing the complete service and securing the vital rebooking that will fill their columns.

stay currentColor is ever evolving, so innovation is crucial for the on-trend salon owner. Being on top of what is on the

market and introducing new technologies are vital ways of ensuring clients’ demands are met in-salon, thus retaining their business. Because the home color market is offering increasingly “professional based” technologies, it’s vital we’re leading the way in what’s new and scientifically improved in the professional hairdressing industry. I think that color will continue to evolve, but it’s critical to remember we have to embrace what’s new and revolutionary to secure our business. Our clients are a savvy bunch these days—many know as much as we do about product formulation and innovation! So we need to be (as ever) on top of our game with an eye on what is happening in the future.

control inventoryStaying on top of our stock holding is vital in order to ensure we remain profitable. The guideline I use to keep my inventory costs in line is 10 percent of the net spend. Color houses bring out new color lines with alarming speed, and very quickly you can find that you’re housing four entire ranges of SKUs, making your 10 percent stock spend a dim and distant memory. A tight control on stock is vital, but it’s a fine line to tread because under-stocking finds technicians having to compromise on their color choices if the stock options aren’t available. And of course, where there is stock there is likely to be waste, too, as well as shrinkage (theft). At our salon we have a working daily stock that is issued by our technical director. All other stock is stored safely in our locked stock room—freely available if needed, but secure. This works well and enables us to keep to budgets. I’m also not reluctant to come forward to our key color supplier and ask them to replace lines and individual SKUs that aren’t selling with items that do.

Color is a vital part of most salons’ businesses and these businesses certainly can’t afford to shy away from the service. Taking the time and energy to invest in in-depth training to give your salon the confidence to offer technical excellence is always a good investment and one that, if trends continue, will be a sure-fire way to ensure your salon reaps the rewards.

With her husband Richard, Hellen Ward co-owns and serves as managing director of Richard Ward Hair and Metrospa in London.

The Richard Ward team caters to a wide range of celebrities and royals, including The Duchess of Cambridge (aka Princess Kate) and the Middleton family.

Hellen Ward

“Our salon target occupancy rate is 70 percent booked, so stylists are taught the

importance of securing the vital rebooking that will fill

their books.”

“Becoming An Effective Salon Manager” In this 90-minute webinar, you’ll learn: · 6 things every manager must do to successfully lead a team · 8 ways to provide a great salon experience to keep clients coming back · how to recognize and overcome barriers to success · 9 factors that make a great hairdresser · how to set and monitor key performance indicators

and much more!

Sign up for Hellen’s business webinar!Wednesday, May 30, 2012 | 6:00 pm CST (4:00 PT, 7:00 ET)

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