HAIR DESIGN - Thrust-jet · and reflect your personality. INDUSTRY CONNECTION: ... Hair design is the art of dressing and arranging hair to create temporary ... Create “S” pattern

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HAIR DESIGN

CONNECTING THEORY TO REAL-WORLD PRACTICELEARNING THE DIFFERENT WAYS TO DESIGN HAIR WILL HELP YOU:

10.1 HAIR DESIGN THEORYHAIR DESIGN ANALYSISTOOLS FOR HAIR DESIGNINGSETTINGBASE CONTROLFINISHINGHAIR DESIGN ESSENTIALSINFECTION CONTROL AND SAFETYHAIR DESIGN SERVICE ESSENTIALS

10.2 WET DESIGN TECHNIQUESFINGERWAVESPINCURLSSKIP WAVESROLLERSWET DESIGN PROCEDURE OVERVIEW

10.3 THERMAL DESIGN TECHNIQUESAIR FORMINGHAIR PRESSINGTHERMAL IRONSTHERMAL DESIGN

PROCEDURE OVERVIEW

10.4 LONG HAIR DESIGN THEORYLONG HAIR DESIGN ANALYSISCLIENT CONSIDERATIONSLONG HAIR DESIGNINGLONG HAIR DESIGN ESSENTIALSINFECTION CONTROL AND SAFETYLONG HAIR DESIGN SERVICE ESSENTIALS

PERSONAL CONNECTION:IMPROVE YOURSELF

Wear hair designs that are flattering and reflect your personality

INDUSTRY CONNECTION:BECOME A PROFESSIONAL

Attract and retain clientele by delivering consistently excellent hair designs

CLIENT CONNECTION:SERVE THE GUEST

Fulfill client needs by offering a wide array of hair design options

10.5 LONG HAIR DESIGN TECHNIQUESTWISTSKNOTSOVERLAPSBRAIDSLOOPS ROLLSLONG HAIR DESIGN

PROCEDURE OVERVIEW

265COSMETOLOGY FUNDAMENTALS

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THE SUCCESS OF ANY HAIR SERVICE LIES IN THE

DESIGN OF ITS FINISHED FORM, TEXTURE, DIRECTION

AND MOVEMENT

WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW: The theoretical foundations for a successful hair design service

The primary techniques for wet design

The primary techniques for thermal design

The theoretical knowledge required for a successful long hair design service

The primary techniques for long hair design

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10.1 HAIR DESIGN THEORYHair design is the art of dressing and arranging hair to create temporary changes

in the form and texture of the finished hair design

Form, shape, texture and direction

Basic level of observation

Look for:

•

•

Volume =

Indentation =

Detail level of observation

Look for:

•

•

•

Surface Texture:

Unactivated = Activated =

Types of texture:

Abstract level of observation

Look for:

•

•

•

Directional Changes:

HAIR DESIGN ANALYSIS

PRIMARY CONSIDERATIONS

FORM AND SHAPE

TEXTURE

DIRECTION

PAGES 313-320

22

HELPFUL HINTCombination of form, texture and color creates a final design; consider color placement in final design.


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10.1 HAIR DESIGN THEORYTOOLS FOR HAIR DESIGNING

SETTING

TWO TYPES OF SETTING

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PAGES 320-323

Procedural steps for wet and thermal design are very similar; the physical

actions and tools will vary, but the principles behind controlling the hair remain

the same

1

2

Setting

Setting

Select a tool from the list that is most commonly used to achieve the function below.

Distribute, mold, part and scale

Create “S” pattern or wave formation

Create temporary curvilinear texture patterns by applying heat; also known as marcel irons

Create curved end texture

Allow greatest airflow

Straighten tightly curled hair by applying heat and tension

Relax a set, backbrush or smooth the surface

Air form wet hair

Add shine and a range of support to hair

Backcomb and finish the hair

Create airflow, but also comb and curl the hair

Straighten and silk the hair temporarily

Create crimped texture when heated

Create a more structured finish to a wet design

Backcomb and smooth the hair

Distribute and mold the hair

Blow Dryers

Air Forming Brushes

Round Brushes

Cushion Brushes

Rollers

Curling Irons

Pressing Combs

Flat Irons

Undulating Irons

Crimping Irons

Hot Brushes Or Combs

Molding Combs

Master Sketcher Combs

Fine-Tooth Tail Combs

Wide-Tooth Tail Combs

Liquid Tools

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10.1 HAIR DESIGN THEORY

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PAGES 323-326

Straight shapes include ,

and

FIVE PROCEDURAL STEPS

FOR SETTING

POINT OF ORIGIN

TWO TYPES OF DISTRIBUTION

GEOMETRIC SHAPES

USED IN DESIGN

STRAIGHT SHAPES

PARALLEL DISTRIBUTION RADIAL DISTRIBUTION

2 MOLD Molding, also known as shaping, is designing hair in or lines to create a pattern

3

SCALE Carving of shapes in the proper predetermined size and to establish the lines of the design; also known as

DISTRIBUTE Distribution is the the hair is or dispersed over the of the head

RECTANGLE TRIANGLE DIAMOND/KITE TRAPEZOIDDraw the distribution

patterns for these

straight shapes

1

•

•

•

•


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10.1 HAIR DESIGN THEORYPAGES 326-328

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Curved shapes or sections include ,

and

Draw the parting pattern for the following shapes.

CURVATURE SHAPES

PARTING PATTERNS

OBLONG EXPANDED OVALOVAL

Draw the distribution

patterns for these

curvature shapes

CIRCLE HALF CIRCLE EXPANDED CIRCLE

PART Partings are lines that subdivide shapes or sections to help distribute and control the hair after and

Subsections are often called

4

PARALLEL

RADIAL

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TOOL DIAMETER AND CURL SIZE

THREE CURL COMPONENTS

BASE CONTROL

Size of the curl is determined by of the tool or pincurl

Tools with larger diameters = waves

Tools with smaller diameter = tighter or curls

REFERS TO 1.

How will these five procedural steps for setting help you become a better

hair designer?

Refers to: 1.

2.

Affects the amount of or achieved

and is used within straight or curvature shapes to create 3-D forms

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PAGES 328-329

HELPFUL HINTThere are three components of every curl, which are basically the same regardless of the tool or technique used to create it.

APPLY TOOLS Hair is set by applying a tool such as a roller, round brush or curling iron to produce desired amount of volume, and desired degree of texture and

5

BASE STEM (ARC) CIRCLE


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PAGES 329-330

STRAIGHT VOLUME AND

INDENTATION BASE CONTROL

STRAIGHT VOLUME

STRAIGHT INDENTATION

BASE SIZE

STRAIGHT VOLUME TOOL POSITION

Straight volume and straight indentation base controls are performed

within straight shapes such as rectangle, triangle and trapezoid

Position of tool in relation to base will affect the lift or volume as well as base

strength (support)

TOOL POSITION BASE SIZE PROJECTION ANGLE DESCRIPTION EFFECT

On base (Full base)

1x Tool sits completely within the base

Half-off base (Half base)

1x, 1½x, 2x

Tool sits half-off and half-on the bottom parting

Off base 1x, 1½x, 2x

Tool sits completely off the bottom parting

Underdirected 1½x, 2x

Tool sits in the lower portion of the base, but not on or below the parting

Overdirected (Volume base)

1½x, 2x

Tool sits in the upper portion of the base, but not on or above the parting

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Position of tool and size of base influence amount of hollow space or flatness

Notice that the tool positions in the chart above are arranged from easiest

to most complex. Which of these tool positions do you think you will use

most often?

Used to create 3-dimensional forms

STRAIGHT INDENTATION

TOOL POSITION

CURVATURE VOLUME AND

INDENTATION BASE CONTROL

CURVATURE VOLUME

CURVATURE INDENTATION

BASE SIZES

PAGE 331

TOOL POSITION BASE SIZE PROJECTION ANGLE DESCRIPTION EFFECT

On base (Full base)

1x Tool sits completely on its base, rolled in an upward direction

Half-off base (Half base)

1x, 1½x, 2x

Tool sits half on and half off its base, rolled in an upward direction


Tool sits completely off its base, rolled in an upward direction


Tool sits within the base close to the bottom of the parting, rolled in an upward direction


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PAGES 332-333

Tool position changes when

setting curvature indentation;

base controls are the same

curvature pincurls

Curved partings are used for setting pincurls within curvature shapes;

base controls are the same as for rollers

Air forming volume and indentation are controlled by three factors:

1.

2.

3.

CURVATURE VOLUME TOOL POSITION

CURVATURE INDENTATION

TOOL POSITION

CURVATURE PINCURLS

CURVATURE VOLUME AND

INDENTATION AIR FORMING

TOOL POSITION BASE SIZE PROJECTION ANGLE LABEL THE ILLUSTRATION

On base 1x 45° above center


90° from center

Half-off base 1x, 1½x, 2x

90° from center


45° below center

HELPFUL HINTIn summary, base size and tool position determine the amount of volume or indentation in a hair design.

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Also referred to as ; steps are similar for rollers,

pincurls or thermal designing

• Address blending

• Create support

• Add volume

• Define form

• Add finishing touches

Briefly describe the purpose of each step of the finishing phase of hair design.

FINISHING

FINISHING CHECKLIST

FIVE STEPS FOR FINISHING

PAGES 333-334

5

1 RELAX

2 DRY MOLD

3 BACKBRUSH/BACKCOMB (OPTIONAL)

DETAIL

4 DEFINE THE FORM


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PAGES 340-341

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Wet hair refers to the area of hair designing in which the hair is manipulated into

the desired shapes and movements while wet and then allowed to dry

Art of shaping and hair into graceful

Basic tools: , ,

Created by molding two complete alternating shapes that

are joined by a

Pincurls are used primarily to create temporary effects or specialized closeness

and allow a wide range of movement; not recommended for tightly curled hair

WET DESIGN

FINGERWAVES

FINGERWAVING

PINCURLS

COMPONENTS OF A PINCURL

LABEL THE COMPONENTS

OF A PINCURL

10.2 WET DESIGN TECHNIQUES

HELPFUL HINTIf pincurls are not smooth, the resulting curl or wave will not be smooth.

PINCURL BASE PINCURL STEM (ARC) PINCURL CIRCLE

Pinching or pushing the ridge will create overdirection of the wave and is not recommended. Fingerwaves with low ridges are known as shadow waves.

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Primary reason for using various base shapes when working with pincurls is to

avoid in finished hair design

1. 2. 3.

The sizes of pincurl bases are usually related to the diameter of the circle which,

in turn, determines the resulting wave or curl

BASE SHAPES FOR PINCURLS

THREE COMMON PINCURL BASE SHAPES

BASE CONTROL FOR PINCURLS

STRAIGHT PINCURLS

3 TYPES OF CURVATURE PINCURLS

PAGES 342-34510.2 WET DESIGN TECHNIQUES

FLAT VOLUME INDENTATION

• Base, stem and circle are flat

• Used for

• Also known as or sculpted curls

• Base and stem are

• Circle turns under

• Create and height indentation

• Base is

• Stem (arc) and circle are lifted

• Create hollow and flare

BASE CONTROL POSITION EFFECT

On-base pincurl (Full base)

Entire circle of curl positioned on base

Half-off base pincurl (Half stem)

Half of circle is positioned below the base

Off-base pincurl (Full stem)

Stem and circle are positioned below the base

Underdirected Circle sits on the lower portion of base

Overdirected (Volume base)

Circle sits in upper portion of the base


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Skip waves are composed of two alternating oblongs connected by a ridge; one

oblong is molded and one is set

An example of a skip wave is a wave pattern that combines fingerwaves and

flat pincurls

Used to set hair and can achieve many of the same effects achieved with pincurls

1.

2.

Chosen according to desired curl pattern

Cylindrical rollers are usually used within straight shapes such as rectangles

and triangles

PAGES 345-347

PINCURLS: HALF-CIRCLE

AND HALF-OVAL

SKIP WAVES

RIDGE CURL

ROLLERS2 REASONS FOR ROLLERS

ROLLER DIAMETER

ROLLERS IN STRAIGHT SHAPES

10.2 WET DESIGN TECHNIQUESCURL WITHIN HALF-CIRCLE CURL WITHIN HALF-OVAL

RECTANGLE TRIANGLE

Rectangle: Use rollers of length

Triangle: Use rollers that progress from to or maybe use a bricklay pattern

FIRST: Oblong is molded (skipped)

NEXT: Oblong is set with pincurls or rollers

FINALLY: Achieves wide, deep flowing waves

1

2

3

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Curvature shapes use cone-shaped rollers

Also known as conical or rollers

ROLLERS IN CURVATURE SHAPES

PAGES 347-34810.2 WET DESIGN TECHNIQUES

CURVATURE SHAPES POSITION TO ACHIEVE APPLIED USING

Fringe area and/or sides

Curvature volume that directs equal amounts of hair off the face and on the face, with equal radial lines

Equal length rollers positioned one diameter away from a single point of origin


Larger curls that extend the curvature direction from the circle or half-circle while maintaining equal radial lines

Inner and Outer Technique

Inner circle set as a normal half-circle

Outer circle set using the inner circle point of origin

Rollers are positioned within their base, versus one diameter away from the point of origin for the inner circle


Curvature volume that directs hair with unequal radial lines

Unequal length rollers positioned one diameter away from a single point of origin

Top front or sides of the head

Curvature movement that travels toward the back

Indirect Technique

Each roller set from its own point of origin that is established at the front bottom corner of the previously set roller

Rollers positioned one diameter away from their point of origin

Anywhere on the head in any direction

A strong wave pattern Rollers positioned diagonally and set from multiple points of origin

Volume oblongs begin at the convex end

Indentation oblongs begin at the concave end


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10.3 THERMAL DESIGN TECHNIQUES

Thermal designing is the technique of drying and/or designing hair by using a

hand-held dryer while simultaneously using your fingers, a variety of brushes,

pressing comb and/or a thermal curling iron

1. Hydrogen bonds are by the

of thermal service

2. Protein chains shift and accept new

3. Heat is removed and hair cools

4. Bonds are

Also called

• Use heat-protective styling lotion

• Remove approximately 90% of water before thermal designing

• Dry on high setting; design on medium setting; set on cool setting

• Direct airflow in the direction of cuticle scales

• Keep dryer 3" to 5" (7.5 cm to 12.5 cm) from hair

• Use caution with damaged and bleached hair

Dries hair as you change form, direction and texture

of the hair

Diameter chosen influences pattern

THERMAL DESIGNING

HOW THERMAL DESIGN WORKS

AIR FORMING AIR FORMING GUIDELINES

ROUND BRUSH AIR FORMING

FINGER STYLING

SCRUNCHING

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PAGES 351-354

Select three air-forming guidelines from above and discuss with a classmate why

each of them is important.

HELPFUL HINTHair needs to cool completely prior to brushing or combing.

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Hair pressing is a form of temporarily straightening curly and tightly curled hair;

also known as

1. Shampoo and

2. Air form dry with to reduce natural curl pattern

3. Apply protective or

4. Use hot pressing comb or silking iron on

sections of hair to further straighten the curl

Analyzing the type and condition of the hair is important because pressing can

require longer periods of heat; avoid pressing chemically treated hair

Tool used to apply heat and tension to temporarily straighten tightly curled hair;

use on dry hair

1.

2.

Heated of comb is pressed against hair

PAGES 354-355

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HAIR PRESSING

HAIR PRESSING STEPS

HAIR PRESSING

CONSIDERATIONS

PRESSING COMB

TWO TYPES OF PRESSING COMBS

PRESSING COMB ACTION

HELPFUL HINTStove-heated thermal irons need to be checked for temperature by testing on a piece of white paper towel; if paper scorches after 5 seconds need to cool iron.

FINE TEXTURE MEDIUM TEXTURE COARSE TEXTURE OR TIGHTLY CURLED

Must be treated gently

Less and pressure to avoid breakage

Least difficult to press

Requires no particular precautions

Can be resistant

Can tolerate heat and pressure

SOFT PRESS: Pressing hair once with less pressure and heat

HARD OR DOUBLE PRESS: Pressing the hair twice with more pressure and heat


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THERMAL IRONS

TYPES OF THERMAL IRONS

MARCEL GRATEAU

THERMAL CURLING

ELECTRIC CURLING IRON

CURLING IRON TECHNIQUES

BASE TO ENDS

ENDS TO BASE

Thermal irons are used to create complete designs and to impact

patterns on dry hair

Name 4 types of thermal irons:

iron iron

iron iron

Introduced first thermal iron in 1875; some of the most frequently used irons are

called “marcel curling irons”

Process of adding curl texture to the hair by applying to

hair from either an electric or stove-heated curling iron

Contains heating element controlled by thermostat that maintains

temperature

Various texture patterns can be achieved by varying position of iron along the

hair

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PAGES 355-358

Rod

Shell handle

Barrel, or rod

Groove, or shell

Label the parts of a curling iron:

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PAGES 358-359

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CURLING IRON TECHNIQUES (CONT’D)

ENDS

MARCEL

SPIRAL

SPECIAL-EFFECTS

THERMAL IRONS

THERMAL IRON CONSIDERATIONS

CLEANING

HEAT

STRAIGHTENING/FLAT IRON CRIMPING IRON UNDULATING IRON

Parts:

Function:

Parts:

Function:

Parts:

Function:

Allow you to create texture other than traditional curvilinear, curled textures


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Long hair designs are composed with attention to the elements of form, texture

and color, and are 3-dimensional

Placement of mass, or within the design

Focal Point:

Unactivated (smooth) and activated (patterned)

Loops = texture

Tightly formed twists = texture

Established by position of or

Considerations to keep in mind as you communicate and work with your client

Proportional relationship between size, shape, texture and color should be

considered in a well-balanced long hair design.

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LONG HAIR DESIGN ANALYSIS

BASIC LEVELS OF OBSERVATION

FORM OR SHAPE

TEXTURE

DIRECTION

CLIENT CONSIDERATIONS

PROPORTION & BALANCE

10.4 LONG HAIR DESIGN THEORY

HELPFUL HINTDirections within the form can be identified as clockwise, counterclockwise, vertical, horizontal and/or diagonal; can lead your eye rhythmically throughout the design.

DETAIL =

ABSTRACT =

BASIC = and

With a classmate or partner, discuss why the following considerations are important to a successful long hair design.

1. Facial features

2. Body structure

3. Hair length, density and texture

4. Occasion

5. Wardrobe

6. Impression

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PAGES 366-369

Follow a step-by-step procedure to ensure control of the form as it is

being created:

5 DETAILIncludes personalizing the form and

LONG HAIR DESIGNING

BACKCOMBING/BACKBRUSHING

SECURING THE DESIGN

10.4 LONG HAIR DESIGN THEORY

1

2

3

4

DISTRIBUTEDefines overall of design; performed throughout the long hair service

SECTIONUsed for the purpose of ; can use ponytails or no ponytails

PARTUsed to hair and in larger sections for control; important in achieving smooth clean lines

APPLYUse twists, knots, overlap, braids, loops or rolls; determines whether texture is smooth or


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Identify the long hair design technique with its picture and description:

Braids

Knots

Loops

Overlaps

Rolls

Twists

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Hair wrapped or wound within itself; can be cylindrical or conical

One, two or three strands of hair intertwined and/or rotated to form a rope-like appearance

Folding, bending or encircling of hair strands, which are secured in a curvature shape

Interlacing or tying together of a strand or strands of hair

Two strands crossed to the opposite side, in a downward or upward direction, to create a crisscrossed effect

Crossing or weaving of three or more strands of hair

PAGES 373-37810.5 LONG HAIR DESIGN TECHNIQUES

LONG HAIR TECHNIQUES

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HOW DID YOU DO THAT? In the space provided below, describe the components used to create each design.

YOU BE THE JUDGEUsing your judgment skills, offer comments on the following statements. Share and discuss with a classmate the reasons that led to your choices.

1. What is the MOST POPULAR hair design worn today?

Why is it so popular?

2. What is the MOST DIFFICULT hair design for you to create?

Why is it so difficult?

3. What is the EASIEST hair design for you to create?

Why is it the easiest?

4. Which hair design service do you feel will be the most FINANCIALLY rewarding for you?

Why will it be financially rewarding?


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IT’S YOUR TURN Using the 7 facial shapes provided, sketch a design that best suits each shape. Colored pencils allow you to add

color to your creation.

Remember your fundamentals of hair designing.

• Form and Shape

• Direction

• Molding

• Air Forming

• Wet Design

• Texture

• Distribution

• Sectioning

• Thermal Design

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SKILLS BOOSTERSoon you will be putting the fundamentals just learned into action by practicing the related procedures located in A

Designer’s Approach program. As you review the ideas presented in this chapter consider the following points as a way

of boosting your skills.

1. Visualize success:

If you could change a celebrity’s hair design, which celebrity would you choose and how would you change the design?

2. Practice dealing with clients personally:

Next to each of the technical terms, list words you would use to describe these terms to your client. • Volume • Indentation

• Lift • Scrunching

3. Set a goal for excellence:

How long will it take you to perform your first thermal design?

TALKING POINTS Your next challenge is to be ready to talk about some of the important ideas in this chapter. Follow the directions listed

next to each box. Then practice talking about your ideas with others.

Describe an invention that

you have just created to use

when designing hair.

Create a promotional ad

for bridal parties regarding

hair design.

Create a promotional ad

inviting prom attendees to

visit the salon for the most

current prom designs.


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THE CHALLENGENow it’s time to see how well you know your new material. First answer these questions. Then use the Memory Box

that follows to check yourself.

1. What are three primary considerations in analyzing a hair design?

2. Name two types of distribution .

3. Define the following parts of a pincurl.

Base:

Stem:

Circle (arc):

4. Base sizes are determined by the size of the tool being used. What are the most commonly used base sizes?

5. TRUE FALSE An on-base, straight volume tool position will give more volume and will have a stronger base

strength than a half-off base straight volume tool position.

6. In what area of hair designing is the hair manipulated into the desired shapes and movements while hair is wet

and then allowed to dry?

7. The technique of drying and/or designing hair by using a hand-held dryer while simultaneously using your fingers, a

variety of brushes, pressing comb and/or a thermal curling iron is known as .

8. Describe how to clean styling residue from a thermal iron?

9. TRUE FALSE The position of volume within a long hair design becomes the focal point.

10. Name three techniques used in long hair design?

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SHOW YOU KNOW Sketch hair designs from the following decades. Two have been done for you. Explain your sketches.

MEMORY BOX Look up each answer on the corresponding page in the Cosmetology Fundamentals coursebook. Check “GOT IT” for all correct answers and “NOT YET” for all incorrect responses. Record all of your correct responses in the “I KNOW” column. After correcting incorrect answers, record all of your corrected responses in the “I NEED TO STUDY” column. That way you know exactly what to review before continuing in this study guide.

NOT YET I NEED TO STUDYI KNOWGOT IT

KNOW CHART

PAGE 315

PAGE 324

PAGE 329

PAGE 330

PAGE 330

PAGE 340

PAGE 351

PAGE 359

PAGE 363

PAGE 373

1

10

8

6

4

9

7

5

3

2

1900s 1920s 1930s

1970s1960s

1940s 1950s

1990s1980s The Future!


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KNOW List the procedural steps for wet setting.

COMPREHEND Explain the purpose of scaling within a wet set design.

APPLY Draw and label the straight shapes used in hair design.

ANALYZE Compare the effect of on-base and off-base tool positions for straight volume base control.

SYNTHESIZE Create a promotional ad for the upcoming prom season that advertises your specialty in long hair design.

EVALUATE In your own words explain why the three levels of basic observation are so important in hair designing.

KNOWLEDGE GRID Start at the top of the Knowledge Grid and work your way down, answering each question to check your

understanding of Chapter 10, Hair Design. The questions found here will help you deepen your understanding,

build self-confidence and increase your awareness of different ways of thinking about a subject.

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All designs will be judged for:

DESIGN

TECHNIQUE

EXPLANATION TOTAL POINTS

A CLASS ACTNow that you have completed your work in Hair Design, it’s time to demonstrate your creative talents in a

class competition.

Each member of the class will create an entry for “Best Hair Design.” Students will plan, sketch, demonstrate and

explain their creations.

Remember: Before starting you must sketch the design, list key features to be explained and name your creation!

KEY FEATURES

DESIGN NAME

SKETCH

POINTS1 2 4 6 93 5 87 10


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BRAIN CONDITIONERMultiple choice. Circle the correct answer.

1. Three levels of observation used to analyze a hair design are basic, detail and: a. abstract b. texture c. detail d. form

2. Which of the following tools consists of two flat plates that are heated and used to straighten and silk the hair? a. flat iron b. pressing comb c. crimping iron d. molding comb

3. Which type of comb is generally used for backcombing and smoothing the surface of the hair? a. molding b. Master Sketcher c. fine-tooth tail d. hot comb

4. The direction the hair is combed or dispersed over the curve of the head is known as: a. scale b. distribution c. mold d. part

5. The process of combing wet hair into the desired position is referred to as molding or: a. scaling b. parting c. shaping d. setting

6. The point of origin is the place where: a. curl ends b. motion ends c. motion begins d. design ends

7. Which type of distribution refers to straight or curved lines that originate from many points of origin and travel at an equal distance from one another? a. curved b. radial c. parallel d. triangle

8. When using radial distribution the hair is distributed from : a. one point of origin b. parallel points of origin c. no point of origin d. multiple points of origin

9. Carving out shapes in the proper predetermined size and proportion is known as: a. scaling b. molding c. distribution d. parting

10. Horizontal partings are generally used within what shape? a. rectangle b. trapezoid c. circle d. oblong

11. An example of a straight shape used in sectioning the hair is a(n): a. triangle b. oblong c. oval d. circle

12. Lines that subdivide shapes or sections to help distribute and control the hair are called: a. roller lengths b. forms c. partings d. bases

13. What is the area between straight or curved partings within a shape, or the section of hair on which the roller, thermal iron or round brush is placed? a. base b. stem c. circle d. arc

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14. What part of the curl determines the amount of movement of the curl? a. base b. stem c. circle d. shape

15. What determines the size of the circle of a curl? a. stem diameter b. base diameter c. tool diameter d. tool length

16. Which diameter size means the area between partings is exactly the same as the diameter of the roller? a. 1x b. 1½x c. 2x d. 2½x

17. An on-base tool position will result in the strongest base strength and the: a. maximum volume b. least strength c. smallest diameter d. least volume

18. Which of the following tool positions will result in the least volume and the least base strength? a. on base b. half-off base c. off base d. underdirected

19. The tool sits in the lower portion of the base, but not on or below the parting in which of the following tool positions? a. on base b. half-off base c. overdirected d. underdirected

20. What phase of hair design is also known as the “comb-out”? a. setting b. applying c. air forming d. finishing

21. Using a cushion brush to brush all the way to the scalp to integrate the bases is called: a. relaxing b. indentation c. sectioning d. detailing

22. Backbrushing is used to: a. decrease height b. decrease volume c. increase height d. loosen the design

23. To avoid smoke or burning during a hair pressing service use: a. more pressure b. less pressure c. more pressing oil d. less pressing oil

24. Where is a nonflammable comb positioned when performing a thermal design? a. underneath iron b. on top of barrel c. on top of shell handle d. under shell handle

25. What is created by two complete oblong shapes that are joined and connected by a ridge? a. a pincurl b. a flat pincurl c. a skip wave d. a fingerwave

26. Which of the following procedures is NOT a part of wet design? a. fingerwaves b. skip waves c. loops d. pincurls

27. The width and strength of a wave are determined by the size of what part of the pincurl? a. base b. arc c. circle d. stem

28. The beginning portion of the strand that demonstrates the direction of the curl is the: a. base b. circle c. stem d. ridge


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29. A closed circle will produce a: a. smaller and stronger wave c. larger and stronger wave b. larger and weaker wave d. weaker and larger wave

30. Alternating triangle base shapes helps to avoid: a. blending b. splits c. volume d. backend

31. Pincurls that produce lift or a strong curl effect, or when used in a series create a strong wave line are: a. on-base b. half-off base c. off base d. underdirected

32. Flat pincurls begin at which end of a shaping? a. convex b. concave c. closed d. lift

33. Which curls are large, stand-up pincurls that achieve a similar effect to hair wound around a roller, but result in less volume? a. barrel b. indentation c. flat d. fingerwave

34. Three common curvature pincurls are flat, volume and: a. indentation b. stand-up c. cascade d. barrel

35. Which type of pincurl is used to create hollow space or flare? a. indentation b. flat c. volume d. skip waves

36. Which of the following curls is another name for a flat curl? a. fingerwave b. volume c. sculpture d. indentation

37. Which of the following curls is used for adding fullness and height? a. volume b. flat c. carved d. indentation

38. A wave pattern that combines fingerwaves and flat pincurls is a: a. ridge curl b. skip wave c. connecting ridge d. volume wave

39. The technique of drying and/or designing hair by using a hand-held dryer while simultaneously using your fingers and a variety of tools is known as: a. wet design b. directional designing c. thermal designing d. form designing

40. The blow dryer attachment that fits on the nozzle and allows control of air flow to a small area is called: a. diffuser b. concentrator c. airflow control d. temperature control

41. Before brushing or combing the hair after a thermal procedure, make sure the hair is: a. moist b. cool c. warm d. shampooed

42. Pressing the hair twice with more pressure and heat during a hair pressing service is referred to as a: a. soft press b. curl press c. hard press d. stove press

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43. Checking the temperature by testing the tool on a piece of white paper towel is performed for: a. stove-heated thermal irons c. electric thermal irons b. pressing combs d. blow dryers

44. Which of the following long hair techniques consists of hair that is wrapped or wound within itself? a. loop b. roll c. twist d. overlap

45. Which of the following long hair techniques consists of an interlacing or tying together of a strand or strands of the hair? a. knot b. roll c. twist d. overlap

FINAL REVIEW Check your answers as you did before. Place a check mark next to the page number for any incorrect answer.

On the lines on the next page, jot down topics that you still need to review.

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Notes to Myself Experts tell us that it is important to summarize your feelings and reactions about what you are learning. Note

especially things that surprised you, things you found difficult to learn, suggestions and ideas you received from

friends that helped make learning this chapter easier and more enjoyable.

MY REFLECTIONS ABOUT HAIR DESIGN

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77

Things to Do

HAIR DESIGN REVIEW

HAIR DESIGN ANALYSIS

TOOLS FOR HAIR DESIGNING

SETTING

BASE CONTROL

FINISHING

HAIR DESIGN ESSENTIALS

INFECTION CONTROL AND SAFETY

HAIR DESIGN SERVICE ESSENTIALS

FINGERWAVES

PINCURLS

SKIP WAVES

ROLLERS

• Form is the result of volume and indentation• Texture expands the form or changes the direction of the hair

• Direction is identified by how hair moves away from the face

• Blow dryers, brushes, combs, rollers, clips and liquid tools

• Distribute, mold, scale, part and apply

• The size of the base in relation to the diameter of the tool, and the position of the tool in relation to the base

• Affects the amount of volume or closeness

• Relax, dry mold, backbrush/backcomb, define the form, detail

• A successful hair design service depends on: • Organizing and selecting appropriate products, tools and equipment • Practicing infection control and safety precautions • Ensuring an exceptional guest experience:

Connect, Consult, Create and Complete

• Created by molding two complete alternating oblong shapes that are joined and connected by a ridge

• Used to create temporary effects or specialized closeness

• Wave pattern that combines fingerwaves and flat pincurls

• Used to set the hair with tension for longer-lasting results

HAIR DESIGN THEORY

WET DESIGNTECHNIQUES


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HAIR DESIGN REVIEW (CONT’D)

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GROW WHAT YOU KNOWDiscuss what you learned about each of these topics.

AIR FORMING

HAIR PRESSING

THERMAL IRONS

LONG HAIR DESIGN ANALYSIS

CLIENT CONSIDERATIONS

LONG HAIR DESIGNING

LONG HAIR DESIGN ESSENTIALS

INFECTION CONTROL AND SAFETY

LONG HAIR DESIGN SERVICE ESSENTIALS

TWISTS

KNOTS

OVERLAPS

BRAIDS

LOOPS

ROLLS

LONG HAIR DESIGNPROCEDURE OVERVIEW

LONG HAIR DESIGN TECHNIQUES

LONG HAIR DESIGN THEORY

THERMAL DESIGNTECHNIQUES

• Dries the hair quickly to change the form, direction and texture of the design

• Temporarily straightens curly and tightly curled hair• A pressing oil is applied to the hair and then a hot

pressing comb or silking iron is used to further straighten the curl

• Adds temporary curl texture to the hair• Consists of four parts: rod handle, shell handle, barrel and groove

• Placement of volume determines the form; texture is influenced by technique; and direction moves clockwise, counterclockwise, vertical, horizontal and/or diagonal

• Facial features, body structure, hair length, hair density and texture, occasion, wardrobe and impression

• Distribute, section, part, apply and detail

• See Hair Design Essentials on previous page

• One, two or three strands intertwined and/or rotated to form a rope-like appearance

• Interlacing or tying together of a strand or strands of hair

• Two strands crossed to opposite sides in a downward or upward direction to create a crisscrossed effect

• Crossing or weaving of three or more strands of hair

• Folding, bending or encircling of hair strands, which are then secured in a curvature shape

• Hair that is wrapped or wound within itself

• Distribute, section, part, apply and detail

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