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6.2. Hair growth promotersThe causes of male scalp hair loss
(alopecia) are: (1) reduced hair follicle function due toeffect of
male hormones, (2) reduced physiological function of scalp, (3)
reduced metabolismfunction of hair follicle and hair bulb, (4)
reduced blood flow due to scalp tension,
(5) poor nutrition, (6) stress, (7) side effect of medicines,
(8) genetic reasons, etc.,(see Chapter 2). However, the reasons for
hair loss are not completely understood.
Consequently, hair growth promoters include various compounds to
alleviate thesecauses of hair loss. Most products focus on
components that stimulate the activity of thehair matrix and blood
capillaries. These compounds promote hair growth by
supplyingnutrients through promotion of blood circulation and
activating the hair follicles in thecatagen and telogen phases.
Hair growth promoters are classified according to their active
ingredients and purpose.6.2.1. VasodilatorsVasodilators which
improve the flow of blood in the peripheral blood vessels are
formulatedin hair-care cosmetics. They can be classified into
blood-flow stimulants whichrestore blood circulation and
hair-follicle stimulants which improve secondary blood
circulation.6.2.1.1. Blood flow stimulantsThe principal blood
flow stimulants used in hair growth promoters are swertia
extract(swertinogen), cepharanthine, vitamin E and its derivatives,
y-orizanol, etc.Swertia extract is an extract containing bitter
glycosides of Swertia japonica, Makino,a member of the Gentian
family; its principal component is swertinogen. It promotesblood
flow by dilating the fine capillaries in the skin thereby supplying
nutrients andenergy to the hair matrix.Cepharanthine is an alkaloid
extracted from the root of Stephania cepharanthia,Hayata, a member
of the Tudurafuji family. It functions by dilating the blood
capillaries.Vitamin E works directly on the skin blood supply and
acts by promoting blood flowthrough vasodilatation of the blood
capillaries.
6.2.1.2. Hair follicle stimulantsThe principle hair follicle
stimulants are tinctura capsici, tinctura zingiberis,
tincturacantharidis, nicotinic acid benzyl ester, etc.
Tinctura capsici is an ethanol extract of the fruit of the chili
pepper. Capsicum annuum,Linneus. The spicy component, capsaicin,
promotes hair growth by stimulatingthe hair root.Tinctura
zingiberis is an ethanol extract of the root of Zingiber
officinale, Roscoe. Thestimulants, zingerone and shogaol both
promote hair growth by stimulating the hair root.
6.2.2. Nourishing agentsVitamins and amino acids are used to
prevent the undernourishment of cells surrounding152New cosmetic
science
the hair matrix due to insufficient blood circulation around the
dermal papilla and hairfollicle.6.2.2.1. VitaminsThe principal
vitamins are A, Bj, B2, Bg, E, E derivatives, pantothenic acid and
its derivatives,and biotin.
6.2.2.2. Amino acidsThe principal amino acids are cystine,
cysteine, methionine, serine, leucine, tryptophanas well as amino
acid extracts, etc.6.2.3. Estrogens (follicle hormone)Since male
sex hormones (androgens) are one of the main causes of male scalp
hair loss(alopecia), female sex hormones (estrogens) can be used to
counter their effect.The main ones are estradiol, ethynyl
estradiol, etc.
6.2.4. Hair root activating agentsHair root activating agents
improve the function of the hair matrix when reduced by the
