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Hair Care …from needs to solutions
Ajinomoto, where Amino Acids are the Essence of our Personal Care
AGENDA
Hair
Cleansing
Conditioning
2
Hair - definition
Hair is an important biomaterial primarily composed of protein,
notably keratin.
Attitudes towards hair, such as hairstyles and hair removal, vary widely across different cultures and historical periods, but it is often used to indicate a person's personal beliefs or social position, such as their age, gender, or religion.
Ajinomoto provides
solutions to make your
hair cleaner, healthier
and softer
3
Healthy
AGENDA
Hair
Cleansing Conditioning
4
Why do we need cleansing ?
As a social indicator of person's personal beliefs or social position,
people need to clean their hair for different reasons :
to feel comfortable in their social relationship
after sport activities
to fight sebum excess
to treat scalp issues
…
…with more and more worries regarding human health, environment and costs
5
H2N COO-
COO-
RCOOH
Glutamic acid : sugar molasses fermentation
Fatty acid : Coconut, Palm
Glycine : essential amino acid
Alanine : essential amino acid
+
+
+
6
Ajinomoto solutions
®
®
®
X = Counter ion S = Na+ (Sodium)
K = K+ (Potassium) T = Triethanolamine (TEA+) A = acid (H+)
7
nM+
R1 H N
O-
O
O
COO-
• Amisoft® WX-YZ
W = Acyl radical Cocoyl Lauroyl Myristoyl Palmoyl (G) Stearoyl (H)
Y = Degree of neutralization 1 = mono
2 = di Z = Physical Form 1 = powder / flake (F) 2 = liquid (aqueous solution)
• Amilite® AWX-YZ and Amilite® GWX-YZ
H
R N
O
C O O
H R N
O
C O O M+ M+
N=1 N=1
Nomenclature
8
Nomenclature
Counter ion Acyl chain Amino Acid
Sodium Cocoyl
Glycinate
Sodium Cocoyl
Alaninate
Disodium Cocoyl
Glutamate
Sodium Lauroyl
GlutamateLauroyl
Glycine
Alanine
Glutamic
acid
Glutamic
acidAmisoft LS
Sodium
Sodium
Sodium
Sodium
Composition
Amilite GCS
Amilite ACS
Amisoft CS
Cocoyl
Cocoyl
Cocoyl
Trade Name INCI
9
pH 4.5-6.0
Moisturized
Fresh
Feel
pH
R
AMILITE
ACS-12 R
AMILITE
GCS-12K R
Different pH Range for optimal foam - Different Feel
pH 6.0-8.0
pH 7.0
Acidic
How to choose ?
R AMISOFT
ECS-22SB R
AMISOFT
CS-22 R
pKa Amisoft<pKa Amilite
10
Mild and natural Amisoft range Concept 1: natural cleansing Amisoft CS-22 “Purely natural” ECOCERT Concept 2: sulfate free Amisoft ECS-22 SB “Mild and economical” Concept 3: lower sulfate, mildness Amisoft ECS-22 SB as additive Luxury dense foam Amilite series
How to choose ?
11
Cell toxicity test Eye irritation test Biodegradability test Wet combability test Damage prevention Protein loss prevention Sensory test
Good candidates for hair care application Recommended concentration 0.2-3.0%
Mild and Natural - Amisoft
- 12 -
0
25
50
75
100
Concentration of test substance
Via
bilit
y (
% o
f c
on
tro
l)
NR50
Cell toxicity test
Human keratinocyte
Control
Surfactant solution
Mildness
Mildness/Hypoallergenicity
Cell toxicity test (on keratinocyte)
13
0 100 200 300
Sodium laureth sulfate
Sodium lauryl sulfate
Sodium lauryl phosphate
Sodium laurate
sodium cocoyl isethionate
Sodium methyl lauroyl taurate
Amisoft LS-11
NR50 (ppm)
Severe cell toxicity Mild cell toxicity
14
before wash
AMISOFT® MK-11
Potassium Myristate
10 times
washing
by Video microscope
Technical Data Sheet No. 0101-1370, 1390
Mildness
Eye irritation test
15
Mildness/Hypoallergenicity
Biodegradability
16
Evaluation of the biodegradability with OECD method
AMISOFT® LS-11
Sodium Laureth Sulfate
Sodium Laurate
Aniline
0
20
40
60
80
100
0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14
Days
Bio
deg
rad
ab
ilit
y(B
OD
) (%
) B
iod
eg
rad
ab
ilit
y B
OD
(%
)
17
Wet combability
Without Amisoft With Amisoft
Sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) 27% 34.0 24.0
Cocamido propyl betaine (CAPB) 31% 10.0 10.0
Amisoft® CS-22 30% - 11.0
Other Ingredients 6.7 6.7
Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium 10.0 10.0
pH adjuster q.s. q.s.
Water balance balance
TOTAL 100.0 100.0
pH 5.5 5.5
Effect of Amisoft® CS-22 on hair combing
Hair: Hair tresses of 20cm long, (Japanese Texture Hair, De Meo Brothers, NY) Procedure: hair cleansed with a solution of 10% Na Laureth Sulfate and rinsed under running water. Measurement: Initial value of wet combability (force) was measured by a combability tester (Kato Tech, test model) right after this cleaning process. The hair tress was then treated with 1 mL test shampoo (1 minute rubbing and 1 minute rinse), combed once and wet combability was measured again. Force reduction (%) = Force treated / Force initial *100 was calculated for each tress.
18
Damage prevention
Without Amisoft With Amisoft
Sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) 27% 34.0 24.0
Cocamido propyl betaine (CAPB) 31% 10.0 10.0
Amisoft® CS-22 30% - 11.0
Other Ingredients 6.7 6.7
Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium 10.0 10.0
pH adjuster q.s. q.s.
Water balance balance
TOTAL 100.0 100.0
pH 5.5 5.5
Effect of Amisoft® CS-22 on dyed hair: SEM pictures
Hair: Japanese Texture Hair (De Meo Brothers, NY), 20cm long, dyed by a commercial permanent Procedure: cycle of shampoo + wet combing 1000 times + rinse in purified water Repeated three times Measurement: The amount of soluble protein in the rinsing water was determined by BCA assay (Micro BCA Protein AssayTM, Pierce)
19
Protein loss prevention
Without Amisoft With Amisoft
Sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) 27% 34.0 11.3
Cocamido propyl betaine (CAPB) 30% 10.0 2.2
Amisoft® CS-22 25% - 15.0
Other Ingredients 6.7 6.7
Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride 10.0 10.0
pH adjuster q.s. q.s.
Water balance balance
TOTAL 100.0 100.0
pH 5.5 5.5
Effect of Amisoft® CS-22 on dyed hair: protein loss
Hair: Japanese Texture Hair (De Meo Brothers, NY), 20cm long, dyed by a commercial permanent Procedure: cycle of shampoo + wet combing 1000 times + rinse in purified water Repeated three times Measurement: The amount of soluble protein in the rinsing water was determined by BCA assay (Micro BCA Protein AssayTM, Pierce)
20
Sensory test
Without Amisoft With Amisoft
Sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) 27% 34.0 24.0
Cocamido propyl betaine (CAPB) 31% 10.0 10.0
Amisoft® CS-22 30% - 11.0
Other Ingredients 6.7 6.7
Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium 10.0 10.0
pH adjuster q.s. q.s.
Water balance balance
TOTAL 100.0 100.0
pH 5.5 5.5
Effect of Amisoft® CS-22 on hair feel during washing procedure
Concept 1 Amisoft CS-22 “Purely natural” ECOCERT
21
Natural shampoo NSAI-0030 and Natural shampoo for oily hair NSAI-ZN02:
Trade name % w/w Function NSAI-0030 % w/w Function NSAI-ZN02
A
SODIUM LAURYL SULFOACETATE 4.00 Cleansing surfactant 4.00 Cleansing surfactant
LAURYL GLUCOSIDE(50%) 9.00 Cleansing surfactant 9.00 Cleansing surfactant
AMISOFT CS-22 (25%) 20.0 Cleansing surfactant 20.0 Cleansing surfactant
PRESERVATIVES q.s. pH adjuster q.s. pH adjuster
WATER 45.0 45.0
B GLYCERYL CAPRATE 3.0 Viscosity modifier 3.0 Viscosity modifier
C AMISAFE AL-01 0.40 Conditioning Agent 0.40 Conditioning Agent DM, Sensitive
D FRAGRANCE q.s.. q.s.. Shampoo, €1.67
E MAGNESIUM CHLORIDE 6.9 Viscosity modifier 1.5 Viscosity modifier
F CITRIC ACID 0.54 pH Adjuster 0.5 pH Adjuster
WATER balance balance
G
AJIDEW ZN-100 - 0.5 Sebum control, anti-bacterial
WATER - balance
TOTAL 100 100 Dalli-Werke, care
pH 5.5 6.0 Shampoo, 1.99€
SLES free products requirements: • Economical • Good foaming power • High viscosity • Transparent • EO / PEG-free • Cold process
• (DEA-free) Amisoft ECS-22SB is OK
TIPS for formulation:
o Amount of Amisoft ® ECS-22SB
Max 10% in case of DEA-free
Max 20% with DEA
o Combination surfactants: at least two other surfactants = APG, betaine, amphoacetates
Viscosity:
o Addition of non ionic surfactant for micelle formation
o Polymers
pH 5,5 or higher
Concept 2 Amisoft ECS-22 SB “Mild and economical”
22
Concept 2 Amisoft ECS-22 SB “Mild and economical”
23
Sulfate Free “Natural” shampoo ACS 27-15-3:
Trade name % w/w Function ACS 27-15-3
A
Amisoft ECS-22SB 10.00 Cleansing surfactant
CAPB (30%) 33.00 Cleansing surfactant
Lauryl glucoside (50%) 10.0 Cleansing surfactant
Glyceryl laurate 2.0 Viscosity modifier
Water 43.0
B Ajidew NL-50 1.0 Humectant
Prodew 500 1.0 Moiturizer
C Preservative q.s..
D Citric acid 0.2 pH Adjuster
TOTAL 100
pH 5.5
DEA-free
Amisoft as secondary surfactant
TIGI / Unilever sulphate-free shampoo
Professional
L’Oreal Nature gently cleanses hair
no sulphate, silicone or paraben
Professional
Concept 3 Amisoft ECS-22 SB as additive
24
features a lower sulphate formula
provide lower sulphate cleansing for a more natural
shampoo alternative
“Lower Sulfate” - Unilever
Trade name % w/w Function CG-79NSB
A POLYQUATERNIUM-10 0.2 Thickener Transparent
B Water 10.0
C
SLES 40.0 Primary surfactant
CAPB 10.0 Secondary surfactant
AMISOFT ECS-22SB (30%) 7.0 Tertiary surfactant
Laureth-2 2.0
PEG-7 POLYGLYCERYL COCOATE 2.0
AJIDEW NL-50 (50%) 2.0 humectant
Preservative q.s.
Water balance
D Fragrance q.s.
E Citric acid q.s. pH adjuster
TOTAL 100
pH 5.8
25
Skin irritation test Skin pH influence Foam: amount, quality, boosting effect
Good candidates for hair care application
Luxury dense foam - Amilite
Mildness/Hypoallergenicity
Preliminary study of skin irritation (EpiDermTM(MultilayerdHuman Skin Model))
26
Mildness/Hypoallergenicity
Influence of Amilite® on skin pH
27
28
Good foaming power combined with resilient foam…
Luxury dense foam - Amilite
Luxury dense foam - Amilite
29
Trade name % w/w Function HS-ACST 1
A POLYQUATERNIUM-10 0.2 Thickener Transparent
B Water 9.8
C
Amilite ACS-12 6.0 Surfactant
CAPB (30%) 9.0 Surfactant
SLES (70%) 19.0 Surfactant
Cocamide DEA 2.0
Sodium chloride 1.0
Methyl paraben q.s. preservative
Water balance
D Fragrance q.s.
E Citric acid q.s. pH adjuster
TOTAL 100
pH 6.3 Aekyung,
Scalp care shampoo, 4,71€
30
Benefits for each application
Hair shampoo
Amilite GCS-
12K
Amilite ACS-
12
Amisoft CS-
22
Foam Speed +++ + +
Amount ++ +++ +
Rince Finger through + ++ +++
Easy to wash off ++ + +
Wet Smoothness + ++ +++
Dry
Smoothness + ++ +++
Lightness ++ ++ +
Moisturizing + ++ +++
31
Ajidew ZN-100: water soluble compound with sebum control properties, anti microbial properties (anti dandruff…)
Sebum control:
What else ?
32
Responsible for acne
Responsible for dandruff
MIC values: Challenge test: 0.1% AJIDEW ZN-100 solution
What else ?
AGENDA
Hair
Cleansing
Conditioning
33
Why do we need conditioning ?
To make hair more attractive we cut it, we brush it, we colour it, we bleach it…in other words we weaken it.
To maintain it as a social indicator people need to take care of it
by:
making it brighter and healthier
protecting it from outside damages
protecting it before and after treatment
…
…with more and more worries regarding human health, environment and costs
34
35
CAE: conditioning agent in natural conditioner Natural hair conditioner NCKK-127
Natural hair conditioner NCAE-0039
Amisafe AL-01: additive to make your hair more beautiful Ajidew NL-50: moisturizing, hair control, combability, colour protect Prodew 500: complete nourishment, luster Eldew PS-203R: damage protection
Our solutions
36
CAE low irritant cationic surfactant
INCI name : PCA Ethyl Cocoyl Arginate
Mild cationic surfactant with high biodegradability
Derived from natural sources and highly biodegradable
Imparts softness to skin
CAE is comparatively stable in acidic condition
But it is hydrolyzed with time in neutral to
alkaline condition and its hydrolysate is deposited
NH
COOO-
+
L-Arginine
PCA Cocoyl
N
H
N H
R
O
N H 2
N H
O
O
Ethyl *
37
CAE cell toxicity test and biodegradability
CAE is milder than other cationic surfactants and SLS in NR50 (cell toxicity)
Highly biodegradable
NR50 (ppm)
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
Distearyldimonium Chloride
Steartrimonium Chloride
CAE
Mild
0 1 2 3
Distearyldimonium
Chloride
Steartrimonium
Chloride
CAE
BOD (%) at 14th day
62.1
0
0
0 20 40 60 80 100
38
CAE as a conditioner
Hair absorption:
Elasticity improvement:
Antistatic properties:
CAE imparts elasticity to hair
CAE is more effective than quaternary ammonium salts
CAE
Distearyldimonium
Chloride
Steartrimonium
Chloride
39
CAE as a conditioner
Natural hair conditioner
Liquid crystal observation
Polarization micrograph
The mixture of CAE and fatty alcohol forms the lamellar liquid crystal formulation exhibits good sensory feel (smoothness of hair during rinse)
Trade name % w/w Function NCKK-17
A Bentonite 0.5 Gelling agent
B CAE 0.5 Suspending agent
C Water 9.0
D
Glycerin 10.0 Moiturizer
Water 50.0
Preservative q.s.
E Cetyl alcohol 10.0 Emulsion stabilizer
CAE 0.5 Hair conditioning agent
F Water balance
TOTAL 100
pH 5.5
40
CAE Natural hair conditioner
Trade name % w/w Function NCAE-0039
A Bentonite 0.075 Emulsion stabilizer
B
Ajidew NL-50 0.05 Moisturizer
GLycerin 0.05 Moisturizer
Water 3.645
C CAE 0.075 Conditioning agent
D Polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate/polyhydroxystearate/sebacate 0.1 Emulsifier
E Isopropyl myristate 1.0 Emollient
F
SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS (JOJOBA) SEED OIL 2.0 Emollient
Isopropyl myristate 3.0 Emollient
Eldew PS-203 0.5 Emollient
BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII (SHEA BUTTER) 0.5 Emollient
Cetyl alcohol 5.0 Viscosity modifier
POLYGLYCERYL-10 MYRISTATE 1.3 Emollient
Preservative q.s.
Sorbitan stearate 0.7 Emulsifier
G Glutamic acid 0.05 pH adjuster
CAE 0.2 Conditioning agent
Water balance
TOTAL 100
pH 5.5
Logona Naturkosmetik Color Conditioner
11.75€
Comptoir des lys Hair Conditioning & Styling
Balm 9.80€
41
Amisafe AL-01 INCI name : Lauroyl arginine
Amino acid amphoteric surfactant derived from L-Arginine and fatty acid. Powder format. Composition: 100%
Adsorbed to the hair, it imparts control to unruly hair, shiny appearance and leaves extremely smooth and moist feel on the hair without greasiness
Major applications: Hair conditioners, Hair shampoos, Hair styling products
Dosage recommendation:
• 0.05～1% (Hair conditioners, Hair styling products)
• 2～5% (Hair shampoos)
Good affinity to hair Moisturizing effect Hair damage prevention
Emollient
42
Amisafe AL-01 - Mechanisme
Cover the whole hair surface
Fiber alignement is improved
Presumption…
43
Amisafe AL-01 – Sensory test
Without Amisafe With Amisafe
Steartrimonium chloride (63%) 2.0 2.0
Amisafe AL-01 - 0.2
Hexyldecyl isostearate 2.0 2.0
Cetearyl alcohol 4.0 4.0
Lactic acid (9%) 0.1 0.1
Water 91.9 91.7
TOTAL 100.0 100.0
Hair: Natural European medium brown hair /De Meo Brothers, 20cm, 8g each Procedure: Test hair conditioners, 1 g each for one tress, were rubbed into the hair for 30 seconds. The tresses were rinsed in running tap water (30 -40oC) for 30 seconds, combed, and dried in a conditioned room (23oC, 40%R.H.) overnight. Measurement: 10 panelists were asked to compare the feel of 2 tresses treated with the AL-01 containing hair conditioner to other 2 tresses treated with the control formulation and to describe the sensory difference.
44
Amisafe AL-01 – Luster
Without Amisafe With Amisafe
Steartrimonium chloride (63%) 2.0 2.0
Amisafe AL-01 - 0.2
Hexyldecyl isostearate 2.0 2.0
Cetearyl alcohol 4.0 4.0
Lactic acid (9%) 0.1 0.1
Water 91.9 91.7
TOTAL 100.0 100.0
Hair: Japanese hair, 20cm, 5g each Procedure: 0.5g of the hair conditioner was rubbed into the hair tress for 30 seconds. The tresses were rinsed in running tap water (30 -40oC) for 30 seconds, combed, and dried in a conditioned room (23oC, 40%R.H.) overnight. Measurement: Shine box procedure: 3 panelists compared 10 pairs each out of all the combinations of the tresses ((2 hair conditioners x 3 hair tresses)2 – 6 = 30 ) in a box with fluorescent light. Statistical analysis: Scheffe’s pair comparison method.
45
Amisafe AL-01 – How to use it ?
Hardly soluble in water, alcohol or polyols （Ref.：Water solubility Not more than 0.01wt% ＠25℃）
Add it into the phase containing the primary surfactant and solubilize it by heating up to 80℃, then emulsify
Incorporation in quat-base conditioner:
46
Amisafe AL-01 – How to use it ?
If it is still difficult to use AMISAFE®AL-01…
• Increase the concentration of the primary surfactant.
• Emulsify at the higher temperature.
• Increase the concentration of the fatty alcohol.
• Use the relatively smaller molecule of fatty alcohol, such as myristyl alcohol.
• Use propylene glycol or butylene glycol in the phase containing the primary surfactant.
47
Amisafe AL-01 Hair conditioner
Trade name % w/w SL-B-22DL
A
Behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine 1.5
Cetearyl Alchol 5.0
PG 3.5
Eldew APS-307 0.5
B Amisafe AL-01 0.3
C
Ajidew A-100 0.5
Disodium EDTA 0.01
Preservative q.s.
Water balance
D Fragrance q.s.
TOTAL 100
pH 4.0-4.5
48
Ajidew NL-50 ECOCERT
INCI name : Sodium PCA
PCA is one of the main components of
Natural Moisturizing Factor.
Characteristics:
Absorbed by hair
Effective moisturizer
Improves hair manageability
Reduces wet friction
Colour Care
Component (%)
Amino Acids 40.0
PCA 12.0
Lactate 12.0
Urea 7.0
NH3, Uric Acid, Glucosamine, Creatinine, Citrate 1.5
Inorganic salts 18.5
Sugar, Organic Acids, Peptides, Undefined 8.5
(H.W.Spier and G.Pascher, Arch.f.Dermat., 199, 411-427(1955))
About 1g of hair was immersed in 100 mL of AJIDEW N-50 solution 0.1wt% active (25°C)
Quantity of AJIDEW in the solution was determined by HPLC
AJIDEW uptake by immersion (A) = Initial quantity of AJIDEWN-50 –Quantity of AJIDEWN-50 after immersion
Then the hair was taken out of the AJIDEW solution and was rinsed by shaking in 100 mL of distilled water for 30 seconds
AJIDEW uptake after rinse (B) = (A) –Quantity of
AJIDEW in the rinsing
AJIDEW remains in hair even after rinse with water !
Interaction of PCA and hair is relatively
weak at pH range between 4 and 7.
49
Ajidew NL-50 - absorption
A
B
Treatment process 1. Moisturizer diluted into 5 w/w% with buffer solution and pH adjusted to 5.0 with NaOHaq. 2. 100 g of moisturizer solution was warmed to 40 ºC, and 1g-tress of Japanese natural hair immersed in it and stirred gently for 15 minutes. 3. Hair tress taken out and rinsed thoroughly with tap water of 40 ºC, rinsed lightly with deionized water. 4. After excess water was removed with a towel, it was blow-dried and left at 25 ºC / 40% RH for over 4 days. Measurement: moisture content determined by a Karl Fischer with a water vaporizing unit CA-06-VA-06, Mitsubishi Chemistry). About 30 mg of hair cut into 1mm length was subjected to one measurement.
*Britton-Robinson buffer, 80mM-H3PO4 •80mM-CH3COOH, 80mM-H3BO4N
AJIDEW holds higher amount of water than Glycerin !
50
Ajidew NL-50 - moisturizing
51
Without Ajidew With Ajidew
SLES (27%) 40.0 40.0
CAPB (30%) 8.0 8.0
Lauramide IPA 0.50 0.50
Citric acid 0.05 0.05
Ajidew N-50 - 3.0
Preservative 0.40 0.40
Water Balance balance
TOTAL 100.0 100.0
Ajidew NL-50 - manageability
Hair: 18cm in length, 4.5g in weight, European natural hair Procedure: Hair piece was washed with shampoo (applying 1mL of shampoo for 1 minute) and rinsed with tap water of 40 ºC for 1 minute. After combing out the tangles, the tress was dried overnight Measurement: The tress was quickly combed 20 times before taking a picture (23 ºC /40% RH)
52
Ajidew NL-50 – wet friction
Formulations: Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) 15wt% (active) Moisturizer 15wt% (active): glycerin, butylene glycol, Ajidew NL-50 Sensory test during rinse to judge finder gliding AJIDEW reduces wet friction !
53
Trade name % w/w CG-79NSB
A Polyquaternium-10 0.2
B Water 10.0
C
SLS (70%) 40.0
CAPB (30%) 10.0
Amisoft ECS-22SB 7.0
Laureth-2 2.0
PEG-7 polyglyceryl cocoate 2.0
Ajidew NL-50 2.0
Preservative q.s.
Water balance
D Frangrance q.s.
E Citric acid q.s.
TOTAL 100
pH 5.9
Ajidew NL-50 –Shampoo
No additional NaCl needed !
Kao Reach repair shampoo
8.40€
L’Oréal Dry hair shampoo
12.40€
Tigi Daily dose conditioner
16,07€
54
Prodew 500
Amino acid cocktail designed for the efficient application of PCA and Amino acids in hair care formulation
32% humectant
Almost odorless and colorless
Preservative free
Component (%)
Sodium PCA and PCA 20.0
Arginine 7.0
Amino acids mix 7.0
Aspartic acid 4.0
Sodium lactate 12.0
Water 50.0
18% high quality amino acids Premix = 11 AA modeled based on the constituent amino acids of protein in Cell Membrane Complex (CMC)
55
Prodew 500 - luster
Hair: Japanese woman, 15cm long, 1g, bleached four times Procedure: Three tresses were subjected to treatment with each test solution and then immersed in the test solution for 10 minutes at 35oC.They were rinsed in 100mL of deionized water (35oC) and removed after one minute. After squeezing the excess water from the tresses, the tresses were combed and air dried overnight at 23oC, 40%RH. Gloss measurement: the angular distribution of reflected light from 11 hair fibers arranged parallel was determined with a gonio photometer (GP-200, Murakami Color Research Laboratory). The incident light beam meat the fibers in the root-to-tip direction at an incident angle of 30°
Different solutions of Prodew 500 are tested here.
56
Prodew 500 – components role
Sodium PCA and PCA
moisturizing
manageability
wet friction reduction
Arginine
pH>4:
Cationic charge
Anchor for PCA*, acidic AA and
neutral AA
AA mix
Alanine improves surface
hydrophobicity (reduced by bleaching
or surfactant)
Histidine improves
tensile strength
Phenylalanine improves
tensile strength
*Low affinity for hair at pH around 7
57
Prodew 500 – Arginine
Anchor for PCA and AA !
Trade name % w/w ASUL-4025 ASUL-4025 % w/w AHCP-3
A
Amilite ACS-12 22.0 Cetrimonium chloride 8.3
Lauramidopropyl hydroxysulatine
18.0 Glycerin 2.0
Sodium C14-16 olefin sulfonate 3.0 Preservative q.s.
Cocamide MEA 1.0 Water Balance
Polyquat-7 5.0 Steareth-20 0.5
Prodew 500 5.0 Cetyl alcohol 6.0
Glycol distearate 1.0 Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) seed oil
1.0
Preservative q.s. Prodew 500 2.0
Water balance Citric acid q.s.
B Fragrance q.s. Water 10.0
C Citric acid q.s. Fragrance q.s.
TOTAL 100 100
pH 5.8 4.0
58
Prodew 500
59
Eldew PS-203 R
INCI name : Phytosteryl Octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate
Economical grade of ELDEW® PS-203 Difference: the phytosterol supplier, simplified purification step
Specification: no difference
Regulation: no difference <Reach, SFDA>
Slightly yellowish colour, might form slight precipitation during winter season
Excellent emolliency and moisturization
Skincare and hair care efficacy, ceramide-like function
Excellent tactile properties: non-tacky, non-greasy feel
Damage prevention and protection
Improves pigment dispersion
High refractive index, imparts gloss to the film
Good compatibility with water and other emollient oils: easy to formulate
Function as a low HLB emulsifier in oil-in-water emulsion
Key words: Repair Nourish Hydrate, moisture Protect
60
Eldew PS-203 R – Multifunctional emollient
Eldew prevents further decrease of hair strength after bleaching or permanent
61
60
70
80
90
100
Te
ns
ile
Str
en
gth
(%
)
Natural Bleached Permed
Bleached /permed hair
Bleached /permed => shampoo SLES Bleached /permed => shampoo SLES & ELDEW ®
N=10, mean S.D.
Eldew PS-203 R – Damage protection Damaged hair was prepared by bleach or permanent wave. After these treatments, the hair was irradiated with ultrasonic in a shampoo solution. Bleach: Ammonia solution (28%) :Hydrogen peroxide (30%) : Water = 1 : 2 : 7 Permanent: Waving lotion = Thioglycolicacid (6.5%) , pH adjusted to 9 by Ammonia Solution, 15min Neutralizer = Sodium Bromide 7%, Ultrasonic: 200W, 26kHz, 30min Procedure/measure: after rinsing and drying for 24 hours, the tensile strength (break strength) of 10 hairfibers were measured using a rheometer (NRM-2010-CW: FUDO).
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Eldew PS-203 R – Hydrophobicity
Natural Bleach Control
(Without Oil) ELDEW®
PS-203 Mineral Oil Octyl
Palmitate
Co
nta
ct a
ng
le (
°)
N=20
60
90
100
120
70
110
80
Bleached
Treated with a hair conditioner
Hair: Japanese female virgin hair, 22cm long, prepared as tresses of 2g each Natural: Washed with 15% Sodium Laureth Sulfate and rinsed exhaustively in tap water. Bleach: The hair tresses were bleached in 6% hydroxyperoxide / 2% ammonium hydroxide (=1 / 1 in volume) for 30 minutes and rinsed exhaustively. This bleach treatment was repeated four times. Conditioner treatment: Hair conditioner (0.5g) was applied to wet hair and distributed manually for 30 seconds, then 30 seconds rinsing in running tap water (40oC) followed.
Eldew reduces contact angle decrease after bleaching !
…improves conditioner action
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Eldew PS-203 R – Hair deposition
TEST shampoo %
SLES (27%) 30.0
CAPB (30%) 15.0
Pentylene glycol 2.0
Glyceryl caprilate 1.0
Polysorbate 85 1.0
PEG-160 sorbitan triisostearate 1.0
Polyquaternium-10 0.2
Eldew PS-203 0.5
Water balance
Citric acid (10% aq.) 0.3
TOTAL 100
pH 6.0
Both natural hair and intensively waved hair were prepared as tresses of 1g, and washed with SLES. The tress was washed with 1 g of a test shampoo for one minute, rinsed with 2L tap water, and dried in a conditioned room overnight (23oC, 40% RH). ELDEW was extracted with Hexane from the hair tress and determined by LC-MS.
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Eldew PS-203 R – sensory test
TEST shampoo Without Eldew
With Eldew
With Eldew
SLES (27%) 30.0 30.0 30.0
CAPB (30%) 15.0 15.0 15.0
Pentylene glycol 2.0 2.0 2.0
Glyceryl caprilate 1.0 1.0 1.0
Polysorbate 85 1.0 1.0 1.0
PEG-160 sorbitan triisostearate
1.0 1.0 1.0
Polyquaternium-10 0.2 0.2 0.2
Eldew PS-203 - 0.1 0.5
Water balance balance balance
Citric acid (10% aq.) 0.3 0.3 0.3
TOTAL 100 100 100
pH 6.0 6.0 6.0
ELDEW PS-203 improves foamability, hair feel during rinse and wet hair feel of an SLES-base shampoo
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P&G Luminizing elixir
9,5€
Eldew PS-203 R
Luminizing Amino Oil
La Biosthétique Natural leave-in conditioner
18,19€
Kanebo Perfect Hair Essence
6,08€
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What else ?
Colour care application:
HAIR COLOURANT
ELDEW SL-205: Dissolving properties and light feeling
ELDEW PS-203: Caring and prevention of damage
L-Arginine® C: partial replacement of ammonia in oxidative hair dyes
Amihope LL for pigment dispersion
POST DYE TREATMENT
Ajidew NL-50: Color fixation and wash fastness AMILITE® ACS-12: Color protection PRODEW® 500: wash fastness and complete treatment
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SUMMARY
WHERE AMINO ACIDS ARE THE ESSENCE OF OUR PERSONAL CARE
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THANKS FOR YOUR ATTENTION
FAQ
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