Municipal Offices, Garden PlacePrivate Bag 3010Hamilton, New ZealandPh 07 838 6699, Fax 07 838 6599Email: info@hcc.govt.nzInternet: www.hamilton.co.nz

A guide to assist in the ecologicalrestoration of Hamilton’s gully systems.

GULLYRESTORATION

GUIDE

The Gully Restoration Programme is a partnership between the Hamilton

City Council and the community. The aim is to raise awareness and

appreciation of Hamilton's gully systems and to encourage a sense of

community ownership of these valuable areas. The Gully Restoration Guide

has been developed to provide the information required to plan and

implement a successful gully restoration project.

AcknowledgementsThe guide was funded by the Hamilton City Council's SustainableEnvironment Team and developed by a working group comprisingrepresentatives from the Hamilton City Council, The University of Waikato,Environment Waikato and local experts. Information presented in the guidehas been sourced from individuals and organisations with expert localknowledge of gully environments and restoration methods.

ContributorsWritten and compiled by Kim Wall and Bruce Clarkson.With special thanks to Peter Morris.With assistance from:The Gully Restoration Guide Working GroupTheresa Downs, The University of WaikatoWayne Bennett, Ecosourced WaikatoMatthew Vare, Hamilton City Council.Rob McGowan, The University of WaikatoTony FraserCarolyn Lewis, Biosecurity Pest Plant Contractor with Environment WaikatoLiz Hallsworth, Hamilton City CouncilKaren Denyer, Environment Waikato.Alasdair Craig, Hamilton City CouncilBruce MacKay, Hamilton City CouncilCath Blake, Hamilton City CouncilKemble Pudney, Hamilton City CouncilJane Vermeren, Hamilton City CouncilScott Gemmill, Continuing Education, University of WaikatoClare Jackson

Presentation and layout: Digital StreamGraphics: Catherine Beard and Geoff MardonCover Photo: Adrienne Grant

Published by

First published March 20012nd Edition August 20023rd Edition June 2006

ISBN: 0-9582150-8-1

Printed on recycled, chlorine free paper.ISBN: 0-9582150-8-1

Gully restoration

Before AfterLiz Hallsworth Liz Hallsworth

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDEThe Gully Restoration Guide has been designed to help you beginyour own gully restoration project. It gives information on thedifferent stages that a restoration project will go through in an easyto follow, step by step layout. See the useful references availablein the Appendices for more information to plan your project.

INTRODUCTIONHamilton’s Hidden TreasuresThe Aim of the Gully Restoration GuideRepairing Hamilton’s Degraded Gully SystemsWhere are They? Examples of Gully Restorations in Hamilton

APPENDICESExpertise and InformationUseful ReferencesSoil Characterisation GuideNative Plants for GulliesSeed Collection and Propagation of Native PlantsWeed Identification and Control MethodsNotes

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Contents22236

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STEP BY STEP GUIDE TO GULLY RESTORATIONSTEP ONE - Getting startedSTEP TWO - Information gatheringSTEP THREE - Defining your project goalsSTEP FOUR - Drawing a concept planSTEP FIVE - What to plant, where?STEP SIX - Where to get your plantsSTEP SEVEN - Preparing your site for plantingSTEP EIGHT - PlantingSTEP NINE - Establishment and ongoing maintenance

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Visitors to Hamilton, and many residents, may not be aware of theextensive gully systems that exist within the city. These gullies addanother dimension to the cityscape, providing green space forrecreation, visual relief from the urban environment, and habitats(places to live) for a wide range of wildlife. They are also a vital partof the city’s walkway and drainage systems.

There are a number of significant gully systems in Hamilton and theremains of others that were largely filled in before their protectionin 1987. However, thegullies today don’tlook how they didbefore Europeansettlement in the area.Over time, as the cityhas expanded, thegullies’ natural features have been degraded and a large proportionof their native flora and fauna (plants and animals) has been lost.

Many members of the community have recognised how importantgullies are in realising the vision of restoring indigenous biodiversityback to Hamilton. With approximately half of Hamilton’s gulliesowned privately, residents and community groups have a majorrole to play in helping bring back native vegetation and bird life tothe city. This guides’ objective is to help groups or individual membersof the community to restore Hamilton’s valuable gully assets andwill tell you how to:

1 INTRODUCTION

1. Make an accurate and useful assessment of the project site2. Develop a project management plan taking into account site specific information3. Access resources and additional expertise and knowledge4. Make decisions on how to organise and implement a successful restoration project

The Hamilton Ecological District is one of themost modified areas in New Zealand. Only asmuch as 1.6 % of the original vegetation remains.

(Leathwick et al., 1995)

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The gulllies are the result of the undermining of a geological formationof sands, silt, peat and gravel known as the Hinuera formation (adeposit formed from the accumulation of volcanic material broughtdown by the Waikato River from the Taupo area). Around 15,000years ago, the Waikato River started to cut down through thismaterial to create its present channel and as it deepened, springswere exposed along the riverbanks. As water drained from thesurrounding land, these springs undermined the banks causing slipsand creating a network of streams draining into the Waikato River.This process was repeated again and again giving rise to erosionand the formation of the steep-sided and intricate network of gulliesthat adjoin the river today.

Hamilton's gullies are a key landscape and natural feature withinthe city. “They are estimated to occupy around 750 hectares or8% of the city area” (Downs et. al. 2000).

MANGAKOTUKUTUKU gully system

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Hamilton’s gully systems have lots of important functions and values.They contain significant areas of native vegetation and provideimportant green pathways for wildlife. They are used for a varietyof outdoor activities and are important for their scenic values. Thegullies also have cultural significance for Waikato iwi and containheritage sites of historical and cultural importance. The gully streamsare an essential part of Hamilton’s drainage network, channellingwater from urban areas into the Waikato River. The quality of waterwithin these streams is particularly important to the health ofresidents, wildlife and the food chain.

In 1989 a “Gully Protection Zone” was established as part of thenew Hamilton City Council District Plan, providing rules to controldevelopment in and around gullies. These rules’ cover buildingand construction in and near gullies, earthworks, removal ofvegetation and channelling of storm water.The plan was reviewedagain in 1997 to reflect Council’s responsibilities under the ResourceManagement Act, 1991. This is now covered by an EnvironmentalProtection Overlay. Ask Hamilton City Council for a copy of theleaflet “Protecting Our Gullies”. Looking after the ecological functionsof the gully systems is now an important part of city planning.

Hamilton’s District Plan envisages a Green Network which linksthe city’s natural features into a continuous natural corridor and,over time, restores them. The idea of this green corridor is to increaseour urban biodiversity (the variety of life forms that exist in aparticular place) and to improve the natural environment thatsupports the city.

It is not easy to successfully look after and improve the gully systemduring rapid growth in the city. Providing rules through the DistrictPlan to control aspects of development around gullies is one method,but by itself won’t be enough. The Council and the communitymust use a range of other methods to help achieve these goals,such as:

1. Restoring and replanting gullies in conjunction with the Community Planting Programme 2. Providing information and education to increase public awareness and understanding of environmental issues

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Gullies are the best kept ecological secret of Hamilton City. With appropriatemanagement it is possible to restore many of these habitats to a state thatwill provide ongoing protection for close analogues of original systems.

(Clarkson et al., 2000).

There are a number of initiatives undertaken in Hamilton to protectand enhance gullies. Hamilton City Council’s Gully ManagementPlan and Council’s Gully Restoration Programme are a couple ofways Council is working towards improving the city’s naturalenvironment. Other community initiatives such as the gully registerproject, aims to identify and monitor restorations taking place inthe city’s gullies and is an important part of measuring progresstowards restoring indigenous biodiversity back to Hamilton.As at October 2003 some 187 hectares were under restorationincluding 142 ha on public land and 45 ha on private land. Witheffort from the whole community, Hamilton City can continue todevelop and grow in harmony with its unique gully systems andother important natural features.

Restoring and replanting Hamilton’s gullies is a long term processthat will take many years to achieve. However, as many Hamiltonianshave already found, ecological restoration is an enjoyable pastime.There are a number of groups throughout the city already attemptingto repair our neglected gully systems. Working together, we canreally make a difference to Hamilton’s neglected treasures and theecology of our city.

In the words of some gully restorers;

‘Making good progress-the rubbish has been reduced and the firstplants are starting to grow’

‘The Manuka we planted the autumn before last have doubled insize!

‘Huge numbers of many other native plants seedlings are comingup naturally and weeds have almost ceased to be a problem’The other day I looked out over the gully and thought - Next yearthere’ll be tui in those trees!’

3. Controlling weeds and pests on Council land 4. Developing gully management plans 5. Funding the purchase of gullies as reserves

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How can you help ?

A.J Seeley ReserveArmargh Street.Dr Seeley bought his gullyin 1960 when it was all ingrass, and grazed it beforeplanting the 5.5 acres withmostly native plants. DrSeeley did all of therestoration work himselfand his gully is a goodexample of how Hamilton’sgullies could look. Giftedby Dr Seeley to the city andnow a Hamilton CityCouncil Reserve.

Hammond BushHammond Bush is one of thevery few remnants of nativebush left in the Hamilton Basin. It has a variety of soil types andhas an unusually high diversityof native plants. It also supportsa small population of swampmaire. The work in progress inthis bush represents a majorconservation effort by HamiltonCity Council in partnership withlocal residents and ecologicalgroups.

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Hamilton ZooHamilton Zoo’s FreeFlightAviary has been plantedwith a wide range of nativespecies and is a good placeto have a look at whatthese plants might look likein your own restoration.

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Jubilee Park(Claudelands Bush)Claudelands Bush in the centre ofthe city is a remnant of kahikateaforest with a walkway through thecent re , now l ink ing w i thClaudelands Park. The bush is oneof the last remnants of the type oflowland semi-swamp Kahikateaforest that once covered much ofthe Hami l ton Bas in . Thedeve lopment o f ad j a cen tClaudelands Park will see theextension of the bush area and thecreation of a lake and wetland torestore some habitat lost when theshow grounds were first developed.

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Hukanui School GullyHukanui School is restoring theirgully as a valuable educationalresource and play area. They areencouraging students and the localcommunity to participate inpreparing a long term restorationplan for the gully. There is a widerange of site types.

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St James Park Astelia ColonySt James Park residents have started arestoration of this ecologicallysignificant site of Astelia Grandis (nativeswamp lily’s). Call Robin Holdsworthfor more information. Ph. 855 4786

5 Mangaiti GullyMangaiti Gully is currently beingrestored as a model of gullyrestoration. Hamilton City Council,community groups and localresidents are all assisting with therestoration of the site. A boardwalkthrough the gully provides easyaccess.

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Minogue ParkThe restoration of this Kahikateastand was started by a local residentand is now being finished by ForestLake School. Restoration of lakeand margins continues withcommunity involvement.

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Morris GullyLocal gully expert Peter Morris hasspent the last 20 years restoring a2 hectare sect ion of theMangaharakeke Gully. Peter hasgrown all of the plants used in hisrestoration from eco-sourced seedthat he has collected from theHamilton Ecological District. For aguided tour of this inspirational sitecall him on 829 5763.

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Hillcrest ParkHillcrest Kindergarten and Tui 2000 haveplanted the perimeter of this Kahikatea standand continue to plant and weed with nativeseedling regeneration now present.

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Examples of Gully Restorations in Hamilton

Te Anau ParkTe Anau Park gully restoration inconjunction with the local residents

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Resthills ParkResthills gully restoration inconjunction with local residents byJohn Webb Drive.

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20Fitzroy GullyFitzroy Park gully restoration withMelville School and residents.

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Edgecombe ParkWaitawhiriwhiri gully network.Restoration with community groups.

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Waiwhaharakeke Natural Heritage Park(Horseshoe Lake)Large scale reconstruction fromfarmland to forest and wetlandecosystems originally representedin the Hamilton Basin.

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Pukete Farm ParkPukete Farm Park gully restorationand wetland area in partnership withMountain Bike Club.

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Pukete Farm Park kauri GroveKanuka/Manuka with kauri groveforest established in a small gullyoff Emma Place in conjunction withKeep Hamilton Beautiful. Ph JohnEbbett 8492005

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Te Hikuwai Reserve GullyGully restoration. Entrance off RiverRoad opposite roundabout atFlagstaff shopping Centre

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Munros WalkwayRestoration of gully down to river.Access from River Road just pastAlandale Ret i rement Home

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Ranfurly ParkInitially planted by Tui 2000 andWoodstock School.

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STEP ONE

STEP TWO

STEP THREE

STEP FOUR

STEP FIVE

STEP SIX

STEP SEVEN

STEP EIGHT

STEP NINE

STEP BY STEP GUIDE TO GULLYRESTORATION

Navtive plants & birdsErosionBeautificationHabitatScreens/viewsEducationRongoa Maori

Drawing a concept plan

Gully layoutPre-existing featuresWaterways & drainageGully access, walkways &construction

What to plant, where?

Restoration areaFeatures & valuesSoilsSite conditions

Where to get your plantsNurseryPropagate plants yourself

Preparing your site forplanting

Weed removalPreparing the ground

PlantingPlantingMulching

Establishment &ongoing maintenance

ReleasingWeed matsWateringProtection from windMonitoring

Measuring success

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SOILCHARACTERISATION

GUIDEPg 32

NATIVE PLANTSFOR GULLIES

Pg 34

NATIVE PLANTSFOR GULLIES

Pg 34

SEED COLLECTION& PROPAGATION

OF NATIVE PLANTSPg 52

WEEDIDENTIFICATION

& CONTROLPg 55

APPENDICES

BoundariesConsult neighbours Getting started

Information gathering

Restoration areaFeatures & valuesSoilsSite conditions

Defining your project goals

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STEP ONE

Get a feel for the site and think about how you might like itto look and feel when it is finished.

Think about what types of work you might need to do in thegully to reach your goals.

Visit one of the gullies in the Hamilton area that have beenrestored for examples, ideas and inspiration. Look at the mapon page six of this guide for where to find a gully restorationwhich you can visit.

Who owns the gully? Is it on private land or is it owned bythe City Council? Talk to Council and find out what rules andregulations apply to this land and what your obligations are.Approach the owners of the property adjoining yours and seeif they would like to get involved in the project or will giveyou permission to work in their area.

Make sure that everyone who will be affected by the projectknows about what will be happening and has had a chanceto have their input.

Talk with residents living adjacent to the gully. They may liketo join in on the project and/or could contribute to the resourcesneeded.

- Getting started

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Draw a sketch of the gully to use as a base plan. A ‘birds eye view’sketch will be useful when planning your restoration as you canrecord information on the diagram as you go along. Start with abasic layout showingboundaries, distances,streams and entrypoints to the site. Drawother features onto them a p a n d m a k edetailed notes of usefulinformation.

You may like to obtain a copy of an aerial photoof your gully that shows the gully boundarieson it. Contact Hamilton City Council (DesignServices) who will be happy to help you. A smallfee applies for this service.

There may be areas of your gully that have special featuresor values that you want to keep. Make a note of these on the sketchof your gully so that you can include them in yourdesign later on.

Identify which part of the gully you would like to start restoring first.

STEP TWO- Information gathering

Don’t bite off more than you can chew! Remember a small,well planned and cared for planting has the best chance ofsuccess. Extending the restoration area can be done later onwhen earlier stages of planting have become established andmore resources become available.

Other natural features such as streams and natural waterways,rock features, animal and insect habitats (old logs) may beworked into your design.

Weeds and native plants- there may be some bush remnantsin your gully. These should be identified and protected. It canbe difficult to distinguish between native plants and weeds.Use the plant identification tables in the back of the guide tohelp you identify the plants in your gully.

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Do your restoration in small steps

Base plan

You may also find evidence of Maori or early Europeanoccupation, treasures that make your site special. If you comeacross something contact Hamilton City Council who canadvise you on how best to protect these items.

The type of soil present in your gully will determine howwell your plants grow, and whether or not they will survive throughdry or very wet periods. Knowing what types of soil you have inyour area will give you an indication of the stability of gully banksand will help you decide what plants to plant and where. Use the‘Soil Characterisation Guide’ in the Appendix to help you work outthe soil types in each area of the gully.

Mark on your gully sketch the site conditions in your projectarea. Make a note of:

1. Damp or swampy areas with high water tables (especially in winter)2. Dry spots (especially in summer)3. Areas that may be susceptible to frosts (open areas with no vegetative protection)4. Windy or sheltered regions5. Steep slopes that are prone to erosion6. Shady and sunny spaces

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Example of a Gully Profile

This idealised gully profile shows the range of sites likelyto be encountered in gully restorations. A steep hillslopeand crest on the left runs into a footslope where materialfrom the hillslope has accumulated. The footslope adjoinsthe very wet backswamp where overflow from the stream istrapped by a raised levee. The right of this gully profileis a terrace peatland but in some gullies the terrace may bewell drained.

Make a comparison between your gully and this profile. Identifysimilar areas. The profile shows what native trees like to growin the different zones of the gully, information that you canrefer to in Step 5.

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HAMILTON GULLIES:How they were

Gully floor (Sand/Silt/Gravel/Organic)

The poorly drained gully floors and theirassociated backswamps were dominatedby kahikatea, pukatea, swamp maire, andcabbage tree. Understorey and groundcoverspecies included mapou, fuchsia, pate, coprosmaand ferns.

Gully sides (Sand/Gravel)

The well drained and steep gully sides werecovered with forest dominated totara, matai,kowhai, kanuka and mahoe. The understoreyincluded shrubs of mapou and mingimingiand the ground was covered in a variety offerns. Slopes too steep for forest had herbaceousor shrubby vegetation. Clarkson and Clarkson, 2000

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The design of your gully restoration plan will depend on the aim ofyour project — what you want the gully to look like, what it willbe used for and what you want the project to achieve. There aremany possible aims for your project, and you need to clearly definethese before you start.

1. Restoring former native vegetation2. Enhancing aesthetic value (making the place more beautiful)3. Providing habitat (places to live) and food for birds and other animals 4. Controlling erosion5. Improving privacy or creating views6. Creating an educational resource7. Security

Knowing what you hope to achieve is important as it will influencewhat types of trees and shrubs you should plant and where youshould position them.

New Zealand’s plants are part of our heritage and most of themare not found anywhere else in the world. They are what givesNew Zealand much of its distinctive character. Restoring gullysystems with native plants not only enhances a particular area butalso helps the species to survive. The ‘Native Plants for Gullies’table provides information on many native plants that are suitablefor gully planting in Hamilton.

The aims of your project could include:

STEP THREE- Defining your project goals

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Hamilton’s gullies are already home to a number of birds, includingmorepork (ruru), kingfisher (kotare) , fantail (piwakawaka) and greywarbler (riroriro).

However, local groups have identified that a significant amount ofnew restoration is needed to bring back birds like the tui and kereruto Hamilton. Individual restoration projects throughout the city areimportant stepping stones for native birds.

Certain plants are particularly attractive to birds that may feed onnectar, fruit or insects. There are many native trees and shrubs thatcan be planted to provide a year round food supply, but you will needto select these carefully so that there are fruit and flowers at the righttimes. Fruit eating birds are attracted to groups of different fruitingplants rather than a single species. Planting the right selection of plantswill create an environment suitable for insects that will in turn attractinsect feeding birds. See the ‘Native Plants for Gullies’ table thatindicates which species are particularly attractive to birds. Clearlythe easiest way to ensure the return of native birds to your bit ofbush is to plant as wide a range of native plants as possible.

Many native plants offer protection on sites where there is risk oferosion. Plants protect the ground from the direct impact of therain, bind the soil together with their roots and remove excesswater from the ground. The ‘Native Plants for Gullies’ table showsnative species thought to provide stability against erosion.

Maintaining and screening views may be one consideration in thedevelopment of a restoration plan. The ‘Native Plants for Gullies’table provides information on what species to plant and where, tomeet your goals. Plants can be chosen based on ultimate height,trunk diameter, the ability to be pruned and density of foliage.

When clearing dense undergrowth and putting paths throughgullies, think about how this might affect security in yourneighbourhood. Keep clear lines of sight, minimise places wherepeople can hide and limit access to properties.

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Your concept plan will be the document that all those involved inthe gully restoration will referto. It will be based on all theinformation that you havecollected about your site andwill show how your projectshould look when you havefinished.

It is a good idea to draw up your planon a large sheet of paper so that youcan show a lot of detail on it. Whenyou have finished the plan you may liketo laminate it, so that you can take itinto the gully when you are workingthere without it getting dirty or torn.

Use the base plan sketch of the gully that you drew in Step Two todraw up your concept plan.

If you need help to identify where drainage systems are in the gully,contact the Hamilton City Council for advice.

Design a broad overall vision for the gully but mark off the areathat you can afford to do. Once you know how many plants youwill need, clearly markoff the zone that youwill be starting onfirst.

Mark on the concept plan where you will be building paths orviewing areas, and the points of entry into the gully. This willinfluence what types of plants you grow around these areas. Also,be aware of any existing or future uses of the gully when you planpathways through the site.

STEP FOUR- Drawing a concept plan

Remember, it is best to start restoring onecorner of your site first rather than plant toosparsely over a larger area (but keep in minda broad vision for the whole site).

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Clearly note on the plan features at the site that you want to keep.Old logs that might be a habitat for animals and insects, large treesand areas of native vegetation may have a place in your restorationproject. Noting them on your plan will show everyone working atthe site that these features shouldn’t be removed.

Mark clearly on your plan ‘view lines’ from properties adjacent tothe gully. Some residents may not want their view blocked by largetrees and some may prefer views framed by trees or denser vegetationfor privacy. This information will influence what trees and shrubsyou will be planting in certain areas.

Once the Concept plan is completed you will need to think about where you will source the plants for your restoration.

Concept plan

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Planning what you are going to plant and where will depend onthe aims of your planting project and the needs of the plants (whatconditions they will grow best in). Visit one of the sites on page6&7 to see examples of native plant communities typical of HamiltonGullies. Hukanui School gully is a good example as there is a widerange of site types. Use natural succession as a guide for when tosuccessfully plant a given species. Plant communities change(succession) over time as late arriving species grow up in the shadeand shelter of the first stage, or pioneer plants.

Early succession (pioneer or early stage) species such as manukaand karamu grow well in the open and their fast growth suppressesweeds. However, because these pioneers are short lived they willeventually, after about 10 to 20 years, die back and let weedsre-invade unless the middle and late stage species are alreadyestablished. The middle and late stage species need less light thanthe early ones, and their juvenile stages are often frost sensitive,so they can be planted once you have established some initial cover.In most sites in Hamilton you need to hand plant these latersuccession species since we have lost both the seed source and thedispersal agent-large native birds such as the kereru (wood pigeon).

On well drained soils, initial plantings of kanuka, lacebark, totara,matai, wineberry, lancewood and kowhai need to be underplantedwith tawa, mahoe, hangehange, kawakawa and tanekaha andmapou . Planting them into light wells either opened up by handor as they form naturally, will increase their growth rates.On moister soils, karamu, manuka, swamp sedge (Carex secta),wheki and ribbonwood that were planted as pioneers should beenriched in gaps or by underplanting with pukatea, swamp maire,rimu, kiekie and swamp coprosma (Coprosma tenuicaulis). Hardybroad tolerance species such as kahikatea, cabbage tree and harakekeare usually planted with the pioneers.

STEP FIVE- What to plant, where?

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The ‘Native Plants for Gullies’ table will help you find plants thatwill suit both your needs and the conditions at your site. Use theinformation that you collected in Step Two about site conditions(soil type, drainage, shade etc.) and your project goals from StepThree (erosion, views, bird life etc.) to select the right plants forthe right spot.

Once you have decided what plants are going where, draw themon to your Concept plan, showing the names of each plant in theposition that they will be planted. This will ensure that everyoneworking on the project will know where certain plants are supposedto go. This will also help you work out how many plants you aregoing to need overall and how much of the area you can affordto do at any one stage. As more resources become available youcan progress into other areas.

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The Native Plants for Gullies section will show you what plants willgrow best in the early, middle or late stages of your planting. It willalso help you decide on which combinations of plants grow togetherso that you can reconstruct plant communities similar to thoseoriginally found in Hamilton gullies. There was a great variety ofspecies in the original plant communities so there is no single recipefor success.

Initially you will only need to budget for plants that will grow inthe early stages of the restoration. Middle or late plants can beplanted at a later stage as outlined above.

There are a few native plants that arepoisonous if eaten. Be aware of theseplants when using them in a restoration.All parts of rangiora and kowhai arepoisonous. For both of these plants seekmedical advice immediately. Do not inducevomiting or give fluids.

Think carefully about where different plants should go.Placing plants randomly with little thought to the finalappearance of the planting is unlikely to create a pleasingresult. Imagine how the tree or shrub might look when it ismature and how much space it is likely to take up. To ensureplant survival, match the right plant to its preferred site in thegully.

Plant in groups or clumps of the same species avoiding straightlines or rows. This will help the planting look more natural andallow the grouped trees to shelter and support one another.Planting in groups of the same species will also aid pollinationso that your plants will self seed and produce fruit and nectarfor birds. Some species need both male and female plants,and you cannot tell male and female seedlings apart. Having4 or 5 of one plant will increase your chances of ending upwith some of each. Check with your local nursery to find outwhich plants have both male and females.

Plant densely. On average you will need one plant per squaremetre. This will help to reduce weeds by shading them out,and will copy natural forest conditions. However, take intoaccount how large the plant will grow.

Leave openings for views and for safety. Create areas withviews framed by trees and shrubs. Make sure plants do nothang over walkways, blocking lines of sight and creating placeswhere people can hide.

Look for a balance in your plantings, with variations in plantheights, light and shade, shapes and textures.

Your planting programme should take into account the variousstages that occur throughout a restoration. Try and copy thenatural stages of growth in a forest and plant early speciesfirst. Leave spaces amidst your planting for later species thatwill need shade, shelter and protection from the cold. Preparea list of the different species you want to include in your gullyrestoration and mark them according to the stage at whichthey should be planted.

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Getting the plants for your restoration may take some time, dependingon whether you are going to buy them or grow them yourself. Startplanning where you will get your plants from well before yourplanting date. Remember, plant in stages. Don’t attempt to plantall at once.

NOTE:When selecting plants for your restoration project, aim to use ‘eco-sourced’plants, (plants sourced locally from natural bush areas in the Waikato area).Planting native plants grown from material collected in this region will helpto retain the special natural character of the plant by avoiding cross-breedingwith foreign plants. These plants are well-adapted for the climate and soilsof this area and will generally do better and flower and fruit more. In general,large plants grown in the right sized pot will grow better as they are lesslikely to be smothered by weeds. Avoid large plants that have become rootbound in small pots.

Local nurseries may be able to provide you with some ‘eco-sourced’native plants, but may not have the full range that you require. Acontractual arrangement with a reliable nursery to collect localseed and grow the plants for you could be one way to obtain goodplants at a low cost. Linking up with other organisations interestedin re-vegetation may enable you to share the plants and the cost.If your property borders a Council owned gully and you wish tobe involved in planting the public area, the Council may be ableto provide you with plants and assistance.

Growing your own plants is a useful way of getting to know thembetter. When you collect seed and propagate your own nativeplants, costs are likely to be lower. Ideally, the best ‘eco-sourcing’of seed is from vegetation already existing in your gully. If therearen’t enough trees and shrubs in your gully providing seed,contact Hamilton City Council who will advise you on whereyou can collect seed and will give the permission to do so. Seethe ‘Seed Collection and Propagation of Native Plants’ tablein the Appendices for more information.

STEP SIX- Where to get your plants?

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The success of a gully restoration is dependent on good sitepreparation. Weed control is essential for a successful restoration,as gully weeds will overwhelm young native plants. Remove weedsand deal with their seedling re-growth before doing planting as itis difficult to control weeds which are mixed up with your newplants.Your plants will grow faster if there is no competition fromweeds for light, soil nutrients and water, and where there is suitabledrainage. Weed control is also essential for natural regeneration(emergence of seedlings) of native plants.

Weeds are plants that are growing where they are not wanted.Many have been brought into New Zealand as garden plants andbecause of the different growing conditions in New Zealand, havebecome a problem by smothering or strangling plants and trees andreplacing the native vegetation. There are many different types ofweeds that might be present in your gully. The ‘Weed Identificationand Control Methods’ table in the appendices will help you identifywhat they are and give advice on the best method to remove them.

Having chosen and pegged off the part of your gully you wish torestore, and having identified the remnant native plants that needto be retained (p10 and ‘weed identification and control methodsp 51), the next step is weed destruction. The best methods dependon the weed size. Big trees such as pine, gum and wattle needfelling; an arborist may be required. Privet and willow can bemanaged more easily. Willow can regrow from cut off pieces so killby scarfing or drilling the trunk and inserting undiluted glyphosate.Other small trees can be cut off and the cut stump treated withherbicide. In general, total weed destruction is preferable to weedingaround your plantings, which can be time consuming.On steep banks, to keep the risk of erosion low, clear a small areaat one time, leaving the roots of dead weeds in to stabilise theground. Plant immediately and densely with your new natives.On sites where weeds have been sprayed with a non residualherbicide like glyphosate, you can plant through the natural mulchof dead weeds.

STEP SEVEN- Preparing your site for planting

22

Weed Control

Try to control weeds by physically removing them, even thoughit might take a little extra effort. Where possible, minimise theuse of chemical sprays for weed control, as some chemicals mayhave an impact upon the environment:

1. Hand pull or dig out small plants and their roots.

2. Large plants can be cut and their stumps painted with a chemical gel / paste.

3. Some plants can be mulched and composted, however there are weeds that will survive this process and will need to be landfilled, for example wandering jew.

4. The use of a non residual systemic herbicide has the advantages of a no withholding period before you plant, and of killing weed roots which may otherwise re-sprout.

5. When clearing vegetation from each planting position, chip off the surface vegetation in a 500mm circle with your spade. This will help prevent re-growth of weeds.

23

Herbicide versus physical control of weeds

Herbicides are useful if you have a large site or difficult to controlweeds. If this is necessary then try to use the ones which have thelowest toxicity rating and environmental impact necessary to controlthat particular weed. Try to use only as much spray as is required.Doing this will not only reduce environmental effects but will costyou less.

Cut and paint stumps of woody weeds where possible as thisuses fewer chemicals than spraying. There is a new herbicide gelthat can be applied directly to the cut stem or foliage, killing theweed without harming the surrounding environment.See the Weedbusters website at http://www.wedbusters.org.nzfor more information. Using a weedwiper or weed brush to applyherbicide minimizes spray drift and allows you to spot controlweeds.It is also recommended that an additive such as Codacide Oil orPulse is mixed with the spray. It acts as a penetrant and antidriftagent and enhances the rainfastness of the chemicals applied.

If you do need to spray individual planting sites, do so in a ‘Z’pattern rather than spraying in a circle. Circular spraying appliestoo much spray in the centre and the chemicals may affect yourplants. There will also be too little spray at the edge and weedswill rapidly take over.

Observe how heavy rain soaks or runs away at each of your plantingsites. You may need to improve the drainage by digging channelsto remove water.

In sites that are likely to be waterlogged in winter, diga small mound and plant into the top of it. Raising theplanting area in this way will let water drain from theplant’s roots and will increase the chances of survival.In heavy clay, dig the mound and place soil on top ofthe clay.

In dry areas, dig a small hollow so that water will collectin the base and keep the plant moist.

24

Herbicide use

Now that you have your site prepared and your plants are oldenough, you are ready to start planting.

Set the plants out in their positions (see your Planting Plan).Make sure they have been soaked in a bucket until the potstops bubbling and are not sitting in the sun.

Dig a large hole, deeper and wider than the root ball, so thatthe roots are not cramped. Loosen the soil at the bottom ofthe hole to make it easier for the roots to get started and tohelp drainage. If the plant is root bound, very gently teasethe roots out to help them to grow straight.

Put the plant in the hole about 10cm deeper than the finalposition you want and replace the soil around the roots. Ifadding fertiliser make sure it doesn’t touch the roots as it willburn them. Pull the plant up so that the top of the root ballis 2cm below the level of the soil. This will straighten anyroots that are twisted or swept up. Fill in the rest of the hole.

Gently firm the soil around the plant with your hands or soleof your foot and leave the soil on top light and loose. Leavea small depression around the base of the plant to trap water.Be careful not to over compact.

Water at the time of planting!

Surround with mulch to keep weeds out and to keep the soilmoist.

STEP EIGHT- Planting

25

Planting Method

Time of yearPlanting can be done at any time of the year as long as you haveaccess to a good water supply at your site. However, for dry sites(gully bank tops) planting is best done in late autumn to early springwhen the soil is damp. Gully floors are wet and cold (frosty) in thewinter, so this area is best planted during spring to autumn. Thesame applies to any other frost prone site, but you will need towater the plants throughout summer. Mulching will help plants tosurvive at any time of the year, especially on open sites.

Mulching will help to control weed growth, reduce moisture lossand add nutrients to the soil. Many materials can be used as mulchincluding (untreated) wood shavings or sawdust, compost, grassclippings, plant material, stones, wet newspaper and even old (non-synthetic) carpet. However, do not use mulch on wet sites oranywhere near water flow as it is likely to be washed away andcould cause stream blockages.

Your planting is more likely to be successful with strong andhealthy plants, correctly prepared sites, good planting techniquesand the right selection of plants for the area.

The right plant in the right site, at the right time equals success.Get advice from a professional if you are unsure.

Plant on a cool morning or an overcast day and avoid windydays. Soak plant in a bucket of water until rootball is thoroughlywet.

Don’t pull the plant out of the bag by its stem. Cut the bagor turn the plant upside down and carefully remove.

Plant in clumps so plants protect each other from wind, frostand drought

On hot and dry sites, mulch around plants to keep soil cool and moist.

Where severe frosts are likely, plant sensitive plants on northfacing gully sides or beneath trees.

At windy sites, shelter behind wind tolerant plants, stake orconstruct a windbreak.

26

Now that you have your plants in place, your work isn’t over yet!One of the most important stages in any restoration programmeis ongoing maintenance. This is essential to ensure that all yourplants survive and that your site doesn’t get taken over by weeds.Neglecting to look after your gully may mean that you will haveto start all over again, losing all the time and resources that youput into it in the first place.

The ongoing maintenance stage is also a good time to monitorany successes or failures that you may have encountered. Youcan use this information when you begin further zones in yourrestoration and it could save you time and money in the future.While you are maintaining your planting is a good time to startpropagating your own trees and shrubs for the next stage of yourrestoration.

Releasing (Weed control)Releasing is the removal of weeds from around planted treesand shrubs and is essential to ensure the survival of your plants.Use a tool such as a grubber or slasher for cutting back vegetation,or pull weeds by hand being careful not to damage the roots ofyour plants. In gullies where weeds such as Wandering Jew orJapanese Honeysuckle are a problem, releasing should be doneevery month during the growing season.

Weed matsOrganic weed mats, which support the soil’s natural processes,are a good way to stop weeds from taking over your site andfrom strangling your plants. Old (non-synthetic) carpet cut intosquares and placed around each tree is a great way of keepingthe weeds at bay and the carpet will break down over time.

STEP NINE- Establishment and ongoing maintenance

27

WateringMake sure your plants are kept watered until they are wellestablished and can look after themselves, especially throughoutthe summer months.

Protect from the windOn windy sites, tie young trees loosely to a stake for support with flexible ties that allow the plant room to grow. Place the stake so that it supports the plant from the prevailing wind direction, often a double stake is best. Drive in stakes before planting to avoid damaging roots.

MonitoringKeep a record of any plant losses and the reasons why you thinkthey may have died. Every gully is different and there may be some conditions in your gully that certain plants don’t like. Thisinformation will be useful when you move on to other areas.

Ongoing plantingReplace failed plants with suitable alternatives if necessary. Middleand late stage plants can be planted once your early plants arewell established and some canopy cover is achieved. This couldtake a couple of years from the time of your first planting. Oncethe canopy is established it will start to control the weeds soother slower growing species can be planted along with groundcovers and ferns. Seed collection and scattering at your restorationsite is a good method for enhancement after the first stages ofrestoration have been completed.

BiodiversityHamilton’s gully systems originally contained a wide diversity ofnative plants-at least 250 species! Our native birds require a widerange of year round food sources; seeds, nectar and insects, andwe can ensure their return by planting a wide range of nativespecies in our restorations.

28

Animal pestsPossums in particular can cause considerable damage to yourplants and along with rats, mice, stoats and weasels reduce thebreeding success of native birds by eating their eggs and fledglings.Control of animal pests in an urban setting needs special careand attention. There are potential hazards for domestic pets andyoung children. Cage trapping is the best option for possumsbut bait stations with poison can be safely used if they are placedwhere only the target pest can access them. Consult pest controlexperts before you start.

Measuring successThere are a number of ways that you can measure the successof your gully restoration. Indicators of success could include:

Make regular checks of your plants for signs of animal pests or weed invasionand deal with the problem.

Don’t dump garden waste into gullies as it may include plants or seed that mayspread and infest native plantings. The dumping of garden waste into gulliesis how many of Hamilton’s gullies have become overridden with weeds.

Keep your plants watered, especially over spring and summer.

Look out for your first naturally regenerating seedlings and make sure theydon’t get smothered by weeds.

Keep your cats in at night when birds are nesting or looking after young, toencourage the return of native birds to gullies.

Natural regeneration of plants and trees from seed droppedby vegetation that you have planted or that has been broughtinto the site by birds and wind

The amount of bird and animal life in the gully

The extent of weed populations

The extent of community ownership of the gully area andthe restoration project

CARE OF YOUR GULLY

29

1.

2.

3.

4.

Expertise and Information

Hamilton City Council• Sustainable Environment Team

The University of Waikato• Centre for Biodiversity and Ecology Research

Environment WaikatoBiosecurity Pest Plant Contractorwith Environment WaikatoDepartment of ConservationTui 2000

Hamilton City Council EnvirofundEnvironment Waikato Environment Initiatives FundWEL Energy Trust

Commercial Nurseries

Anntons Nursery1896 Hamilton RdCambridge(07) 827 4144

Full Bloom Nursery ltd524 Morrinsville Rd, Hamilton(07) 856 4515http://www.fullbloom.co.nz

Treeline NurseryDiane Edmonds477 Tauranga Direct Rd, Rotorua(07) 332 3313

Community Nurseries

Peter MorrisFuchsia LaneMatangi(07) 829 5763

HCC NurseryCommunity Planting Programme(07) 838 6699

Wayne BennettHakarimata RdNgaruawahia(07) 8247167

Some nurseries will need prior notice to ensure that the plants youreceive are eco-sourced.

30

07 838 6642

07 856 2889

07 856 71840800BIOSECURITY

07 838 336307 856 6944

APPENDICES3

Useful ReferencesAuckland Regional Council 1997: National Surveillance Plant Pests

Clarkson, B.D.; Clarkson, B.R.; Downs, T.M. 2001: Indigenous vegetation types ofHamilton Ecological District. Centre for Biodiversity and Ecology Research,The University of Waikato, Hamilton. 15pp

Clarkson, B.D & McQueen, J.C 2004: Ecological Restoration in Hamilton City, NorthIsland New Zealand. 16th International Conference, Society for EcologicalRestoration, August 24-26 2004, Victoria, Canada

Clarkson, B.D.; Merrett, M.; Downs, T. (comps) 2002: Botany of the Waikato. WaikatoBotanical Society, Hamilton. 136pp

* Clarkson, B.R. and Clarkson, B.D. 2000: Indigenous Vegetation Types of Hamilton City,Landcare Research and Centre for Biodiversity and Ecology Research.

* Clarkson, B.D.; McGowan, R.; Downs, T.: Hamilton Gullies. A workshop hosted by theUniversity of Waikato and sponsored by the Hamilton City Council, 29-30April 2000. Centre for Biodiversity and Ecology Research, University ofWaikato.

Crowe, A. 1997: The life-sized guide to native trees and other common plants of NZ’snative forest, Viking, Auckland.

* Crowe, A. 1997: The quickfind guide to growing native plants. Viking, Auckland.

Department of Conservation: Tree planting for native birds, Fact Sheet, June 2000.

Downs, T.M.; Clarkson, B.D.; Beard, C.M. 2000: Key Ecological Sites of Hamilton City:Volume 1 Survey Report. CBER Contract Report Number 5. Centre forBiodiversity and Ecology Research, The University of Waikato, Hamilton.

Metcalfe, L. 1997: The propagation of New Zealand Native Plants.

* Leathwick, J.R.; Clarkson, B.D.; Whaley, P.T. 1995: Vegetation of the Waikato Region.Current and Historical Perspectives. Landcare Research, Hamilton.

* Porteous, T. 1993: Native Forest Restoration: A practical guide for landowners.

Riley, M. 1994: Maori healing and herbal, Viking Seven Seas.

Roy, B. et al. 1998: An illustrated guide to Common Weeds of NZ, NZ Plant Protection Society.

* Bay of Plenty Regional Council: www.boprc.govt.nz/www/green/weedindc.htm

Environment Waikatowww.ew.govt.nz/ourenvironment/land/biodiversity/index.htmwww.ew.govt.nz/ourenvironment/pests/index.htm

Hort Researchwww.hortresearch.co.nz/bet/products/vigilant

* Publication used in the preparation of this guide. 31

Soil Characterisation Guide

There are a number of very different regions within a gully and each hasdifferent types of soils. Your gully may have some, or all of the regionsthat are shown on the following ‘Gully profile’, and include the hillslopeand crest, footslope, backswamp, levee and terrace. The major types ofsoils found in gullies can be divided into simple classifications, includingsand (ash), pumice soil, clay, organic material and peat. Recognising thesetypes of soils at your site will help you decide what plants will grow bestin the different areas.

The soils of the hillslope and crest are usually sandy and are very welldrained. Often in summer only plants that can withstand droughts willsurvive here in the early years of planting. Very little organic material isfound in this zone as it is usually washed down the slope. Depending onthe gradient of the gully side, these soils are often prone to erosion andthe right plants must be selected to retain site stability.

The footslope is a narrow zone with fertile soils and is often the best zonein the gully for planting and growing. This is commonly the site whereorganic material from the gully slopes has accumulated and has abundantnutrients for good plant growth. The footslope has good drainage whereit meets the hillslope and poorer drainage near the terrace peatland.

The backswamp is a very poorly drained area and at certain times of theyear may be covered in water. The soils of the backswamp are largelywaterlogged peat and only swamp plants are likely to grow in this area.

The levee is a slightly raised and better drained habitat adjoining thestream.

The terrace is a flat alluvial plain adjacent the stream. Some terracescomprise peatland which can be of considerable depth. Many plant speciesare not tolerant of peat soils and will not survive so identification of theseareas is very important. Other areas are well drained with silts and loamsand are much easier to restore.

The following section will help you identify what types of soil arepresent at your site. Once you know what soils you have in yourarea you can work out what trees and shrubs you can plant.

32

The water table will vary at each of the different regions of the gullyand will also fluctuate between winter and summer. Knowing whereyour water table is and how wet or dry the soil is will influence whatyou plant, where, and whether or not you will need to water certainareas over summer. See the soil profiles for an indication of where thewater table might be in the areas of your gully.

Soil

Types

Bookm

ark

The pumice horizon is a very thinlayer within the sand horizon.

SAND:Fine and gritty soilthat will not forminto a ball whensqueezed.

PUMICE:Light colouredand porous soilwith differentsized pieces ofpumice within thehorizon (layer).

CLAY:Moist soil that isvery firm andgreasy or sticky.Can be rolled intoa ball.

ORGANICMATTER:D a r k b r o w ntopso i l . Mayc o n t a i n t h ed e c o m p o s e dremains of plantand animal life.

PEAT:Dark black, rawslightly organicm a t t e ra c c u m u l a t e dunder swampconditions.

33

The following ‘Native Plants for Gullies’ table provides informationon a selection of native trees, shrubs and ferns found in Hamilton’sgullies.

Fold out the ‘Guide To Symbols’ page for easy reference.

Plant NamePlants have been listed by Common name, Maori name (or both)and the botanical name is given below this in italics. A photo of theplant will help you to identify it or to visualise it when selectingplants for your project.

Habitat and Visual DescriptionA description of the plant is given to help you identify it and additionalinformation is provided on the conditions that this plant prefers togrow in.

Native Plants for Gullies

Can be planted in the first stage of the restorationand will provide protection for the next stage. Theirfast growth suppresses weeds and they attract birdsto encourage natural seeding of other native species.

Middle and late plants need protection from frostand wind and can tolerate lower light levels thanearly plantings. Protection from early plantings willspeed up their growth.

When to Plant

Zone Area of gully plants prefer to grow in. See ‘Gully Profile’ diagram.Light Amount of light plants tolerate or prefer.Drainage Amount of water in the soil that plants tolerate or prefer.Wind/Frost Indicates if plant requires shelter or if it is sensitive to frost.

Restoration Aim

Planting Conditions

Backswamp

Restoration AimAttracts BirdsF = fruitN = nectarS = seed

Screen

Suitable for ErosionControl

Rongoa Maori(Traditional Maori medicine)

Allows Views10m Maximum HeightPlant will Grow to

Planting Conditions

Planting Zone

5

1

2

3

4

Hillslope and crest

Colluvial footslope

Levee

Terrace (Peatland)Plants that will toleratepeat soils are shownas 5 P

Best Planting zoneshown in bold.Subsequent zoneslisted in order ofpriority.

Light

prefers fullsun

prefers partialshade

prefers fullshade

Soil Water (Drainage)

well drainedsoil

medium soildrainage

poorly drainedsoil

frost sensitiverequiresshelter

Early stage

Middle stageLate stage

10m

Attracts birds to feed on thefruit (F), seeds (S), or nectar (N).

The maximum height to whichthis plant will grow. In metres (m)or centimetres (cm).

Suitable for erosion control.

Can be planted as a screen tohide certain areas.

Will not block out views.

Rongoa Maori. This plant is atraditional Maori medicine.

Guide To Symbols

34

native trees

Plan

t N

ame

Hab

itat

and

Vis

ual

Des

crip

tion

Whe

n to

Pla

nt

Res

tora

tion

Aim

Planting Conditions

ZON

E

LIG

HT

DR

AIN

AG

E

WIN

D/

FRO

ST

CABBAGE TREETI KOUKA

Cordyline australis

early

to

late

Slender trunk,spiky leaves ontufted heads.

Good in groupswith flax.

Very adaptable butbest in wet soils.

Tolerates a rangeof site conditions.

KAIKOMAKOPennantiacorymbosa

Small tree with atwiggy juvenilestage.

Producesabundant whiteflowers.

Fast Growing.

early

early

FSN

FS

10m

30m

FN

8m

3

4

5

2

5

2

p

35

Bruce Clarkson

3

2

5p

KAHIKATEADacrycarpusdacrydioides

4

Bruce Clarkson

Bruce Clarkson

Bruce Clarkson

Tall tree, conicalwhen young.

Red fruit inautumn.

Prefers damp,open sites withrich soils.

Separate maleand female trees.

native trees

Plan

t N

ame

Hab

itat

and

Vis

ual

Des

crip

tion

Whe

n to

Pla

nt

Res

tora

tion

Aim

Planting Conditions

ZON

E

LIG

HT

DR

AIN

AG

E

WIN

D/

FRO

ST

36

KOHUHUPittosporumtenuifolium

early

FSN

8m

5

Small tree withvaried leaf colour.

Dark red, scentedflowers.

Will not toleratewater logging orvery dry sites.

Tolerates poorsoils (sand/clay/pumice).

1

2

Bruce Clarkson

KAURIAgathis australis

early

Tall tree withblue/greyhammer-markedbark.

Thick and leatheryleaves with largefemale cones,5-8cm.

Slow growth andpyramidal shape.

Tolerates poor soil.

1

Bruce Clarkson

25m(10m in30yrs)

KOWHAISophora microphylla

early

N

8m

4

5

2Small deciduoustree with brightyellow flowers andspreading twiggyhabit.

Feathery leaveswith 20-40 pairsof leaflets.

Diverse open sites,stream banks,rocky places.

Fast growing.Bruce Clarkson

native trees

Plan

t N

ame

Hab

itat

and

Vis

ual

Des

crip

tion

Whe

n to

Pla

nt

Res

tora

tion

Aim

Planting Conditions

ZON

E

LIG

HT

DR

AIN

AG

E

WIN

D/

FRO

ST

37

Bruce Clarkson

LACEBARKHoheria

sexstylosa

LANCEWOODHOROEKAPseudopanax

crassifolius

early

early

to

mid

dle

10m

F

8m

1

2

5

Fast growing treewith deeplytoothed narrowleaves.

Mass display ofwhite flowers inautum.

Tolerates pooralluvial soils.

Frost hardy.

4

Hardy tree withthick leaves.

Young plant haslong leaves, liketoothed spears ona straightbranchless trunk.

Adult plant hasmuch shorter,broader leaves.

1

2

5

4

Bruce Clarkson

MAHOEMelicytusramiflorus

early

to

mid

dle FS

8m

4

5

Small tree with awhite trunk.

Purple-blue berriesalong the twigs.

Moist to wet soil.

Fast growing andgood as a nursetree.

1

2

Bruce Clarkson

Bruce Clarkson

Bruce Clarkson

native trees

Plan

t N

ame

Hab

itat

and

Vis

ual

Des

crip

tion

Whe

n to

Pla

nt

Res

tora

tion

Aim

Planting Conditions

ZON

E

LIG

HT

DR

AIN

AG

E

WIN

D/

FRO

ST

38

MARBLE LEAFPUTAPUTAWETA

Carpodetusserratus

early

to

mid

dle FSN

8m

Small fast growingtree.

Juvenile tree hasdistinctive zig-zagginginterlacingbranchlets

Needs shelter.

Prefers wet soil.

Frost hardy.

2

4

5

Bruce Clarkson

Bruce Clarkson

Bruce Clarkson

MAPOUMyrsine australis

mid

dle

8m

1

5

2

Small tree with redstems and lightgreen leaves.

Small round blackfruit.

Fast growing andhardy.

FS

MANATURIBBONWOODPlagianthus regius

early

to

mid

dle 15m

Tree with soft,coarsely toothedleaves, deciduous.

Small-leaved,divaricating juvenileform to 2m.

Abundant small,white flowers indense clusters Oct-Jan.

5

4

native trees

Plan

t N

ame

Hab

itat

and

Vis

ual

Des

crip

tion

Whe

n to

Pla

nt

Res

tora

tion

Aim

Planting Conditions

ZON

E

LIG

HT

DR

AIN

AG

E

WIN

D/

FRO

ST

39

PIGEONWOODPOROKAIWHIRI

Hedycaryaarborea

mid

dle

to la

te

F

6m

1Small tree withdark glossy leaveson black branches.

Bright orange/redfruit on femaletrees.

2

3

MATAIPrumnopitys

taxifolia

early

F

20m

4

5

2Tall tree withgrey/brownhammer-markedbark.

Juvenile planthas tangledappearance andis fast growing.

Alluvial, welldrained sites.

Frost tolerant.

Bruce Clarkson

Bruce Clarkson

3

5p

PUKATEALaurelia

novae-zelandiae

late

25m

5

2Large tree withglossy toothedleaves.

Needs deep, dark,damp soil inswampy areas.

Requires shelter.

Bruce Clarkson

native trees

Plan

t N

ame

Hab

itat

and

Vis

ual

Des

crip

tion

Whe

n to

Pla

nt

Res

tora

tion

Aim

Planting Conditions

ZON

E

LIG

HT

DR

AIN

AG

E

WIN

D/

FRO

ST

40

SWAMP MAIREWAIWAKA

Syzygium maire

mid

dle

to la

te

F

15m

5

2Locally rare treetypically inhabitingswampy conditions.

White flowers andred berries.

Develops breathingroots inwaterlogged soils.

3

5p

2

5

REWAREWAKnightia excelsa

early

to

mid

dle

25m

N

Tall tree, slenderupright habit,showy red flowers.

Dry to moist soil.

Will not standwater logging.

Needs shelter.

1

RIMUDacrydium

cupressinum

early

to

mid

dle

25m

Cone shaped treewith weeping cordlike foliage.

Dark brown barkscaling off in largeflakes.

Diverse lowlandsites.

2

1

5

Bruce Clarkson

Bruce Clarkson

Bruce Clarkson

41native trees

Plan

t N

ame

Hab

itat

and

Vis

ual

Des

crip

tion

Whe

n to

Pla

nt

Res

tora

tion

Aim

Planting Conditions

ZON

E

LIG

HT

DR

AIN

AG

E

WIN

D/

FRO

ST

TITOKIAlectryonexcelsus

early

to

late

FS

15m

1

2

Tall tree withspreading crown.

Large shiny leavesand capsules withblack oily seedssurrounded byscarlet red flesh insummer.

Young plants frostintolerant.

4

5

TAWABeilschmiedia

tawa

late

15m

FS

Large spreadingtree with willowlike foliage.

Black fruit inautumn.

Prefers rich, welldrained soil.

Requires shelter.

2

1

5

TANEKAHAPhyllocladus

trichomanoides

mid

dle

25m

Tall moderatelyfast growing treewith conical shape.

Small conesclustered onmargins ofcladodes (leaf-likebranchlets).

The fruit is a nutwhich ripens latesummer/autumn.

1

Bruce Clarkson

Bruce Clarkson

Wayne Bennett

42 native trees

Plan

t N

ame

Hab

itat

and

Vis

ual

Des

crip

tion

Whe

n to

Pla

nt

Res

tora

tion

Aim

Planting Conditions

ZON

E

LIG

HT

DR

AIN

AG

E

WIN

D/

FRO

ST

WINEBERRYMAKOMAKO

Aristoteliaserrata

early

FSN

6m

1Fast growing smalltree.

Clusters of pinkflowers in springfollowed by berriesin summer.

Rapid growth inmoist open sites.

4

Bruce Clarkson

TOTARAPodocarpus

totara

early

TREE FUCHSIAKOTUKUTUKUFuchsia excorticata

early

to

late

F

20m

6m

2

FN

Tall tree with thickgrooved bark.

Narrow, stiff andsharply pointedleaves.

Slow growing.

Drought and frosttolerant.

Small tree withspreading habitand droopinggreenish flowers.

Purple/black fruitand distinctivepapery bark.

Deciduous inexposed sites.

Moist gullies.

Droughtintolerant.

2

5

4

5

Bruce Clarkson

Bruce Clarkson

43native trees / shrubs

Plan

t N

ame

Hab

itat

and

Vis

ual

Des

crip

tion

Whe

n to

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nt

Res

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tion

Aim

Planting Conditions

ZON

E

LIG

HT

DR

AIN

AG

E

WIN

D/

FRO

ST

KANUKAKunzea ericoides

early

5-7m

1Distinctive treewith tiny, softnarrow leaves.

Leaves with apleasant aromaticscent.

Small narrowcapsule and whiteflowers.

Sunny, alluvial, hillslopes.

KIEKIEFreycinetia baueriana

late

1Woody perennialclimber up treetrunks or insprawling masseson ground. Stemsproduce aerialroots and haveterminal tufts ofdrooping, linearleaves.A large,cone-shapedinflorescence sitswithin fleshybracts and ripensby May.

weaving

2

Wayne Bennett

3

KARAMUCoprosma

robusta

early

FS

2-4m

1

2

Large shrub withdark green leaves.

Grows in diverse,moist openhabitats.

Good as a nursecrop.

Shiny orange/redfruit, birddistributed.

4

5

Bruce Clarkson

Bruce Clarkson

44 native trees / shrubs

Plan

t N

ame

Hab

itat

and

Vis

ual

Des

crip

tion

Whe

n to

Pla

nt

Res

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tion

Aim

Planting Conditions

ZON

E

LIG

HT

DR

AIN

AG

E

WIN

D/

FRO

ST

KAWAKAWAPEPPER TREE

Macropiper excelsum

Mid

dle

to la

te

FSN

6m

Large shrub witharomatic leaves.

Orange, fleshyinflorescencecontainingpeppery seedsproducedthroughout year.

Prefers rich, well-drained soil.Tolerates shade.

5

2

1

KANONORAUREKAU

Coprosma grandifolia

Mid

dle

to la

te

Large shrub withdull, mottledgreen leaves.

Oblong orange-red fruit ripen 12months afterautumn flowering.

Likes shaded,damp conditions.

FS

10m

4

2

5

Bruce Clarkson

Bruce Clarkson

1

45native shrubs

Plan

t N

ame

Hab

itat

and

Vis

ual

Des

crip

tion

Whe

n to

Pla

nt

Res

tora

tion

Aim

Planting Conditions

ZON

E

LIG

HT

DR

AIN

AG

E

WIN

D/

FRO

ST

Bruce Clarkson

KOROMIKOHebe stricta

early

2m

5

1

2

Hardy shrub withnarrow leaves,white/lilac flowers.

Open ground toriverbanks andbush margins.

Fast growing.

N

MINGIMINGICoprosma propinqua

Twiggy shrub withsmall narrow leaves.

White/blue fruit inautumn and spring.

Prefers boggy soils. early

4m

3

5

5

p

Bruce Clarkson

Bruce Clarkson

MANUKALeptospermum

scoparium

early

4m

1

5

Fast growing smalltree/shrub withmany white flowersin late spring.

Leaves more pricklytipped than kanuka.

Will grow on awide range of soils.

Two varieties:hillslope has broaderleaf, peatland hasnarrower leaf.

3

5

p

46 native shrubs

Plan

t N

ame

Hab

itat

and

Vis

ual

Des

crip

tion

Whe

n to

Pla

nt

Res

tora

tion

Aim

Planting Conditions

ZON

E

LIG

HT

DR

AIN

AG

E

WIN

D/

FRO

ST

RANGIORABrachyglottis repanda

3m

5

2

Large shrub.

Large soft leaves withwhite undersides.

Open ground toriverbanks and bushmargins.

Tolerates poor,dry soil.

mid

dle

to la

te

1

SWAMPCOPROSMA

Coprosma tenuicaulis3m

Erect shrub withinterlacing, slenderbranchlets andblack fruit.

Needs swampyboggy ground.

early

3

Bruce Clarkson

Bruce Clarkson

PATEScheffleradigitata

mid

dle

5m

Large shrub withlarge soft leaves.

White and purpleberries in autumn.

Plant with shelteron a moist site.

Damp soil aidsrapid growth.

FS4

F

Bruce Clarkson

47tussock herbs

Plan

t N

ame

Hab

itat

and

Vis

ual

Des

crip

tion

Whe

n to

Pla

nt

Res

tora

tion

Aim

Planting Conditions

ZON

E

LIG

HT

DR

AIN

AG

E

WIN

D/

FRO

ST

FLAXHARAKEKE

Phormiumtenax

FLAXWHARARIKI

Phormiumcookianum

early

early

2m

N

1.5m

N

3

Upright dark greenleaves with redflowers and erectseed capsules.

Withstands floodingand dry conditions.

Good in swampyareas and forprotecting banks ofstreams/drains.

Particularlyattractive to tui.

2

3

4

5

5 pFans of longdrooping leaves.

Tall spikes oforange or yellowflowers withdrooping seedcapsules.

Usually smallerthan Flax (P. tenax).

2

4

5

1

KAKAHABUSH LILY

Astelia fragrans

late

1m

Arching flax likeleaves with honeyscented flowers.

Large leafy clump,good under trees.

On poorly drainedgully floors thelarger Asteliagrandis is a moredramaticalternative.

2

4

5

Bruce Clarkson

Bruce Clarkson

K McCombs

48 sedges

Plan

t N

ame

Hab

itat

and

Vis

ual

Des

crip

tion

Whe

n to

Pla

nt

Res

tora

tion

Aim

Planting Conditions

ZON

E

LIG

HT

DR

AIN

AG

E

WIN

D/

FRO

ST

SWAMP SEDGECarex virgata

early

1mTussocky sedge.

Open sunnygrasslands,wetlands, to partlyshaded forestmargins.

Slightly betterdrainage than carexsecta.

Can be split orgrown from seed.

BAUMEABaumea rubiginosa

1mReed like sedgewhich toleratesswampyconditions.

SWAMP SEDGECarex secta

early

1m

5

Tussocky sedge,tough andversatile.

Open sunnygrasslands,wetlands, to partlyshaded forestmargins.

Prefers moist soil.

Can be split orgrown from seed.

3

3

early

3

Bruce Clarkson

Bruce Clarkson

49native ferns

Plan

t N

ame

Hab

itat

and

Vis

ual

Des

crip

tion

Whe

n to

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nt

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tora

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Aim

Planting Conditions

ZON

E

LIG

HT

DR

AIN

AG

E

WIN

D/

FRO

ST

KIOKIOBlechnum

novae-zelandiae

late

HEN & CHICKENFERN

Asplenium bulbiferum

MAMAKUBLACK PONGACyathea medullaris

late

mid

dle

75cm

50cm

15m

4

5

5

2

4

5

Small bushy clumpwith pink youngfronds.

Two forms: One inswamps, one ondry banks.

Easy to grow.

2

3

Graceful fern withmany little plantletsgrowing on thefronds.

Prefers moist,shady areas withfertile soils.

2

Large tree fernwith a robusttrunk and thickblack youngfronds and stems.

Plant with shelterin a moist site.

Fast growing.

3

Bruce Clarkson

Bruce Clarkson

Bruce Clarkson

50 native ferns

Plan

t N

ame

Hab

itat

and

Vis

ual

Des

crip

tion

Whe

n to

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Planting Conditions

ZON

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HT

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AG

E

WIN

D/

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ST

PONGASILVER TREE FERN

Cyathea dealbata

mid

dle

WHEKIROUGH TREE FERN

Dicksoniasquarrosa

WHEKI PONGADicksonia fibrosa

mid

dle

mid

dle

10m

5m

6m

4

5

1

5

1

2

45

Medium tree fern.

The underside ofmature fronds aresilver.

Wide crown.

Plant with shelter indamp shaded site.

Needs gooddrainage.

Smaller tree fernwith slender andoften branchingtrunk.

Can form largeclumps.

Rough scratchyfronds.

2

4

Hardy tree fernwith thick trunk.

Retains deadfronds as anattractive skirt.

Hardy, moist openor shady sites.

Frost tolerant.

1

2

Bruce Clarkson

Bruce Clarkson

Bruce Clarkson

51epiphytes and groundcover

PANAKENAKEPratia angulata

Climber withorange red flowersand glossy leaves.

Well drained site atbase of tree.

Grassy leavedepiphytic orchidwith fragrantdelicate flowers.

Attach tobranches or treeferns as forPerching Lily.

Small creepingherb with smalltoothed leaves.

Attractive lobedflower and brightpink-purple fruit.

Plant in semi shadeon hillslope orfootslope.

Grows well inpoorly drained soil.

HANGINGORCHID

Earina mucronata

CLIMBING RATAMetrosideros fulgens

CLIMBING RATAMetrosideros perforata

NerteraNertera dichondrifolia

PERCHING LILYCollospermum

hastatum

Climber with whiteflowers and glanddotted small leaves.

Well drained site atbase of tree.

Small creepingherb withattractive fleshyfruits and smallhairy leaves.

Plant in semishade on hillslopeor footslope.

Tufted perchinglily with flax likeleaves.

Secure in crotch oftree with twine ornetting.

Pack withsphagnum moss tocover roots.

Epiphytes and groundcover can be planted at the latter stages of a restorationonce you have achieved a good canopy cover.

Epiphytes are plants that grow while attached to other plants.

S h i r l e y K e r r

Rob Suisted

Bruce Clarkson Bruce Clarkson

Bruce Clarkson

Bruce Clarkson

Propagation from seed is the best method for propagating nativeplants since it preserves genetic variations within the species. Thefollowing overview will tell you how to go about growing your ownseeds and the table outlines the different techniques to use fordifferent species.

Seed Collection and Propagation ofNative Plants

Seeds should be eco sourced, i.e. collected from natural bush areasin the Hamilton Basin. If in doubt about a seed source, seek advice.Seeds should not be collected without the permission of thelandowner or controlling authority. A good source of seed is naturalbush areas in your local gully, failing this, contact Hamilton CityCouncil (Parks and Gardens) for advice on where to collect seeds.Suitable eco-sourced seeds may be available from Wayne Bennett(ph 824 7167) or Peter Morris (ph 829 5763).

Laying a sheet for a number of weeks beneath trees that are droppingseed is an effective and easy way to collect seeds from tall trees.Make sure the sheet isn’t waterproof so that seed do not sit in poolsof water. A piece of Windbreak fabric works well.

Before sowing or storing seed for sowing later, some seed mustbe cleaned to remove material such as fleshy fruit and seed husks.The following table identifies the best ways to clean seeds fromdifferent species and an explanation of abbreviations used is given:

FS= friction, sieveSFSD= soak, friction, sieve, dryFSS= friction, sand, sieve

Soak: Soak the seeds in water for 2-3 days.Friction: Rub the seeds together to break husks.Sieve: Sieve the seeds to remove any fleshy or dry material.Dry: Spread seeds in a warm place to dry to prevent fungal growth.Sand: Mixing with sand will help seperate sticky seeds.

52

Seed that has been collected and cleaned can be stored in dryconditions (airtight containers) at 4.5°C for future use.

Use clean plastic or wooden trays or pots that allow for drainage.Fill the container with seed raising mix and firm lightly. Spread seedevenly and not too densely on the surface of the mix. Cover witha fine layer of pumice sand. Fine seeds will scatter more easily ifmixed with sand. Water well using a spray bottle or a watering canand cover the container with glass or enclose in a plastic bag toreduce moisture loss. Place in a warm location sheltered from windand strong sunlight. Keep the seed mix moist and ventilated, andremove the cover once germination begins.

When the seedlings are a few centimetres high transplant into smallpots or trays. Transplant again when the seedlings are larger andthe roots need more space. Larger pots or containers such as oldmilk cartons with holes for drainage are ideal. Plants are ready forplanting out once they reach at least 50cm in height. They willneed to be larger for more cold sensitive species.

Seed sowing tips

Mechanical: Breaking the seed coat with a knife.

Cold treatment: Placing moist seeds in the fridge (4°C) for a specified length of time. This simulates the

natural conditions over winter before seeds germinate in spring.

Treatment of seeds can speed up germination in some species. Themain types of seed treatments are:

Fresh is best. Seed should be sown as soon as possible aftercollection.Cleaning seed is not usually necessary unless you are going tostore it.Some seeds need to be soaked for several days to kill bugs. Suchspecies include swamp maire, tawa and lacebark.

1.

2.

3.

53

To maintain the genetic diversity, plants used for restoration ofnatural vegetation should be propagated from seed, or from cuttingstaken from a large number of individual plants.

54

CommentsCommon orMaori name

Colour of ripefruit

Seedcollection

time

Seedcleaning

Seed TreatmentSowfresh

Stratify at 4 C(weeks) see p 53

TREESCabbage tree

Five Finger

KahikateaKanuka

Kauri

Kohuhu

KowhaiLacebark

Lancewood

MahoeMarble leaf

Matai

Pigeonwood

Pukatea

RewarewaRimu

Swampmaire

Tawa

Titoki

Totara

Tree fuchsia

Wineberry

SHRUBSFlax/(Harakeke,Wharariki)

Hebe

Karamu

Mingimingi

Rangiora

FERNS

Cream

Dark burgundyIndigo-red

Reddish brown

Dark green cone

Black

Yellowish brown

BrownDark burgundy

PurpleBlack

Dark bluish black

Dark purple

BrownBrownBlack/red

Red

Dark purple

Red-blackGreen-red

Dark red to black

Deep red

Black

Brown

OrangeBlue

Off-white

Feb-Mar

Feb-Apr

Feb-Apr

Feb-May

Feb-Apr

Jan-AprMar-May

Mar-May

Apr-Jun

Jul-AugMay-Jun

Jan-Apr

Mar-May

Nov-Jan

Apr-JunApr-Jun

Jan-Apr

Nov-Mar

Dec-Feb

Oct-Dec

Apr-May

Jan-Feb

Jan-Mar

Nov-Mar

Mar-May

Mar-Apr

Jan-Feb

Scatter dry fern fronds (with spore cases apparent) in areas where you want ferns to grow.Tree ferns will usually colonise naturally.

SFSD

SFSD

SFSD

SFSD

SFSD

SFSD

SFSDSFSD

FS

FS

FS

FS

FS

FSFS

FS

FSS

FS

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

8

2

5-6

38-10

6

20

14

243

4

2

3

3

3

3

4

2

Best results from ripe seed

Remove capsules whenripe & dry to release seed

Good seed is flat and firm

Sticky seeds (use sand)Prick with a pin

Fast growing

Seeds often slow togerminate

Not necessary to removeseed from seed shell

Does not store wellStore seed less than 1 year

Sporadic seeder

Plantlets thin leaved andprone to drying out

Seed needs to be welldried

Flax plants can be split upand the outside leavestrimmed back

Germination uneven

Light germination. Coverseed with thin layer ofgravel

Manuka Reddish brown Anytime FS Yes

Seeds may be slow togerminate

Sporadic seeder

Do not allow seed todry out

The following are weeds that you need toconsider when restoring a gully. Some areclassified pest plants under the BiosecurityAct and the Waikato Regional PestManagement Strategy. Information is givenfor both physical and chemical control ofthese weeds: for specific information onchemical application, including herbiciderates, visit the weed search atwww.weedbusters.org.nz. Where possibleremove weeds by physically removing thevegetation. If herbicide application is needed,choose a method that allows herbicide tobe directly applied to the weeds (e.g. cutand stump painting, boring holes in trunkand filling with herbicide), using overallspraying as a last resort when other optionsare not viable.

For further information contact your localBiosecurity Pest Plant Contractor withEnvironment Waikato (Ph: 0800BIOSECURITY).

Weed Identificationand Control Methods

Northland Regional Council QEII National Trust

Description: Tuberous herb that developsrhizomes under and on top of the soil surfaceand forms clumps. Large green leathery leaveswith a white/green sheath surrounding a yellowspike of flowers - cultivar known as ‘GreenGoddess’ is also a problem.

Recommended control: Dig out smallinfestations_ stem and leaves can be mulchedbut burn or landfill rhizomes. Cut stems andapply herbicide to the fresh cut, or overall spray.

Status: general nuisance weed in gullies.

http://www.weedbusters.org.nz/weed_info/detail.asp?WeedID=43

Description: Scrambling, suckering, thornybush with stems up to 8m long. Flowers Nov-Apr and fruits Nov-May.

Recommended control: Cut, slash or burn whencanes are brittle. Scrape or cut stems and paintwith herbicide or overall spray when in full leaf.

Status: general nuisance weed in gullies.

http://www.weedbusters.org.nz/weed_info/detail.asp?WeedID=88

ARUM LILYZantedeschia aethiopica

BLACKBERRYRubus fructicosus agg.

Northland Regional Council QEII National Trust

55

Description: Rapid growing plant that likesdamp areas and edges of waterways andestablishes from fragments of leaf or stem.�Hollow stems and white clover-like flowers.�Has the potential to cause major environmentaldamage if it establishes in Hamilton’s gullysystem.

Recommended control:� DO NOT ATTEMPTTO CONTROL ALLIGATOR WEED YOURSELF.�Advise Environment Waikato of all possiblesightings.�Status:� direct control plant pest — all controlwork will be carried out by Environment Waikatofree of charge.http://www.weedbusters.org.nz/weed_info/detail.asp?WeedID=6

ALLIGATOR WEEDAlternanthera philoxeroides

Carolyn Lewis

Description: Fast growing, climbing perennialvine with purple/blue trumpet flower.

Recommended control: Hand pull smallinfestations ensuring all roots are removed. Willgrow from stem fragments so do not leave plantmaterial on site. Paint stems of large plants withherbicide or overall spray, or cut the vines atwaist height and spray foliage below- leave vinesion trees to rot down. Follow up will be required.

Status: banned nationally from sale, propagationand distribution.

http://www.weedbusters.org.nz/weed_info/detail.asp?WeedID=75

Description: Woody climber with dark green orvariegated ivory/white leaves. Common ivy hasmany distinctive forms with varying leaf shapeand colouring.

Recommended control: Pull or dig out. Cutstem and paint with herbicide or spray wholeplant taking care not to damage surroundingvegetation. Do not mulch or compost as plantcan grow from cut material.

Status: general nuisance weed in gullies.

http://www.weedbusters.org.nz/weed_info/detail.asp?WeedID=99

Description: Large robust plant with fleshyrhizomes and thick stems with milky sap. Shinygreen leathery, ribbed leaves with white patches.Red/orange glossy berries. Shades out naturalgroundcover.

Recommended control: dig out root system andlandfill or burn, cut plant down to the rootsystem and apply herbicide, or overall spray.Take care when cutting this plant as sap is toxicand can irritate eyes and skin.

Status: general nuisance weed in gullies.

http://www.weedbusters.org.nz/weed_info/detail.asp?WeedID=36

Description: Soft stemmed twining climberwith arrow shaped leaves and large pink funnel-like flowers. Forms a smothering blanket overtrees and shrubs. Pieces of the undergroundstem can regrow.

Recommended control: hand pull; take care toremove extensive spreading roots just belowsoil surface. Foliage can be sprayed for largeinfestations.: Triclopyr (e.g. Grazon®) 60ml/10Lwater.Tordon® Gold or Banvine®120ml/10L water.

Status: general nuisance weed in gullies.

CONVOLVULUS/ Pink BindweedCalystegia sepium

Bruce Clarkson

BLUE MORNING GLORYIpomoea indica

COMMON IVYHedera helix

ELEPHANT EARAlocasia brisbanensis

56

NZ Plant Protection Society

Northland Regional Council

NZ Plant Protection Society

Description: Shrubby small tree forming thickets.Grey/green hairy shoots.

Recommended control: Dig out small plants,cut stems and paint with herbicide, bore holesaround trunks and apply herbicide or overallspray before leaf fall. Cut material can growinto new plants. Seek advice from EnvironmentWaikato Plant Pest Contractors.

Status: general nuisance weed in gullies.

http://www.weedbusters.org.nz/weed_info/detail.asp?WeedID=92

JAPANESE HONEYSUCKLELonicera japonica

JASMINEJasminum polyanthum

KAHILI GINGERHedychium gardnerianum

GREY WILLOWSalix cinerea

57

Description: Vigorous climber with purplishstems when young. Oval leaves with pairs offragrant white/yellow tube like flowers . Blackberries.

Recommended control: Hand pull smallinfestations ensuring all roots are removed; willgrow from stem fragments so do not leave plantmaterial on site. Paint stems of large plants withherbicide, overall spray or cut the vines at waistheight and spray foliage below,- leave deadvines to rot in trees. Follow up will be required.Status: banned from sale, propagation anddistribution.http://www.weedbusters.org.nz/weed_info/detail.asp?WeedID=101

Description: Evergreen climbing shrub withfragrant white flowers. Glossy black fruit.

Recommended control: Cut near ground leveland remove all roots and stems. Plant willresprout if mulched. Cut stem and paint roots.Hand pull small infestations ensuring all rootsare removed, will grow from stem fragmentsso do not leave plant material on site. Paintstems of large plants with herbicide, overallspray, or cut the vines at waist height and sprayfoliage below — leave vines in trees to rot down.Follow up will be required.Status: general nuisance weed in gullies.http://www.weedbusters.org.nz/weed_info/detail.asp?WeedID=100

Description: Robust perennial with large lanceshaped leaves. Massive branching rhizomes.Yellow fragrant flowers with red stamens in Jan-Mar followed by red berries.

Recommended control: Cut back the foliagewhen in active growth and apply herbicide tothe cut rhizomes or overall spray.. Rhizomescan be left in place as they provide good bankstability. Pull or dig out young seedlings in otherareas.. Do not mulch rhizomes as they will spread.

Status: must be removed.

http://www.weedbusters.org.nz/weed_info/detail.asp?WeedID=40

Northland Regional Council

QEII National Trust Bruce Clarkson

NZ Plant Protection Society

Description: Tall growing cutting grass withpurple/pink tufted seed heads.

Recommended control: Pull or dig out smallplants, use digger for large plants, slash andspray regrowth, or overall spray.Plants can be composted or mulched.

Status: banned from sale, propagation anddistribution.

http://www.weedbusters.org.nz/weed_info/detail.asp?WeedID=30 C.selloana

http://www.weedbusters.org.nz/weed_info/detail.asp?WeedID=29 C. jubata

PAMPAS GRASSCortaderia selloana

www.boprc.govt.nz

Description: Highly invasive erect aquatic grasswhich forms dense sprawling mats on lakemargins, slow flowing rivers and channels, andwetlands. Distinctive brown seed heads to 1.9mhigh in Feb..

Recommended control: Spray during summer.Dig out plants and dispose in landfill.

Status: Banned from propagation or sale in theWaikato region. Toxic to stock.

REED SWEET GRASSGlyceria maxima

58

Description: Fleshy- leaved vine with knobblyreproductive tubers along the stem and alsounderground.� Has strongly scented, creamycoloured drooping flower heads.� Smothers thevegetation it grows over.

Recommended control: Pull out all seedlingsand remove tubers on the ground.� Dispose oftubers at the Refuse Transfer Station.� Cut vinesso that plant material in trees cannot touch theground and treat stumps with suitable herbicide.�Overall spray vines growing along the ground.�Status: must be removed.

http://www.weedbusters.org.nz/weed_info/detail.asp?WeedID=71

MIGNONETTE VINE (aka Madeira vine)Anredera cordifolia

Bruce Clarkson

NIWA

MOTH (kapok) PLANTAraujia sericifera

Description: Woody climbing plant with toxicmilky sap. Stems covered in very fine hairs. Darkgreen oblong leaves. Small white flowers inclusters, Dec-May. Large choko-like green pods,with fluffy (kapok) seeds.

Recommended control: Cut the plant from thestems that are touching the ground, and treatthe cut stumps with herbicide. Remove any ripepods and burn or land fill.

Status: banned from sale, propagation anddistribution.

http://www.weedbusters.org.nz/weed_info/detail.asp?WeedID=95

Northland Regional CouncilEnvironment Waikato

Description: Fast growing shrub that forms thickstands, crowding out other plants.� Small leavesand overwhelming scent from creamy flowersover summertime.

Recommended control: Pull out seedlings.� Forlarger plants, or when seedlings are unable tobe pulled, cut and treat stumps with herbicide,or bore holes around trunk and apply herbicide,or overall spray.

Status: must be removed if requested byEnvironment Waikato’s plant pest contractors.

http://www.weedbusters.org.nz/weed_info/detail.asp?WeedID=86 Chinese Privet

CHINESE PRIVETLigustrum sinense

Carolyn Lewis

Bruce Clarkson

Description: Tree privet (L.lucidum) is anevergreen tree with glossy leaves, small whitefragrant flowers and blue/black berries. Thesmaller Chinese privet (L.sinense) has dull greenhairy leaves. Both are implicated in triggeringasthma and allergies.

Recommended control: Pull or dig out seedlingsand chainsaw large trees, painting stumps withherbicide. Bore Holes in trunks and applyherbicide, or overall spray.Status: must be removed if requested byEnvironment Waikato’s Plant pest Contractors

http://www.weedbusters.org.nz/weed_info/detail.asp?WeedID=90 Tree Privet

TREE PRIVETLigustrum lucidum

Bruce Clarkson

Northland Regional CouncilBruce Clarkson

Description: A ground cover with succulentstems, rooting readily at nodes on stems. Spreadsby regrowth of fragments, no seed set in NewZealand.

Recommended control: Whole plant is easilybroken and is best removed by rolling up matsof stems and burying or burning all plantmaterial. Stems can survive composting.Weedwipe or overall spray with herbicide. Followup needed.

Status: general nuisance weed in gullies.http://www.weedbusters.org.nz/weed_info/detail.asp?WeedID=105

Description: Invasive tree, that grows rapidlyand forms dense stands, preventing naturalregeneration. Large grey, furry, pungent smellingleaves.

Recommended control: Pull out seedlings whensoil is damp. Cut and treat stump with herbicide,or overall spray.

Status: must be removed.

http://www.weedbusters.org.nz/weed_info/detail.asp?WeedID=94

WANDERING JEWTradescantia fluminensis

WOOLLY NIGHTSHADE/TOBACCO WEED

Solanum mauritianum

Bruce Clarkson Northland Regional Council

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Notes

Remember. Every little bit of restored native bush helps bycreating stepping stones for birds and other wildlife to travelinto the City area.

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