Guide to Hydroponic Gardening

8/4/2019 Guide to Hydroponic Gardening

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Guide toHydroponic

Gardening

Table of Content:

Introduction To Hydroponics

Getting Started Hydroponic Gardening

Common Hydroponic Systems

Growing Hydroponic Mediums

Nutrient

Choosing a Nutrient Solution

Nutrient & pH

Microbiology

Nutrient Recipe

Horticulture Lighting

Plants & Carbon Dioxide

Starting Seeds & Cloning

Problems in the Garden

Alternative-Innovation.com

System Plans:

Ebb & Flow

Water Farm

Lettuce Raft

Bubble System

Aeroponic

Easy Cloner

Other Plans:

CO2 Generator

Nutrient Level Indicator

Air Lift Pump

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Introduction To Hydroponic Gardening

Hydroponic cultivation is the method of gardening without the use of soil. In place of soil an inert medium is used or the roots of a plant are suspended in air. Plants get their required nutrition and moisture in the form of highlyspecialized mineral formula which is delivered through several different methods. These methods have beendeveloped to create an oxygen rich environment for the plants root system, which is necessary for maximum nutrientabsorption.

Hydroponic gardening is not a new concept, dating back thousands of years, only recently have developments beenmade allowing easy access to the home cultivator. Highly specialized nutrient formulas are manufactured and readilyavailable. Pre- built systems can be purchased from specialty shops and on line and although they are costly due todemand, prices should drop due to increased interest and growing popularity. A homemade system can be built easilyfrom parts found at almost any hardware or department store

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Hydroponic cultivation offers precise control over all conditions needed for plants to develop beyond what is possiblein nature. This method of gardening delivers water and nutrient directly to the plant's root system. Because the plantdoes not need to develop a large root system searching out nutrient and water, the time and energy generally spenton such pursuits can then be put into vegetative and flowering growth. Also, plants can be grown much closer together since the root system does not need to grow as large as they normally would.

The pH can easily be monitored and altered to meet the exact specifications desirable for any plant. As you mayknow, this can play a vital role in the overall development and health of any plant. Although it can be very difficult tomeasure the pH of soil,it can be done in a matter of minutes with a nutrient solution and quickly adjusted if needed.

Nutrients can be easily mixed to create the exact amount of minerals needed for any plant and for any stage of it'sgrowth. This will ensure that plants receive just the right amount of food at all stages of development.

Combining hydroponics with indoor or greenhouse gardening, all aspects of the environment can be created andcontrolled to mimic any plant's natural environment, going beyond what is possible in nature. Without violent wind,rain and animals or insects plants cannot be easily damaged. Settings can be altered to duplicate seasonal conditionsthrough lighting and temperature, and in a controlled environment such as this plants can easily reach their fullgenetic potential.

Guide toHydroponic

Gardening



Getting Started Hydroponic Gardening:

There are hundreds of possibilities when it comes to building or buying a hydroponic system. Choosing to buy your system means you will have the advantage of engineered, proven and reliable design. Important factors will quicklynarrow down your options, such as how much room you have available, your budget and of course how much timeyou have to devote to building and operating your system. Automation is obviously an important factor. Lightingneeds to turn on and off at certain intervals in order to simulate nature. Timers need to turn off pumps and fans atcertain intervals and of course to conserve electricity. In some more advanced systems, humidity, temperature andCO2 are monitored and automatically adjusted. Humans aren't perfect and we do forget, but timers are inexpensiveand they do not forget. You can't be expected to be available at all times to tend to these things nor would you want totry.

How much space you have available is important. Although hydroponic gardening does offer the advantage of requiring less space than an average garden, plants still need room to grow. What type of plants you plan on growingis an important factor. Herbs, for example, require very little space while tomato crops require a lot of room althoughthey can be reasonably trimmed and reduced in size. If you plan on expanding your garden later, certain designelements can be built into your system for future growth.

In the end your budget will determine what type and size of garden you will produce. If time is worth more than moneyto you then you will probably be considering buying your system and everything you need. If, on the other hand, youare a do-it-yourself type of person who enjoys spending your spare time building something useful with your ownhands then building your system is right for you. This is also an inexpensive introduction for anyone interested ingetting started in hydroponic gardening. Lighting is expensive and unless you have access to a good source of sunlight such as a green house or sun room you will definitely want to invest in a High Intensity Discharge (HID) lightingsystem. Normal vertical windows don't work for indoor gardening. Although they do offer enough needed light for lowlight plants and for most house plants to just get by, an indoor garden without proper lighting will most likely notsucceed or produce the amazing results capable of a hydroponic garden coupled with a good HID lighting system.

Materials for a homemade system are, for the most part, pretty affordable. Most DIY systems consist of partsavailable at most hardware stores and home centers. You could actually build a basic system with material youprobably already have around your house. Pumps are usually the biggest investment in most DIY systems. Althoughrecently fountain water pumps prices have fallen and a good long lasting pump capable of producing the pressureneeded for large systems are now available for $20 or $30.

Hydroponic systems can be either active or passive. An active system uses a mechanical pump to deliver nutrient tothe plant's roots, and a passive system uses capillary action, absorption and gravity to deliver nutrient. A passivesystem, although not as effective, offers low operating costs and dependability because they do not need mechanicalpumps or electrical devices, such as timers, that commonly fail or wear out.

The basic wick system is an example of a passive system. Although unpopular, it is a very simple and inexpensiveway for beginners to gain skill. Most will choose a more advanced, active system.

Because I am providing instruction on producing your own working system, as the author, I do need to inform you of the inherent dangers in building a homemade system. An improperly built homemade system can be hazardous.Mixing electrolytes and electricity can be deadly causing fire and electrocution. Using unsafe parts such as non-foodgrade plastics and metal can leach harmful chemicals unfit for ingestion and, in some cases, inhalation. If improperlysealed a homemade system can leak several gallons of water causing damage to your home. These dangers arecompletely avoidable and rare. Just be cautious and don't do anything that you do not know how to do such asrewiring a water pump or installing an outdoor electrical outlet without a proper GFI switch.

There are many different types of hydroponic systems and new techniques are developed all the time. The mostcommonly used today for the home gardener are Wick, WaterFarms, Ebb & Flow, Dutch Bucket, and drip systems,Nutrient Flow Technique(NFT), Raft systems, Ein Gedi System (EGS), Aeroponics and recently micro sonic pulseemitters are gaining popularity.

Appliance Timers play an important role in hydroponic gardening.Lighting, pumps and fans can all be controlled making your gardenalmost completely automated. Digital timers, although moreexpensive can be programed with many more cycles and in 1 minuteincrements.



Common Hydroponic Systems

Wick systems , the most basic, is simply a system that uses a cotton rope as a wick with one end submerged in areservoir of nutrient solution, and the roots have access to nutrient through the wick.

WaterFarms are a popular, low cost system. These usually consist of a bucket as the main reservoir with a smaller pot suspended above used as the plant site. A common aquarium air pump is used to air lift the nutrient solution tothe top of the system where it is distributed evenly through a circular tubing with many holes. The nutrients then fallover the roots and back into the reservoir. This type of system is easy to build and operate. The constant aerationprovided by the air pump and through the constant movement insures more than adequate oxygen is supplied. Thedrawback of this system is that there is often only room for one plant, although one air pump can run several systems.

Another drawback is noise. These things are loud! Not good for a lot of reasons. Especially for those who enjoyprivacy and need to avoid unwanted attention.

Ebb and Flo or Flood and Drain systems consist of a reservoir and another shallower type of reservoir called agrowing bed. The nutrient solution is pumped into the growing bed until it fills to the desired level, then an overflowsystem keeps the bed from overflowing. This also has the added effect of increasing aeration by allowing the nutrientto fall back into the reservoir. Once the system timer shuts down the pump, the entire nutrient solution drains backinto the reservoir. This system works so well because as the nutrient solution fills the bed, old air is forced out of thegrowing medium, and when the bed is drained this action draws fresh oxygen back into the medium. The major drawback of this type of system is the possibility of timer or pump failure. Since the plant's roots must receiveconstant moisture, if one or both were to fail, your garden would suffer within a few hours, and more than likely becompletely destroyed within a day. If a small level of nutrient solution is allowed to remain in the bottom of the growingbed, say an inch or so at all times, this could easily prevent the problem. Another possible problem is overflow. This is

a problem that can only be solved by always maintaining a clear overflow system. If the system were to becomeclogged with debris or roots this would, of course, result in overflowing of all the nutrient solution above what the bedcan hold.

Nutrient Film Technique(NFT) consists of a large enclosed channel, commonly a 4” or larger PVC pipe, where theplant sites are situated above the channel and the roots are suspended within, and receive nutrient from, a constantshallow flow along the bottom of the channel. The nutrient is pumped to the channel where gravity is used to send thesolution through the channel, kind of like gutters on your house, where it is then drained back to the reservoir. Themain problem with this system, as with many others, is that as the roots grow they can slow nutrient distribution.

The Raft System is, basically, a Styrofoam flat with several plant sites that floats on top of the nutrient solution. Rootsreceive oxygen that is pumped into the nutrient solution with an aquarium pump and aeration stone. This system isonly suitable for short stature plants such as lettuce. It is really reliable and the only problem is that the aeration stone

will usually clog quickly and reduce aeration. The only way to fix this problem is constant cleaning and changing of thestone. Some have suggested using a piece of air tubing with lots of small holes but I have found that no matter howsmall the holes and no matter the number of holes, you can never produce the air diffusion an air stone is capable of producing.

The Ein Gedi System is one of the most popular systems in use today by home gardeners. This systems is sopopular that even the homemade type systems are being sold in shops and online. They look cool and are a little bitmore difficult and expensive to build, but well worth the effort if you want a nice looking, high performance, easy touse system. The Ein Gedi consists of an enclosed chamber in which the plant basket sits in a shallow pool of nutrientsolution. The baskets are heavily misted individually and the nutrient collects at the bottom until it reaches theoverflow level and is drained back into the reservoir. This system always supplies a lot of oxygen and nutrient solutionto the roots, and is pretty reliable, failing only if the pump or plumbing system fails.

Aeroponic systems are an excellent and affordable option, and are easy to build and operate. In Aeroponics theroots are suspended and are constantly sprayed with a fine mist of nutrient solution which then drained or drops backinto the reservoir. This system offers the highest amount of oxygen to the root system. One problem with this systemis that spray heads can become clogged by mineral buildup and cause pump failure.

The Dutch Bucket System is, basically, a pot or bucket fitted with a drain that allows a shallow pool of nutrientsolution to stay in the bottom. The solution is fed through drip emitters from the top. Any kind of growing media can beused in this system. This is a very, basic and fail safe irrigation type system which incorporates a recycling system for minimizing nutrient waste.

Fogger systems are pretty new and gaining a lot of popularity. In this type of system a fog of nutrient solution iscreated by transducers. These are commonly found in use in newer humidifiers. The roots are suspended and fednutrient and moisture through the fog. This type of system can produce incredibly healthy roots. Not only is it a cool

new technique, this may very well be the best available system as far as root development goes.



Hydroponic Growing Medium

The growing medium for hydroponic cultivation should be inert and should not affect the chemical composition of thenutrient solution. A good hydroponic medium should hold an equal ratio of water and oxygen. Sand and gravel do notmake good growing media although course gravel can be used as long as the system constantly circulates nutrient.Some common and readily available hydroponic mediums include:

Coconut Fiber:A new concept gaining popularity. It holds the perfect amount of water and air. Coconut fiber is a renewable resourcewhich would otherwise go to waste as a food byproduct. It contains natural hormones needed for germination and cut-rooting and is naturally resistant to fungus and biodegradable.

LECA:An acronym for Lightweight Expanded Clay Aggregate; LECA is made with expanded clay which is porous and andholds the perfect amount of water and air. LECA is pH neutral and will not alter your nutrient solution in any way. It isreusable and easily sanitized. Always rinse new LECA before use to remove any dust particles.

Rockwool:Commonly used and the most widely available hydroponic medium. The main advantages are that it is reusable andcan be completely sterilized. Rockwool can be used for starting seeds and rooting cuttings which are easilytransplanted. A dust mask should always be used when handling rockwool.

Pea Gravel:Can be used but is not recommended. It is only suitable for systems that constantly circulate nutrient like thewaterfarm. It is heavy and non porous.

There are many of options when choosing a growing medium, and new ones are always being introduced. Animportant thing to remember when choosing your medium is to use proven ones. Using an untested or unreliablemedium can change your nutrient pH, introducing harmful chemicals which will then be absorbed into the plant andeventually into your body if consumed. Some loose mediums can clog pumps and spray heads, reducing flow anddecreasing the life of your pump.

All media needs to be rinsed and sanitized before use. Rinsing new media before use is necessary to remove any

small particles. Sanitizing media can be difficult but it is necessary because using unsanitary media can introducefungus and bacteria to your system that can easily propagate. Steam is the safest method for sanitation. Using apressure cooker is a good option for the home gardener and will completely sterilize the media, killing all fungus andbacteria. Heating the medium in your oven is another way to pasteurize your media. Soaking the media in a mixture of 1 teaspoon of household bleach per gallon of cool water for 30 minutes can also effectively sanitize your media.Make sure to flush well with hot water.

Coconut Fiber LECA RockwoolPea Gravel



NutrientThe main reason hydroponic gardening is so successful in outperforming all other cultivation methods is due in part tothe fact that all of the needed nutrients for plants to thrive are always present in the correct amount. These nutrientsor salts are all vital to all plant life, and depletion or exclusion of any one would result in death of the plant.

Macro Nutrients are the most commonly known nutrient.You may already be familiar with the N-P-K rating printed on most fertilizer packaging.

Nitrogen is an essential component of all proteins. Nitrogen deficiency most often results in stunted growth.

Phosphorus is important in plant bioenergetics. As a component of ATP, phosphorus is needed for the conversion of light energy to chemical energy (ATP) during photosynthesis. Phosphorus can also be used to modify the activity of various enzymes by phosphorylation, and can be used for cell signaling. Since ATP can be used for the biosynthesisof many plant biomolecules, phosphorus is important for plant growth and flower/seed formation.

Potassium regulates the opening and closing of the stoma by a potassium ion pump. Since stomata are important inwater regulation, potassium reduces water loss from the leaves and increases drought tolerance. Potassiumdeficiency may cause necrosis or interveinal chlorosis.

Micro Nutrients are minerals absorbed in small to minute amounts.

Sulfur is a structural component of some amino acids and vitamins, and is essential in the manufacturing of chloroplasts.

Calcium regulates transport of other nutrients into the plant and is also involved in the activation of certain plantenzymes. Calcium deficiency results in stunting.

Magnesium is an important part of chlorophyll, a critical plant pigment important in photosynthesis. It is important inthe production of ATP through its role as an enzyme cofactor. There are many other biological roles for magnesium--see Magnesium in biological systems for more information. Magnesium deficiency can result in interveinal chlorosis.

Iron is necessary for photosynthesis and is present as an enzyme cofactor in plants. Iron deficiency can result ininterveinal chlorosis and necrosis.

Molybdenum is a cofactor to enzymes important in building amino acids.

Boron is important in sugar transport, cell division, and synthesizing certain enzymes. Boron deficiency causesnecrosis in young leaves and stunting.

Copper is important for photosynthesis. Symptoms of copper deficiency include chlorosis.

Manganese is necessary for building the chloroplasts. Manganese deficiency may result in coloration abnormalities,such as discolored spots on the foliage.

Zinc is required in a large number of enzymes and plays an essential role in DNA transcription. A typical symptom of zinc deficiency is the stunted growth of leaves, commonly known as "little leaf" and is caused by the oxidativedegradation of the growth hormone auxin.

Nickel, in higher plants, is essential for activation of urease, an enzyme involved with nitrogen metabolism that isrequired to process urea. Without Nickel, toxic levels of urea accumulate, leading to the formation of necrotic lesions.In lower plants, Nickel activates several enzymes involved in a variety of processes, and can substitute for Zinc andIron as a cofactor in some enzymes.

Cobalt has proven to be beneficial to at least some plants, but is essential in others, such as legumes where it isrequired for nitrogen fixation.



Choosing a Hydroponic NutrientReady made concentrated Hydroponic formula is available at specialty stores, on line retailers and recently mostnurseries are stocking a wide selection. There are so many different solutions currently being produced that walkinginto a shop can be a bit intimidating. While it is true that there are a lot of different types & brands, your main concernfor now is selecting a quality, proven and reliable formula. Research what you will need as much as possible andchoose the most suitable, high quality, well known formula for your application before going to purchase from a retailstore. While most employees at any given shop are knowledgeable, helpful and looking out for your best interest, Ihave met a few that have no idea what they are talking about, or are trying to either push an inferior product or sellyou “the best” which is usually the most expensive. Your best bet is to find what you need beforehand and ask for it.Ignore everything else, and buy what you came for. Have you noticed the repeating keyword yet? “High quality” it doesmake a big difference.

The best choice and investment for beginners is to start with a three part system.

I highly recommend the General Hydroponics three part system Flora series for a high quality tested and provenformula. General Hydroponics has been around for a long time and are the most commonly used worldwide. GeneralHydroponics has recently added more variety to their selection, including FloraNova and they also produce bulk drynutrient mixes.

Three part systems offer the advantage of being able to custom blend your solution for various crops and growthstages. The labeling on the package will include the standard N-P-K rating, representing the percentages of Nitrogen,Phosphorus and Potassium. Also, look for a guaranteed analysis. Mixing a three part system is pretty easy anddirections should be provided. Always shake well before using. Most systems must be mixed in a special order andshould never be mixed together without first diluting. This can cause nutrient lockout, making some mineralsunavailable.

Always use a nutrient solution that is made for hydroponics. Standard fertilizers like Miracle Grow are notmanufactured with the necessary minerals because they are made for use with soil, which already contains mostmicro nutrient.

Measuring nutrient concentration is done by testing electrical conductivity of a solution in parts per million (ppm) or total dissolved solids (TDS). Pure distilled water contains no conductive mineral salts (electrolytes). Most municipaltap water can read anywhere from 120-400 TDS. Anything above 500 is considered unfit for consumption. Just for funyou should measure yours, you may never want to use it again though. Pretty much all municipal tap water is unfit for any use other than washing in my opinion, but that's another story for another day.





Microbiology

Although it is a rather lengthy subject, I should mention a bit about water microbiology. In any given natural body of water a very complex ecosystem of bacteria and fungi play a vital role in the overall success and health of thecomplete system. This can be confusing to anyone who has never studied the subject. A very simple example of anunbalanced system would be any stagnant, over heated and under-oxygenated body of water. In an unbalancedsystem anaerobic bacteria, considered "bad bacteria", are abundant and because anaerobic bacteria require little or no oxygen they have no competition from aerobic bacteria (good bacteria) which require lots of oxygen. In anunbalanced system pH is never at a constant or desirable level due to waste byproducts of anaerobic bacteria that, bynature, cause very unstable pH levels. In a healthy system all of the components are balanced, oxygen is plentiful,temperature is kept at a reasonable level never exceeding levels required to support life, and nutrients are available inthe right amount. In a healthy, balanced system aerobic bacteria out-compete anaerobic bacteria, keeping them in

check. In your hydroponic system, which is, by nature, a bad combination of everything needed for bacteria andfungus to proliferate, you have to consider having no bacteria as an impossibility. A completely sterile environmentwould be perfect, but in reality this simply will never happen.

Adding an extra supply of oxygen to any hydroponic system nutrient solution is never a bad idea except for the extraelectricity use and possible added noise. A small aquarium air pump and aeration stone can easily be incorporatedinto almost any reservoir. Another consideration is to add an extra growing media to your system. While all surfacesof your system, over time, will be covered with all sorts of bacteria, having extra space for them is never a bad thing.This can be anything from a layer of small rocks at the bottom to a net bag of perlite. An added bonus being that youwill always have a supply of beneficial bacteria that can be used as a “starter culture” to be added to new systemswhich will greatly reduce the time it will take for a new system to naturally develop its own system of beneficialbacteria.

Homemade Nutrient

Can you make your own nutrient solution from scratch? Of course. It is not an easy process, but if you can find anaffordable, reliable source of the fresh salts needed, you can definitely make your own nutrient formula and save a lotof cash in doing so. Mixing your own nutrient solution requires a basic understanding of chemistry and the knowledgethat some necessary chemicals contain active components of low explosives such as those in dynamite, fireworksand rocket propellant, qualifying them as hazardous material. Some of the chemicals require special permission toobtain, and most of are highly flammable. Most of the chemicals are various forms of salt peter, and some of the saltsneeded are as common as Epsom salt (Magnesium Sulfate). Make no mistake, mishandled or used improperly thesechemicals are very dangerous. They can cause chemical burns, are dangerous to inhale and if ingested can causeblindness and/ or death. Always wear proper personal protective equipment when handling these chemicals, includingbut not limited to: goggles, chemical resistant gloves, and a proper respirator. If used properly they aren't really thatdangerous, but I don't want to get involved in any lawsuit, so use at your own risk.

You'll need:Dry and liquid measuring containers. A mixing device, such as a stir plate would be ideal although not necessary, aspoon or electric mixer will do. An electric current or TDS/PPM meter to insure proper levels in stock solution.

The salts should be dissolved in warm water separately and then added to the solution tank. Reagent or chemicalgrade potassium phosphate and magnesium sulfate are recommended. Fertilizer grade potassium nitrate andcalcium nitrate may be used and are less expensive than the chemically pure forms.

Because amounts of trace elements used is so small, measuring and mixing these tiny amounts is difficult withoutproper laboratory measuring and distribution equipment. Stock solutions of diluted micronutrients should be made upand added to the solution tank. Use only reagent grade chemicals, which are usually available in hobby shops.



Macro Nutrients:Amount for 25 gallons of solutionPotassium phosphate - mono basic (KH2PO4)½ ounce or 1 teaspoonPotassium nitrate (KNO3)2 ounces or 4 teaspoons of powdered saltCalcium nitrate (CaNO3)3 ounces or 7 teaspoonsMagnesium sulfate (MgSO4)1 ½ ounces or 4 teaspoons

Mix the following chemicals with one gallon of water in a clean container:Chemical Stock Solution 1 US GalBoric Acid(H3BO3) 2 teaspoonsManganese chloride(MnCl2 . 4H2O) 1 teaspoonsZinc sulfate(ZnSO4 . 7H2O) 2 teaspoonsCopper sulfate(CuSO4 . 5H2O) 1 teaspoonsIron sulfate(FeSO4 . 7H2O) 4 teaspoons

Add the following amount of Stock Solution to 25 US Gal of Nutrient solution:

Chemical 25 US Gal Nutrient SolutionBoric Acid(H3BO3) ½ pintManganese chloride(MnCl2 . 4H2O) ½ pintZinc sulfate(ZnSO4 . 7H2O) ½ teaspoonCopper sulfate

(CuSO4 . 5H2O) ½ teaspoonIron sulfate(FeSO4 . 7H2O) ½ pint

If tap water is used, zinc sulfate and copper sulfate may not be required. The small amounts of zinc and sulfur neededare usually present in the water or as an impurity in the other fertilizer nutrients.

An iron chelate should be substituted for the iron sulfate if your tap water is alkaline. Mix 1 ½ ounces of NaFe EDTA(13 percent Fe203) in 5 quarts of water. Use ¼ pint of this solution for 25 gallons of stock solution. For other chelateproducts calculate the amount required to result in a final nutrient solution containing 1 part per million of elementaliron.



Horticulture Lighting

Many cultivators wish to grow their plants indoors in the privacy of their own home. Growing plants indoors can bedifficult due to limited access to enough sunlight. Many advances have been made in horticulture lighting recentlymaking indoor gardening possible year round. It is now possible to so closely duplicate the natural light energyrequired by plants that an entire crop can be produced without ever actually seeing natural sunlight.

Advanced cultivators can actually mimic natural sunlight and seasons using artificial lighting. Have you ever wondered how garden centers and flower shops always have out of season blooms and beautiful orchids in mid-winter? Most flowering plants have three main stages: seedling, vegetative and flowering/fruiting. The last stage isinitiated by changes in the season including temperature, light intensity, spectrum and duration.

Light intensity is usually measured in watt per square foot. 20-50 watts per square foot is optimal. Lights should be

suspended above your plants on an adjustable stand. Heat from your lights can damage your crop so keeping themat a safe distance is important. The higher the power, the further your light should be from your plants unless using alight mover which limits exposure allowing your plants to cool. The optimum distance from your light source to your plant should be: 12-14” for a 250 watt bulb, 16-24” for a 400 watt bulb and 2' minimum for a 1000 watt system.

A simple inexpensive timer can be used to automate your lighting system. It is a valuable low cost investment that willbe necessary for creating proper light cycles.

A light meter can be a valuable tool for insuring an evenly and properly lit area.

Your growing area should be finished with a semi-flat white paint or highly reflective mylar sheeting. Aluminum foil canbe used although it is actually less reflective than flat white paint. If the surface is unpaintable for some reason and/ or of a dark color, aluminum foil is a cheap alternative and would be well worth the effort.

Lighting duration should be 16-18 hours per day. Anything more than 18 hours is pointless. For force flowering, plantsshould be exposed to 12-14 hours of light a day. Complete darkness is required for flowers and fruits to form correctly.This can be maintained by simply timing your lights to shut down at night and power up during the day.

High Intensity Discharge (HID) lighting is the most efficient form of horticulture lighting. For electricity consumed, HIDlighting emits the most amount of needed photosynthetically active radiation per watts used. High Pressure Sodiumand Metal Halide are the two main types of HID lighting. Metal Halide emits primarily blue light spectrum necessaryfor vegetative growth. High Pressure Sodium emits mostly red light required for flowering. If you are only growing leafyvegetation a Metal Halide system would be required, and if you plan on growing flowering, budding or fruiting plantsyou can either purchase both a HPS and MH system to use in combination or a Son Agro or Hortilux brand HPS bulbwhich emits 30% more blue light than a standard HPS bulb.

I have been experimenting with outdoor HID lighting units, purchased from Home Depot, as a lower cost supply for HID lighting. Although most of the units they sell are actually more expensive, I did find a 50 watt HPS unit for $20 onsale which I now use for additional red light. Other sources for affordable lighting are non-profit donation based homebuilding centers, like Habitat for Humanity. I've found HPS bulbs and outdoor lighting units at flea markets as well.I've also seen outdoor HID lighting systems at auctions, and in case you wanted to know, a lot of outdoor commerciallighting and street lighting is HID lighting.

Compact florescent lighting is kind of a touchy subject when it comes to indoor horticulture lighting. Althoughincredibly efficient, they do not produce enough photosynthetically active radiation to achieve the desired results.

All lighting units need to be vented to keep your growing area at the proper temperature. Most units come with built inventilation in which a fan can be used with 4” LAMA Flexible tubing, commonly used for venting clothes dryingmachines.



Plants & Carbon Dioxide

Everyone is aware of the important role plants and algae play in our ecosystem. Plants make it possible for life toexist on earth. Plants are in fact the givers of life. All life on earth depends on plants and algae, not only for food andshelter, but most importantly for oxygen. Whether life on earth may have adapted and evolved in a completelydifferent direction without plants is unknown, and will probably never be known unless the day comes when plant lifecan no longer be supported on earth. In that case it is more than likely there will no longer be human life available tostudy and document any further development. It is an important fact, you and all life on earth only exist becauseplants and algae exist.

Put simply, plants “breathe” CO2 and produce oxygen in the process of photosynthesis. All plants require CO2, someplants, one popular ancient plant, a plant that is now unreasonably illegal is a CO2 consuming machine. If this plantwere put back into agricultural use it could possibly counter all man made CO2 and end all forest destruction. Thisplant is so efficient, a few acres of it can replace an entire forest of trees, but we've chosen synthetic over natural andforest products over the possible alternative of using this “vile weed”.

In most gardens a CO2 level of 1000-1600 PPM is ideal. This can increase growth production up to 40% if doneproperly. Things get a little more complicated in enclosed systems. In nature everything is pretty well balanced, but inan enclosed system you are left to control and monitor everything. In small enclosed spaces things happen quickly.This is especially true when living matter, such as plants, are incorporated. You would not be comfortable in anenclosed space without a supply of fresh air, your plants should be considered the same. Without a fresh supply of air they will quickly use up all available CO2 and become stressed. Your greenhouse or indoor garden should becompletely replenished with fresh air every hour. This can easily be accomplished with a fan timed to switch on everyhour for as long as it would take to exchange all of the air. To determine what size fan is needed to accomplish this ina reasonable amount of time, you must calculate the cubic area of your garden by measuring the area and multiplyingthe length, width and height in feet. If your growing area is 10'x10'x10' you would have 1,000 cubic feet. In order tocompletely cycle the air in a small amount of time you would need a fan capable of moving 100 CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute) set to power on for 10 minutes every hour. Keep in mind that in order for fresh air to come in old air must bereleased through an exhaust port on the opposite side of your garden. If your garden is in a small area such as acloset or grow box nothing larger than a small computer fan is needed, provided it is capable of moving the proper cubic feet of air per minute.

While simply having an exhaust system built into your garden will provide enough CO2 for plants to survive,introducing CO2 through other methods can almost double plant production. Introducing CO2 to your indoor gardenor greenhouse is pretty simple and well worth the effort, and there are several ways to do it. One popular method ispurchasing compressed CO2 in a tank, although purchasing large amounts can draw unwanted attention. Most shopshave an exchange system where you borrow the expensive tank full of gas, leaving a deposit for the tank and payinga surcharge for the CO2 gas. When the tank is empty you simply exchange it for a full tank once again paying for onlythe gas. The reason some shops do this is to be able to offer CO2 without the heavy cost of having a distributing

system and the inherent danger that comes with the distribution of compressed gas.

If you choose to use a compressed CO2 system to supply CO2 to your garden, you will also need a way of distributingthe CO2 throughout your garden. This will consist of a CO2 tank and a regulator. The least expensive regulator simplyreleases a small flow of gas constantly. More expensive systems incorporate a solenoid that automatically opens andcloses the gas supply. This can be accomplished with the use of an electric timer. More advanced systems use adevice that monitors CO2 levels and adjusts them by either opening or closing the flow of gas, similar to a thermostatthat monitors and adjusts the temperature in your home. A small electric fan can be used to evenly distribute CO2throughout your enclosed garden.



Another way of introducing CO2 to your garden is the use of a homemade yeast CO2 generator. A lot of people arenow using alcohol fermentation to their advantage. Alcohol fermentation is pretty complex, but all you need to know isthat as yeast consume sugars, CO2 and alcohol are among the many waste products produced. Although on a largescale this method would be way to expensive, it's use in a small enclosed area like a closet or grow box should not beoverlooked. Building a yeast CO2 generator is pretty easy, and a good method is to simply mix half a gallon of warmwater with a packet of bread yeast and a pound of sugar in a one gallon milk jug. Drill a hole in the lid and connect alength of aquarium tubing that can be placed behind a fan that will distribute the CO2 throughout your garden. Thiswill generate CO2 for about a week. The yeast can actually be reused a few times. Just pour out the liquid leavingbehind the yeast cake on the bottom, and mix in more sugar and warm water. Fermentation does produce allot of foam that can easily travel through the tubing, and if you are worried about this an overflow reservoir can easily beadded.

An often overlooked source of CO2 is humans. although not very efficient, you produce CO2 every time you breath.Have you heard the old wifes' tale that talking to your plants is beneficial? It's true! Every time you talk you releaseCO2. So, if you haven't considered putting your CO2 waste to good use then perhaps you should. Although we can'tlive in our greenhouse or garden, just by working or sitting for an hour or so will introduce a lot of valuable CO2.



Starting Seeds & Cloning

Starting seeds for later use in a hydroponic system is a little different than starting seeds for a soil garden. Seedlingmust be grown in a proper hydroponic medium which can easily be transplanted into your system when they reach theright size. Rockwool cubes, coconut coir and perfect starts are all good medium choices for starting seeds. You wantthe media to be as clean as possible because the environment needed for seed development is also a perfectenvironment for bacteria and fungus. Seedlings need a lot of moisture and a warm environment. This can beaccomplished by using a clear plastic dome, such as a Tupperware container, to cover your seeds. You may need touse an electric heating pad or other method to keep the seeds at a consistent temperature of about 72º- 80ºF. Seedsshould be planted at the same depth as they would be in soil. This should be in the directions of the printed package.If unsure, a method I use is to plant the seed at a depth of 2 times the size of the seed, I.E. if the seed is about ¼” insize I would plant the seed about a ½” deep. Use a quarter strength mixture of nutrient solution with a 6.0 pH tomoisten the starter media. You will want to use soft lighting until most seeds sprout and eventually increase the light tonormal levels. Experts say that seeds do not need light to sprout due to the fact that they are using their own food atthis point. This is up to you. I always provide light, it may seem pointless but I just consider it natural. Continuefeeding plants with a ¼ strength nutrient solution after sprouting. As always, you will want to remove any seedlingsthat are showing signs of weakness. Once plants develop a second set of true leaves they are ready to be hardenedoff.

A method I use to start seeds is a bit more complicated, but has been very successful in producing plants that canvery easily be introduced into a hydroponic system. I build a type of mini aeroponic system out of a small tub. I cutsmall rockwool cubes from a slab to form a 2x2 square. This is squeezed into a square hole which I've cut into thelid. I build a small air lift pump from a length of ½” tubing which I jam into the center of the rockwool to keep it in place.I can keep the seedlings in the starter system until they reach roughly a foot tall and are ready to transplant into anyhydroponic system.



Cloning plants is a method used to produce several plants from one “donor plant”. This method has been in use for hundreds of years and is relatively easy. Cloning a plant produces an exact, genetically identical copy of the mother plant. Because the natural method of reproduction is bypassed, no genetic alterations are made. This is one of themethods used to reproduce hybridized plants since most cannot reliably reproduce naturally. In order for cloning to besuccessful, certain conditions must be met. A sterile environment is of course important. Humidity must be very high,90-100%, and the temperature must be maintained at about 80ºF. Low indirect lighting must be supplied. A 20 wattflorescent fixture would be a good option. A rooting hormone or cloning gel should be used in most cases. Cuttingsshould only be taken from new growth of a healthy plant. They should be of the first 3-5” of a healthy growing tip withno more than two or three sets of leaves.

There are many methods for taking cuttings, this is the method I typically use. You may find it necessary to researchcloning methods that will work best for your particular situation. First, clean your work area and sanitize all surfaceswith a diluted bleach/water spray. Either use sterile surgical gloves or a good hand sanitizer to clean your hands.Have a warm bowl of water, sterilized growing medium, and your hormone powder or cloning gel ready. If you areusing cloning gel or hormone powder be sure to follow the manufacturers directions so you do not ruin your entiresupply. You will also want to mix a gallon of ¼ strength nutrient solution.

Using a sterile blade cut the selected tip and immediately place the end of the cutting in a bowl of lukewarm water.While the cutting is submerged make a 45º angled cut above the original cut. Carefully remove the lowest set of leaves from your cutting, this is where the new roots will form. Dip the cut end into your rooting hormone or cover theend with cloning gel and then insert the cutting into your starter medium up to the bottom nodes. Moisten well andcover the cuttings with a large clear plastic dome to maintain constant humidity at 90%-100%. Feed your cuttings with

a ¼ strength nutrient solution and keep under low indirect light. Cuttings should develop roots in 7-21 days, and arethen ready for transplant.

Transplanting your seedlings and cuttings into your hydroponic system is stressful to your plant no matter what thecircumstances are. Newly developed roots are very delicate as well as the entire plant structure. Minimizing stress isan important aspect of transplanting. Plants should always be hardened and acclimated to their new environment.This is especially true if transplanting outdoors. Hardening off is a method of slowly introducing young plants tointense lighting, lower humidity, fluctuating temperatures and wind. Plants that will be grown indoors do not have toundergo a very harsh transition although they will be subject to the intense light produced by HID and an entirelydifferent environment. For plants being transplanted outdoors you can start the process by placing your plants outsidein indirect sunlight with low wind for a couple hours a day for 2-4 days. If your plants will be grown indoors, you canstart by introducing your plants to a higher level of lighting by placing your HID lighting two feet higher than normaland slowly decreasing the distance over a few days.

After your plants have been hardened off, they are ready to be transplanted into your hydroponic system. The processconsists of carefully placing them into the grow site or net basket and gently filling any empty area with more growingmedium. If you are using a system with a growing bed made of LECA or something similar, a good method is to use acoffee can with both sides removed to push into the rock bed. You can then remove the medium from inside the canto the desired depth, place your plant into it, and then back fill. It's important to make sure that your plants arereceiving enough moisture during the first few days.

Almost any soil grown plant can be put into a hydroponic system as long as it is a mature plant that is healthy enoughto undergo transplantation. Because all of the soil from the entire root ball must be removed, the plant must be hardyand able to withstand the process which should be considered quite a violent process. To minimize the damage, firstsoak the root ball in lukewarm water for ½ an hour and gently shake while submerged to remove the bulk of the soil.Next use warm water to gently spray off any remaining soil, and then trim any dead or decaying roots.



Fungus, Bacteria and Algae

There are many things that can go wrong in your hydroponic garden. Though the reward far outweigh the risk, morepotential problems exist within a hydroponic garden than in a soil garden. There is one main aspect of hydroponicgardening I have tried to stress throughout this entire guide, prevention! If you take preventive steps such assanitation and cleanliness, proper aeration and adequate ventilation, many possible problems will be prevented.Keeping a healthy environment free of conditions in which harmful bacteria, fungi and disease and in turn possibleinsect infestations thrive is your best defense.

Cleanliness of your system, media and grow area are very important. Avoid using areas with carpeted floors if possible. Keep walls, ceilings and floors clean and any surface or tool used while physically working with the plantshould be sanitized with a 10% bleach solution. Remove all debris such as fallen leaves and always remove dead anddying or sick plants immediately. Keeping the humidity at the appropriate level (between 60-80%) and keeping goodair flow is vital. (see CO2 for more info) An enclosed grow room or green house should have all of the air replaced or “cycled” every hour with fresh air.

Bacteria and fungi spores are present in the air around us at all times, once they arrive at an area which meets their needs for growth and reproduction they go to work. By doing your part to eliminate or minimize these conditions youcan prevent most from taking hold and spreading.

Algae in the reservoir and on roots is usually harmless unless excessive. Keeping the reservoir void of light, at lowtemperature and well oxygenated will keep algae at manageable levels. Flushing your system with a 10% bleachsolution before adding plants will help prevent excessive algae as well. A method I have used is to keep a few livesnails in the reservoir. Although, some snails are known for eating plant roots and some snails reproduce rapidlyresearch the specie of snail before adding any. If you do choose to use this method it can add a significant amount of waste nutrient from the digestive process.

Seedlings and clones are most vulnerable to fungal and bacterial problems. They require higher temperature andmoisture, these conditions are the perfect environment for fungus and bacteria as well. Sterilization of the media isnecessary. A pressure cooker is the safest chemical free method used to completely sterilize the media. Other methods such as boiling for 15 minutes, heating in a conventional oven or microwave oven may be used. A 30 minutesoak in a 10% bleach solution followed by a through rinsing with hot water can be used in some cases but is notrecommended. Try to keep the starting media from being over saturated as well as any other media.

Over watering can be a confusing term to new gardeners, in soil gardening the term is used to describe soil that is notdraining and the roots become oxygen deprived. In hydroponic gardening over watering is applied to over saturationof the media, although not as detrimental as long as adequate oxygen levels are maintained, over saturated mediacan be problematic. As a general rule the media should never be sopping wet. If you were to pick up a hand full andsqueeze it no more than a few drops of solution should come out.

Chances are you are reading this section because you already have a fungal or bacterial infection. If this is the casefirst try to investigate and resolve the problem by fixing the environment in which you keep your plants. Visible fungusand bacteria can be wiped off with a soft cloth. A weak solution of vinegar and water can be directly applied to thearea or a commercial fungicide may be used as directed if needed.

Problems in the Garden



InsectsMost insect infestations can be avoided by keeping healthy plants free of bacteria and fungus. In many cases insectswill not appear unless you have a sick plants. Prevention is key but mysterious conditions will arise in which there isno direct visible cause.A lot of insects are actually feeding on the micro organisms of the decomposition process of a dead or dying plantmatter rather than the plant itself. Some feed on roots and others the leaves and stem. Keeping your plants healthyand free of fungal infections will in turn help keep most insects away. Most important, keep outdoor plants outdoors!Bringing plants that have been outdoors for any amount of time almost always insures that you will be bringing insector larvae inside that will thrive without any natural predators or natural pest control that exists outdoors. There are veryfew safe chemical insecticides that can be employed to control insect infestations. In my opinion, any toxic chemicalsused to control insects applied directly onto the plant should be avoided at all cost, especially if the end crop is to beconsumed in any way. If possible use safe non-toxic insecticides or introduce natural predators such as Lady Bugs or Praying Mantis is possible. There are many environmentally friendly pest control methods available to homegardeners than ever before and commercial petroleum oil based chemicals should be avoided. After all, if you aretaking the time to grow your own crop that will eventually end up in your own body, why would you want to ingestdangerous and toxic chemicals?

There are many chemical solutions to many garden problems. Choosing a healthy solution is advisable if you plan onconsuming your plants in any way. Organic solutions, although not as powerful and fast acting are generally a bitmore expensive, but worth the money and extra efforts. Some home remedies, work well and are very cost effective,the trade off, is usually more time needed and no absolute guarantee of success. Here are a few of my favorite homeremedies

Homemade insecticideAffective against aphids, spider mites, and whiteflies.In a clean spray bottle filled with water add a few drops of mild dish soap. Apply moderately every couple of days.

Garlic Oil SprayAffective against aphids, spider mites, and whiteflies12 cloves of minced garlic2 tsp. mineral oil1 qt water A couple drops of liquid dish soapSoak garlic in mineral oil for 24 hours. Strain garlic out and add 600 ml water and 1 tsp. liquid dish soap. Mixthoroughly. Spray plants with this solution once and wait a few days, if there are no signs of improvement apply again.

Fungicide for Mildew and Black Spot1 tsp. baking soda1 qt water A couple drops of liquid dish soapDissolve baking soda in 1 qt of warm water.

Add soap flakes to help solution cling to leaves. Remove infected leaves from plant, then spray top and bottom of remaining leaf surfaces to control spread of the disease.

Sticky TrapsAn affective alternative for controlling winged insects.1-2 Tbsp. Vaseline or preferably, Unpetroleum Jelly4”x8” plastic cards or cardboardWaterproof yellow paintApply paint onto both sides of the card and let it dry. Once the paint is dry, applyUnpetroleum Jelly liberally over both sides of the card. Place the card just above the plant canopy.Pests controlled: Flying pests, such as fungus gnats, and whiteflies.



How to build an Ebb and Flo Hydroponic System

An Ebb and Flo/ Flood and Drain System is little more advanced than the other systemplans. Although it is a bit more difficult for beginners, it is a tried and true system and alot more interesting than the previous system build. The flood and Drain technique is aclassic, proven system that provides excellent result and high crop yields. The floodand drain technique works so well because as the plant sites are filled, old oxygen is“exhaled” or push out and when the plant sites drain fresh air is sucked back into thegrowing media. This particular design is not quite typical, as most flood and drainsystems use a single growing bed filled with media, with this design individual plantsites are plumbed together and detachable for easy access and cleaning. An over flowU pipe is used to keep the nutrient from over flowing.

Building the system can be done in a couple of hours and most parts are available athardware stores. The plant sites can be any water tight rigid container, some peopleeven use 2-liter soda bottles. The pump should be rated at 200 GPH or more and youwill need a pump that can accept 1/2” ID tubing. I once again recommend the Eco Plusline of pumps because they are affordable and come with the necessary attachments.The arrangement and number of plant sites is up to you and only limited to the pumpcapabilities and your imagination.

























Operating your system

Fill the nutrient reservoir and use a timer to power on for 10 minutes every 15-20minutes. Add plants and watch them grow. You will want to watch for over grown rootsthat can clog the plumbing. Over flowing is a real possibility with this type of systemand you will need to keep all system parts clear of roots and debris, especially the over flow.



Water Farm hydroponic System Plan

The Water Farm is a popular, easy to build and inexpensive system. This is anAeroponic type system that uses the concept of air lift to push nutrient through a tubeto a ring at the top of the system. The ring has several small holes where nutrient dripsthrough and falls over the roots and finally drops back into the reservoir. This isprobably the easiest to build of all the active systems and one of the most reliable.Several systems can be operated by one air pump using splices. The only drawback of this system is the noise produced.

Building the system yourself can be accomplished within an hour or so, with minimaltools and material. The reservoir can be almost any water tight container that meetsthe following requirements. It must be of food grade material if you plan on consumingany part of the plant. It must be tall enough to hold about a foot of nutrient withenough space for the plant pot to be suspended above with about 6 inches of air space between the bottom of the pot and the top of the nutrient. 5 gallon food gradebuckets make great reservoirs as long as they are of a dark color. Standard whitebuckets do not work well because they expose your nutrient to too much light whichcan cause fungus and bacteria problems. The plant basket can be made from anycontainer with a rim by drilling lots of small holes. Even a small colander could beused.





















Operating the Water Farm

Simply fill the reservoir about half full or about 6 inches from the bottom of the plantpot. The air pump should run 24 hours a day especially if gravel is used as a medium.If other medium is used you might consider using a timer set to run for 10 or 15 minuteintervals. This can result in half the power usage although timers can fail which wouldresult in severe crop damage within a couple of hours. The system is relativelymaintenance free. Always make sure the air lift pump is functioning properly and thenutrient stays at least 6 inches full for proper lift.



How to build the Lettuce Raft System

The Lettuce Raft is another easy to build and affordable hydroponic system. It canusually be built in about an hour with minimal tools and easy to find parts. The RaftSystem is an aeroponic or aquaponic type system. A “raft” made out of Styrofoamserves as the plant site and floats directly on the nutrient solution. The roots areaerated by an aquarium air pump and diffusion stone. The system is reliable and prettymuch maintenance free and a great build for beginners or those who wish toexperiment with hydroponics. The main drawback of this type of system is clogging of the air diffusion stones with mineral build up. Another drawback is that only shortstature crops and plants, such as lettuce, can be grown in this system.

The parts are cheap and the reservoir can be any water tight food grade container.Totes and buckets make the best choice but virtually anything that holds water may beused. Some people use small fish tanks, which is fine as long as the glass sides arecovered or painted to block out light. Styrofoam flats can be purchased at mosthardware stores in the insulation section.















Operating your Lettuce Raft System

The Raft System is easy, just fill with proper nutrient and add your plants. The air pump must remain on 24 hours a day. The Raft will rise and fall with the level of nutrient so you can always tell when nutrient gets low. Just make sure your diffusionstone stays clean and replace when needed. If you plan on keeping this systemoutdoors you may want to keep it sheltered from rain and wind, due to the design of the system rain can easily flood your system. Wind can easily blow the raft over andout of the system.



How to build the Bubble System

The Bubble system is another easy to build, low cost, easy to operate system.Sometimes called the poor man's hydroponic system, this is an aeroponic/aquaponictype hydroponic system that uses an aquarium air pump and diffusion stone toproduce tiny bubbles that aerate the submerged roots. The system can be built inabout an hour and most parts are readily available and inexpensive. The best reservoir to use is a rubbermaid or sterilite food grade tote. The main problem with this systemis that the diffusion stone can quickly clog with mineral build up. Constant attentionand cleaning or replacement is required to insure proper aeration.











Operating your system

Fill the reservoir to an inch above the bottom of the plant baskets. It is important toalways maintain this level especially when plants have not yet developed roots longenough to reach the nutrient. The pump should remain on at all times. Keep an eye onthe air diffusion stone, mineral buildup can quickly cause clogging and drasticallyreduce aeration.



How to build an Aeroponic system

This system is a little bit tougher to build but a pretty cool and popular aeroponicsystem. This system is very successful in growing lots of different types of plants.Because it is an Aeroponic system the root system will be incredibly healthy andvigorous. Since the roots are suspended above the nutrient solution, if the pump shouldfail the roots will always have moisture and access to nutrient, making this a pretty failproof system. There are lots of different plans available but this one has been designedfor an easier build although it is not expandable.

The material for this system is easy to find. The pump recommended in this plan is themost affordable and was chosen because it has suction cup feet to hold the manifold inplace and a 1/2” threaded female outlet. If a pump is used that cannot support themanifold in this way then you will have to use another method. A system timer can beused to run the pump in 10 minute intervals to cut electricity usage in half.























How to Build an Easy Cloner System Plan

The Easy Cloner is an amazing method used for rooting cuttings. If operated correctlyrooting time can be cut drastically, in some cases up to 50%.

Building an Easy Cloner/Aero Cloner is pretty simple. One of the biggest problems ismaking a water tight seal for the lid and the power cord. There are several ways of obtaining a leak proof lid, Ive seen homemade cloners where the entire lid was sealedwith silicon and the top cut out, in place a plexi-glass piece was used. I just use foamgasket tape around the entire inside edge of the lid. It is advisable to use a systemtimer to run the pump in 10-15 minute intervals.































How to build a Nutrient Solution level Indicator

A nutrient solution level indicator can be easily added to almost any reservoir. A levelindicator makes checking the amount of nutrient in your reservoir a snap. It may alsobe used to drain the reservoir by rotating downward. Other types of level indicators canbe built out of a float attached to a stick that is visible through the top of the reservoir.



















How to build an Air Lift Pump

An air lift pump is relatively easy to build and an inexpensive option for a low budgetsystem. There are so many uses for this versatile device that the only limit is your ingenuity and imagination. The concept is simple and commonly used in aquariumunder gravel filtration systems. The idea is that the rising air bubble, when confined ina tube, will push liquid upward between the bubbles. The air lift is great for hydroponicsbecause not only does it supply oxygen, it also provides nutrient circulation. The maindrawback of this system is noise.











Documents

Guide to Hydroponic Gardening